I see some of the comments on here saying that gt40 heads won't make 400 hp this is why you have to take people's information and opinions with a grain of salt , good ported E7s even make over 400 hp if you know what your doing, our car the green gangster runs 10s on motor with a duel plane intake ported E7s and a off the shelf Anderson cam i don't understand why people have such a hard time making power with factory parts also it is a stock short block the car is on TH-cam the green gangster grover boys racing also with a 150 shot this car runs in the 9s and these are quarter mile times not eighth mile, thanks for sharing your video with us
@abodyal72 Yea, I had a 70 340 Duster w/ 727 8.75 w/ 3.23 posi and a 72 340 Demon with the same setup. Got rid of Both of them when I got a New Dodge Daytona Shelby Z w/ 5 speed. And then found a Dodge Omni GLHS Turbo. Had Both Turbo Card for Many years but they became Money Pits! They were Very Fast but Big $$ to keep alive. I'm 66 now and just want a Push rod motor I can Hot Rod without all the high maintenance. I will be following your progress on the Mustand too. It's near impossible to fund either of the Cars you have so I'm going to have to settle for, I think it's called an N95 Mustang so I can relive my Youth!
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but GT40P heads won't make 400hp on a 302 or even a 347 stroker, ESPECIALLY with a Ford alphabet cam. In stock form the heads only flow 196 cfm which means they're good for about 392 hp max. Big Dogs porting typically can get GT40P heads to flow around 232 cfm (good for 464 hp) with their stage 2 porting on those heads, but like others have mentioned, at that point with a rebuild on the GT40P heads (and a port job, if you choose that route) you'd of been better off purchasing some SVE 175cc aluminum heads from LMR for around $1,000 (those heads are good for a little over 500hp). NOT to mention the spark plug angle on the GT40P heads & the fact that no manufacturer makes headers for Those heads to fit in a late 60's mustang (or any other model from that era) I believe I could be wrong, only for Foxbody mustangs ('79-'93). So you Could end up spending money on rebuilding some GT40P heads & then realizing that the headers you have Won't bolt up to the heads cuz the spark plugs are touching the primary tubes of the headers & not letting them sit properly to make a good seal, or maybe the headers Do sit flush & make a good seal but you Can't get a spark plug wire on the spark plugs cuz of the angle they're just too close to primaries for the spark plug wire boots to fit on the spark plugs. I've had 302's with GT40P heads, 302's & 351w's with aluminum heads & it's just easier to buy any given manufacturers headers & have them work with the aluminum heads. I haven't tried putting those heads on an older vehicle (only Foxbodies) but so it's possible you won't have an issues with the headers but it's just something to think about.
@@69fasttimesgarage72 You're welcome. I just figured I'd share the info I have acquired upright l throughout the years from experience, to help avoid headache or heartache. Good luck with project.
I have a set of GT40Ps on a foxbody 302, inside my 1988 Ford Ranger. I think I may be putting down around 325hp at the crank, the heads are definitely my limiting factor. I used all 90° spark plug boots, they're necessary on half of the plugs. I have the Hedman swap headers, it's a midlength Foxbody header on the driver's side and a mid-length block hugger on the passenger side. The Foxbody header is the one that sucks, I had to use a Speedway 3/8" header flange as a spacer to move the header primaries far enough out to clear the spark plugs and boots, the Accel shorty spark plugs are like $20 each and only come in the stock heat range. Easy clearance with header fla mm ges as spacers, but changing plugs will require removing the headers. As for power: I have GT40P heads, Forged TRW piston foxbody 302 roller engine, block decked so pistons stick 0.15" above the deck at TDC( gives me 11:1 static compression), heads decked to lower the combustion chamber volume to 57cc, Cometic MLS 0.030"Headgaskets, Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6:1 ratio, Trick Flow vavle spring kit, Z303 Cam, Single-Plane Air-Gap intake manifold, BG Speed Demon carburetor (750 Douple Pumper), HEI Distributor, an electric water pump, and no accessories other than the alternator. It rips, but if I had anything to do over I would have spent a couple hundred dollars more on some aluminum heads instead of rebuilding the GT40Ps, I would be making 75 to 100hp more with some modest aluminum heads.
@@SpecialEDy Yeah, that's what I was talking about. The sight change in spark plug angle makes the GTP (aka GT40P) heads basically useless in any other vehicle besides the Explorer/Mountaineers they came in Or Foxbody cars... BUT But ....if you do have a Foxbody & you can pickup a set a GTP heads at the junkyard ($35 each so $70 for the pair) & only want to make 400 to 450hp then Big Dogs Porting (they have a TH-cam channel & Facebook page) does a "stage 2 " porting for like $350 I belive & would be a fairly reasonable option, but other Ford vehicles than the Foxbody platform would be better off using some aluminum heads for easy of installation & horse power potential per dollar. That sounds like a decent setup in your Ranger, my buddy always liked those square grilled Rangers for V8 swaps. I'm more partial to the '98 to '03 style cuz of the SLA front suspension instead of the I-beams up front. That GTP combo you put together should be at least 325hp at the crank, with that Z-303 cam & 11:1 cr I would think it's possibly closer to 340 or 350hp at the crank. But that's just my guess. 👍🏽
Cool! Done a couple of these. Some tips from past experience with the 302 and strokers. 1. A 347 would make a little more power, but if you want to wear the cyl less, go with a 331. 2. by the time you get done rebuilding those gt40 heads, you could be in an LMR SVE 175 head that will make more power than the gt40. Under a grand and ready for a hyd roller.. 3. Call Nick at clay smith cams. Get a cam recommendation from him. You wont be sorry when his cam runs circles around the 80's technology of that ford motorsports cam..They grind every cam for the customer anyway, so custom is the same price... Let me know if you have any questions and cant wait to see this thing rip! Thanks for sharing
opened my '74 up, found that my cam looked the same. Has some sharp edges on the sides of the lobes too. Also, you found that stainless clamp, I found a chunk of piston skirt just sitting on one of the main cap bolts haha. Previous owner said it ran 20 years ago. Who knows
I found a roll of black tape in the valley between the lifters in a 302 I’d put a 4 barrel intake on and I know it had been there at least 9 years and I was the one that knocked it in there by accident and looked all over the place trying to find but the last place I was looking for it. I sat the tape on the fresh air vent between the wipers right behind where the hood stopped when shut on a 79 Bronco and other than wiping the oil off good I still used the tape
Bro, I just put some AFR 185cc heads, Trick Flow Cam and a bunch of goodies on my 302. The only reason I spent that money was due to the fact it is an OE roller engine with forged pistons(1991 5.0HO). I will never spend $$$ on a flat tappet engine again. You can due a retro-fit roller cam kit or use "Dog Ear"/attached listers but your budget will, you know. You can also role the dice and go flat-tappet cam and hope it doesn't get wiped out in a year.
the Gt40P heads do flow well on the intake for a stock head - still not enough for a healthy 302. 400hp will be a chalenge, but for a budget build portwork, a 1.90 intake valve and the bowl work to match. as for compression, the L2488F30 has a 1.619 compression height and will help get the piston up to the deck or even a bit above. shave the heads down to 56cc ish, run a .039 gasket. the KB pistons I do not like, the top ring is too high up and makes the piston top fragile to heat & detonation. Wiseco, SRP both have good 2 valve relief forged pistons for not a ton of money. for a good cast piston, find some H120cp pistons. thinner ring pack, no dish, 2 valve reliefs, light. budget is relative, a hydraulic rollier conversion is great but the link bar lifters are spendy. for 400hp you will need a cam with 224 degrees duration @.050 or more, .500" -.550" lift and about 110 lobe separation. it will be lumpy. the intake is good, I have run them. an Eagle cast crank, Eagle I beam rod, Mahle forged piston stroker kit is listed for $1343 at CNC-motorsports. Mahle makes some very nice pistons so that will work well and give 10.5:1 easily if that's what you want. looking forward to it!
GT40P chambers are 60cc, those early 289/302 heads are 54cc or 53cc, GT40Ps flow better but reduce compression and have a different spark plug location that won't work with a lot of headers. The GT40 non P (3 bar vs. 4bar) heads have bigger valves and with minimal home porting will flow very well and they don't have spark plug problems. The 2v and 4v 289s used the same heads (except K-code) Ford raised the compression with different pistons 9.3 vs 10.0. This is a cool project, subbed and stoked.
Thank you, still piecing a puzzle together before I make the stab of buying parts up. Someone stated to deck the block, considering some options to bring up the conpression
Wow, good to know.. I’ve got a set of 289 heads on my bench, 160/190 valves, ported, polished, screw in studs,PR guides.. Picked them up YEARS ago from a guy that did head work for a local race team.
At some point someone may have replace a leaking intake manifold gasket and the heater hose clamp fell down in the block where the distributor was removed. Laying down in the sump or on top of the bondage tray not contacting moving parts it wouldnt do any harm. I've found oil pump drive shafts lying in oil pans before as well as lots of broken valve seals and timing gear pieces.
Not exactly sure how far you are with this but I suggest you check out David Vizard and Unity Motorsports about the heads and cam selection. Good luck with it.
Uhhhhh…. The GT40 head made its debut in 93 on the mustang cobra…. Later found on 97 and later Explorer and Mountaineer. It was also used on the 93-95 lightning. Almost as if was created for the mustang 4 yrs before it was used on an explorer. Weird right
The hose clamp in the oil pan wouldn’t hurt anything at all. It’s probably still trying to adjust to the light!😳 Oh, did you check the contact surface of the lifters? The cam lobes looked about like I’d expect for as many miles that are supposed to be on it.
Ford Explorers are the development platform for Mustang parts. GT40P heads are a good junkyard head upgrade, capable of 400HP. Chambers are a bit larger than those original heads, but you won't care about the slight loss of compression because they'll still make more power everywhere, apples to apples. Choose pistons wisely to get the compression you want while still allowing good valve clearance with the (rather big) cam you're going to need to hit 400HP. You mentioned KB pistons in other comments, below, which I am familiar with, but I suspect there are other (possibly better) choices out there for a combo like this. I don't build a lot of Ford small blocks. Hypers are fine for N/A combos (even the KBs with the top ring WAY up near the piston face), but if you're gonna tickle it with a little sauce, forget about them and go with (more expensive) forged slugs.
the cam lobes for flat tappets are not completely level, they need that angle on them so the lifters can rotate in their bores. the oil marks on the cam lobes are normal.
Pulled the original 318 out of my "Malaise" Valiant sedan; the plan was a cam, Edelbrock intake, Thermoquad, and 2.5" dual exhaust. It only had 88K & change and ran great, figured it would be 'easy-peasy.' Well, two cam bearing looked a little 'meh," and then when the crank came out- we found a bearing that had a couple scuffs. Now, I also have a '70 340 core short block so I robbed the crank out of it along with the windage tray, bought '68-spec higher-compression pistons and new I-beam rods. Heads? Since the compression was getting a bump, a pair of '90 '308' heads and a set of 25 year-old, but new & thermal coated, Flowtech headers (with Remflex gaskets & Stage 8 fasteners to keep the leak chances lower)...so watching this is cathartic in a way
Looks like it's going to be a nice engine. I would skip the junk yard GT40P heads and go with some AFR 165s or something similar. By the time you have rebuilt the GT40P heads with a valve job, springs, and surfacing a new pair of aluminum heads are not much more money and will perform much better. Remember if you go with 2.02 / 1.60 valve heads to get pistons that have bigger cut relives so that the valves will clear the pistons.
If you don't build a stroker, you might have trouble getting over 10:1 on a 302 without pop-up pistons or smaller chamber heads than the GT40p heads you are planning on using.
I was going to do the 347 but read into it and apparently it will warp the cylinders. I decided I'm going with 331 stroker kit since it apparently won't do that.
So far I have a edelbrock 500cfm 1403 carburetor edelbrock 289 intake hei distributor and stock 87-93 5.0 headers with dynomax super turbo mufflers on it
Time for a pair of AFR heads and a Vic Jr. Intake + a solid roller 😊. Just picked up 6 engines last week myself to add to my SBF collection, four 302s and two 351W's.
Specialty engines like 289 HiPo and Boss engines had VIN digits stamped on the block. Others are considered number matching if the casting date of the block precedes the production date of the car by at least a few days up to a couple of months. Car built in March…a January or February engine block is close enough.
The production date of the engine (not casting) should be hand stamped on the block on the drivers side right in front of the head (four numeric). 17:34 - that’s the casting date of the block and not necessarily when the engine was assembled. My 1973 302 did not have a windage tray.
If you want reliability and 400+HP then forget the 347 spend the money on TF 11r heads and a comp XE274hr cam. GT40P with a FMS cam is going to stretch to get to 400HP maybe make your goal 350HP? FMS cams are ok at best and not worth saving a few dollars on them look at XE266HR for that combo.
The more digging I did The 347 isn’t the best choice. Popular yes but not for my idea. The 331 would be better but still a tad radical But you have good taste in parts for a builder
Exactly! If you only want to make 400, you don’t need big inches. The 289/302 will make it at stock displacement. They have a pretty good rod ratio. What you need is RPM and head flow. Spend the money on balancing, and Anderson N91 cam, AFR heads and a single plane manifold and you’re there. The letter cam is not impressive (I run one in my Falcon) and the gt40 heads are not really impressive. You can make 400, but now with the combo you have in mind.
Every stock 302 will have bearing wear very similar to yours you can line them up and see how the crankshaft is flexing and or if it was a automatic or manual also I would be more worried about what the bases of the main caps look like where they meet the block and how tight there press is on the ears your looking for galling from detonation and or abuse and caps bouncing and walking causing said galling
Tore apart one 302 and seen worse. lol The rear oil galley transfer plug is full of gunk, also the low spots in the lifter valley as well, doesn't look that great to me...Seen better...lol Looks like carbon buildup on the top of the bores mostly, but for these engines, a small ridge is common after some miles.. Looks like it's been bored 0.020 over already...better hope there's room there to get another 10 or 20 thou, Thin wall bores on these blocks can't support much over that. Someone took a grinder to the intake ports in what looks like a lame attempt at port matching...A 2bbl intake? Remove the lifters before turning the block over. The head gaskets are fine, they don't match the holes in the block, in fact many head gaskets just have round holes at the rear of the block. The front water passages are supposed to be blocked. Vin on the stamping is for a 69, and it make sense since it doesn't have 68 or earlier rods in it. Thick balancer looks more like a truck motor to me?. Those heads don't have Thermactor ports, keepers man, they may be 2bbl heads, but there's really not much difference between the 2bbl and the 302 4bbl head for 68. IMHO, you can't go wrong with a set of the AFR enforcer heads, They will easily net you 400hp with a decent camshaft. GT40P heads have a different sparkplug angle and require matching headers. once you rebuild a set of GT40 heads at a decent machine shop, probably new guides, valves and a few seats and new headers, you're knocking on about the same door as a new set of superior budget heads from AFR.
@@69fasttimesgarage72 as someone who is currently battling my mistake of using gt40ps, use anything that's not gt40ps. Next 302 I build is gonna have a trick flow 11r 170 top end kit (for a cobra kit), hoping I can do a scat 327 stroker but if I gotta punch it out it'll be a 331. My truck has been just sitting, incomplete, primarily due to the gt40p heads I used. Honestly I should have just did the same work to a set of e7s or waited and found some 3 bar gt40s. I used to highly recommend gt40ps but that was before I ever actually messed with them. I no longer recommend them.
@@69fasttimesgarage72 He's Referring to the pink snapon that appeared to be a breaker bar however when you were breaking the head bolts loose you would hear the Click like a torque wrench. I heard it as well and was wondering the same thing.
@@dinopappas9769 yeah, that tool can trick some when you can’t get a good look at it. I love my breast cancer awareness snap on 1/2 inch drive ratchet. One of my go to favorites when needed. Got it on a scratch and dent sale off the tool truck.
If you’d like to donate for a dead blow or other types of hammers. Feel free to do so. Im sure I know more than most “men” out there at this point in time
Dang karen! What exactly is "that? The dirt or grease or maybe the 7oz. Of soluble degreaser? Where is he suppose to wash it? hes inside his garage! washing toward the inside! bathtub? lol.
Okay so you pulled the heads off didn't show the viewers the combustion chamber those could have been closed chambered nobody knows and then you didn't even pull a lifter out to see if it's a roller lifter or a flat tap it..wow, you're clearly a TH-cam mechanic
Never once have I stated I am a professional, just a hobbyist who still learns on a daily basis. I do know my way around an engine, sure I could have pulled my lifters and cam out but didn’t. And I’m not tearing into that deep until it goes to the machine shop to be sonic tested Thanks for watching though 👍
Are you BLIND you can surely see that it is not a roller by the block numbers and no dog bone hold down spider in the valley !!! Quit criticizing people
I see some of the comments on here saying that gt40 heads won't make 400 hp this is why you have to take people's information and opinions with a grain of salt , good ported E7s even make over 400 hp if you know what your doing, our car the green gangster runs 10s on motor with a duel plane intake ported E7s and a off the shelf Anderson cam i don't understand why people have such a hard time making power with factory parts also it is a stock short block the car is on TH-cam the green gangster grover boys racing also with a 150 shot this car runs in the 9s and these are quarter mile times not eighth mile, thanks for sharing your video with us
@@terrygrover6440 right on bro! 😎 that’s awesome
Gaskets are supposed to block the front ports if you put them on backwards it won’t cool the back half of the block!!
Finally an answer to this thought. To me they looked like they were the wrong gaskets.
Chevy guys always put the right side gasket backwards ...
Even though most gaskets are stamped FRONT...
YA, they're stupid.
Love that Dart out front! That's what I'm Looking for. Also have a 2000 Grand marquis I'm looking to Swap a 302/351w into.
Cool Video!
Thank you 🙏 and that would be a cool sleeper build
@abodyal72 Yea, I had a 70 340 Duster w/ 727 8.75 w/ 3.23 posi and a 72 340 Demon with the same setup. Got rid of Both of them when I got a New Dodge Daytona Shelby Z w/ 5 speed. And then found a Dodge Omni GLHS Turbo. Had Both Turbo Card for Many years but they became Money Pits! They were Very Fast but Big $$ to keep alive. I'm 66 now and just want a Push rod motor I can Hot Rod without all the high maintenance. I will be following your progress on the Mustand too. It's near impossible to fund either of the Cars you have so I'm going to have to settle for, I think it's called an N95 Mustang so I can relive my Youth!
For a high mile motor it looks pretty solid. Fun vid!
Could have been worse lol
And thank you! 🙏
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but GT40P heads won't make 400hp on a 302 or even a 347 stroker, ESPECIALLY with a Ford alphabet cam. In stock form the heads only flow 196 cfm which means they're good for about 392 hp max. Big Dogs porting typically can get GT40P heads to flow around 232 cfm (good for 464 hp) with their stage 2 porting on those heads, but like others have mentioned, at that point with a rebuild on the GT40P heads (and a port job, if you choose that route) you'd of been better off purchasing some SVE 175cc aluminum heads from LMR for around $1,000 (those heads are good for a little over 500hp). NOT to mention the spark plug angle on the GT40P heads & the fact that no manufacturer makes headers for Those heads to fit in a late 60's mustang (or any other model from that era) I believe I could be wrong, only for Foxbody mustangs ('79-'93). So you Could end up spending money on rebuilding some GT40P heads & then realizing that the headers you have Won't bolt up to the heads cuz the spark plugs are touching the primary tubes of the headers & not letting them sit properly to make a good seal, or maybe the headers Do sit flush & make a good seal but you Can't get a spark plug wire on the spark plugs cuz of the angle they're just too close to primaries for the spark plug wire boots to fit on the spark plugs. I've had 302's with GT40P heads, 302's & 351w's with aluminum heads & it's just easier to buy any given manufacturers headers & have them work with the aluminum heads. I haven't tried putting those heads on an older vehicle (only Foxbodies) but so it's possible you won't have an issues with the headers but it's just something to think about.
These are the comments I love! Thank you for this input as knowledge is power
@@69fasttimesgarage72 You're welcome. I just figured I'd share the info I have acquired upright l throughout the years from experience, to help avoid headache or heartache. Good luck with project.
I have a set of GT40Ps on a foxbody 302, inside my 1988 Ford Ranger. I think I may be putting down around 325hp at the crank, the heads are definitely my limiting factor.
I used all 90° spark plug boots, they're necessary on half of the plugs. I have the Hedman swap headers, it's a midlength Foxbody header on the driver's side and a mid-length block hugger on the passenger side. The Foxbody header is the one that sucks, I had to use a Speedway 3/8" header flange as a spacer to move the header primaries far enough out to clear the spark plugs and boots, the Accel shorty spark plugs are like $20 each and only come in the stock heat range. Easy clearance with header fla mm ges as spacers, but changing plugs will require removing the headers.
As for power: I have GT40P heads, Forged TRW piston foxbody 302 roller engine, block decked so pistons stick 0.15" above the deck at TDC( gives me 11:1 static compression), heads decked to lower the combustion chamber volume to 57cc, Cometic MLS 0.030"Headgaskets, Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6:1 ratio, Trick Flow vavle spring kit, Z303 Cam, Single-Plane Air-Gap intake manifold, BG Speed Demon carburetor (750 Douple Pumper), HEI Distributor, an electric water pump, and no accessories other than the alternator.
It rips, but if I had anything to do over I would have spent a couple hundred dollars more on some aluminum heads instead of rebuilding the GT40Ps, I would be making 75 to 100hp more with some modest aluminum heads.
@@SpecialEDy Yeah, that's what I was talking about. The sight change in spark plug angle makes the GTP (aka GT40P) heads basically useless in any other vehicle besides the Explorer/Mountaineers they came in Or Foxbody cars... BUT But ....if you do have a Foxbody & you can pickup a set a GTP heads at the junkyard ($35 each so $70 for the pair) & only want to make 400 to 450hp then Big Dogs Porting (they have a TH-cam channel & Facebook page) does a "stage 2 " porting for like $350 I belive & would be a fairly reasonable option, but other Ford vehicles than the Foxbody platform would be better off using some aluminum heads for easy of installation & horse power potential per dollar.
That sounds like a decent setup in your Ranger, my buddy always liked those square grilled Rangers for V8 swaps. I'm more partial to the '98 to '03 style cuz of the SLA front suspension instead of the I-beams up front. That GTP combo you put together should be at least 325hp at the crank, with that Z-303 cam & 11:1 cr I would think it's possibly closer to 340 or 350hp at the crank. But that's just my guess. 👍🏽
Cool! Done a couple of these. Some tips from past experience with the 302 and strokers. 1. A 347 would make a little more power, but if you want to wear the cyl less, go with a 331. 2. by the time you get done rebuilding those gt40 heads, you could be in an LMR SVE 175 head that will make more power than the gt40. Under a grand and ready for a hyd roller.. 3. Call Nick at clay smith cams. Get a cam recommendation from him. You wont be sorry when his cam runs circles around the 80's technology of that ford motorsports cam..They grind every cam for the customer anyway, so custom is the same price...
Let me know if you have any questions and cant wait to see this thing rip! Thanks for sharing
Thank you for that info
I own a 30 over 302 with milled and ported 289 heads. Not sure of the power but in a 2600 pound maverick it suprises a lot of people.
opened my '74 up, found that my cam looked the same. Has some sharp edges on the sides of the lobes too. Also, you found that stainless clamp, I found a chunk of piston skirt just sitting on one of the main cap bolts haha. Previous owner said it ran 20 years ago. Who knows
Wow! Piece of the piston just hanging out inside 😂 chillin
Right 😂
I found a roll of black tape in the valley between the lifters in a 302 I’d put a 4 barrel intake on and I know it had been there at least 9 years and I was the one that knocked it in there by accident and looked all over the place trying to find but the last place I was looking for it. I sat the tape on the fresh air vent between the wipers right behind where the hood stopped when shut on a 79 Bronco and other than wiping the oil off good I still used the tape
That’s wild!!
Bro, I just put some AFR 185cc heads, Trick Flow Cam and a bunch of goodies on my 302. The only reason I spent that money was due to the fact it is an OE roller engine with forged pistons(1991 5.0HO). I will never spend $$$ on a flat tappet engine again. You can due a retro-fit roller cam kit or use "Dog Ear"/attached listers but your budget will, you know. You can also role the dice and go flat-tappet cam and hope it doesn't get wiped out in a year.
Only way to run a flat tappet these days is to find an old core and lifters that were never used
the Gt40P heads do flow well on the intake for a stock head - still not enough for a healthy 302. 400hp will be a chalenge, but for a budget build portwork, a 1.90 intake valve and the bowl work to match. as for compression, the L2488F30 has a 1.619 compression height and will help get the piston up to the deck or even a bit above. shave the heads down to 56cc ish, run a .039 gasket.
the KB pistons I do not like, the top ring is too high up and makes the piston top fragile to heat & detonation. Wiseco, SRP both have good 2 valve relief forged pistons for not a ton of money. for a good cast piston, find some H120cp pistons. thinner ring pack, no dish, 2 valve reliefs, light.
budget is relative, a hydraulic rollier conversion is great but the link bar lifters are spendy.
for 400hp you will need a cam with 224 degrees duration @.050 or more, .500" -.550" lift and about 110 lobe separation. it will be lumpy. the intake is good, I have run them.
an Eagle cast crank, Eagle I beam rod, Mahle forged piston stroker kit is listed for $1343 at CNC-motorsports. Mahle makes some very nice pistons so that will work well and give 10.5:1 easily if that's what you want.
looking forward to it!
Thank you for the very detailed comment. I love comments like this.
GT40P chambers are 60cc, those early 289/302 heads are 54cc or 53cc, GT40Ps flow better but reduce compression and have a different spark plug location that won't work with a lot of headers. The GT40 non P (3 bar vs. 4bar) heads have bigger valves and with minimal home porting will flow very well and they don't have spark plug problems. The 2v and 4v 289s used the same heads (except K-code) Ford raised the compression with different pistons 9.3 vs 10.0. This is a cool project, subbed and stoked.
Thank you, still piecing a puzzle together before I make the stab of buying parts up. Someone stated to deck the block, considering some options to bring up the conpression
Wow, good to know.. I’ve got a set of 289 heads on my bench, 160/190 valves, ported, polished, screw in studs,PR guides..
Picked them up YEARS ago from a guy that did head work for a local race team.
My 73 302 had 58cc heads (stock).
Note; between 76 and 77, they switched from closed to open chamber heads.
At some point someone may have replace a leaking intake manifold gasket and the heater hose clamp fell down in the block where the distributor was removed. Laying down in the sump or on top of the bondage tray not contacting moving parts it wouldnt do any harm. I've found oil pump drive shafts lying in oil pans before as well as lots of broken valve seals and timing gear pieces.
@billkerstein1637
It was stuck to the bottom of a piston
Not exactly sure how far you are with this but I suggest you check out David Vizard and Unity Motorsports about the heads and cam selection. Good luck with it.
Uhhhhh…. The GT40 head made its debut in 93 on the mustang cobra…. Later found on 97 and later Explorer and Mountaineer. It was also used on the 93-95 lightning. Almost as if was created for the mustang 4 yrs before it was used on an explorer. Weird right
The hose clamp in the oil pan wouldn’t hurt anything at all. It’s probably still trying to adjust to the light!😳
Oh, did you check the contact surface of the lifters? The cam lobes looked about like I’d expect for as many miles that are supposed to be on it.
I’m sure it’s over 100k miles lol 😂 that main cap was screaming for help
Ford Explorers are the development platform for Mustang parts. GT40P heads are a good junkyard head upgrade, capable of 400HP. Chambers are a bit larger than those original heads, but you won't care about the slight loss of compression because they'll still make more power everywhere, apples to apples. Choose pistons wisely to get the compression you want while still allowing good valve clearance with the (rather big) cam you're going to need to hit 400HP. You mentioned KB pistons in other comments, below, which I am familiar with, but I suspect there are other (possibly better) choices out there for a combo like this. I don't build a lot of Ford small blocks. Hypers are fine for N/A combos (even the KBs with the top ring WAY up near the piston face), but if you're gonna tickle it with a little sauce, forget about them and go with (more expensive) forged slugs.
the cam lobes for flat tappets are not completely level, they need that angle on them so the lifters can rotate in their bores. the oil marks on the cam lobes are normal.
Pulled the original 318 out of my "Malaise" Valiant sedan; the plan was a cam, Edelbrock intake, Thermoquad, and 2.5" dual exhaust. It only had 88K & change and ran great, figured it would be 'easy-peasy.' Well, two cam bearing looked a little 'meh," and then when the crank came out- we found a bearing that had a couple scuffs. Now, I also have a '70 340 core short block so I robbed the crank out of it along with the windage tray, bought '68-spec higher-compression pistons and new I-beam rods. Heads? Since the compression was getting a bump, a pair of '90 '308' heads and a set of 25 year-old, but new & thermal coated, Flowtech headers (with Remflex gaskets & Stage 8 fasteners to keep the leak chances lower)...so watching this is cathartic in a way
Nice! I’ll be doing my 360 once I get all the parts together
@@imagoflyfishing9993 no torque wrench was used. Not sure what people are looking at? Hmmm 🧐
No clue...😅@69fasttimesgarage72
Okie- dokie@@imagoflyfishing9993
Houston We Have a Problem! , It's a MOPAR shop! Just a funny, I love Mopars too!
I got the big 3 at the house I love them all
Looks like it's going to be a nice engine. I would skip the junk yard GT40P heads and go with some AFR 165s or something similar. By the time you have rebuilt the GT40P heads with a valve job, springs, and surfacing a new pair of aluminum heads are not much more money and will perform much better. Remember if you go with 2.02 / 1.60 valve heads to get pistons that have bigger cut relives so that the valves will clear the pistons.
We will see, more than likely if I can score something local I’d go aluminum
That is a prize ring from a cracker jack box!!!😂😂😂
💯 % 😂
If you don't build a stroker, you might have trouble getting over 10:1 on a 302 without pop-up pistons or smaller chamber heads than the GT40p heads you are planning on using.
I was going to do the 347 but read into it and apparently it will warp the cylinders. I decided I'm going with 331 stroker kit since it apparently won't do that.
Reliability does drop with the 347
And I agree a 331 is more reliable over the 347
I have a 1968 ford 302 I put in my 71 f100 sport custom and it runs great
Solid engines no doubt! Looking for a set of 4V heads for this project, if I can’t find a decent set of GT40’s
So far I have a edelbrock 500cfm 1403 carburetor edelbrock 289 intake hei distributor and stock 87-93 5.0 headers with dynomax super turbo mufflers on it
Time for a pair of AFR heads and a Vic Jr. Intake + a solid roller 😊. Just picked up 6 engines last week myself to add to my SBF collection, four 302s and two 351W's.
Oh man, c8... 68 block. D..70's, e..80's.... Good ol ford
Thoughts on this in a 75 f150?
On fords as long as the motor is from the same year and same model as your car it's still considered numbers matching
Yeah no such thing as numbers matching in Ford land
Specialty engines like 289 HiPo and Boss engines had VIN digits stamped on the block. Others are considered number matching if the casting date of the block precedes the production date of the car by at least a few days up to a couple of months. Car built in March…a January or February engine block is close enough.
It’s a 68 block. But pretty interesting to see a windage tray.
You are second one to say that. This engine must have been messed with by the previous owners
@@69fasttimesgarage72 yeah someone has been in there. These suckers are getting old. Kinda rare to find an untouched one anymore.
The production date of the engine (not casting) should be hand stamped on the block on the drivers side right in front of the head (four numeric). 17:34 - that’s the casting date of the block and not necessarily when the engine was assembled. My 1973 302 did not have a windage tray.
I've never seen a factory stock sbf with a windage tray.
And I've seen 2-3 😳😳
If you want reliability and 400+HP then forget the 347 spend the money on TF 11r heads and a comp XE274hr cam. GT40P with a FMS cam is going to stretch to get to 400HP maybe make your goal 350HP? FMS cams are ok at best and not worth saving a few dollars on them look at XE266HR for that combo.
The more digging I did
The 347 isn’t the best choice. Popular yes but not for my idea. The 331 would be better but still a tad radical
But you have good taste in parts for a builder
Exactly! If you only want to make 400, you don’t need big inches. The 289/302 will make it at stock displacement. They have a pretty good rod ratio. What you need is RPM and head flow. Spend the money on balancing, and Anderson N91 cam, AFR heads and a single plane manifold and you’re there. The letter cam is not impressive (I run one in my Falcon) and the gt40 heads are not really impressive. You can make 400, but now with the combo you have in mind.
The block won't have a "VIN" number. It will have a date code and a maybe a few specific things identifying if it was a little unique.
If you kept those pistons and used 58cc chamber gt40 heads. What would the compression ratio be?
Every stock 302 will have bearing wear very similar to yours you can line them up and see how the crankshaft is flexing and or if it was a automatic or manual also I would be more worried about what the bases of the main caps look like where they meet the block and how tight there press is on the ears your looking for galling from detonation and or abuse and caps bouncing and walking causing said galling
Decode C = 60`s 8=1968 6015 -Part number for the block , A- next number is any revision. P.S. the windage tray was added much later not stock!!
What pistons are you choosing
Being the fact , I’ll have the block decked and I I want to bring up compression. I think KB has some good choices
Tore apart one 302 and seen worse. lol The rear oil galley transfer plug is full of gunk, also the low spots in the lifter valley as well, doesn't look that great to me...Seen better...lol Looks like carbon buildup on the top of the bores mostly, but for these engines, a small ridge is common after some miles.. Looks like it's been bored 0.020 over already...better hope there's room there to get another 10 or 20 thou, Thin wall bores on these blocks can't support much over that. Someone took a grinder to the intake ports in what looks like a lame attempt at port matching...A 2bbl intake? Remove the lifters before turning the block over. The head gaskets are fine, they don't match the holes in the block, in fact many head gaskets just have round holes at the rear of the block. The front water passages are supposed to be blocked. Vin on the stamping is for a 69, and it make sense since it doesn't have 68 or earlier rods in it. Thick balancer looks more like a truck motor to me?. Those heads don't have Thermactor ports, keepers man, they may be 2bbl heads, but there's really not much difference between the 2bbl and the 302 4bbl head for 68. IMHO, you can't go wrong with a set of the AFR enforcer heads, They will easily net you 400hp with a decent camshaft. GT40P heads have a different sparkplug angle and require matching headers. once you rebuild a set of GT40 heads at a decent machine shop, probably new guides, valves and a few seats and new headers, you're knocking on about the same door as a new set of superior budget heads from AFR.
I really do appreciate comments like this.
Thank you for watching
Do you need a distributor for that bad boy?? I think ive got a brand new msd style (maybe a summit brand) if you want me to donate to the project..
Thank you for your offer, I got some stuff in the works though
Hell yeah, im the 289th like . I'm going to unlike and wait and check back to see if I can be the 302 like
You have never taken an engine apart before have you !!!
Just a hobbyist doing fun things in the garage . But you must have built countless engines for Nelson racing engines or something 😂
I guess if you keep saying it.. you'll believe it.clean😂
It’s not near as bad as a 390 I once opened up for a project
I'm gona guess around 330hp.
Nah I’ll hit the mark, stroker kit makes it easy but reliability drops a bit for a long haul resto mod type build
@@69fasttimesgarage72 I hope you prove me wrong! With a 3.4" stroke, I'll guess around 370.
You won't believe what i found inside my crusty old 302!! Crusty old internal parts!!! WOW!!!
Very constructive criticism… you should watch the part of finding a 1/2 inch worm gear hose clamp chilling inside the engine
Just say gt40p or p heads. Leave the dash out. With that said. Im subscribed
What was the cost of the rebuild?
Have not gotten that far yet. I got an unexpected surprise that may need my attention first for my other car
11:40
Look at the gaskets.
Theres no holes in the front ends.
according to the code on the block it is a 1968
Do a 331 stroker it will last longer. 347 has to much of a angle on the rods.
That’s what most are saying which is fine.
Rod ratio is not any problem.
The real 347 problem is that the piston pin is in the ring lands.
Reliability issues. 🙄
That's not any problem.
The real 347 problem is that the piston pin is in the ring lands.
Reliability issues. 🙄
Please dont use your torque wrench as a strong arm to loosen bolts, its designed to tighten
Not sure why everyone thinks it’s a torque wrench? 🤨 when it’s the breast cancer awareness snap on 1/2 inch swivel head ratchet
I will say 345 hp but we shall see on this build.
Its a 1968 block man
I know, December 68 per the codes
a bunch of water
Oh yeah, even when you drain the block
There is always more
Just get a GT40P and your done
Now that I’ve been reading up on things about fitment issues for headers, may go towards AFR’s
@@69fasttimesgarage72 as someone who is currently battling my mistake of using gt40ps, use anything that's not gt40ps. Next 302 I build is gonna have a trick flow 11r 170 top end kit (for a cobra kit), hoping I can do a scat 327 stroker but if I gotta punch it out it'll be a 331. My truck has been just sitting, incomplete, primarily due to the gt40p heads I used. Honestly I should have just did the same work to a set of e7s or waited and found some 3 bar gt40s. I used to highly recommend gt40ps but that was before I ever actually messed with them. I no longer recommend them.
@69fasttimesgarage72
Nice to be rich
You used a torque wrenche as a pull handle?!!!
No torque wrenches were used , not sure what you saw
@@69fasttimesgarage72 He's Referring to the pink snapon that appeared to be a breaker bar however when you were breaking the head bolts loose you would hear the Click like a torque wrench. I heard it as well and was wondering the same thing.
@@dinopappas9769 yeah, that tool can trick some when you can’t get a good look at it. I love my breast cancer awareness snap on 1/2 inch drive ratchet. One of my go to favorites when needed. Got it on a scratch and dent sale off the tool truck.
I don't know why this keeps saying it's a clean motor..it disgusting in there
We could always bottle it up and send it to you so you can bathe your kids in it.
Yeah sure, I’d appreciate that
Building a engine to have less power than my stock 440?????
@@rexmasters1541 power to weight ratio in a mustang 400 ish is plenty for a 302
Clean? Do you know Anything about engines with your Claw Hammer, lol
If you’d like to donate for a dead blow or other types of hammers. Feel free to do so. Im sure I know more than most “men” out there at this point in time
@@69fasttimesgarage72
Building an engine and can't buy tools 👍👍
@@hotrodray6802 I buy tools as needed. once I need a tool, I go and buy one, but in this instance apparently people have to judge like you
1.2o minutes in. What a fog just washing that onto the street ! Into your environment ! What a divk !
Dang karen! What exactly is "that? The dirt or grease or maybe the 7oz. Of soluble degreaser? Where is he suppose to wash it? hes inside his garage! washing toward the inside! bathtub? lol.
The wife said no to the kitchen sink, can’t please them all lol 😂
You must be a democrat..oh the environment!!😅😅😅
Okay so you pulled the heads off didn't show the viewers the combustion chamber those could have been closed chambered nobody knows and then you didn't even pull a lifter out to see if it's a roller lifter or a flat tap it..wow, you're clearly a TH-cam mechanic
Never once have I stated I am a professional, just a hobbyist who still learns on a daily basis.
I do know my way around an engine, sure I could have pulled my lifters and cam out but didn’t. And I’m not tearing into that deep until it goes to the machine shop to be sonic tested
Thanks for watching though 👍
Are you BLIND you can surely see that it is not a roller by the block numbers and no dog bone hold down spider in the valley !!! Quit criticizing people
@@billdouglas6561 thank you, some just like to put others down. I’m no pro and never will claim to be one. Just a guy having fun sharing my adventures