Here's How A Speaker Baffle Could Destroy Your Speakers!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2020
- Here's How A Speaker Baffle Could Destroy Your Speakers!
Best Speaker Baffle. Boom Mat Speaker Baffle 050331. Watch to the end!!
In this video I install a set of Boom Mat speaker baffles (#050331) that are for a 6.5" speaker. These are the slim model measuring 3" deep. Unfortunately, although the install went well, the window does contact the back of the baffle when rolled down. This will eventually tear the back of the baffle and potentially allow water to enter and sit inside the baffle. So, while I was excited to install these and protect my component speakers, I think I'll have to modify them or completely remove them so they don't cause a problem down the road. The baffles themselves do seem like they'd do the intended job just fine as long as they fit without interruption.
The truck is a 1995 GMC Suburban K1500. This is the GMT400 platform commonly referred to as an OBS (Old Body Style).
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**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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Hello
I'm Japanese, I own a 1995 Chevy Van.
It is difficult to get parts in Japan.
But I really like this car.
I have already owned it for 20 years.
Your video will be very educational.
Thank you.
Bro you should add me on Facebook if you pay shipping I’ll help you get whatever
I didn't think it was possible to keep daily drivers in Japan that long dont you have to put in a new motor at 50k miles?
Maybe you should have mounted the baffle on top of the bracket and not under the bracket and made it work somehow that's how I'm going to do it in my Silverado
Microwave it for 15 seconds at a time until you get the depth you want.
In the car audio world we always run into these kind of problems and there’s always a solution a spacer but those baffles are awesome I’ve used them in several vehicles and it just brings all speakers to life.
I used these before and they kill bass response because you're basically placing them into an extremely small enclosure that will flex. Car door speakers are built as free air speakers which means they'll perform their best just mounted to the door. I used them for the same reasons you did but ended up cutting out the back and bottom to still allow for protection but also allow for the reverse waves to do their thing properly.
bigger hole needed is all. that cover is horribly designed, it should have a tube coming off the bottom to run your cables in without any water ingress risk. and allow free air movement.
but then im guessing they charge $20 a shot where clingfilm would do the whole job fine.
I did the exact same thing. They killed the low end so I cut half the bottom side off.
I big of a hole?
I just ordered the rubber
open-end ones, the recoil brand. Anyone ever get to compare the two types? I’ve never resorted to this but I’m only now using them bcs it’s a 30 yr old sports coup and the audio will be new so no chances.
I’d like these to “improve” sound so the speakers have a dryer environment but if it hurts the audio, then that’ll suck to have to choose sound over protection.
So tell us, how is a speaker baffle going to destroy your speakers? After all that is the header on your post … …
Because most door speakers are made to be run infinite baffle no enclosure this will kill the low end bad
He is stating at the end of the video that because the baffle doesn't clear the window when rolled down, over time the window can wear a hole into the baffle causing water to get inside and possibly sit in the baffle. I do not think it will be of much concern unless you roll your windows up and down repeatedly like every day or something lol. But yes, that is his concern.
@@MurderousMindstate I get the slim-line depth baffles, no problems here :P
I also prefer XTC, not Boomat.
@@MurderousMindstate so its not the baffle that causes speaker failure but the hole in the baffle that might ruin the speaker
I'm literally doing this tomorrow I'm literally always use these speaker baffles but I've never used them on a pickup like this before. Thank you for posting this video
Just cut them to be a rain baffle. Leave them, but just cut the bottom area from the door skin to the back of the baffle like a 1/4 slice of pie. Any water intrusion in the door will drip off the top of the baffle where it covers the speaker. It also will allow the speaker to still act as an infinite baffle as it was designed.
This vid made me so happy!!! I honestly feel like this stuff only happens to ME and I thank you for keeping it real for us and showing that this kinda thing happens to everyone. You could've just left that part out, but ya didn't -- for that, I say "THANK YA". 😉 👍👍 😎
BEST COMMENT ON TH-cam OF 2022 💙
Been self teaching my self how to hook my car up through TH-cam vids and its been going very well. I’ll be using this vid by the end of the week, thanks 🙌🏾
They are worth it. Just use the plate first then foam
or you could just potentially buy a 6-in speaker cover.?.?.
The round speaker box is so small that it almost sounds as if the back of the speaker is clogged.
with such a small box you will not get good sound!
@@ford1546 you can also cut a hole on the bottom of the baffle to help with the sound and still protect the speaker from the elements.
@@mart182003 yes you can but then it will be the same as the plastic that is commonly used to protect the speaker.
Take a foam cup and put a speaker inside and you get a thin sound with little bass !! so small boxes are commonly used for midrange in a hifi speaker.
JOHN KUSHER.
you do not know what you are talking about
you should use the plastic that is commonly used to protect the speaker. which the factory uses
Take a foam cup and put a speaker inside and you get a thin sound with little bass !! so small boxes are commonly used for midrange in a hifi speaker
Hey Jimmy, Just Zip tie around the circumference of the baffle. It should draw it in a bit.
Oh man! That is so frustrating when you do a project and realize there is an issue once you are completely finished. I did the same thing on my 2011 Silverado door speakers, but fortunately I did not have the clearance issues.
I feel your pain just finished replacing the speakers in my doors yesterday just to come across this video today
Used them on my S550 Mustang for all my speakers with no clearance issues . Made a big difference in the sound, for the better.
Jimmy, not sure what you did or have done yet but, a buddy of mine did the exact same thing. One side he moved out in front of the ring and the other he just cut off the back part that rubs. His logic was "Have the people say they are crap anyway so we'll see which one works" Haven't heard the results... Thanks for sharing.
The baffles are a bit stretchy. Just "stretch" it a little tighter on the sides. Makes the depth a bit shallower but should clear the window. I had the same issues lol
I just ordered silicone speaker baffles along with speaker baffle protective covers for my car too. I am skeptical about installing it into my car. I want to protect my speakers from getting wet and rusty again. Have a great day!
The depth of the foam baffles is a very easy fix. Shorten the depth of the baffle yourself! There are many ways to achieve this thus far I've done: electrical tape around the outside to crush the foam, duct tape around the outside to crush the foam, cut and reglue the foam, and heated the foam sides to shorten them.
Always ensure 100% fitment before resealing the panel!
That's why I get the "slim-line" variety. Unless it's behind a panel with no window regulator. Like the back seat speakers in a 2-door.
I used them for my infinity kappas been working 4 years now . Sounds good
Completely understand how you feel when something doesn't go the right way LOL why did we even start. Anyhow thanks for the video great help
Wow, I was waiting to see the part where you checked if there was room when the window is down! However, you could modify them to reduce their depth. Also, I'm not keen on a sealed cover baffle since it upsets the acoustic tuning (it adds both mass and stiffness). I would be inclined to cut the bottoms out up to 3 and 9-oclock and leave the entire back on. (Or perhaps cut two large windows between 3 & 9.)
Thats smart. That way if some water or condensation did somehow make it into the enclosure it could get out, but I would be weary to put the holes anywhere near where drops would collect, probably a round hole at the bottom would be enough, for the wires, like he did..BUT LIKE 5 TIMES BIGGER
This is why you always check for depth clearance when you roll your window down before you button everything up and install the door panel back on. This would save you a lot of time and headaches when you catch this mistake early.
Reverse your foam with that little plate that you added and it’ll move the foam further away from the window and you’ll still have everything the same
That could work unless the foam actually touches the back of the speaker, not the design intent.
I might try that first.
I know for a fact I just explain that wrong and I’m sorry
1ROAD Even though in the beginning you showed that the foam was too big for the plate just force it in there a little bit it will only be snug around the edge of the plate/adapter. That should shorten the length between your window and baffle. But the speaker will still fit inside it just puts the foam tight around the speaker basket! I have the same exact set up.
Yes, it may seem like a tight fit but that is ok. It will still be just as effective.
I bought a set from Autozone. They are great in my 2001 Dodge Ram!
Is there a sound difference between the boom mat and the open door with kill mat? Which sounds better. I am wondering about the boom mat for my 6x9 door speakers but wondering if it will limit their sound output vs the open matted door enclosure.
The Seven minute mark and your reaction is funny! Sorry to laugh at your expense, but it was relatable, ...and funny! :)
During the original install of the speakers, you traced back to find the split for the woofer and tweeter, since there was no original cross over, was that necessary or could you just use either pair of the original wires to feed the new cross over?? (Am I making sense?).
I bought these baffles from Crutchfield with 4, 6-1/2” Kicker speakers for my 13 Silverado but after seeing some videos and reviews I’m not going to use the baffles instead I’m going to use Stinker Roadkill rings after seeing them installed. I’ll probably use sound barrier wherever I can, get it on the inside of the door if possible. Back to the Boom Mat baffles it showed the depth of 3-1/4” and there was another brand that were 3” in depth. The only feature I did like is the baffles would keep the speakers dry in wet conditions.
I use these all the time and love them.. no problem and they push the sound into the car as Appleseed to it escaping in the door
In my 97 Chevy Silverado I had door speakers installed. Didn’t like them , went back and got new ones. The speakers were all wet. I instantly wanted a product like this. Needed in the older GM,s.
🤣! I fell for that crap! But what i did was cut a hole on the back side so the sound could travel. The rest of the cup will protect the speaker.
Add 1/2 inch spacer. Mount spacer to door frame, then boom Matt baffle followed by speaker
do these baffles really improve sound quality? what is the required enclosure volume for a 6.5' speaker? I have considered just using a Dollar Store plastic container behind speakers. No one sees them and they would do the same.
Esperando actualización y opinion sobre el improvement of the sound with boom mat.
Some commenters say you could mess up your regulators, but TBH they are the easiest regulators to replace in any car ever. I don't know if you pulled he glass to install your sound mat, but it would have only been an extra ten minutes max. I found this out when I installed new outer handles, it's definitely worth the effort and fewer scrapes on the back of your hands and wrists. Anyway, I doubt the foam is going to overpower the window motors.
How do they effect the sound? Thanks 👍
You did all that work and now your done. Good job dont worry about it
The first one I installed made the speaker sound distorted. Without them, sounded normal. Wasted money.
@@MrBritrider I was also thinking of getting some myself but don't feel the need. Maybe for the rear speakers that have so much space behind them.
Dynamat (or similar) covering all the holes on the 'inside' door skin, and fast rings make far more difference than speaker upgrades. Put a speaker in an enclosure that's too small will raise 'Q' and produce a large hump at resonance. With a circular enclosure, you will also have problems with refections hitting the cone at exactly the same frequency, causing large frequency response irregularities.
i ran into same issue when i was swapping out the stock 4x6 door speakers in my '82 Buick Riviera for some 3 ways. first it wasnt fitting inside it properly due to magnets size so than tried it without it & it was able to fit but didnt sound good at all & didnt quite sit well with us either so then i had to wait a few days on the stereo shop to get me a cpl tht were a perfect fit for both speaker magnet & window clearance except for now the tweeter wasnt letting the door panel get put back on due to the grill was in the way now so after a long time messing around with it we ended up jst exchanging the speakers for another 3way pair which actually were much btr since they were able to fit snuggly within the original door cups & we was able to reassemble both door panels with no problem & also they had btr power handling & sounded much better than the other set i was going with. lol :/
I think I a just gonna buy that water proof boot spray that's like scotch guard and spray my door speakers with it lol
Anthonyj350 has great videos on these. You really want the speaker to move air and take advantage of the whole door. He cuts them in half and only uses the top part as a cover leaving the bottom side ope to allow drainage and moisture evaporation.
Yep! Thats what i did.
You and I are the same I install something out of excitement and forget to see if it will have issues and when you find an issue you don’t want to leave it alone cause it will haunt you forever. It’s hard being a perfectionist lol.
Good effort, you also made me smilel😃
I'm building a DIY bluetooth speaker and I'm using a 1.5ohm sony passive sub and I am using the enclosure and I put a 8ohm speaker in it and a tweeter I'm wanting to put a full range speaker in it and I waa wondering if this would work with keeping the pressure off of the 3.5" full range speaker
Random question but would be greatly appreciated does any body know what size/ thread and length of the bolt that holds the tailgate cable to the tailgate because pick ups are differant from blazers and suburban tailgates
Had the exact issue with my 1999 K-1500 Suburban when I replaced the speakers. Just reinstalled the mats on top of the speaker trim ring and cut off the extra material.
I used these foam speaker baffles in my 2013 Chevy pickup when I updated the speakers. These chevy's are known too leak water on the OEM speakers from the factory when moisture is present . Of course that's what they claimed.
i don't have this issue on my nnbs but it rarely rains and it's been months since i washed it due to the fires ( it just turns back to gray after a day or two)
Jimmy, I kinda cheated and used the ones my suburban already had in it, however, I made custom adapters to bring out the speaker about 1" which helps alot for window clearance. Love your channel brother. God Bless.
If it misses by a fraction of an inch, it misses by a mile. An inch seems excessive.
@@x-man5056 I used cabinet birch wood to make the custom adapters. I believe they're 3/8". They worked perfect for the audio setup I did.
@@OzarkGuysFishing 3/8" inch sounds more appropriate. Good call. From what I could tell, Jimmy only needs about an 1/8" - 3/16" A few washers will do it for him but your fix sounds professional grade.
@@x-man5056 I was a bit of a chore to make them, but they work for what I needed. My sound system is all new, and I'm in the process of adding a sub. Once finished, the overall process will be beneficial for my needs. My goal is to have my system sounding like a concert hall. I used coaxials all way around. Custom brackets in the rear deck to adapt 6x9's and eventually will do 6.5" rounds in kicks, where my 4" rounds are now.
@@OzarkGuysFishing Yes, something like that would take a scroll saw or at least a very deft hand on a jig saw. I'm not sure that's in Jimmy's skill set yet.
I hope your great sounding audio system doesn't make you loose hearing by the time your 50. I was unkind to my ears when I was young, worked on fighter jets and loved loud rock n roll. Not wanting to preach to you, that's your Mom's job, LoL. Just want you to think about it as you are Jamm'n your tunes. Tinnitus and hearing loss ain't no fun. If you like to fish in the Ozarks or about anywhere in the wild, you'll want to be able to hear animals creeping around behind you. Bears love fish. Jus say'n
These fit fine in a 2004 Tahoe. 1995 has a thinner door. You also might want to consider cutting a square hole in the bottom of the so that it doesn't completely kill what little bass these speakers put out.
So you have to cut a little small holes bottom you saying??
@@myroom1052 cut a small hole in the bottom so if water gets in your door it doesn't touch the speaker, but also allows the speaker face to breathe (move back and forth). If there's no hole, there's no where for the air to move, and it dampens the speaker (makes it a lot quieter).
Use boom mats in all my car speakers. Provides a noticeable sound difference especially with bass. Basically allows the speakers to float to a degree so it’s not transferring vibration to the doors as much
it is good to know it can improve the bass, will try it :)
That’s not how it works….
Speaker baffles basically create an enclosure. This mitigates cancellation between the sound coming off the back of the cone and the front.
@Jeff Pelletier that's what Dynamats are for, right? Deadening panel distortion?
I just returned my set!
4 Runner's have 6x9's in the front doors along with needing a special trim ring to mount them.
If I had the stock speakers in the boom mat's would make them sound better, but... I'm using Infinity components and they have more excursion and great bass!
Good thing I did a sound test before installing the other side, it totally killed my mid bass!
The infinity's use the whole door as a bass box!
Do yourself a favor...
Go to Home Depot and get a roll of the aluminum backed roof patch, stick to Inside of door and it will kill road noise and increase the sound of you speaker inside the cabin!!!
After 20 plus years in audionthis statement is wrong on multiple levels. First with regards to tour roofing tape that would worsen his sound deading. He already had kilmat which is 80mil thick it is also a butyl rubber based not asphalt like roofing tape. Roofing tape may seal seams and leaks but the ashpalt compisition does nothing for sound deadening. Also apshalt roofikg tape unlike the butyl rubber is sensitive to heat and can melt as it gets hotter like summers here in Ga. Speaker baffles do not kill base. It isolates the acustic sound coming from the rear of the speaker stoping it. From being heard. The baffle like a sealed enclosure give the suspension better cone control and a nore accurate basss note. What your refering to is sub bass which should not be played thrub mid range speaker. And as i also have kappa infinity 6x9s with cross over and seperate tweeters i can tell you that the sound quaility of the kappas is greatly improved with the baffle rather then without.
At first glance my immediate thoughts was to glue a piece of fabric to the back, like speaker box carpet so it slides easily and it’ll hold the least amount of water/condensation. What did you ultimately do?
I used plastic bowls for my 6.5s but I was wondering if they need more air space
Maybe put some shims or washers under the baffle before you screw it down so it will clear the window?
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
Thanks bro.
@1ROAD would turning the baffle inside out work as it should pull the inside cone tighter to its self if ya know what I mean...
Cut out the bottom half, it's supposed to be trimmed to act as a top drip deflector, basically a half circle/ half moon cutout on lower half! For a better understanding, five star car audio has a video explaining why!
Which video?
Any more than 20watts rms and a small baffle will kill the lows. It causes more cancellation. The only thing you want to add behind the speaker is acoustic foam, which should be on the panel. You should seal all the holes you can on the inner panel with hushmat or some other sound deadening except for the speaker hole.
Man, I was way off on guessing the video title. lol
-Chuck
The worry is real. I got my dad's truck years ago (2001 Silverado) and noticed that the speakers were blown. I was gonna replace them anyway, but what I found was the dust and dirt and whatever bit of moister got into the door had literally fused one of the coils inside the magnet. The other wasn't as bad, but it still sounded like crap. Some GM engineer sitting there saying "speakers work find in the elements, right?".
Same thing happened with my K1500. Same product too. I just left it because I almost never roll down my windows and I’ll fix it the next time I need to pull my door panels off
Just my two cents, but it’s good to post a video showing products, however a large majority of Colorado tends to require some sort of customizing, whether it be the way that you mount the speakers or adding these phone baffles. One big thing as I mentioned to another person on here is that unless I missed it at no time did you want Stop to check and see if they were going to be any clearance issues between the speakers with the baffles in the window and it’s down position. If you did and I apologize however I don’t recall seeing it.
It’s kind of like building a stroker engine and then trying to start it to see if you have any rod to block clearance issues lol.
Use some Stinger fast rings or NVX silicone baffles and cut to size. Those ones you have are known to trap moisture in them.
Thanks, I'll look those up.
Did you buy that plate aftermarket or did it come on the truck
if you were worried about the foam letting water in, you could have coated them. flex seal, rubber undercoating or something come to mind.. i would just use it like it is, contact or not just don't roll then down as far. if the ac is good, then you'll be fine. not wrong to worry though. my truck, 06 gmc, i had bad connections and one had the contacts rotted off a set of pioneers. let me clarify, the board that held the terminals on the speaker was in 2 pieces and wires dangling. i'll not do component speakers mainly because i'll need an amp but i'll also have them exposed like that. those enclosures are supposed to add to sound quality more than protect them i think. never used them though so i wouldn't really know. another thought still use the baffles but make a spacer just thick enough to shim it out. plywood would be fine for this i would think it comes in the thickness you'd likely. they also sell adapter plates cheap on line that you could modify if they are thick enough but i doubt it. i fit 6x9s and 6.5s in my ranger this way just using a jig saw and a drill and plywood. factory was 4x6s in both but the kit i had was a left over chistmas pioneer kit clearanced out at wally world. don't get me going on the quality of said kit though. 1 set of speakers left only out that kit with a year or so if daily use..
They going to make your speaker sound like ass because it’s sealed. Cut a little opening so the speaker work properly
🤦♂️
I installed these on my '02 Avalanche and had a horrible experience with them.
The sound from my expensive component speakers were muffled. It drove me nuts. I replaced the speakers thinking it was a bad set. Still sounded muffled. Then I removed the second set and installed the factory speakers. They sounded muffled. That's when I figured out it was the baffles. I put the 1st aftermarket set back in with no baffles and they were awesome.
No baffles for me. I was also excited to keep the speakers protected. But these are not the way to do it. Plus I realized that if the cheapo factory paper speakers can withstand the small amount of water coming through the window seal, then the expensive speaker can withstand it.
Yes correct. Far too small box! Make holes at the bottom!
I bet it's possible to design and 3D print a custom speaker 'splash guard' that deflects any water falling down on it around the speaker, has a big opening in the bottom to not make the speaker sound like crap, and is shallow enough to not interfere with the window.
My oem American Motors speakers only had 3 holes at the bottom of the speaker basket. So I recommend 3d print a plastic guard for 3/4 of the speaker basket. Fully enclosing this speaker will drop the bass responce massively.
So why don't you just put the baffle in after the mounting bracket for the speaker? It looks like the window is coming in to contact with the baffle by less than a 1/4". Putting the baffle in after the bracket instead of vise versa might give you the needed clearance. Use felt tape on the bracket mating surface with the door panel if your worried about rattling.
How is the sound?
Just shorten the foam baffle length with a sharp craft knife (cut a thin section out) and glue the foam back together with contact cement. I like the baffle idea, not just for protecting the speaker from the elements, but it will probably produce way better sound than using the entire door as an acoustic device. I'd cut some flaps / sections out at the bottom to allow it to vent compression however.
Great ideas, Thanks!
Hahahaha OMG i just saw this video and i have the EXACT same problem. And i literally am the same type of person just like you i cant stand the fact that i know it will rub 😂😂
So the best way I found was as follows. Fold the foam inside out. Put speaker on the foam. Fold it over the speaker. Cut the bottom out of it to allow air for your bass. Screw it in. Then I personally put caulking around the out side of the foam for tighter seal. The glass may rub a little but your not hitting it. Make sure you cut the speaker wire hole on the back side instead
So, it's bad for the foam baffle to contact the glass on the way up and down, but it's ok for the rubber weather seal to squeegie the window as it goes up and down.... I'm confused.
I kinda skipped through this video but if there's one thing I learned, it's to roll the window down before buttoning everything up to make sure everything has clearance.
That slim baffle boom mat had the same problem with my van
“I’m the type of person that just can’t leave things alone” lol, welcome to the club! You know it will drive you up the wall thinking about this. Is it possible to cut 1/4” of the foam and reduce the depth then use an adhesive spray/silicone to reattach? I don’t know how much clearance is available.....
Update: I just read/noticed “Daddyoh” made the same suggestion. In any event, Let us know if you try our method.
I feel you pain lol, for I did it before 🤦🏽♂️
3:52 what not to say to your proctologist 🤣🤣🤣
They are worth it just put the baffle in between the bracket and speaker. That should help u with ur clearance issue
Sounds like fashioning a 1/4 to 1/2 inch spacer is in your future. A lil extra work, but it'll eliminate all doubt.
Well how does it sound with baffles?
Mine sounded muffled with baffles. I removed them.
You can put some spaces in between that or small wood piece
Man what a bummer. 😔 They're definitely worth it though. If you're going to fix the depth in the future, definitely get a set of foam rings. It gets sandwiched between the speaker and the door panel, sealing off, and isolating the sound so it projects into the car better. Gives you a really good sound improvement. Especially in the midbass frequencies.
Esos arreglos sencillos con la pieza que trae los Malibú una pieza que retira la bocina de la puerta ya está eso es todo para que los imanes no pegue le pones eso y las piezas de retirar la bocina para que los imanes no peguen ya está
Hi, i would like to know if them give a sound benefit or not
Lol thats like asking if a speaker is better out of a box vs in a box
HI
DID YOU FIGURE THE SOLUTION FOR THE BAFFLE?
Try the adapter first then the baffle over it. I know it's not necessarily the ideal way because you initially installed it perfect like a pro in my opinion but it might give you just that little bit of extra clearance you need my friend. Not ideal but if it works.. 🤞 LIKED & SUBBED!
I got an idea for you once you go to the hardware store and get those little wooden shims and shim the the plastic bracket piece outwards right along with the shims to put the shims right behind the little baffle piece then it might clear just trying to give you some good ideas hope you can figure it out
Just cut the baffle about the length of your speaker. In most ford's with the premium sound system they leave the back open on their stock baffles. On an old lincoln I did audio upgrades on, the factory 30 year old speaker girdles didn't have rust on em.
a simple solution is to have the baffle ahead of the spacer that way the added thickness of the spacer gives the clearance needed. it's just a slight issue
Hole at the bottom for speaker wire I would think the water if it hits it it’s going to run down the sides and collect at the very bottom point. I personally would put it on top with a dab of black etc to seal the wired but really if it’s that much of a concern when it rains just order new window seal and new window wipers inside and out
How did the baffle ruin your speakers like the video title states?
I ordered these for my Yukon and didn't install them for the same issues. They're crap IMO
Also a good idea for tail lights in metal.
jewllake below has the RIGHT IDEA - " You really want the speaker to move air and take advantage of the whole door ". -- Without the door volume of airspace the speaker drivers will not sound as good as they were meant to...... jewllake's idea was to cut them in half and only uses the top part as a cover leaving the bottom side open to allow drainage and moisture evaporation, -- I would also cut a half circle out of the remaining back plate leaving about a half inch of the diameter of the back plate to give some extra support to the top half of the cover but not blocking to much of the sound coming out of the back of the speaker driver.
7
"Slime" refers to depth, not diameter. Just install it on top of the mounting ring. If there is a fitment issue in terms of diameter, you could take material off the inside of the ring.
Take whole thing back out, get a thin foam ring, attach that first, then the baffle and then speaker adapter. It just needs to come out a few millimeters
You didn't seem to show how much of the bottom of your window wanted to slide behind the foam baffle, unless that little bit you showed WAS the max with window all the way down. Here's my thought: There should be some extra glass below the door trim when window is 100% up position right? So, you have a "margin of error" to use at where the glass contacts the baffle. What if you used some non-petroleum or silicone grease to lube the backside of the baffle to ease the friction vs the glass? I know your first reaction. The grease will attract dirt, and yes, of course it will. But every time I have looked into my door spaces the dirt factor is normally very low. The space is pretty well defended from routine dust/dirt, and there is not much ventilation that infiltrates it. If it were myself, I would lube it to reduce the drag on the window motor fuggitaboudit, even if there were more intrusion by the baffle. So long as the glass was not trying to push the foam thing down (after greased), that's would be my solution . . .
Just put 1/4" spacer behind the mount if it will not hit the door cover in front of speaker. Use 1/4" longer screws to mount back.
Hand held screwdriver? Guys at 5 Star say 1/32 is the only thickness that won't tweet your acrylic ring. Pull the wires through before you fill the hole.
Funny thing i had one made out of hard plastic the best ones are in older toyota cars they have tuned boxs made for their vehicles
Installed those baffles along with brand new t series fosgate 61/2 inch speakers in my 05 chevy truck. Couple months later passenger side window motor went out, driver side regulator went out and both speakers stopped working at the same time. Coincidence ? Highly doubt it. I promise you they don't add mid bass nor do they protect the speaker in any way. Probably why there so inexpensive
I tried these on a 2000 ranger with some upgraded high end aftermarket component 6.5's and they took all of the bass out. I only did one side to compare the difference and they sucked all of the midbass out of that speaker. I would definitely not recommend using these unless you are having a water intrusion issue and then i would cut the bottom out so they are not enclosed.
just my 2 cents from real world test.
Was the sound quality any better
You ALWAYS gotta worry about Clarence and Claire they always get in the way!!