You go to extra lengths on your builds and I know that you aren’t the only one doing this, but you are the only one who is doing it to this level on this medium and we who are watching know how much you care about your work quality. That matters!
A little advise for your body work.When the bonding has dried enough to sand. Before sanding,wipe bondo with lacquer thinner on a rag to remove the film of goo on bond before sanding so sand paper doesn't clog up.That will help you save more sand paper and it will actually sand So much better.Ive restore cars for 30 years so its tricks like that,that has helped me alot.Im very much OCD like your self.Good luck and I love to all your videos.Great work. God bless..
Its odd that many body men do not do this themselves. But it definitely will save you on sand paper for sure and that stuff is getting up there in price!
Mark, I've used headliner material like this in past builds also. One trick my upholstery buddy, that I get my materials from, showed me was to spray rubbing alcohol on the material and the foam backing will release very easily. The alcohol will evaporate quickly and you're left with a perfectly clean finish material to work with. I know it's not much, but I've picked up plenty of tips, tricks, and advice from your videos so I wanted to give back a little. Keep up the great work man!
ah good suggestion, wish i saw this earlier. I ended up soaking mine in very hot water and then it peeled off OK, but still left some very small specs of black foam attached. certainly didnt separate as easily as shown in the video. The headliner i bought was made by Sunbrite from amazon
Those A pillars look sharp! I’ve done dozens of them and Mark looks very confident doing them, which always provides for excellent results. I got into car audio in the 80’s (dual 10” subs in 1986!) and learned some hard lessons from installers who didn’t have the same degree of confidence.
I once had a ford transit woofer speaker and a tiny speaker out of a toy and wired it in parallel with the ford speaker and had them wired directly to a headphone jack, plugged it into my mums iPad and they both worked at quite a decent volume and sounded really good, there was a small capacitor in series with the small speaker I used as a tweeter
You’ve asked in the past for ideas of things we would like to see. I recently created A-pillar pods modeled after the ones you made your dad. I used the unfinished version of them for months before I finished them, but when I finished, to my surprise, the sound got much, much better. Anyway, that got me thinking it would be nice to see you do an example of how aiming the speakers can affect the sound using and RTA, and maybe an example of how finishing them affects the sound as well. I really wasn’t expecting much change as they have two+ layers of fiberglass on top of the fleece, so I figured that was enough density, but adding different fillers really helped.
Always happy when you drop a new vid. Your attention to detail amazes a hobbiest like me. Have learned alot from you. Thanks for all the tutorials you do. Keep the vids coming.
Glowforge isn’t the MOST used tool in my shop but it’s been the most helpful. What used to take a day takes a couple hours and you don’t even get dirty. Lol 👍🏻
My grandfather once told me that every skill you learn is like having a job that pays forever. I’m 40 years old now and man he was right. I used to fix boats with fiberglass, cars with bondo and other resins. When I hit a metal block with my Aventador SV I made a whole new front spoiler out of carbon fiber. And now I’m getting into car audio as a hobby and sure enough, here’s resin work. You could also use carbon fiber cloth to cover that whole piece. I would recommend using an AB resin that’s UV resistant though vs fiber glass resin. Then heat gun it to remove bubbles and make it look real nice. Btw I purchased the 5 channel Audio control based on your recommendation sounds incredible.
This is the perfect video for me. I have CT Sounds Meso 3-way set ready to go in my truck. I had the adapters which look really close to yours 3D printed. I just have to find the time to get it all done now. Thanks for another great video!
Holy crap: these look almost exactly the same as some sail panel pods I am making at the minute! I used photogrammetry to scan the car interior and built the pods in cad, and have completely 3D printed the first prototype. I made little grilles on the printer that attach with neo magnets and covered them with speaker grille cloth. They look sweet, but the design needs a little refinement before I do the final print and install (my cad skills are level: slow). I reccomend trying out Meshroom for photogrammetry. All you ned is a camera that you can lock on 'manual' mode so the settings for each picture are the same. Might make a lot of your fabrication easier? Nice one Mark.
Another Excellent Video! Thanks Mark for taking the time to show us your expertise. Its been Awesome watching your progress and growth. Keep up the good work!
Beautifully done Mark. I'm going to bet this will sound spectacular. I imagine it will be AudioControl processed and powered of course. Should turn into a phenomenal system. Nice use of acrylic. Amazing how the usual fabrication materials have changed over the years from routed MDF to much more resilient acrylic. And gotta love those XT60's. The perfect little connector.
Great info Mark. I like that you showed us the way to do the edges. I had a door panel crack on me at the edge from the mid-bass. 2 T2 6.5" per door deadened to shit. I just didn't know how to do the edge properly and it was to week to take the beat. As always thanks for the time you put into the videos and the info you share.
@@farfromovin I fiber glassed everything to the door panel without adding mounting to the door skin. Plenty of ccf between everything just didn't make the enclosure solid enough. I was my learning curve, next time will be way better and more solid.
Some tips, after the resin cloth dried, cut the plastic behind the cloth wide enough for fiberglass to goes in. Fiberglass from the back save a lot of sanding time and also better maintain of the shape form by the cloth, it is stronger on the baffle edge and doesn't crack easily. Another tips, for resin or putty to stick to the plastic, you should prepare the surface by sanding it with high grid until it is rough to the touch.
As always, love all ur videos mark . I'm planning a build on my yukon and planning on making some a pillar pods for my mids and highs . Keep up the great work . 😀👍
As always, beautiful job. Really want to do something like that on my 03 dodge ram. Been somewhat happy for awhile with what I did but now I find i want more depth and volume. Maybe when I'm feeling brave enough I'll pick up a couple a-pillars and give it a shot. Will need new speakers though. My hertz are getting old and I'm sure wearing out.
i prefer to use grill cloth as you have but not add any more fiberglass to the outside. i come in from behind with chop strand and resin, brush or pour it into the form and then add bondo to the outside. it saves sanding time as glass matt adds quite a bit of surface imperfections where as the grill cloth is smooth. i do add milled fiber to the resin when i paint it into the grill cloth. it self levels well and sets stronger than just resin alone in the cloth.
Can you make the acrylic piece with a 3D printer? It won't be as solid but if you need to use it just for a shape then I don't see why not. It can also allow you to skip the steps for gluing pieces together and also adding the wooden dowels.
If you used long, thin machine threaded screws to act as your stand off pegs, you could mount the plate to the A-Pillar with the flexibility to aim the speakers rather than using hot glue and dowel pegs. Countersink the plate to let the machine screw lay flush and run a nut to secure to the plate. Next, drill through your A-pillar where the screws are your guide for where to drill. When placing the plate, before inserting the screw into the holes in the A-Pillar, run a nut up each screw then insert the screws into the A-Pillar where you can have a second nut from behind to sandwich the A-Pillar. By varying how much or little you run the screws into the A-Pillar would give you a more precise way to aim and adjust the plates. Side note- slightly oversize your holes to give lateral movement capacity for the screws then cinch down as the final step of the aiming process.
@@CarAudioFabrication Did you try bending the machine screws to adapt to the angles? I was thinking you could anchor securely without torquing anything out of shape by manipulating the screw length and if needed doing slight bends in the screw itself.
Overall great work... But why did you go to all the trouble of putting a grill cloth on only to cut it out and fibreglass over it? Did I miss something?
Please direct if you've addressed this previously. In a 3-way system, is the pillar always preferred vs kick panel for mids/tweeter? Is it based on active vs. passive tuning? What's your take on overall 3-way speaker placement for best soundstage (right/left & vertical)? Thanks! Great vids.
Quick question... How did you get the upholstery to sit inside the edge of the acrylic without wrinkling? The video shows the wrap and the cut, but not that one part. Great work as always.
Do new cars make putting a really nice system much harder, if not impossible? Do you mess w the electronics of the car, like remove its stereo, or just changing speakers?
The installation looks super. But the tweeter and midrange stay very close to each other, the audio waves that come out from them will be interfered with and there will be a sound loss. Is this right?
what I want to know is what the best amplifier to use on these c7 speakers jl says the vxi 800 or xd 800 but those amps amps do not apply the correct rms rating for them so technically ur not gonna get the best out of them using 75 watts per channel and if u bridge the amps for the 6.5s u are applying 200 watts to each woofer so that's 25 watts over powering there max rms rating.
I started w a dinky 350 watt amp with a ported 15 rockford fosgate punch sub. It was 16. A guy with a crush on me paid a really smart physics guy. He calculated the acoustics so perfect. Anyways now I regret putting 10's (Rockford Phosgate punch 2's). I should have done 12's. Decks and mono D bass amps all Kenwood. Rockford for the mids and mid speakers. Infinity reference are also great for replacing factory speakers. Most of my equipment still works and its 17 yrs old!
Have you ever done an install in a 4th Gen camaro,I want to do a component set in my mines but I don’t want to cut into my doors and or a pillars for the tweeters,great vids as always
You go to extra lengths on your builds and I know that you aren’t the only one doing this, but you are the only one who is doing it to this level on this medium and we who are watching know how much you care about your work quality. That matters!
A little advise for your body work.When the bonding has dried enough to sand. Before sanding,wipe bondo with lacquer thinner on a rag to remove the film of goo on bond before sanding so sand paper doesn't clog up.That will help you save more sand paper and it will actually sand So much better.Ive restore cars for 30 years so its tricks like that,that has helped me alot.Im very much OCD like your self.Good luck and I love to all your videos.Great work. God bless..
Michael Torres thats a great tip. Thnx
Its odd that many body men do not do this themselves. But it definitely will save you on sand paper for sure and that stuff is getting up there in price!
I feel like this would make the bondo weak but you got the experience. I only worked with bondo for 2 years in highschool
Eventually he’ll see this...
Mark, I've used headliner material like this in past builds also. One trick my upholstery buddy, that I get my materials from, showed me was to spray rubbing alcohol on the material and the foam backing will release very easily. The alcohol will evaporate quickly and you're left with a perfectly clean finish material to work with. I know it's not much, but I've picked up plenty of tips, tricks, and advice from your videos so I wanted to give back a little. Keep up the great work man!
ah good suggestion, wish i saw this earlier. I ended up soaking mine in very hot water and then it peeled off OK, but still left some very small specs of black foam attached. certainly didnt separate as easily as shown in the video. The headliner i bought was made by Sunbrite from amazon
The level of detail, precision and patience is something else. Another masterbuild in progress, cannot wait to see the compelted look. Well done.
Mark, this was a labor of love for your dad. This is honorable.
About 2 mins in decided it's above my skill level lol
50 seconds for me 🤣
@@BigBoyOGBassLife54 😂 I was like yeah not happening
🤣💯that’s what’s good bout having connections🤣my cost a bit but it’ll prolly cost more by me messing up a lot 🤦🏽♂️🤣
Same… and also budget.
10 seconds for me 😜😂👏👏👏
This guy NEVER disappoints!!! He's like a modern day Michelangelo. Those A-pillars look freakin awesome!
True...Hell Even Al From Tool Time or That Older Guy That Use To Come On Tv, Building Dressers, Tables, & China Cabinets!!
Those A pillars look sharp! I’ve done dozens of them and Mark looks very confident doing them, which always provides for excellent results. I got into car audio in the 80’s (dual 10” subs in 1986!) and learned some hard lessons from installers who didn’t have the same degree of confidence.
I watch all of his videos even when I know that I will never have the talent to create these projects....
I once had a ford transit woofer speaker and a tiny speaker out of a toy and wired it in parallel with the ford speaker and had them wired directly to a headphone jack, plugged it into my mums iPad and they both worked at quite a decent volume and sounded really good, there was a small capacitor in series with the small speaker I used as a tweeter
LOL Love the series, went from keeping all stock parts incase we want to put it back, to so much for that modify the pillar!!
I bought a set from the junkyard for like 30 bucks as discussed. Non issue
You’ve asked in the past for ideas of things we would like to see. I recently created A-pillar pods modeled after the ones you made your dad. I used the unfinished version of them for months before I finished them, but when I finished, to my surprise, the sound got much, much better. Anyway, that got me thinking it would be nice to see you do an example of how aiming the speakers can affect the sound using and RTA, and maybe an example of how finishing them affects the sound as well. I really wasn’t expecting much change as they have two+ layers of fiberglass on top of the fleece, so I figured that was enough density, but adding different fillers really helped.
And that is what professional work looks like.. Enjoyed watching it.
Thank you for this Mark, I want to modify my door cards in the future. And this was the perfect tutorial for me.
Always happy when you drop a new vid. Your attention to detail amazes a hobbiest like me. Have learned alot from you. Thanks for all the tutorials you do. Keep the vids coming.
Probably one of the best channels in TH-cam. I've have come up with many ideas for Harleys from this channel
Mark watching your videos cost me money buying tools and supplies damn you. Keep up the good work love the videos
Such a nice install. Your dad will be proud
Glowforge isn’t the MOST used tool in my shop but it’s been the most helpful. What used to take a day takes a couple hours and you don’t even get dirty. Lol 👍🏻
That speaker cloth idea is really cool
Nice "Squeaks and knocks" he's got, all car jokes aside your work is the only work I idolize. You're marvelous at what you do. Keep it up! 😎
Great craftsmanship and ingenuity! Immensely helpful to learn from and useful for my level of projects.
He is the ueber master in car hifi! I learned a lot from you Marc, thx
No such professional work found in the capital of India, Delhi, really really loved it
i like the way you mixed that mixture to make sure the activator is mixed well
My grandfather once told me that every skill you learn is like having a job that pays forever. I’m 40 years old now and man he was right. I used to fix boats with fiberglass, cars with bondo and other resins. When I hit a metal block with my Aventador SV I made a whole new front spoiler out of carbon fiber. And now I’m getting into car audio as a hobby and sure enough, here’s resin work.
You could also use carbon fiber cloth to cover that whole piece. I would recommend using an AB resin that’s UV resistant though vs fiber glass resin. Then heat gun it to remove bubbles and make it look real nice. Btw I purchased the 5 channel Audio control based on your recommendation sounds incredible.
I love your shop! I do not have the patience for this kind of work. I'm a Master Machinist by trade, but this stuff is like art work!
Your work is A1, love the videos, Thanks for making them, I feel like you’re the “Crutchfield” of TH-cam.
CarAudioFabrication, i cant wait to see your next video demonstarting and reviewing these speakers!
This is the perfect video for me. I have CT Sounds Meso 3-way set ready to go in my truck. I had the adapters which look really close to yours 3D printed. I just have to find the time to get it all done now. Thanks for another great video!
Holy crap: these look almost exactly the same as some sail panel pods I am making at the minute! I used photogrammetry to scan the car interior and built the pods in cad, and have completely 3D printed the first prototype. I made little grilles on the printer that attach with neo magnets and covered them with speaker grille cloth. They look sweet, but the design needs a little refinement before I do the final print and install (my cad skills are level: slow).
I reccomend trying out Meshroom for photogrammetry. All you ned is a camera that you can lock on 'manual' mode so the settings for each picture are the same. Might make a lot of your fabrication easier?
Nice one Mark.
Wow. I just learned so much in such a short time. Thank-you so much!
Wow! I’m super impressed with your work. I really admire your attention to detail, I hope someday I can fabricate like you
Another Excellent Video! Thanks Mark for taking the time to show us your expertise. Its been Awesome watching your progress and growth. Keep up the good work!
Beautifully done Mark. I'm going to bet this will sound spectacular. I imagine it will be AudioControl processed and powered of course. Should turn into a phenomenal system. Nice use of acrylic. Amazing how the usual fabrication materials have changed over the years from routed MDF to much more resilient acrylic. And gotta love those XT60's. The perfect little connector.
Quedo profecional perfecto !!!! Gracias por compartir tu trabajo . Eres grande👍👍💯💯💯
those pillar pods look awesome nice work
Mark in the dark, your dads truck came out awesome my friend
Great info Mark. I like that you showed us the way to do the edges. I had a door panel crack on me at the edge from the mid-bass. 2 T2 6.5" per door deadened to shit. I just didn't know how to do the edge properly and it was to week to take the beat.
As always thanks for the time you put into the videos and the info you share.
Brett Brassard did you mount the mid bass to the door panel (door card), and not the door itself?
@@farfromovin I fiber glassed everything to the door panel without adding mounting to the door skin. Plenty of ccf between everything just didn't make the enclosure solid enough. I was my learning curve, next time will be way better and more solid.
Bravo,molto bravo,complimenti per l’ingegnosità nel progettare e realizzare il sistema tre vie soprattutto midrange e tweeter. Complimenti.
This is exactly what I need to do with my 2017 Toyota Camry SE. Damn you're GOOD!
You have an amazing talent!
When i hit the lottery. I know where my car is going.
Send it!
Always a good day when there’s an upload 👌🏻
You are a next-level artist. Absolutely gorgeous fabrication and design. Well done.
Some tips, after the resin cloth dried, cut the plastic behind the cloth wide enough for fiberglass to goes in.
Fiberglass from the back save a lot of sanding time and also better maintain of the shape form by the cloth, it is stronger on the baffle edge and doesn't crack easily.
Another tips, for resin or putty to stick to the plastic, you should prepare the surface by sanding it with high grid until it is rough to the touch.
Another amazing result , love the attention to detail on all your builds.
The cheat code for separating the foam from the material is ,do it in hot water, comes apart easy 👍👍👍
Hey hopefully you upload a video, about how to set the gains in the amp to the 3 way speakers. And the accurate equalize on the system.
Check out my video on amplifier settings here: th-cam.com/video/tiOUd3NkOyQ/w-d-xo.html
As always, love all ur videos mark . I'm planning a build on my yukon and planning on making some a pillar pods for my mids and highs . Keep up the great work . 😀👍
Awesome! If you have an Instagram tag me on your progress, @caraudiofab thanks for watching
Your woodworking skills are top notch, looking forward to see you work with the fibreglass!
As always mark. Great video !!! And awesome to see the JL Audio support !!
holy shit, you made it look stock, damn... Great job!
As always, beautiful job. Really want to do something like that on my 03 dodge ram. Been somewhat happy for awhile with what I did but now I find i want more depth and volume. Maybe when I'm feeling brave enough I'll pick up a couple a-pillars and give it a shot. Will need new speakers though. My hertz are getting old and I'm sure wearing out.
😍😍😍😍😍😍 awesome job. I would love some custom work like this on my 2018 Mustang GT...
i prefer to use grill cloth as you have but not add any more fiberglass to the outside. i come in from behind with chop strand and resin, brush or pour it into the form and then add bondo to the outside. it saves sanding time as glass matt adds quite a bit of surface imperfections where as the grill cloth is smooth. i do add milled fiber to the resin when i paint it into the grill cloth. it self levels well and sets stronger than just resin alone in the cloth.
This is a professional work ~ Great Job !
can you do the super budget build please idk what speakers are good and i dont wanna buy somethin bad
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Wickedly Awesome video 👍🏻👍🏻
I would charge the crap out of clients if I had this skill! Badass install
Something I like about one of the just previous Toyota auris or Corolla is that the tweeters in the front actually face towards you slightly
Wow! Excellent work Mark!
Cant wait to design, build and install mine Mark. Thanks for the how to vids!!!
That looks great Mark! Can't wait to see the next video.
Can you make the acrylic piece with a 3D printer? It won't be as solid but if you need to use it just for a shape then I don't see why not. It can also allow you to skip the steps for gluing pieces together and also adding the wooden dowels.
Nice work
Indeed build for me custom rear billar right and left tow speaker in each side twitter and spear mid rang 4 inch
For my car Camry xse 2019
Simple and beautiful! Killing it mark!
Yes! Been waiting for this post!
Do you feel the JL Audio speakers are worth the money? My $11 Dayton audio 3in FR sounds truly amazing.
Nice work Mark 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing!
Perhaps your best video
Bout to head to pick n pull and grab a couple extra panels 🏃🏽♂️🕺🏽
Absolute bliss!
I feel, that 2 6.5 8's in a t line would suite this build perfectly
If you used long, thin machine threaded screws to act as your stand off pegs, you could mount the plate to the A-Pillar with the flexibility to aim the speakers rather than using hot glue and dowel pegs. Countersink the plate to let the machine screw lay flush and run a nut to secure to the plate. Next, drill through your A-pillar where the screws are your guide for where to drill. When placing the plate, before inserting the screw into the holes in the A-Pillar, run a nut up each screw then insert the screws into the A-Pillar where you can have a second nut from behind to sandwich the A-Pillar. By varying how much or little you run the screws into the A-Pillar would give you a more precise way to aim and adjust the plates. Side note- slightly oversize your holes to give lateral movement capacity for the screws then cinch down as the final step of the aiming process.
I've tried this, but it just leads to warping the panel prior to fiberglassing, then you have a bent panel that's stuck that way.
@@CarAudioFabrication Did you try bending the machine screws to adapt to the angles? I was thinking you could anchor securely without torquing anything out of shape by manipulating the screw length and if needed doing slight bends in the screw itself.
Overall great work... But why did you go to all the trouble of putting a grill cloth on only to cut it out and fibreglass over it? Did I miss something?
Please direct if you've addressed this previously. In a 3-way system, is the pillar always preferred vs kick panel for mids/tweeter? Is it based on active vs. passive tuning? What's your take on overall 3-way speaker placement for best soundstage (right/left & vertical)? Thanks! Great vids.
Wouldn't it be better for the speakers to be in a symmetrical angle to the listener than symmetrical to the car?
the interior plastics on my Odyssey are trashed. I planned to primer and spray paint it but this gives me another option, thank you!
Wow. Amazing work Mark. Thanks for posting.
Omg, perfecto at it’s best 👍👍👍
Dude you the man! Enough said
Nice video!! But why dont you listen in the position of the speakers? I am thinking of reflektions of hard sufaces in the car.
Quick question... How did you get the upholstery to sit inside the edge of the acrylic without wrinkling? The video shows the wrap and the cut, but not that one part. Great work as always.
You should look into a surform plane, they're designed to remove and smooth body filler.
You're great. very nice work !! Bravo !!
great video ....where do u get the grill cloth ..?..
Do new cars make putting a really nice system much harder, if not impossible? Do you mess w the electronics of the car, like remove its stereo, or just changing speakers?
The installation looks super. But the tweeter and midrange stay very close to each other, the audio waves that come out from them will be interfered with and there will be a sound loss. Is this right?
No.
Looks SHARP man! 👍🏻
for tweeter you can also use a XT30
wow good shit i appreciate ppl like you thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge man
Mark, do you custom build apillars pods for sale? Meaning, if I sent you money, could you build a pair for my SUV?
Just a suggestion: could you number your videos and state what videos are next to make it easier to follow? fantastic work
what I want to know is what the best amplifier to use on these c7 speakers jl says the vxi 800 or xd 800 but those amps amps do not apply the correct rms rating for them so technically ur not gonna get the best out of them using 75 watts per channel and if u bridge the amps for the 6.5s u are applying 200 watts to each woofer so that's 25 watts over powering there max rms rating.
I started w a dinky 350 watt amp with a ported 15 rockford fosgate punch sub. It was 16. A guy with a crush on me paid a really smart physics guy. He calculated the acoustics so perfect.
Anyways now I regret putting 10's (Rockford Phosgate punch 2's). I should have done 12's.
Decks and mono D bass amps all Kenwood. Rockford for the mids and mid speakers. Infinity reference are also great for replacing factory speakers. Most of my equipment still works and its 17 yrs old!
Another awesome job and video
Nice video Mark, want to ask u whether is it necessary to stuff polyfill into midrange? Thanks
Can you post a link for the quick disconnects?
Have you ever done an install in a 4th Gen camaro,I want to do a component set in my mines but I don’t want to cut into my doors and or a pillars for the tweeters,great vids as always