🛒 EG4 LL-S Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH | Server Rack Battery: • Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-s-lithium-battery-48v-100ah-server-rack-battery-ul1973-ul9540a-10-year-warranty-pre-order/?ref=thesolarlab • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order • Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/products/eg4-ll-gyll-lithium-battery-v2?ref=TheSolarLab • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order ☀ Calculate Solar Panel Cost for your House: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-calculator?aff=207512&cam=750 🔔 Subscribe to our TH-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab 0:00 - Intro 0:52 - Spec Teardown 3:01 - Testing 6:44 - What We Don't Like 7:36 - What We Like 11:10 - Recap We've had our hands on the EG4 LL 48V Server Rack Batteries for a few months now. After putting some miles on them, we believe they are one of the best server rack battery options on the market, both in terms of quality and price. So if you can put up with pinching your fingers a little bit during the one time you lift the unit, it's definitely worth scooping up! ⚡ FOLLOW US: instagram.com/thesolarlab/ www.tiktok.com/@thesolarlab 👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab: www.thesolarlab.com We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
I have 12 of these in my 60kw solar system. Inverter is a 18kpv. 18KW of solar panels. This runs my whole house no problem. I cut the grid off 4 weeks ago I have become so confident with EG4 products. LOVE IT. Signature solar is the beez neez also. They had trouble during pandemic but this last year customer service is fantastic.
Hi Zachary - I'm dipping my toes in the water here. Confident in building a system, but not ready to commit to a 60Kw system :). Do you keep any grid power, or just use generators for bad weather? Do you think 60kwh of battery is overkill, or needed to cover bad weather? My house uses about 25kw/day, and even with my well pump and AC, I haven't seen more than 4-5 kw draw, so am thinking of the 6k EG4 w/ 10 or 15 Kwh of rack batteries - and 3-4 kw of solar.
@@zacharybrown624 Currently Gas water heater, gas stove, gas dryer. I suppose it I expand my system I would look to replace those, they are all 10-15 years old anyway.
I live off grid. I bought 3 of these LL-S batteries 6 months ago and just ran a gambit of tests. Each battery has discharged 125 kWh...they still have perfectly balanced cells and 100% of their rated capacity. Badass batteries and miles better than lead acid performance. I bought the small scale off-grid KIT-E0008 from Signature Solar
The amp rating goes up toward the end of your test because the voltage is dropping. Amps * Volts = Watts. Your load drew a constant wattage, so as the voltage curve drops toward the end of the battery's capacity, it needs to deliver more amps to maintain the same power output.
Was waiting for this one, glad to see you gave it such a positive review! I'm going to be buying 60 of these batteries (yes that is 307kWh worth) for our new fully off grid property. We are going to be buying 10 racks of 6 (with the integrated server rack). This is going to rock! Glad to know I am not making a poor decision using these batteries.
I think tiny baby has been doing a good job at the lift tests, but I think he's capable of doing more; That said, I think he should be promoted / also in charge of lighting the batteries on fire, in order to test their fire suppression capabilities. Looking forward to that video.
48V systems have drawbacks in the SF Bay Area, particularly on overcast days, as 48V panels may not charge effectively. Stepping down to 24V can still allow for charging in cloudy conditions, making it a better option for such weather. If you want to maximize the efficiency of a 48V setup, consider using 96V panels, which perform optimally for this purpose.
With the EG4 @ $1299 and the VATRER ( same spec ) battery at $980!! I’d love to see a side by side comparison!!! At least the same test you put the EG4 through on the VATRER!!!
I’ve seen nightmare stories with them. The big problem is the batteries get unbalanced or one battery goes bad, then how you repair that? I build my own with 280ah batteries for that same price.
From what I have seen, if the batteries themselves are not staying around the same soc, then they are likely not getting a good regular 100% soc charge. I typically recommend at least monthly 100% soc charge to keep all the batteries close together.
Watching the recent video on EG4 LL batteries, I am wondering how these batteries compare to systems such as EcoFlow and Anker. Both solar storage systems do similar things, but is one type superior to the other type ? I was leaning toward buying the new Anker F3800 as a way to make a roof mounted array of 15 solar panels a means to power a few vital home appliances during power outages . But I've heard that the Anker unit is limited in the solar power it can intake. (Right or untrue I don't know for certain. ) If units like Anker and EcoFlow do have SERIOUS ISSUES with limited solar power intake, is this also true of the EG4 LL storage units ?? How do these (seemingly) different methods of storing and then using solar energy compare ? Specifically, is one type of solar power storage and usage superior or "better " than the other type? I am NOT an electrical expert or pro, just a typical consumer trying not to make bad / costly choices BEFORE my solar panels are installed ! The solar company that I'm working with is reputable and need to know what sort of solar storage system (if any) I want, so they can include it into their design for this project. Any advice or help you can provide me is GREATLY APPRECIATED !
So if you want to actually use this in a server rack for home server and networking. What is the most cost effective UPS/charger/inverter/ (extra bonus for solar MPPT controller) ????
NEITHER, they are OK, but the inverter I bought from them never got connected to my computer or phone, when tried to call it in There was no fixes for it!! So I will never buy from them again, But I did find another battery well more capacity LIFEPO4 14.3KWh for 1800, SO what's cheapest now?
Great video. Quick and to the point. If I already have a few EG4-LifePower4 48v 100AH batteries in a rack with communications working can I add the LL batteries to in the rack to the same battery bank? Liked and subscribed!
Do a quick google search to learn what amps, amp-hours, and volts are. Idk how you can review batteries and not know the difference between energy and power
Hi : would love your recommendation for a portable home power source solution. We are in Texas. A Hurricane just came and we’ve been with no power for 72hours. So basically we want to prevent this from happening again in the future. Looking into a mobile solar power solution that can work to power our fridge and some kitchen appliances (we have a gas stove so don’t need it there ) and maybe TV and internet. We have 3 HVAC units so not sure if those things are powerful enough to power at least one of them. Looking into Anker SolixF3800, Ecoflow Delta 3 Pro, Ecoflow ultra , Jackery 2000 plus. A system that it’s easy to use (don’t know anything about electricity ) and that we can grow into as time passes. Would love your recommendation and an affiliate link to help your with the channel
Sorry to hear that your going through that right now. One of these units is definitely a good idea! By the sounds of what you need, i think the F3800 or the Delta Pro Ultra are probably your best bet. The Delta Pro 3 is good, but has a smaller inverter then both the F3800 & Delta Pro Ultra and wont be able to power as much all at once. F3800 is cheaper, and you can grow into it very easily in the future. smaller battery if you just buy the unit, so it wont last as long as a Delta Pro Ultra, but a good size inverter. Delta Pro Ultra has a larger battery, so it'll last longer, and slightly bigger inverter (not much). You can also grow into it easy, however it has a higher price tag. You cannot go wrong with either unit. Here is links to both, however i'm not sure if the links work in comments so if they dont - go to our review video about the unit you prefer and click one of the link there! Thank you & Good Luck with everything 👊🏼 Ultra - shopsolarkits.com/collections/ecoflow-delta-pro-ultra/products/ecoflow-delta-pro-ultra?ref=TheSolarLab DPU505 for $505 Off a Delta Pro Ultra Kits & Get Free Shipping F3800 - shopsolarkits.com/collections/anker-f3800-kits/products/anker-f3800?ref=TheSolarLab Use Code: THESOLARLAB for $101 off
I’m also in Houston and still without power since Monday 5am. I’ve been running my side x side fridge, deep freezer, coffeemaker, blender, 3 fans and internet non stop. I don’t have ac but the fans have been getting us by. I’m lucky that a close neighbor has power and I’ve been recharging my portable solar generators daily. I’ve estimated that my consumption is around 350-450ah for 24hrs so thats about 4500-5700wh of use a day. I hope this helps you better understand the demand you might need. If I powered a window Unit ac for just one room you would need double that power consumption per day. By the way my power is still out.
The bigger issue is usually recharging. The storage capacity itself is mostly only needed to bridge overnight. So you run loads + charge the batteries during the day and the battery continues running the loads at night. That means, generally, having enough solar to produce around 24 hours worth of energy for your loads. Alternative means of recharging help a lot too, such as having a small generator. Having a battery storage system means only needing to run the generator long enough to charge the batteries and then blessed silence the rest of the time. Its a good idea to know how many watt-hours your daily loads use. Add another 15% to deal with inverter losses and such. In anycase, I'll plop down nearly the whole involved mess but my real advice to anyone thinking about doing solar from scratch who has NEVER done solar / power / batteries before would be to start really small (but stick with a 25.6V or 51.2V system voltage from the get-go)... small and cheap. Then scale up from there once you've gotten your feet wet and understand what it all entails. -- Typical consumption: * Full sized residential fridge, averages 60W (a few hundred while running, nearly zero while not). * A few lights, average 30W * Induction kettle and microwave: 1500W x 15 minutes daily (three or four uses total). * Internet, wifi-routers: Typically 10W per router. * Internet, cable-modem: Typically 5W. Starlink would average more like 40W, fiber around 10W. * TV: 30W * Device charging: 30W x 1 hour a day, roughly * SMALL HVAC unit: 350W (can cool one small room or take the edge off a medium-sized room) (note: mini-split style with a variable speed DC compressor, NOT a full home A/C with an AC compressor). Inverter size needed: 3000W to be safe to ensure they can handle the fridge and the small HVAC unit's compressor start, and not trip on the microwave / induction kettle. Now figure out the actual watt-hours (aka energy use) per day of consumption: * Fridge 60W x 24h = 1440 Wh/day * Lights 30W x 24h = 720 Wh/day * Kettle, microwave: 1500W x 0.25 = 375 Wh/day * Wifi routers (say just one): 10W x 24h = 240 Wh/day * Internet router, say fiber: 10W x 24h = 240 Wh/day * Device charging: 30W x 1h = 30Wh/day * SMALL HVAC unit: 350W x 12h = 4200 Wh/day (assume 12 hours a day of use) Total 7245 Wh/day -- Add inverter overhead, assume 15% (another 1087 Wh/day) Grand Total 8332 Wh/day. That's 8.3 kWh/day. That would be 2 x EG4 LL batteries (10 kWh of storage), roughly, to have good margins and 24 hours of operation, giving you a good long time to run around like a chicken with its head cut-off when the power goes out. i.e. time to collect yourself and figure out all your options. -- Then the solar panels required... divide by 4 to be conservative for panel nameplate wattage. 8332 / 4 = 2083 watts worth of solar panel could keep all that going indefinitely, at least in summer when the sun is shining. So 2kWp worth of solar (kWp = nameplate panel wattage). 2000 kWp in solar on a 48V system (roughly 51.2V) = 40A charge controller. Best to split the solar into 2 x 1000W strings, roughly, each going into its own 20A charge controllers. (Or find other solutions such as all-in-one's or other options, depending on how much DIY pain you want to deal with and maintainability of the system). -- Already too long of a post. There are numerous system components, only slightly reduced by using an all-in-one verses discrete components. Panels, charge controllers, AC battery charger for generator interface, the batteries, the inverter, etc. Plus additional electrical items.. proper cabling, fuses, main battery fuse, additional breakers, and so forth. The costs can add up quickly when one is DIYing a "large" system, which is why I always recommend that people who never dipped their hands into solar power systems start small to begin with. -Matt
Great information Matt, had some in-laws asking about a solar setup that would help them next hurricane and I told them just to buy a duel fuel generator enough to run fridge,WiFi,lights and portable ac. If you don’t live in an apartment or care about the noise that’s the best option.
@@Card_addiction And I should add, for an ultra simple solution that still gives you some peace and quiet, having a small dual-fuel generator coupled with a small or medium-sized power station is a pretty good combo. Two purchases and you are done. You also save a ton of gasoline or propane because you don't have to run the generator to keep mostly-idle loads like a fridge active. You just run it to top-off the battery in the power station, then turn the sucker off until the next time you need to charge the power station. -Matt
Great video, I can't have anything like this because I live in an apartment but, out of all the other indoor options, what brand and set would you recommend? My energy needs are around 500kw per month during nov-apr months and around 800 may-oct. I was looking at ouikitel BP2000 pro plus a battery to make it 4000w. I'd appreciate your answer.
The model without the screen has no built in circuit breaker and only a 6 year warranty vs the screen version with built in circuit and a ten year warranty. It’s not just about a screen or no screen.
I just took a picture of my three EG4 server rack batteries that are not LL and they all have circuit breakers on them I couldn't figure out how to add a picture to your comment to prove it.
I can get a 310 Ah 48 V DIY battery kit with JK BMS from Alibaba including shipping for $2250 each. I won’t buy anything from Signature Solar ever again. Their 6500EX junk, poor customer service and warranty did it for me.
Yes, it's overhyped. For less than $700 more than what this battery is selling for, you can get more than triple the capacity (310 Ah @ 48 Volts) that this battery offers in an easy-to-assemble DIY kit using Grade A EVE cells and a JIK BMS with display and active cell balancing, Bluetooth and all the desired communication ports.
6:30 hey if you don't know how to talk about loads, surge, amp draw/support, voltage sag, etc. then don't even bring it up. One of these batteries cannot do nearly as much as you make it out.
To properly test this battery you need to tear down the BMS down to the component level and check the caps and FETs for their country of origin. If they're made in China. you can count on a shorter life expectancy than FETs and caps that are US or European made. Another test to perform is a cell impedance test to confirm whether or not the cells have been matched. We use a $6,600 Fluke BT521 advanced battery tester when testing for cell impedance. Another thing to consider is whether or not the BMS offers active cell balancing. If it does not, then as the cells age, and their individual impedance changes, you can expect a substantial capacity loss over time. Another thing to consider before buying this battery is the fact that for only a few hundred dollars more than what this battery sells for, you can easily DIY build a 48 Volt 300+ Amp hour (three times the capacity) battery with display, low and high temperature sensing and active cell balancing.
If you are serious I would subscribe and pay to see you test electronics i.e. batteries, inverters, bms etc. You should start a TH-cam channel. There are to many novice TH-camrs like this guy in a fishing hat who barely knows the basics
@@zgomez68 Yes, watch the off grid garage episode titled "EVE MB31 314Ah Cell Test and Review. Have I gotten selected cells to show on the channel?" I just ordered 16 of the MB31s and will put them through thorough (real) testing and will let you know,
I dealt with Signature Solar - terrible customer support. They are a drop-ship company that doesn't answer the phone. Never again. This guy and Will Prowse should not be recommending them or their drop-ship products.
Why would you bother? If you are going to do server rack batteries, build your own in a DIY case and 304ah cells for 3x the output. The DIY has a JK BMS that talks to nearly all of the big inverters including EG4, and for 40% more you get 3x the output. I don't get the love for 100ah 5Kwh server rack batteries. I have 90Kwh with 6 batteries, and you will get 30Kwh for 6 EG4 100ah. Is Sig Siolar or EG4 paying you to hype this underpowered rack mount??
8:55 really? You'd ground out a DC battery, which is low voltage, and get shocked? Well shit! Better start letting electricians know they are idiots and at risk. Weird how UL doesn't require coverage for such a "dangerous" exposed terminal.
My big lifep04 battery pack caught fire 2 weeks ago inside my shop, damned near burned my house down. We got water on it 70 seconds after the big pop and saved the house. Every component was name brand. We have extensive smoke and water damage. I will never have any of these battery units operating inside ever again. They will be in a ventilated steel shed away from the house. Cheap doesn't cut it.
🛒 EG4 LL-S Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH | Server Rack Battery:
• Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/eg4-ll-s-lithium-battery-48v-100ah-server-rack-battery-ul1973-ul9540a-10-year-warranty-pre-order/?ref=thesolarlab
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
• Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/products/eg4-ll-gyll-lithium-battery-v2?ref=TheSolarLab
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
☀ Calculate Solar Panel Cost for your House: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-calculator?aff=207512&cam=750
🔔 Subscribe to our TH-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab
0:00 - Intro
0:52 - Spec Teardown
3:01 - Testing
6:44 - What We Don't Like
7:36 - What We Like
11:10 - Recap
We've had our hands on the EG4 LL 48V Server Rack Batteries for a few months now. After putting some miles on them, we believe they are one of the best server rack battery options on the market, both in terms of quality and price. So if you can put up with pinching your fingers a little bit during the one time you lift the unit, it's definitely worth scooping up!
⚡ FOLLOW US:
instagram.com/thesolarlab/
www.tiktok.com/@thesolarlab
👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab:
www.thesolarlab.com
We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
Nice video! You can have it compare with Jakiper Battery?
I have 12 of these in my 60kw solar system. Inverter is a 18kpv. 18KW of solar panels. This runs my whole house no problem. I cut the grid off 4 weeks ago I have become so confident with EG4 products. LOVE IT. Signature solar is the beez neez also. They had trouble during pandemic but this last year customer service is fantastic.
Hi Zachary - I'm dipping my toes in the water here. Confident in building a system, but not ready to commit to a 60Kw system :). Do you keep any grid power, or just use generators for bad weather? Do you think 60kwh of battery is overkill, or needed to cover bad weather? My house uses about 25kw/day, and even with my well pump and AC, I haven't seen more than 4-5 kw draw, so am thinking of the 6k EG4 w/ 10 or 15 Kwh of rack batteries - and 3-4 kw of solar.
@nbgambler the bigger question that Noone asks with solar. Is your hot water electric or gas. That is my biggest draw on my system.
@@zacharybrown624 Currently Gas water heater, gas stove, gas dryer. I suppose it I expand my system I would look to replace those, they are all 10-15 years old anyway.
I live off grid. I bought 3 of these LL-S batteries 6 months ago and just ran a gambit of tests. Each battery has discharged 125 kWh...they still have perfectly balanced cells and 100% of their rated capacity. Badass batteries and miles better than lead acid performance. I bought the small scale off-grid KIT-E0008 from Signature Solar
The amp rating goes up toward the end of your test because the voltage is dropping. Amps * Volts = Watts. Your load drew a constant wattage, so as the voltage curve drops toward the end of the battery's capacity, it needs to deliver more amps to maintain the same power output.
Anyone who doesn't understand this shouldn't be making videos.
Volts are given, amps are asked for
We have 3 EG4-LL-S batteries with our EG46500ex-48 and they are fantastic! Thanks for the video
Was waiting for this one, glad to see you gave it such a positive review! I'm going to be buying 60 of these batteries (yes that is 307kWh worth) for our new fully off grid property. We are going to be buying 10 racks of 6 (with the integrated server rack). This is going to rock! Glad to know I am not making a poor decision using these batteries.
I think we all need photos when that install is finished!
You must be rich or something
How many of those batteries do I need to run a 24000 k btu air conditioner?
@@kurtrhaburn9159 Way too little information to answer your question.
I think tiny baby has been doing a good job at the lift tests, but I think he's capable of doing more; That said, I think he should be promoted / also in charge of lighting the batteries on fire, in order to test their fire suppression capabilities. Looking forward to that video.
48V systems have drawbacks in the SF Bay Area, particularly on overcast days, as 48V panels may not charge effectively. Stepping down to 24V can still allow for charging in cloudy conditions, making it a better option for such weather. If you want to maximize the efficiency of a 48V setup, consider using 96V panels, which perform optimally for this purpose.
What is the fire risk for this chemistry? Ive seen lots of lithium fires caused by batteries.
With the EG4 @ $1299 and the VATRER ( same spec ) battery at $980!! I’d love to see a side by side comparison!!! At least the same test you put the EG4 through on the VATRER!!!
Can these be used in a server room like a UPS?
Where are you getting the information it's the most popular rack style battery on the market? Which market?
The super market.
I’ve seen nightmare stories with them. The big problem is the batteries get unbalanced or one battery goes bad, then how you repair that?
I build my own with 280ah batteries for that same price.
can you post any of those stories with links here for us to follow up ourselves that are looking at this brand?
Not true that is what the BMS is for it manages the individual cells
From what I have seen, if the batteries themselves are not staying around the same soc, then they are likely not getting a good regular 100% soc charge. I typically recommend at least monthly 100% soc charge to keep all the batteries close together.
What about cell equalizing? Active or passive? How many mA per cell?
Hmm interesting. Do u think this would actually be better in my van build over. Ecoflo power kit or ultra ??
what else would i need to charge this with solar? what kind of controler/inverter would you recomend
I bought a EG4 battery 1.5 years ago. It didn't work out of the box. Took them 6 weeks to approve the return. Customer service was horrible.
Everyone's C/S sucked. Everyone was affraid to go back to work after pandemic because people are pussy's.
Did you eventually get a good product in return?
@@ThundarrZ I demanded a refund
Watching the recent video on EG4 LL batteries, I am wondering how these batteries compare to systems such as EcoFlow and Anker. Both solar storage systems do similar things, but is one type superior to the other type ?
I was leaning toward buying the new Anker F3800 as a way to make a roof mounted array of 15 solar panels a means to power a few vital home appliances during power outages . But I've heard that the Anker unit is limited in the solar power it can intake. (Right or untrue I don't know for certain. )
If units like Anker and EcoFlow do have SERIOUS ISSUES with limited solar power intake, is this also true of the EG4 LL storage units ?? How do these (seemingly) different methods of storing and then using solar energy compare ? Specifically, is one type of solar power storage and usage superior or "better " than the other type?
I am NOT an electrical expert or pro, just a typical consumer trying not to make bad / costly choices BEFORE my solar panels are installed ! The solar company that I'm working with is reputable and need to know what sort of solar storage system (if any) I want, so they can include it into their design for this project.
Any advice or help you can provide me is GREATLY APPRECIATED !
With all volts, amps hours, watts etc equal are server rack batteries better than "regular" lifepo4 batteries for residental solar setup? Thanks
So if you want to actually use this in a server rack for home server and networking.
What is the most cost effective UPS/charger/inverter/ (extra bonus for solar MPPT controller) ????
Any chance of a review of the EG4 Flex Boss 21? I am debating between it and the EG4 18pvk. Thank you
Coming soon 👀
NEITHER, they are OK, but the inverter I bought from them never got connected to my computer or phone, when tried to call it in There was no fixes for it!! So I will never buy from them again, But I did find another battery well more capacity LIFEPO4 14.3KWh for 1800, SO what's cheapest now?
What was the track playing at the start?
When putting these modules in parallel, does the module voltage need to be close to each other? Or is it not an issue with these modules?
if buying a full server rack of batteries (with ub), why get the LL over the LiPo4?
Drop the music. Degrades the info.
I agree, background noise...
@@luclaflamme4712 Also drop the endless zoom shots
Have you evaluated the Epoch 48V 100Ah Server Rack Battery?
Great video. Quick and to the point. If I already have a few EG4-LifePower4 48v 100AH batteries in a rack with communications working can I add the LL batteries to in the rack to the same battery bank?
Liked and subscribed!
Could you do a video on the Maple Leaf Beaver 48V server rack battery.
Which one do you recommend 24v or 48v for a Growatt inverter?
Your inverter needs to match the batteries. With 24v you've got a lot less options in everything.
Go with 48 volt system. Amazing how everything is now 48 volt, well designed, improved every 4 months.
Looking good, we like it too! Loving the zero carbon emissions and EV's too!!!1 ☺
Does this battery require a firmware update.
how does the fire arrester work?
If a fire starts , it arrests it.😂
Im not sure anyone knows because no one has tested it
Do a quick google search to learn what amps, amp-hours, and volts are. Idk how you can review batteries and not know the difference between energy and power
Hi : would love your recommendation for a portable home power source solution. We are in Texas. A Hurricane just came and we’ve been with no power for 72hours. So basically we want to prevent this from happening again in the future. Looking into a mobile solar power solution that can work to power our fridge and some kitchen appliances (we have a gas stove so don’t need it there ) and maybe TV and internet. We have 3 HVAC units so not sure if those things are powerful enough to power at least one of them. Looking into Anker SolixF3800, Ecoflow Delta 3 Pro, Ecoflow ultra , Jackery 2000 plus. A system that it’s easy to use (don’t know anything about electricity ) and that we can grow into as time passes. Would love your recommendation and an affiliate link to help your with the channel
Sorry to hear that your going through that right now. One of these units is definitely a good idea! By the sounds of what you need, i think the F3800 or the Delta Pro Ultra are probably your best bet. The Delta Pro 3 is good, but has a smaller inverter then both the F3800 & Delta Pro Ultra and wont be able to power as much all at once.
F3800 is cheaper, and you can grow into it very easily in the future. smaller battery if you just buy the unit, so it wont last as long as a Delta Pro Ultra, but a good size inverter.
Delta Pro Ultra has a larger battery, so it'll last longer, and slightly bigger inverter (not much). You can also grow into it easy, however it has a higher price tag.
You cannot go wrong with either unit. Here is links to both, however i'm not sure if the links work in comments so if they dont - go to our review video about the unit you prefer and click one of the link there! Thank you & Good Luck with everything 👊🏼
Ultra - shopsolarkits.com/collections/ecoflow-delta-pro-ultra/products/ecoflow-delta-pro-ultra?ref=TheSolarLab
DPU505 for $505 Off a Delta Pro Ultra Kits & Get Free Shipping
F3800 - shopsolarkits.com/collections/anker-f3800-kits/products/anker-f3800?ref=TheSolarLab
Use Code: THESOLARLAB for $101 off
I’m also in Houston and still without power since Monday 5am. I’ve been running my side x side fridge, deep freezer, coffeemaker, blender, 3 fans and internet non stop. I don’t have ac but the fans have been getting us by. I’m lucky that a close neighbor has power and I’ve been recharging my portable solar generators daily. I’ve estimated that my consumption is around 350-450ah for 24hrs so thats about 4500-5700wh of use a day. I hope this helps you better understand the demand you might need. If I powered a window Unit ac for just one room you would need double that power consumption per day. By the way my power is still out.
The bigger issue is usually recharging. The storage capacity itself is mostly only needed to bridge overnight. So you run loads + charge the batteries during the day and the battery continues running the loads at night.
That means, generally, having enough solar to produce around 24 hours worth of energy for your loads. Alternative means of recharging help a lot too, such as having a small generator. Having a battery storage system means only needing to run the generator long enough to charge the batteries and then blessed silence the rest of the time.
Its a good idea to know how many watt-hours your daily loads use. Add another 15% to deal with inverter losses and such.
In anycase, I'll plop down nearly the whole involved mess but my real advice to anyone thinking about doing solar from scratch who has NEVER done solar / power / batteries before would be to start really small (but stick with a 25.6V or 51.2V system voltage from the get-go)... small and cheap. Then scale up from there once you've gotten your feet wet and understand what it all entails.
--
Typical consumption:
* Full sized residential fridge, averages 60W (a few hundred while running, nearly zero while not).
* A few lights, average 30W
* Induction kettle and microwave: 1500W x 15 minutes daily (three or four uses total).
* Internet, wifi-routers: Typically 10W per router.
* Internet, cable-modem: Typically 5W. Starlink would average more like 40W, fiber around 10W.
* TV: 30W
* Device charging: 30W x 1 hour a day, roughly
* SMALL HVAC unit: 350W (can cool one small room or take the edge off a medium-sized room) (note: mini-split style with a variable speed DC compressor, NOT a full home A/C with an AC compressor).
Inverter size needed: 3000W to be safe to ensure they can handle the fridge and the small HVAC unit's compressor start, and not trip on the microwave / induction kettle.
Now figure out the actual watt-hours (aka energy use) per day of consumption:
* Fridge 60W x 24h = 1440 Wh/day
* Lights 30W x 24h = 720 Wh/day
* Kettle, microwave: 1500W x 0.25 = 375 Wh/day
* Wifi routers (say just one): 10W x 24h = 240 Wh/day
* Internet router, say fiber: 10W x 24h = 240 Wh/day
* Device charging: 30W x 1h = 30Wh/day
* SMALL HVAC unit: 350W x 12h = 4200 Wh/day (assume 12 hours a day of use)
Total 7245 Wh/day
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Add inverter overhead, assume 15% (another 1087 Wh/day)
Grand Total 8332 Wh/day. That's 8.3 kWh/day.
That would be 2 x EG4 LL batteries (10 kWh of storage), roughly, to have good margins and 24 hours of operation, giving you a good long time to run around like a chicken with its head cut-off when the power goes out. i.e. time to collect yourself and figure out all your options.
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Then the solar panels required... divide by 4 to be conservative for panel nameplate wattage.
8332 / 4 = 2083 watts worth of solar panel could keep all that going indefinitely, at least in summer when the sun is shining. So 2kWp worth of solar (kWp = nameplate panel wattage).
2000 kWp in solar on a 48V system (roughly 51.2V) = 40A charge controller. Best to split the solar into 2 x 1000W strings, roughly, each going into its own 20A charge controllers. (Or find other solutions such as all-in-one's or other options, depending on how much DIY pain you want to deal with and maintainability of the system).
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Already too long of a post. There are numerous system components, only slightly reduced by using an all-in-one verses discrete components. Panels, charge controllers, AC battery charger for generator interface, the batteries, the inverter, etc. Plus additional electrical items.. proper cabling, fuses, main battery fuse, additional breakers, and so forth.
The costs can add up quickly when one is DIYing a "large" system, which is why I always recommend that people who never dipped their hands into solar power systems start small to begin with.
-Matt
Great information Matt, had some in-laws asking about a solar setup that would help them next hurricane and I told them just to buy a duel fuel generator enough to run fridge,WiFi,lights and portable ac. If you don’t live in an apartment or care about the noise that’s the best option.
@@Card_addiction And I should add, for an ultra simple solution that still gives you some peace and quiet, having a small dual-fuel generator coupled with a small or medium-sized power station is a pretty good combo. Two purchases and you are done.
You also save a ton of gasoline or propane because you don't have to run the generator to keep mostly-idle loads like a fridge active. You just run it to top-off the battery in the power station, then turn the sucker off until the next time you need to charge the power station.
-Matt
The difference between this and the less expensive LifePower is more than the screen.
Sweet. Thanks fellas
Good video.
Great video, I can't have anything like this because I live in an apartment but, out of all the other indoor options, what brand and set would you recommend? My energy needs are around 500kw per month during nov-apr months and around 800 may-oct. I was looking at ouikitel BP2000 pro plus a battery to make it 4000w.
I'd appreciate your answer.
Wouldn't it be 'spec down'?, tear down is something different.
Now we need a test with all 64 together, and then find a way to max it out.
The model without the screen has no built in circuit breaker and only a 6 year warranty vs the screen version with built in circuit and a ten year warranty. It’s not just about a screen or no screen.
I just took a picture of my three EG4 server rack batteries that are not LL and they all have circuit breakers on them I couldn't figure out how to add a picture to your comment to prove it.
I can get a 310 Ah 48 V DIY battery kit with JK BMS from Alibaba including shipping for $2250 each. I won’t buy anything from Signature Solar ever again. Their 6500EX junk, poor customer service and warranty did it for me.
How many of those batteries do i need to run a 24 k btu aircon?
Way too little information to answer your question.
Yes, it's overhyped. For less than $700 more than what this battery is selling for, you can get more than triple the capacity (310 Ah @ 48 Volts) that this battery offers in an easy-to-assemble DIY kit using Grade A EVE cells and a JIK BMS with display and active cell balancing, Bluetooth and all the desired communication ports.
Nice work on this one.
Excellent honest throw it around review, awesome 👌 your show rocks!
Great video, guys!
Do the eg4 solar ac!
It’s a 51.2V battery.
6:30 hey if you don't know how to talk about loads, surge, amp draw/support, voltage sag, etc. then don't even bring it up. One of these batteries cannot do nearly as much as you make it out.
To properly test this battery you need to tear down the BMS down to the component level and check the caps and FETs for their country of origin. If they're made in China. you can count on a shorter life expectancy than FETs and caps that are US or European made. Another test to perform is a cell impedance test to confirm whether or not the cells have been matched. We use a $6,600 Fluke BT521 advanced battery tester when testing for cell impedance. Another thing to consider is whether or not the BMS offers active cell balancing. If it does not, then as the cells age, and their individual impedance changes, you can expect a substantial capacity loss over time. Another thing to consider before buying this battery is the fact that for only a few hundred dollars more than what this battery sells for, you can easily DIY build a 48 Volt 300+ Amp hour (three times the capacity) battery with display, low and high temperature sensing and active cell balancing.
Do you have any recommendations on companies that sell the reliable diy batteries?
...not sure if satire of "just DIY it bro" posters or not.
If you are serious I would subscribe and pay to see you test electronics i.e. batteries, inverters, bms etc. You should start a TH-cam channel. There are to many novice TH-camrs like this guy in a fishing hat who barely knows the basics
@@zgomez68 Yes, watch the off grid garage episode titled "EVE MB31 314Ah Cell Test and Review. Have I gotten selected cells to show on the channel?" I just ordered 16 of the MB31s and will put them through thorough (real) testing and will let you know,
Your DIY battery Weil not come with a 10 year warranty, that may reduce the benefits of your suggested method.
I dealt with Signature Solar - terrible customer support. They are a drop-ship company that doesn't answer the phone. Never again. This guy and Will Prowse should not be recommending them or their drop-ship products.
Great review!
nice
Would have been cooler if you stayed committed.
Why would you bother? If you are going to do server rack batteries, build your own in a DIY case and 304ah cells for 3x the output. The DIY has a JK BMS that talks to nearly all of the big inverters including EG4, and for 40% more you get 3x the output. I don't get the love for 100ah 5Kwh server rack batteries. I have 90Kwh with 6 batteries, and you will get 30Kwh for 6 EG4 100ah. Is Sig Siolar or EG4 paying you to hype this underpowered rack mount??
Does it get heavier the voltage you put into it? 🤣🤣🤣
8:55 really? You'd ground out a DC battery, which is low voltage, and get shocked? Well shit! Better start letting electricians know they are idiots and at risk. Weird how UL doesn't require coverage for such a "dangerous" exposed terminal.
Hey, I hope you have a better day tomorrow!
Medium-sized guy? You are a little kid.
Thanks?
EEL batteries are cheaper
My big lifep04 battery pack caught fire 2 weeks ago inside my shop, damned near burned my house down. We got water on it 70 seconds after the big pop and saved the house.
Every component was name brand. We have extensive smoke and water damage. I will never have any of these battery units operating inside ever again. They will be in a ventilated steel shed away from the house. Cheap doesn't cut it.