nice, I have installed 1000s of these... I did Doors for ten years and just picking up on Picking and such.. thinking about a new venture in a business
I'm so glad all your content is still up. Six years on, this is the single best video about bypassing commercial latches. Miss you Bill! Hope all is well.
For clarification, when you push in the smaller "locking bar" you are not disabling it. The strike plate is supposed to push it in & the larger tapered latch is supposed to protrude into the strike cavity. This activates the dead-latch function preventing the latch from being pushed in. If the gap between the door edge & the strike plate is too large, the locking bar will not be pushed in far enough & then the latch can be pushed in with no resistance.
Great video,I'll have to buy those to add to my tool box.As a licensed locksmith I've had many years of honing my lock picking skills but it never hurts to have tools like the ones in the video.Great video Bill,thank you and God bless you and your family.
Yeah, You should be! And we have Assa here in Sweden. All Scandinavian lock-desings are faaar superior to the rest. Look at videos for European looks, which is a ground up design flopp from the begining. Which they no tries to make better ()good luck. But start with a bad design from the begining wouldn't make them better later. No matter what you do with a bad design from the start. Even US have better looks than most EU locks. The US looks problem lies not in bad design from the start. US looks morely in their straight, and todays weak, keyways. Today it is noting compared to peoples new knowledge. A deadbolt with a modern look and a real strikeplate should be ok. But the EU-cylinder have a major begining design flaw.
The more I watch and learn, the more I find myself looking at every lock that's around me, be it at work or home, and I start to think of the locks in terms of how easy they can be defeated... Which also means that I also have found myself seeing some very common locks looking more like a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal more then an actual safety measure or way to protect something.
I used to work with a guy that said "Locks keep honest people honest." Once you start to understand how locks work you realize that this is truly the case.
Keep in mind while looking at those locks that breaking and entering is a big time felony and what's more if you open locks without authorization you have to worry about not only the police but legally armed home onwers such as myself."seeing some very common locks looking more like a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal more then an actual safety measure or way to protect something." you say?I think it would be much much more of "a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal" breaking in and said "thief/ criminal" finding himself/herself staring down the barrel of a .45 acp or a shotgun because then said "thief/criminal" will be in very dire need of a change of underwear in a really big hurry.If you think that I'm exaggerating look for youtube videos that demonstrate the kinds of damage .45 acp pistols and shotguns do to cinder blocks and water melons,I can promise you that the images in such videos will stay with you forever.
@@michaelkartman3543 Thank you but I beg to differ.I am a licensed locksmith and I speak from a locksmith's experience and point of view.It took me the better part of six years before I started to become proficient at picking locks open and I can tell you with complete certainty that locks are not as easy to pick open as many people are led to believe.No thief is going to spend the amount of time,years in many cases,and the amount of money on books and tools that it takes to properly study,understand and become proficient at lock manipulation.A person can never tell how difficult picking a lock is going to be just by looking at the lock,even cheap locks can be made pick resistant by installing security pins in said locks and that is where years of practice and study come into play.If you or anyone thinks that criminals/thieves are going to spend hundreds and thousands on books and tools and years to learn lock manipulation just to commit crimes you are not thinking properly because criminals/thieves although often not the smartest people are also not as ignrant and as stupid as people may think.Why would criminals/thieves spend hundreds and thousands of dollars on lock tools and books when they may very well need hundreds and thousands to bail themselves out of jail with?
Nelson Echevarria who’s saying that? No one was talking about criminals. And it does not require years of experience and thousands of dollars in tools and books to become proficient at picking basic locks. I’ve been picking a little over a month now and I would consider myself intermediate, with only a $50 set from sparrows and watching TH-cam videos( and of course lots of practice) It’s not likely for criminals to spend any time becoming proficient at picking, I agree, but at the same time it isn’t difficult to learn how to rake or bypass most of the common locks people come across on a daily basis. I think all he was saying is that it’s really a false sense of security to an extent when you look around you and most people are using basic Kwik sets to secure their homes and cheap master locks to secure their belongings. It’s really a lack of knowledge that keeps people feeling “secure”, if the majority of people knew how easy it is to manipulate the basic locks people use everyday, they probably wouldn’t feel so secure. It’s truly not as difficult as you make it out to be in my humble opinion. You just need to have the motivation to want to do it. There’s a reason we implement new security features into locks every year, such as security pins, ball bearings to stop shimming, and blocking the actuators to negate bypassing, and that’s to stay ahead of the criminals trying to get into them.
Out Of all of your cool intros, I like this one the best. Best intros I've seen on TH-cam. That little part at the beginning where the lock lab logo is displayed.
Great tool. I've never seen one like it I really didn't see the need for one because these cylinders are so easy to pick. Or drill out if need be. I'm sure a higher security cylinder would probably be to tough to get the bypass tool through. But I appreciate the creativity of this method. Great for the o'l knowledge bank. (FYI. I am a locksmith )
The "locking bar" ,as you call it, is the deadlatch bar. When the lock is in a door and installed correctly, that bar is pushed in to prevent shimming or loiding the latch. Bill, you exactly show that at 1:48 but you never have the bar pushed in after that. If it is not pushed in, the latch is not deadlatched and it can be loided back to gain entry.
rallock67 this definitely comes into play of the gap between door and door frame is very large. The door may latch but if the deadlatch is not engaged properly you can still drag the latch back. This also occurs if the strike plate is not installed correctly call, a common problem with electric strikes
Looking for a good lock for my home, I was worried until 8:22 when you said a steel plate would stop a shim...but then you showed how to bypass that. Maybe I need one of those 18” plates.
BTW the cylinder shown in the video is a temporary zinc cylinder that comes with most aluminum frame doors. They are suppose to be replaced with a solid brass cylinder.
Sadly, MANY people use those cylinders here in WV, and even the Ilco and General Lock equivalents have the hole in the back anyway, so it still works on most usual commercial glass storefront doors..
In Seattle these locks are typically only seen on storefront doors. I've only ever seen these in very rich people's homes. Aluminum and glass doors are very expensive!
Hello bosnianbill another great video. This technique only works on doors that swing out. If the door swings in then the shimming will not work with the Souber shimming tool because of the rabbit of the door frame.
Nothing a little brazing on the back of the plug cannot stop :) That works on american cores as well just have to touch the tip of the key with a file if there is too much material in the plug.
It looks like you could do it yourself. Those 2 philips screws could be backed off a bit and I'm guessing a knock-out from an electric junction box would fit in that space. Might be a little more effective to rig a wire in that big open space to trip an alarm if someone tried to pick it. I dont know why lock companies don't do that.
htomerif medeco, protec2 and other lock manufacturers block the back of the keyway. If you put objects between the back of cylinder and cam you will probably run into problems pulling the key out of the cylinder unless the object is larger than the cylinder. Then you may run into friction problems and it's hard to turn the key.
How would you bypass a solenoid? Looking at a lock type that will both need pins and an r.f interface. Only triggers the solenoid when all pins are depressed. So a bit like an ignition lock but better as an ignition lock would deactivate the onboard immobiliser with the wrong key face but correct r.f and vice versa.
I've seen police using a steel carpenter's square with an angle cut into one of the sides as a replacement for that 40 dollar tool. Seems a lot cheaper and at least as effective.
Did I hear him correctly? It's a upvc Salber latch tool. Is this tool used when a latch protector is bolted to the of the door to protect against shimming of the Latch?
What was the name of the shim tool you use? The one you said you bought from Lockpick Canada? I am not able to find it, and not able to fully hear what you call it.
then there would be too much pressure on the latch, when the door closes and hits the strike or frame the latch wouldn't retract so the door can close fully. leaving your door open.
does anyone know if this would work on a Schlage L series? i know its similar with having a separate deadlatch but I wonder if this tool would work on one of them
use the thin super micas as a mouse, they are great to work its way to the latch, it gives a nice smooth guide for a thick one to follow. just wish they would make them twice as long for leverage as there isnt much left to hold on to once you have got past everything.
In Australia at least, house front doors (and most room doors) almost always open inwards and the door frame wraps around the front of the door (so the door closes onto it). It would be like having the lock barrel pointing out the other side (the same side as the rounded or angled side of the bolt is on) to what is in this video, with no direct line to slide a shim in. I wonder if this method could be made to work here?
If pushed in from,out side the door should not have a plate !(right?) if pulled shut it might , very cool tools I have never seen , this is going to be a new hobbie, nice and quiet w coffee, nice video I would love to see a selection of tools , and send a company that has good tool and kits anyone thanks Keep pickin
When installed properly, the locking bar is always depressed when the door is closed. The locking bar does not stick out when the door is closed as shown in this video.
Small teeth/catches such as the one that is meant to prevent the latch from operating are known as "pawls" (plural) Just for everyones edumification : ) Just the same as the "pawl" that prevents slip back on a gear driven winch.
Could ya do a late 80's chevy door key lock.i lock my keys in my chev more than i feel comfortable sayin lol.i do carry a hide a key also but that has somehow found its way locked in the carmany times .ive gotten real good with a coat hanger but the door seals are starting to show the wear.and it always seems to happen at home
Thank you Horseshoe Lock & Key. As a professional locksmith it drives me crazy that this guy and the Lock Picking Lawyer can't even get their terminology and pronunciations right. Sure they're good at picking locks, but come on .... if you're going to present yourself as a pro or an educator or any kind of expert at least educate yourself on correct terminology. It's a cylinder cam NOT a tailpiece and it's a deadltach pin NOT a locking bar. Also, in my experience the bad guy got in with an illegally obtained key or he just picked up a rock and broke the glass.
so if you added a piece at the back of the keyway you could prevent someone using that bypass driver ? or are their 2 locks either side (i'e inside and outside) (judging by the hole i gather their is)
So, you could basically use this driver along side any sort of latch slipping tool to finish the job?? y'know music wire, shrum hook, stuff like that too.
I have watched a number of your videos I have a question though in a lot of the video you identify the lock which lets you know how to attack it. i can't see a lot of identifiers on some of these locks such as this one. Could you do a video on how to ID locks that don't have any markings? Thanks
Do you have a link for the tool you’d use to slip the latch when there’s a latch guard on the door? I’m having trouble locating it and would like to add it to my kit.
Use a Schlage modular cylinder with AR cam # 20-013 or a Schlage I/C cylinder #20-062 with AR cam, as the back of these Cylinders are Not Open, don't forget to use a Keedex K-24 CYL GUARD RING as the he states, outside brunt force of turning the cylinder can happen
possibly, depending on how good you are at pushing down a spring loaded spin-able barrel shape. would be at opposite side from bolt when in a locked state.
Hey Bill, I just went to the Sparrows website & couldn't find any info on whether or not this will work with the Adams Rite deadbolt or swing Bolt lock. Do you know if it will work on them ?
Also, when you refer to the part of the cylinder that does the actual unlocking on a mortise cylinder, please use the word cam. Not tailpiece. Common household deadbolts have a tailpiece.
jim renderer No , it will only work on the Adams Rite latch units It does not have the strength to overcome the locking mechanism in the MS series bolts , nor was it designed to do so .
Interesting. I'm sure you've seen before the LE only Adams bypass tools that work on all versions of adams commercial locks. The little hook bar thingy, I had the chance to play around with one and it's a really neat tool. Obviously they are restricted tools since they can open a great number of storefront doors, what I don't understand is why this tool is out there, but not the more effective one? Its kind of like these companies pick and choose how effective of a tool they release?
+Kyle Corey I wish I could but there are no pictures of it or references to it literally anywhere yet I held it and opened 3 different adams rite locks with it. Q tactical makes it but good luck getting access to their catalog. If you cannot prove you are LE/MIL with a need then no way. trust me I tried :)
I mean why wouldn't any tool be out there? security through obscurity is fake security. This hole should be plugged, its unconscionable to even sell these things calling them locks as is.
There is usually not enough room to wiggle that special pick in between the rear faces of both cams. The video shows an AR with only the one cylinder installed, but what about the thumb turn cylinder? Typically, these two cylinder’s cams are usually just a few mm apart. Dammit, now I gotta buy something ELSE from Sparrows, just to see if it really works ....
how long does it usually take to get things from sparrows I ordered some stuff a while ago and have still not received it and they do not have a hotline that you can call
I live on the East Coast and it can take anywhere from 7-14 days, depending on customs. If it gets caught up in Canadian customs, it can take even longer.
Thank you I contacted them via email and their customer service is actually excellent they email me back in less than 10 minutes after I emailed them but they made a mistake and shipped my package to the wrong address
I love the channel for a long time but only now came across this video, which is somewhat incorrect, the deadlatch will be against a metal sheet and not in the hole of the frame. It's used to prevent shiming. The bypass part is probably accurate but it's a huge flaw that part.
Hi Bill The Sauber (did I spell that right?) UPVC tool: Is it actually made of UPVC? It looks like it's made of metal. How do you get it round the metal plate which covers the edge of the door? You didn't demonstrate this.
I guess an open backplate on the back of the lock cylinder was cheaper to manufacture than a closed one that would prevent 'tools' to get past the keyway and manipulate the inner workings of the lock.
Very interesting, but (and I am a beginner here) are you not working from both sides of the lock at once in this video? Which would be impossible if the door is shut. Would that make much difference to the procedure eg tools getting in the way of one another? Love your videos. VERY interesting.
He only turns it around to show you the mechanism and how things are working, when he shows how to actually do it all actions are performed from the front.
Great video Bill! I wonder if you know if this wonderful tool will work on a A&R MS1850 style deadlock as well? A lot of our customers have these type, and have the cam fall off the back, so I'm looking for a quicker way to get in and get the job over with. From what I see, it should, but I'm wondering what you think on it? Thanks. E
Thanks. I dropped an email to Sparrows, so hopefully I hear something back. It really looks like it should be perfect, but I want to know for sure before pulling the trigger. Thanks Again
Good VID. I prefer the picking vids over the bypass vids but this one was very well done. Would this still be in the realm of a locksmith or did we blur the lines a bit? Looks like a KA-BAR blade. I carry a TDI Tanto daily.
very cool! Thanks for the info Bill! Hey, speaking of working on locks that are actually installed in doors, do you have any tips for picking a deadbolt where the bolt itself is bound up on the door jamb so that it requires really heavy pressure on the tension tool? Obviously, push the door in or pull it out to try to reduce the binding, butt if that is still not doing the trick, is there anything else that might help?
That shouldn't matter, you should be able to pick it like normal but once it's picked then the tension will get tight once you try to turn it all the way. My advise is to use tok and bok once it's picked and then turn it.
killerpicking Really? So basically the tailpiece won't engage until after the lock is picked? I could swear it was giving me trouble while I was picking it but that does make sense. Maybe it was all in my head...
assuming you have the authority to be picking the lock on said door, once opened, you could do a bandaid approach and grind out the strike plate hole. or you could do it right and fix the problem, whether replacing the worn hinges to fix a sagging door, or replacing the door itself if it's warped...
+Logic Bob the cam engages with pressure yes, but it shouldn't be touching anything in the door yet until fully picked. You can watch this video again and you can see that the tail piece touches nothing until it reaches the bottom to catch on the locking mechanism. Most if not all deadbolts work the same way.
It is in the description and on the website. lock-lab.com/where-to-buy-stuff/ Here, I'll make it easy for you: www.sparrowslockpicks.com www.lockpickcanada.com
+Rikka i would really appreciate that, just to be clear, all i can find is videos where people opens car doors with really long slim jims but i haven't found any videos where someone opens doors or gates with short ones, i have noticed that the locking bars in newer doorlocks locks in place when you lock the door and thats why you can't jim some of them.
the locking bar, or dead latch, is always depressed to prevent the latch from being shimmed, the bypass tool disengaged the dead latch as the key would allowing you to open the latch or at least shim it
nice, I have installed 1000s of these... I did Doors for ten years and just picking up on Picking and such.. thinking about a new venture in a business
sunnylandcamper still have to bypass the alarms lol.
Same I worked union and installed doors and hardware. They referred to us as “door whores “
I'm so glad all your content is still up. Six years on, this is the single best video about bypassing commercial latches. Miss you Bill! Hope all is well.
For clarification, when you push in the smaller "locking bar" you are not disabling it. The strike plate is supposed to push it in & the larger tapered latch is supposed to protrude into the strike cavity. This activates the dead-latch function preventing the latch from being pushed in. If the gap between the door edge & the strike plate is too large, the locking bar will not be pushed in far enough & then the latch can be pushed in with no resistance.
Great video,I'll have to buy those to add to my tool box.As a licensed locksmith I've had many years of honing my lock picking skills but it never hurts to have tools like the ones in the video.Great video Bill,thank you and God bless you and your family.
This is equal amounts awesome as a hobbyist and frightening as a homeowner. Thanks Bill.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO BILL! There are no other videos for this tool that go into this much detail
I am more and more happy that we have Abloy locks here in Finland.
Yeah, You should be! And we have Assa here in Sweden. All Scandinavian lock-desings are faaar superior to the rest.
Look at videos for European looks, which is a ground up design flopp from the begining. Which they no tries to make better ()good luck. But start with a bad design from the begining wouldn't make them better later. No matter what you do with a bad design from the start.
Even US have better looks than most EU locks. The US looks problem lies not in bad design from the start. US looks morely in their straight, and todays weak, keyways. Today it is noting compared to peoples new knowledge. A deadbolt with a modern look and a real strikeplate should be ok. But the EU-cylinder have a major begining design flaw.
The more I watch and learn, the more I find myself looking at every lock that's around me, be it at work or home, and I start to think of the locks in terms of how easy they can be defeated... Which also means that I also have found myself seeing some very common locks looking more like a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal more then an actual safety measure or way to protect something.
I used to work with a guy that said "Locks keep honest people honest." Once you start to understand how locks work you realize that this is truly the case.
Keep in mind while looking at those locks that breaking and entering is a big time felony and what's more if you open locks without authorization you have to worry about not only the police but legally armed home onwers such as myself."seeing some very common locks looking more like a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal more then an actual safety measure or way to protect something." you say?I think it would be much much more of "a slight annoyance to a thief/ criminal" breaking in and said "thief/ criminal" finding himself/herself staring down the barrel of a .45 acp or a shotgun because then said "thief/criminal" will be in very dire need of a change of underwear in a really big hurry.If you think that I'm exaggerating look for youtube videos that demonstrate the kinds of damage .45 acp pistols and shotguns do to cinder blocks and water melons,I can promise you that the images in such videos will stay with you forever.
Nelson Echevarria I think you totally missed the point man. No ones talking about breaking into homes.
@@michaelkartman3543 Thank you but I beg to differ.I am a licensed locksmith and I speak from a locksmith's experience and point of view.It took me the better part of six years before I started to become proficient at picking locks open and I can tell you with complete certainty that locks are not as easy to pick open as many people are led to believe.No thief is going to spend the amount of time,years in many cases,and the amount of money on books and tools that it takes to properly study,understand and become proficient at lock manipulation.A person can never tell how difficult picking a lock is going to be just by looking at the lock,even cheap locks can be made pick resistant by installing security pins in said locks and that is where years of practice and study come into play.If you or anyone thinks that criminals/thieves are going to spend hundreds and thousands on books and tools and years to learn lock manipulation just to commit crimes you are not thinking properly because criminals/thieves although often not the smartest people are also not as ignrant and as stupid as people may think.Why would criminals/thieves spend hundreds and thousands of dollars on lock tools and books when they may very well need hundreds and thousands to bail themselves out of jail with?
Nelson Echevarria who’s saying that? No one was talking about criminals. And it does not require years of experience and thousands of dollars in tools and books to become proficient at picking basic locks. I’ve been picking a little over a month now and I would consider myself intermediate, with only a $50 set from sparrows and watching TH-cam videos( and of course lots of practice) It’s not likely for criminals to spend any time becoming proficient at picking, I agree, but at the same time it isn’t difficult to learn how to rake or bypass most of the common locks people come across on a daily basis. I think all he was saying is that it’s really a false sense of security to an extent when you look around you and most people are using basic Kwik sets to secure their homes and cheap master locks to secure their belongings. It’s really a lack of knowledge that keeps people feeling “secure”, if the majority of people knew how easy it is to manipulate the basic locks people use everyday, they probably wouldn’t feel so secure. It’s truly not as difficult as you make it out to be in my humble opinion. You just need to have the motivation to want to do it. There’s a reason we implement new security features into locks every year, such as security pins, ball bearings to stop shimming, and blocking the actuators to negate bypassing, and that’s to stay ahead of the criminals trying to get into them.
Nice! Finally I understand how that tool is supposed to work. Thank you.
Out Of all of your cool intros, I like this one the best. Best intros I've seen on TH-cam. That little part at the beginning where the lock lab logo is displayed.
Great tool. I've never seen one like it I really didn't see the need for one because these cylinders are so easy to pick. Or drill out if need be. I'm sure a higher security cylinder would probably be to tough to get the bypass tool through. But I appreciate the creativity of this method. Great for the o'l knowledge bank. (FYI. I am a locksmith )
The "locking bar" ,as you call it, is the deadlatch bar. When the lock is in a door and installed correctly, that bar is pushed in to prevent shimming or loiding the latch. Bill, you exactly show that at 1:48 but you never have the bar pushed in after that.
If it is not pushed in, the latch is not deadlatched and it can be loided back to gain entry.
That's right but that's precisely the reason to use the bypass tool, it works just as the key, and as he shows it's possible to manipulate the latch
rallock67 this definitely comes into play of the gap between door and door frame is very large. The door may latch but if the deadlatch is not engaged properly you can still drag the latch back. This also occurs if the strike plate is not installed correctly call, a common problem with electric strikes
Ya but it helps to know what lock you are dealing w ,god bless internet lol
Looking for a good lock for my home, I was worried until 8:22 when you said a steel plate would stop a shim...but then you showed how to bypass that. Maybe I need one of those 18” plates.
BTW the cylinder shown in the video is a temporary zinc cylinder that comes with most aluminum frame doors. They are suppose to be replaced with a solid brass cylinder.
yes, it's a $2.00 contractor grade cylinder, which i really wouldn't want to even try to key alike.
Sadly, MANY people use those cylinders here in WV, and even the Ilco and General Lock equivalents have the hole in the back anyway, so it still works on most usual commercial glass storefront doors..
Router username and password: admin, admin...
You think this is bad security, look at u-change locks.
In Seattle these locks are typically only seen on storefront doors. I've only ever seen these in very rich people's homes. Aluminum and glass doors are very expensive!
*Bill* WE MISS YOU MAN! Come back to us!!! 😭
One little metal plate at the end of the key way will fix this vulnerability.
BosnianBill
The goddamn GOAT!
Hello bosnianbill another great video. This technique only works on doors that swing out. If the door swings in then the shimming will not work with the Souber shimming tool because of the rabbit of the door frame.
actually, the rabbit is spelled rabbet and it's more commonly referred to as a 'door stop'
i learn so much from ur videos
Nothing a little brazing on the back of the plug cannot stop :)
That works on american cores as well just have to touch the tip of the key with a file if there is too much material in the plug.
Seems like a simple solution for the lock manufacturer would be to seal the back of the chamber?
Multi lock have always made their cams sealed to prevent this .
It looks like you could do it yourself. Those 2 philips screws could be backed off a bit and I'm guessing a knock-out from an electric junction box would fit in that space.
Might be a little more effective to rig a wire in that big open space to trip an alarm if someone tried to pick it. I dont know why lock companies don't do that.
htomerif medeco, protec2 and other lock manufacturers block the back of the keyway. If you put objects between the back of cylinder and cam you will probably run into problems pulling the key out of the cylinder unless the object is larger than the cylinder. Then you may run into friction problems and it's hard to turn the key.
A1BASE then you just rake it open
some do
Thanks for the review Bill. I need to get these in my kit.
That sauber tool is awesome looking.
Thanks again Bill. You are the man.
How would you bypass a solenoid?
Looking at a lock type that will both need pins and an r.f interface. Only triggers the solenoid when all pins are depressed. So a bit like an ignition lock but better as an ignition lock would deactivate the onboard immobiliser with the wrong key face but correct r.f and vice versa.
Magnets
I've seen police using a steel carpenter's square with an angle cut into one of the sides as a replacement for that 40 dollar tool. Seems a lot cheaper and at least as effective.
Another great video Bill. Good on ya.
very clear video and loving the bypass tool !
Did I hear him correctly? It's a upvc Salber latch tool. Is this tool used when a latch protector is bolted to the of the door to protect against shimming of the Latch?
This is a great Teaching and technique video. I want to see more of these. Best Regards, BAG2
What was the name of the shim tool you use? The one you said you bought from Lockpick Canada? I am not able to find it, and not able to fully hear what you call it.
Would the fix to it be stiffer springs with the drawback being it would be harder to turn a key?
then there would be too much pressure on the latch, when the door closes and hits the strike or frame the latch wouldn't retract so the door can close fully. leaving your door open.
does anyone know if this would work on a Schlage L series? i know its similar with having a separate deadlatch but I wonder if this tool would work on one of them
when using bypass tool, you could push straight pick on top of the keyway to give better support and not slipping so easy
Interesting vid - as ever. Cheers Bill. Love your channel and site.
use the thin super micas as a mouse, they are great to work its way to the latch, it gives a nice smooth guide for a thick one to follow. just wish they would make them twice as long for leverage as there isnt much left to hold on to once you have got past everything.
Very good video. Thanks Mr. bosnianbill
In Australia at least, house front doors (and most room doors) almost always open inwards and the door frame wraps around the front of the door (so the door closes onto it).
It would be like having the lock barrel pointing out the other side (the same side as the rounded or angled side of the bolt is on) to what is in this video, with no direct line to slide a shim in.
I wonder if this method could be made to work here?
Amazingly clever system.
Isn't the locking bar redundant once you incorporate the latch?
Could u use an air-bag instead of a shim?
regarding bypassing, why wouldn't this and other cylinders be made with a blocking plate screwed onto the back of the core behind the actuator?
The better cylinders like Medeco do. Sometimes I think American cylinders are made to byüass. ;-)
If pushed in from,out side the door should not have a plate !(right?) if pulled shut it might , very cool tools I have never seen , this is going to be a new hobbie, nice and quiet w coffee, nice video I would love to see a selection of tools , and send a company that has good tool and kits anyone thanks
Keep pickin
you could also use a nice piece of wire ( I've used guitar strings to get passed the steel piece )
When installed properly, the locking bar is always depressed when the door is closed. The locking bar does not stick out when the door is closed as shown in this video.
Small teeth/catches such as the one that is meant to prevent the latch from operating are known as "pawls" (plural) Just for everyones edumification : ) Just the same as the "pawl" that prevents slip back on a gear driven winch.
Cool, Im glad to
Know
How to bypass locks, I want to break into a few places! Thats for the info… If i get caught, you are liable too
Could ya do a late 80's chevy door key lock.i lock my keys in my chev more than i feel comfortable sayin lol.i do carry a hide a key also but that has somehow found its way locked in the carmany times .ive gotten real good with a coat hanger but the door seals are starting to show the wear.and it always seems to happen at home
That is not how the deadlatch works: The "Locking bar" is resting against the frame when closed.
🤫
Exactly. When the door is open, the bar is out, which means the latch can retract.
@@KateGrayCode The deadlock bar is partially in, making it impossible to shim open. That's the whole point for a deadlatch.
Unless the frame is modified
Thank you Horseshoe Lock & Key. As a professional locksmith it drives me crazy that this guy and the Lock Picking Lawyer can't even get their terminology and pronunciations right. Sure they're good at picking locks, but come on .... if you're going to present yourself as a pro or an educator or any kind of expert at least educate yourself on correct terminology. It's a cylinder cam NOT a tailpiece and it's a deadltach pin NOT a locking bar. Also, in my experience the bad guy got in with an illegally obtained key or he just picked up a rock and broke the glass.
Is the 4700 series the vulnerable version?
so if you added a piece at the back of the keyway you could prevent someone using that bypass driver ? or are their 2 locks either side (i'e inside and outside)
(judging by the hole i gather their is)
what happened to the sign up for drawings on the website?
So, you could basically use this driver along side any sort of latch slipping tool to finish the job?? y'know music wire, shrum hook, stuff like that too.
I have watched a number of your videos I have a question though in a lot of the video you identify the lock which lets you know how to attack it. i can't see a lot of identifiers on some of these locks such as this one. Could you do a video on how to ID locks that don't have any markings? Thanks
Miss you !
always enjoy the videos.
Do you have a link for the tool you’d use to slip the latch when there’s a latch guard on the door? I’m having trouble locating it and would like to add it to my kit.
make one
How can you tell if a door is an adams rite lock? I didn't see any manufacturer's logo or emblem on the cylinder
Adams Rite 4900 Series.
Another great segment,what will they invent-make,next.....
Will this work on an adams rite that has a deadbolt instead of a dead latch?
Chad Aaronson no
Bill, you've got to tell us...
Who does these AMAZING opening sequences?
it seems different people donate them out of appreciation
Use a Schlage modular cylinder with AR cam # 20-013 or a Schlage I/C cylinder #20-062 with AR cam, as the back of these Cylinders are Not Open, don't forget to use a Keedex K-24 CYL GUARD RING as the he states, outside brunt force of turning the cylinder can happen
What if it's a flip bolt or a hook bolt?
possibly, depending on how good you are at pushing down a spring loaded spin-able barrel shape. would be at opposite side from bolt when in a locked state.
Is that piece bent after one use tho
Hey Bill, I just went to the Sparrows website & couldn't find any info on whether or not this will work with the Adams Rite deadbolt or swing Bolt lock.
Do you know if it will work on them ?
Also, when you refer to the part of the cylinder that does the actual unlocking on a mortise cylinder, please use the word cam. Not tailpiece. Common household deadbolts have a tailpiece.
Best to send your question to Sparrows direct. I don’t work for them.
Bosnianbill I know you don't work for them. I just thought you might know.
jim renderer
No , it will only work on the Adams Rite latch units
It does not have the strength to overcome the locking mechanism in the MS series bolts , nor was it designed to do so .
Always good information here.
hi how to pick shutter door central lock
Interesting. I'm sure you've seen before the LE only Adams bypass tools that work on all versions of adams commercial locks. The little hook bar thingy, I had the chance to play around with one and it's a really neat tool. Obviously they are restricted tools since they can open a great number of storefront doors, what I don't understand is why this tool is out there, but not the more effective one? Its kind of like these companies pick and choose how effective of a tool they release?
can u hook up a link to this tool , i havent heard of it
+Kyle Corey I wish I could but there are no pictures of it or references to it literally anywhere yet I held it and opened 3 different adams rite locks with it. Q tactical makes it but good luck getting access to their catalog. If you cannot prove you are LE/MIL with a need then no way. trust me I tried :)
I mean why wouldn't any tool be out there? security through obscurity is fake security. This hole should be plugged, its unconscionable to even sell these things calling them locks as is.
There is usually not enough room to wiggle that special pick in between the rear faces of both cams. The video shows an AR with only the one cylinder installed, but what about the thumb turn cylinder? Typically, these two cylinder’s cams are usually just a few mm apart. Dammit, now I gotta buy something ELSE from Sparrows, just to see if it really works ....
I would love to see your complete toolbox
Awesome. Would love to see more bypass, shimming and shove it tool videos.
Correct me if I am wrong but why not just pick the lock?
how long does it usually take to get things from sparrows I ordered some stuff a while ago and have still not received it and they do not have a hotline that you can call
send them an email its on there webpage on the about us or contact . they always respond
I live on the East Coast and it can take anywhere from 7-14 days, depending on customs. If it gets caught up in Canadian customs, it can take even longer.
Thank you I contacted them via email and their customer service is actually excellent they email me back in less than 10 minutes after I emailed them but they made a mistake and shipped my package to the wrong address
I love the channel for a long time but only now came across this video, which is somewhat incorrect, the deadlatch will be against a metal sheet and not in the hole of the frame. It's used to prevent shiming. The bypass part is probably accurate but it's a huge flaw that part.
how big are my chances to meet this in europe?
Hi Bill
The Sauber (did I spell that right?) UPVC tool:
Is it actually made of UPVC? It looks like it's made of metal.
How do you get it round the metal plate which covers the edge of the door? You didn't demonstrate this.
4:55 i woud rather cut a key blank down so that it fills the rest of the keyway. Rather than bend the tool.
does this work on the new adams rite latches
Where in Canada are you ?
I'm still confused. What kind of lock does this technique work on...only the one in this video or other brands too?
It only works on the Adams-Rite series of locks.
actually, there are lots of adams rite clones, from the deadlatch to hook bolt to regular bolt type.
bosnianbill
Got it thanks for the response!
that lock bar when the door is closed is pushed in it does not go in a hole. its so you cant just shim the latch
you have to use the bypass tool first to disengage the dead latch bar. the video info is still accurate
Where the hag do these cool lock-lab intros come from?!
I guess an open backplate on the back of the lock cylinder was cheaper to manufacture than a closed one that would prevent 'tools' to get past the keyway and manipulate the inner workings of the lock.
Great video Bill :D
Couldn't you use the lock itself after defeating the bar at the bottom??
Very interesting, but (and I am a beginner here) are you not working from both sides of the lock at once in this video? Which would be impossible if the door is shut. Would that make much difference to the procedure eg tools getting in the way of one another? Love your videos. VERY interesting.
He only turns it around to show you the mechanism and how things are working, when he shows how to actually do it all actions are performed from the front.
Great video Bill!
I wonder if you know if this wonderful tool will work on a A&R MS1850 style deadlock as well? A lot of our customers have these type, and have the cam fall off the back, so I'm looking for a quicker way to get in and get the job over with.
From what I see, it should, but I'm wondering what you think on it?
Thanks.
E
Not sure, you'd get a better answer by contacting the manufacturer. I'm sure they've tested the tool on various models and can answer your question.
Thanks.
I dropped an email to Sparrows, so hopefully I hear something back. It really looks like it should be perfect, but I want to know for sure before pulling the trigger.
Thanks Again
so what if there's a wooden cover on the latch?
You just rip it off >:3
Fire
Good VID. I prefer the picking vids over the bypass vids but this one was very well done. Would this still be in the realm of a locksmith or did we blur the lines a bit?
Looks like a KA-BAR blade. I carry a TDI Tanto daily.
locksmith: can't pick it , drill it and sell you a new one cause hey. now this one's broke 😉
sparrow did not invent these to answer your question, they have been around for a decade+ and yes locksmiths utilize them
very cool! Thanks for the info Bill! Hey, speaking of working on locks that are actually installed in doors, do you have any tips for picking a deadbolt where the bolt itself is bound up on the door jamb so that it requires really heavy pressure on the tension tool? Obviously, push the door in or pull it out to try to reduce the binding, butt if that is still not doing the trick, is there anything else that might help?
That shouldn't matter, you should be able to pick it like normal but once it's picked then the tension will get tight once you try to turn it all the way. My advise is to use tok and bok once it's picked and then turn it.
killerpicking Really? So basically the tailpiece won't engage until after the lock is picked? I could swear it was giving me trouble while I was picking it but that does make sense. Maybe it was all in my head...
use a strong tension wrench and giver;i had the same problem a bit ago
assuming you have the authority to be picking the lock on said door, once opened, you could do a bandaid approach and grind out the strike plate hole. or you could do it right and fix the problem, whether replacing the worn hinges to fix a sagging door, or replacing the door itself if it's warped...
+Logic Bob the cam engages with pressure yes, but it shouldn't be touching anything in the door yet until fully picked. You can watch this video again and you can see that the tail piece touches nothing until it reaches the bottom to catch on the locking mechanism. Most if not all deadbolts work the same way.
can you put links to the tools you use in your videos?
It is in the description and on the website. lock-lab.com/where-to-buy-stuff/
Here, I'll make it easy for you:
www.sparrowslockpicks.com
www.lockpickcanada.com
It seems that they can prevent the bypass had they made a small plate over near the screws..or is that just me.
why there isn't a single video of door picking with slim jim?
I agree I have it and don't know how to use it
www.uer.ca/forum_showthread.asp?fid=1&threadid=121789
I can make a video if you really want
Yes please. Make the video on slim jim. This "how bypass tools works" video are very interesting.
+Rikka i would really appreciate that, just to be clear, all i can find is videos where people opens car doors with really long slim jims but i haven't found any videos where someone opens doors or gates with short ones, i have noticed that the locking bars in newer doorlocks locks in place when you lock the door and thats why you can't jim some of them.
yeah I can do it tomorrow or some shit, I'll try and remember
basically its designed to lock the latch from being shimed. if that lock bar was depressed it might be harder to get the latch to move
the locking bar, or dead latch, is always depressed to prevent the latch from being shimmed, the bypass tool disengaged the dead latch as the key would allowing you to open the latch or at least shim it
Knowing this , why wont they put a plate on the back of the key way?
great information here!
Couldn't you just pick the mortise cylinder, and then use a small flat head screw driver (or stiff tension tool) to turn the lock?
syncronisity1 he always tries to bypass first
Every brand of locks needs its own set of specific tools. How many thousands of different tools do you have?
How, pray tell, did you arrive at that conclusion?
only certain locks require specialized tools. for the most part, you only need a handful of tools to get into common locks.
Ok, so by that logic, the screw drivers, or picks that I use for schlage locks can't be used on yale, or sargent, or kwikset... That makes no sense...
1st off, there is not 500 million brands of tires, 2nd: If the 2 vehicles are the same make and model, then they will use the same type of tires.
DJRap999 there's not 500million brands of tires and yes many cars use the same tires
Good job