Recently had an issue with my '47 Ford....350 crate engine. Running down the highway in traffic, complete and total shutdown. VERY carefully maneuvered through traffic to the shoulder. Due to being distracted by watching the traffic, I couldn't observe symptoms very carefully. Over the next few weeks, I tinkered on it, while trying to remember my days wrenching on the trucks for a company I used to work for. Long story short, I recalled that the ignition on a GM runs through the starter...further investigation revealed a wire splice that was done VERY poorly, and it was losing connection on the circuit after running a bit due to vibration. FINALLY found the problem, redid the splice properly - problem solved.
That fuel filter could very well have caused it to stop running. Debris finally builds to the point it stops the fuel flow. Then when it stops running, the debris settles out, allowing it to run again. Great video!
When I replaced the lines on my '98 Suburban, I purchased a replacement kit from Gas Tank Renu, they are nylon but rated to 900PSI, came pre-made with all fittings attached and included a new fuel filter. Fit great even in the original chassis clips. And was a great price too.
hey Ray as an ohio mechanic that does a lot of fuel and brake lines, the way to go on fuel and evap is nylon tubing, just get a filter that has the barbs for nylon, go from the pump to the fuel rail, it will take a lot less time than making steel lines, brake lines the copper/nickel line is easy to bend and flare and will never rust
One plus to the current car market where everything cost so much to buy... we're back to fixing broken autos more than just scrapping them to get new ones.
If the owner sold the 4 wheeler, he still wouldn’t have enough money to fix all the things wrong with that POS. You’re a good man for even looking at it.
Honestly, this feels so stereotypically Ohio to me at this point. Edit: the amount of rust you see on cars from there is mind-boggling. I drove though there during a snowstorm and the interstate was DRY from how much salt they threw down.
That purple starter wire is most likely fine. The issue lies in the main harness going in to the fusebox, particularly with the ground wire for the starter relay. I fix a lot of those by simply running a new ground wire from a spot just forward of the computer. Pull the fusebox, and attach a new wire as close to the relay as possible. Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless. o7
My bets are on the loose wire at batt was the issue BUT that leaking fuel line is a no run/no start/lotsa fire issue waiting to happen. Great catch. And the push button start on a 90’s Chevy is a great theft deterrent…no one would think to look for one. 😂
This, or a "secret" switch to disable the Start and/or Ignition circuits. An old hot-rodder's trick. There has been a rash of truck thefts here in Dallas, and I've recommended it left and right.
@@walterwhite2270 I agree the quad is probably worth more BUT one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With that in mind, this truck is probably worth more than the quad since it is a means to end when it comes to transportation.
I appreciate you looking out for Troy there Mr Ray "If things go south, don't try to save it just get out of the way". Shows you care about your employees more than the cost of a broken 4-wheeler! Good bosses don't come by too often and you're one of them :)
That fuel filter on the frame rail was always plugging on two of my 97 Tahoes. It is an extremely fine filter. The engines would idle fine, but conk out at high speed and heavy load. I took to carrying a spare filter with me.
Man, that poor old truck has all the problems I had with my 89, 91, 98 and 99 trucks all had together. You must have a special place in your heart for old workhorse Chevy trucks.
Yes Ray, you will be replacing the fuel and brake lines on that truck. No matter which lines you need to replace the others WILL start leaking. I'm in Michigan just over the Ohio border and have replaced them on many vehicles. Found replacement line kits at the local Auto Value store(s). Had to order them, but they have them complete from tank to engine. To me, pump looked original. I would replace it myself, but that is just me. Fuel filter has never been changed.
I'm going to guess a bump loosened the battery connection *and* a flake of rust that momentarily blocked fuel flow causing an engine stumble that dropped alternator output just enough to cause a stall/failure to restart - normally the battery would have held the voltage up during the stumble but a "perfect storm" of multiple issues combined in a one-in-a-million occurance...
I had a '68 Malibu SS Convertible for over 40 years. Occasionally had starter issues until I moved the trans stick (It looked like a stirrup rather than a stick). One night I saw a spark and it was coming from the cable. engine rebuilder forgot the Block to Frame ground strap. I had wondered why the trans selector always felt hot. Got too old to get out and get under. Sold a $2400 car for $30000. Kept it showroom pretty. 4 bolt main small block 327 bored to 350, Fuelie heads and a Turbo Slide. Never kew why that engine was in the car, bought it new, said 327 on the sticker. Single exhaust and a Power Slide. No wonder Mom always lit up the tires.
Excellent job, Ray. I don't like it when the customer leaves you this mysterious issue with limited information to diagnose accurately with history information.
I’m thinking with the pitchfork and dog food the owner has cattle or sheep , and the quad is his field work vehicle not just a toy . The starter wire is a farm work around . Possibly a clogged filter and maybe the pin hole allows an air bubble in the line while driving and between the two it caused the shut down . Yep that is a stretch . Stay safe , have fun .
For being a truck from Ohio, plus the age, the undercarriage looks to be in pretty good condition for the most part! Funny four-wheeler antics! LOL. Thanks for the video, Ray! I love these old trucks. These old girls have great age and are easy to find parts for!
the bracket makes for a nice, neat factory installation when the vehicle is new.... but as a vehicle ages it harbors road salt (if driven in the salt). usually the lines fail FIRST at the retaining bracket
I had a 1997 GMC 6 cylinder and it would stop running one time on the freeway which could have gotten me killed. I called my Genius Brother in law and he told me to look at the back of the distributer housing where I found a white clip connecter with red and white wires all described exactly by him. He said that the clip was sometimes not pushed in all the way, I pushed it and heard a click, that was it and it never failed again. like I said the guy is a automotive genius , he trains mechanics.
RAY I have been riding atv's and dirt bikes for 30 years and not once have i ever seen someone take off a tailgate to unload a quad lol. and that poor truck. it always hurts my soul to see an OBS chevy/gmc neglected like that, they are the best trucks ever built. If you end up doing brake lines you might suggest to the customer to swap out the master cylinder to a newer model. The braking difference is night and day and its a cheap direct swap upgrade.
Yep those fuel filters are notorious for plugging up...I was replacing those fuel filters every 6 months...because filters are cheaper than the fuel pump
Definitely replace that fuel filter and lines ASAP no questions asked and the fuel pump electrical connector and ground are probably corroded as well given intermittent opens in the fuel pump circuit when evre the vehicle has run for a while. Corrosion can creates more resistance in the line causing more heat which can mean kaboom.
The Chevy engine starts and sounds great. I'm envious! I wished that engine was in my Jeep, and the Jeep's underpowered, oil leaking, low mileage POS 3.8 V6 was in the scrap yard.
Ray, Out of all the trucks I’ve owned my ‘98 Chevy 1500 was my favorite. Not too many problems and pretty easy to work on when it did have any issues. This 3/4 ton sounds like it’s running pretty well. Hopefully you’ll be able to find the parts and get the go ahead from the owner to make the repairs. Great Ohio license plate, push button start mod! Blessings from Oklahoma
I have a 98 Chevy Silverado Z71-4x4 that still looks new, several years ago installed a New 350 Engine, yes it is easy to work on compared to newer vehicles and it being the last of the square body Chevy's , its value has held pretty good.
Ray, That type of starter push button will allow it to start regardless of the transmission gearshift selection. Since they went directly to the starter solenoid they have bypassed all the safeties such as the neutral switch and mechanical lockouts of the gearshift /ignition mechanical lockout. Correct?
I would recommend dropping the tank, fix all them lines, since tank will be down replace the fuel pump. Buy the fuel line kit, you can cut the steel line, and fitting and install new rubber tubing, or just use the kit, and make all new hoses,
Thanks for the idea cause my key don't make it turn over either! I had to run a wire from the starter to the battery and create a connection. The button is a good idea!
For fuel lines, check Dorman. They make some rubber/steel sheathed lines to replace rusted ones. Just did it on my 07 TrailBlazer. Better than using pre-fab hard lines or fabbing your own. For brake lines, NiCop lines would work well here. If you have to fab fuel lines, this would work too.
if they plan on driving it to the grave, put nicopp on for all the lines, fuel, brake, trans, oil cooler. they do make it in all sizes, but it may be hard to source locally/timely.
@@andrewdonohue1853 except, the nylon lines dislike heat, bad routing and they'll melt through or with age get brittle and fracture. nothing like fuel spraying all over a hot engine compartment and exhaust(fire and burnt to the ground)
@@throttlebottle5906 my 03 bonneville SSEi had nylon lines under hood going to steel lines under the car. i replaced the entire thing with nylon and i attached them to the existing fuel lines. it is nowhere near the exhaust or anything hot. i did it 3 years ago and so far im pleased with my repair.
@@throttlebottle5906 Why, though? A decent flaring tool is about $60 and you can purchase coated steal brake lines fairly cheaply here in Germany. Copper brake lines won't pass inspection here, and the steel stuff is easy enough to work with. Cut, flair, use flair couplers and bleed the brakes.
I did have a mystery case decades ago with a presumed fuel issue ( It didn't stall but acted like it wanted to). I looked for two days as well since I had good pressure at idle. I decided to put the tank under a little pressure with an air hose and the lines where fuel of pin holes. My only conclusion was that it was under load, and it was catching some air, causing it to act like it was the fuel pump. I'm sure your on the right track!
try new york, biggest piles of rusted out garbage in the country. i use copious amounts of fluid film, which really seems to work. the thing is most people do nothing, and you end up with a piece of garbage in no time.
I actually had the plugged fuel filter. This was in late 70's, an Army M880 dodge pickup. since parts take time to get in Army, we reversed the filter, flushed it a little. The gas that came out was deep red. Worked good enough until we got a new filter. Would start and idle, would not run any faster.
Had Chevy van 1998 5.7 that would just die driving down the road, what I found in the end was the PCM mounted to left inner fender , the bolts had corroded and it opened the computer around a1/8 inch, the circuit board was green and crusty. I took it apart , cleaned it up, put a silicone sealant and new bolts and nuts. Van ran find 2 yrs, then started doing the same thing, I replaced pcm with new one no problems for 4yrs, sold the van that guy drove it for a couple of years got in wreck ended up in salvage yard. Still would run, body totaled
It isn't throttle body injected. It has a multiport spider pump under the intake. Also, the union in the brake line beside the gas tank is original. You can get every part to that truck from autozone or the equivalent. Autonzone even stocks delco parts
I had a friend’s car to diagnose for “died when running on the road”. Many years ago. Turned out to be a partially blocked breather in the tank. Admitted enough air at tick-over, but at high speed the used fuel leaving the tank created a partial vacuum in the tank and stopped the engine due to fuel starvation. Finally diagnosed when, having recreated the problem on the road, we opened the tank filler cap and noted the noise of air entering the tank. Drove home with the filler cap off.
I love those older Chevys and GMCs but I will say from experience the crank sensor will cause the same symptoms as a bad fuel pump on that particular unit and with the crank sensor it can be a very slight or intermittent failure
@@andrewdonohue1853 Nope. When the pulses from the crank sensor go away, the ignition module stops the spark and fuel pump before the ECM knows there is a problem. Been there done that on an'05 LeSabre with the 3800 in it. Took a new ignition harness to fix the bad connector at the crank sensor.
14 minutes in, I'm thinking that it idles fine but maybe it can't get up to highway speed due to lack of fuel at that speed. A trip around the block (over the bridge/overpass) could've been tried. OK, on with the rest of the video. Oh, I forgot, no brakes!! Best not take it out on the highway!
Yes! Interesting video! I really hope they ok those brakes line repairs and of course the fuel line repair cuz they are all safety related and needed...
Back in the day, my girlfriend would just use a steak knife with a wooden handle and would ground the battery to the frame, started everytime! 😂 The silly things ya do when you're 18...
@@jilbertb yeah the thing is that all Chevy truck have issues with the body grounds and the break lines that run on the frame along with the fuel line. When I replaced all of mine I ran them through a rubber hose . Never had an issue after that.then I bought three cases of under coating and sprayed the entire undercarriage of the truck.
I'd be half tempted to part that truck out at this point. When rust starts, there's no stopping. I'd hate to see the rust under that be liner. That being said, might get another 5 years out of it. Tough call IMHO.
if you cant get a replacement fuel line kit, dorman makes a slick kit that uses pretty readily available nylon fuel line and kit comes with a decent press tool and all the quick connects etc. I dont remember the number but i think it was called "professional nylon fuel line repair kit". Its really handy for older clunkers like this-we used to use it a lot up here in the rust belt-you can fab up a new line pretty easily
All that water in the bed, i almost would think it caust some electrical issue while driving, meaning that the fuellines and brakelines are not the only ones that bad... he eather drove it in the rain, or he pressurewashed it and caust some shortbrakes while driving after it........which might explain the relais laying arround as something typical........good vid nice lift and all......
I had a 1969 Pacific NW Model, That had been neglected. So I checked the nipple and She fired right up. Runs Great, Plenty of Power and very comfortable to ride
Come on Ray. It had a loose battery cable. That would have caused it to stall...hit a bump the connection gets loose, can't start. You tightened it down at the beginning, so of course it is running now. As a test, you should have loosened the battery cable again and see if that caused the shorting.
Ohio is great, best location (other than Florida) in the nation. Minimal crazy destructive Demoncrats, mild non tornado/hurricane weather and a Great Lake. Ok, the winters suck.
Definitely needs fuel filter, fuel and brake lines-before they pop. I worked on a no start 91 chevy truck which had no fuel pump or spark. Turns out the distributor rotor was bad, which shuts down everything else. You might check the dist cap and rotor. Same thing later on a 98 Bravada, didn't need a fuel pump. But that one didn't prime until cranked.
It's a Chevy 350, it won't die. Just needs an occasional nap. Just like my X code ford Tempo. Only time it ever died was when it was hit by lightning... Just needed a new antenna, radio, and ignition coil.
it's structurally sound actually. everything that's been hacked can easily be fixed, and cheaply. the engine sounds very healthy. i say fix it. new pickups are stupid expensive and overly complicated. these trucks are actually pretty decent vehicles.
Watching Watch Wes Work on "crusties" where he lives, gives me some perspective on this truck. It is actually pretty clean for a salt country truck. It has some original thinking with regards to repairs. The original thinking repairs could actually be the problem.
There's an awful lot of little things left broken or hacked together. Seems a shame when proper repairs aren't all that hard. But the demon rust is knocking on the door. Have to see if this one can be saved. Also very interesting to me personally, as I have a 98 Burb, so it's great to get a tour of where some little things are hiding.
Saying a shame is being nice. More like moron mods. Made by morons. I’d let them fix their own pile of shit. U want to be Joe genius u fix it ahole id say. Ray is being too generous
5 minutes in and it all became clear. Someone completely trashed the wiring and the brakes on this truck just to mess with your mind - and it is also a test from the truck gods.
at 28:30 the brake line to rear has already been replaced, it's seen in middle of screen fabricobbled and dangling wildly past the camera. lol now as for the fuel, return and vent lines, filter, they're smoked and likely tank module is about rust powder. usually you can cut and compression fitting the "FUEL" lines up near the front/engine and replace from there back. the trucks are known to have heat related ignition dropout issues. good luck.
The brake lines definitely need to be replaced that's safety hazard.and most definitely the feul lines needs replaced along all the flex lines and filter 👍
Ray, now that's its running because you found the alternate ignition I truly think the battery cable you fixed killed it and allowed it to not restart, I would try to recreate that by running the truck and backing the nut off a turn or so and wiggle the wires, your other though about the fuel pump was very true, however that's a very strong fuel pump, typically when the jostling of a tow I've only seen about 50% of the pressure compared to what you have and ultimately still needing a pump in a short period of time, hope this helps, and good luck, great job and happy weekend to you
I think while under a heavy load, the broken fuel line would suck in air and kill the engine for the fuel lines. You’re probably going to have to make them yourself.
We been using nylon fuel lines for years now with no leaks or problems, they are a time saver, and make all the push lock fittings and bubble flare fittings. Saves stocking lines for multiple vehicles and no rust.
Not a mechanic so I admit I am talking from ignorance here. That leaking fuel line could not only leak fuel but also suck in air (or water) if there is any variation in fuel pressure. There is now a bubble in the fuel line. As the truck runs it gets hot under there. Especially on a long trip from Ohio. The air expands enough to block the fuel line and truck stalls. Truck now remains idle and cools down. The air bubble collapses and now fuel can now flow. So I support your decision to replace the fuel lines.
Bless you for even touching this, most shops wouldn't. This truck is falling apart and too many band-aids holding it together. You will end up with a headache when it returns and customer wants it fixed again under the guarantee.
Everything you looked at or touched was broken. lol It is 25.5 years old but still... It took wayyyy longer to run that starter trigger wire, fab a switch plate, and install the switch than it would have to pull the steering wheel and replace the ignition switch. 😅 Shops looking great Ray!!! I'm happy for you and wish you continued growth and success.
Now we all know you were like Master Troy, jump in there n if you start it first time I'll give you 50 bucks 😂 that PTS buttons something I've never seen before lol
first comment that made sense, these trucks were actually really decent and this truck isnt completely shot. new pickup trucks are hardly worth what manufactures are charging. older trucks are worth saving and keeping around. proper care and de-hacking this truck will run with the best of them.
check inside of rubber fuel lines they can dissolve or have chunks let loose due to ethanol in fuel. Or collaps under loads. We had that happen to our old army trucks.
Is it sucking air in to the fuel lines? Is it a pressurised return line? And yes that filter is from the Apollo mission. And I think those bolts on the tank are going to irritate you lol.
word of advise from someone from the north, never ever ever ever use the parking brake unless it is a manual. usually they are rusted out and break so easy we delete them cause it is easier than replacing them every other year.
I had to do a gas line replacement last year on a Caddy that used to be an Ohio car. Same thing, brakes and gas line. I went with nickel copper for the gas line. It's a whole lot easier to work with. I could find pre-made gas line though it was crazy expensive. No problems since. Nasty job though.
Did anyone else noticed the nut cooler vent? One of the best things man ever did when making trucks.
Yea, women hate them. Gives them chapped lips. 🤣
@@craigquann HA!! You win the internet with that comment!🍻
Ball Chiller
@superduty4556 yes sir!
Recently had an issue with my '47 Ford....350 crate engine. Running down the highway in traffic, complete and total shutdown. VERY carefully maneuvered through traffic to the shoulder. Due to being distracted by watching the traffic, I couldn't observe symptoms very carefully. Over the next few weeks, I tinkered on it, while trying to remember my days wrenching on the trucks for a company I used to work for. Long story short, I recalled that the ignition on a GM runs through the starter...further investigation revealed a wire splice that was done VERY poorly, and it was losing connection on the circuit after running a bit due to vibration. FINALLY found the problem, redid the splice properly - problem solved.
I thought it might have been the Ford rejecting the Chevy transplant!
What’s happening with the Monte Carlo with the 5.3 V8.
He may have the starter fixed like that to prevent someone from trying to steal it when he's got it parked off on the 4 wheeler......never know.
Frankenstein truck from battery to the starter Switch
That fuel filter could very well have caused it to stop running. Debris finally builds to the point it stops the fuel flow. Then when it stops running, the debris settles out, allowing it to run again. Great video!
I think some of that fuel line rust might have flaked off and temporarily plugged the filter.
When I replaced the lines on my '98 Suburban, I purchased a replacement kit from Gas Tank Renu, they are nylon but rated to 900PSI, came pre-made with all fittings attached and included a new fuel filter. Fit great even in the original chassis clips. And was a great price too.
hey Ray as an ohio mechanic that does a lot of fuel and brake lines, the way to go on fuel and evap is nylon tubing, just get a filter that has the barbs for nylon, go from the pump to the fuel rail, it will take a lot less time than making steel lines, brake lines the copper/nickel line is easy to bend and flare and will never rust
One plus to the current car market where everything cost so much to buy... we're back to fixing broken autos more than just scrapping them to get new ones.
If the owner sold the 4 wheeler, he still wouldn’t have enough money to fix all the things wrong with that POS. You’re a good man for even looking at it.
Truck has seen better days, definitely not safe to be on the road!
Honestly, this feels so stereotypically Ohio to me at this point. Edit: the amount of rust you see on cars from there is mind-boggling. I drove though there during a snowstorm and the interstate was DRY from how much salt they threw down.
Shut up. He's getting paid.
When that brake pedal came at me I thought I was in a 3d movie. 😂
I thought, "*POW!* Right 'n the kisser!" 💥😆
Probs what the owner sees every time he uses the brake too😂
That purple starter wire is most likely fine. The issue lies in the main harness going in to the fusebox, particularly with the ground wire for the starter relay. I fix a lot of those by simply running a new ground wire from a spot just forward of the computer. Pull the fusebox, and attach a new wire as close to the relay as possible.
Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless. o7
Had similar symptoms, was fuel filter. Detritus would settle when vehicle not in use. When running would stir up until blocked again.
My bets are on the loose wire at batt was the issue BUT that leaking fuel line is a no run/no start/lotsa fire issue waiting to happen. Great catch.
And the push button start on a 90’s Chevy is a great theft deterrent…no one would think to look for one. 😂
theft?
to prevent it from being scrapped?
This, or a "secret" switch to disable the Start and/or Ignition circuits. An old hot-rodder's trick. There has been a rash of truck thefts here in Dallas, and I've recommended it left and right.
Who would want to steal that piece of crap...the 4 wheeler in the back is worth more.....
@@walterwhite2270 I agree the quad is probably worth more BUT one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With that in mind, this truck is probably worth more than the quad since it is a means to end when it comes to transportation.
It's the dist cap causing it mine and my friends both 5.7 silverados done same thing till we changed it.
I appreciate you looking out for Troy there Mr Ray "If things go south, don't try to save it just get out of the way". Shows you care about your employees more than the cost of a broken 4-wheeler! Good bosses don't come by too often and you're one of them :)
That fuel filter on the frame rail was always plugging on two of my 97 Tahoes. It is an extremely fine filter. The engines would idle fine, but conk out at high speed and heavy load. I took to carrying a spare filter with me.
Man, that poor old truck has all the problems I had with my 89, 91, 98 and 99 trucks all had together. You must have a special place in your heart for old workhorse Chevy trucks.
That looks like something my brother in law would do to “prevent “ anyone else from using a vehicle 😅
Yes Ray, you will be replacing the fuel and brake lines on that truck. No matter which lines you need to replace the others WILL start leaking. I'm in Michigan just over the Ohio border and have replaced them on many vehicles.
Found replacement line kits at the local Auto Value store(s). Had to order them, but they have them complete from tank to engine.
To me, pump looked original. I would replace it myself, but that is just me. Fuel filter has never been changed.
Amazing how some people can drive a vehicle in such condition with wires dangling near the brake and gas pedals🤨
I think it was an attempt to get it running.
I'm going to guess a bump loosened the battery connection *and* a flake of rust that momentarily blocked fuel flow causing an engine stumble that dropped alternator output just enough to cause a stall/failure to restart - normally the battery would have held the voltage up during the stumble but a "perfect storm" of multiple issues combined in a one-in-a-million occurance...
"Oh nooo, i broke more things than i fixed" had me rollin
And don't forget negative terminal to body ground, and engine to body ground, just as important as tight clamps
I had a '68 Malibu SS Convertible for over 40 years. Occasionally had starter issues until I moved the trans stick (It looked like a stirrup rather than a stick). One night I saw a spark and it was coming from the cable. engine rebuilder forgot the Block to Frame ground strap. I had wondered why the trans selector always felt hot.
Got too old to get out and get under. Sold a $2400 car for $30000. Kept it showroom pretty. 4 bolt main small block 327 bored to 350, Fuelie heads and a Turbo Slide. Never kew why that engine was in the car, bought it new, said 327 on the sticker. Single exhaust and a Power Slide. No wonder Mom always lit up the tires.
Excellent job, Ray. I don't like it when the customer leaves you this mysterious issue with limited information to diagnose accurately with history information.
I’m thinking with the pitchfork and dog food the owner has cattle or sheep , and the quad is his field work vehicle not just a toy . The starter wire is a farm work around . Possibly a clogged filter and maybe the pin hole allows an air bubble in the line while driving and between the two it caused the shut down . Yep that is a stretch . Stay safe , have fun .
For being a truck from Ohio, plus the age, the undercarriage looks to be in pretty good condition for the most part! Funny four-wheeler antics! LOL. Thanks for the video, Ray! I love these old trucks. These old girls have great age and are easy to find parts for!
the bracket makes for a nice, neat factory installation when the vehicle is new.... but as a vehicle ages it harbors road salt (if driven in the salt). usually the lines fail FIRST at the retaining bracket
Removing the quad just made the truck 90% lower in value.
I had a 1997 GMC 6 cylinder and it would stop running one time on the freeway which could have gotten me killed. I called my Genius Brother in law and he told me to look at the back of the distributer housing where I found a white clip connecter with red and white wires all described exactly by him. He said that the clip was sometimes not pushed in all the way, I pushed it and heard a click, that was it and it never failed again. like I said the guy is a automotive genius , he trains mechanics.
RAY I have been riding atv's and dirt bikes for 30 years and not once have i ever seen someone take off a tailgate to unload a quad lol. and that poor truck. it always hurts my soul to see an OBS chevy/gmc neglected like that, they are the best trucks ever built. If you end up doing brake lines you might suggest to the customer to swap out the master cylinder to a newer model. The braking difference is night and day and its a cheap direct swap upgrade.
Watched the fuel gauge go NUTS when you first started and shutdown the truck… maybe a sign!
Yep those fuel filters are notorious for plugging up...I was replacing those fuel filters every 6 months...because filters are cheaper than the fuel pump
Definitely replace that fuel filter and lines ASAP no questions asked and the fuel pump electrical connector and ground are probably corroded as well given intermittent opens in the fuel pump circuit when evre the vehicle has run for a while. Corrosion can creates more resistance in the line causing more heat which can mean kaboom.
I thoroughly enjoy these 'basket cases' having owned and operated(?) them-out of necessity.
You seem to have a special challenge when it is apparent that the owner or somebody close to the owner has worked on the vehicle.
The Chevy engine starts and sounds great. I'm envious! I wished that engine was in my Jeep, and the Jeep's underpowered, oil leaking, low mileage POS 3.8 V6 was in the scrap yard.
Anybody who buys a Jeep with a minivan motor knows it’s not gonna have a lot of power😂 Get a real Jeep
Ray,
Out of all the trucks I’ve owned my ‘98 Chevy 1500 was my favorite.
Not too many problems and pretty easy to work on when it did have any issues.
This 3/4 ton sounds like it’s running pretty well.
Hopefully you’ll be able to find the parts and get the go ahead from the owner to make the repairs.
Great Ohio license plate, push button start mod!
Blessings from Oklahoma
One of the most normal thing in Ohio ☠️😂
My relative here in Wisconsin has one of those, a 95 with a stick shift. Works well too!
I have a 98 Chevy Silverado Z71-4x4 that still looks new, several years ago installed a New 350 Engine, yes it is easy to work on compared to newer vehicles and it being the last of the square body Chevy's , its value has held pretty good.
Yep, scabbed on starter buttons aren't a rare sight in Oklahoma!
outstanding ray love the content please put troy in more videos but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day
Hi Ray. I had a 95 GMC half ton. They won’t run without a battery. The battery post was probably your only problem. Love your channel.
I was thinking it was the battery seen as those terminals were so loose. All it needed was a bump in the rd for it to disconnect
@@Tennyson_W05 Same, I would try loosening that terminal again to where it was, & seeing if the fault comes back.
@@NemoConsequentae my thoughts exactly. Thought Ray might have done that when he said he realised that it was a push button start
Yup definitely the loose positive wire was the issue.
Ray, That type of starter push button will allow it to start regardless of the transmission gearshift selection. Since they went directly to the starter solenoid they have bypassed all the safeties such as the neutral switch and mechanical lockouts of the gearshift /ignition mechanical lockout. Correct?
Yes. Not the smartest idea, but it works. That's this trucks theme lol
I would recommend dropping the tank, fix all them lines, since tank will be down replace the fuel pump. Buy the fuel line kit, you can cut the steel line, and fitting and install new rubber tubing, or just use the kit, and make all new hoses,
After changing bedliner fluid you can make your own gasket (if not available at GM ) with the "Right Stuff" ....
That would just make the bed rust out quicker.
At the age of that truck the fuel pump issue is a matter of when, not if.
Thanks for the idea cause my key don't make it turn over either! I had to run a wire from the starter to the battery and create a connection. The button is a good idea!
That's why there's a 4 wheeler in the back . You are never stranded .
It's also worth more than the Truck, LMAO.
For fuel lines, check Dorman. They make some rubber/steel sheathed lines to replace rusted ones. Just did it on my 07 TrailBlazer. Better than using pre-fab hard lines or fabbing your own. For brake lines, NiCop lines would work well here. If you have to fab fuel lines, this would work too.
if they plan on driving it to the grave, put nicopp on for all the lines, fuel, brake, trans, oil cooler. they do make it in all sizes, but it may be hard to source locally/timely.
i use nylon lines, they are made FOR fuel injection, they are a breeze to install and never rust
@@andrewdonohue1853 except, the nylon lines dislike heat, bad routing and they'll melt through or with age get brittle and fracture. nothing like fuel spraying all over a hot engine compartment and exhaust(fire and burnt to the ground)
@@throttlebottle5906 my 03 bonneville SSEi had nylon lines under hood going to steel lines under the car. i replaced the entire thing with nylon and i attached them to the existing fuel lines. it is nowhere near the exhaust or anything hot. i did it 3 years ago and so far im pleased with my repair.
@@throttlebottle5906 Why, though? A decent flaring tool is about $60 and you can purchase coated steal brake lines fairly cheaply here in Germany. Copper brake lines won't pass inspection here, and the steel stuff is easy enough to work with. Cut, flair, use flair couplers and bleed the brakes.
I did have a mystery case decades ago with a presumed fuel issue ( It didn't stall but acted like it wanted to). I looked for two days as well since I had good pressure at idle. I decided to put the tank under a little pressure with an air hose and the lines where fuel of pin holes. My only conclusion was that it was under load, and it was catching some air, causing it to act like it was the fuel pump. I'm sure your on the right track!
An engine driven pump (decades ago) would be sucking air in through those pinholes.
Working on a Vehicle from Ohio must be really scary, anything can happen anytime😟
Most normal thing in Ohio
@@justindaniels17 If i ever go to the USA i think twice about going to OHIO 😅
@@ImfromAustria 😂😂
Don't I know it!
try new york, biggest piles of rusted out garbage in the country. i use copious amounts of fluid film, which really seems to work. the thing is most people do nothing, and you end up with a piece of garbage in no time.
I actually had the plugged fuel filter. This was in late 70's, an Army M880 dodge pickup. since parts take time to get in Army, we reversed the filter, flushed it a little. The gas that came out was deep red. Worked good enough until we got a new filter.
Would start and idle, would not run any faster.
Good afternoon, Ray. Hope you are having a restful weekend.
@@wza223-fo3mc ya know!
@@wza223-fo3mcSeriously? There's always one. Was that really necessary?
Had Chevy van 1998 5.7 that would just die driving down the road, what I found in the end was the PCM mounted to left inner fender , the bolts had corroded and it opened the computer around a1/8 inch, the circuit board was green and crusty. I took it apart , cleaned it up, put a silicone sealant and new bolts and nuts. Van ran find 2 yrs, then started doing the same thing, I replaced pcm with new one no problems for 4yrs, sold the van that guy drove it for a couple of years got in wreck ended up in salvage yard. Still would run, body totaled
"Oh no, I've broken more things than I've fixed" 😂
Great video Rainman 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺
It isn't throttle body injected. It has a multiport spider pump under the intake. Also, the union in the brake line beside the gas tank is original.
You can get every part to that truck from autozone or the equivalent. Autonzone even stocks delco parts
With all the "Redneck Modifications" quite a feat for it to make to Florida from Ohio. 😎😎
That’s what I was thinking…
Now don't go knocking on "Ohio Jerry Rigging" we do know how to hold them together in Rust Country 😂
Good set of tyres
For a Ohio truck not much body rust! I love Ohio, just not the rust!
A redneck would have used a beer can for the little switch panel.
I had a friend’s car to diagnose for “died when running on the road”. Many years ago. Turned out to be a partially blocked breather in the tank. Admitted enough air at tick-over, but at high speed the used fuel leaving the tank created a partial vacuum in the tank and stopped the engine due to fuel starvation. Finally diagnosed when, having recreated the problem on the road, we opened the tank filler cap and noted the noise of air entering the tank. Drove home with the filler cap off.
I love those older Chevys and GMCs but I will say from experience the crank sensor will cause the same symptoms as a bad fuel pump on that particular unit and with the crank sensor it can be a very slight or intermittent failure
i agree but wouldnt it throw a DTC (diagnostic trouble code)?
@@andrewdonohue1853 Nope. When the pulses from the crank sensor go away, the ignition module stops the spark and fuel pump before the ECM knows there is a problem. Been there done that on an'05 LeSabre with the 3800 in it. Took a new ignition harness to fix the bad connector at the crank sensor.
14 minutes in, I'm thinking that it idles fine but maybe it can't get up to highway speed due to lack of fuel at that speed. A trip around the block (over the bridge/overpass) could've been tried. OK, on with the rest of the video. Oh, I forgot, no brakes!! Best not take it out on the highway!
Yes! Interesting video! I really hope they ok those brakes line repairs and of course the fuel line repair cuz they are all safety related and needed...
New 1.5 ray power quad. It's a prototype engine power plant
Ray I had the same issue once and it was the main ground wire from the engine to the frame that had to be replaced along with the alternator.
Back in the day, my girlfriend would just use a steak knife with a wooden handle and would ground the battery to the frame, started everytime! 😂 The silly things ya do when you're 18...
@@jilbertb yeah the thing is that all Chevy truck have issues with the body grounds and the break lines that run on the frame along with the fuel line. When I replaced all of mine I ran them through a rubber hose . Never had an issue after that.then I bought three cases of under coating and sprayed the entire undercarriage of the truck.
I'd be half tempted to part that truck out at this point. When rust starts, there's no stopping. I'd hate to see the rust under that be liner. That being said, might get another 5 years out of it. Tough call IMHO.
if you cant get a replacement fuel line kit, dorman makes a slick kit that uses pretty readily available nylon fuel line and kit comes with a decent press tool and all the quick connects etc. I dont remember the number but i think it was called "professional nylon fuel line repair kit". Its really handy for older clunkers like this-we used to use it a lot up here in the rust belt-you can fab up a new line pretty easily
Did a few of those up here in WI, for fuel and steel brake lines.
All that water in the bed, i almost would think it caust some electrical issue while driving, meaning that the fuellines and brakelines are not the only ones that bad... he eather drove it in the rain, or he pressurewashed it and caust some shortbrakes while driving after it........which might explain the relais laying arround as something typical........good vid nice lift and all......
For the milage that truck seems to have lived a hard life.
Welcome to the rust belt and the world of vehicle abuse.
Rust aside, that was my thinking too, not the worst out there by a long shot, but could be cared for a bit better, age notwithstanding.
This is nothing this looks like a 50k mile truck you guys just arnt used to seeing rust
@@TFD1982 - I wasn't referring to the rust. I was referring to the hanging wires, disconnected parking brake cable, non functioning switch etcetera.
I had a 1969 Pacific NW Model, That had been neglected. So I checked the nipple and She fired right up. Runs Great, Plenty of Power and very comfortable to ride
Come on Ray. It had a loose battery cable. That would have caused it to stall...hit a bump the connection gets loose, can't start. You tightened it down at the beginning, so of course it is running now. As a test, you should have loosened the battery cable again and see if that caused the shorting.
Agree 👍🏼
It was definitly that loose battery cable. On 96 and up gmt400s the ecm has to see battery voltage or the truck will shut right off
Brave man pushing the parking brake of an old truck from Ohio
Yeah, lucky it released. You don't touch them in Iowa either.
This video is supreme with an older video!!!! Great work!!!
You really need to congratulate this customer, they actually managed to escape from Ohio.
Ohio is great, best location (other than Florida) in the nation. Minimal crazy destructive Demoncrats, mild non tornado/hurricane weather and a Great Lake. Ok, the winters suck.
At least their pickup did, by being towed out.
@@John-dp3ln demoncrats ....😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Definitely needs fuel filter, fuel and brake lines-before they pop. I worked on a no start 91 chevy truck which had no fuel pump or spark. Turns out the distributor rotor was bad, which shuts down everything else. You might check the dist cap and rotor. Same thing later on a 98 Bravada, didn't need a fuel pump. But that one didn't prime until cranked.
Must be a "Southern Ohio" truck. At 160K miles that truck would have rotted to dust by 100k in Northern Ohio by now
YUP!!! (I'm from MI)
It's a Chevy 350, it won't die. Just needs an occasional nap.
Just like my X code ford Tempo. Only time it ever died was when it was hit by lightning... Just needed a new antenna, radio, and ignition coil.
Wow, that truck is falling apart! The rigging took more time than the simple fixes.
it's structurally sound actually. everything that's been hacked can easily be fixed, and cheaply. the engine sounds very healthy. i say fix it. new pickups are stupid expensive and overly complicated. these trucks are actually pretty decent vehicles.
@@andrewdonohue1853 And old Chevys won’t die. This one is proof.
@@delrider302 new chevys are junk
This is NOT falling apart this is probably a 2-3500 truck with it still having paint on the frame on top of have ZERO rust on the body.
Watching Watch Wes Work on "crusties" where he lives, gives me some perspective on this truck. It is actually pretty clean for a salt country truck. It has some original thinking with regards to repairs. The original thinking repairs could actually be the problem.
There's an awful lot of little things left broken or hacked together. Seems a shame when proper repairs aren't all that hard. But the demon rust is knocking on the door. Have to see if this one can be saved. Also very interesting to me personally, as I have a 98 Burb, so it's great to get a tour of where some little things are hiding.
Saying a shame is being nice. More like moron mods. Made by morons. I’d let them fix their own pile of shit. U want to be Joe genius u fix it ahole id say. Ray is being too generous
Ray works on a lot of junk vehicles!
This is no where the amour of rust it should have this is CLEAN.
5 minutes in and it all became clear. Someone completely trashed the wiring and the brakes on this truck just to mess with your mind - and it is also a test from the truck gods.
I went back to Ohio
But my city was gone
There was no train station
There was no downtown
Ay, oh, way to go, Ohio...
I sang that in my head 🎶
@@92mrsrdb 🏙💨🏜...✌👍
at 28:30 the brake line to rear has already been replaced, it's seen in middle of screen fabricobbled and dangling wildly past the camera. lol
now as for the fuel, return and vent lines, filter, they're smoked and likely tank module is about rust powder. usually you can cut and compression fitting the "FUEL" lines up near the front/engine and replace from there back.
the trucks are known to have heat related ignition dropout issues. good luck.
😂!YOU HAD ME ROLLING WHEN YOU TOLD TROY IF THINGS GO SOUTH WHILE UNLOADING THE ATV DON’T TRY TO SAVE ME.I COULD ONLY IMAGINE THE LOOK 👀 ON TROYS FACE!
This truck reminds me of a creepy movie with a slightly modified title.
“Big Truck of Horrors”.
I was expecting to see Ray pull out a dirty shovel and half a bag of lime :)
The brake lines definitely need to be replaced that's safety hazard.and most definitely the feul lines needs replaced along all the flex lines and filter 👍
Ray, now that's its running because you found the alternate ignition I truly think the battery cable you fixed killed it and allowed it to not restart, I would try to recreate that by running the truck and backing the nut off a turn or so and wiggle the wires, your other though about the fuel pump was very true, however that's a very strong fuel pump, typically when the jostling of a tow I've only seen about 50% of the pressure compared to what you have and ultimately still needing a pump in a short period of time, hope this helps, and good luck, great job and happy weekend to you
Agree with batt cables scenario.
Good year for Chevy trucks. That one needs some love though.
I think while under a heavy load, the broken fuel line would suck in air and kill the engine for the fuel lines. You’re probably going to have to make them yourself.
@@Islandwaterjet was just a thought but that’s fore the education
We been using nylon fuel lines for years now with no leaks or problems, they are a time saver, and make all the push lock fittings and bubble flare fittings. Saves stocking lines for multiple vehicles and no rust.
How well do they endure heat and cold in an automotive environment?
You 2 guys are hilarious! Looking forward to seeing what happens with the truck. Cheers!
Hope it doesn't turn into another old jeep thing !!!
If I lived closer to yall I'd have you rebuild my mopar 8.75 rear end
Keep us updated on this. Clean truck, just needs tlc.
Not a mechanic so I admit I am talking from ignorance here. That leaking fuel line could not only leak fuel but also suck in air (or water) if there is any variation in fuel pressure. There is now a bubble in the fuel line. As the truck runs it gets hot under there. Especially on a long trip from Ohio. The air expands enough to block the fuel line and truck stalls. Truck now remains idle and cools down. The air bubble collapses and now fuel can now flow. So I support your decision to replace the fuel lines.
Love Ray's patience. A lot of others (Eric O.) would have looked at this truck and the DIY wiring etc... and just sent it away...
He's got plenty of videos of rusted brake & fuel lined where he has repaired/replaced them. Most of his work is rust related.
eric o can handle this and he would
A remote starter switch is a good anti theft feature, LOL. I had an old dodge van I did that too.
Starter mod , most normal car in Ohio ☠️ actually this Chevy is the most normal car in Ohio 👀☠️☠️💀
Bless you for even touching this, most shops wouldn't. This truck is falling apart and too many band-aids holding it together. You will end up with a headache when it returns and customer wants it fixed again under the guarantee.
Everything you looked at or touched was broken. lol It is 25.5 years old but still... It took wayyyy longer to run that starter trigger wire, fab a switch plate, and install the switch than it would have to pull the steering wheel and replace the ignition switch. 😅
Shops looking great Ray!!! I'm happy for you and wish you continued growth and success.
Now we all know you were like Master Troy, jump in there n if you start it first time I'll give you 50 bucks 😂 that PTS buttons something I've never seen before lol
Looks like it could be a great truck…..BUT it needs a WHOLE LOT of TLC
"Lots of TLC" means "Lots of $$$ to fix what's fuggered.."
@@blacksheep25251 Still a lot cheaper than buy a "New"/Used truck.
first comment that made sense, these trucks were actually really decent and this truck isnt completely shot. new pickup trucks are hardly worth what manufactures are charging. older trucks are worth saving and keeping around. proper care and de-hacking this truck will run with the best of them.
@@aliasfred I'd buy it before a brand new one. Just wish it had a straight front axel (4x4 model). Dang good truck
Any guy here in Ohio would buy that truck from how clean it actually is let alone try and find another door rust free.
check inside of rubber fuel lines they can dissolve or have chunks let loose due to ethanol in fuel. Or collaps under loads. We had that happen to our old army trucks.
they ran fine stationary but when full power it died while driving.
Is it sucking air in to the fuel lines? Is it a pressurised return line? And yes that filter is from the Apollo mission. And I think those bolts on the tank are going to irritate you lol.
word of advise from someone from the north, never ever ever ever use the parking brake unless it is a manual. usually they are rusted out and break so easy we delete them cause it is easier than replacing them every other year.
Yikes a strange different wire always means trouble for me 😮
Is the snake under the seat still? Like my 93
@@ronpflugrath2712 yikes 😳 lol
I had to do a gas line replacement last year on a Caddy that used to be an Ohio car. Same thing, brakes and gas line. I went with nickel copper for the gas line. It's a whole lot easier to work with. I could find pre-made gas line though it was crazy expensive. No problems since. Nasty job though.