And, you’ve created another learning opportunity where you gain wisdom and experience. It’s not all bad. I would consider checking with a salvage yard, to see if they have the appropriate / necessary parts, but the bolt would be the same length as the one removed. And with the damaged threads, that leaves no room for the required new nut. 🤔
Like Edison once said, I haven’t failed, just found 10,000 ways that didn’t work. We have all been there and thank you for posting a video showing you are human like the rest of us.
Man! I been working on cars for 5+ plus years and I’m so hard on my self for making mistakes thinking I should know better by now but knowing that a veteran mechanic can make simple mistakes give me hope and that’s why you haven’t fail!! Thank you for sharing the pain!
You know what.. I run into these issues all the time where I forget the smallest things and I get so angry at myself. Seeing you experience this issue is a teaching moment for my temper. You have no idea how important it is for me to see you make a mistake. You are making me a better man in many ways!
One of the reasons I enjoy watching your vids is BECAUSE you post the so called 'failure' days! As an amateur tools gal who did most of my own repairs, I had some interesting failures over the years. Listening to your thought processes is also really helpful as it triggers a different way to approach an issue in my own head. Thanks Ray, and keep doing you!
My own opinion, I'd have procured a tap the correct size, cleaned up the remaining threads, procured a required length bolt of the same size, to protrude and a nut. Might have taken some work to find a suitable bolt with enough thread length, but it would have been my option. I am however, pleased that you posted it, we all take the hits with the wins, and this just shows that you're one of us.
That is a option but the problem is the existing treads are weakend given there are no cross treading involved it would be even more so if it has which just increase the chance of failure i wouldnt risk it given the amount of stress the bolt endures. Im no expert but thats just my thoughts. Now that i think of it if he had the tools he could make a bolt long enough to add a nut but it looked like fine treads on the factory bolt. Haha i love trying to figure out problematic situations.
@@swart121 I think Ray was purchasing SAE thread bolts when the original bolt was Metric, Probably M10 or M12 size (could not see the size from the video). I do believe that there are probably another 1/2 inch or more of good metric thread in the sub frame and if he taps them and adds a nut it will be better than is is now by far. The correct solution of course would be to replace the sub frame.
@@norcal715 There might? be enough thread there, BUT would you be willing to bet your company on the potential liability of putting that back on the road?
He showed measuring the bolts with the caliper. The original was M14. The smaller ones he bought are 1/2”. He just needs to tap that hole deeper an get a longer bolt. This ain’t rocket science. That sleeve is long enough to put 2” more thread if needed.
I wouldn't do it on a customer's car, but if it was my personal ride, I'd get the correct size tap, clean up the existing threads and get a nice long M14 bolt. Just one machinist talkin'. Love your stuff, Ray; keep up the good work!
I agree with the tap idea and maybe use a longer bolt and then use a castilated (spelling) nut on the back side for “just in case”. That’s the way this farmer would do it
Oh Ray I feel your pain. I spent an entire day driving 6 hours each way to a place to come back empty handed because I didn't think straight either. It will work out, you're a pleasure to watch. Keep it up!
Kudos to you Ray for posting this video, and for keeping it real! (I wish the "DIY Home improvement" shows were this honest about how things really happen). I was really hoping that you still had that Miata chassis you just recycled recently to scavenge some possible donor hardware. Wish I was close-by to be your parts gopher! Thanks again for bringing us along on your journey Ray!
You only have two options to keep it safe. option 1 replace the subframe. Option 2 drill out the rest of the thread to the same diameter of the original bolt size get a longer bolt with a locknut or castle nut with a split pin . If you go with a thinner bolt than original you will have trouble with wheel alignment also it will come loose and eventually fail again. PS. Keep up with your great work you are a pleasure to watch. Also the WIFE UNIT.
The whole time I was thinking you need 2 more inches not one! It happens to the best of us! We learn from our mistakes and you'll be a better, wiser man for it! Love the videos, Ray.
Glad you posted this , we all have these moments! Just a suggestion, if there is a local motorbike store, the axle bolts are longer and may do the job. I had a look in my workshop and found an old one in my collection that was the right diameter. If I remember it was a bolt from a Yamaha scooter
Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn Ray. I appreciate you posting this video. Shows you're a real person and not always perfect like other TH-camrs portray to be. Hang in there and keep keeping on. 😊
Thank you Ray you did not fail you showed us the truth and realism behind auto repair that things don't always go as planned and even the best miss calculate sometimes, we are human. This also shows you don't and will not just rig it for a dollar but you are honest and about the safety of people.
Hope all is well with the sick kids. Seems like everything you deal with is in a impossible place to get too. You are a magician, and your patience is off the charts.
I laughed when you said you only needed another inch and that you were going to drive across town to get a new part 'cause I saw what you just did... We've all done something like it except for those perfect people who don't make mistakes, you know the ones, right? Those who don't do anything except talk s--t. I have two words for ya, McMaster-Carr... Next day by 10AM. A lot cheaper than an hour of your time, fuel, and the unnecessary parts you probably won't return. You might have realized your mistake if you didn't need to rush to get to Fastenal. Love your videos!
It's not totally a failure Ray. Just call it a learning experience. You always think of customers first and find way to save them money which only a true mechanic with a heart would think. Also, your true sense of humor made the videos fun to watch. Thank you and keep up your great spirit.
Cost him time and money to try to save someone else money Should have quoted new frame member for proper repair Customer can't afford it, then they can't afford to drive Take the bus
No worries Ray. Crap happens and it can happen to the best of us. You are still great at what you do! You're a wonderful mechanic, teacher and fun to watch! The only failure in life is not trying.
if you dont have a tap, but do have a spare bolt make a cut along the length of the bolt with a cutoff blade at right angles to the thread, whack a hefty champher on the end and it will act as a makeshift tap (probably 1 use only) and recut the threads. the cut you made gives room for the metal to move away from the cutting edge like a normal tap, the cut also forms your cutting edge.
I think that thread's too far gone for that, personally. It's a critical component, I would replace the sub frame or remove it and have it repaired (Welded and re-tapped)
I saw the fail as you were sussing out a bolt length that would work .... I'm like "Nooooooo" don't go to the bolt store bro, you've measured wrong ... keep up the good work Ray, you're only human, we all make mistakes.
It's all good Ray...it happens to the best of us. Personally I would opt for a subframe if a used one can be found without breaking the bank. The temp fix to move the car in and out is a step in the right direction...no more flippety floppety wheel action.
An engineer would weld, drill and tap but to properly it would mean removing the subframe and using a bench press so it would be just as well tonreplace the subframe.
The alternative is screwed rod, tubular sleeve and nuts/washers. Screwed rod is always handy stuff to have in stock it is so adaptable. Lot cheaper than individual bolts too.
Ray should visit a local body shop, I wish shipping didn't cost a bunch, I was a bodyman for 46 years, I scrapped 7 - 5 gallon pails of every imaginable nut, bolt, screws of all grades from 1964 through 2007 +. How about full size pick 'em up truck bed bolts?
It's actually a threaded sleeve in there, not a nut. But, replacing the sleeve is a viable repair, costing more in labor and probably being a wash cost wise vs just replacing the subframe.
Mistakes happen, we all make them, I respect the fact that you still posted, don't beat yourself up too much bud, all is well! Thank you for your videos, I enjoy them!
I’d find the proper tap, of the same thread pitch of the original bolt, and chase it through. Still get a longer bolt that matches the chased threads and reaches to the other side and back it with a pinch nut like you planned. You’ll be golden.
@@mikecabral1579 cylinder bushing. Hardest part would be finding one that has thin enough walls to make up the difference of less than a couple hundredths of gap for the sloppiness of fitment. Frankly, I'd slip a bit of copper pipe over the rod and pound it thin on an anvil to get the right fitment if it came down to it. OR, sit it in a jig and drill it thinner on a press and it'll expand enough with heat to slip onto the bolt with pressure?
I learned in the 30 years doing automotive and truck work the best way is to replace the component. I know you want to save the customer money, but it could backfire on you if the former mechanic or the homeowner attempted repairs and cross threaded the bolt. Let the customers know what you found and safety is the utmost importance to you!!
I agree on replacing the crossmember. As most tech know the meaning of CYA. Cover Your Ass and maybe avoid a possible law suit because you were the last one to touch it. Do the customer right for their safety.
What? You guys are very generous with customer money. How about you communicate with the client . If it was my car I would have done the legwork and get the bolt to Ray. Just the fact that Ray had to take that road trip to Fastenal was strange enough. Dude you're a business owner. He needs to hire an apprentice/cameraman/ organizer/cleaner/errand boy!
@@mod_incllc3235 -- Taking over an hour to drive to the bolt shop strikes me as being generous with customers money as well. Personally, if it was my car, I'd want that subframe replacing. I wouldn't want to be driving down a busy motorway at 70 mph when a jerry rigged structural component fails. Car repairs might be expensive, but they're a damn sight cheaper than medical bills.
Here's what I would do in this situation. Measure the real length you need to go through both control arm and subframe +3/4" to install a nut. But use the same diameter as the original bolt. Get a tap to chase the original threads. Run the new bolt through and then install the nut on the bolt where it extends through the subframe. This way you have the correct original bolt diameter and it's through the original threads and nutted on the end. Good luck
Even this wouldn't be correct. The now unsupported length allows the bolt to flex. You shouldn't do this on a suspension part. Better to weld up and redrill and tap the subframe if you can't find one.
@@denniss5512 I think that might be why it ate the threads up in the first place. Id have done what the guy said in the comment. With a nut and washer on the end going all the way through the subframe it would have been just fine.
This is exactly what I'd do, Catch whatever threads that are left on the way to the other side then throw a nut on the other end. No reason that would fail and just know to keep an eye on it. I've done control arms that are a bolt and from factory and no issues so there should be zero issues.
Hi, been there done that, I learned the same way you just did, it’s not a waste of time as long as you learn from it, you did learn something from it to just replace the bucket and be done with it, you did learn something so it’s a good learning experience and not a waste of time, that bucket will not take long to install and your customer will be happy and will trust you for your honesty, it’s not a fail repair,
Make a bush tap and order a replacement bolt - hacksaw a slot in the end of the bolt, it gives an edge to cut the thread and space for the material to clear
I was shouting at the screen that you were forgetting the depth of the control arm bushing. When I saw the bolts you came out with I knew they weren't long enough. At least it was entertaining, Ray.
It’s not a failure, it’s part of the learning curve…even a mistake has value, you just remembered something! Even from this video, someone will learn something. Shine on and keep moving forward, you’re doing a great job Ray 👍
I worked on cars for 20 years. I lost count on how many wasted trips for the wrong part I have been on. Your videos are good anyway it goes, thanks for doing them.
Don't feel like you are the only one who has ever done this. I'm sure almost everyone who has spent any amount of time working on cars has done this. I was screaming at you your whole way to the store, trying to tell you were going to get the wrong size.
Hello Ray, all of us are just human. I think even the best mechanics still makes mistakes. You have taught us something here. We all have to try our best to better ourselves every time we get a chance to. All is good and I still appreciate you in what you do! I still think a longer bolt and nut will be the best and most cost-effective way to address this.
Farm equipment frequently has larger/longer hardware. So, if you have any dealers near you, can get stuff through them, if you don't have a Fastenal type of retailer handy.
from the look of it the thread pitch on the original bolt was finer than the one you bought too (not an issue really as you were bypassing the threads, but may have become an issue if you were going to try cleaning the hole out by tapping it. it also appears that the OEM bolts were only designed to go half way into the thread, thus hanging on a smaller amount of thread..
Hi Ray. Always an option... if you get a tap the size of the initial thread you should be able to run it in from the other side. It will be much shorter than the bolt. Then get a bolt with the same thread that is the length of the ones you bought. You will have enough threads and the correct diameter bolt. Putsome lick tight on it just in case ; )
I could not see what you were dealing with in the way of left over damaged threads. But one way to make a temporary tap is to cut a slot through the threads of a sacrificial bolt with the same thread size. This gives you a cutting edge for one or two thread cleaning attempts. The harder the bolt the better. Hope this helps, and don't forget to have a great day!
cutting the slot makes it expand with a pin wedged into the front? if so, then yeah a sacrificial bolt (or two or three) to clean out and repair what you can of the threads sounds like a great idea. it's a shame the gas tank is right there or I'd suggest packing the other end with JB weld to fill space and create "some" additional thread strength and going in from the end with relatively "known good" threads but you'd risk bungling them up if you came from the other end and didn't match up right. Any pitfalls with that approach?
@@stayfortea5235 If you were using soft thread, I would agree. Hardened Stainless Steel Tread wouldn't crush, and by the time it did most of the car would have rotted away anyway.
I think you should have used the metric scale on the callipers. The first bolt was obviously 16mm and your replacement was 12 mm. If you ever get around to drilling the hole out to 16mm, make sure you have up to date medical insurance, for broken limbs.
I'm not sure if ray is trolling yt with this channel, but he does some questionable things..... I started watching a month ago, and I'm still confused???
I'm probably late to the party but what about making that bolt into a stud that gets welded into the sub-frame? should still be serviceable if the outer leg is removed first and pivots on the stud. Great effort Ray. Never give up. Never surrender.
I was thinking the other way around: given the threads are at the far-end, my first instinct was to weld that end shut and simply re-tap it. Of course something would have to be placed in the near-end that would enable the weld to pool. It would probably be best to remove the subcomponent first to effect such a repair. Of course, cutting-off the nut-like structure at the far-end and then welding on a replacement would be another approach.
Am I going crazy or is that portside bolt looking a bit bent? Could also just be the camera lens, and it seems to fit the bushing smoothly. As for the subframe, I would say put a new one in (I'm 13 minutes into the video at this point, so I don't know what Ray does yet!) because if the threads are stripped like this on the starboard side, then the port side would probably be close to the same, and there could potentially be cracks forming, especially if the vehicle was previously in a collision.
Nope.. that damage is due to a loss of torque and loose bolt over time.. nothing says that other is bad and infact when he pulled the bolt we know it's good. We would drill out threads slightly and add a bolt and nut, grade 8 at least with a double nut .. it's not an adjustable rear end anyway but you may have to shim alignment. If it were the dealer.. new subframe, if me and too bad , junk yard sub. Assuming you could get one...
Hi Ray,your options, longer bolt with lock nut,options 2 drill hole out run longer bolt ,with nut bolt must be grade 5 or 8 ,count lines on bolt head and add 2 to your number for hardness
Hey Ray! Might not be able to find a longer bolt, but could you make one with a piece of all thread and a couple nuts? Bit of a farmer fix, but seems like it'd work! Appreciate you posting up your work man, love watching and learning!
One thing: when you want to freshen up threads, you can cut two grooves in the tip of the new bolt, making it cut like a tap. This is very helpfull if you don't have the correct tap laying around.
You're looking at the door when he still is running his air with a hose on the floor?! I'm sure there are plenty other things he's got in front or replaceming the door.
Ray, the engineers hid that bolt in the subframe for a reason. That reason is about 2” from the subframe, gas tank (read collision, puncture, gas fire). Replace the subframe and sleep on a soft pillow.
Hey Ray, This is a year on, and I'd like to echo what others have said. Don't be so hard on yourself. We all make mistakes, sometimes small, sometimes huge. See what you can learn from it and move forward, on to bigger and better things. What I like best about your content is that you share the mistakes, even embarrassing ones like this, and you have my respect for that, my dude. That actually makes you a better mechanic because of your attitude towards it. Sure, be annoyed, but learn from it, always. Keep doing what you're doing mate, because mistakes and all, you do a brilliant job. I'd take my car to you any day if I were close enough.
It is never a failure to learn something new. I will wager you will NEVER do that repair in the same way again! VICTORY, we have all learned and WE thank you Ray!
What up ray!! Just started watching your videos about a week ago, don't know what it is but I can watch your videos all day. But I will say yeah I caught that while you were measuring and told myself damn he doesn't realize it. Don't beat yourself up over it brotha, happens to the best of us.
Had boats for years , just a hole in the water, found it was cheaper to hire a boat, in Australia you ring up the hire place, and they deliver the boat to a ramp at the desired time, you use it , and call them to pick it up at a determined time, so good , they insure it service it, you don''t need to tow and keep it at your place, it so good cost a few hundred $ but compared to buying and upkeep
I've made a tap out of a bolt by cutting notches in it an running it down. Use lot's of oil. Yes, clean up threads, longer bolt, red Loctite, torque to specs. I also recommend you get yourself a roll around cart. I always hated picking and placing things on the floor. Even picking up and dropping the air hose will wear you out. Thanks for posting.
Does Extending the bolt out beyond the original makes it a danger to puncturing the fuel tank in a wreck? I couldn't tell is it the fuel tank or just the trunk that the new longer bolt will hit?
Hi there, sorry I did not see this sooner. Try Bolt Depot, they ship same day and also overnight. They have Socket Head Cap Screws 14mm dia up to 220 mm long screws. Good Luck
You are a pro and made a mistake. Me, a professional DIYer, makes those mistakes often. 😂. Today I just put on a ABS control module on after having it rebuilt. I boogered the threads on one of the break lines. It messed up the box where the break lines screw into. A trip to the pick n pull and found one. Also, a 1’ break line from Honda was $50(right front break line) Brakes are bled and no Lights on the dash!! It was heck of a project, but I learned a lot!! I watch your videos often.
well atleast ya can admit your mistake and are one step closer to solving the problem. great videos as always ray. one hell of a mechanic thats honest n does right, rare breed.
That feeling one gets when it becomes evident that what is really needed to get the job done ... is 2 1/4 extra inches. Do not call it 'failure' call it the 1st vital step in ultimately achieving success!
So I've seen something similar with brake caliper brackets and like half the threads were missing what I did to fix it was I used a longer bolt and I used orange loctite and I never heard back from the person again so I assume it worked
You have not failed Ray. You successfully found a way that will not work.
I like that, the cup half full approach. Long live all optimists😄.
😊😅😅
And, you’ve created another learning opportunity where you gain wisdom and experience. It’s not all bad. I would consider checking with a salvage yard, to see if they have the appropriate / necessary parts, but the bolt would be the same length as the one removed. And with the damaged threads, that leaves no room for the required new nut. 🤔
This sure is not a fatal setback, Ray can fix it. It just takes longer or goes a bit differently than expected at first.
Lol😅
Like Edison once said, I haven’t failed, just found 10,000 ways that didn’t work. We have all been there and thank you for posting a video showing you are human like the rest of us.
Thought Edison paid other people to find 10,000 ways that didn’t work?🤔
You cant do it right, whitout doing a mistake sometimes !
You are a human 😊 and not a robot.
Drill the hole longer bolt grade 8 with washer nut that are grade 8 and loctite it and quit second guessing and do the job😮
Thank you for posting this. It is amazing how many people believe mistakes are to be hidden and ashamed of. You owned it like a true professional.
Man! I been working on cars for 5+ plus years and I’m so hard on my self for making mistakes thinking I should know better by now but knowing that a veteran mechanic can make simple mistakes give me hope and that’s why you haven’t fail!! Thank you for sharing the pain!
Great to see Rainman Ray on TH-cam. Logical reasoning wins!!
You know what.. I run into these issues all the time where I forget the smallest things and I get so angry at myself. Seeing you experience this issue is a teaching moment for my temper.
You have no idea how important it is for me to see you make a mistake. You are making me a better man in many ways!
One of the reasons I enjoy watching your vids is BECAUSE you post the so called 'failure' days! As an amateur tools gal who did most of my own repairs, I had some interesting failures over the years. Listening to your thought processes is also really helpful as it triggers a different way to approach an issue in my own head.
Thanks Ray, and keep doing you!
It is not a failure it's an unsolved problem have a great day
My own opinion, I'd have procured a tap the correct size, cleaned up the remaining threads, procured a required length bolt of the same size, to protrude and a nut. Might have taken some work to find a suitable bolt with enough thread length, but it would have been my option. I am however, pleased that you posted it, we all take the hits with the wins, and this just shows that you're one of us.
That is a option but the problem is the existing treads are weakend given there are no cross treading involved it would be even more so if it has which just increase the chance of failure i wouldnt risk it given the amount of stress the bolt endures. Im no expert but thats just my thoughts. Now that i think of it if he had the tools he could make a bolt long enough to add a nut but it looked like fine treads on the factory bolt. Haha i love trying to figure out problematic situations.
EXACTLY
@@swart121 I think Ray was purchasing SAE thread bolts when the original bolt was Metric, Probably M10 or M12 size (could not see the size from the video). I do believe that there are probably another 1/2 inch or more of good metric thread in the sub frame and if he taps them and adds a nut it will be better than is is now by far. The correct solution of course would be to replace the sub frame.
@@norcal715 There might? be enough thread there, BUT would you be willing to bet your company on the potential liability of putting that back on the road?
He showed measuring the bolts with the caliper. The original was M14. The smaller ones he bought are 1/2”. He just needs to tap that hole deeper an get a longer bolt. This ain’t rocket science. That sleeve is long enough to put 2” more thread if needed.
I was screaming at the screen the whole time when you dry fit the bolt from your shop. DON'T FORGET THE THICKNESS OF THE ARM!!! 😲
He did mention it at some point prior to driving to fasenal lol...
Thanks!Made me feel human seeing that even you can make a mistake.
I wouldn't do it on a customer's car, but if it was my personal ride, I'd get the correct size tap, clean up the existing threads and get a nice long M14 bolt. Just one machinist talkin'. Love your stuff, Ray; keep up the good work!
Great advice!
I agree with the tap idea and maybe use a longer bolt and then use a castilated (spelling) nut on the back side for “just in case”. That’s the way this farmer would do it
Yeah, if it was my car I would’ve tried an oversized or double oversized drain plug getting as far into the bag of tricks as he went,
This is so inspirational for us "3 trips to the parts/hardware store" DIYers. If it can happen to Ray well, you know.
Get a longer bolt same size and put a nut on end and use red locktite on nut
The best tip for anyone wishing to own a boat is to not own a boat but to make friends with someone who does!
Boat definition: A hole in the water into which you put money. 😁
never more true words spoken 😆
Break out another thousand
@@paullenzen2562 BOAT=break out another thousand.
Or you could just build your own boat. I've built 3 using the stitch and glue method. It adds a different perspective to owning a boat.
Oh Ray I feel your pain. I spent an entire day driving 6 hours each way to a place to come back empty handed because I didn't think straight either. It will work out, you're a pleasure to watch. Keep it up!
6 HR drive for parts??
6 HR DRIVE FOR PARTS??
Thanks!
Thanks John 😎✌️
Kudos to you Ray for posting this video, and for keeping it real! (I wish the "DIY Home improvement" shows were this honest about how things really happen). I was really hoping that you still had that Miata chassis you just recycled recently to scavenge some possible donor hardware. Wish I was close-by to be your parts gopher! Thanks again for bringing us along on your journey Ray!
Are you saying that you cant remodel an entire kitchen with high end countertops mohogany cabinets,travertine tile and viking appliances for 10 grand
You only have two options to keep it safe. option 1 replace the subframe. Option 2 drill out the rest of the thread to the same diameter of the original bolt size get a longer bolt with a locknut or castle nut with a split pin . If you go with a thinner bolt than original you will have trouble with wheel alignment also it will come loose and eventually fail again. PS. Keep up with your great work you are a pleasure to watch. Also the WIFE UNIT.
The type of nut he bought (ignoring the issue with the bolt) is better than a lock-nut.
i have to agree with you , i was thinking the same.
You're right there is a lot of side load on that boat and if there's any play it will cause tire problems have a great day
more sound advice
Only option 1 is the right way for me!
Ray, the fact that you share the challenges you encounter AND the occassional error is AWESOME!!! Just adds to your honest approach to business. A+
Thank you for posting. As a diyer who makes many mistakes, I find this video particularly helpful in so many ways. 👍
The whole time I was thinking you need 2 more inches not one! It happens to the best of us! We learn from our mistakes and you'll be a better, wiser man for it! Love the videos, Ray.
Sad deal... Kinda like blastin a load before yer up/in to the hilt... Live & learn I guess.
Ray you had a day that goes like my days each time I work on my car or do a project around my house. I think we all feel ya buddy.
Glad you posted this , we all have these moments! Just a suggestion, if there is a local motorbike store, the axle bolts are longer and may do the job. I had a look in my workshop and found an old one in my collection that was the right diameter. If I remember it was a bolt from a Yamaha scooter
Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn Ray. I appreciate you posting this video. Shows you're a real person and not always perfect like other TH-camrs portray to be. Hang in there and keep keeping on. 😊
The definition of experience: "Where the test is given first and the lessons are learned later.
Thank you Ray you did not fail you showed us the truth and realism behind auto repair that things don't always go as planned and even the best miss calculate sometimes, we are human. This also shows you don't and will not just rig it for a dollar but you are honest and about the safety of people.
Weld the hole and tap it out! Use a heat shield of course. Love you man! Great work!
Ray , there’s no such thing as a failure,
Keep the faith brother!!
Love the videos and upbeat commentary!!
Hope all is well with the sick kids. Seems like everything you deal with is in a impossible place to get too. You are a magician, and your patience is off the charts.
I believe all of us know that angry feeling after making a mistake. Don't let that get to you.
I knew it the minute he "measured" it, but yelling at the TV didn't change a thing.
I also yelled at the screen. But, it happens.
I've been there! It's ok Ray! :D
Ray didn't find make a mistake he's looking for a solution to a problem have a great day
I laughed when you said you only needed another inch and that you were going to drive across town to get a new part 'cause I saw what you just did... We've all done something like it except for those perfect people who don't make mistakes, you know the ones, right? Those who don't do anything except talk s--t.
I have two words for ya, McMaster-Carr... Next day by 10AM. A lot cheaper than an hour of your time, fuel, and the unnecessary parts you probably won't return. You might have realized your mistake if you didn't need to rush to get to Fastenal.
Love your videos!
Your videos are always very helpful. Always teaching a teaching moment so it’s NOT a fail.
It's not totally a failure Ray. Just call it a learning experience. You always think of customers first and find way to save them money which only a true mechanic with a heart would think. Also, your true sense of humor made the videos fun to watch. Thank you and keep up your great spirit.
Ray's skills are exceptional!
Cost him time and money to try to save someone else money Should have quoted new frame member for proper repair Customer can't afford it, then they can't afford to drive Take the bus
No worries Ray. Crap happens and it can happen to the best of us. You are still great at what you do! You're a wonderful mechanic, teacher and fun to watch!
The only failure in life is not trying.
if you dont have a tap, but do have a spare bolt make a cut along the length of the bolt with a cutoff blade at right angles to the thread, whack a hefty champher on the end and it will act as a makeshift tap (probably 1 use only) and recut the threads. the cut you made gives room for the metal to move away from the cutting edge like a normal tap, the cut also forms your cutting edge.
Thread chaser.
Done this a few times.
I think that thread's too far gone for that, personally. It's a critical component, I would replace the sub frame or remove it and have it repaired (Welded and re-tapped)
@@timjohnun4297 would depend if once the threads are cleaned up, would they hold torque specs, in my opinion.
@@dans_Learning_Curve I don't think there's enough metal left in there for anything to hold. Hoping Ray does a follow up video
@@timjohnun4297 lives on the line if not done as u said.
I saw the fail as you were sussing out a bolt length that would work .... I'm like "Nooooooo" don't go to the bolt store bro, you've measured wrong ... keep up the good work Ray, you're only human, we all make mistakes.
Your honesty and positive attitude makes me wanna drive halfway across the state so you can work on my car. Keep it up Ray! Best channel on TH-cam!
Like your comment
It's all good Ray...it happens to the best of us. Personally I would opt for a subframe if a used one can be found without breaking the bank. The temp fix to move the car in and out is a step in the right direction...no more flippety floppety wheel action.
I only change subframes when they are rotted the f out and ya gotta have good old bolt supply
In the interest of repair liability, I’d go for replacing the subframe, too.
Doesn't need a subframe... just needs a longer Bolt🙄
An engineer would weld, drill and tap but to properly it would mean removing the subframe and using a bench press so it would be just as well tonreplace the subframe.
The alternative is screwed rod, tubular sleeve and nuts/washers. Screwed rod is always handy stuff to have in stock it is so adaptable. Lot cheaper than individual bolts too.
That’s how we learn ray, im sure you’ll find the bolt so many bolt and nut companies out here and online……best of luck to you mate!👍🏿
Ray should visit a local body shop, I wish shipping didn't cost a bunch, I was a bodyman for 46 years, I scrapped 7 - 5 gallon pails of every imaginable nut, bolt, screws of all grades from 1964 through 2007 +. How about full size pick 'em up truck bed bolts?
Replacing the subframe, which from a liability standpoint is the best solution. Or welding a nut inside the subframe to accept a new OE bolt.
Drill out the old threads, weld a nut in the subframe, put in bolt, Good to go.
It's actually a threaded sleeve in there, not a nut. But, replacing the sleeve is a viable repair, costing more in labor and probably being a wash cost wise vs just replacing the subframe.
@@J.Rein702 Gas tanks are made you come out. And I did say that the best solution was replacement of the subframe. It's just not the only solution.
@@Taoelvenmage The threaded hole is a tube/sleeve that passes completely thru the sub frame.
Ray .. everyday is a school day .. kudos for posting .. admitting mistakes takes balls 👍
Mistakes happen, we all make them, I respect the fact that you still posted, don't beat yourself up too much bud, all is well! Thank you for your videos, I enjoy them!
I’d find the proper tap, of the same thread pitch of the original bolt, and chase it through. Still get a longer bolt that matches the chased threads and reaches to the other side and back it with a pinch nut like you planned. You’ll be golden.
Otherwise get a threaded rod with a nut on both sides
You need to not forget about the replacement bolt being the proper size so it fits the control arm with no slop.
@@mikecabral1579 cylinder bushing. Hardest part would be finding one that has thin enough walls to make up the difference of less than a couple hundredths of gap for the sloppiness of fitment. Frankly, I'd slip a bit of copper pipe over the rod and pound it thin on an anvil to get the right fitment if it came down to it. OR, sit it in a jig and drill it thinner on a press and it'll expand enough with heat to slip onto the bolt with pressure?
I learned in the 30 years doing automotive and truck work the best way is to replace the component. I know you want to save the customer money, but it could backfire on you if the former mechanic or the homeowner attempted repairs and cross threaded the bolt. Let the customers know what you found and safety is the utmost importance to you!!
I agree on replacing the crossmember. As most tech know the meaning of CYA. Cover Your Ass and maybe avoid a possible law suit because you were the last one to touch it. Do the customer right for their safety.
What? You guys are very generous with customer money. How about you communicate with the client . If it was my car I would have done the legwork and get the bolt to Ray. Just the fact that Ray had to take that road trip to Fastenal was strange enough. Dude you're a business owner. He needs to hire an apprentice/cameraman/ organizer/cleaner/errand boy!
@@mod_incllc3235 -- Taking over an hour to drive to the bolt shop strikes me as being generous with customers money as well. Personally, if it was my car, I'd want that subframe replacing. I wouldn't want to be driving down a busy motorway at 70 mph when a jerry rigged structural component fails. Car repairs might be expensive, but they're a damn sight cheaper than medical bills.
Here's what I would do in this situation. Measure the real length you need to go through both control arm and subframe +3/4" to install a nut. But use the same diameter as the original bolt. Get a tap to chase the original threads. Run the new bolt through and then install the nut on the bolt where it extends through the subframe. This way you have the correct original bolt diameter and it's through the original threads and nutted on the end. Good luck
Even this wouldn't be correct. The now unsupported length allows the bolt to flex. You shouldn't do this on a suspension part. Better to weld up and redrill and tap the subframe if you can't find one.
@@denniss5512 I think that might be why it ate the threads up in the first place. Id have done what the guy said in the comment. With a nut and washer on the end going all the way through the subframe it would have been just fine.
if you have the clearance for a tap
This is exactly what I'd do, Catch whatever threads that are left on the way to the other side then throw a nut on the other end. No reason that would fail and just know to keep an eye on it. I've done control arms that are a bolt and from factory and no issues so there should be zero issues.
Hi, been there done that, I learned the same way you just did, it’s not a waste of time as long as you learn from it, you did learn something from it to just replace the bucket and be done with it, you did learn something so it’s a good learning experience and not a waste of time, that bucket will not take long to install and your customer will be happy and will trust you for your honesty, it’s not a fail repair,
Failure is not learning from your mistakes like was stated before you found a way it won't work. That's success to me.
Make a bush tap and order a replacement bolt - hacksaw a slot in the end of the bolt, it gives an edge to cut the thread and space for the material to clear
Sounds like a good tip😂
I was shouting at the screen that you were forgetting the depth of the control arm bushing. When I saw the bolts you came out with I knew they weren't long enough. At least it was entertaining, Ray.
Me too, but being on the screen and not there, that's easier to see. haa
Me to 😂
It’s not a failure, it’s part of the learning curve…even a mistake has value, you just remembered something! Even from this video, someone will learn something. Shine on and keep moving forward, you’re doing a great job Ray 👍
i"m sad you did that, but i am glad that i'm not the only one who does! keep the honest videos coming Ray!
I worked on cars for 20 years. I lost count on how many wasted trips for the wrong part I have been on. Your videos are good anyway it goes, thanks for doing them.
Don't feel like you are the only one who has ever done this. I'm sure almost everyone who has spent any amount of time working on cars has done this. I was screaming at you your whole way to the store, trying to tell you were going to get the wrong size.
HAHA!
I can do this three times on one job!😂
Hello Ray, all of us are just human. I think even the best mechanics still makes mistakes. You have taught us something here. We all have to try our best to better ourselves every time we get a chance to. All is good and I still appreciate you in what you do! I still think a longer bolt and nut will be the best and most cost-effective way to address this.
As long as we learn from our mistakes they are simply part of the journey 👍
Just remember " the man who makes no mistakes does nothing". All of now your pain that work. Keep up the good work and honesty.
Farm equipment frequently has larger/longer hardware. So, if you have any dealers near you, can get stuff through them, if you don't have a Fastenal type of retailer handy.
from the look of it the thread pitch on the original bolt was finer than the one you bought too (not an issue really as you were bypassing the threads, but may have become an issue if you were going to try cleaning the hole out by tapping it. it also appears that the OEM bolts were only designed to go half way into the thread, thus hanging on a smaller amount of thread..
I hope Ray’s customers appreciate the lengths he goes through in order to save them money.
Alas not quite long enough in this case. Almost (Family Guy)
Don't worry Ray, I do things all the time where another inch woulda made all the difference.
Dont we all
Is that what she said?
@bobbg9041 if she didnt say it she thought it 🤣
Ray, thanks for the video, showed the real world where things don't always go right!
Don’t be too hard on yourself. You’re a great mechanic.😊
Hi Ray. Always an option... if you get a tap the size of the initial thread you should be able to run it in from the other side. It will be much shorter than the bolt. Then get a bolt with the same thread that is the length of the ones you bought. You will have enough threads and the correct diameter bolt. Putsome lick tight on it just in case ; )
Lock tight😂
@@jimjaques4030
Loctite, actually. ;)
I could not see what you were dealing with in the way of left over damaged threads. But one way to make a temporary tap is to cut a slot through the threads of a sacrificial bolt with the same thread size. This gives you a cutting edge for one or two thread cleaning attempts. The harder the bolt the better. Hope this helps, and don't forget to have a great day!
I agree. And try to get all the filings out of the hole first.
cutting the slot makes it expand with a pin wedged into the front?
if so, then yeah a sacrificial bolt (or two or three) to clean out and repair what you can of the threads sounds like a great idea.
it's a shame the gas tank is right there or I'd suggest packing the other end with JB weld to fill space and create "some" additional thread strength and going in from the end with relatively "known good" threads but you'd risk bungling them up if you came from the other end and didn't match up right. Any pitfalls with that approach?
Just use a high grade threaded bar, then use lock nuts on each end same as a bolt and you can cut it to any length you need.
Love the vids Ray
I concur with this approach. I was going to write the same thing but took the time to read some other response to avoid redundancy.
Over time the threads will crush and add some play in the bushing and subframe hole. though, I'm not sure if it will be enough to matter.
@@stayfortea5235 If you were using soft thread, I would agree. Hardened Stainless Steel Tread wouldn't crush, and by the time it did most of the car would have rotted away anyway.
I was shouting at the tv that you had forgot about the thickness of the bush with that bolt lol 😁😁👍👍
I caught this mistake before you went to the store, but only because i have been there before. Its how we learn. Love the Videos
I think you should have used the metric scale on the callipers. The first bolt was obviously 16mm and your replacement was 12 mm. If you ever get around to drilling the hole out to 16mm, make sure you have up to date medical insurance, for broken limbs.
YES!
I'm not sure if ray is trolling yt with this channel, but he does some questionable things..... I started watching a month ago, and I'm still confused???
I'm probably late to the party but what about making that bolt into a stud that gets welded into the sub-frame? should still be serviceable if the outer leg is removed first and pivots on the stud. Great effort Ray. Never give up. Never surrender.
I was thinking the other way around: given the threads are at the far-end, my first instinct was to weld that end shut and simply re-tap it. Of course something would have to be placed in the near-end that would enable the weld to pool. It would probably be best to remove the subcomponent first to effect such a repair. Of course, cutting-off the nut-like structure at the far-end and then welding on a replacement would be another approach.
Am I going crazy or is that portside bolt looking a bit bent? Could also just be the camera lens, and it seems to fit the bushing smoothly.
As for the subframe, I would say put a new one in (I'm 13 minutes into the video at this point, so I don't know what Ray does yet!) because if the threads are stripped like this on the starboard side, then the port side would probably be close to the same, and there could potentially be cracks forming, especially if the vehicle was previously in a collision.
Nope.. that damage is due to a loss of torque and loose bolt over time.. nothing says that other is bad and infact when he pulled the bolt we know it's good. We would drill out threads slightly and add a bolt and nut, grade 8 at least with a double nut .. it's not an adjustable rear end anyway but you may have to shim alignment. If it were the dealer.. new subframe, if me and too bad , junk yard sub. Assuming you could get one...
it is what it is Ray,,but thankyou for another down to earth upload,,,👍👍
Hi Ray,your options, longer bolt with lock nut,options 2 drill hole out run longer bolt ,with nut bolt must be grade 5 or 8 ,count lines on bolt head and add 2 to your number for hardness
Hey Ray! Might not be able to find a longer bolt, but could you make one with a piece of all thread and a couple nuts? Bit of a farmer fix, but seems like it'd work! Appreciate you posting up your work man, love watching and learning!
/threaded rod is very soft, only good if its grade 8 or above.
I’ll check the all thread we use for rigging. I know it’s hardened but not sure of the grade
One thing: when you want to freshen up threads, you can cut two grooves in the tip of the new bolt, making it cut like a tap. This is very helpfull if you don't have the correct tap laying around.
this!
Do something with that office door.
He is doing something, he's ignoring it.... 😁
It only needs a self closer.
You're looking at the door when he still is running his air with a hose on the floor?! I'm sure there are plenty other things he's got in front or replaceming the door.
Do something with your life
Again I've written before , a hydraulic door closer from home Depot!
This video is just as useful as the ones that go easy. thanks
Ray, the engineers hid that bolt in the subframe for a reason. That reason is about 2” from the subframe, gas tank (read collision, puncture, gas fire). Replace the subframe and sleep on a soft pillow.
Trying to save the customer money is never a fail
Option 3: Take the subframe to a machine shop and let an expert repair the threads.
Option 4 and best: Push the car off a cliff. Everyone will be better served.
Don't you think installing a new subframe will be cheaper with your option?
Hey Ray,
This is a year on, and I'd like to echo what others have said. Don't be so hard on yourself. We all make mistakes, sometimes small, sometimes huge. See what you can learn from it and move forward, on to bigger and better things. What I like best about your content is that you share the mistakes, even embarrassing ones like this, and you have my respect for that, my dude. That actually makes you a better mechanic because of your attitude towards it.
Sure, be annoyed, but learn from it, always.
Keep doing what you're doing mate, because mistakes and all, you do a brilliant job. I'd take my car to you any day if I were close enough.
Late notice. Fastenal stores have all kinds of fasteners and supplies. Specialize in big bolts. Both diameter and lengths
It is never a failure to learn something new. I will wager you will NEVER do that repair in the same way again! VICTORY, we have all learned and WE thank you Ray!
My mentor once told me don’t be upset that you failed. You learned valuable information the only time you should be upset is if nothing was learned.
What up ray!! Just started watching your videos about a week ago, don't know what it is but I can watch your videos all day. But I will say yeah I caught that while you were measuring and told myself damn he doesn't realize it. Don't beat yourself up over it brotha, happens to the best of us.
Had boats for years , just a hole in the water, found it was cheaper to hire a boat, in Australia you ring up the hire place, and they deliver the boat to a ramp at the desired time, you use it , and call them to pick it up at a determined time, so good , they insure it service it, you don''t need to tow and keep it at your place, it so good cost a few hundred $ but compared to buying and upkeep
Sadly Ray, I've also been there and done that! We still like you and your videos.
I've made a tap out of a bolt by cutting notches in it an running it down. Use lot's of oil. Yes, clean up threads, longer bolt, red Loctite, torque to specs. I also recommend you get yourself a roll around cart. I always hated picking and placing things on the floor. Even picking up and dropping the air hose will wear you out. Thanks for posting.
I was screaming at my TV before you drove the truck to the bolts store - "IT'S NOT GONNA WORK!!" 😂
I enjoy seeing you are also as human as I am. Mistakes happen. This is how we learn.
Does Extending the bolt out beyond the original makes it a danger to puncturing the fuel tank in a wreck? I couldn't tell is it the fuel tank or just the trunk that the new longer bolt will hit?
Good job man, keep up making videos like these.
Hi there, sorry I did not see this sooner. Try Bolt Depot, they ship same day and also overnight. They have Socket Head Cap Screws 14mm dia up to 220 mm long screws. Good Luck
well i think your a TRUE mechanic you figure things out. your not just a parts replacer like 90% of the people that call themselves a mechanic.
You are a pro and made a mistake. Me, a professional DIYer, makes those mistakes often. 😂. Today I just put on a ABS control module on after having it rebuilt. I boogered the threads on one of the break lines. It messed up the box where the break lines screw into. A trip to the pick n pull and found one. Also, a 1’ break line from Honda was $50(right front break line) Brakes are bled and no
Lights on the dash!! It was heck of a project, but I learned a lot!! I watch your videos often.
Thanks for posting! Ugh wanted to tell you that you needed to account for the control arm. Was thinking you'd catch it before purchase.
well atleast ya can admit your mistake and are one step closer to solving the problem. great videos as always ray. one hell of a mechanic thats honest n does right, rare breed.
That feeling one gets when it becomes evident that what is really needed to get the job done ... is 2 1/4 extra inches.
Do not call it 'failure' call it the 1st vital step in ultimately achieving success!
You were worrying me when you out that bolt in without the control arm and said it is almost long enough. Can’t forget control arm thickness.
Did you ever find a longer bolt? Or did you have to put in a new subframe?
It's okay ray I have done the same thing in buy parts for van or car. It just happened. 😊
Hi similar issue happened me I buy a that tool augers for make the thread for the factory screws and buala problem solved
So I've seen something similar with brake caliper brackets and like half the threads were missing what I did to fix it was I used a longer bolt and I used orange loctite and I never heard back from the person again so I assume it worked