Wow!! People actually watch my videos. lol.. Thanks for all the shoutouts buddy. If I can offer you a little bit of advice as this clutch is not the easiest to setup. Actually I should rephrase that. It is probably the easiest to adjust once you know what to adjust. But knowing what to adjust gets confusing. Basically it boils down to picking the right spring. First part of picking a spring is deciding what engagement you want. Then picking the finish rate. I don't want to come across as a clutch expert because I'm far from it. This is just bits of info that I picked up and is absorbed in my brain. 120, 200,300. These are you most common initial spring rates. 120 spring will engage pretty much right off idle and 300 is around 2200-2400 rpm. 200 is the most popular one and it's around 1700-1800 rpm. You need to decide what you prefer. I have 120+shim on my 1000 and 200 on the renegade. You can use shims behind the spring for minor tweaks. Next you need to pick finish rate. This one gets a little tricky and depends on motor size (hp), what type of secondary clutch and finally tire size/weight. I don't know of any formula but just from reading, talking and trial and error. There are basically 3 finish rates you should be looking at 900,1200,1600. 900 rate is soft spring and will close quicker. This is good if you have roller type clutches like STM and stock size tires. 1200 is a little stiffer and is the most used with stock secondary clutch and 28" tires or 30" light tire like zilla. Then finally 1600 stiff spring is good for big 30" heavy mud tires. All these springs works very well with STM and for me it made all the difference. Since we know you have a 1000 with stock secondary and 28" mega mayhems. I would probably recommend you go with 1016 spring which has spring rate of 200 start and 1200 finish. If they gave you a 1017, then you might feel like your machine is a rev monster and might not reach top speed. All depends if your machine has the hp to pull in those clutches with stiffer springs. You may need to just add more weight to the slugs to help close those stiffer springs. Finally now you can play with the weights. The stiffer your spring is the more weight you will need. Shoot for that 7400 shiftout range. If you're below 7400 then remove some weight if you're above 7400 then add weight. Don't be afraid of trying different setups. What I like might not be good for you. It's good you try to remove the backplate and feel for yourself if it's better or not. If you don't notice the difference or machine has tough time idling. Then put it back. But if you didn't try it, you would of been left wondering how it would be. Also another good tip which I came across a few guys on Facebook Xmargh and Mark Sommer. Glue the black sliders in there place. Sliders are the 3 little tabs that top plates slides up and down on. This will help quiet down the chattering, clanking noises the clutch makes. I tried it and works really well. Finally last thing to say. I tried and tried and tried to find a nice setting with my 28" Mega Mayhems and just couldn't find that sweet spot where I was happy. I pretty much wrote off the clutches as shit until I switched tires and it all came together. So tires have a big part to play. I just couldn't get traction anywhere except for the mud. Great tread pattern but the rubber is just too stiff. I always had that feeling my tires couldn't keep up with what my engine was doing. Hopefully that made sense. Good luck buddy. I'm here if you need me.
not a good idea to remove back plate. It makes no difference in performance and you can tune the clutch to spin just as fast as removing a balancer that is there for harmonics.
I know Mark. Heard it a thousand times. Went through this a few years back with Russell and couldn't get a straight answer on or off. At the end of the day, Russell told me back then that most of the ones he does he takes it off. I even managed to get a hold of Adam airdam and he too takes it off. So I went for it. As you said, there's nothing to gain in performance but the throttle response was noticeable on my machine. Basically I just got used to it and never did like how it felt with it back on again. But if you want to play it safe, then put it back on before you get used to it being off. Other little thing that I noticed was air flow. With it off it felt there was a little more air flow coming out of the cvt exhaust. I don't have a way of accurately measuring the airflow results so it could be just my imagination. Don't know what else to say. I've been running like these for a few years and haven't changed a belt yet. At the end of the day I don't want people taking off the backplate just because I said so. I just leave it up to the owner to decide for himself. BIG THANKS for the glue slider tip. Would of never believed it those sliders where making all the noise. Works awesome.
Glad you like the CVTech. About your comment in the video regarding CVTech vs STM/QSC, you will be hard pressed to notice any difference between those three clutches on a machine with 28" or smaller diameter tires, especially if you are a trail rider. The CVTech is a really efficient clutch at putting power down. The finger clutches have the advantage though when you start running 29.5+ tire diameters in thick muddy conditions. As Franky has mentioned tuning these clutches can be tricky as you can end up with multiple combinations but once you understand the relationship between the weights and spring its a very easy clutch to work with.
I am excited to play with this clutch, and see whats its capable of! Its going to take some work tuning it for my machine and for my type of riding, but from the sounds of it i won't be disappointed. unfortunately i haven't had the time to test it out, ive only taken up and down the road a couple of times. But im keen to jump right into it and see what its all about!
just wonder what spring u got and what weights they gave u i went from 30s to 28s for tires and it threw everything off have to order new spring and weights.
thanks for the video it was very helpful. I recently got my cv tech clutch but I'm not happy with it and I need some help. there was a drop-down bar when I was purchasing this clutch that was asking what size tires, I selected 29/30's but definitely not working right, I have a 2023 outlander xmr with K&N intake and full HMF Titan Exhaust the bike also is tuned with dyno jet power vision 3 running ATV Terminators 29.5X10X14 on MSA Wheels, my stall/Engagement went from 1800 stock clutch to 2900 RPM that's way to high and also, I know that the clutch is slipping is not grabbing the belt hard. when I get on my bike, and I hit the throttle, and the rpm jumps up the bike starts to pull but there is time where I fell the belt slipping cause out of the sudden you can hear the motor RPM spike up a bit then grabs again. my stock was running way better :) if any of you guys can tell me what weight and spring, I should run I would gladly appreciate
I’m having problems after I install the clutch/can am shop did the work, doesn’t want to go in gear right, before it was perfect now it’s hard to get it in park or low gear and it just doesn’t feel right ..mine is a 2019 Can am outlander 570 xmr
I have a 570 Xmr with a stock secondary with a white spring, looking to get a cvtech and planning to wrong 29-31 assassinators, havoks, Aztecs. Wanted some insight into what you think would work as far as tuning the cvtech thanks
Have you tested to see where the clutch shifts out at? Thats how you know if you have the tuning on point. You need to shiftout at about 7500 rpm unless you have the new 1000R, then its more. You want to tune to that rpm. That means testing with different weights and maybe a spring or too. What cvtech says is out to lunch. Believe me, been in the can am racket since 2007 and into performance and racing these things since then too. I been on a cvtech for 8 years now with a G1 renegade with a 1000 RR GT motor making 103 on the rear wheels NA
Also, we here in Get Torqed country ( Alberta ) have never taken the back plate off. It is there for harmonics and some machines do not idle with it off. For performance we have found on the dyno that leaving it on is more of a benefit then leaving it off.
Here's the clutch Guru. Hey Mark!.. What spring would you suggest he start with. I was thinking 1016 would be a good starting point. This guys is a little bit of a speedster.
i have 2002 500 ho sportsman with 25 inch wild thang tires and my clutch blew so thinking of getting this one well i have too do any set up on it on my bike or well it work fine right out of box for mine
that's what I installed on my 2011 outlander 800, love it toke the back plate off, I was told if I did it would idle rough when cold but haven't seen any difference, she use to lift but now shell lift at 25 to 30km/h without even pulling :)
IF you want all the CV tech answers you are looking for, watch this and read the replies and comments. Treasure trove. Answered all my questions and taught me a lot. In my case, I found out what Id do if I bought a CV Tech and that I won't see enough improvement to justify it. This is definitely home for the Big tire guys.
Yes!! Want to know about Low Rpm *Slip out_For low rpm downgrade riding in Low Range*.. Mine Freewheels/engagement slips out at low rpm off idle=Stock Primary clutch
Im looking for primary setup, i run mostly in Low as i need a quick torque and quick rpm. Im not sure between qsc, cv tech and stm. Would appreciate if you help me with an opinion. I run 26" tyres
How did you find the spring/weight setup with the 28's? I bought the same clutch and mine came with the same spring and weights. I'm planning on putting 28 Silverbacks just wanted to see if this setup works.
IBTJC 4Life yes secondary is stock. Smoother engaging, no squeaking of the belt because now it grips the belt better! More get up and go and great torque
I have the same but the belt is very loose on it i ride a canam Renegade 800 xxc, 2011, but my belt just got schredded after 1000 km's it was a original belt, do you knows if i need a spacer ring or a slide in the front variator cos this cant be normal that the belt hits the cover in standgas if someone can help me it would be great i ordered allready a new belt the stronger one but it would be stupid to just schredd it again for 170€
Dude the video is okay but why have the music if you are trying to explain something some people might find it difficult to understand with the music going on
Great video man and nice Rene! Did you have to change your secondary spring in your stock clutch for the cvtech and taller tire and what was/ is your shiftout rpm in high?
Oh wow, that is great! I have been working an entire week on and off trying to get mine dialed in. I am getting 8000 overrev then settling in at 7200-7300 . (too much swing) and shooting for 7400-7500 (it's a 650 xmr that has higher rpm sweet spot) we think the stock secondary isn't keeping up and causing cvtech to actually slip belt in high at a hard launch. Also, it is revving hard with current spring and weights to 4000 crusing in high at only 10mph.ugh I am glad your's worked good. Thing looks like it really rips!
Hey man.great upgrade..i was talking with u on Instagram.. too the guy on here commenting that is kwik is pretty knowlzgable so he's got some good advice to..i would do as he says and test for shiftout and like I said on your Instagram u may have to add a stiffer secondary spring to get the better performance outta that cvtech..i did and many others have
No and yea, if u not planning on doing some motor work to it later on then no that one will do just fine but if u are stm is the way to go, i know because i have the hole set of stm 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
B B All I really got to do was drive it up and down the road. From that I felt a difference. I want to really rip it for a day get it into deep mud and snow then I’ll be able to put in my full opinion
Oh no, you're listening to Frankie! LOL! CVTech is supposed to be great...hoping to get one soon myself! Did you have issues with the stock clutch burning belts? Great vid!
AllTerrainGuy it did work good while it lasted, easy to tune and lower gearing but I guess it isn't made to handle the extra power and weight of the maverick, hope you have better luck with it
Wow!! People actually watch my videos. lol.. Thanks for all the shoutouts buddy.
If I can offer you a little bit of advice as this clutch is not the easiest to setup. Actually I should rephrase that. It is probably the easiest to adjust once you know what to adjust. But knowing what to adjust gets confusing. Basically it boils down to picking the right spring. First part of picking a spring is deciding what engagement you want. Then picking the finish rate. I don't want to come across as a clutch expert because I'm far from it. This is just bits of info that I picked up and is absorbed in my brain.
120, 200,300. These are you most common initial spring rates. 120 spring will engage pretty much right off idle and 300 is around 2200-2400 rpm. 200 is the most popular one and it's around 1700-1800 rpm. You need to decide what you prefer. I have 120+shim on my 1000 and 200 on the renegade. You can use shims behind the spring for minor tweaks.
Next you need to pick finish rate. This one gets a little tricky and depends on motor size (hp), what type of secondary clutch and finally tire size/weight. I don't know of any formula but just from reading, talking and trial and error. There are basically 3 finish rates you should be looking at 900,1200,1600. 900 rate is soft spring and will close quicker. This is good if you have roller type clutches like STM and stock size tires. 1200 is a little stiffer and is the most used with stock secondary clutch and 28" tires or 30" light tire like zilla. Then finally 1600 stiff spring is good for big 30" heavy mud tires. All these springs works very well with STM and for me it made all the difference.
Since we know you have a 1000 with stock secondary and 28" mega mayhems. I would probably recommend you go with 1016 spring which has spring rate of 200 start and 1200 finish. If they gave you a 1017, then you might feel like your machine is a rev monster and might not reach top speed. All depends if your machine has the hp to pull in those clutches with stiffer springs. You may need to just add more weight to the slugs to help close those stiffer springs.
Finally now you can play with the weights. The stiffer your spring is the more weight you will need. Shoot for that 7400 shiftout range. If you're below 7400 then remove some weight if you're above 7400 then add weight.
Don't be afraid of trying different setups. What I like might not be good for you. It's good you try to remove the backplate and feel for yourself if it's better or not. If you don't notice the difference or machine has tough time idling. Then put it back. But if you didn't try it, you would of been left wondering how it would be. Also another good tip which I came across a few guys on Facebook Xmargh and Mark Sommer. Glue the black sliders in there place. Sliders are the 3 little tabs that top plates slides up and down on. This will help quiet down the chattering, clanking noises the clutch makes. I tried it and works really well.
Finally last thing to say. I tried and tried and tried to find a nice setting with my 28" Mega Mayhems and just couldn't find that sweet spot where I was happy. I pretty much wrote off the clutches as shit until I switched tires and it all came together. So tires have a big part to play. I just couldn't get traction anywhere except for the mud. Great tread pattern but the rubber is just too stiff. I always had that feeling my tires couldn't keep up with what my engine was doing. Hopefully that made sense. Good luck buddy. I'm here if you need me.
Frankie's Channel thanks buddy!! The more I know about these things the better!
yup basically correct. some of the stall rpms your listing is off a touch but most is on point.
not a good idea to remove back plate. It makes no difference in performance and you can tune the clutch to spin just as fast as removing a balancer that is there for harmonics.
KwikRacing800 if I can remember correctly I believe the clutch engages at 2100rpm...I think. I think I want it to engage sooner?
I know Mark. Heard it a thousand times. Went through this a few years back with Russell and couldn't get a straight answer on or off. At the end of the day, Russell told me back then that most of the ones he does he takes it off. I even managed to get a hold of Adam airdam and he too takes it off. So I went for it. As you said, there's nothing to gain in performance but the throttle response was noticeable on my machine.
Basically I just got used to it and never did like how it felt with it back on again. But if you want to play it safe, then put it back on before you get used to it being off. Other little thing that I noticed was air flow. With it off it felt there was a little more air flow coming out of the cvt exhaust. I don't have a way of accurately measuring the airflow results so it could be just my imagination. Don't know what else to say. I've been running like these for a few years and haven't changed a belt yet. At the end of the day I don't want people taking off the backplate just because I said so. I just leave it up to the owner to decide for himself.
BIG THANKS for the glue slider tip. Would of never believed it those sliders where making all the noise. Works awesome.
Glad you like the CVTech. About your comment in the video regarding CVTech vs STM/QSC, you will be hard pressed to notice any difference between those three clutches on a machine with 28" or smaller diameter tires, especially if you are a trail rider. The CVTech is a really efficient clutch at putting power down. The finger clutches have the advantage though when you start running 29.5+ tire diameters in thick muddy conditions. As Franky has mentioned tuning these clutches can be tricky as you can end up with multiple combinations but once you understand the relationship between the weights and spring its a very easy clutch to work with.
right on! thanks for the input!
I am excited to play with this clutch, and see whats its capable of! Its going to take some work tuning it for my machine and for my type of riding, but from the sounds of it i won't be disappointed. unfortunately i haven't had the time to test it out, ive only taken up and down the road a couple of times. But im keen to jump right into it and see what its all about!
just wonder what spring u got and what weights they gave u i went from 30s to 28s for tires and it threw everything off have to order new spring and weights.
thanks for the video it was very helpful. I recently got my cv tech clutch but I'm not happy with it and I need some help. there was a drop-down bar when I was purchasing this clutch that was asking what size tires, I selected 29/30's but definitely not working right, I have a 2023 outlander xmr with K&N intake and full HMF Titan Exhaust the bike also is tuned with dyno jet power vision 3 running ATV Terminators 29.5X10X14 on MSA Wheels,
my stall/Engagement went from 1800 stock clutch to 2900 RPM that's way to high and also, I know that the clutch is slipping is not grabbing the belt hard.
when I get on my bike, and I hit the throttle, and the rpm jumps up the bike starts to pull but there is time where I fell the belt slipping cause out of the sudden you can hear the motor RPM spike up a bit then grabs again. my stock was running way better :)
if any of you guys can tell me what weight and spring, I should run I would gladly appreciate
My CF Moto came stock with CV Tech Clutching. Love it!!!
Just got my 1000 from MSC. Headers, exhaust, tune and top engine mount. All I got left to do is the stage 3 clutch. Happy riding broski.
@@shawndale1552 Shit we live close then, cause that's where I got mine!! Still got it to.
@Ole Dude I'm in northwest Georgia brother. 4 hour drive to MSC.
@@shawndale1552 Damn fella, you drove a long ways for that rig!!! Did MSC just have the best deal or what? I'm just curious...
Hi! Where you ordered another aftermarket central spring and weights for clutch?
Thanks!
I’m having problems after I install the clutch/can am shop did the work, doesn’t want to go in gear right, before it was perfect now it’s hard to get it in park or low gear and it just doesn’t feel right ..mine is a 2019 Can am outlander 570 xmr
May have something to do with the 1 way bearing in the Primary, atleast thats what it sounds like to me being hard to go in gear
I have a 570 Xmr with a stock secondary with a white spring, looking to get a cvtech and planning to wrong 29-31 assassinators, havoks, Aztecs. Wanted some insight into what you think would work as far as tuning the cvtech thanks
you will love it, my dad have a cvtech on his outlander and i allway love to go take a ride with his bike ahah
DizeFilms you like it better than your setup on your renegade?
Almost the same power for real (torque), mine is only a stock one customized by my mecanic but for a 50$ job is worth it ahah.
DizeFilms right on man! By the looks of it your Renegade pulls well!!
so now that you have had this on your wheeler a while what are you thinking about it?
Have you tested to see where the clutch shifts out at? Thats how you know if you have the tuning on point. You need to shiftout at about 7500 rpm unless you have the new 1000R, then its more. You want to tune to that rpm. That means testing with different weights and maybe a spring or too. What cvtech says is out to lunch. Believe me, been in the can am racket since 2007 and into performance and racing these things since then too. I been on a cvtech for 8 years now with a G1 renegade with a 1000 RR GT motor making 103 on the rear wheels NA
Also, we here in Get Torqed country ( Alberta ) have never taken the back plate off. It is there for harmonics and some machines do not idle with it off. For performance we have found on the dyno that leaving it on is more of a benefit then leaving it off.
Just giving you this all for Your information
what we have found in the last 8 years playing with this clutch.
If you would nt mind let me know what the number on the spring is and which tuning pucks you put in and the ones you got with the clutch. Thanks
Here's the clutch Guru. Hey Mark!.. What spring would you suggest he start with. I was thinking 1016 would be a good starting point. This guys is a little bit of a speedster.
KwikRacing800 I’m running the 0951-1025 spring and 0901-7109 weights.... what do you recommend?
i have 2002 500 ho sportsman with 25 inch wild thang tires and my clutch blew so thinking of getting this one well i have too do any set up on it on my bike or well it work fine right out of box for mine
How much was that set up?
Isn’t the backing plate to help reduce the harmonics
Hi. how can i find the one way bearing for a 2011 can am 1,000 but it has the cv-tech brand clutch. Thank you
Hi. I'm just order this same cloch. Any advice long term for it ?
How do u like the clutch? And did u end up putting the parts back on or did u leave them off? What’s the difference with taking the parts off u did
I'd like to see the answer to these questions myself.
that's what I installed on my 2011 outlander 800, love it toke the back plate off, I was told if I did it would idle rough when cold but haven't seen any difference, she use to lift but now shell lift at 25 to 30km/h without even pulling :)
Wow! Move Very fast. Does this clutch thread pitch size is M12X1.5 ?
Where did you order it from and how much was it ?
Austin Moore bought it online for around $600
AllTerrainGuy was that with the springs and weights?
Hi ... does the engine brake still change after the change? how is it with the original one?
I thought if you put larger tires you put smaller/less weights. Why is yours different?
I'm running the same quad as u but minds a 800 2013 thinking about getting one u .how much did u get it for ?
a lor apret essay tu a remis la courone de derrier sur t on cvtec ou pas ?
How has the clutch been? Still holding up?
IF you want all the CV tech answers you are looking for, watch this and read the replies and comments. Treasure trove. Answered all my questions and taught me a lot. In my case, I found out what Id do if I bought a CV Tech and that I won't see enough improvement to justify it. This is definitely home for the Big tire guys.
How aggressive is the engine braking now? On a scale of 1 to 4. 4 being stock.
Yes!! Want to know about Low Rpm *Slip out_For low rpm downgrade riding in Low Range*.. Mine Freewheels/engagement slips out at low rpm off idle=Stock Primary clutch
Im looking for primary setup, i run mostly in Low as i need a quick torque and quick rpm. Im not sure between qsc, cv tech and stm. Would appreciate if you help me with an opinion. I run 26" tyres
So what was the difference between stock and aftermarket?
How did you find the spring/weight setup with the 28's? I bought the same clutch and mine came with the same spring and weights. I'm planning on putting 28 Silverbacks just wanted to see if this setup works.
Let me know what you guys think of the CVTech clutch? pros and cons?
How did it hold up with the balancer off of it?
Worked just fine!
10-4. How many hours or miles did you run it like that?
Mr.1000 a few years
So what difference do you realize from OEM? Kept the secondary stock?
IBTJC 4Life yes secondary is stock. Smoother engaging, no squeaking of the belt because now it grips the belt better! More get up and go and great torque
AllTerrainGuy As is, it definitely doesn't go from park to low, or any other gear, smoothly. Will the belt still burn if staying in High?
IBTJC 4Life I️ use high when in 2wd. If I️ need 4wd I️ put it in low
IBTJC 4Life yes that’s right. For all gears
I have the same but the belt is very loose on it i ride a canam Renegade 800 xxc, 2011, but my belt just got schredded after 1000 km's it was a original belt, do you knows if i need a spacer ring or a slide in the front variator cos this cant be normal that the belt hits the cover in standgas if someone can help me it would be great i ordered allready a new belt the stronger one but it would be stupid to just schredd it again for 170€
bro tell me why my 1000 xxc rene wont even wheelie?
Also, what is the TH-cam channel for the guy franky you mentioned?
B B his channel is called “Frankie’s Channel”
Thanks. I started searching and found it right after asking.
B B awesome buddy
You should have showed how you got the large nut off the center of the primary, looks like you left out some of the hard parts.
Dude the video is okay but why have the music if you are trying to explain something some people might find it difficult to understand with the music going on
Where’s the link for this?
My cvtech clutch will be here in a couple days...im so excited to c the diffence !!
Can you send me a link? I want to make sure I get the right thing.
From where one can get cvt flyweight
Great video man and nice Rene! Did you have to change your secondary spring in your stock clutch for the cvtech and taller tire and what was/ is your shiftout rpm in high?
Brian Gochenour thanks!! I didn’t touch the secondary clutch. My shift out is around 7300
Oh wow, that is great! I have been working an entire week on and off trying to get mine dialed in. I am getting 8000 overrev then settling in at 7200-7300 . (too much swing) and shooting for 7400-7500 (it's a 650 xmr that has higher rpm sweet spot) we think the stock secondary isn't keeping up and causing cvtech to actually slip belt in high at a hard launch. Also, it is revving hard with current spring and weights to 4000 crusing in high at only 10mph.ugh I am glad your's worked good. Thing looks like it really rips!
Hey man.great upgrade..i was talking with u on Instagram.. too the guy on here commenting that is kwik is pretty knowlzgable so he's got some good advice to..i would do as he says and test for shiftout and like I said on your Instagram u may have to add a stiffer secondary spring to get the better performance outta that cvtech..i did and many others have
NM650XMR awesome thanks for the help!! I’ve got to learn more about this clutch
The question is, is the stm or qse really worth double the money?
No and yea, if u not planning on doing some motor work to it later on then no that one will do just fine but if u are stm is the way to go, i know because i have the hole set of stm 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You didn't say what you thought of it? Feel the difference?
B B All I really got to do was drive it up and down the road. From that I felt a difference. I want to really rip it for a day get it into deep mud and snow then I’ll be able to put in my full opinion
Oh no, you're listening to Frankie! LOL! CVTech is supposed to be great...hoping to get one soon myself! Did you have issues with the stock clutch burning belts? Great vid!
Rob Farrow it would slip in the thick stuff but my problem is I have all this engine but the clutches just don’t match the power! I want potential
Should be able to use all that potential now! Great stuff!
What size are your wheels?!?
14” wheels and 28” tires
Stock secondary?
Yes
@@AllTerrainGuy how did you like the stroke limiter off never seen where you said one way or the other
How much top speed did u lose?
I don’t know, haven’t checked top speed
@@AllTerrainGuy what tire size are u running?
I will have to keep these in mind when I hopefully get one (Outlander XTP 1000). Sub'e'd.
ATV PUNISHER thanks buddy!
Are these better than the stock?
ATV PUNISHER ohh yes! Much better than stock! It’s a must have!
ATV PUNISHER I wouldn’t even consider a clutch kit. Waste of time and a waste of money
Had mine in my maverick and not even a year I cracked a sheave, save your money and buy a qsc
Collin Morgan that’s unfortunate, I’ll stick with the cvtech for this quad
AllTerrainGuy it did work good while it lasted, easy to tune and lower gearing but I guess it isn't made to handle the extra power and weight of the maverick, hope you have better luck with it
when u say shift out at 7400 ..wth pardon my french lol ..idnt get it
He means when the primary goes all the way closed for more speed just look up how they work super easy to under stand after you see it in action 👍
Agreed the music is too loud and annoying.
Just don’t like the rattling
Leave the music to the porn videos 😂🤣🤣
The music while you're talking is really annoying. I had to quit watching.
They are garbage clutches. They rattle like CRAZY after a little time.