Thanks for the great quality and informative videos. My 2015 650xt rear diff was leaking. Asked dealer to repair seal. They ended up replacing diff and driveshaft! 5000kms on bike and I'd say I'm a slightly aggressive trail rider. I don't mud much but love atving in snow. Cost me 50 bucks with the aftermarket warranty. So far the $2kish warranty has paid for itself twice. I bought the bike used at the dealer and the warranty came with the bike. It was owner transferrable. 5 year warranty 50 deductable. Definately going to look into a set of Ratchet wrenches. Thanks again for the great vids.
I’ve had to use your videos as reference three or four times now. My latest tear down is for the rear diff seal. Thanks for taking the time to post and for the easy to understand explanations.
I just wanted to let you know I appreciate the video, I replaced my pinion seal after watching this. 2018 outlander max 1000. My wife is wandering why she bought me a service manual.
Always nice to get hands on and learn your machine! I ended up going with the Mud'n Wheels rear diff and haven't had a problem since! Happy Trails John!
Great video Rob. “Not a mechanic blah blah blah...”. 😉You seem to do pretty well in my opinion! I would take you working on my ATV over the mechanics at the ‘stealership’ any day of the week! Wanted to ask you - if you don’t use a service manual how do you know what the toque specs are for all of the bolts, especially for important things like the driveline (yoke)?
Thanks Chris! If I need a torque value, I usually look it up on the web...I have a whole bunch written down now! LOL! Pretty tough to torque the driveline yokes...no room to fit a torque wrench in there. I go by feel and add some loctite...no problems! Thanks for commenting and tuning in!
@@RobFarrowATV How did you tighten the rear 13mm bolt? Is it meant to be held in by lock tite only or is it supposed to be torqued down. When I tighten it all the way, the shoulder of the yolk binds against the diff housing and I can't find a solution anywhere.
My rear diff took on water and the seal is bad. I will be doing this same process. It's not bad, I just did about 1/3 of the work as I had an tore outer cv boot that I had to remove and replace. I am upgrading all rear bushing to garage products bushings as well since I'll be in there. 24mm trailing arm nut BTW. Did you have to heat up the rear drive shaft bolts at all? The repair manual says they are loc-tited. And to re apply red loctite to them when installing. Thanks for the super helpful video Rob! I wasn't worried about this task but it's nice to see it all laid out!
I've had those drive shaft bolts off so many time and actually lost a couple before too. They came off with no major issues the first time I did it. Ya, almost need red loctite when putting them back in! Good luck with your machine repairs!
Well done video thanks , just want to double check is it ok to leave the axils in when you pull the diff, all I need to do is change the u-joint. thanks
Rob my man, how do you use the motorcycle lift to Jack the ATV? I got the same one and due to the floor boards can’t get the thing under it and the reach on that Jack isn’t far enough to get a ATV properly supported? You extend the platform on it or something?
Ya, I try and keep everything in it's own neat little piles for easier assembly. I've done this a few times now, so I'm getting better at remembering everything! LOL! Thanks for watching Biaritz!
Well this got me a bit nervous as I'm the second owner of an 2016 XMR 1000, the really long one with a long rear driveshaft and it's barely got any distance on it about 1400KM...
I think it's more the 2018 models that were affected but it doesn't hurt to check it out! If you've been having a leaking issue with the rear diff that could be the problem! I had a leaky diff almost from day one...finally had to buy a new diff from Mud'n Wheels and I haven't had an issue yet. Good luck with your machine and Happy Trails!
I have done all of this and it’s a great video. I cannot get the trailing arms to line up, the problem is inside of each trailing arm is a sleeve that down to stay in alignment. I can line it up outside of the instal but the minute I try and install it, you can hear the sleeve inside of each trailing arm fall out of alignment, please help with any suggestions.
Hmmm, interesting...That sleeve retains the bearings I believe. Any chance your bearings are messed up in there? can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/shop/for-sale/parts-.html Might have to pull the bearings and regrease around the sleeve, not sure exactly. Good Luck Gene!
Rob Farrow ATV found the cause, the sleeve in the middle liked to float around, but if you get it perfectly lined up with no stress on the bolt, it will slide right in. It is nice to have your wife on the other end to line it up, I lost my right eye sight in an accident but the other eye is starting to fail..I can still see ok and it’s not stoping me, not the reason why I couldn’t get it lined up though. Praise God for my wife. Just let everyone know to get it perfectly aligned.
Hi Rob. Great video as always! I'm looking for a little help please? I notice on some ATV videos they have a large upside down "U" shaped handlebar cross bridge. This would be very useful for me as I am a disabled rider. I have extensively searched the net and can not find what they are called much less a possible supplier! Any info greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Steve Allen ya not sure what they are called either...mud bar or something like that. They have them on snowmobiles also, powder bar I think the call them...I'm guessing mud bar or mud grab bar. Eh tv has one on his rene...he might know what it's called! Good luck Man!
Not sure but you can put a ruler from yoke to yoke and you should be able to tell if there's a major offset between the two yokes if the ruler isn't parallel with the shaft.
Hey Rob, my 2016 570L is giving me issues getting the bolt out of the trailing arm. Its a 24mm nut btw! Anyways, thats an issue because i need to remove my rear cv axle and change the wheel bearing. Any tips on how to get that bolt out? I tried beating it through with a hammer but its just still stuck and I'm scared to damage threads. Thanks!
That's a tough one, maybe try spray some kind of release spray at all the part gaps and tapping it with a rubber mallet before you bang on the bolt, the vibration cause the spray to go in further...also put the nut on the end of the threads so that you don't mess up the threads and also use a piece of wood against the nut. Last resort may be heat but be careful you don't damage the think steel on the parts! Good Luck and thanks for checking the vid out Cole!
...just made another big trip with my 10 year old h1- another 1000kms in 4 days- zero problems again - no sorry- the ignition switch went after 8000kms- could open and repair it- ordered a new one- 30 bucks...;-) just sayin...good luck man hope u can sort all this sht out...
I need your help, I disassemble the drive shaft, remove the two bolts from each side, the drive shaft comes out on the differential side, but on the side of the transmission, it remains blocked, as if it was completely rusted, how to do ?? Thanks from France
Ya it may be corrosion seized on there...try some releasing spray like liquid wrench or something to that tune and give it some taps with a rubber mallet or lightly with a hammer for starters. Might have to put some heat to it from a propane torch but watch the seals there! You may also try putting a strap on it and run it out the back end, attach a sled to it and swing it out...may break the shaft loose. Just try everything lightly at first...don't want to damage anything. Good Luck! I usually grease or put antiseize on axles and shafts when I put them back in.
@@RobFarrowATV thanks that what I figured. I appreciate it. I've been a tech for 17 yrs and recently started my own shop and have one of these with sloppy splines and I am going to replace the shaft.
I’m on my third rear diff now my shaft is out not twisted or anything I guess when they made it it was of the jig or something keeps blowing my needle bearings and eats my gears
Wow, that sucks! My Mud'n Wheels one just sprung a big leak, hoping it's just a seal but I'll have to take it back out to see what it is exactly! Good luck with yours! Thanks for watching!
There was an issue right from the factory on the newer ones apparently...but yes they could twist if you've got too much power, more likely to snap though! Thanks for tuning in Drew!
No the universal's were good...just checking that the shaft ends were lined up with each other, some of the newer ones are not and are out by quite a bit!
It's 100% from the factory. Same issue with g2 650xmr. Only run stock 28" tires during break in and there was already water in read diff. If you say 650 twists propshafts like 1000r renegades with 30"+ tires then there is something wrong with the quality.
Most aftermarket slip-on pipe's and a tuner will give you 3 to 5 hp, so they say. I did notice a difference on my machine. I really like the SPI exhaust which is similar to the RWJC pipe. It"s easy to repack the pipe and they should be repacked every couple years with heavy use. I can't remember what my tuner was called, sold it and got a reflash to the ECU instead. There are many brands out there for tuners and many different opinions. All depends what you want to spend and if you want it programmable. The reflash is certainly a great option and it ups the speed limiter and gets rid of the reverse limiter too. Happy Trails!
Primary spring size will make a smoother grab on the belt. If it's a stiffer spring the clutch will engage smoother and a tad bit slower than a weaker spring. A stronger spring will also grab the belt with more force to prevent slipping. Weights also come into effect on how smooth and fast the clutch will react...It's a fine art of tuning the clutch and they all work together. The secondary spring will provide the force for gripping the belt also. From what I understand about them, which isn't a lot! LOL!
I had lots of issues with water in the rear diff...had the seal changed twice and it still leaked. Finally I broke down and bought a Mud'n Wheels XMR rear diff and haven't had a problem with it in the two years now that I've been running it! If your machine is still in warranty get it checked out. If not, you may want to look at an aftermarket. Good Luck!
Rob Farrow ATV unfortunately it’s no in warranty it’s a 2019 570 xmr. Looking at changing the pinion seal. Called the dealer and they Quoted me over $500 to do the job so I’ll tackle it myself. Absolutely love my can am but wishing I went with Honda at this point. Love the channel!
Thanks Greggory! Ya 500 to do that is a joke! Loosen off the drive shaft bolts. Pull the bolts out of the diff and pull the diff back as far as the axles will let it go. Take out the bolts on the shaft and pull the drive shaft out. You can run a screw into the old seal but not too deep and pull the old seal out. Slide the new seal into place and use the old seal to bang on to seat the new seal. You might have to put a little heat just on the diff bolt to break the yellow BRP loctite. Check the wear ring on the shaft yoke, if you can feel ridges you might have to replace it. To do that I use a dremel grinder to cut it off carefull not to score the yoke. Put the yoke in the freezer and put some heat on the new wear ring and put it on by using a pc of wood and a rubber mallet on the wood. Use care when doing stuff and don't damage anything and you'll be good! Good Luck! There's a bunch of videos out there that may help some too.
When reassembling, I noticed when I tighten the rear 13mm bolt that holds the yolk to the diff, the shoulders of the yolk eventually bind against the diff housing and keep everything from spinning. If I back the bolt off half a turn than everything spins freely. There is only factory lock tite on the rear bolt so I thought maybe that one doesn't get torqued down but that doesn't seem right! What am I missing!?
@@RobFarrowATV Everything stops spinning. The shaft goes into the diff until the yolk gets tight against the diff housing than you can't turn the tires by hand
Ya, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull and line up a couple of the holes. It'll go, just have to put as many bolts in as you can and then use the strap to lift or push the diff to the next hole. Takes a bit. Good luck!
I think Can Am is going to loose it's following pretty soon...everyone it buying the big and powerful Rene 1000's and finding out they're just as bad as the Outlander's. If someone comes out with a wicked looking mud ready machine that seems decently built, people are going to switch rides in a few years! Can't believe Can Am has so many problems. If you have the money to blow and can afford to change everything on the machine, then it's a good machine but most people don't have that kind of money! Thanks for checking the video out!
No, don't have one...just learning as I go! I'm not a mechanic but I do have mechanical knowledge to a certain extent and I know my way is not always the only way! Just love working on the machine...but not as much as riding it! LOL! Thanks for tuning in Man!
Rob Farrow ATV thank you, I actually found a dealer today that would speak with me on the phone and picked one up. I appreciate you checking back with me
Rob Farrow ATV perfect! I had to yank it off with a strap so i found it on the frame! Thanks for the reply washer goes on the outside between the yoke bolt and diff or inside the yoke? Thanks again!
@@НиколайМирный-д9э Ya, that's the swingarm or Trailing arm bolt...what I call it anyway. Part 67 #706001664 Axial Pivot M16 $65.99 CAD... You can look it up here can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/shop/for-sale/parts-.html
The price of QC in japan and South Korea compared to here in America or Canada is the difference in quality of atv's and all vehicles. The price they pay for QC here is mind blowing.
For my 2016 250000359 Hex Flanged Screw M12 x 16 and 50200102 Flat Washer M12 holds the shaft to the Gearbox. Good luck and thanks for checking the vid out!
I would hate to get a tracked machine stuck in the skeg, would be next to impossible to get out! Only tracked machine I've seen in the skeg was a argo and it has the track around all 4 wheels on each side, so it runs pretty well on top! Tracks also use a lot of gas and you can get the speed of the other ATV's...just my opinion anyway! Thanks Man!
LOL! You should be able to eye ball the alignment of the shaft, if it looks way outta whack, I'd check it but if not, I wouldn't worry! Depends on what kinda riding you are planning on doing also, more aggressive stuff and you'll have to watch and keep up on the maintenance, more trail riding and I don't think you'll have too many issues! Congrats on the new ride and Happy Trails!
If you have to spend that much time working on a semi new atv, it's not worth having and a waste of money. The Japanese are better at building them although not perfect either.
i like that you show every step of the work, if you are a beginner its very helpful because its small details that nobody else tell you
Thank You!
Thanks for the great quality and informative videos. My 2015 650xt rear diff was leaking. Asked dealer to repair seal. They ended up replacing diff and driveshaft! 5000kms on bike and I'd say I'm a slightly aggressive trail rider. I don't mud much but love atving in snow. Cost me 50 bucks with the aftermarket warranty. So far the $2kish warranty has paid for itself twice. I bought the bike used at the dealer and the warranty came with the bike. It was owner transferrable. 5 year warranty 50 deductable. Definately going to look into a set of Ratchet wrenches. Thanks again for the great vids.
Wow, that's a good break to have had the extended warranty! Glad you are enjoying the vids, lots more to come! Thanks for tuning in Mark!
I’ve had to use your videos as reference three or four times now. My latest tear down is for the rear diff seal. Thanks for taking the time to post and for the easy to understand explanations.
Thanks Kurt! Glad the vids helped you!
OmF why can’t everyone do videos this good. Great job lad. Thanks a ton be well and stay healthy
Thanks Man! Glad you enjoyed the vid!
Wow a table and an iPhone, super precise measurement devices
I just wanted to let you know I appreciate the video, I replaced my pinion seal after watching this. 2018 outlander max 1000. My wife is wandering why she bought me a service manual.
Always nice to get hands on and learn your machine! I ended up going with the Mud'n Wheels rear diff and haven't had a problem since! Happy Trails John!
thanks Rob,
Great informative video. I was looking how to do a rear output seal on tranny was no buds this was tge closes one on it. Great job
Thanks Man! Glad the video was helpful.
This made my life so much easier. Thanks bud!
No problem, glad it helped you Matthew!
Good Stuff Rob ... Thanks for shar'in !!!
Thanks Gunny! Hope it helped you out! Thanks for watching!
Great video Rob. “Not a mechanic blah blah blah...”. 😉You seem to do pretty well in my opinion! I would take you working on my ATV over the mechanics at the ‘stealership’ any day of the week!
Wanted to ask you - if you don’t use a service manual how do you know what the toque specs are for all of the bolts, especially for important things like the driveline (yoke)?
Thanks Chris! If I need a torque value, I usually look it up on the web...I have a whole bunch written down now! LOL! Pretty tough to torque the driveline yokes...no room to fit a torque wrench in there. I go by feel and add some loctite...no problems! Thanks for commenting and tuning in!
@@RobFarrowATV How did you tighten the rear 13mm bolt? Is it meant to be held in by lock tite only or is it supposed to be torqued down. When I tighten it all the way, the shoulder of the yolk binds against the diff housing and I can't find a solution anywhere.
My rear diff took on water and the seal is bad. I will be doing this same process. It's not bad, I just did about 1/3 of the work as I had an tore outer cv boot that I had to remove and replace. I am upgrading all rear bushing to garage products bushings as well since I'll be in there. 24mm trailing arm nut BTW. Did you have to heat up the rear drive shaft bolts at all? The repair manual says they are loc-tited. And to re apply red loctite to them when installing.
Thanks for the super helpful video Rob! I wasn't worried about this task but it's nice to see it all laid out!
I will also be greasing the rear wheel bearings with my new bearing grease tool.
I've had those drive shaft bolts off so many time and actually lost a couple before too. They came off with no major issues the first time I did it. Ya, almost need red loctite when putting them back in! Good luck with your machine repairs!
interesting, i have a renegade xmr and today after a ride i saw some leaking on the rear diff at the driveshaft, probably its the seal, nice vid btw
Thanks! Good luck on your repairs!
Good Job there Rob !!!
Thanks Gunny, glad you enjoyed the vid!
Great detail good work rob
Thanks Man, glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
great vid man even thou your shaft is "acceptable" it was woth the time and effor to check it out
Thanks! Yes, I thought so also, glad it was okay! Still have to send you that other diff! Take Care and thanks for checking the vid out!
Great vidio Rob like always , Rob do you know if i have to remove my a arm to grease my rear bearing
You don't have to remove the arm completely, just at the hub and just the lower one. Think I have a video of this process posted somewhere. Good luck!
Well done video thanks , just want to double check is it ok to leave the axils in when you pull the diff, all I need to do is change the u-joint. thanks
Yep, just unbolt the diff and pull it back and inch or so till you can pull the drive shaft out. Good luck!
Rob my man, how do you use the motorcycle lift to Jack the ATV? I got the same one and due to the floor boards can’t get the thing under it and the reach on that Jack isn’t far enough to get a ATV properly supported? You extend the platform on it or something?
I put a concrete block on the jack and it seems to fit from frame member to frame member. Also raises the ATV high enough to work on. Good luck.
Grea videos! Keep them coming
Thanks Man!
Great video. Was looking to remove back axels. On my outlander. Did u change bearings on them?
Never had to change bearings in 6,000kms, greased them every few rides since new.
could you get everything back the correct way? looked like quite a puzzle!
Ya, I try and keep everything in it's own neat little piles for easier assembly. I've done this a few times now, so I'm getting better at remembering everything! LOL! Thanks for watching Biaritz!
Well this got me a bit nervous as I'm the second owner of an 2016 XMR 1000, the really long one with a long rear driveshaft and it's barely got any distance on it about 1400KM...
I think it's more the 2018 models that were affected but it doesn't hurt to check it out! If you've been having a leaking issue with the rear diff that could be the problem! I had a leaky diff almost from day one...finally had to buy a new diff from Mud'n Wheels and I haven't had an issue yet. Good luck with your machine and Happy Trails!
Did you use any loctite and if so what color to put the yoke bolts in?
I've resorted to red loctite as I've had the bolts come loose a couple of times even with blue...
I have done all of this and it’s a great video. I cannot get the trailing arms to line up, the problem is inside of each trailing arm is a sleeve that down to stay in alignment. I can line it up outside of the instal but the minute I try and install it, you can hear the sleeve inside of each trailing arm fall out of alignment, please help with any suggestions.
Hmmm, interesting...That sleeve retains the bearings I believe. Any chance your bearings are messed up in there? can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/shop/for-sale/parts-.html Might have to pull the bearings and regrease around the sleeve, not sure exactly. Good Luck Gene!
Rob Farrow ATV found the cause, the sleeve in the middle liked to float around, but if you get it perfectly lined up with no stress on the bolt, it will slide right in. It is nice to have your wife on the other end to line it up, I lost my right eye sight in an accident but the other eye is starting to fail..I can still see ok and it’s not stoping me, not the reason why I couldn’t get it lined up though. Praise God for my wife. Just let everyone know to get it perfectly aligned.
Glad you figured it out! Ya definitely pays to have a second set of hands sometimes!
Hi Rob. Great video as always! I'm looking for a little help please? I notice on some ATV videos they have a large upside down "U" shaped handlebar cross bridge. This would be very useful for me as I am a disabled rider. I have extensively searched the net and can not find what they are called much less a possible supplier! Any info greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Steve Allen ya not sure what they are called either...mud bar or something like that. They have them on snowmobiles also, powder bar I think the call them...I'm guessing mud bar or mud grab bar. Eh tv has one on his rene...he might know what it's called! Good luck Man!
Thank you Rob! It's a good starting point!
Just bought a FLY Snowmobile "mountain bar" (not much snow in blighty so it's a learning curve)! THANK YOU!
No Problem, hope it works out for you!
i have a 2019 Outlander 570 (Base). is the driveshaft in mine known to have phasing issues?
Not sure but you can put a ruler from yoke to yoke and you should be able to tell if there's a major offset between the two yokes if the ruler isn't parallel with the shaft.
Hey Rob, my 2016 570L is giving me issues getting the bolt out of the trailing arm. Its a 24mm nut btw! Anyways, thats an issue because i need to remove my rear cv axle and change the wheel bearing. Any tips on how to get that bolt out? I tried beating it through with a hammer but its just still stuck and I'm scared to damage threads. Thanks!
That's a tough one, maybe try spray some kind of release spray at all the part gaps and tapping it with a rubber mallet before you bang on the bolt, the vibration cause the spray to go in further...also put the nut on the end of the threads so that you don't mess up the threads and also use a piece of wood against the nut. Last resort may be heat but be careful you don't damage the think steel on the parts! Good Luck and thanks for checking the vid out Cole!
...just made another big trip with my 10 year old h1- another 1000kms in 4 days- zero problems again - no sorry- the ignition switch went after 8000kms- could open and repair it- ordered a new one- 30 bucks...;-) just sayin...good luck man hope u can sort all this sht out...
Nice! That is a big trip! The machine is running good now, everything is the way I like it and no problems this year so far! Thanks for tuning in!
What Loctite did you use for the 13mm pinion bolt on the rear diff ?
I used Blue 743...but I think a little red wouldn't hurt
What do you use for a lift when working on your bike? Also.. who makes those trailing arm skid plates?
The Skid plates are made by Ricochet and I use a Canadian Tire ATV hydraulic jack. Thanks for checking the vid out Phillip!
Wonderful video 💪🏾
Thanks Rickey Bones!
Holly shit bat man thats a lot to take out so can check it lol nice job .
LOL! Ya, wanted to show what was involved to tear the rear apart...no need to do all that to take out the shaft though. Thanks for watching!
Helps a lot thanks
I need your help, I disassemble the drive shaft, remove the two bolts from each side, the drive shaft comes out on the differential side, but on the side of the transmission, it remains blocked, as if it was completely rusted,
how to do ??
Thanks from France
Ya it may be corrosion seized on there...try some releasing spray like liquid wrench or something to that tune and give it some taps with a rubber mallet or lightly with a hammer for starters. Might have to put some heat to it from a propane torch but watch the seals there! You may also try putting a strap on it and run it out the back end, attach a sled to it and swing it out...may break the shaft loose. Just try everything lightly at first...don't want to damage anything. Good Luck! I usually grease or put antiseize on axles and shafts when I put them back in.
@@RobFarrowATV Thank's !!!!
Great video! How many hrs would you say it takes to do this job? 3?
To just take out the shaft is probably about an hour max. Tow remove all the stuff I did, ya maybe 3 max and it gets easier the more you do it! LOL!
@@RobFarrowATV thanks that what I figured. I appreciate it. I've been a tech for 17 yrs and recently started my own shop and have one of these with sloppy splines and I am going to replace the shaft.
I’m on my third rear diff now my shaft is out not twisted or anything I guess when they made it it was of the jig or something keeps blowing my needle bearings and eats my gears
Wow, that sucks! My Mud'n Wheels one just sprung a big leak, hoping it's just a seal but I'll have to take it back out to see what it is exactly! Good luck with yours! Thanks for watching!
Headphone warning when he uses the impact lol
LOL! And I tried to turn down the impact noise on the video! Thanks for watching Cody!
Rob how does the Drive Shaft come out of phase does it just twist under load or is it set up from the manufacturer incorrectly?
There was an issue right from the factory on the newer ones apparently...but yes they could twist if you've got too much power, more likely to snap though! Thanks for tuning in Drew!
Rob Farrow ATV Where your universal joints loose? Or not square in the yokes?
No the universal's were good...just checking that the shaft ends were lined up with each other, some of the newer ones are not and are out by quite a bit!
It's 100% from the factory. Same issue with g2 650xmr. Only run stock 28" tires during break in and there was already water in read diff. If you say 650 twists propshafts like 1000r renegades with 30"+ tires then there is something wrong with the quality.
Hello I have a 19 can am 850 what the best bang for your buck exhaust tuner and spring and will I feel a difference
Most aftermarket slip-on pipe's and a tuner will give you 3 to 5 hp, so they say. I did notice a difference on my machine. I really like the SPI exhaust which is similar to the RWJC pipe. It"s easy to repack the pipe and they should be repacked every couple years with heavy use. I can't remember what my tuner was called, sold it and got a reflash to the ECU instead. There are many brands out there for tuners and many different opinions. All depends what you want to spend and if you want it programmable. The reflash is certainly a great option and it ups the speed limiter and gets rid of the reverse limiter too. Happy Trails!
@@RobFarrowATV thank what's the propose of the clutch spring
Primary spring size will make a smoother grab on the belt. If it's a stiffer spring the clutch will engage smoother and a tad bit slower than a weaker spring. A stronger spring will also grab the belt with more force to prevent slipping. Weights also come into effect on how smooth and fast the clutch will react...It's a fine art of tuning the clutch and they all work together. The secondary spring will provide the force for gripping the belt also. From what I understand about them, which isn't a lot! LOL!
Just noticed my diff had water in it upon further inspection noticed the pinion seal had oil on it. Did you have issues with water in the diff?
I had lots of issues with water in the rear diff...had the seal changed twice and it still leaked. Finally I broke down and bought a Mud'n Wheels XMR rear diff and haven't had a problem with it in the two years now that I've been running it! If your machine is still in warranty get it checked out. If not, you may want to look at an aftermarket. Good Luck!
Rob Farrow ATV unfortunately it’s no in warranty it’s a 2019 570 xmr. Looking at changing the pinion seal. Called the dealer and they Quoted me over $500 to do the job so I’ll tackle it myself. Absolutely love my can am but wishing I went with Honda at this point. Love the channel!
Thanks Greggory! Ya 500 to do that is a joke! Loosen off the drive shaft bolts. Pull the bolts out of the diff and pull the diff back as far as the axles will let it go. Take out the bolts on the shaft and pull the drive shaft out. You can run a screw into the old seal but not too deep and pull the old seal out. Slide the new seal into place and use the old seal to bang on to seat the new seal. You might have to put a little heat just on the diff bolt to break the yellow BRP loctite. Check the wear ring on the shaft yoke, if you can feel ridges you might have to replace it. To do that I use a dremel grinder to cut it off carefull not to score the yoke. Put the yoke in the freezer and put some heat on the new wear ring and put it on by using a pc of wood and a rubber mallet on the wood. Use care when doing stuff and don't damage anything and you'll be good! Good Luck! There's a bunch of videos out there that may help some too.
Rob Farrow ATV thanks so much! Keep up the good work on the channel!
Thanks!
When reassembling, I noticed when I tighten the rear 13mm bolt that holds the yolk to the diff, the shoulders of the yolk eventually bind against the diff housing and keep everything from spinning. If I back the bolt off half a turn than everything spins freely. There is only factory lock tite on the rear bolt so I thought maybe that one doesn't get torqued down but that doesn't seem right! What am I missing!?
Not sure, everything should be tightened down...what stops spinning? Thanks for tuning in!
@@RobFarrowATV Everything stops spinning. The shaft goes into the diff until the yolk gets tight against the diff housing than you can't turn the tires by hand
All there is there is a bolt and washer...is the washer there, might be going in too far without the washer?
Dumb question but is the machine in nuetral when you try to spin it...brakes aren't locked? Just making sure!
Yoke shouldn't sit tight against the diff...
Hey guys I need some advice i just got a new rear diff and I can not line up all 4 bolts on the differential.
I’m working on a 2013 can am outlander 1000 xmr
Ya, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull and line up a couple of the holes. It'll go, just have to put as many bolts in as you can and then use the strap to lift or push the diff to the next hole. Takes a bit. Good luck!
Thanks man I had it lifted up via chain pulley so I put a jack under it and slowly let it down until the holes lined up
You seen those ATVs that convert into a jet ski? That's what you need. lol
Ya, seen them. LOL! If it was mud ready and looked a little meaner...maybe! ;-) Thanks for checking the video out Randy!
I keep seeing this issue and I'm not excited about it. Blows my mind that this has been happening so long.
I think Can Am is going to loose it's following pretty soon...everyone it buying the big and powerful Rene 1000's and finding out they're just as bad as the Outlander's. If someone comes out with a wicked looking mud ready machine that seems decently built, people are going to switch rides in a few years! Can't believe Can Am has so many problems. If you have the money to blow and can afford to change everything on the machine, then it's a good machine but most people don't have that kind of money! Thanks for checking the video out!
Rob Farrow ATV I hear you, I spent about 22k on my set up, and it seems all I hear is upgrades and repairs.
Should have gone with Suzuki.... Can Ams are great, when EVERYTHING is working properly. They can be a pain in the A$$ though.......
Hi Rob, do you have a tech manual for your can-am?
No, don't have one...just learning as I go! I'm not a mechanic but I do have mechanical knowledge to a certain extent and I know my way is not always the only way! Just love working on the machine...but not as much as riding it! LOL! Thanks for tuning in Man!
Does anyone know the size of bolt to hold the rear yolk onto the rear diff? Or where to purchase? Mine is missing for a 2015 canam 450 outlander
From the BRP site... 250000615 Hex Flanged Screwv M10 X 16 Needs the washer also 250200014 Flat Washer M10. Thanks for checking the vid out!
Rob Farrow ATV thank you, I actually found a dealer today that would speak with me on the phone and picked one up. I appreciate you checking back with me
Awesome! Good Luck!
2022 here, ordered a new one and it came from the factory within spec..
Nice, happy trails!
Soooo.... I assume you have the “better” diff because it’s an XMR?
Had all kinds of problems with the stock rear diff for 2 years, once I changed to the Mud 'n Wheel rear diff I haven't had an issue in 3 years!
Is that swing arm bolt supposed to be greased
No but I grease it with some waterproof lithium grease so that it won't corrode and get stuck in there.
Ok i just removed mine and it was bone dry with like a white coating
This video was so helpful!! 1 question is there a washer on each side of the drive shaft?
Glad it was helpful! Yes, washer and bolt on each end of the shaft...
Rob Farrow ATV perfect! I had to yank it off with a strap so i found it on the frame! Thanks for the reply washer goes on the outside between the yoke bolt and diff or inside the yoke? Thanks again!
Washer goes on the bolt...
Rob Farrow ATV thank you sir! My u joint was wore so badly that the actual shaft was wearing into the yoke on the transmission side
Wow...change both u joints!
Pliz tell me the length of the bolt (the axis ) in cm , which holds 2 of the lever?
Sorry, I'm not sure which bolt you are referring to...trailing arm bolt?
@@RobFarrowATV A long bolt that holds the 2 levers together. Rear suspension I want to know its length ), thanks for the answer
@@RobFarrowATV 5:47 min You get it
@@НиколайМирный-д9э Ya, that's the swingarm or Trailing arm bolt...what I call it anyway. Part 67 #706001664 Axial Pivot M16 $65.99 CAD... You can look it up here can-am.brp.com/off-road/ca/en/shop/for-sale/parts-.html
Did you change something? Why did you tear down everything?
Had to check the Driveshaft phase and wanted to show everyone how to do a complete teardown on the rear end. Thanks for watching!
@@RobFarrowATV ok but you still have the rear diff problem? Got same problem as you with my 2017 XMR 570 .. always full of water
Haven't had a diff problem since I bought the Mud'n Wheels XMR diff last spring
The price of QC in japan and South Korea compared to here in America or Canada is the difference in quality of atv's and all vehicles.
The price they pay for QC here is mind blowing.
Thanks for the info and thanks for tuning in Man!
Hey rob I cant seem to find a part # for the bolt holding rear prop shaft to the gearbox output shaft dont suppose you have that written down eh ?
For my 2016 250000359 Hex Flanged Screw M12 x 16 and 50200102 Flat Washer M12 holds the shaft to the Gearbox. Good luck and thanks for checking the vid out!
@@RobFarrowATV thanks a bunch man huge help.
I would of tried the level with it installed on the machine
Wouldn't have made a very good video then! LOL! Thanks for tuning in Ryan!
Rob Farrow ATV when you putting apache 360's on? I want your review before I put them on my 1000xmr lol
No plans for Apache's at this time...have a sled for winter and there's really no one to ride with in the winter with tracks!
Rob Farrow ATV what about summer time skeg? Tracks no good for that?
I would hate to get a tracked machine stuck in the skeg, would be next to impossible to get out! Only tracked machine I've seen in the skeg was a argo and it has the track around all 4 wheels on each side, so it runs pretty well on top! Tracks also use a lot of gas and you can get the speed of the other ATV's...just my opinion anyway! Thanks Man!
Fuck man, this got me stressed. I just picked up an 18 570 xmr today.
LOL! You should be able to eye ball the alignment of the shaft, if it looks way outta whack, I'd check it but if not, I wouldn't worry! Depends on what kinda riding you are planning on doing also, more aggressive stuff and you'll have to watch and keep up on the maintenance, more trail riding and I don't think you'll have too many issues! Congrats on the new ride and Happy Trails!
@@RobFarrowATV thanks man im glad to hear that
everything on a can am is either 18 or 13 mil
15 or 13 I would think...makes it pretty easy to work with a few tools anyway.
If you have to spend that much time working on a semi new atv, it's not worth having and a waste of money. The Japanese are better at building them although not perfect either.