Thanks for the video - as a point for conversation, I recently purchased a CVTech primary for my 2021 Outlander850 and there are several revisions on my clutch vs the one in the video. First - the weight is still on the clutch, but is not black. It is a silver finish with a tint of gold in it. Second - and what is most notable, is the main shaft on the clutch is machined with a step in it to eliminate the "stroke limiter". Mine has two "shims" now where the limiter in this video is, and is shimmed perfectly so that the sheaves almost touch. One shim is approx 1mm thick, the second is .2mm thick. Third - all of the steel components have a grey coating on them. No bare steel anywhere.
That is an amazing price on that CVTech! I paid around $700 with the proper calibration for my XMR. I'm also not running the stroke limiter but have kept the counterweight on it. Bang for the buck its the best performance upgrade you can do to a Can-Am. The smaller one way bearing also lets the Belt ride lower giving you a better starting ratio, especially important with anyone running large mud tires like the XMR comes with from the factory. Great video with helpful tips!
Yup I paid around same $700 for my first CVTech on the Outlander. Was a great deal I couldn't say no for the second clutch. Xmas is coming and I think a STM secondary might be under the tree for John. The CVTech work so well with the STM it's almost a must.
Just did mine this morning on my 2011 Outlander 800xt... don't get me wrong I knew you weren't bullshitting us when you said to remove the back plate and stroke limiter but Damn :D She's lifting up like nothing now.... thanks to you Frankie I got this clutch, I needed to get my stock clutch done and it was twice as much, best money spent on my atv since I got it!!!
I know that feeling. Took me a while too. But when you get it, it's a great feeling. It snappy as hell and buttery smooth when you want it. I've never had to change my belt again ever since I added this clutch and I ride a lot in high gear. Thank you for sharing your experience. It always feels nice to know these videos are helping someone out there.
Good video Frankie. I just want to point out that the sheaves are punch indexed on the outer edges to help realign them properly & so are the newer caps with both the warning sticker location & a small punch indent. (I do still mark mine when doing calibrations) I've never heard of guys removing the counter balancer though. As you can see on the backside it's been drilled BALANCING it perfectly to the clutch, so I would be a bit afraid of not using that... Also a better practice with that stroke limiter is shaving it down and re-installing it so you don't have sheave issues coming closed too far spitting a belt. -wowchad
Thanks for the heads up on the sheaves punch index. I really didn't notice them but I will have to take a closer look next time. When I first got the clutch, I really struggled with it to get it setup to my liking. Spoke with several people about stroke limiter, balance counter weight, which spring to use, helix angle of secondary etc.... Everyone had different opinions and I never liked the way it ran and I could never reach top speed. It was either a rev monster or it just bogged down my engine with too much weight. I tried it all. Different springs, helix, with and without stoker and balance weight until I got it where I like it. At the end of the day my message is. Don't be afraid to experiment. We all don't have same riding style and setup, so you need to tweak as you like it for what you do. I think I'm the only guy on the internet that is running a 1010 primary spring plus shim with the lightest weights, no stroker and no counter weight and I love it. I'm not try to say this is how all trail machines should be setup. It's just how I like it. Thanks again for you input Chad.
thanks for the video it was very helpful. I recently got my cv tech clutch but I'm not happy with it and I need some help. there was a drop-down bar when I was purchasing this clutch that was asking what size tires, I selected 29/30's but definitely not working right, I have a 2023 outlander xmr with K&N intake and full HMF Titan Exhaust the bike also is tuned with dyno jet power vision 3 running ATV Terminators 29.5X10X14 on MSA Wheels, my stall/Engagement went from 1800 stock clutch to 2900 RPM that's way to high and also, I know that the clutch is slipping is not grabbing the belt hard. when I get on my bike, and I hit the throttle, and the rpm jumps up the bike starts to pull but there is time where I fell the belt slipping cause out of the sudden you can hear the motor RPM spike up a bit then grabs again. my stock was running way better :) if any of you guys can tell me what weight and spring, I should run I would gladly appreciate
Fixed plate mods and clutch kits work awesome for all brands with rollers But Can Am is better to replace the whole unit like you said. If you do the secondary as well I think it will eliminate burning up belts with better engagement. A must for all Can Am's. Great upgrade vid Frankie
Biggest problem with stock Can Am clutches is the inner and outer sleeves don't lock. So even with clutch kit they will still slip and burn belts and loose performance. STM Secondary roller clutch will be the next step. I already have it on the Outty and works really well with the Cvtech. A few years back I purchased a couple QSC fixed clutch kits for our previous machines and always felt it was a waste of money. Thanks for commenting
Good to know, Buddy just switched to the STM and wow I think large difference. I think they all take a little fine tuning to get the most out of them eh. Thx for the feed back will come in useful if I jump on the Can Am train.
That new clutch looks nice. It's a simple design, similar to a stock Grizzly clutch, only a Grizzly clutch stays engaged all the time. Thanks for sharing!
You prolly dont care but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Walter Marcel I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Amazing video! I have a few questions. 1: when you remove the backplate what does that do in terms of performance? 2: when you go heavier on the weights what does that do for performance? I have a cvtech primary myself and I was thinking about doing some tuning to it
Removing back plate I don't think it makes it any faster but it just gives you a quicker throttle response when on/off the throttle. It's just what I'm used to. If I put it back on, it makes my machine feel lazy. I wouldn't recommend this if you like sitting in water a lot. The heavy mass helps keep the engine idle at low rpms. When it comes to weights, think of it as low gear and high gear. The more weight you add the more it wants to switch into high gear, not enough weight then it may never get into high gear. I find it's easier to start light and work your way heavier. Starting light your machine should feel like a screamer. Typically this is usually paired with a 1016 or 1017 spring. There are so many combinations and variables that it's very difficult just to summarize it in one sentence.
@@FrankiesChannel Ah I see. In that case I'm gonna keep the back plat on and as for the weights. I have a 1017 spring so I might try to go a little heavier on the weights
@@FrankiesChannel whether by removing the back plate we get a stronger jump and power shock when moving and whether it can increase the transmission clunk sound when we move
What weights and spring did you end up using on john's bike and whats on yours. I think i might order a cvtech but don't even know where to start. i am going to a 28" tire so a little larger and heavier than what you 2 run on your machines.
I just picked up the clutch off the shelf from Royal and I'm pretty sure it was setup for large tire mud application. It came with 1017 Spring with 2005 weight. I don't like this setup for trail riding so I switched it to 1016 and added washers on top of the 2005 weights. Total weights+washer+sliders=156 grams. I still need to test this setup, only did quick run up and down our street. Hopefully weather gets better and we can get out to finish setup. My outlander has STM secondary, so it's a completely different setup. 1010 spring with a shim and 154 grams total weight. I like low engagement so I needed to add a shim to prevent the machine from creeping forward while sitting idle. It took me months before I was happy to find my setup. If I remember correctly the basic setup to start with is 1016 with 2006 weights. Most guys just start here and tweak the weights depending on tire size and weight. 28" Zilla vs 28 Bighorn would have a different setup since bighorn run true to size and are heavier. So unless you can find another machine with exact same setup. It will be hard for me to just say go with this setup. But it's a start. If you need help after you get it. Just PM me.
put the cv tech clutch on the outlander 570, now I have the sound of klank and klunk when I move from place and twitch 3 or 4 times when moving and the strap then makes a sound wau wau, please advice
I have a 06 outlander 800 with a 2012 digitune pro and two brothers racing slipon also this cvtech primary and 27" tires I haven't done this mod YET LOL what should my top speed be on the bike i top out at 52 but don't stay in it once it it climbs fast until it hits 51-52 then just stops and I let off it but fell like she should be running 70 mph after all it is a 800. I've had Honda rancher 420 4x4 with 28s that did 54mph with no mods except the wheels and tires
Basically you're trying to get your clutch to rev between 7200 to 7600 rpm and that should take you right up to your speed limiter of 70 mph. If you're below 7200 then you have too much primary weight, if you're above 7600 then you don't enough weight. If you are in between those numbers then the stroke limiter could be keeping your from reaching top speed or you have a stiff finishing spring on primary or secondary. It's basically a balancing act. There are so many factors. Spring rates, weights helix angles. But there is a site on facebook that have many guys that can help you out. It's call Can Am Clutching and tuning.
Interesting. I know nothing about CVT clutches. What does the stroke limiter do & why did you take it out? Why did you take the black plate off the back side of the clutch?
Stroke limiter limits the amount the clutches will close. It's there to prevent the belt from riding to far up and over the sleeves. But I found that it prevents me from reaching that final gear. With it I found I struggled to reach my speed limiter of 125km/h. With it off I can get right up to max speed. The back plate acts like a fly wheel and is needed for the harmonic balance and Cvtech doesn't recommend removing it. It kinda matches the weight of the stock clutch. By removing the plate the clutch is extremely light and the snap and throttle response is so addicting that I didn't want to put it back on. I spoke with a few performance shops about it and they all don't seem to concerned. So I've been running for a few years like this with no issues. Maybe I should've commented about this in the video. But I was just thinking it was a Black Friday deal and giving John an upgrade to his machine. But thanks for asking. I sure others would probably ask the same thing.
Have you had any idle issues with the back plate removed in your outlander? have you had the cvt cover off to inspect your sliders and other components for premature wear due to the backplate removal? thinking of taking mine off but wanted more info on doing this
Good Tip!! I forgot all about that. When I first got my clutch a few years back. I was struggling to get it setup and I couldn't reach top speed. So I tried the marker on the sheave trick. John seems to be liking the new clutch. When I'm editing video and watch he's camera. I see him constantly popping the front end up every chance he gets.
I have the CVTech on my Outlander for a few years now. That's why I bought a second one for my son. In my opinion anyone running big mud tires on a Can Am. It's a must to change out the primary clutch. The stock primary sheaves don't lock together and this is where the major problem is for burning belts.
Why exactly do you remove the stroke limiter or for that matter the back-plate? Just curious as i'm considering getting a CVtech for my 2012 650 Max XT
When I first starting adjusting the clutch. I was having a difficult time reaching top speed and thought maybe it was the stroke limiter. Basically it limits the clutch from closing too far and reaching a higher gear where not to drive the belt past it's limits. You would need a hell of a lot hp to push the belt past it's limits. So I got rid of it. Secondly the backplate is used for harmonic balance and helps keep the engine turning at low idle. If you like mudding chances are you would be sitting idle stuck in the mud a lot and or deep water. This would help keep the engine idling and help prevent engine stall especially if your exhaust is underwater. Now you're probably wondering why the heck I would remove the backplate. lol.. Because I like fast trail riding and throttle response is much quicker and makes the machine much snappier. It won't make machine faster but getting on and off the throttle in and out of corners makes the machine quicker. I've tried putting it back just to be safe but for me it just feels to sluggish once I got used to no plate. My machine has never stalled without the plate but the risk is there. So if you do decide to try it and you find your machine doesn't idle well. Then leave it on. Hope this gives you a better understanding of the clutch.
Hey frankie, I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a cvtech for my new '18 1000 XMR renegade... coming from a '12 renegade 1000 xxc, the shift out on this new machine just isn't the same for some reason, even with 27" trail tires.. My old renegade's shift out was perfect stock, it was around 7250RPM, but this new machine just isn't that, I mean the stock clutch turns the 30" cryptids fine, but the shift out is like 7000-7100 RPM, which stinks. What do you think about the cvtech?
Hey buddy!! Good to see you back on a ATV. Thought you pretty much gave up on them after you got the bike. The trick with CVTech is all in picking the right spring to match your tires. Typically these clutches come with either a 1016 or 1017 spring which both have the same starting engagement but different finish rates. You normally see trail riders with 1016 and mud runners with 1017. If you feel the machine is bogged down and not enough punch. Then first try dropping the weight by either ordering lighter weights or drilling them out. You can always add washer or pennies if you take too much off. Also another sign of too much weight is when the machine is creeping while in gear or hard shifting. You don't need to drill or shift all 6 weights. You can change them in any combination of 2,3,4 and 6. Best advice I can give you is don't get discouraged. I know I did when I first got mine. Just keep fooling around with different combinations until you find what feels best to you. It's a great clutch, just needs to be tweaked to your liking. Good luck buddy!
It's definitely hard to find time between work, college, adulating, and toys to squeeze youtube in there, but I'm trying my best. I did end up ordering the cvtech and it'll be at my doorstep tomorrow night. I'm not worried about adjusting it, because to me it's all common sense. These clutches are super easy to understand, it's just the matter of finding what will work best for me. I ordered it for my 1000 XMR so it might even come set up pretty decent, but I'm surely excited to get it!!
Oh shit. I miss read your first question. I thought it read you already had the CVTech and had bad results. Sorry my bad. Yah for sure you will like it. First thing you will notice is the belt pinch. It grabs really well. Have fun with the new clutch and machine. I'll be watching out for it.
Hey Frankie. Wondering if you've seen this issue.... I just installed a cvtech primary on my 1000 gade, and it has a loud clacking sound coming from the primary while at idle. Goes away with increased rpm. Im going to take the unit apart when i get a chance, just wondering if you had an idea of what to be looking for. Great channel btw!
You should hear any clunk noise. I wondering if maybe when it was installed if the outside sheave was locked into the key slot before tightening the bolt. I did that once and it made a funny clunk noise. Just make sure before you tighten the primary bolt. You push the outside sheave in and turn it. You should feel it lock in. Then hold it there and tighten.
Frankie great videos. Love the channel I have questions (pick your brain) on cvtech spring primary and weights that have been confusing some clutch guys on my CanAm. How can I get a hold of you? Thanks!
hey frankie I just picked up the same cvtech clutch for my outlander just had question by taking that back plate off just wanted to no what are the advantages and disadvantages by doing so >? not really lookin for top speed just low and torque and mid range and I'm just running my stock secondary
The purpose of back plate is for harmonic balance and also acts like counter weight on a fly wheel. I spoke to several performance shops and some say leave it and some say take it out. So I just figured to try both setups and see what feels best for me. With plate off it has wicked throttle response then when you put it back on. Feels a little sluggish. So you know how it is once you get a taste for something. I always left it off ever since 2013. Only downside that I've noticed is when cold, the idle is a little rougher because of lack of rotating mass. So if your sitting on the fence trying to decide. Just try both setups and see for yourself and decide.
perfect well that made my mind up and I no once I take it off and try it ill garentee keep it off thanks for the quick response come spring hopefully get out with you guys and ride !!!
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Thanks for the video - as a point for conversation, I recently purchased a CVTech primary for my 2021 Outlander850 and there are several revisions on my clutch vs the one in the video. First - the weight is still on the clutch, but is not black. It is a silver finish with a tint of gold in it. Second - and what is most notable, is the main shaft on the clutch is machined with a step in it to eliminate the "stroke limiter". Mine has two "shims" now where the limiter in this video is, and is shimmed perfectly so that the sheaves almost touch. One shim is approx 1mm thick, the second is .2mm thick. Third - all of the steel components have a grey coating on them. No bare steel anywhere.
That is an amazing price on that CVTech! I paid around $700 with the proper calibration for my XMR. I'm also not running the stroke limiter but have kept the counterweight on it. Bang for the buck its the best performance upgrade you can do to a Can-Am. The smaller one way bearing also lets the Belt ride lower giving you a better starting ratio, especially important with anyone running large mud tires like the XMR comes with from the factory. Great video with helpful tips!
Yup I paid around same $700 for my first CVTech on the Outlander. Was a great deal I couldn't say no for the second clutch. Xmas is coming and I think a STM secondary might be under the tree for John. The CVTech work so well with the STM it's almost a must.
And it's awesome that my cheap ass CF Moto ZForce came with CVTech clutching from the factory bone stock!!
Excellent video A CV Tech primary is definitely the next upgrade for my Renegade
For the price it’s an excellent clutch. Just make sure you get the correct Spring and weight combination from whom ever you order.
Thanks for the info
Just did mine this morning on my 2011 Outlander 800xt... don't get me wrong I knew you weren't bullshitting us when you said to remove the back plate and stroke limiter but Damn :D She's lifting up like nothing now.... thanks to you Frankie I got this clutch, I needed to get my stock clutch done and it was twice as much, best money spent on my atv since I got it!!!
I know that feeling. Took me a while too. But when you get it, it's a great feeling. It snappy as hell and buttery smooth when you want it. I've never had to change my belt again ever since I added this clutch and I ride a lot in high gear. Thank you for sharing your experience. It always feels nice to know these videos are helping someone out there.
I am really happy to be reading this because i am very close to purchasing one!
Good video Frankie. I just want to point out that the sheaves are punch indexed on the outer edges to help realign them properly & so are the newer caps with both the warning sticker location & a small punch indent. (I do still mark mine when doing calibrations) I've never heard of guys removing the counter balancer though. As you can see on the backside it's been drilled BALANCING it perfectly to the clutch, so I would be a bit afraid of not using that... Also a better practice with that stroke limiter is shaving it down and re-installing it so you don't have sheave issues coming closed too far spitting a belt. -wowchad
Thanks for the heads up on the sheaves punch index. I really didn't notice them but I will have to take a closer look next time.
When I first got the clutch, I really struggled with it to get it setup to my liking. Spoke with several people about stroke limiter, balance counter weight, which spring to use, helix angle of secondary etc.... Everyone had different opinions and I never liked the way it ran and I could never reach top speed. It was either a rev monster or it just bogged down my engine with too much weight.
I tried it all. Different springs, helix, with and without stoker and balance weight until I got it where I like it. At the end of the day my message is. Don't be afraid to experiment. We all don't have same riding style and setup, so you need to tweak as you like it for what you do. I think I'm the only guy on the internet that is running a 1010 primary spring plus shim with the lightest weights, no stroker and no counter weight and I love it. I'm not try to say this is how all trail machines should be setup. It's just how I like it. Thanks again for you input Chad.
What if you separated these and can’t find any alignment marks to re-set these? Is the consensus always to remove h the stroke limiter and rear plate?
Does removing the stroke limiter affect shift out rpm?
thanks for the video it was very helpful. I recently got my cv tech clutch but I'm not happy with it and I need some help. there was a drop-down bar when I was purchasing this clutch that was asking what size tires, I selected 29/30's but definitely not working right, I have a 2023 outlander xmr with K&N intake and full HMF Titan Exhaust the bike also is tuned with dyno jet power vision 3 running ATV Terminators 29.5X10X14 on MSA Wheels,
my stall/Engagement went from 1800 stock clutch to 2900 RPM that's way to high and also, I know that the clutch is slipping is not grabbing the belt hard.
when I get on my bike, and I hit the throttle, and the rpm jumps up the bike starts to pull but there is time where I fell the belt slipping cause out of the sudden you can hear the motor RPM spike up a bit then grabs again. my stock was running way better :)
if any of you guys can tell me what weight and spring, I should run I would gladly appreciate
when you take that spacer/ limiter out, did you then get more top end?
What does removing the stoke limter do ??
Hi, where can I find an electronically controlled CVT?
Bonjour je voie que vous élever la bague de limitation de course y a t il pas un risque que la couroi sorte de la poulie ?
Fixed plate mods and clutch kits work awesome for all brands with rollers But Can Am is better to replace the whole unit like you said. If you do the secondary as well I think it will eliminate burning up belts with better engagement. A must for all Can Am's. Great upgrade vid Frankie
Biggest problem with stock Can Am clutches is the inner and outer sleeves don't lock. So even with clutch kit they will still slip and burn belts and loose performance. STM Secondary roller clutch will be the next step. I already have it on the Outty and works really well with the Cvtech. A few years back I purchased a couple QSC fixed clutch kits for our previous machines and always felt it was a waste of money. Thanks for commenting
Good to know, Buddy just switched to the STM and wow I think large difference. I think they all take a little fine tuning to get the most out of them eh. Thx for the feed back will come in useful if I jump on the Can Am train.
STM is the cream of the crop for Can Am clutching. If I was racing for a profession then STM is the only way to go.
All your ride's are a race, Hahaha Fast moving pack
No man that's just in the videos. We spend more time eating lunch, drinking espresso and picking up Gagin's machine every time he rolls over.
Definitely putting this on my renegade cuz i race a lot
That new clutch looks nice. It's a simple design, similar to a stock Grizzly clutch, only a Grizzly clutch stays engaged all the time. Thanks for sharing!
You prolly dont care but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Cody Jasper Instablaster ;)
@Walter Marcel I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Walter Marcel it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
@Cody Jasper no problem xD
Amazing video! I have a few questions.
1: when you remove the backplate what does that do in terms of performance?
2: when you go heavier on the weights what does that do for performance?
I have a cvtech primary myself and I was thinking about doing some tuning to it
Removing back plate I don't think it makes it any faster but it just gives you a quicker throttle response when on/off the throttle. It's just what I'm used to. If I put it back on, it makes my machine feel lazy. I wouldn't recommend this if you like sitting in water a lot. The heavy mass helps keep the engine idle at low rpms.
When it comes to weights, think of it as low gear and high gear. The more weight you add the more it wants to switch into high gear, not enough weight then it may never get into high gear. I find it's easier to start light and work your way heavier. Starting light your machine should feel like a screamer. Typically this is usually paired with a 1016 or 1017 spring. There are so many combinations and variables that it's very difficult just to summarize it in one sentence.
@@FrankiesChannel Ah I see. In that case I'm gonna keep the back plat on and as for the weights. I have a 1017 spring so I might try to go a little heavier on the weights
@@FrankiesChannel whether by removing the back plate we get a stronger jump and power shock when moving and whether it can increase the transmission clunk sound when we move
Why remove the stroke limiter ? Just ordered a CF and they come with these clutches, which is pretty nice
Taking out the stroke limiter will that cause more wear or faster wear?
What weights and spring did you end up using on john's bike and whats on yours. I think i might order a cvtech but don't even know where to start. i am going to a 28" tire so a little larger and heavier than what you 2 run on your machines.
I just picked up the clutch off the shelf from Royal and I'm pretty sure it was setup for large tire mud application. It came with 1017 Spring with 2005 weight. I don't like this setup for trail riding so I switched it to 1016 and added washers on top of the 2005 weights. Total weights+washer+sliders=156 grams. I still need to test this setup, only did quick run up and down our street. Hopefully weather gets better and we can get out to finish setup.
My outlander has STM secondary, so it's a completely different setup. 1010 spring with a shim and 154 grams total weight. I like low engagement so I needed to add a shim to prevent the machine from creeping forward while sitting idle. It took me months before I was happy to find my setup.
If I remember correctly the basic setup to start with is 1016 with 2006 weights. Most guys just start here and tweak the weights depending on tire size and weight. 28" Zilla vs 28 Bighorn would have a different setup since bighorn run true to size and are heavier. So unless you can find another machine with exact same setup. It will be hard for me to just say go with this setup. But it's a start.
If you need help after you get it. Just PM me.
How many nm do you tighten the primary screw on the cv tech clutch
put the cv tech clutch on the outlander 570, now I have the sound of klank and klunk when I move from place and twitch 3 or 4 times when moving and the strap then makes a sound wau wau, please advice
Do you have to add the factory bolt washer and the centering washer when installing the cvtech or can you just use the centering washer by itself.
Yes I used both. 1st the new centering washer then stock washer on top.
Frankie's Channel ok. So you do have to use both or can you just use centering?
+Hunter Broussard I would think you would be okay with just using the centering bolt.
Frankie's Channel ok. Thanks man for advance
Frankie's Channel do you know the torque spec on this bolt?
I have a 06 outlander 800 with a 2012 digitune pro and two brothers racing slipon also this cvtech primary and 27" tires I haven't done this mod YET LOL what should my top speed be on the bike i top out at 52 but don't stay in it once it it climbs fast until it hits 51-52 then just stops and I let off it but fell like she should be running 70 mph after all it is a 800. I've had Honda rancher 420 4x4 with 28s that did 54mph with no mods except the wheels and tires
Basically you're trying to get your clutch to rev between 7200 to 7600 rpm and that should take you right up to your speed limiter of 70 mph. If you're below 7200 then you have too much primary weight, if you're above 7600 then you don't enough weight. If you are in between those numbers then the stroke limiter could be keeping your from reaching top speed or you have a stiff finishing spring on primary or secondary. It's basically a balancing act. There are so many factors. Spring rates, weights helix angles. But there is a site on facebook that have many guys that can help you out. It's call Can Am Clutching and tuning.
Wow my 2012 650 Max XT is a heavy machine with all my gear loaded in the front and rear cargo boxes and i max out at 121 km an hour which is 75 mph
Does it compare to stm or qsc is it one peice or 2 separate peices
Hey Buddy, now that you've had this primary for a while now how do you like it?? pros and cons? worth the price?
Why did you take the counter weight off the back?
Frankie Can I do the same clutch modification for the 2013 Maverick?
Interesting. I know nothing about CVT clutches.
What does the stroke limiter do & why did you take it out?
Why did you take the black plate off the back side of the clutch?
Stroke limiter limits the amount the clutches will close. It's there to prevent the belt from riding to far up and over the sleeves. But I found that it prevents me from reaching that final gear. With it I found I struggled to reach my speed limiter of 125km/h. With it off I can get right up to max speed.
The back plate acts like a fly wheel and is needed for the harmonic balance and Cvtech doesn't recommend removing it. It kinda matches the weight of the stock clutch. By removing the plate the clutch is extremely light and the snap and throttle response is so addicting that I didn't want to put it back on. I spoke with a few performance shops about it and they all don't seem to concerned. So I've been running for a few years like this with no issues.
Maybe I should've commented about this in the video. But I was just thinking it was a Black Friday deal and giving John an upgrade to his machine. But thanks for asking. I sure others would probably ask the same thing.
Have you had any idle issues with the back plate removed in your outlander? have you had the cvt cover off to inspect your sliders and other components for premature wear due to the backplate removal? thinking of taking mine off but wanted more info on doing this
Good Tip!! I forgot all about that. When I first got my clutch a few years back. I was struggling to get it setup and I couldn't reach top speed. So I tried the marker on the sheave trick. John seems to be liking the new clutch. When I'm editing video and watch he's camera. I see him constantly popping the front end up every chance he gets.
2021 Polaris Ranger Primary.. Can i get a Primary CV Tech Clutch for this?? Thanks Guys- Awesome video and techy> Love it!!
500 MidSized Machine.. My Stock Primary slips out too soon on DownGrades in Low Range:((
Hey frankie I'm running 32in assessinators In my 2012 can am renegade 1000 can you give me an advice on a clutch setup? Spring and weights?
I have the same primary clutch as you
Once you get a few rides in, let me know what you think? Looking into clutching my renegade as well!
I have the CVTech on my Outlander for a few years now. That's why I bought a second one for my son. In my opinion anyone running big mud tires on a Can Am. It's a must to change out the primary clutch. The stock primary sheaves don't lock together and this is where the major problem is for burning belts.
how do you find the performance and power delivery?
Why exactly do you remove the stroke limiter or for that matter the back-plate? Just curious as i'm considering getting a CVtech for my 2012 650 Max XT
When I first starting adjusting the clutch. I was having a difficult time reaching top speed and thought maybe it was the stroke limiter. Basically it limits the clutch from closing too far and reaching a higher gear where not to drive the belt past it's limits. You would need a hell of a lot hp to push the belt past it's limits. So I got rid of it.
Secondly the backplate is used for harmonic balance and helps keep the engine turning at low idle. If you like mudding chances are you would be sitting idle stuck in the mud a lot and or deep water. This would help keep the engine idling and help prevent engine stall especially if your exhaust is underwater.
Now you're probably wondering why the heck I would remove the backplate. lol.. Because I like fast trail riding and throttle response is much quicker and makes the machine much snappier. It won't make machine faster but getting on and off the throttle in and out of corners makes the machine quicker. I've tried putting it back just to be safe but for me it just feels to sluggish once I got used to no plate. My machine has never stalled without the plate but the risk is there. So if you do decide to try it and you find your machine doesn't idle well. Then leave it on. Hope this gives you a better understanding of the clutch.
Ok thanks Frankie! It's very much appreciated :-)
Hey frankie, I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a cvtech for my new '18 1000 XMR renegade... coming from a '12 renegade 1000 xxc, the shift out on this new machine just isn't the same for some reason, even with 27" trail tires.. My old renegade's shift out was perfect stock, it was around 7250RPM, but this new machine just isn't that, I mean the stock clutch turns the 30" cryptids fine, but the shift out is like 7000-7100 RPM, which stinks. What do you think about the cvtech?
Hey buddy!! Good to see you back on a ATV. Thought you pretty much gave up on them after you got the bike.
The trick with CVTech is all in picking the right spring to match your tires. Typically these clutches come with either a 1016 or 1017 spring which both have the same starting engagement but different finish rates. You normally see trail riders with 1016 and mud runners with 1017. If you feel the machine is bogged down and not enough punch. Then first try dropping the weight by either ordering lighter weights or drilling them out. You can always add washer or pennies if you take too much off. Also another sign of too much weight is when the machine is creeping while in gear or hard shifting. You don't need to drill or shift all 6 weights. You can change them in any combination of 2,3,4 and 6.
Best advice I can give you is don't get discouraged. I know I did when I first got mine. Just keep fooling around with different combinations until you find what feels best to you. It's a great clutch, just needs to be tweaked to your liking. Good luck buddy!
It's definitely hard to find time between work, college, adulating, and toys to squeeze youtube in there, but I'm trying my best. I did end up ordering the cvtech and it'll be at my doorstep tomorrow night. I'm not worried about adjusting it, because to me it's all common sense. These clutches are super easy to understand, it's just the matter of finding what will work best for me. I ordered it for my 1000 XMR so it might even come set up pretty decent, but I'm surely excited to get it!!
Oh shit. I miss read your first question. I thought it read you already had the CVTech and had bad results. Sorry my bad. Yah for sure you will like it. First thing you will notice is the belt pinch. It grabs really well. Have fun with the new clutch and machine. I'll be watching out for it.
Hey Frankie. Wondering if you've seen this issue.... I just installed a cvtech primary on my 1000 gade, and it has a loud clacking sound coming from the primary while at idle. Goes away with increased rpm. Im going to take the unit apart when i get a chance, just wondering if you had an idea of what to be looking for.
Great channel btw!
You should hear any clunk noise. I wondering if maybe when it was installed if the outside sheave was locked into the key slot before tightening the bolt. I did that once and it made a funny clunk noise. Just make sure before you tighten the primary bolt. You push the outside sheave in and turn it. You should feel it lock in. Then hold it there and tighten.
Sorry. meant to say You shouldn't hear.
Mike Broek did u fix the clicking noise I have the same problem with mine
And a plug for your bud at Eh tv for directing me to your channel
Good guys ehtv and nos crew. Gotta send him some flowers to say thanks. Lol.
Nice Frankie! Like Franks DIY said, get yourself a little cheap tripod, works wonders! ;-) Do you change the Secondary or the spring in the Secondary?
Ya I know. I have 3 tripods and too lazy to go find them. On my machine I did change the secondary to STM and my sons Renegade still stock secondary.
I don’t understand why your taking the backplate off. It’s to balance the assembly. Think that’s a bad idea.
Frankie great videos. Love the channel I have questions (pick your brain) on cvtech spring primary and weights that have been confusing some clutch guys on my CanAm. How can I get a hold of you? Thanks!
Thanks Brian. Not sure how to send messages on youtube anymore. Maybe try me on Facebook. facebook.com/Frankies-Atv-Page-1027947943977969/
Frankie's Channel . Thanks Frankie. I sent you a PM on FB
hey frankie I just picked up the same cvtech clutch for my outlander just had question by taking that back plate off just wanted to no what are the advantages and disadvantages by doing so >? not really lookin for top speed just low and torque and mid range and I'm just running my stock secondary
The purpose of back plate is for harmonic balance and also acts like counter weight on a fly wheel. I spoke to several performance shops and some say leave it and some say take it out. So I just figured to try both setups and see what feels best for me. With plate off it has wicked throttle response then when you put it back on. Feels a little sluggish.
So you know how it is once you get a taste for something. I always left it off ever since 2013. Only downside that I've noticed is when cold, the idle is a little rougher because of lack of rotating mass. So if your sitting on the fence trying to decide. Just try both setups and see for yourself and decide.
perfect well that made my mind up and I no once I take it off and try it ill garentee keep it off thanks for the quick response come spring hopefully get out with you guys and ride !!!
If I had your money I'd buy something everyday, I would't wait for Black Friday ......
You need a tripod lol.
lol - I was going to tell him the same thing.
Tripods are for you old guys. lol
Bahahaha! or for smart guys - lol
Ya I won't argue with that. The older your are the smarter you get. But you start to forgot half the shit. lol.
LOL I got 3 tripods.