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As a trucker who hauls heavy equipment, your knowledge with snap binders and your securement in general is absolutely perfect, Stretch! Great job and great video!
Only bit of advice I'd add is to make sure the chain links are straight on either end of the binder. If the chain is twisted when you go to snap down the binder, it'll twist the binder handle and likely make the handle face a direction that makes it extremely difficult to un-snap! That's hard to convey over text, but I think the point was made. Just make sure the chain isn't twisted is what it comes down to!
One of the best tractor securement videos yet. I use both ratchet and snap binders on the one vehicle. I still enjoy using snap binders. Thanks for sharing.
I'm not a huge fan of the cam style binders however they do work. I use two ratchet style and two cam style in the same way chuck does with the added benefit of the ratchet style I can "pull" the load into the cam binders if they are not as tight as I'd like. Stick the cams in either the front or rear and the ratchets opposite. This method has never let me down. Also make sure your tie downs are rated for the load you're hauling. The DOT folks are very good at picking up on undersized equipment which you can be fined for and most importantly is not safe.
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS: KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench: amzn.to/35fchvN OTC Slide-Hammer Kit: amzn.to/3p7mq4Q Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last: amzn.to/2VsxTgH SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price: amzn.to/2VegmbE Regular Safety Glasses that I Use: amzn.to/2ATXtEf Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
I chain stuff down a little differently. Secure one end of a 20 ft chain to the anchor point on the trailer, take the free end and run it through the attachment point on the equipment. Attach the binder to the free end and then to part coming off the anchored end and bind it down. This will leave over half the chain free... and the process can be repeated on the other side of the trailer in the reverse. By doing this, you are legally anchoring at two points using a single common chain (it is legal per DOT regulations) thus more efficient utilization of the chain. Each point is independent of the other so if one side fails, it doesn't affect the other side.
My dad used chain binders like this to straighten leaning wooden buildings to brace up and reinforce. When he was young in the 1930s and 40s, this was common knowledge. I’ve seen him do it but I’ve never found the need to use this knowledge yet.
I want to see how you run the chain through the pockets. Do you connect to the pocket or through pocket and connect back to the chain itself. I would worry about connecting end of chain to pocket itself. 🤔
First time using a chain binder recently. I used a cheater pipe to get the handle down, then I couldn't release it by hand, so I used the pipe, which got launched across the street. Can someone explain how wrapping the chain around something allows you to attach the hook a 1/2 link at a time, whereas not wrapping around something first doesn't? And how to release the handle by hand without a cheater bar if it's too hard to do by hand?
I like to use a long 4ish foot crow bar to release the snap binders by sticking it in-between the lever and the chain then prizing against the trailer floor.
What kind of hillbilly tie down is this? Run that one long ass chain through that "D" ring to the other side. And be done. You don't need all them chains and binders. 2 chains, 2 binder's. That thing will not go anywhere.
That wouldn't be legal in many States you need four points of attachment to provide redundancy. Logic being if one point fails you're still secured. Your State may allow your method without issue.
@@Skyhawk945 According to the FMCSA, vehicles with wheels or tracks that weigh 10,000 Lbs. or more are required to be tied down and secured on all 4 corners (at a minimum). This weight of vehicle also requires a minimum of 4 anchor tie-downs (connections between the load and your trailer) and 4 tightening devices (binders). Also, length plays a role in determining how many chain binders you will need for a given load. Loads 5' or less require just one tie-down, however, if the weight of that object is more than 1,100 Lbs. then loads require two tie-downs. Loads 5' to 10' in length require 2 tie-downs.
JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum!
Learn About The Program Here: th-cam.com/video/LbxxZ4l9LnU/w-d-xo.html
Join The Project Support Group Here: www.patreon.com/OWFA/membership
As a trucker who hauls heavy equipment, your knowledge with snap binders and your securement in general is absolutely perfect, Stretch! Great job and great video!
Only bit of advice I'd add is to make sure the chain links are straight on either end of the binder. If the chain is twisted when you go to snap down the binder, it'll twist the binder handle and likely make the handle face a direction that makes it extremely difficult to un-snap! That's hard to convey over text, but I think the point was made. Just make sure the chain isn't twisted is what it comes down to!
Glad to help
His knowledge is garbage
One of the best tractor securement videos yet. I use both ratchet and snap binders on the one vehicle. I still enjoy using snap binders. Thanks for sharing.
I'm not a huge fan of the cam style binders however they do work. I use two ratchet style and two cam style in the same way chuck does with the added benefit of the ratchet style I can "pull" the load into the cam binders if they are not as tight as I'd like. Stick the cams in either the front or rear and the ratchets opposite. This method has never let me down.
Also make sure your tie downs are rated for the load you're hauling. The DOT folks are very good at picking up on undersized equipment which you can be fined for and most importantly is not safe.
The Welding Guy! I thought he left TH-cam(?) He is/was a great welding Teacher.
Glad you made another I remember your first one or Is this re-upload
Always amazed at the videos I love to watch.
Great video Chuck. Every man should learn this.
I ALWAYS TOOK A SHORT PIECE OF BAILING WIRE AND WRAPED THE HANDLE SO IT COULD NOT OPEN
Yep,
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true
SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS:
KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench:
amzn.to/35fchvN
OTC Slide-Hammer Kit:
amzn.to/3p7mq4Q
Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last:
amzn.to/2VsxTgH
SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price:
amzn.to/2VegmbE
Regular Safety Glasses that I Use:
amzn.to/2ATXtEf
Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
Good point on the half link trick, thanks 👍🏻
Great advice. 🍻
I chain stuff down a little differently. Secure one end of a 20 ft chain to the anchor point on the trailer, take the free end and run it through the attachment point on the equipment. Attach the binder to the free end and then to part coming off the anchored end and bind it down. This will leave over half the chain free... and the process can be repeated on the other side of the trailer in the reverse. By doing this, you are legally anchoring at two points using a single common chain (it is legal per DOT regulations) thus more efficient utilization of the chain. Each point is independent of the other so if one side fails, it doesn't affect the other side.
Interesting. Not a bad idea either, especially if you're short on chains
Lots of fun have a great day
I learned a ton, thanks Chuckie!
Excellent
My dad used chain binders like this to straighten leaning wooden buildings to brace up and reinforce. When he was young in the 1930s and 40s, this was common knowledge. I’ve seen him do it but I’ve never found the need to use this knowledge yet.
The original come along 😎
I want to see how you run the chain through the pockets. Do you connect to the pocket or through pocket and connect back to the chain itself. I would worry about connecting end of chain to pocket itself. 🤔
First time using a chain binder recently. I used a cheater pipe to get the handle down, then I couldn't release it by hand, so I used the pipe, which got launched across the street.
Can someone explain how wrapping the chain around something allows you to attach the hook a 1/2 link at a time, whereas not wrapping around something first doesn't?
And how to release the handle by hand without a cheater bar if it's too hard to do by hand?
I like to use a long 4ish foot crow bar to release the snap binders by sticking it in-between the lever and the chain then prizing against the trailer floor.
If your not going far or fast I never strap anything down she’ll ride
We call the binders boomers, why when you let them fly when tight, BOOM.
Love it don’t try to blame me you idiot 😂😂😂😂😂
What kind of hillbilly tie down is this? Run that one long ass chain through that "D" ring to the other side. And be done. You don't need all them chains and binders. 2 chains, 2 binder's. That thing will not go anywhere.
That wouldn't be legal in many States you need four points of attachment to provide redundancy. Logic being if one point fails you're still secured. Your State may allow your method without issue.
@@Skyhawk945 According to the FMCSA, vehicles with wheels or tracks that weigh 10,000 Lbs. or more are required to be tied down and secured on all 4 corners (at a minimum). This weight of vehicle also requires a minimum of 4 anchor tie-downs (connections between the load and your trailer) and 4 tightening devices (binders).
Also, length plays a role in determining how many chain binders you will need for a given load. Loads 5' or less require just one tie-down, however, if the weight of that object is more than 1,100 Lbs. then loads require two tie-downs. Loads 5' to 10' in length require 2 tie-downs.