An old farmer was seen dragging a long length of chain along the sidewalk when a police officer stopped him and asked, "Sir, why are you dragging this chain behind you?" The old farmer wiped the sweat from his brow, looked up at the officer with a somewhat puzzled look on his face and said, "Because...it's a heck of lot easier than trying to push it."
It takes videos like this to let me know how Iittle I knew about chains! And, what a great story at the end about lending out a tool to someone who may not know how to use it. Thanks, Tim!
One of the best put together video yet, especially the EXAMPLE PULL part. Really get the feeling that you are very knowledgeable and are not trying to “BS” us. Well done!
Growing up we never had chain except for the tires. Now I have several chains with a 5/8" x 20' the largest. It works great for removing tree stumps but when tied around the waist it is a bit heavy. Much better to use the truck or the small tractor.
Thank you. The things people know and take for granted are not easy for people with no experience to learn without finding someone willing to explain basics. Videos like this are invaluable. Thanks again.
Tim you take a very important subject, often overlooked as commonly understood knowledge; you plainly explain it so that even a novice can proceed safely and properly. Well said; thank you.
I learned how to use chains pulling out fire wood with our garden tractors from our woods when I was a kid. Very informative video as always! My one buddy didn't believe we could pull out trees with just a cheap agway brand 16hp lawn tractor. It had a standard hi and low transmission, ag tires, my neighbor who was a machinist made a little grab hitch on the frame and we used a short 3/8 chain about 6ft. It was great living next to a machinist. He was old and had a tons of knowledge.
This video was exactly what I was looking for as a first time tractor owner. Thank you so much for doing this! Very informative and a great resource to get started!!
Very informative. I learned much about chains and their safe use. Just about no information is too basic to receive for those of us who did not grow up in environments where this information was common. Enjoyed hearing mention of lessons learned from your dad and appreciate you now passing them down to us. Thanks to you and Christy for sharing.
Excellent points! As a former fence installer who used chains for transport,and pulling old posts from the ground. 2# 12ft chains ,each with a slipper and standard hook. Pulling posts,hook chain down low on tractor and post. Add the largest wheel (scrap wheel/rim or with tire) as close to the post as possible, and run the chain over top of it. The wheel becomes a rolling fulcrum. A 4x4 works better,but needs an experienced holder and tractor driver.
I’ve commented on this video before. Although TTWT has helped many people with these videos, I’ve shared this chain video more then any other. So much content explained straightforward, using simple terms. Thank you Tim and Christy for creating and sharing these helpful videos.
Thanks for all the advice, Tim. If I may add one piece of info; hook to the smooth side of the link as opposed to the welded side. I never really thought of this, but all the Hot Shot guys say it when securing loads, so I suspect they're more than knowledgeable than I. Great tutorial.
I determined after years of use around home that a 9-10' 1/4" grade 70 or 80 with one grab and one slip hook covered most everything I needed to do with my compact tractor and yes I also stored it right on the floorboard so it was always there and I can't stress this enough, "I never had to go looking for it". I did the same at work in the backhoe (12'), the loader, grader and each dump truck had 20' of grade 70, 5/16" transport chain.
Hi Tim; Very nice video covering the basics of chains. I wish I had seen it 10 years ago when I first got a tractor and started being an amateur farmer! Over the years I had to learn most of these things via the school of hard knocks... but my tractor survived and I still have all my fingers! I did want to comment on one thing though... You mentioned the WLL of various sizes of chains and commented that a 1/4" size grade 70 chain was sufficient for use with a sub-compact tractor because the tractor could not pull any harder than the WLL of the chain. This is true, but only on a straight pull. If you are using force multiplication with pulleys then all bets are off! I frequently use chains as part of the rig I use to topple trees. I usually prefer to topple a tree if possible rather than fell it with a chainsaw as I know exactly 100% where the tree is going to fall, I can be far away when it falls, and it gets the stump out of the ground as part of the deal. I use 1/4" wire rope (1200 lb WLL) and 10 pulleys which gives a theoretical pulling force of 12,000 pounds (at the load limit of the wire rope) against the anchor point which is provided by the chain, sometimes quite a long chain, over to a big strap looped as low as possible around a big tree. I use 20 foot lengths of 3/8" grade 70 for this (6600 Lb WLL) joined together with double clevises and have never noticed any distress in the chains. The pulls are always done slowly and smoothly, usually with the tractor engine at idle speed. More power just isn't needed. So far this has worked 100% on trees up to about 18" -20" in diameter rooted in heavy clay. Having worked this all out by myself with no expert guidance I am not sure an expert would approve of this procedure and if you have any comments I'd love to hear them! By the way... I store my chains in rubber feed buckets. The rubber buckets don't crack like plastic ones do, they keep the chains organized, and the handle makes them easy to carry around.
Hi Stuart; Actually to topple a tree I pull on it quite low (where it is stronger) as I want to pull the root ball out of the ground and not take a chance of breaking off the trunk of the tree which could be sudden and uncontrolled. At the tree that is being removed end of the rig I put five 6' foot long double loop straps (Princess Auto part number 8021419) wrapped around the tree as a choke. These straps are typically placed only 5 to 6 feet above the ground. The free loop on each strap is placed in the hook of a 1 ton snatch block (Princess Auto part number 8824922). At the anchor end of the rig a 30 foot vehicle tow strap (Princess Auto part number 8841561) is wrapped 1 1/2 times around a stout tree as low as I can get it. Wrap it so the 2 looped ends are even and put a shackle in the loops. The shackle connects to 20' lengths of 3/8" grade 70 chain. I use as many 20' lengths of chain as required to get near the tree I am toppling and join them together using double clevis fittings (Princess Auto part number 3804598). At the other end of the chains I put another double loop tow strap connected to the chains by a shackle. This shackle can be moved along the last length of chain to fine tune the gap between the 2 sets of pulleys. At the loop at the free end of the tow strap I put the hook end of 4 more of the 1 ton snatch blocks. This leaves you with 2 sets of pulleys facing each other. I use a 150 foot length of 1/4" wire rope to lace between the 2 sets of pulleys. (The wire rope is prepared with a loop at each end using a thimble and wire rope clips.) The anchor end of the wire rope is connected to the loop on the tow strap (along with the snatch block hooks) by using a shackle. The free end of the wire rope has a shackle on it which goes over a hook on my tractor. If you work it out this means that there are 10 lengths of wire rope between the pulleys so the rigging should be set so that there is about 15 feet between the 2 sets of pulleys. (150 feet of rope divided by 10.) I then use the tractor to pull on the wire rope and gently tip the tree over. Keep an eye on how tall the tree is compared to how far away you are from it with the tractor! You don't want it landing on your head! A variation is to add a 5th pulley at the anchor end and pull in the opposite direction. This way the tree is tipping in the direction opposite to the direction the tractor is moving so it is a bit safer but you don't always have room to do this. I hope this helps but as always, use this information with caution, common sense, and at your own risk....
@@Stu2366593 Hi Stuart; Having the Princess Auto (PA) part numbers only helps much if you are a Canadian living near a PA branch but I figured that anybody anywhere could browse the PA web site and see a photo of what I am talking about so they know what they are looking for when they search for a local source for these items. Yes, all the part numbers are current - I checked on that! I really like these snatch blocks as they have a couple of features that make them particularly suitable for this sort of work. I got mine years ago and PA didn't stock them for a while and I am very glad to see that they are now back on the shelves. Sorry, I don't currently have a video of the process. That is not a bad idea though! Next time I topple a tree I'll see if I can take a video to post on TH-cam.
I cannot thank you enough for these videos. For people trying to figure out the basics, it can be an ordeal. Most farmers were taught by their dads I will bet. My dad definitely did not know anything about this stuff. Now I am grandma age and trying to do farm things on my property. I was just wondering about chains the other day and - boom, you had a vid on it.
Absolute perfect timing to come across this video. Just getting ready to order a choker chain to drag logs behind my sub compact and of course I was thinking Biggers better and look at a 3/8”. I will now be getting 1/4”. it’s lighter, cheaper, and better for my application. Thanks for the education.
Tim, you are something else! Like you, I grew up on a farm and have been around equipment my whole life. Thought I had a pretty good understanding of chain use... As usual, you provide interesting and useful thoughts and ideas. Even gave an old dog some new ideas to make chain use easier and more productive. Really enjoy your series! Nicely done!
Heyhey Tim good info. I completely can relate to how we are much more easy going as we get older. It just isn't worth the heartache to get angry over things like that. I appreciate you telling that story. Thanks
“Don’t jerk anybody’s chain.” I’ve heard that saying many times but never really connected it to an actual chain.... always thought of it as figurative to... don’t make anybody angry.... nice explanation! Some good reminders for those who already know and very valuable info for those who might not!
As a new and first time tractor owner, this video was very helpful. I'm having hooks welded to by box in a couple of days. Thanks Tim...sure appreciate your sage advice.
Don't worry about being too simple with the information. Everyone can learn something new at any point. I've been hauling, towing, and "tractoring" for years and still watched all the way through, just in case there was info I didn't already have.
When pulling/towing something, always hook lower than the center of the axle. This will also give you some down force and keep the front from lifting. Someone may have already commented on this, if so, sorry to repeat.
I am retired now but I was a machine repair man also a tool and die maker but to make the story short I went to school for six weeks to learn rigging and there is a awful lot involved in rigging. But I will tell you this I think you did a very good job and explaining the basics what you should watch out for, one other thing the higher the chain is if one and breaks that means it's going to be flying in the air at that height and it could easily hit a man behind the steering wheel of the tractor, I seen two 20-year-old man towing a car up a hill with a heavy forklift truck it had a full cage around it and a was factory workers with no experience with rigging, I walked out the door just before the chain snapped and they was doing the same thing as your neighbor did. When they took off to pull the car up the hill the chain snapped and hit the wire mesh cage that was around the forklift. They both jumped out of their vehicles laughing I walked over to them and looked at the guy behind the forklift truck and I told him you are lucky you took this forklift truck and not the other one that don't have a cage around. That chain would have slapped you right in the back of the head and you probably wouldn't be here today. After he looked back in force at the forklift and the car he wasn't laughing no more I told him if management everything you doing that you both would be unemployed right now consider this a lesson of life don't ever make that mistake again never jerked a chain like that. I did not report them because I could see the seriousness of the situation they understood when I explained it to them and I figured it was a lesson enough to learn without losing their jobs, power equipment is very dangerous and I really think this was a good video to teach people a little bit about that good job buddy
Great overview. I couldn't tell you how many times I've had someone try to hook up a chain by putting the tip of a grab hook inside a link. Never underestimate how much you know.
I use a quarter inch 120 grade chain with a grab hook and a slip hook on it. I use it for logging in a small operation I have been made fun of it for a long time but it is some much lighter. Like you said It can be used all day with little exhaustion.
Excellent video! Brings back good memories when my Dad was alive and we logged together. Also, I am amazed how most of your subjects can relate to a Bible verse! Very thoughtful, and I am sure a lot of care goes into that. I appreciate that the most:)
I understand your point about hooking low for safety, but sometimes you need to hook higher to add weight to your tractor. I hook to the three point hitch so that I can lift with the chain. In this case I hook very short. Put some dirt in your bucket for more weight.
Haven't seen it in the comments yet, but don't forget to throw something over the top of the chain in the center (coat, blanket, etc) before pulling. That way if it comes loose under tension it won't become a as much of a danger. Think of it as if it were a cable that broke, it is a deadly whip that can cut a person in half. If possible cover at least 5 feet. Don't own a tractor but this information is applicable to many situations. Thanks Tim, keep up the very informative videos.
Great video!!! Even though my dad ran a wrecker service and towing service for 50 years and. I worked for him when I was young, it re-enforced the proper uses, practices, types and applications. I have some chains that have been stretched and abused. (not all by me!!). I am going to replace and upgrade all my smaller over stressed chain with grade 70 chain with the retainer hooks before spring. Thanks for inspiring me to get going and to use the proper chain and use safe practices!!!
hi tim i use chain every day well presented. one storage idea that i use for the truck regarding chain which will help is cut out the top of a 5 liter plastic oil/antifreeze bottle taking out the spout but leaving the handle intact. not only dose it store the chain but makes it easy to carry. we fit 9 meters of 8mm grade 80 chain in one bottle
Great video for those new to this topic. I believe the reason the chain measurement is not exactly ¼ ½ etc. is they are manufactured using metric measurements and then converted to a nominal size for US markets.
Where I worked the company brought in a chain company to check all the chains, lifting straps and other devices we would use over a years time. I think the biggest chain for lifting like the truck frames were 7/8 which might I say are quite heavy. Each chain or if they were multiple chains on a ring. were taken then to be replaced. On a chain at my place it's 3/8 with grab hook on one end an slip hook on other end x 20 feet. I need to buy some 5/16 and binders for my tractor if I ever transport it. Great video Tim! One time at work we had a mining truck sitting on our triple wide trailer out in the yard, it is attached with the semi tractor, well I got stuck. So maintenance came out with a wheel loader pretty good size. They hooked a chain on the back of the triple wide trailer and started pulling, well the chain broke and we never found all of that chain, don't know where it went!
Thanks Tim! I ended up buying a couple chains when I was taking a huge tree down in our backyard. Outside of their intended purpose, best use I've found for them so far? Pulling the posts on our old chain link fence that were sunk in to 40+ inch concrete footers. When you think of a metal chain, one thing you don't think about (or at least I never did) is traction and gripping power. A couple wraps around the base of the post then loop it over the foot of a hi-lift jack and it's insane how well it would grip the pole, even when covered in wet mud that was hard to stand up in. Some of the more stubborn posts crumpled and snapped before the concrete footer broke free. Trees along the fence line had worked their roots tightly around, and in some cases through, the footers. Those ones just got chisled back and cut off about a foot under ground. Best I could do without damaging the tree roots. But for most of the posts, it popped them out with surprisingly little effort. Thanks again for all the videos!
One thing you demonstrated many times but didn't explain was how to attach the hook to the chain. I've seen people try to slip the hook point inside a link so that tension would be pulling the link open. Probably something you learned so long ago the thought of doing it wrong never occurred to you. Anyway, thanks once again for the informative video.
I got stuck brush jogging a field one time. There was a guy working there that had a tractor mounted backhoe and he offered to pull me out. We hooked up and his tractor couldn't pull me, he had a smaller tractor. We then hooked the chain to the backhoe, he put the outriggers down and the backhoe pulled me out with no problem. Hydraulics is (are?) a wonderful thing.
I started farming with my dad 50 years ago. We grew spring potatoes in Florida and often had to harvest in the mud. We had 70 hp tractors (John Deere 3020) and used 20 ft of half inch chain to pull struck trucks out. A real work out lifting that thing. About 15 yeas ago I was working on a farm and had to use a 200 hp JD 4960 four wheel drive to pull a fully loaded (30,000 lb of potatoes plus the truck)10 wheel bulk truck out of deep sand where it had broke down. All I had was a 5/16 chain that the boss said was good enough. I made sure to take up the slack before I fully let out on the clutch. The tractor dug in and away we went. All those years using that heavy logging chain when all we needed was a good quality 5/16 one.
Can I play your dad advocate, did you attach the hook correctly at the 17:50-17:56 minute mark, I was always taught to hook the hook over the top of the link, not from underneath, and always hook on the unwelded potion of the link, it’s strongest point. Correct me if I’m wrong. Learned a little bit more today, as I always do, that’s why I love watching an informative video.
Thank you for this video. I am planning on moving to a rural area and never owned a tractor. I've used chains on boats but nothing else. Had no clue there were different chain strengths, or types of hooks.
Another fantastic video. Thank you Tim. The guidance/suggestion of a 1/4 inch 10' chain that can meet most lifting needs was great. And several other notes as well.
Excellent tutorial. If one has a loader on any size tractor, the bolt on or weld on clevis are worth their weight in gold. Makes a tractor much more versatile.
the little slots beside the draw bar at 11:50 are attachment points for safety chains when pulling a trailer or implement equipped with safety chains and some free advice - when pulling with a chain lay something over the chain, like a folded tarp or fender cover or even a coat to make the chain go to the ground if it breaks, this is especially important if pulling with a cable or a rope. if a chain has stretched links it should replaced.
I have a good tip for you if you are having to pull something horizontally, it takes two chains, but it's totally worth it. Put a used tire in between, even if someone starts to jerk the tire will give and slow them down, but it will also let puller have enough momentum that it will let you pull more than you would have (not as necessary if you are using a pull strap). Also, a warning, be careful going around any cast items, especially a yolk like piece, if you were using something stronger than the small tractor you would severely risk breaking that piece (I'm speaking from a bad experience) the four bolt holes on the front of your tractor, under the grill (where a weight bracket would mount) would be a great place to add a hitching point.
It's not the Working load limit thats gets you into trouble it's the shock load put on a chain that's the real test, yea your machine might have a gross weight of 2500# but have to much slack and you could easily quadruple that amount, ie. 5/16 transport will break at about 20,000#, not sure about 1/4". it might be heavy but i won't go less than 5/16" on my subcom. Something else to consider, if you are try to pull a stuck object, ie. car, truck ect. Use the proper weight nylon snach strap, they absorb the shock load or give you a more gentle pull, and arrest your pull line (if very long, 60 feet or more ) with an old tire (no rim) with the line passing through the tire in the middle of your line to help prevent wip, especially steel cables, they can be deadly. great video with great information.
"Don't jerk someone's chain!" Great stuff, sir. Practical and knowledgeable. I used to teach a rigging class in the oil industry. For farm and yard applications, you are right on. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent vid, and a lot of good info! Much of what you said some people with call "common sense", but (first of all) common sense is somewhat of an oxymoron nowadays (lol), and (secondly) what they REALLY mean is "common knowledge", and for those of us who are new (or maybe even not THAT new!) to tractors, such knowledge is FAR from common!!! You explain it all so well, never condescend, and never disrespect -- very much appreciated! Again, great stuff as always!!!
Great tips and info. The one exception to not hooking a chain to 3 point is when pulling out post. As long as the tractor is substantial enough & on flat ground, that's the best way to pull a post.
That's why they make 3 point hitch drawbars, you can adjust up or down to match your pull point ( if possible) if you're furthest pull point is much higher pick a solid pull point on your tractor ( unless your 3point is power up and down) then these drawbars are great.
What a great video!!!! I wish TH-cam had the option of two thumbs up. In addition to the great overall info about chains, thanks for warning me off using the top hook on my quick hitch. I've been doing that since seeing a video expressly encouraging that to lift and tow heavy objects. You may well have saved my life or my tractor. Thank you thank you thank you.
FYI, I have shared many of your videos. This is the video I have shared the most. Thank you for making it. If I could put a bug in your ear, I’d love to see a video about repairing punctured tractor tires.
good overview about chains. a lot of folks dont know how to use them properly. They are an essential tool when logging or doing firewood. i got bolt on hooks years ago based on a review you did. I've used them over and over again. i also have the loop/clevis on the bottom/inside the bucket. absolutely love them. one of the best add ons I've ever bought for the tractor. forgot about heavy hitch. i need a receiver to tow around my little log splitter. i might have to get one of the FEL receivers. dont think i heed the heavy hitch one and its a bit more expensive.
Great instructional video. I happen to have had many chains that have been stretched. They came from my In laws that worked in gravel pits all their careers. The chains were bought as graded 30 and were used to pull out tri axels and other heavy equipment. After a few uses they were tossed because of being stretched. They wouldn't buy expensive chains because they would have been stretched too from over abuse. Some would have been stretched so far that the chain had lost all it's flex.
My favorite place to keep a chain is either hooked to the rops the. Wapped in a way that it won't drag or to Wrap it around my bucket hooks, if I have a good floor board I I have kept them there or if I am doing repetitive pulls from the rear I will keep one end hooked to the clevis in the drawbar and loop the working end around the 3ph lift arms between pulls.
An old farmer was seen dragging a long length of chain along the sidewalk when a police officer stopped him and asked, "Sir, why are you dragging this chain behind you?" The old farmer wiped the sweat from his brow, looked up at the officer with a somewhat puzzled look on his face and said, "Because...it's a heck of lot easier than trying to push it."
It takes videos like this to let me know how Iittle I knew about chains! And, what a great story at the end about lending out a tool to someone who may not know how to use it. Thanks, Tim!
One of the best put together video yet, especially the EXAMPLE PULL part. Really get the feeling that you are very knowledgeable and are not trying to “BS” us. Well done!
Lonih
Simple subject, but the reality is you might be saving someones life who has never had a basic education on proper chain use, well done Tim.
Growing up we never had chain except for the tires. Now I have several chains with a 5/8" x 20' the largest. It works great for removing tree stumps but when tied around the waist it is a bit heavy. Much better to use the truck or the small tractor.
I'm here to learn I ain't never had no bad luck but if I can learn enough to prevent it 😜
Thank you. The things people know and take for granted are not easy for people with no experience to learn without finding someone willing to explain basics. Videos like this are invaluable. Thanks again.
Tim you take a very important subject, often overlooked as commonly understood knowledge; you plainly explain it so that even a novice can proceed safely and properly. Well said; thank you.
I learned how to use chains pulling out fire wood with our garden tractors from our woods when I was a kid. Very informative video as always! My one buddy didn't believe we could pull out trees with just a cheap agway brand 16hp lawn tractor. It had a standard hi and low transmission, ag tires, my neighbor who was a machinist made a little grab hitch on the frame and we used a short 3/8 chain about 6ft. It was great living next to a machinist. He was old and had a tons of knowledge.
This video was exactly what I was looking for as a first time tractor owner. Thank you so much for doing this! Very informative and a great resource to get started!!
Oh yes and never keep bad chain around get rid of it so somebody doesn't accidentally use it. This is an excellent video. Thank you
Good info and tips. Thanks Tim, and hope your family had a great thanksgiving
Very informative. I learned much about chains and their safe use. Just about no information is too basic to receive for those of us who did not grow up in environments where this information was common. Enjoyed hearing mention of lessons learned from your dad and appreciate you now passing them down to us. Thanks to you and Christy for sharing.
I'm glad you showed putting a clevis on the draw bar. My clevis stays on my drawbar and makes for an excellent rear tie down point on rear of tractor
Excellent points!
As a former fence installer who used chains for transport,and pulling old posts from the ground.
2# 12ft chains ,each with a slipper and standard hook.
Pulling posts,hook chain down low on tractor and post.
Add the largest wheel (scrap wheel/rim or with tire) as close to the post as possible, and run the chain over top of it.
The wheel becomes a rolling fulcrum.
A 4x4 works better,but needs an experienced holder and tractor driver.
I’ve commented on this video before.
Although TTWT has helped many people with these videos, I’ve shared this chain video more then any other.
So much content explained straightforward, using simple terms.
Thank you Tim and Christy for creating and sharing these helpful videos.
Thanks for all the advice, Tim. If I may add one piece of info; hook to the smooth side of the link as opposed to the welded side. I never really thought of this, but all the Hot Shot guys say it when securing loads, so I suspect they're more than knowledgeable than I. Great tutorial.
I determined after years of use around home that a 9-10' 1/4" grade 70 or 80 with one grab and one slip hook covered most everything I needed to do with my compact tractor and yes I also stored it right on the floorboard so it was always there and I can't stress this enough, "I never had to go looking for it". I did the same at work in the backhoe (12'), the loader, grader and each dump truck had 20' of grade 70, 5/16" transport chain.
Hi Tim; Very nice video covering the basics of chains. I wish I had seen it 10 years ago when I first got a tractor and started being an amateur farmer! Over the years I had to learn most of these things via the school of hard knocks... but my tractor survived and I still have all my fingers! I did want to comment on one thing though... You mentioned the WLL of various sizes of chains and commented that a 1/4" size grade 70 chain was sufficient for use with a sub-compact tractor because the tractor could not pull any harder than the WLL of the chain. This is true, but only on a straight pull. If you are using force multiplication with pulleys then all bets are off! I frequently use chains as part of the rig I use to topple trees. I usually prefer to topple a tree if possible rather than fell it with a chainsaw as I know exactly 100% where the tree is going to fall, I can be far away when it falls, and it gets the stump out of the ground as part of the deal. I use 1/4" wire rope (1200 lb WLL) and 10 pulleys which gives a theoretical pulling force of 12,000 pounds (at the load limit of the wire rope) against the anchor point which is provided by the chain, sometimes quite a long chain, over to a big strap looped as low as possible around a big tree. I use 20 foot lengths of 3/8" grade 70 for this (6600 Lb WLL) joined together with double clevises and have never noticed any distress in the chains. The pulls are always done slowly and smoothly, usually with the tractor engine at idle speed. More power just isn't needed. So far this has worked 100% on trees up to about 18" -20" in diameter rooted in heavy clay. Having worked this all out by myself with no expert guidance I am not sure an expert would approve of this procedure and if you have any comments I'd love to hear them! By the way... I store my chains in rubber feed buckets. The rubber buckets don't crack like plastic ones do, they keep the chains organized, and the handle makes them easy to carry around.
How far up the tree do place cable and how do you get up there?
Ditto on the rubber bucket. It’s been my chain storage for decades.
Hi Stuart; Actually to topple a tree I pull on it quite low (where it is stronger) as I want to pull the root ball out of the ground and not take a chance of breaking off the trunk of the tree which could be sudden and uncontrolled. At the tree that is being removed end of the rig I put five 6' foot long double loop straps (Princess Auto part number 8021419) wrapped around the tree as a choke. These straps are typically placed only 5 to 6 feet above the ground. The free loop on each strap is placed in the hook of a 1 ton snatch block (Princess Auto part number 8824922).
At the anchor end of the rig a 30 foot vehicle tow strap (Princess Auto part number 8841561) is wrapped 1 1/2 times around a stout tree as low as I can get it. Wrap it so the 2 looped ends are even and put a shackle in the loops. The shackle connects to 20' lengths of 3/8" grade 70 chain. I use as many 20' lengths of chain as required to get near the tree I am toppling and join them together using double clevis fittings (Princess Auto part number 3804598). At the other end of the chains I put another double loop tow strap connected to the chains by a shackle. This shackle can be moved along the last length of chain to fine tune the gap between the 2 sets of pulleys. At the loop at the free end of the tow strap I put the hook end of 4 more of the 1 ton snatch blocks. This leaves you with 2 sets of pulleys facing each other.
I use a 150 foot length of 1/4" wire rope to lace between the 2 sets of pulleys. (The wire rope is prepared with a loop at each end using a thimble and wire rope clips.) The anchor end of the wire rope is connected to the loop on the tow strap (along with the snatch block hooks) by using a shackle. The free end of the wire rope has a shackle on it which goes over a hook on my tractor. If you work it out this means that there are 10 lengths of wire rope between the pulleys so the rigging should be set so that there is about 15 feet between the 2 sets of pulleys. (150 feet of rope divided by 10.)
I then use the tractor to pull on the wire rope and gently tip the tree over. Keep an eye on how tall the tree is compared to how far away you are from it with the tractor! You don't want it landing on your head! A variation is to add a 5th pulley at the anchor end and pull in the opposite direction. This way the tree is tipping in the direction opposite to the direction the tractor is moving so it is a bit safer but you don't always have room to do this.
I hope this helps but as always, use this information with caution, common sense, and at your own risk....
@@Vincent_Sullivan Super helpful response, especially the URL for the products you referenced. Thank you.
You wouldn't have a video on this by any chance? All those parts you listed are currently available at Princess Auto BTW. Thx.
@@Stu2366593 Hi Stuart; Having the Princess Auto (PA) part numbers only helps much if you are a Canadian living near a PA branch but I figured that anybody anywhere could browse the PA web site and see a photo of what I am talking about so they know what they are looking for when they search for a local source for these items. Yes, all the part numbers are current - I checked on that! I really like these snatch blocks as they have a couple of features that make them particularly suitable for this sort of work. I got mine years ago and PA didn't stock them for a while and I am very glad to see that they are now back on the shelves.
Sorry, I don't currently have a video of the process. That is not a bad idea though! Next time I topple a tree I'll see if I can take a video to post on TH-cam.
I cannot thank you enough for these videos. For people trying to figure out the basics, it can be an ordeal. Most farmers were taught by their dads I will bet. My dad definitely did not know anything about this stuff. Now I am grandma age and trying to do farm things on my property. I was just wondering about chains the other day and - boom, you had a vid on it.
Absolute perfect timing to come across this video. Just getting ready to order a choker chain to drag logs behind my sub compact and of course I was thinking Biggers better and look at a 3/8”. I will now be getting 1/4”. it’s lighter, cheaper, and better for my application. Thanks for the education.
Great presentation. Thank you. Very informative and interesting.
Another use for the tube on the loader bar is to put long handled tools such as shovels, rakes etc. for transport
Tim, you are something else! Like you, I grew up on a farm and have been around equipment my whole life. Thought I had a pretty good understanding of chain use... As usual, you provide interesting and useful thoughts and ideas. Even gave an old dog some new ideas to make chain use easier and more productive. Really enjoy your series! Nicely done!
same with me Rick. I learned something new from this video.
Heyhey Tim good info. I completely can relate to how we are much more easy going as we get older. It just isn't worth the heartache to get angry over things like that. I appreciate you telling that story. Thanks
Hey Tim another use for that hidden compartment on your 1025R Is to store your shovel and Or digging bar
Thankz for that idea!!
I use mine for a steel pry bar too
great information for us new tractor owners, thank you TIM
Thanks Tim nobody explained it better.
Great job Tim. Like you said, not everyone grew up on a farm. I'm sure this is hugely helpful to many. I learned a few things. Thanks
A good refresher for safe use of chains. Makes you think twice before doing something not so safe. Accidents happen in a split second. Thanks.
“Don’t jerk anybody’s chain.” I’ve heard that saying many times but never really connected it to an actual chain.... always thought of it as figurative to... don’t make anybody angry.... nice explanation! Some good reminders for those who already know and very valuable info for those who might not!
As a new and first time tractor owner, this video was very helpful. I'm having hooks welded to by box in a couple of days. Thanks Tim...sure appreciate your sage advice.
You can get bolt on hooks from boltonhooks.com likely less expensive than weld on. Use code TTWT for 5% discount.
Your information is always professional and well detailed. Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff! This is very useful and practical information. Thank you for making this video and sharing your insight. God Bless.
Don't worry about being too simple with the information. Everyone can learn something new at any point. I've been hauling, towing, and "tractoring" for years and still watched all the way through, just in case there was info I didn't already have.
When pulling/towing something, always hook lower than the center of the axle. This will also give you some down force and keep the front from lifting.
Someone may have already commented on this, if so, sorry to repeat.
Good overview of chains even though you cost me some money at Bolt on Hooks. Thanks Tim and Christy and I hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
Thanks for the tips! I'm new to tractoring and this really heps!
Welcome! You’ll have hours of fun with the tractor!
I am retired now but I was a machine repair man also a tool and die maker but to make the story short I went to school for six weeks to learn rigging and there is a awful lot involved in rigging.
But I will tell you this I think you did a very good job and explaining the basics what you should watch out for, one other thing the higher the chain is if one and breaks that means it's going to be flying in the air at that height and it could easily hit a man behind the steering wheel of the tractor,
I seen two 20-year-old man towing a car up a hill with a heavy forklift truck it had a full cage around it and a was factory workers with no experience with rigging, I walked out the door just before the chain snapped and they was doing the same thing as your neighbor did. When they took off to pull the car up the hill the chain snapped and hit the wire mesh cage that was around the forklift.
They both jumped out of their vehicles laughing I walked over to them and looked at the guy behind the forklift truck and I told him you are lucky you took this forklift truck and not the other one that don't have a cage around. That chain would have slapped you right in the back of the head and you probably wouldn't be here today.
After he looked back in force at the forklift and the car he wasn't laughing no more I told him if management everything you doing that you both would be unemployed right now consider this a lesson of life don't ever make that mistake again never jerked a chain like that.
I did not report them because I could see the seriousness of the situation they understood when I explained it to them and I figured it was a lesson enough to learn without losing their jobs, power equipment is very dangerous and I really think this was a good video to teach people a little bit about that good job buddy
Great overview. I couldn't tell you how many times I've had someone try to hook up a chain by putting the tip of a grab hook inside a link. Never underestimate how much you know.
Great tips. Thanks from a newbie tractor owner. You shed much light on grade and its relationship to usage.
I use a quarter inch 120 grade chain with a grab hook and a slip hook on it. I use it for logging in a small operation I have been made fun of it for a long time but it is some much lighter. Like you said It can be used all day with little exhaustion.
Very well done Time. And I certainly don’t intend to jerk anyone’s chain 😉. Blessings!
Your the man Tim
Well done Tim! Very well explained and correct.
Very informative, educational, interesting!!!! Like the safety information! Great video!!!!
Excellent video! Brings back good memories when my Dad was alive and we logged together. Also, I am amazed how most of your subjects can relate to a Bible verse! Very thoughtful, and I am sure a lot of care goes into that. I appreciate that the most:)
Thanks for the kind words, Tom.
I understand your point about hooking low for safety, but sometimes you need to hook higher to add weight to your tractor. I hook to the three point hitch so that I can lift with the chain. In this case I hook very short. Put some dirt in your bucket for more weight.
Haven't seen it in the comments yet, but don't forget to throw something over the top of the chain in the center (coat, blanket, etc) before pulling. That way if it comes loose under tension it won't become a as much of a danger. Think of it as if it were a cable that broke, it is a deadly whip that can cut a person in half. If possible cover at least 5 feet. Don't own a tractor but this information is applicable to many situations. Thanks Tim, keep up the very informative videos.
Great video!!! Even though my dad ran a wrecker service and towing service for 50 years and. I worked for him when I was young, it re-enforced the proper uses, practices, types and applications. I have some chains that have been stretched and abused. (not all by me!!). I am going to replace and upgrade all my smaller over stressed chain with grade 70 chain with the retainer hooks before spring. Thanks for inspiring me to get going and to use the proper chain and use safe practices!!!
hi tim i use chain every day well presented. one storage idea that i use for the truck regarding chain which will help is cut out the top of a 5 liter plastic oil/antifreeze bottle taking out the spout but leaving the handle intact. not only dose it store the chain but makes it easy to carry. we fit 9 meters of 8mm grade 80 chain in one bottle
Very smart. Good tip
Tim, thanks for the video. I am a new tractor owner this year and this video was extremely helpful.
Great video for those new to this topic. I believe the reason the chain measurement is not exactly ¼ ½ etc. is they are manufactured using metric measurements and then converted to a nominal size for US markets.
Thankz good info.only thing i would add is when hooking to chain is make shure to hook away from the weld on the chain.
I bolted a metal ammo box on my jd. Water proof storage.
Where I worked the company brought in a chain company to check all the chains, lifting straps and other devices we would use over a years time. I think the biggest chain for lifting like the truck frames were 7/8 which might I say are quite heavy. Each chain or if they were multiple chains on a ring. were taken then to be replaced. On a chain at my place it's 3/8 with grab hook on one end an slip hook on other end x 20 feet. I need to buy some 5/16 and binders for my tractor if I ever transport it. Great video Tim! One time at work we had a mining truck sitting on our triple wide trailer out in the yard, it is attached with the semi tractor, well I got stuck. So maintenance came out with a wheel loader pretty good size. They hooked a chain on the back of the triple wide trailer and started pulling, well the chain broke and we never found all of that chain, don't know where it went!
Another great tutorial by Tim. Thanks!
Thanks Tim! I ended up buying a couple chains when I was taking a huge tree down in our backyard.
Outside of their intended purpose, best use I've found for them so far? Pulling the posts on our old chain link fence that were sunk in to 40+ inch concrete footers. When you think of a metal chain, one thing you don't think about (or at least I never did) is traction and gripping power. A couple wraps around the base of the post then loop it over the foot of a hi-lift jack and it's insane how well it would grip the pole, even when covered in wet mud that was hard to stand up in. Some of the more stubborn posts crumpled and snapped before the concrete footer broke free. Trees along the fence line had worked their roots tightly around, and in some cases through, the footers. Those ones just got chisled back and cut off about a foot under ground. Best I could do without damaging the tree roots. But for most of the posts, it popped them out with surprisingly little effort.
Thanks again for all the videos!
One thing you demonstrated many times but didn't explain was how to attach the hook to the chain. I've seen people try to slip the hook point inside a link so that tension would be pulling the link open. Probably something you learned so long ago the thought of doing it wrong never occurred to you. Anyway, thanks once again for the informative video.
I got stuck brush jogging a field one time. There was a guy working there that had a tractor mounted backhoe and he offered to pull me out. We hooked up and his tractor couldn't pull me, he had a smaller tractor. We then hooked the chain to the backhoe, he put the outriggers down and the backhoe pulled me out with no problem. Hydraulics is (are?) a wonderful thing.
I started farming with my dad 50 years ago. We grew spring potatoes in Florida and often had to harvest in the mud. We had 70 hp tractors (John Deere 3020) and used 20 ft of half inch chain to pull struck trucks out. A real work out lifting that thing. About 15 yeas ago I was working on a farm and had to use a 200 hp JD 4960 four wheel drive to pull a fully loaded (30,000 lb of potatoes plus the truck)10 wheel bulk truck out of deep sand where it had broke down. All I had was a 5/16 chain that the boss said was good enough. I made sure to take up the slack before I fully let out on the clutch. The tractor dug in and away we went. All those years using that heavy logging chain when all we needed was a good quality 5/16 one.
Ha! A 4960 can break a 1/2” chain in some situations!
Good education Tim. You gave me a couple of new ways to look at the task of towing things. God Bless.
Very helpful and I can see how this is often overlooked. Good job looking out for those in need!
Great info!! I was just talking to my neighbor about all this just the other day.
Very informative and easy to understand. The military teaches jerking chains can become “saws” if breaks occur.
Glad to see I'm not the only who uses the next size larger hook on chains.
Can I play your dad advocate, did you attach the hook correctly at the 17:50-17:56 minute mark, I was always taught to hook the hook over the top of the link, not from underneath, and always hook on the unwelded potion of the link, it’s strongest point. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Learned a little bit more today, as I always do, that’s why I love watching an informative video.
Thank you for another great video. I learned a lot!
Thank you for this video. I am planning on moving to a rural area and never owned a tractor. I've used chains on boats but nothing else. Had no clue there were different chain strengths, or types of hooks.
i use my 1/4" and 5/16" chains all the time for lots of things, from moving chicken coops, rocks and trees, to pulling logs out of the woods.
Another fantastic video. Thank you Tim. The guidance/suggestion of a 1/4 inch 10' chain that can meet most lifting needs was great. And several other notes as well.
Excellent tutorial. If one has a loader on any size tractor, the bolt on or weld on clevis are worth their weight in gold. Makes a tractor much more versatile.
Thank you for explaining in detail about chains
I like D rings on my bucket because U can use different size chain and run it though the D rings and then hook the chain it to its self
the little slots beside the draw bar at 11:50 are attachment points for safety chains when pulling a trailer or implement equipped with safety chains and some free advice - when pulling with a chain lay something over the chain, like a folded tarp or fender cover or even a coat to make the chain go to the ground if it breaks, this is especially important if pulling with a cable or a rope. if a chain has stretched links it should replaced.
Great video. Lots of info. You can never have enough chains.
Great info. How about a similar video covering rope? Materials, diameters and load limits? Thanks !
Great video on a simple but useful tool that has multiple uses...
I have a good tip for you if you are having to pull something horizontally, it takes two chains, but it's totally worth it. Put a used tire in between, even if someone starts to jerk the tire will give and slow them down, but it will also let puller have enough momentum that it will let you pull more than you would have (not as necessary if you are using a pull strap). Also, a warning, be careful going around any cast items, especially a yolk like piece, if you were using something stronger than the small tractor you would severely risk breaking that piece (I'm speaking from a bad experience) the four bolt holes on the front of your tractor, under the grill (where a weight bracket would mount) would be a great place to add a hitching point.
Really good education. Thank you!
Great contribution Tim.☺️Tons of useful information, concisely presented. Big Thanks.
My local Bi-Mart sells 2-1/2 gallon buckets (as opposed to 5 gal.) that are perfect for storing and transporting chains. Great vid.
It's not the Working load limit thats gets you into trouble it's the shock load put on a chain that's the real test, yea your machine might have a gross weight of 2500# but have to much slack and you could easily quadruple that amount, ie. 5/16 transport will break at about 20,000#, not sure about 1/4". it might be heavy but i won't go less than 5/16" on my subcom. Something else to consider, if you are try to pull a stuck object, ie. car, truck ect. Use the proper weight nylon snach strap, they absorb the shock load or give you a more gentle pull, and arrest your pull line (if very long, 60 feet or more ) with an old tire (no rim) with the line passing through the tire in the middle of your line to help prevent wip, especially steel cables, they can be deadly. great video with great information.
"Don't jerk someone's chain!" Great stuff, sir. Practical and knowledgeable. I used to teach a rigging class in the oil industry. For farm and yard applications, you are right on. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent vid, and a lot of good info! Much of what you said some people with call "common sense", but (first of all) common sense is somewhat of an oxymoron nowadays (lol), and (secondly) what they REALLY mean is "common knowledge", and for those of us who are new (or maybe even not THAT new!) to tractors, such knowledge is FAR from common!!! You explain it all so well, never condescend, and never disrespect -- very much appreciated! Again, great stuff as always!!!
Thank you very much, a big added plus to my knowledge.
Great tips and info.
The one exception to not hooking a chain to 3 point is when pulling out post. As long as the tractor is substantial enough & on flat ground, that's the best way to pull a post.
That's why they make 3 point hitch drawbars, you can adjust up or down to match your pull point ( if possible) if you're furthest pull point is much higher pick a solid pull point on your tractor ( unless your 3point is power up and down) then these drawbars are great.
Be VERY careful with 3 pt drawbars. The 3 pt can and will come up unexpectedly. There is no down pressure.
Very interesting. My eyes were "chained" to the screen.
hey Tim, Most G70 chain is stamped on the link. I don't know if all G70+ are but the ones Ive seen are.
This video was very helpful for me. Thanks!
I like the way you took your video and broke it up into sections.
What a great video!!!! I wish TH-cam had the option of two thumbs up. In addition to the great overall info about chains, thanks for warning me off using the top hook on my quick hitch. I've been doing that since seeing a video expressly encouraging that to lift and tow heavy objects. You may well have saved my life or my tractor. Thank you thank you thank you.
FYI, I have shared many of your videos. This is the video I have shared the most. Thank you for making it.
If I could put a bug in your ear, I’d love to see a video about repairing punctured tractor tires.
good overview about chains. a lot of folks dont know how to use them properly. They are an essential tool when logging or doing firewood. i got bolt on hooks years ago based on a review you did. I've used them over and over again. i also have the loop/clevis on the bottom/inside the bucket. absolutely love them. one of the best add ons I've ever bought for the tractor. forgot about heavy hitch. i need a receiver to tow around my little log splitter. i might have to get one of the FEL receivers. dont think i heed the heavy hitch one and its a bit more expensive.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I like the depth you go into. Keep up the good work!
thanks I just bought some chain to use with my 1025R and I still need hooks for the ends and this was very helpful on what hooks I need
Thank you Tim.. this Vid was very helpful.
New subscriber. I always learn something from you. Thank you.
Thanks Tim, never had a chain lesson..I am better for your video. I am orange but do watch green..it’s all good.
Cheers and seasons greetings.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
We don’t care what color tractor you own...they are all lots of fun!
Great instructional video. I happen to have had many chains that have been stretched. They came from my In laws that worked in gravel pits all their careers. The chains were bought as graded 30 and were used to pull out tri axels and other heavy equipment. After a few uses they were tossed because of being stretched. They wouldn't buy expensive chains because they would have been stretched too from over abuse. Some would have been stretched so far that the chain had lost all it's flex.
You have a nice 5/16 chain now!!! I’ve used it!
Shoot, now I have to find another hiding place. 😁
My favorite place to keep a chain is either hooked to the rops the. Wapped in a way that it won't drag or to Wrap it around my bucket hooks, if I have a good floor board I I have kept them there or if I am doing repetitive pulls from the rear I will keep one end hooked to the clevis in the drawbar and loop the working end around the 3ph lift arms between pulls.
Well done Tim. Thanks for keeping it simple.
thanks tim. when I first started using chains I kept trying to put the hook though the link and that didnt work. thanks for sharing