2013 Chevy 2500 HD with a broken armrest on the left inside door handle SHOW &TELL Part 1 of 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2024
- We used a 10 inch piece of 3/4 inch angle with two 4 inch pieces of strap (we will make them 5 inches long for the next one) bent at both ends to "piggy back" off of a very strong steel bracket that is already part of the door. 2013 Chevy 2500 HD with a broken drivers inside door armrest show & tell only. (This video was originally made just so GM could see what we thought would be a better idea and was never intended to be a step by step how too, we apologize in advance and when the other side breaks we will try and make a step by step "How to")The center of the handle that is filled with plastic becomes brittle and cracks falling apart. This is video showing how we came up with a fix for these. New ones are $500.00+ dollars and even at that will just break again. I was pretty upset when the door that had been making noise and flexing for a while finally broke and I even said something about shopping for a Ford. I will stay Chevy but still disappointed that GM let this one get out of the factory this way. Feel free to jump through the video to get to the end. And now you can see part 2 of this video for starting on the R&D for the cosmetics • 2013 Chevy 2500 HD wit...
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Same problem on my Yukon. The engineers at GMC failed on the door handle design, both inside and out. You showed us an excellent way to fix it permanently. I just could not pay $450 for another manufacturer design flaw.
Thanks Tim, We have heard back from many people that did this or a version of it to get a great end product. We do not offer it as a service mainly due to the arm rest part cosmetic end product is only semi nice looking and not something I would feel good about billing someone for. We appreciate your feedback.
Thank you for making this video, I have the same problem with an identical door panel/handle on my 2014 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ. This is a ridiculous problem because we are talking about a $60,000 vehicle. I agree with what he’s saying about GM’s lack of quality control. I was quoted $900.00 for a new door panel from the dealer. I’m not going to spend that kind of money only to deal with it again. I do about 35,000 miles a year so I need a good quality truck too. Thanks again for taking the time to make the video.
Your Welcome Cody and thanks for the shout out.
Thanks for the video! Although you didn't quite show a detailed "how to" on the door handle fix, it gave me enough of an idea on how to get it done. $15 in aluminum/steel/rivets, some quality time with my father, few beers and curse words later I got it done. Now to find someone to make/stich me a leather hand wrap that's as pretty as yours was...
That's Great Shawn . GM helped with bonding time. Great to find the good in this poor design. Thanks for posting
After 3 sets of door panels for my 2013 Yukon XL I’m not buying a fourth set. I’ll give this repair a try,,just mad as hell I have to do this as my Yukon has been pampered all its life and I don’t care how careful you are this happens again and again. I appreciate you sharing this process and appreciate the time it must take. I’ve also been buying GM trucks all my adult life, I’ve owned 4 different generations of suburban/Yukon all except this one have been great but between the front door panels and lifter noises I’ll be buying a new Toyota Sequoia soon. Thanks again.
I hear ya Russ, Newer ones we have come into the shop seem to be holding up better. If Chevy would have at least came out with an up dated stronger design instead of continuing to sell a poor design I would have bought a new panel but heard the same thing you have experienced. Thanks for posting.
Thank You for Posting This Video. I have a 2013 single cab Silverado 1500. Saw this video over a year ago because my cheesy platic door handle fell apart just like your video shows. Dealer wanted over $500 to replace, but your video inspired me to improvise and come up w a creative solutions like you did. So I ended up faciting a metal plate to the door which will last the truck's life time. The vinyl skin was the only issue I had a problem with. I got it back together, but it looks patched up.
Great video. My 2013 HD did the same thing. I was googling for replacement parts for the door handle when I ran across your video. Watching the video was a lot cheaper than the replacement parts. Thanks, going to give it a shot.
Thanks for the comments. (sorry for the late response/ this just popped up from TH-cam)
Just bought a new truck and this was a major bummer, Thanks for the quality video. Making it very easy for the weekend warriors.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the idea. I have a 2013 Tahoe with 110000 miles. I noticed the weakness of the handle from the moment I bought the truck brand new. Chevy really dropped the ball on this and other cosmetic features of this line. So the handle finally came apart like yours did, although a lot more miles on it. I used aluminum angle as well. I made it more like 11.5" long and extended it towards the rear of truck more than you did. I then rivited a piece of metal like yours to rear bolt point in the metal bracket...not the front one. Because of the longer length, a single strap of metal held the whole angle sufficiently. Thanks!
I have the same problem. Dealer and Chevrolet corporate have been indifferent. New door panel at dealer was $693 last week, so I'll be trying a repair this summer. Thanks for your video.
Your welcome James, If I thought the new panel from the dealer was "new and improved" I would probbly find a way to shell out for a repair for a design that should have never got off the designers CAD system. Good luck on your service.
I just finished my repair on my 2013 Silverado using your instructions. I'm using epoxy to try and secure the rubber handle to the plastic. Hope it works as I could not find another panel in any junkyard to replace the LTZ panel. GM blew this and wants a fortune for a new panel. Thanks for posting this. Great solution to a poor design.
Glad I could help Jim
We should start a class a lawsuit
It would be nice if they just did the right thing and sent out new panels.
What size aluminum angle iron? 3/4x3/4 or 1x1 please let me know also the support brackets what size same thing
It was many years ago. I'll go back into the past comments to find the answers. I think the angle is 3/4.
I just found it, it's actually in the description. It's 3/4-in angle aluminum and is 10 in long. There is also a description for the scraps and screws.
Also the size of the brackets width and overall length before and after I bend them and how much of a lip?
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem on my 2013 Chevy Tahoe and used this fix and it worked great!
Thanks Dan, Glad to be of service.
I have the exact same thing happen on my 2014 Tahoe. Thanks for the video.
Sorry your having the same problem and thanks for the shout out .
My 2013 duramax has done the same thing on the drivers side. I am the original owner and I take care of it. They need to make a recall.
Hi Jordan, I could not agree with you more. Plastic has many great uses in our world today , but things that get pulled and pushed on everyday like door handles for example should not be one of them. I love Chevy but this design really disappointed me. Thank you for posting.
I’m a 5’ tall small woman and the same happened with my 2012 Tahoe. It’s a piece of trash and I wish someone would start a class action lawsuit to fix this, the dash crack, and the door moulding issues. It’s annoying that they are satisfied with their product being so trashy. Thanks for your help!
I just picked up an 09 tahoe, could you enlighten be on molding issue?
2010 yukon with 70,000 miles. dash cracked in 3 spots, chrome on interior handles trashed and sharp, door pulls on interior cracked and smashed, replaced alternator, struts on glass hatch on back along with switch,.....
Great video . My Silverado door just did the same thing with the plastic broken pieces . Trying your method .
Thanks for the feedback Zo, Hope it works out
I did this on my 2013 chevy 3500 ltz and it works well.
My u-brackets were 3 1/8 inside the u and i hooked around new aluminum support and steel door bracket. Also the u bracket cant be wider than 3/4”.
Now have to figure out interior handle aesthetics.
Jeremy sounds like you did a fantastic job thanks for sharing. Let us know what you come up with on the way it looks.
I also wished you had included the installation of the 10" long aluminum angle iron?
Hi and thanks for posting, At the time I did not have a tripod to hold the
camera and needed both hands to do the install.
Below was the best way I could answer this exact question. Hope the install goes ok
I slid it in from the top of the handle and went back in one end far enough to drop the
other end down level with the arm rest then slid it back into the other side to even it out
so the same amount sticks out on each side to attach the brackets.
My 2012 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ has this problem. I very much appreciate you posting this video, but I wonder if you'd be willing to re shoot it as more of a step by step instructional effort? I'd like to see how to remove/reinstall the door panel, for example.
Good Morning Jim, I have been asked this before and originally it was only done to 1. fix our door 2. Show GM how we thought future ones should be made. I left it as shared after a few fellow techs saw it and asked us to keep it up and even add the door wrap experiment. But when the other side breaks We will see if we can do a step by step. Thanks for the very professional way you posed your comment. th-cam.com/video/gIFQyUG91qA/w-d-xo.html this one is not the excext but very close. The main thing is do not force it apart. Take your time.
Same issue with a 2011 gmc sierra 2500HD .. but with mine all plastic is gone and I just have a flappy piece of vinyl hanging down..not sure I have Hope's but your video gave me some ideas thanks for making it
Hopefully you can work out a solution. Thanks for posting
You're welcome and good luck with the repair. I'm sure it will look and work great.
Same problem with 2012 Suburban. Thanks for posting.
I have the same issue with my 2012 Avalanche. I don't know how to do metal work so I will take your idea and this video to aa body shop and see if someone there can help an old lady out. Love my truck but this issue is such a let down. But THANK YOU for sharing your idea.
Good luck with the fix. Hope it helps.
Had a customer ask a good question about getting the aluminum bar in place.
Saw your video on the repair of your 2013 Chevy shop truck armrest. One thing I missed and don't understand, is how you got the alum. angle in place. Did you slide it in from above or from the back side? I just can't seem to figure out the way to do that...
thanks...
Good Morning Earl,
I slid it in from the top of the handle and went back in one end far enough to drop the
other end down level with the arm rest then slid it back into the other side to even it out
so the same amount sticks out on each side to attach the brackets.
I know you posted a few years ago but thanks !!!!
Thanks for that 🤠
My 2014 Tahoe has the same broken handle. Chevy should offer to fix this problem for free.
I agree 100%
I freaking agree too! I have a 2012 GMC Sierra 4x4 All Terrain & I have the same problem too, they priced me at $399.00 for the whole door panel with the same plastic piece.. U must be kidding me.. Thanks for the video..
Naw. It's not as profitable as selling JUST the full interior trim panel for $550 a pop. It's a crappy method of planned obsolescence from a terrible auto maker.
2013 Suburban - same busted driver’s arm rest handle here. Was originally going to see what the dealer would do but upon finding these videos I’m not holding out much hope...
Question for you Cazman. When connecting the brackets to the angle iron did you also use the metal screws? If so how did you manage that with such tight spaces? If not, how did you secure them together? About to attempt this project myself, thanks!
Hi Jason, We screwed the "H" bracket into the crossbar then bent the bracket forward to screw in the top part. I looked for better pictures but could not find any. Sorry again for a late response you tube is still not sending a notification that there is a question for use to answer.
Jason Rairigh I had to remove 2 of the black 7 mm hex screws (and loosen the other 2) on the metal bracket and remove the T15 torx on the underside of the handle to get mine in. I screwed it before installing since I couldn’t screw the aluminum and metal piece together on the front side after installed. Theres a ring that goes around a plastic peg. That’s why I removed the 7mm. Otherwise the ring breaks. But it’s ok if it breaks, you can just pop it back in place. The T15 is so I can remove the bottom sede of the handle grip (the black plastic). The thing that the T15 screwed into was in the way of my U bracket.
My 2014 Tahoe has this problem. Where I live, the dealer price of these door panels is $700-$750 + tax. ( Too bad they don't sell just the armrest alone - it would be much cheaper. ) I'd make the leather wrap longer so it almost touches where the handle joins the armrest at each end, and sew the folds closer to the edges. Nice looking, inexpensive and relatively easy fix you've shown. Thanks for the vid.
Hi Steve, Great idea on the wrap.Real bummer on the cost of the panel. The best I have seen around here was still almost $500.00 by the time you put the sales tax on for a new panel. Thanks for posting.
For my 2012 Tahoe Ltz it costs just under $ 1,000 to get this fixed. If I wasn't still paying on the damn thing, I would shell out the $ or part of it. Entire panel online can be found for $ 325, but let's face it me installing it or doing some metal piece is gonna take me days. I love my Chevy, but crappy door arm rest, cracked dash (in two Tahoes i have owned) I am so annoyed, just won't go Ford though.
Thanks a bunch for making these videos! I waited for a long time until the black plastic outer door handle housing broke off my 2013 Silverado 1500 and there wasn't much white plastic left inside the door at all. I had to use the 3/4" aluminum angle plus the 1/2" steel like you did, in addition to a piece of thin plywood for the top of the armrest to support the foam and ALOT of CA glue. I covered it all with para-cord from Walmart. Total cost was about $17 with a lot of material left over vs $312 for a new door panel.
Thanks for the comments Ed. Glad we could help.
Do you recall dimensions of the aluminum piece? The video mentions the length but I don't recall the other dimension. Looks like 1 1/4" x 1 1/4". Also, but less critical, but do you recall the steel bracket dimensions? Great piece advising us what we can/should do when the armrest breaks. Thanks,
The aluminum piece is 10" long and I ground down the edges .I think it was about 1/2 " or 3/4 inch wide. The metal straps are about 3 1/2 inches long flat stock that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide.
Hi Michael,
Sounds like it may the same or similar. Sorry to hear. So far ours is holding up well with the fix we did last summer. The passenger door does not get much use and still has the original design in it, but is starting to flex some. At some point it too will fail and we will have to removes and redo it as well. :( You might keep checking the aftermarket for a cost efficient replacement as a end game solution. Good luck and thanks for posting.
Great video...saved us $730. Thanks!!
Lori Carlisle your welcome
Do you sell the repair kit? Or can you give me the dimensions for the L bracket and what size self tapping screws are. Thanks been living with this broken for 3 yrs now. And want to fix it asap
Hi Patti, Sorry we do not have a kit for these. I think someone a lot smarter than me could come up with an even better way to do it. The Aluminum stock used to go lengthwise under the old arm rest is 10 " long and 1/2 or 3/4 " wide stock, grind the ends smooth to help when it is time to slide it in. The 2 saddle brackets are 1/2 " wide flat stock and are steel. Measure the distance from the new aluminum cross brace to the factory bracket we were using and make the 90 degree bends. When you slide the cross brace in do it from the back side of the panel and on the right side (opposite the master window switch) and carefully slide it all the way across. The 4 screws are a self tapper flat head phillips and are 3/4 of an inch long. All this is at just about any hardware store. Hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Thanks for sharing the video. Like others, more detailed from start to finish would have been helpful. But the fact that you made this video and shared it with it others, is greatly appreciated. Hindsight is 20/20. Who would have thought interest would be so high for this odd issue. But I think you gave a lot of people a good head start how they can figure out their own fix. So thank you for making and sharing the video with us in the first place....
Your welcome and thanks for the comments.
My 2012 Chevy 1500 armrest just did something similar. The flat spot where you're putting the broken plastic, mine flexed under my elbow and made a popping sound. Now it feels like there's a hole in the middle, under the rubber.
have the same problem for long time on my 2013 2500 hd slt -original owner - any updates as to a recall on this? was going to try something myself thank you for posting
Good morning Karl, Not as yet but hopefully some day or at least a much stronger aftermarket one.
Just repaired mine buy using gorilla glue 2parts epoxy using used dry sheets for filler like fiberglass and then just cut out AMD drilled hole for cable
Sounds great Basil.
I have had the exact same issue since I bought my suburban. No longer have any plastic in that area. Just foam and vinyl left
It is a frustrating design for sure.
Same poor engineering on my 2013 burban ltz. Need to try your fix
I wonder if they designed the door handle be brake during a side impact .
That's been suggested before, but.......it should still last longer than 30,000 miles under normal use. Great ☺️ question and thanks for posting.
@@Craigs_car_care I agree, I know your old enough to remember "Bakelite"(polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride), it as way better that the plastics used today.
Nice video. Im doing this to fix my 2013 Tahoe ltz. 👍
You are welcome Alpha.
Excellent video....I assume that aluminum was .75 x .75 x 10"....I like the paracord final wrap idea...thanks again...good repair that I am sure a lot of people can put to good use.
Hi Stephen, yep it's 3/4 ish, inch wide stock. Thanks for the post and positive shout out. Hope the repair works well for ya. Craig
My 2012 GMC has this issue... is there a way to pull off the arm rest part without taking the whole door panel off? If so I’m sure I can make a permanent fix for it.
Good morning, All the door panel components are melted together in a layer system. I agree they could have at least made this a serviceable item.
Craig's Car Care thanks! I was hoping that wouldn’t be the answer... lol
Now now really you literally kept them for the finale he keeps staging them broken plastic jawns you real mad son real mad fr fr.
Yep mad mad but I'm over it now until the right side breaks LOL thanks for chiming in it gave us all a good laugh here today 😆👍😉😂
My 2013 Avalanche has done it as well, and now completely broken in half, starting to cause my exterior door handle loose if not treated. Im have owned 4 Chevy Trucks and now will look at Fords as well. I just lost my job and cant afford this right now. Unfortuanate. Thanks for your video.
It is frustrating for sure Bradrhea . Thanks for posting and good luck on the job hunt.
Im going to try and fix my handle on my truck this weekend I got the 10” aluminum angle. What are the dimensions on the flat bar clips? Are those 3/4” flanges?
The aluminum piece is 10" long and I ground down the edges .I think it was about 1/2 " or 3/4 inch wide. The metal straps are about 3 1/2 inches long flat stock that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide
So 3 1/2” long including the 1/2” flanges ? So layout would be 4 1/2” x 1/2” is that correct? Im trying to fab these up at work so I can take them home and bang it out this weekend.
@@JessieMorales2 I went through the video clips and still pictures but do not have the measurements. We made these on the fly and just did not write them down.
Great Video wished you would of gave dimensions of fabricated parts of aluminum angle iron and steel braces but thanks anyway it will get me going in right direction
Hi Rob, Originally I just did this and sent it to Chevy in hopes they would make the new ones better.
I never anticipated such a response from people. Thanks for a great question and good luck with the project.
Craig's Car Care
8 months ago
The aluminum piece is 10" long and I ground down the edges .I think it was about 1/2 " or 3/4 inch wide. The metal straps are about 3 1/2 inches long flat stock that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide.
@@Craigs_car_care thank you so much i was thinking it was .75 x.75 aluminum angle iron thanks so much for reply your the best
@@Rcracin8 Your welcome Rob.
I have same issue with my 2013 GMC Yukon SLE. Where are you located and where can I get Service in Dallas area?
Hi Mr. Nichelson,
I really appreciate your asking.
We do not have this just right yet and are not offering it as a service to date. We did want to share what we have done so far for anyone wanting to do it themselves .
The biggest challenge has been the cosmetics in that after the bracing is done you have to fill the gap with foam and then make a wrap since the leather will have nothing to adhere to once the plastic is gone. We have made a few hand sewn leather wraps using velcro to hold the wrap around the handle with only so/so results. I keep hoping Dorman or someone will take the lead on this and make a new door panel assembly. Thanks again for asking.
Craig, Thanks again for the reply. JZ
Any time!
Craig, I know you said the length of the aluminum piece is 10 inches. How about the two steel stock brackets? JZ
Hi Jim, we originally made this and sent it to GM for them to learn from for future use. It was only after having it up that we discovered that others had interest in it. With that said we did not size it,but rather bent each one to fit. I think they were around 3 inches each plus the bends. Once you get the cross bar in measure from the cross bar to the metal part of the door bracket that is already part of the door. Then add about an inch or so for the two bends in the bracket that are for the screws that are used to secure it all together. Sorry I don't have more for you. Thanks for posting and good luck with the fix.
This the same problem I have been having. Been waiting for some bulletin to come down for a "fix". Very disappointing. Thinking of a different product as well. Feel the same way as you do about have had them for years...
Russell Jacobson yep. It would be nice to see a recall and have GM make this right.
Craig's Car Care I am keeping track of my visits to shop and emailed to dealer about this and my next step will be the Better Business Bureau.
Thanks Russell, Let us know how this comes out.
If they would’ve done that from the factory it would’ve been an $80,000 truck lol.
Ha,Ha,Ha, Soooooo true :) Thanks for posting.
Mine is broken on my 2012 Silverado. I also have a 1997 Silverado 300,000 miles and my door handle (arm rest) is still solid.
I heard that Richard! My 1994 is still rock solid.
I have the same problem on my 2013 Silverado 1500 WT. And, as always, I didn't learn about your repair until I bought a new panel from Courtesy Chevrolet here in Phoenix at a cost of $318.00...Ouch!!! After watching your video I think I will try to 'beef up' the new panel before I install it. I will then make your repair idea to the old one and either save it or maybe offer it up on Craig's List. I am curious, it is now almost 3 years since you posted this video; Do you know if anyone is now offering an aftermarket replacement Arm Rest? At any rate, thanks for a great repair idea in this 'Throw it away and buy another' world we live in.
That's a great Idea Robert to beef it up, the price you got it for was not to bad also. A while back a youtuber said he was quoted about $450.00 for one. Thanks for sharing the info.
I have the same issue. These videos would have been 100% helpful if you showed the actual install of the aluminum piece.
Jeff Jones great point. I really do need to get a tripod do I can work hands free and show more of the 'in action "stuff. Thanks for the post.
i bought a chevy 2013 , with the same problem, actually it diesnt have anything of the handle, i had to rebuild it completly
i had a 2004 chevy silverado and they ddint have that problem
Have the same exact problem with my 2012 Suburban LT 4wd
Man that is a bummer. Thanks for posting.
I made a handle out of oak. I was able to get two screws through the metal bracket into the wood. Should be rock solid. The finishing touch is to glue the rubber down on the top near the back of the handle. The leather wrap is the backup plan. #PoorEngineeringChevy
Great idea Menina. Thanks for sharing your fix.
Where are you located? I would like to get mine fixed. :) I have a 2013 1500 LTZ the exact same thing happen to mine.
Were in Allen Texas. We do not have the final process completed yet (cosmetics) and so were not able to offer this for a service as of yet and do not have plans to do so in the future.
This video was more to show you how to do this yourself. Labor time is about 4 hours so we're getting close to the price of just buying a new one, this would make offering this for a service not the best use of your money. Sorry but thanks for asking,
Decent video, Give you an idea how to fix it. I don't know why you would not have put in the video of actually installing the angle iron and the screws for the braces. That was the key part, And you skipped over it.
Honestly Steve, It originally was only to send to GM to vent my frustration as a 30 year Chevy lover about a 30K truck that's door fell apart in 30,000 miles. It was only later that guys at the shop said I should share it so other truck owners could see it and have an idea on how to fix it rather than eat $500.00. I never thought the fix was that good as the wrap on video 2 came out subpar. I do appreciate your insight. To put in the bar you had to push it the area then wiggle it back an forth to get it aligned. I had so much plastic already broken out there was a decent amount of room.
It's too bad that, about half way through, it's so hard to make out what you're saying in the video with the music in the background. I like AC/DC as well as the next guy bit it would be really nice to hear what you were saying.
You should sell a DIY fixit kit.
Hi Gary,
Interesting thought, A kit would add to the cost of a few simple parts that can be bought at the local hardware store. I was looking more at helping others come up with an idea on how to fix their broken door handle as opposed to a sales opportunity. Thanks for the feedback and have a great day :).
Ill buy one.
I have the same truck, just different trim package, and I have the same issue. It's ridiculous that they would neglect such an important part.
It sure is, I feel they should have made this right as many of these failed very early and it was clearly a design flaw. I hope you get yours fixed ok and thanks for posting.
Your estimate to have it repaired comes up a little short. I spoke to my dealer and was told it would be about $575. I've owned a lot of different GM products and three Tahoes, the most recent is a 2013 model, but this is the first time anything like this has ever happened. The designer must have been a first-year engineering student.
Yikes! And did they say it was a new improved model or the same stuff? I agree on past quality, and yep an engineer still in training with no oversight and never closed a door on a car or truck built this one.
I can only assume the replacement would be the same poor quality since GM didn't issue any service bulletins on the problem.
I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for checking Bob.
The reason they did that, was in the case of a side impact, the plastic will break and not impales you in the ribs. But now, prepare to be seriously ripped open.
Well Andrew you have several great points with safety systems that may have been engineered into the door and the door closing handle. Also taking a Bus is not an option where we live :( . I am also not sure if we would be allowed to carry all the cargo we haul in the trucks on the bus. :) .I sure do appreciate your thinking outside of the box and sharing it. Still, we would have liked to have had a little stronger option for closing the door. Thanks again and take care.
Found your post because I, too, have the same problem. I would have thought that Chevy might have done a recall, but no...I owned a lot of Chevy products through the years and been pretty lucky I guess, but this design really is total garbage.
Plastic may be okay all over cars but to take a work truck and stick it all over the dash where it cracks and all over the doors where they pull apart is pretty cheap of Chevy. I expect it from Ford and n Chrysler but not Chevrolet.
MY 2012 SUBURBAN LT has the same problem....
Yep it seems to be a pretty common thing I keep waiting for an aftermarket company to start making these. I don't want to buy one from the dealerbecause it's going to be the same design and won't last.
@@Craigs_car_care Exactly....The cheapest I found was 387 for the whole panel....I'm going to try a home fix on mine as well...
16 minute long video...doesn't even show how to put the angle iron I'm the door. That was a waste of time.
2013 Chevy 2500 HD with a broken drivers inside door armrest show & tell only. (This video was originally made just so GM could see what we thought would be a better idea and was never intended to be a step by step how too, we apologize in advance and when the other side breaks we will try and make a step by step "How to")
My 2013 2500HD did the same thing. I’m really disappointed in this truck and the quality of workmanship in it. And I’ve always been a Chevy girl..
Jennifer I feel your pain! I love Chevy and when this happened it felt like a real let down. I have had older Chevy trucks and cars with very positive results. I am holding out hope they will get back on track.
Thanks for posting.
You showed nothing in your video not how to take it off, how you fixed it nothing. The piece you made and put in. Not sure how this would help anyone
Apex 223 Good point about how to take the door panel off. The piece re enforces the arm where the plastic breaks. Part 2 makes the cover. A subscriber on here had a great idea about using paracord to wrap it after the steel piece is added. Thanks for posting.
All that plastic should have been aluminum.
Amen! :)
Oh yes!!!
2013 Tahoe with this issue and also exterior handles on 2 doors are loose. There’s too much plastic crap put into cars these days.
Yes, way to much plastic indeed. Thanks for the comments 🙂
Too much talking man, get to the repair!
Ha, Great Point , Originally this was made only to send to GM as what they should do for an updated panel. After a bunch of friends saw it they said I should post it to TH-cam so others could get an idea on how to do their own repair. I never thought it would be this interesting to folks. Hence the lack of details of a "how to do it yourself" Appreciate the comments and good luck with your door.
Craig's Car Care Still a great video!
Hey guys so I just fixed this on my truck, used this video as a starting point but took a different approach to securing the aluminum angle bracket to the metal back plate. Hope this helps.
th-cam.com/video/3OdRkHQ5hfc/w-d-xo.html
my 2013 Yukon xl, same broken handle
Bummer
2012 Tahoe same issue
Thats what happend to my 2010 2500 hd chevy.
Bummer Pablo , I didn't know that design was failing that far back. Thanks for the information.
I figured it wasn't worth the time to fix this and bought a 100 dollar Escalade door to replace this. GM made such a nice truck with this shitty engineering on the interior. they changed the doors too in 2010. look at a 2008 versus a 2013 door panel
Thanks for the tip. Nice to have choices, and yes the door design was a fail.
th-cam.com/video/s4_WSkrVWLQ/w-d-xo.html Part two for the cosmetic side of this project.
Omg I didn’t think I was gonna see more broken plastic thingies.....
But here we go again complaining more about that then actually working on it he’s killing me already.
Yep I can be down on it because it's my own truck but I did do something about it and gave other people ideas how to do their own version of The fix without spending $500 for a factory one. Thanks for your input.
Enginers today are just paper trained kids who have never worked on anything in their lives. Let alone what their hired to engineer. Most manifactures today design parts and labor into their products. Why because the products are worth more in their individual pieces and the dealers make more money changing these parts.
Great point Mark. This would have been an easy one for even the most basic fundamental lesson two have picked apart for a design failure. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
@@Craigs_car_care Your welcome. I'm a mechanic for a heavy equipment dealer. It's getting worse every day they deliberately design failers into their products as well as labor intensive repairs to fix those design failures. The automotive industry is way worse their getting so labor intensive that people don't want to work on them anymore. People need to start calling them out on what their doing and filing complaints with their state attorny generals office. When they clearly indentify these unessesary part failures and intensive repairs to fix these failures. I'm filing one now about what the dealer charged me to change a oil pressure switch. According to the factory manual you have to remove the intake manifold ??? What ?? Why. Which would also mean that the intake manifold gaskets will need to be replaced. How ever my parts to replace that switch don't show any new intake gaskets. Why because they don't do it that way they. I have changed them myself what they do is using wobble socket and extension. They reach in behind the intake and remove and install the switch in about 30min.. Then charge you the labor to remove the intake to change the switch. Which to me is theft but that aside why would you design replacing a switch so that the top intake on your engine would have to be removed. Answer unessesary parts and labor a half hour labor and $20.00 part is now a $600.00 job. If done as per the factory manual. Sorry for the long winded reply. I guess I had to get that off my chest.
@@markwiegand9334 Well put and I understand your frustration level.
Love that music NOT !!
LOL TJ. Yep, I should have turned off the radio in the shop. But I think I would have also had 5 really big guys coming after me too. Thanks for posting.
@@Craigs_car_care thanks for the video anyway good job
These door panels are a POS! If they had made the plastic reinforcement panel solid instead of honeycomb, it may have held up a little longer. Plus they used a thin brittle plastic. Designed by over educated morons who have no grasp of the real life use of these vehicles. I'm working on a 2012 high end Avalanch and it is a cheap built vehicle. Would not own a late model GM product. Should have let them crash and burn. Maybe, but I doubt it, they would have learned something.
I feel and share your pain. Thanks for sharing.
The video was great. Could have done without all of the commentary….Geesh.
Thanks Steven I was just venting. Thanks for understanding :-)
We get it you’re mad about the plastic broken being.
You have no idea just had disappointed I actually was over a $40,000 truck having such a crap design. But I didn't just cry about it I did something about it. And it's given lots of other people ideas how to do their own and all kinds of other cool ways. Thanks for your two cents and yep by the way I was mad about it I'm over it now LOL. 🤣
Not really helpful at all
Sorry we could be more helpful Dominique. Thanks for sharing.
This is why engineers should be managed by a mechanic..... Who at Chevy thought this was a good fucking design. You can get the arm wrest for 95 bucks but how much in time and labor is it going to cost you.... looks like several hours to me of my weekend. I can pick up the whole panel from ebay for 600.. seems a little high but then again.. This is why shit costs so much today... 3 fucking screws could have save 600 in labor.
I just finished my repair on my 2013 Silverado using your instructions. I'm using epoxy to try and secure the rubber handle to the plastic. Hope it works as I could not find another panel in any junkyard to replace the LTZ panel. GM blew this and wants a fortune for a new panel. Thanks for posting this. Great solution to a poor design.
Glad I could help Jim