Did this repair successfully as your video shows. Added a metal rod inside due to the black plastic part was broken in half. Secured the rod to the plastic with zip ties then filled the cavity with the window weld. Can be messy, but have rags and wd 40 to remove any on your hands. Gloves worked for awhile but couldn't keep replacing them with sweaty hands. Used a regular caulk gun although had to use both hands some of the time.....however I am a 74 year old 5 ft 2 female with small hands. It can be done! Really appreciate the video. Very happy with the results!
Just wanted to share that I did this fix and did decide to insert a 1/4" round rod through the handle. I taped everything off (to the extreme) to keep it clean, and in total this repair took me about 30 minutes to accomplish. I bought the 3M Window Weld at a local automotive refinishing supply store for $35, and now that the product has had time to set for about 3 days, it is incredibly solid. I did take care to leave the foam cushioning at the top of the door handle. To be honest, it looks, and feels as good as new, and probably 10x as strong as when new.
Thanks for the great video and instructions! I just did both front handles on our 2012 Suburban. The white plastic inside both was broken in pieces. I pulled the broken plastic out, filled the space with 3m window weld, the put an 8" x 1" x 1/4" aluminum bar on top of that, and under the foam. I left the foam in the handle. Taped it up with masking tape, let sit for 36 hours. When I took the tape off I had to wipe the skim of window weld that was left behind off the inside of the handle, but after that it looks great. Very firm and looks new. I did cover the door and under the handle with masking paper & tape, and changed gloves regularly while using the window weld. One caulk-gun size tube was plenty to do both door handles.
Thanks for posting this video. Everything went as planned and I added a small 1/4" rod to act like rebar for additional reinforcement. 3 days later its very solid. Hoping for the same in the months/years to come.
I tried your fix... It worked great.... I went a couple steps further... Adding reinforcement under and on outside interior edge.... Looks and works great.... Saved me hundreds....
Thak you for the video. I just fixed my door handle today. I left the foam in and used a 10"x1/2"x1/8" aluminum bar stock to add extra support. I inserted the alum bar into one side of the handle and left the other end, towards the door controls, out. Next I filled the empty cavity with the 3m window weld then used a needle nose pliers to slide the bar into the channel on top of the internal plastic frame. The bar fit perfect into this channel. I squeezed some more weld on top of the bar, under the foam, so it would all stay together. I used duct tape to tighten the handle onto itself. For clean up I used lighter fluid that takes the weld right off. I used a lot of gloves and changed them often to keep the mess to a minimum.
Followed your go by. Worked perfectly. Stronger than before. The 3M will slightly expand over the 3 weeks no need to fill the 3M to the top, maybe a couple of millimeters from the top.
Hey, so I did this fix on both driver and passenger door handles on my 2013 Suburban. It's not quite as easy to do and have it come out flawlessly as you might think. One door was really broken up a lot, so it was really difficult to keep the two broken halves of the black plastic (that the palm of your hand touch on the inside of the handle) in place and meeting up nicely on one door. I tried super gluing them back together first, but it didn't work well. But, the urethane method shown above did provide a nice rigid pull again; I just didn't manage to make the shape of the finished handle look like new. I did insert 11-12" long 1/4" steel rod like some other commenters mentioned. On the passenger door (I did that after the driver door), the interior wasn't as broken, and I chose to leave some of the interior parts inside to hold onto the black plastic part - to keep it from shifting around as much as it did on the driver side, and that worked. But, with the extra parts in there (and I kept the foam on top), the steel rod ended up causing a bulge about where your thumb hits the handle. For a car with 160k miles, it's not bad, and it's WAY better than when the handle was flimsy, but it didn't come out looking like new. Not a problem with the described method, just with my ability to make it come out perfect. I'd do it again, but I wanted to warn people that there can be complications that may make it look not as perfect as you'd like. Good luck!
Thanks for this video. My pull has been broken/weak underneath for a while. I finally got around to finding out what I need for it, and DIY is a common fix! This video is great, and I'll be working on a similar solution for my vehicle. (2013 Chevy Avalanche Black Diamond LT)
I'm going give this a try Monday, The door panels are over $500 now....update. Jake I did it today, used the same stuff, I used wire ties to secure it and put graf tape on the handle to keep it clean. The bottom of my handle was broke so I super glued that first , I used rubbing acolohal to clean up the handle, I will see in a couple days how it worked out. This was the best idea I have seen so far!
I have a 2009 Silverado Extended Cab LT and have not had any problems with my door handles falling apart. I also have those body side moldings and on one of mine the paint started cracking and peeling. I had a body shop remove that molding and repaint it. Now it looks like new, like the rest of them. The solution is to wax them since they are painted and they will stay looking nice like the rest of the truck does when you wax it. I try and wax my truck twice a year.
I work at a used car lot...usually the newer models are the ones that break apart...like 2011-2013... previous models are very solid. I think the newer models have longer pull handles and not as solid...I will try this out...
i just have buyed a 2013 chevy pick up and it has the exact same problem , but kind of worst because the back platic piece is missing, i think i first have to replace it with a square bar or something like that
Now that you've had this repair for over a year, how has it held up? Is there anything that you would do differently? I have the exact same problem on my 2012 Silverado 3500HD LTZ, and I'm to much of a cheapskate to buy a whole new inner door panel ($500+ now!) from my dealer, especially since the construction is identical to the original.
After a year, its still very strong and nothing has changed as far as deterioration. If I did it again I might imbed a metal rod inside the handle to further reinforce the window weld adhesive.
@@isreal111982 Approximately what diameter metal rod would you use, and how would you put it in there? Would you have to cut through those perpendicular plastic walls that form those individual sections, in order to lower it in there? And would you have the rod extend about an inch past each end? I, too, think the rod would add strength, just having trouble visualizing putting it in. Thanks.
@@hammerhead5410 yup sold that damn thing. But to answer your question my buddy did wat another guy did in here piece of round pipe and long screws and bolted to the back plate.
I'm about to make the same repair.... I watch two different videos on DIY repairs and I think I might combine the two... the first video involved pulling the entire door skin, putting a piece of aluminum angle in where all the broken plastic cam out and then making two brackets (out of metal flat stock) that supported the aluminum angle for pull strength back to the metal support that bolts to the door. My thoughts are either a 10 to 11 inch piece of metal square stock or metal rod laid in a bed of this 3M Window Weld material and than filling the balance of the cavity with the more of the 3M Window Weld. With the metal rod embedded in the 3M Window Weld I don't think I can go wrong! Any thoughts?
I'll be biased to my repair of course. The 3m window stuff is strong enough in my opinion. That's the whole beauty of this simple fix. But you can't go wrong with overkill if you want to take the effort. Thanks 😊
I would be concerned about using the metal in the handle. The issue could be that in the event of a side crash, the metal could be thrusted into the driver. So I would use the 3M product and not the metal reinforcement but that is just my opinion.
Why did you not sue them for not having a fix for that panel? Some people still paying notes on them trucks. Mines doing the same thing Don't you think it's their fault?
From watching videos it appears my options are either repair / rig it like this (or another method) OR buy a new panel for $375 So I'm going to try your method $52 fix
Thanks for the video, would taking the panel off benefit in any way do you think? Mine is just starting to roll over a little and kinda wanna tackle it before it gets bad
I have the same problem on my 2012. Wanted to see if your repair is still holding up? My plastic has just barely begun to break on the inside toward the door panel so the vinyl handle material slips and turns a little as you grab or twist the handle. If your Window Weld is holding I think this may be the easiest repair I have seen for this problem.
Absolutely holding up wonderful. No issues. Go for it. But I would still break and remove all the internal plastic so the thick window weld has room to move around and do its job.
Yea I thought so seems kinda crazy though to buy a new panel the plastic broke in mine it seems like they make one for it in every other model but the ltz
That's a really messy product to use. I bought some J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty off Amazon, pulled out the broken plastic pieces, masked the area, mixed the putty, pushed the entire pack into the lower area where the crack was, then taped the top of the handle back into place using more masking tape. 24 Hours later and the door handle is fixed and rigid and it cost $8.63!
There's a lot of open space under that pull handle. did you just focus on the contact points between the upper piece of vinyl and the bottom area? That's what is pulling up for me.
@@morecowbell235 My break was in the inside middle of the door, I removed the broken pieces of white plastic and filled the void with the putty. Said putty isn't runny or a liquid, more like a solid. I packed it into the center void where the break was. 4 Months on I'd forgotten the door handle was ever broken till your reply.
@@NigelBallard got it, thanks. I picked up some plastic weld stuff, but its not putty its the two tubes that mix. Hopefully I can successfully fix my issue with it.
Only complete panels can be purchased because they have "welded" the armrest to the panel. On the rear door, an armrest could be removed, not front (at least without some cutting). I've replaced a few door panels with used ones, but be aware older versions (e.g. 07) and newer versions (e.g. 14) have different switch bezels, reflectors and lower pockets and a slightly different way it mounts to the door.
@@thebsmithimages6544 my door handle is made of plastic! It broke and they'res no replacement for it, so now I have to buy an $800 door panel so I can have a door handle to close my door!
Did this repair successfully as your video shows. Added a metal rod inside due to the black plastic part was broken in half. Secured the rod to the plastic with zip ties then filled the cavity with the window weld. Can be messy, but have rags and wd 40 to remove any on your hands. Gloves worked for awhile but couldn't keep replacing them with sweaty hands. Used a regular caulk gun although had to use both hands some of the time.....however I am a 74 year old 5 ft 2 female with small hands. It can be done! Really appreciate the video. Very happy with the results!
Just wanted to share that I did this fix and did decide to insert a 1/4" round rod through the handle. I taped everything off (to the extreme) to keep it clean, and in total this repair took me about 30 minutes to accomplish. I bought the 3M Window Weld at a local automotive refinishing supply store for $35, and now that the product has had time to set for about 3 days, it is incredibly solid. I did take care to leave the foam cushioning at the top of the door handle. To be honest, it looks, and feels as good as new, and probably 10x as strong as when new.
I am going to try too aand I will leave the foam in as well
UPDATE: after two weeks the 3M window weld product has gotten harder and firmer, making this fix even better! Would definitely do it again.
how did it hold up after 3 years?
@@REKKnives still looks and holds up excellent. No problems
Thanks for the great video and instructions! I just did both front handles on our 2012 Suburban. The white plastic inside both was broken in pieces. I pulled the broken plastic out, filled the space with 3m window weld, the put an 8" x 1" x 1/4" aluminum bar on top of that, and under the foam. I left the foam in the handle. Taped it up with masking tape, let sit for 36 hours. When I took the tape off I had to wipe the skim of window weld that was left behind off the inside of the handle, but after that it looks great. Very firm and looks new. I did cover the door and under the handle with masking paper & tape, and changed gloves regularly while using the window weld. One caulk-gun size tube was plenty to do both door handles.
Thanks for posting this video. Everything went as planned and I added a small 1/4" rod to act like rebar for additional reinforcement. 3 days later its very solid. Hoping for the same in the months/years to come.
I tried your fix... It worked great.... I went a couple steps further... Adding reinforcement under and on outside interior edge.... Looks and works great.... Saved me hundreds....
Thak you for the video. I just fixed my door handle today. I left the foam in and used a 10"x1/2"x1/8" aluminum bar stock to add extra support. I inserted the alum bar into one side of the handle and left the other end, towards the door controls, out. Next I filled the empty cavity with the 3m window weld then used a needle nose pliers to slide the bar into the channel on top of the internal plastic frame. The bar fit perfect into this channel. I squeezed some more weld on top of the bar, under the foam, so it would all stay together. I used duct tape to tighten the handle onto itself. For clean up I used lighter fluid that takes the weld right off. I used a lot of gloves and changed them often to keep the mess to a minimum.
Great fix! I just performed this myself and like other commenters I added a steel rod and left the foam on top. Thanks so much for this.
Another satisfied customer. I purchased this product and followed your instructions. It was near perfect. Thanks
Followed your go by. Worked perfectly. Stronger than before. The 3M will slightly expand over the 3 weeks no need to fill the 3M to the top, maybe a couple of millimeters from the top.
Hey, so I did this fix on both driver and passenger door handles on my 2013 Suburban. It's not quite as easy to do and have it come out flawlessly as you might think. One door was really broken up a lot, so it was really difficult to keep the two broken halves of the black plastic (that the palm of your hand touch on the inside of the handle) in place and meeting up nicely on one door. I tried super gluing them back together first, but it didn't work well. But, the urethane method shown above did provide a nice rigid pull again; I just didn't manage to make the shape of the finished handle look like new. I did insert 11-12" long 1/4" steel rod like some other commenters mentioned. On the passenger door (I did that after the driver door), the interior wasn't as broken, and I chose to leave some of the interior parts inside to hold onto the black plastic part - to keep it from shifting around as much as it did on the driver side, and that worked. But, with the extra parts in there (and I kept the foam on top), the steel rod ended up causing a bulge about where your thumb hits the handle. For a car with 160k miles, it's not bad, and it's WAY better than when the handle was flimsy, but it didn't come out looking like new. Not a problem with the described method, just with my ability to make it come out perfect. I'd do it again, but I wanted to warn people that there can be complications that may make it look not as perfect as you'd like. Good luck!
Thanks for this video. My pull has been broken/weak underneath for a while. I finally got around to finding out what I need for it, and DIY is a common fix! This video is great, and I'll be working on a similar solution for my vehicle. (2013 Chevy Avalanche Black Diamond LT)
I used your video and it was perfect. Thank you! I did use a solid works high thrust caulk gun to make the caulking easy. Worked like a charm.
I'm going give this a try Monday, The door panels are over $500 now....update. Jake I did it today, used the same stuff, I used wire ties to secure it and put graf tape on the handle to keep it clean. The bottom of my handle was broke so I super glued that first , I used rubbing acolohal to clean up the handle, I will see in a couple days how it worked out. This was the best idea I have seen so far!
Thank you bro! I needed this. Easy fix. God bless you
Construction adhesive may have been an even better product to use. I have used it to fix a truck door mirror and it worked well.
Really liked your method and think I'll proceed with mine shortly. Thanks for sharing.
I have a 2009 Silverado Extended Cab LT and have not had any problems with my door handles falling apart. I also have those body side moldings and on one of mine the paint started cracking and peeling. I had a body shop remove that molding and repaint it. Now it looks like new, like the rest of them. The solution is to wax them since they are painted and they will stay looking nice like the rest of the truck does when you wax it. I try and wax my truck twice a year.
I work at a used car lot...usually the newer models are the ones that break apart...like 2011-2013... previous models are very solid. I think the newer models have longer pull handles and not as solid...I will try this out...
Thanks...I have the exact same problem and will give it try.
Exactly the same problem. Thanks a ton
Will I still be able to take the door panel without resistance?
Awesome. Just what I was hoping to find.
Was it one tube to fix both sides or do I need to order a tube per side? I am thinking one per side...
I have the same issue but the the arm is all broken already what can i do now?
Not sure without looking at it.. Might have to start over with a new one.
i just have buyed a 2013 chevy pick up and it has the exact same problem , but kind of worst because the back platic piece is missing, i think i first have to replace it with a square bar or something like that
Bought
How does it stand up over the years?
What brand and style are your fender flairs? I have a 2013 2500hd thst's starting to bubble around the bed wheel opening.
Right when you said, “ I should have worn gloves for this!”
Now that you've had this repair for over a year, how has it held up? Is there anything that you would do differently? I have the exact same problem on my 2012 Silverado 3500HD LTZ, and I'm to much of a cheapskate to buy a whole new inner door panel ($500+ now!) from my dealer, especially since the construction is identical to the original.
After a year, its still very strong and nothing has changed as far as deterioration. If I did it again I might imbed a metal rod inside the handle to further reinforce the window weld adhesive.
@@isreal111982 Approximately what diameter metal rod would you use, and how would you put it in there? Would you have to cut through those perpendicular plastic walls that form those individual sections, in order to lower it in there? And would you have the rod extend about an inch past each end? I, too, think the rod would add strength, just having trouble visualizing putting it in. Thanks.
@@ldr8068 the rod wouldn't have to be attached to anything. It's just imbedded in there to reduce flexibility. I would use a 1/4 inch rod.
Does anyone have a link to purchase a new one mine is missing I don’t have anything to go off just the black top rubber piece. Thanks y’all
I’m in the same boat. You find a fix??
@@hammerhead5410 yup sold that damn thing. But to answer your question my buddy did wat another guy did in here piece of round pipe and long screws and bolted to the back plate.
I'm about to make the same repair.... I watch two different videos on DIY repairs and I think I might combine the two... the first video involved pulling the entire door skin, putting a piece of aluminum angle in where all the broken plastic cam out and then making two brackets (out of metal flat stock) that supported the aluminum angle for pull strength back to the metal support that bolts to the door.
My thoughts are either a 10 to 11 inch piece of metal square stock or metal rod laid in a bed of this 3M Window Weld material and than filling the balance of the cavity with the more of the 3M Window Weld. With the metal rod embedded in the 3M Window Weld I don't think I can go wrong! Any thoughts?
I'll be biased to my repair of course. The 3m window stuff is strong enough in my opinion. That's the whole beauty of this simple fix. But you can't go wrong with overkill if you want to take the effort. Thanks 😊
I bedding a rod is little effort. That wouldn't hurt either. Just so you don't have to take the door apart.
I would be concerned about using the metal in the handle. The issue could be that in the event of a side crash, the metal could be thrusted into the driver. So I would use the 3M product and not the metal reinforcement but that is just my opinion.
Why did you not sue them for not having a fix for that panel? Some people still paying notes on them trucks.
Mines doing the same thing
Don't you think it's their fault?
Your hired! Where can I drop my Tahoe off at!?😂
Do you think this will work for 2011 Chevy avalanche
Absolutely should work!
Will try this, thanks for the fix, how is it holding up?
After 5 months it has gotten a lot harder and more solid. I'm very happy with this fix.
Can you show the wheels and tires in a better video. Have the same colored truck and the wheels look pretty good
From watching videos it appears my options are either repair / rig it like this (or another method) OR buy a new panel for $375 So I'm going to try your method $52 fix
Thanks for the video, would taking the panel off benefit in any way do you think? Mine is just starting to roll over a little and kinda wanna tackle it before it gets bad
I have the same problem on my 2012. Wanted to see if your repair is still holding up? My plastic has just barely begun to break on the inside toward the door panel so the vinyl handle material slips and turns a little as you grab or twist the handle. If your Window Weld is holding I think this may be the easiest repair I have seen for this problem.
Absolutely holding up wonderful. No issues. Go for it. But I would still break and remove all the internal plastic so the thick window weld has room to move around and do its job.
Sounds like a good fix.Do it have to be the black window weld? Or can it be another kind of hardener like gorilla glue
I would not recommend another glue then the 3M window weld shown. I needs to be thick and dry hard and flexible.
@@isreal111982 thanks
Is there a replacement arm rest for the panel because I have the same issue and can’t find it anywhere
As far as i know you can't buy it separately.
Yea I thought so seems kinda crazy though to buy a new panel the plastic broke in mine it seems like they make one for it in every other model but the ltz
What product did you use to fill in it. Thanks!
My 07 yukon has a completely solid handle here no plastic but my 13 has this crap.
I've noticed that too. Gm made it worse with these 13's. The Denali was better.
You neglected to say a $100 gun to dispense the 3M stuff.
Hi Jake thank you for the video, quick question what do you used to glues the body trim?
you can use this same glue for body trim
GM needs to do better
The plastic just literally fell apart so now i have to fabricate something to do this to. 🤬🤬
Tried this...did not work.
What happened that it did not work?
That's a really messy product to use. I bought some J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty off Amazon, pulled out the broken plastic pieces, masked the area, mixed the putty, pushed the entire pack into the lower area where the crack was, then taped the top of the handle back into place using more masking tape. 24 Hours later and the door handle is fixed and rigid and it cost $8.63!
There's a lot of open space under that pull handle. did you just focus on the contact points between the upper piece of vinyl and the bottom area? That's what is pulling up for me.
@@morecowbell235 My break was in the inside middle of the door, I removed the broken pieces of white plastic and filled the void with the putty. Said putty isn't runny or a liquid, more like a solid. I packed it into the center void where the break was. 4 Months on I'd forgotten the door handle was ever broken till your reply.
@@NigelBallard got it, thanks. I picked up some plastic weld stuff, but its not putty its the two tubes that mix. Hopefully I can successfully fix my issue with it.
I am working on designing a 3D printed part. im gonna be a millionaire
You give good information but PLEASE STOP THE VERTICAL VIDEOS you make it difficult to watch.
👏
Door panel is $600
Wtf really damn.
Will they sell you just the armrest part I mines is missing completely. Thanks
Only complete panels can be purchased because they have "welded" the armrest to the panel. On the rear door, an armrest could be removed, not front (at least without some cutting). I've replaced a few door panels with used ones, but be aware older versions (e.g. 07) and newer versions (e.g. 14) have different switch bezels, reflectors and lower pockets and a slightly different way it mounts to the door.
I have a 2012 Silverado. And i gotta tell ya i am not impressed with the quality of it.
I have a 2011. Everything is made out of cheap plastic
@@thebsmithimages6544 my door handle is made of plastic! It broke and they'res no replacement for it, so now I have to buy an $800 door panel so I can have a door handle to close my door!
@@thebsmithimages6544right now I have to spend 700$! for a new door panel!!🤬🤬
Dude easy on your truck! Stop chewing out it!🤦♂️😆
You're nothin but spare parts, aren't ya bud?