How to Brake Bleed the FK8 Honda Civic Type R: th-cam.com/video/nB7qYUIv6X4/w-d-xo.html Your likes and subscribes really help out this channel, thank you!
Just purchased a 17 FK8 with 30k miles and a 110k mile warranty that’ll cover pretty much everything besides rim damage oil changes and brakes. Great video. Gave me confidence on maintaining the car on my own.
Thank you for the comment and congrats on your purchase! This car is really great and I think looks better than the latest model. Feel free to check back in when you start doing your own DIY maintenance.
I appreciate the kind words and I'll see about getting some more Type R content. Thank you as well for subscribing, it really helps me out! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Try pinching the metal clips the screw goes into together some. Just a guess based on what you said but the screws are pretty short and once the cover is there, it's now not reaching the back of the clip where it fastens. Let me know if that works or share more info and I'll see if I can help more.
Hi, I have the same generation Civic, but with a 1.5 engine. In the instructions, it only says for the ACEA specification, but not for the API. I need to use the same spec for mine if I ever buy another brand of oil and does it have to be 0W-20? Because in the instructions there is also an alternative of 0W-30 or 5W-30. Would either of these two be better? For now, I'm taking the car to an authorized service center.
Hi, I'm guessing you are in Europe (or at least not in the US) looking at a manual for that region. ACEA is just the EU oil standard while API is US--literally the American Petroleum Institute. The Castrol oil I used in the video meets both API and ACEA standards. As for oil weight, you can use whatever the manual recommends but generally go with the main weight recommendation. The other weights are usually for heavy duty or different weather regions. I hope this helps.
@@mldiy Yes, I am European. I know that ACEA is a European standard and API is an American one. I had a Mazda before and the manual listed both specs and I chose the oil because they matched. In terms of temperatures, it can reach up to 40 °C (104 °F) in summer, while in winter it is rarely more than -10 °C (14 °F) in our region. Therefore, I think that 0W-30 would be better than 0W-20 for summer, because the winters are not so bad, maybe even 5W-30.
@@dejandezman6139 I don't know much about the 1.5L engine, but generally speaking, unless you are tuning the car, 0w-20 is likely fine and just slightly better for fuel economy. Your summer temps aren't high enough for the 0w-30 to be supplementing something your cars cooling couldn't handle (e.g. you are racing the car or redlining it every time between lights). So you have to ask why you think the car needs slightly thicker oil all the time (besides reducing your gas mileage). And 0w-20 will be better for auto start/stop depending on if you typically stop at lights a lot or not during your drives.
Otherwise, I have it chipped at 200 horses, but I don't run it regularly. There's probably nothing missing from 0W-20 if it's also specified for Type R. But as far as I know about oils, 0W-30 should have the same cold start protection as 0W-20 because the front number is the same. All that the person who chipped it advised me was to use 100 octane instead of 95 octane gasoline. A minimum of 95 is prescribed, but it can be more. I did fill up with 100 octane for a while, until I had to fill up at a pump where 100 octane was not available. Since then, I've been refueling with 95 octane, it's cheaper 😁@@mldiy
Hey man. Did my engine oil and oil filter changed today. And putted 5.4L in the car and why the dip stick shows the oil level over fill??? Oil level should be between that two little holes. Also there was 5L old oil from the car I have poured back to the 5L bottle.
Hi Shen. The oil capacity is for sure 5.7 quarts (5.4L) but there's a couple things to consider. If you drained your oil right after shutting it down and put the drain bolt back on right away, there's still a decent amount of oil in the head and block. That oil takes 30 minutes or more to work its way back down to the oil pan. Also, did you start the car after filling the oil so that oil circulated through the oil filter? And did you let the oil settle before checking the dipstick? How much oil that came out from draining is telling too. Either you didn't let it fully drain so you only get 5L out, or you are burning oil--which the k20 engine does have a history of doing (it was notoriously bad in the RSX). Please also keep in mind, in my video, I only fill 5 quarts before cycling the oil and checking the dipstick. I (and many others) do this to ensure we don't overfill on oil. There's always something you can do to verify along the way instead of blindly trusting a guy on the internet. I recommend you check your oil again when the engine is cold to see what your oil level. Best of luck on your future DIYs.
Hi Shen, modern engines are fine with thinner oils because the clearances on the rings and bearings are so much tighter than back in the day. A higher viscosity is just going to make your engine work harder and impact your fuel economy. Unless you're redline all day long in like desert heat, it's likely that your sportier driving is well within spec for 0w-20. That all said, 0w-30 is an acceptable weight based on the manual--but you can check yours just in case I'm wrong. I hope this helps and if so, please consider subscribing. TH-cam now unlocks features for creators at 500 subscribers and I'm almost there! Thanks again. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
The short answer is it's not necessary, but it doesn't hurt especially if you are tracking the car. With direct injected cars, the droplets of oil that end up getting spit into the intake stream from the PCV could potentially build up over time. Before with indirect injection, the fuel would end up cleaning the manifold and valves on the way in, so a little oil blowby didn't matter as much. So the catch can I think is only 2 or 3 oz. It's not that much oil even if it looked that way in the video and it was a thousand miles or so since the last oil change. Most of that oil would get sucked back into the pistons and only some of it would stay in the manifold. Keep in mind that catchcans also don't catch 100% of the oil, so it's just further extending the potential long term problems--if any at all. If you do buy one, click on the link in the description to help support the channel. 👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I know right? It's mostly for emission standards, but newer engines like this gen of the K20 are machined with tighter clearances than the previous gen. One could argue if the oil is too thick you're losing horsepower. And if you're unlucky, an unfriendly dealer may deny a warranty claim if they find out you used something other than 0w-20. You know what else is crazy? A Type R needs 5.7 quarts of oil but a Honda ridgeline only needs 4.5 quarts.
Ja , der blaue Einfüllstutzen ist voll gruselig . Es gibt viel perfektere Lösungen . Z.B. ein Einfüllstutzen , der sich wie der Deckel aufschrauben lässt . So geht nichts daneben .
Danke für den Kommentar. Ich stimme voll und ganz zu, dass der Füller mit langem Hals nicht das richtige Werkzeug für diese Aufgabe war. Ich bin wirklich überrascht, wie flach es unter dem Öldeckel war. Ich habe immer noch keinen Ersatzfüller für den nächsten Ölwechsel besorgt, also vielen Dank für die Erinnerung. Ich werde es mir ansehen. Nochmals vielen Dank fürs Zuschauen! (Dieser Kommentar wurde von Google übersetzt, sodass ich versuchen konnte, in Ihrer Sprache zu antworten.)
How to Brake Bleed the FK8 Honda Civic Type R: th-cam.com/video/nB7qYUIv6X4/w-d-xo.html Your likes and subscribes really help out this channel, thank you!
Just purchased a 17 FK8 with 30k miles and a 110k mile warranty that’ll cover pretty much everything besides rim damage oil changes and brakes. Great video. Gave me confidence on maintaining the car on my own.
Thank you for the comment and congrats on your purchase! This car is really great and I think looks better than the latest model. Feel free to check back in when you start doing your own DIY maintenance.
thank you for showing where to put the jack and jack stands.
You are welcome, thank you for watching and commenting!
Awesome work my man. Perfect filming, perfect instructions. Its clear you have experience.
Comments like yours are extremely validating and motivating. I really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Thank you!
Good video, please don't give up and more repairs or maintenance for Type-R 😊
I appreciate the kind words and I'll see about getting some more Type R content. Thank you as well for subscribing, it really helps me out! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
That car's owner must be like the coolest guy ever.
Look at me!
Thanks for this video!
Awesome video! Can you do front and rear brake pads/rotors on the type R next?
Let me see what I can do! Thanks for watching and for your comments too.
I love the color of the car!❤
Very good video and beautiful car 🥰😍
You are very welcome, thanks so much for watching, commenting and subscribing (and if you didn't, that's okay too). 🙏
Great video 💪🏻
Can you do more videos about general matainance on the type r?
I will, definitely subscribe to catch them. Anything you want to see?
Thanks for this video!
Why I’m I having trouble getting the skid plate back on the flat head turns but only when the skid plate is off.
Try pinching the metal clips the screw goes into together some. Just a guess based on what you said but the screws are pretty short and once the cover is there, it's now not reaching the back of the clip where it fastens. Let me know if that works or share more info and I'll see if I can help more.
Great video, if i do say so myself!
Hi, I have the same generation Civic, but with a 1.5 engine. In the instructions, it only says for the ACEA specification, but not for the API. I need to use the same spec for mine if I ever buy another brand of oil and does it have to be 0W-20? Because in the instructions there is also an alternative of 0W-30 or 5W-30. Would either of these two be better? For now, I'm taking the car to an authorized service center.
Hi, I'm guessing you are in Europe (or at least not in the US) looking at a manual for that region. ACEA is just the EU oil standard while API is US--literally the American Petroleum Institute. The Castrol oil I used in the video meets both API and ACEA standards. As for oil weight, you can use whatever the manual recommends but generally go with the main weight recommendation. The other weights are usually for heavy duty or different weather regions. I hope this helps.
@@mldiy Yes, I am European. I know that ACEA is a European standard and API is an American one. I had a Mazda before and the manual listed both specs and I chose the oil because they matched. In terms of temperatures, it can reach up to 40 °C (104 °F) in summer, while in winter it is rarely more than -10 °C (14 °F) in our region. Therefore, I think that 0W-30 would be better than 0W-20 for summer, because the winters are not so bad, maybe even 5W-30.
@@dejandezman6139 I don't know much about the 1.5L engine, but generally speaking, unless you are tuning the car, 0w-20 is likely fine and just slightly better for fuel economy. Your summer temps aren't high enough for the 0w-30 to be supplementing something your cars cooling couldn't handle (e.g. you are racing the car or redlining it every time between lights). So you have to ask why you think the car needs slightly thicker oil all the time (besides reducing your gas mileage). And 0w-20 will be better for auto start/stop depending on if you typically stop at lights a lot or not during your drives.
Otherwise, I have it chipped at 200 horses, but I don't run it regularly. There's probably nothing missing from 0W-20 if it's also specified for Type R. But as far as I know about oils, 0W-30 should have the same cold start protection as 0W-20 because the front number is the same.
All that the person who chipped it advised me was to use 100 octane instead of 95 octane gasoline. A minimum of 95 is prescribed, but it can be more. I did fill up with 100 octane for a while, until I had to fill up at a pump where 100 octane was not available. Since then, I've been refueling with 95 octane, it's cheaper 😁@@mldiy
Thanks!
You are welcome, I hope the video helped you out. 👍
Hey man. Did my engine oil and oil filter changed today. And putted 5.4L in the car and why the dip stick shows the oil level over fill??? Oil level should be between that two little holes. Also there was 5L old oil from the car I have poured back to the 5L bottle.
Hi Shen. The oil capacity is for sure 5.7 quarts (5.4L) but there's a couple things to consider. If you drained your oil right after shutting it down and put the drain bolt back on right away, there's still a decent amount of oil in the head and block. That oil takes 30 minutes or more to work its way back down to the oil pan. Also, did you start the car after filling the oil so that oil circulated through the oil filter? And did you let the oil settle before checking the dipstick?
How much oil that came out from draining is telling too. Either you didn't let it fully drain so you only get 5L out, or you are burning oil--which the k20 engine does have a history of doing (it was notoriously bad in the RSX).
Please also keep in mind, in my video, I only fill 5 quarts before cycling the oil and checking the dipstick. I (and many others) do this to ensure we don't overfill on oil. There's always something you can do to verify along the way instead of blindly trusting a guy on the internet.
I recommend you check your oil again when the engine is cold to see what your oil level. Best of luck on your future DIYs.
Can we use 0w30 instead 0w20? Because sometimes we drive a bit more aggressively.
Hi Shen, modern engines are fine with thinner oils because the clearances on the rings and bearings are so much tighter than back in the day. A higher viscosity is just going to make your engine work harder and impact your fuel economy. Unless you're redline all day long in like desert heat, it's likely that your sportier driving is well within spec for 0w-20. That all said, 0w-30 is an acceptable weight based on the manual--but you can check yours just in case I'm wrong. I hope this helps and if so, please consider subscribing. TH-cam now unlocks features for creators at 500 subscribers and I'm almost there! Thanks again. www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
@@mldiy thx for the reply and the explanation. Subscribed
Mishimoto oil catch can no longer available 😢
I still see it available from the link in my description: amzn.to/3KKoslv Where are you trying to find it?
Does all type r need the catch can ? That’s alot of oil
The short answer is it's not necessary, but it doesn't hurt especially if you are tracking the car. With direct injected cars, the droplets of oil that end up getting spit into the intake stream from the PCV could potentially build up over time. Before with indirect injection, the fuel would end up cleaning the manifold and valves on the way in, so a little oil blowby didn't matter as much.
So the catch can I think is only 2 or 3 oz. It's not that much oil even if it looked that way in the video and it was a thousand miles or so since the last oil change. Most of that oil would get sucked back into the pistons and only some of it would stay in the manifold. Keep in mind that catchcans also don't catch 100% of the oil, so it's just further extending the potential long term problems--if any at all.
If you do buy one, click on the link in the description to help support the channel. 👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thank man
0w20? This is crazy
I know right? It's mostly for emission standards, but newer engines like this gen of the K20 are machined with tighter clearances than the previous gen. One could argue if the oil is too thick you're losing horsepower. And if you're unlucky, an unfriendly dealer may deny a warranty claim if they find out you used something other than 0w-20. You know what else is crazy? A Type R needs 5.7 quarts of oil but a Honda ridgeline only needs 4.5 quarts.
weak oil for this engine.. and by that I don't mean viscosity
Happy to learn from you if you are willing to share your knowledge. What do you use and do you have different recommendations for track vs daily?
@@mldiyas per manual "sae 0-20". Castrol meets the specs. People go crazy with oil for some reason.
Ja , der blaue Einfüllstutzen ist voll gruselig . Es gibt viel perfektere Lösungen . Z.B. ein Einfüllstutzen , der sich wie der Deckel aufschrauben lässt . So geht nichts daneben .
Danke für den Kommentar. Ich stimme voll und ganz zu, dass der Füller mit langem Hals nicht das richtige Werkzeug für diese Aufgabe war. Ich bin wirklich überrascht, wie flach es unter dem Öldeckel war. Ich habe immer noch keinen Ersatzfüller für den nächsten Ölwechsel besorgt, also vielen Dank für die Erinnerung. Ich werde es mir ansehen. Nochmals vielen Dank fürs Zuschauen! (Dieser Kommentar wurde von Google übersetzt, sodass ich versuchen konnte, in Ihrer Sprache zu antworten.)