@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer. The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps. There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them. The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1. Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak. A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components. Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem. You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference. Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car". There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble. They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery. It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
@@caffeinefix2751it’s far more compliant. Really no need to change to coilovers. If you are on the fence, do the module first then decide. The module is not expensive.
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
12:30 I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it. I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D . But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
Most every car comes with a spring and shock setup though. Almost anyone who adds coilovers to their car is replacing the basic spring and shock setup and its fine.
Hi Ben, many of the oscillation that happen in civic is due to misaligned subframe. with spoon rigid collars, it will reduce/eliminate springing effect from the chassis. currently running stock setup daily in R+ without harshness. it will pair great with the coilovers. congrats!!
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
3:25 One of those tools trashed a good ball joint for me, it was seized in and the pressure managed to bend the threaded section, wouldn't thread back on, and the ball joint was cast into the arm, so an expensive mistake for a cheap tool. I just use a prybar and hammer ever since.
16:31 - it's too low for me. I lower my cars with 2 finger widths, fender to tire Gap. 2 fingers gap is plenty for suspension travel and room for settling.
@GSekong ok, for most cars i modify, 2 finger fender to tire gap, looks lowered, allows the suspension to work properly, i don't have to drive slow over rail road tracks or when getting in and out of driveways. No scraping either. It's a balance of sportiness, comfort and function.
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
The adjustability of the stock suspension is brilliant. Honda did an amazing job of balancing performance with comfort IMO -- I definitely don't find it too stiff. Also seems like sacrilege to replace something Honda spent thousands of hours and probably millions developing.
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
I put a new intake on my ‘18 SI I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor and got every dash light too. Even for unrelated stuff like traction control parking brake etc. gotta love modern Honda computers
Just change the ADM module to the Integra S and save a ton of money. Plug and play and less than $300. Totally different car. No more hopping on track bumps. I changed it at 200 miles as I hated it. Just try it. Night and day. The car has no idea it’s in there other than suspension softer. All modes work as they should. No codes. I had a factory software fix that requires hot then cold loads. Car didn’t care. It is so good with the S module it’s hard to explain. Just change it and be done with it.
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
Ben, Bud, you could've just swapped the CTR suspension module to an ITS module and got the ITS' softer suspension on your ctr-- provided you didn't already do this and I'm behind on this build.
Nah, they didn't change the ADS module. One of their main sponsors is Fortune Auto and why that's the only coilovers they put in their cars. I'm not convinced though going to a true coilover in the rear is the best idea especially seeing their still messing with the top hat design to spread even more load so it doesn't punch out the body. And part of it is they wanted to lower the car anyway.
@@Vermonstered That's fair, I know they're pals with Fortune Auto-- who are a great coilover company-- so that makes sense. Still wish they'd make coils for my car though. :T
@@thegirthquake8574 FA is good in the sense you can rebuild them and always get support but they use off the self Chineseium parts. Most of the European suspension companies products will likely be better in terms of damping geared toward ride quality if available. Otherwise a simple Koni yellow with their adjustable spring collars might have enough height and damping adjustment for you with a quality strut.
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
@ 15:02 Did you mean to say rotating the tires side to side or did you rotate them straight front to back? If you are rotating them side to side and correcting the camber that would help correct the tread wear on those tires. But if you rotated them front to back and are adding camber to the rear then that would make those tires wear out even more on the inner side.
I wonder how my driving compares to yours. I've tracked my FL5 MANY times and never had an overheating issue. And mine's stock. Outside of track pads, brake fluid, and track wheels, it's stock
I must say I am very impressed with this video thank you..I plan on getting one of these and lots of info I’m glad I seen and things you did as well as parts so thank you..very entertaining keep it up and I wish you continued success in your videos and channel as you have gained another sub 🙌🏽💪🏽🙏🏽
So what was the fix for all the lights? Re programming the key? Ride height is too low. For a more street car, did you look into the Integra Type S suspension module? Obviously the coil overs are better for track driving...
Probably in the minority here but the blue Advans look fantastic. Might be my boomer early to mid-aughts bias, but when the Magnesium TE/CE’s came out everyone freaked tf out, myself included. Either way, car looks fantastic! Was skeptical at first since it’s effectively the best factory-tuned FWD car of all time, but you guys did in fact improve it lol.
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
Pretty sure its the oil temp thats the main problem on the fl5? Probably coolant too but i remember seeing multiple nurburgring laps of them hitting 150c oil temp within a lap
Installing coilovers for a softer ride... what a world we live in...
He's getting soft.
@@ellwoodwolf Nah, the +R mode is Honda engineers looking for that slight better lap time without getting new parts. They cranked up the damping to act like artificial springs as they're the same springs from the FK8. The excessive damping slows down the body roll in a turn so it's good for quick transitions, but packs up the damper in hits or long sweepers. Wish Honda just spent the extra $250 per car and just changed the spring to match what they're trying to do but the car was already expensive already. But as a Type R solution the Type S Integra uses the exact same hardware but is tuned differently, and can swap the suspension control module.
I mean when you have professional drivers saying the suspension setup in +R mode is horrible, why wouldn’t you fix the problem?
^
@@ellwoodwolf honestly hard suspension doesn't mean fast just like that. it needs to be soft enough to absorb the unevenness of the ground and hard enough to not give out under the loads when turning/breaking and accelerating, and translate the weight to the tires and utalize more of the available grip. having stiff suspension only impresses people who don't know anything about suspension.
As a FK8 owner, I heavily discourage you to get a FK8/FL5 to be your daily + weekend racer.
The cooling issues Ben talked about, are not fixed by simple solutions like a different radiator. Be prepared to sink over $5,000 in mods and time into the platform, just to be able to go a few more laps.
There are many owners, who get real with the issue and tell you not to get one, if you want to race them.
The overheating issues are not due to a small radiator or something like that- the engine bays are simply too cramped for the turbocharged K20C1.
Mind you, it's pushing 320+ HP from a 2 liter, so it's the turbo doing the heavy lifting. If you put that hot turbo AND CAT UNDER the intake charge pipes and IN BETWEEN the engine and the heat exchangers, you WILL get heat soak.
A bigger radiator will only worsen this issue, because now you decreased the airflow to the engine bay to cool other components.
Like I said, it's not an easy "slap some mods and call it a day" problem. This is a "this platform is silly" kind of problem.
You need at least a engine hood with major cooling vents, at least one external oil cooler (2 is better...) another front mask with bigger opening for airflow, wrap on the intake charge pipe (no turbo or exhaust blanket- you need the airflow to cool it) and CAT delete to make a real difference.
Guys, I'm not hating on the Type R- it is the best (stock) FWD sports car for the street. When I got mine, I was laughing in joy, all the way back home, carving through the country roads. But it is not for the track- as is. I don't consider a car, that can only do 5 laps, before it goes into limp mode a "track car".
There are many cars, that you can slap a bigger radiator, oil cooler on and prop the hood in the rear and have fun all day. This ain't it.
Interesting
What kind of air temps are you running in? I just did three sessions of 25’ each at a Pitt Race in a pretty stock FL5, just water wetter in the coolant. Never saw water temp over 195. But it was 60°F out…
You said what I was having in mind. It's not a radiator issue, it's a fight against physics issue.
Damnn i guess i'll stick to my s2k
What are some other "cheap" sports cars that don't fundamentally have cooling issues?
I wonder how much cheaper modern cars would be if they only had the essential computers to make the car run.
Aka the regulators stayed out of it
It's consumers who did this. Slide my seat with effort? no motor. Raise my seat with effort? no motor. Turn on my own lights? No computer. Turn on my own wipers? No computer. Flip my own rear view mirror? No computer. Stay iny own lane ? No computer park my car by paying attention? No computer..... See where I'm going with this ...
The more and more EPA and safety regulations that are required, the more modules will be needed. And as the last person said as well, the more comfort functions that are wanted by consumers, the more engineers will have to add more modules to have everything communicate with each other because if you live your seat the airbag modules will have to know how much to deploy.
from an engineering perspective, compute power has gotten so insane now that it's actually quite difficult to implement only essentials. its way easier and cheaper to justify to the consumer rather than make a bespoke chip + board setup.
@@ellwoodwolf i agree with you but some things are def regulations. mostly for safety like all the airbags, driving aids, sos and stuff like that. its just annoying for someone like us who has to fix systems even if we don't use these systems like the abs wich in some cases people remove.
tfw the dash says "see your dealer" but you own a racecar and can't afford drugs
😂
A CTR is not a race car.
there isnt a message that says see your dealer. a car needing repairs isnt the cause for someone needing drugs. dumbass post
poop shit huyndai bull shit ads shit junk as hole huyndai shit
The R stands for racing? Why is it not?
It's always incredible to me that a track focused car from the factory that a host of engineers designed still has parts on it that can be made better. But then I remember how much the automotive industry is focused on cost more than it is prefromance a lot of times. Super cool to see the ways these cars can be made better!
Of course they haven’t put the absolute best you can buy on as OEM equipment, no one would pay the 10s of thousands more the car would cost if Honda put the best they could on it. The current price is already a bit of a joke for a front wheel drive Honda.
I mean people still find ways to make $250k porsches faster on track than factory- see Manthey Performance
Every vehicle has a compromise of some sort. It could come with all aluminum suspension components or have carbon hatch, roof, hood and such but the price would push this over 6 figures.
That can be said for many factory track focused cars. Porsche GT3RS comes to mind. Lots of aftermarket damper kits for that car.
Well then pony up and get something better from the factory. No best of the best is gonna be 50 grand. And of course these companies focus more on cost, so they can pay their employees and manufacturing. People want "living wages" after all right? Do you know why I know this? Cuz I worked for a living bro.
Bens got a new daily, you know what that means fellas - It'll be on Cars & Bids next week. 🤣
Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup
Lets be real. Bens real daily is the F150 haha 😂
"half a 32nd" makes my eu brain hurt
He should have read it as 64ths at that point
I was just thinking, TF is a half a 32nd
Americans use anything but the metric system
Same, I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done
The imperial system is stupid
I love that Cam was named Camera from birth its like he was born to do this job
everyone is saying battery, yes after a replacement you will get the safety lights but that will go away with driving around for literally 30s to a minute or letting your car sit outside in the open for a minute as well, if the battery replacement doesn’t get rid of the lights, check the CAMERA on the windshield, usually a faulty camera will set those lights on the dash, i work at ACURA, they’re all the same at end of the day
17:36 - The poor guy needed goddamn iHDS to fix this issue. For the uninitiated, that's Honda's factory scan tool software. This is the stuff that scares me about modern cars because most independent shops are not going to go through that level of trouble.
They will send you to the dealer, and I wouldn't blame them either. It means you're likely at the mercy of your local dealer if your car is plagued with warning lights. Hell, just changing the 12V battery on a 2024 Accord triggered a ridiculous amount of warning lights that I had to clear with iHDS.
This ^ currently a Honda technician
I wonder how deep he had to go to fix the issue. If it was a true wiring or broken sensor issue or if it just was an incorrectly calibrated steering angle. Since on my $110 Launch scanner, I accidently reset the VSA steering calibration and basically steering, hill assist brake, cruise control, steering assist, ABS, TPMS and a few other faults came up. 😂 Reset the steering angle and it cleared itself but I was shocked at how many errors it pulled.
We went to our local Honda dealership 3 times and they couldn’t figure it out. David is the real MVP here!
@@GearsandGasolineI might’ve skipped over it but what were the codes?
@GearsandGasoline should have brought it to my shop, my job is mainly to fix issues like these. We get customers from other hondas bringing them to us cause theirs can't figure it out
The Shift Knob hoodie is adorable
Looks like a beer koozie to me
I had one in Vegas on my FK8 lol.. It was a Deadpool one from amazon lol
Shift knob hoodies are great. Not only do you get a chill homie with you at all times, but when it's hot, your knob is not
This car gives flashbacks to the Sti.
Please don’t cut the roof off 🥺
It's crazy how good this turned out!
23:25 As a chiropractor I'll say your technique is flawless!
Replace the Battery in my 2020 Honda Accord 1.5T. Now a bunch lights on dash! The battery!
Yep. My Mk 7R requires a reset in the computer, so it adjusts charging current to match the new battery.
It's also necessary to reprogram the battery manufacturer and type (AGM, flooded cell, etc), and the cranking amps.
Toyotas register the battery automatically. It's not hard for a company to do that but Honda is quickly becoming dealer only maintenance
You need a battery memory saver for new cars that's what I use on all the new vehicles when changing out the battery.
Did you register the battery replacement? Some cars have ibs (intelligent battery sensors) on them and if you don't reset it it can sometimes throw codes or over charge the battery. So I'd check that if it's not that then just check the terminals make sure they're tight and clean of corrosion.
The Type S damping module does wonders for ride quality especially in R+ mode.
I actually use +R mode now. Even around town.
Is it a drastic difference like a coil over?
@@caffeinefix2751 I would say so. It's more compliant and bearable around town with the Type S module.
@@caffeinefix2751it’s far more compliant. Really no need to change to coilovers. If you are on the fence, do the module first then decide. The module is not expensive.
New Gears and Gasoline….means instant SMILE to my face.
I still think bronzed finish wheels would be super sick on a white Type R.
Mark feels like the kid going back and forth between his divorced parents houses each weekend
I audibly laughed while reading this. Thank you.
Looks awesome, man. Lowered, blue wheels, white...basically how I'd do it. Love it!
I still like the blue wheels
make it honda blue instead but if they just do a shade of grey it will not look as good.
Changing to generic greys will make it look so NPC
Nope. Matte bronze is the way to go for white cars.
@@DreamDestinations123 yeah that's fine, probably what I will do with my white car
Blue wheels is the furthest thing from cool
"I drove it through hurricaine Helene" That was unecessarily tough.
If you are going through the trouble to corner balance, you should do it with the driver sitting in the car (or use a weight ballast) so the cross weights are even with you in it. Otherwise, nice job!
Let’s go!!! Saturday morning cartoons!
Awesome video as always Mark and Ben T.
Still rocking my 05 Evo VIII MR with only 278,000 miles
Niiice 👍👍
Rocking my 03 Evo 8 with 98k miles
Rocking my 08 Evo X with 29k miles
Evo 7, 5RS and 9 GT Wagon here 😂 And yes I have a problem 😂😂
Original engine with that 278K? That’s impressive!
I had this glut of warnings happen on my 2017 Type R after it got incorrectly towed with 2 wheels down and it took about 50 miles of driving it before it learned nothing was wrong and the warnings dropped off. Gotta love new cars.
The “annoying offset bolts” is the superior way to adjust camber. Reason is that it maintains the same length of the arms on both sides of the car. If you only adjust those turn buckles, it will make the arms different lengths each side, which can lead to unpredictable differences in left vs right turn handling properties. Use the turn buckles for the “gross” adjustment, to get it in the ballpark of where you need the camber. But make sure they’re the same length on both sides. Then use the factory eccentric bolts to dial it in and equalize the camber on both sides of the car.
I highly recommend the Acuity rad hoses, it's a reverse flow to help with cooling! Also the coolant will crack so replace it ASAP!
“We got 14 computers in this car”
-laughs in Volkswagen.
Dude I had a 1993 Alfa 164, I swear to god that think had a control module for the 6 cigarette lighters in it. 6 lighters and ashtrays in a car that seats 5, gotta love the Italians.
@@enemyspotted2467 I drive an ‘18 Skoda superb and it’s the first euro I’ve had in years, the amount of modules these things have is insane.
Make sure the the rear coilover contact points can support the load. Otherwise you’ll be dealing with some irreversible damage.
Seems so far there's AST/Moton and Fortune Auto being the only ones going to a full coilover instead of the stock divorced setup in the rear. Hopefully they've done their testing but not too hopeful if Fortune Auto is selling the version 2 hat but are on version 3 of their top hat design likely due to a failure. Wonder what kind of spring rates they did install.
This. I would change to the latter design. It might work just fine but not worth the risk 😊
Those opening shots reminded me of the fun I had with my MK 4 Golf VR5 driving it thorough the hills of Baden Württemberg
I just got my 25' CTR and It has been the dream coming from a MKV Supra. I'm excited for this build as I build mine.
you sold your supra?
Did you consider the integra Type S suspension control module? Ive heard it's pretty much plug and play, and really softens it up
Why not just use individual mode? +R everything except suspension, keep that in sport or comfort
Type S sport = Type R comfort
@@a124as that would be a better compromise to me than spending $2k on coilvers that are always softer than comfort.
Works great. It’s an inexpensive mod that fixes all the issues. No sense spending on coilovers
12:30
I just noticed you're using zipties. If you ever plan on taking this car to the track, replace them with hose clamps. First hand experience, too much heat will expand those zip ties and the module will become loose and eventually fall out.
That,
But even if that doesn't happen, They do get harder over time until they eventually just fall apart.
That would also suck.
Checking the tread wear, then talking in "half of 32nds..." what? My brain being from other part of the world cannot overcome it.
I paused at that moment to go and see if somebody else commented it :D .
But I enjoy the video anyway, nicely done! Thanks for the content!
The Integra Type S module for the dampers is one of the popular ways to 'fix' the stuff ride in the type r.
Works like a charm!
I was wondering why this wasn't done first!
@@AirMaximus1 💯 easy peezy
How effective is it vs coil overs?
@@caffeinefix2751it’s really good.
I am always hesitant using coilovers on cars with spring and shock setup because a lot of the times, the shock mounting points are not reinforced enough to take the weight of the vehicle.
especially, on japanese cars
Most every car comes with a spring and shock setup though. Almost anyone who adds coilovers to their car is replacing the basic spring and shock setup and its fine.
@ yes they do however if you are not using factory mounting points designed for the setup, you can damage the chassis.
Hi Ben, many of the oscillation that happen in civic is due to misaligned subframe. with spoon rigid collars, it will reduce/eliminate springing effect from the chassis. currently running stock setup daily in R+ without harshness. it will pair great with the coilovers. congrats!!
I have the Sport 02s on my Civic Si, they are the bomb.
Also, my car is running on TSP tune. Really enjoy it.
This time of the year is the best time of the year for viewers. We get to see companies pushing “no budget” builds…builds that 99.9% of people will never be able to achieve…to get ready to showcase at SEMA.
@10:07 Raising the car w/ the trunk or hood still up gives me the EBBIJEEBIES!!!
TwoStepPerformance 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Corey is the man!
Honda couldn't ask for a better fanboy. This man makes me a fan.
This is why I'm not buying new cars anymore. Just bought something from 2002 and that's more up my alley.
10:32 Source Engine jumpscare, my favourite unit conversion.
22:43 and the AV/install jumpscare
So chill, love the energy here!
BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT BOT
oh hi Mark
looks so good.... FL5 want stronger than ever before - 100% agreed dark grey/gunmetal wheels vs. the blue. It's coming along nicely. Great work guys! Enjoying the series
I always use a really long bar positioned under the subframe and over the lower arm to pull the balljoint lose. Works way safer and easier than any balljoint tool.
3:25 One of those tools trashed a good ball joint for me, it was seized in and the pressure managed to bend the threaded section, wouldn't thread back on, and the ball joint was cast into the arm, so an expensive mistake for a cheap tool.
I just use a prybar and hammer ever since.
Holy crap you don’t have to gut the hatch area to remove the rears? Sweet.
16:31 - it's too low for me. I lower my cars with 2 finger widths, fender to tire Gap. 2 fingers gap is plenty for suspension travel and room for settling.
2 fingers is about stock height
@GSekong i doubt it.
@@PANTYEATR1 I have one and lowered it last week, went from 2 fingers to 1 finger height with eibach pro kit springs
@GSekong ok, for most cars i modify, 2 finger fender to tire gap, looks lowered, allows the suspension to work properly, i don't have to drive slow over rail road tracks or when getting in and out of driveways. No scraping either. It's a balance of sportiness, comfort and function.
My (personal) opinion on ride height is simple: if you can't get your lift arms under the car, it's too low. If you can barely squeak it under by grabbing the fender and giving it some help, it's the perfect height.
At 18:34 “Steal Ben’s K-Series” 😂😂
Yup when replacing the srs unit, immobilizer or vsa module on a new honda you have to the key write or else you’ll get all those lights
Literally just met you guys in the Walmart parking lot in Lenoir City, TN. Nice to meet you guys and talk shop for a minute!! Definitely gained a new viewer/subscriber!!
The adjustability of the stock suspension is brilliant. Honda did an amazing job of balancing performance with comfort IMO -- I definitely don't find it too stiff. Also seems like sacrilege to replace something Honda spent thousands of hours and probably millions developing.
10:33 giving the swaybar measurements in Hammer Units is such a video game nerd joke. I love it.
How can I get my hands on those wiring diagrams you have? Minute 9:06
Wondering that too
😂 “beep beep beep” dead as fuck loved that he torqued to spec!! The Ben’s crack me up. Don’t forget the “Ugg a dugga” when putting the wheels back on! I love this channel keep up the great entertainment boys.
Did you guys consider trying the Integra Type-S damper control module? I swapped one into my own FL5 TypeR and it made the car slightly softer for street driving. It was inexpensive and easy to swap in.
I put a new intake on my ‘18 SI I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor and got every dash light too. Even for unrelated stuff like traction control parking brake etc. gotta love modern Honda computers
I know you had doubts on the wheel color but it's spot on in my opinion
Gun metal grey for the mags!! I love watching your videos guys! Keep it up! More power to you!
Just change the ADM module to the Integra S and save a ton of money. Plug and play and less than $300. Totally different car. No more hopping on track bumps. I changed it at 200 miles as I hated it. Just try it. Night and day. The car has no idea it’s in there other than suspension softer. All modes work as they should. No codes. I had a factory software fix that requires hot then cold loads. Car didn’t care. It is so good with the S module it’s hard to explain. Just change it and be done with it.
While doing the radiator you should have put in Acuity reverse flow coolant hoses and a low temp thermostat as well xd
I laughed out loud at the cut to Jackie and Alex hammering on the control arm, hahaha.
I like the blue wheels tho
Dude, same. Except for me, I have the Veloster N. Shit rides harsh. Other owners have said it rides fine but I think that's just cope. Upgraded to KW V3s and I couldn't believe how much better they are along with a significantly better handling once you dial in everything else from alignment and tire pressures to the compression and rebound.
I had the same issue with my civic with every light turning on the dash and I just hard reset the system and have had no issues. Common issue to have every light go on. Sometimes a Google search can save u lots of time.
From just seeing the screen of the iHDS screen, VSA modulator had to be written into the sysyem
Yep! ECU key rewrite for the new SRS unit. Honda wanted to replace the VSA.
Im pretty sure Acuity makes parts to reverse flow of the coolant which helps with temps as well.
I had an SVX where they drilled a hole in the wheel well from the factory for you to change the back spark plug
Ben, Bud, you could've just swapped the CTR suspension module to an ITS module and got the ITS' softer suspension on your ctr-- provided you didn't already do this and I'm behind on this build.
Nah, they didn't change the ADS module. One of their main sponsors is Fortune Auto and why that's the only coilovers they put in their cars. I'm not convinced though going to a true coilover in the rear is the best idea especially seeing their still messing with the top hat design to spread even more load so it doesn't punch out the body. And part of it is they wanted to lower the car anyway.
@@Vermonstered That's fair, I know they're pals with Fortune Auto-- who are a great coilover company-- so that makes sense. Still wish they'd make coils for my car though. :T
@@thegirthquake8574 FA is good in the sense you can rebuild them and always get support but they use off the self Chineseium parts. Most of the European suspension companies products will likely be better in terms of damping geared toward ride quality if available. Otherwise a simple Koni yellow with their adjustable spring collars might have enough height and damping adjustment for you with a quality strut.
The only thing I look forward to every week is your videos❤
Single radiator on a car is a no-no. Upgrade with a dual radiator fan system asap, helps with cooling in car jams and on highspeed or high pressure temperatures on the car...
@ 15:02 Did you mean to say rotating the tires side to side or did you rotate them straight front to back? If you are rotating them side to side and correcting the camber that would help correct the tread wear on those tires. But if you rotated them front to back and are adding camber to the rear then that would make those tires wear out even more on the inner side.
You made that washing montage look like a music video, love it.
A well made radiator will definitely help with the overheating issues. Dual oil coolers will completely fix any overheating at the track.
You guys do realize this is a 25:40 commercial right?
Are you going to pay them for this content?
German engineers would have just been like “nein, you must drop the tank to remove that bolt! There juz is no other way!”
I am looking forward to Mark taking back his K-series engine. 😂
Hey Ben, any feedback on topmount noise in the cabin with the fortune autos?
Some Spoon SW388 Wheels would look epic on this
@12:12 that's why I love Honda. I can't remember how many times I had to fight with Ford's engineering when I worked on them.
Have you guys figured out the warning lights issue? I'm having the same problem and honda techs are lost.
I wonder how my driving compares to yours. I've tracked my FL5 MANY times and never had an overheating issue. And mine's stock. Outside of track pads, brake fluid, and track wheels, it's stock
to other owners, if u wanna stay oem; get front camber bolts, switch ur ADS module to the type-s ones. world of difference.
Front camber bolts don't exist for this car. Cambered ball joints (more camber) or camber top hats ( some more than factory) are the only way.
I must say I am very impressed with this video thank you..I plan on getting one of these and lots of info I’m glad I seen and things you did as well as parts so thank you..very entertaining keep it up and I wish you continued success in your videos and channel as you have gained another sub 🙌🏽💪🏽🙏🏽
If you’re looking for a softer ride, why then go to Lower arms with heim joints which will most definitely increase NVH??
So what was the fix for all the lights? Re programming the key? Ride height is too low. For a more street car, did you look into the Integra Type S suspension module? Obviously the coil overs are better for track driving...
Probably in the minority here but the blue Advans look fantastic. Might be my boomer early to mid-aughts bias, but when the Magnesium TE/CE’s came out everyone freaked tf out, myself included. Either way, car looks fantastic! Was skeptical at first since it’s effectively the best factory-tuned FWD car of all time, but you guys did in fact improve it lol.
I would have gone with an adjustable KW V3 suspension which also retains the divorce setup at the rear. That way you can get a softer ride for the street and a firmer ride at the track with just dialing some clicks for bump and rebound. And you can also alter the ride height of course. If you like it a bit more hardcore there is also a "Clubsport" version of this suspension.
@@Fastvoice they're sponsored by Fortune Auto
How did the rear anti sway bar feel? Dose carve corners better?? Very cool car.
You always need to recalibrate your sensors when rebuilding a newer vehicle even if the front bumper comes off, just for something small, needs recalibration.
That smol hoodie was cute!
Pretty sure its the oil temp thats the main problem on the fl5? Probably coolant too but i remember seeing multiple nurburgring laps of them hitting 150c oil temp within a lap
Damnit give me those wheels! Blue looks awesome!
Noo 😩 the blue wheels look so good