great job , i purchased this plane off someone else on eBay and had a bad experience assembling it so now Im going to get a 3d printer and make my own piper cub , then the zero ,i purchased the files off 3dlabprint , your video answered a lot of my questions thank you
Hi Troy, Great video! can't wait for your next video, lately i have been watching this one over and over, I printed the shark a few months ago, it looks great, hanging on my ceiling as a static model, I am a beginner RC pilot, so I thought it best just to leave it hanging...pun, and it was printed with regular PLA, so flight speed would have been above my level anyway, the reason why I bought a 3d printer in the first place, was to print RC planes, I have 5 static models currently, and think I am ready for a flying model, so I am printing a 50% scale of the cup now, using blue filament, actually looks good, but still not the correct color, but anyway, wil be on a full go next week, ordering every part to make my first flying 3D printed RC plane, thank you Troy, and yes, it will crash at least 3 times!🤣😆 But that is what this hobby is al about, cheers.
@@TroyMcMillan it's okay man, I'm glad to see that there's no "and crash" in the video title. Good thing that you waited a bit, but still I could hear the wind blow in the camera mic. Do you enjoy building the planes or flying them more? I know that it always hurts to crash any of the build but you're really nice pilot when you managed to get the plane in the air and then safely land on water. Great job, love the vid editing too.
@@LordMarinade I definitely prefer the building and tinkering aspect of this hobby. It is kind of both though because it is really satisfying to see it fly well after spending so much time building it! Crashes are a part of the hobby and I always learn a lot from them, but it is soo nice when you can bring it back home in one piece 😂 And I appreciate the feedback on the editing! Thank you!
I printed one as well, it came out really nice. It was great of 3DLabprint to make this a free download. I printed mine in Polymaker Lightweight PLA on my Creality Ender 5 printer and it was an easy print.
What was the weight like for your print? I'm printing one out of Polymaker LW PLA right now and my fuselage came out at 117g, almost as much as the PLA version in this video.
Nice build and flights, welcome to float flying! I have about a 2-acre pond on my property that I prefer to fly from, float planes are always on my list. Super glad to see this Piper out there, and free! I've purchased a few from 3D Lab thus far and have been very happy with them. Currently building the AICHI M6A SEIRAN/NANZAN from them with floats. Love your videos, and it's nice to see someone with the same hobby. Yellow PLA ordered :)
Its a little funny that I don't think 3D Lab Print was ready for the response from your video. They must be happy at the sametime with all the traffic you brought them.
Yeah, so I looked at this print; then I found this video. I'm pretty familiar with RC helicopter builds and wanted this to be my 1st airplane. You're video and tutorial showed me everything I needed to know! Just FYI, some of the critical details were blipped over by the 'keep with the music beat' pace of the video. It wasn't missed by me, but I'm sure a few are asking WTH just happened between build segments 🥸 Thank you so much! It looks like the perfect thing to practice with!
Instead of cutting the engine shaft, you can uclip it on the other side and smack it couple of times with hammer and it goes through (comes out on other side). That way if you later need the normal shaft, you can re-use the engine.
Strangely enough, that little thing added under the rudder the help steering in water is called a... wait, what is it... ah, a rudder:) Ah, like an airport is a port for ships/vessels/craft that fly;). As you know, mankind knew how to travel on water long before we could fly and there was a pretty extensive vocab that was right there for the taking for the flying folks.
that little part added to the tail isn't a traditional part on a full scale float plane. 3DLabPrint designed that to make the plane steerable in the water, but also to save weight by not adding an extra servo to the floats. It worked really well. it makes me think about 3D printed boats!
@@TroyMcMillan sure. But still a rudder. But you did call it that later on;-). It’s all good - I love your work. As for boats, it’s a good challenge for you but please do me a favor and research by checking out the printed sailboats like RG65 and IOMs. People have figured out the print settings for how to make waterproof hulls straight off the printer already. Still, I see tons of people doing their own boats and having to spend a lot of effort making them watertight. Not saying you should build a sailboat but do look into these print settings. As far as I remember, it’s about printing hot with no or few retractions and making sure your walls don’t have gaps. All stuff you’ll pick up faster than most:-). And thanks for replying!
@@AntiVaganza Haha, no you are totally right. 😉Thank you, I appreciate it. I have seen that! That would definitely be the goal to print it with it being watertight. With a boat it could stand to be printed out heavier with the extra material that would take too. A cool project for the future.
Yes, the weight penalty matters a whole lot less there. Good luck with it - I actually think you will be helping a lot of people with that project as it seems boats are something a lot of people want to tinker with. But not many think they can print them watertight so they don't look into it and instead have to deal with coating the hull afterwards. Once again, thanks for taking your time to reply. Really appreciate it!
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
So cool! I got a Bambu P1P for Chriistmas and I just recently stumbled onto 3D Labs planes. After sifting through everything, I chose the Piper Cub as my first project. You definitely paved the way with this video! Excellent work. If mine turned out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.
Thanks!! Have struggled with LWPLA printing, but really want to finish a plane. Downloaded this and Prusa slicer. Fuse printed beautifully in ColorFabb LWPLA! Wing just started. Thanks for the Prusa hint! Seems to be the ticket for me.
did you use the original prusa printer setup or did u go for the printer setup in the 3mf file? I haven't started printing yet, but i'm thinking go for the fillament and print settings in the 3mf file but use the prusa printer settings.
@@andreasaure6420 I used the Prusa slicer, and the 3mf files. I used 100% whatever settings came with the 3mf file - I didn't change a thing. I didn't even change to a Ender 3 in the settings - just loaded the file, sliced, saved to the card, and printed
@@scottiniowa1 ok i didnt use the 3mf files i used the gcodes :) but i think i should maybe do some tweaking since i use esun material insted of colourfabb
I'm in the process of of printing and assembling the Piper. Very, very impressed with the model. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into its design so as to make it both strong and easy to assemble. It appears to be much more robust than the Eclipson models.
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
I built this using the eSUN LW PLA and the printing of the files was easy using the prepared gcode or the 3mf files on a Prusa i3Mk3S. However a couple of words of warning - don't try to save time by printing more than one item at a time (filling the build plate). The filament oozes when travelling (even with 10mm retraction), so everything ends up covered in strands of plastic. They scrape off, but it's a pain to do. And secondly, I can't find any sign-writing vinyl that sticks to the LW PLA.
Yes, I agree, to get the best quality print one part at a time. For the vinyl, I use 3M high stick material that is meant for textured walls. It sticks so well, some have lasted for years now.
On Printing with regular PLA I have so much issues in all Wing parts. The brodges which start at layer 78 hangs always, no matter which setting. Bridging settings doesn't have any effect to it. How you did that? Or did you have same issues in the Wing parts? Thanks for tipps and tricks!
Safety notes: Test motor operation without a prop. For most radio systems: Ensure low throttle and cut off stop the motor Then re-bind to reset the "failsafe" for loss of signal. This will prevent motor start if you plug the airplane battery in before turning on the radio. Too many accidents from not ensuring failsafe settings include motor off. Most ESCs now use the default High/low of Spektrum/JR Some use Futaba's High/Low which exactly the opposite.
I still have some ColorFabbs LW-PLA to use up before purchasing the Polylight and wondered what, if any, the difference is and if so what settings I may need to change.
How do you print off the decal sheet? I cant seem to find anything compatible with my laser printer. Did you print it using the Actual size setting? what size is your label sheet?
Hi, nice job!!! did you have any problems with unsupported areas of the nose? I am trying to print with esun white lw PLA but using 3d lab print settings in prusa slicer I found that bridged areas on outside skin near the tip of the nose come out really ugly!
Downloaded the 3D print files and attempting to print in Cura. Matched the files settings correctly but a base is printed on to each part. Any ideas how to omit this? Other than this, the parts print perfectly. I am talking about a setting in the printer tool, (brim / skirt etc.) set to none. It's a shame the website does not provide STL file format files.
Thank you!! I get them printed from a local print shop. Ask for them to be printed on 3M High Stick material, like material that is used for textured walls
Troy, currently printing this Cub, but I'm having trouble sourcing some steel pushrods for the elevator/rudder. Where do you suggest getting some 1mm steel rods that are long enough to connect? Thank you!!!
Lw pla planes are great if you already know how to fly. No so good for newbies that will crash a lot learning. I Built and rebuilt 3dlabprint’s cub at least 3 times trying to learn how to fly until i finally put it aside and designed and built a foam plane that could withstand all the crashing I went through learning. The point I am making is that its not about how repairable 3d printed planes are ( and they are quite repairable) its about how durable they are. A lw pla plane is quite fragile. One small mishap, and you’re done flying for the day. With foam, you may crash and the plane is only just a bit dented, or easily hot glued back together in the field.
I totally agree with ur comment. I'm mid build with this first 3d printed one but have been flying foamies for a few years. Kind of know what I will expect but at this point it's an itch I want to scratch. Foamies are so much quicker to get back up with when a crash happens.
@stevetomassetti4420 I have a plane that's just like that but it's a foamie with a janky nose but still flies with a little E6000. Thx for ur response!
I have been waiting for this video since I saw you were working on it. What prop adapter are you using? I don't see it in the parts list. Do you need to cut off the original shaft to use this motor?
When I printed the nose section of the fuselage it came out different from the rest of the fuselage. There were structure supports inside and had a filled in bottom where the parts need to be connected. How do I fix this I am using the same slicer.
I love this vid. Great job & thx for the help/demonstration. When printing the wings, how do you get good/solid ribs to print when they are essentially spanning the print walls/wing skin? All off my ribs are sagging because theres nothing to keep them flat during the print. Help please!
I seen the amount of super glue you used on the servo's when putting them in, would it not be better to use just a bit on the edge of the servo in case something should happen to the servo and it needs removal to be replaced?
Hello Troy, what camera do you use for the fpv at this place on the video 12:00? I would like to print this plane but I have to make my adjustments first.
I use a local decal shop to print them. Make sure you ask for 3M High Stick material, like material that sticks on textured walls. I have planes that have had this material of decal on them and they have lasted for years!
Hi Troy, i need your advice i can buy a Spektrum dx6g2 or would i buy a new NX8? I'm a bit confused, i'm new to the hobby and have to learn everything in rc flying planes .Grtz Jozua
How much LW filament is required for the complete plain, and which brand of filament do you use , also what glue do you use for joining parts together?
Hi...great channel. Its been a long time since I've been in this hobby and am thinking about getting back into it. What would you suggest for a printer. I have -0- experience with 3D printing but this seems to be a lot of fun. Any other suggestions would be great...perhaps a video for people thinking about getting into this. Thanks in advance!
Great build Troy! I'm printing mine right now and I am wondering what material have you used for gear legs and float holders? Is it their yellow PolyAir?
@TroyMcMillan Im about to build this, build sheet shows push rod ends? I dont see them on the video anywhere, do you use these on this piper build ? Also i see lead weight? Where did you put lead weight at on this build if so? I have a bambu a1, will the gcodes need tweaked for Lwpla ? Thanks for your help in advance!
@@pascalwatteel2095 Oh sure! I get them printed out at a local print shop. It took a lot of testing different materials out but the best one I found is "3M High Stick" material. I would call around and really try to find that, but my shop said that material is normally used to adhere decals to textured walls. I send the vector files to them, and they print them out and use a plotter to cut the shapes out. That will save you a lot of time and hassle if your shop can do that too
I owned and flew 2 full size Luscombe airplanes - an 8A and an 8E. If you ever think of making a Luscombe with the same technique, that would be awesome! Great job Troy! Love the build and video! What camera(s) are you using from the plane?
Thank you for bringing us this great model!
Thank you! It was such a fun build. Hope you enjoyed it! 😊
Ty for sharing this, I am printing one of these to learn how to fly RC.!
This float addition is cool!
Its my favorite part!!
这是我见过装得最好的视频！
Everything fits so nice
Your results may vary. Mine printed like junk. So much that I’ve given up on LW-PLA and airplanes.
great job , i purchased this plane off someone else on eBay and had a bad experience assembling it so now Im going to get a 3d printer and make my own piper cub , then the zero ,i purchased the files off 3dlabprint , your video answered a lot of my questions thank you
What a fun and amazing build. Very cool to see flying on floats, with all the scale details!
This plane turned out great, and I'm so impressed it flies so well too!
Hi Troy, Great video! can't wait for your next video, lately i have been watching this one over and over, I printed the shark a few months ago, it looks great, hanging on my ceiling as a static model, I am a beginner RC pilot, so I thought it best just to leave it hanging...pun, and it was printed with regular PLA, so flight speed would have been above my level anyway, the reason why I bought a 3d printer in the first place, was to print RC planes, I have 5 static models currently, and think I am ready for a flying model, so I am printing a 50% scale of the cup now, using blue filament, actually looks good, but still not the correct color, but anyway, wil be on a full go next week, ordering every part to make my first flying 3D printed RC plane, thank you Troy, and yes, it will crash at least 3 times!🤣😆 But that is what this hobby is al about, cheers.
Hey, can you link the tire and engine pieces that you custom made? I just thought it would really look nice on my plane :)
Yes that would be nice.
Oui je pense aussi
Always, Great job!!
thank you so much! 😊
Hermoso... Gracias por compartir tan maravilloso talento. Algún día seguiré tus pasos.
That's what I've been waiting for like 2 weeks 😍
Same as you 🍻
Yes!! The wind is crazy here in Vegas, I had to wait an extra week for it to calm down
@@TroyMcMillan it's okay man, I'm glad to see that there's no "and crash" in the video title. Good thing that you waited a bit, but still I could hear the wind blow in the camera mic. Do you enjoy building the planes or flying them more? I know that it always hurts to crash any of the build but you're really nice pilot when you managed to get the plane in the air and then safely land on water. Great job, love the vid editing too.
@@LordMarinade I definitely prefer the building and tinkering aspect of this hobby. It is kind of both though because it is really satisfying to see it fly well after spending so much time building it!
Crashes are a part of the hobby and I always learn a lot from them, but it is soo nice when you can bring it back home in one piece 😂
And I appreciate the feedback on the editing! Thank you!
I printed one as well, it came out really nice. It was great of 3DLabprint to make this a free download. I printed mine in Polymaker Lightweight PLA on my Creality Ender 5 printer and it was an easy print.
What was the weight like for your print? I'm printing one out of Polymaker LW PLA right now and my fuselage came out at 117g, almost as much as the PLA version in this video.
Hey guys, I'm going to be using the same Polymaker Lw-pla. What were your settings?
Nothing better than a cub on floats great job
Excellent job
thank you!!
Great job! Really nice little Cub. Going to print this now. 👍🏻😁
Thank you! Have fun with it 😊
Great job! Nice video! Thanks for sharing!
Wow, thank you for sharing it!🙏🏼
Been waiting so long and its totally worth to watch. U rock 🤘
Thank you so much!! 😊
For the engine detail parts you could put a colour change in the print at the required layer height. It's easy in prusaslicer.
Super easy.
You make excellent video's ,, so well edited
Thank you so much!! I really do appreciate the feedback 😊
Highly underrated video. Nice work man!
Nice build and flights, welcome to float flying! I have about a 2-acre pond on my property that I prefer to fly from, float planes are always on my list. Super glad to see this Piper out there, and free! I've purchased a few from 3D Lab thus far and have been very happy with them. Currently building the AICHI M6A SEIRAN/NANZAN from them with floats. Love your videos, and it's nice to see someone with the same hobby. Yellow PLA ordered :)
Its a little funny that I don't think 3D Lab Print was ready for the response from your video. They must be happy at the sametime with all the traffic you brought them.
Haha! 😂 I’m glad everyone likes this plane as much as I do!
Yeah, so I looked at this print; then I found this video. I'm pretty familiar with RC helicopter builds and wanted this to be my 1st airplane. You're video and tutorial showed me everything I needed to know! Just FYI, some of the critical details were blipped over by the 'keep with the music beat' pace of the video. It wasn't missed by me, but I'm sure a few are asking WTH just happened between build segments 🥸
Thank you so much! It looks like the perfect thing to practice with!
😊
Very nice prop!
Instead of cutting the engine shaft, you can uclip it on the other side and smack it couple of times with hammer and it goes through (comes out on other side). That way if you later need the normal shaft, you can re-use the engine.
Possibly needed the room behind the motor.
Fantastic model¡¡¡ I noticed a wooden propeller when you were assembling the Piper. It is better a plastic prop if you go to water. Regards
Great job!
GREAT JOB Troy!!! Can you consider sharing cover of the tire .STL Please. Thanks.
Yeah I will put it up on my Cults page in the next day!
Strangely enough, that little thing added under the rudder the help steering in water is called a... wait, what is it... ah, a rudder:)
Ah, like an airport is a port for ships/vessels/craft that fly;).
As you know, mankind knew how to travel on water long before we could fly and there was a pretty extensive vocab that was right there for the taking for the flying folks.
that little part added to the tail isn't a traditional part on a full scale float plane. 3DLabPrint designed that to make the plane steerable in the water, but also to save weight by not adding an extra servo to the floats. It worked really well.
it makes me think about 3D printed boats!
@@TroyMcMillan sure. But still a rudder. But you did call it that later on;-). It’s all good - I love your work.
As for boats, it’s a good challenge for you but please do me a favor and research by checking out the printed sailboats like RG65 and IOMs. People have figured out the print settings for how to make waterproof hulls straight off the printer already. Still, I see tons of people doing their own boats and having to spend a lot of effort making them watertight. Not saying you should build a sailboat but do look into these print settings. As far as I remember, it’s about printing hot with no or few retractions and making sure your walls don’t have gaps. All stuff you’ll pick up faster than most:-).
And thanks for replying!
@@AntiVaganza Haha, no you are totally right. 😉Thank you, I appreciate it.
I have seen that! That would definitely be the goal to print it with it being watertight. With a boat it could stand to be printed out heavier with the extra material that would take too. A cool project for the future.
Yes, the weight penalty matters a whole lot less there.
Good luck with it - I actually think you will be helping a lot of people with that project as it seems boats are something a lot of people want to tinker with. But not many think they can print them watertight so they don't look into it and instead have to deal with coating the hull afterwards.
Once again, thanks for taking your time to reply. Really appreciate it!
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
Found it on ebay finally
I printed this in lightweight pla. I also printed your a21 airliner. Keep up the good work 👍
Very Beautyvoll Airplane
Super nice video. Great first water landing! Keep it up!
Thank you so much!! Flying it off water was so much fun
Impressive
thank you!
Awesome video Troy, I'm building this one!
Awesome as always!
thank you so much! 😊
So cool!
I got a Bambu P1P for Chriistmas and I just recently stumbled onto 3D Labs planes. After sifting through everything, I chose the Piper Cub as my first project. You definitely paved the way with this video! Excellent work. If mine turned out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.
Did you get the files to work? When I slice fuselage part 2 it wheigh 142g alone.
@@PhoneyBill Did you try too decrease the infill? And is the weight with supports? And what kind of pla do you use?
What is the Wingspan Troy! Very nice looking Micro RC Piper J-3 Cub Troy! Wonderful building skills my friend!!😉🛩💯
Thank you so much!! 42" wingspan!
@@TroyMcMillan your welcome sir!!
Thanks!! Have struggled with LWPLA printing, but really want to finish a plane. Downloaded this and Prusa slicer. Fuse printed beautifully in ColorFabb LWPLA! Wing just started. Thanks for the Prusa hint! Seems to be the ticket for me.
That’s awesome to hear! Thanks for letting me know it’s working for you! 😊
did you use the original prusa printer setup or did u go for the printer setup in the 3mf file? I haven't started printing yet, but i'm thinking go for the fillament and print settings in the 3mf file but use the prusa printer settings.
@@andreasaure6420 I used the Prusa slicer, and the 3mf files. I used 100% whatever settings came with the 3mf file - I didn't change a thing. I didn't even change to a Ender 3 in the settings - just loaded the file, sliced, saved to the card, and printed
@@scottiniowa1 ok i didnt use the 3mf files i used the gcodes :) but i think i should maybe do some tweaking since i use esun material insted of colourfabb
Whoa!, I'm used to balsa planes!
I'm in the process of of printing and assembling the Piper. Very, very impressed with the model. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into its design so as to make it both strong and easy to assemble. It appears to be much more robust than the Eclipson models.
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
Another great build! I’d love to see you make Planeprint’s Rise glider
I built this using the eSUN LW PLA and the printing of the files was easy using the prepared gcode or the 3mf files on a Prusa i3Mk3S. However a couple of words of warning - don't try to save time by printing more than one item at a time (filling the build plate). The filament oozes when travelling (even with 10mm retraction), so everything ends up covered in strands of plastic. They scrape off, but it's a pain to do. And secondly, I can't find any sign-writing vinyl that sticks to the LW PLA.
Yes, I agree, to get the best quality print one part at a time. For the vinyl, I use 3M high stick material that is meant for textured walls. It sticks so well, some have lasted for years now.
What if you use PLA and print multiple parts at same time, will the same problem happen?
@@TroyMcMillanHow do you print vinyl to make drawings and letters?
@@TroyMcMillanMe too I tried with the gcode but obviously it’s not available with my nozzle
@@awssassim Yes because it's using Vase mode. One path start to finish.
How many spools of LW PLA does it take to make.
Little less than one
Love you Video too! 😍👍👍👍
Thank you!!! 😊
padu bro🇵🇸🇷🇺ilike
😊😊😊 thank you bro
Nice job.
Hi, great video, are there STLs for the floats?
They are included in the STL for the cub!
pretty cool
On Printing with regular PLA I have so much issues in all Wing parts. The brodges which start at layer 78 hangs always, no matter which setting. Bridging settings doesn't have any effect to it. How you did that? Or did you have same issues in the Wing parts? Thanks for tipps and tricks!
yea good video as usual. WHat TPU did you use for the tyres?
thank you! I used varioshore tpu
wow its such cool
Thank you!!
@@TroyMcMillan sir, how much material is needed to print it the lwpla ?
@@jakubzabocki6182 its a little more than a quarter of a roll! You could very nearly print out 4 of these planes from a single roll of LWPLA
Which 3d printer did you use for this? Was it their super racer or a different model?
Nice
thank you 😊
@@TroyMcMillan I wana do stuff like that to
Safety notes:
Test motor operation without a prop.
For most radio systems:
Ensure low throttle and cut off stop the motor Then re-bind to reset the "failsafe" for loss of signal.
This will prevent motor start if you plug the airplane battery in before turning on the radio.
Too many accidents from not ensuring failsafe settings include motor off.
Most ESCs now use the default High/low of Spektrum/JR Some use Futaba's High/Low which exactly the opposite.
Awesome video! Troy, could you share the printable float files?
I still have some ColorFabbs LW-PLA to use up before purchasing the Polylight and wondered what, if any, the difference is and if so what settings I may need to change.
It prints out pretty much the same, I use 245C for PolyLight and I use 235C for ColorFABB. Everything else should be the same!
How do you print off the decal sheet? I cant seem to find anything compatible with my laser printer. Did you print it using the Actual size setting? what size is your label sheet?
Wow ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️👍
thank you!!
Awesome !!!
I printed my tires using TPU 95A and they are very hard, like PLA. What filament do you use?
Hi, nice job!!! did you have any problems with unsupported areas of the nose? I am trying to print with esun white lw PLA but using 3d lab print settings in prusa slicer I found that bridged areas on outside skin near the tip of the nose come out really ugly!
What was the total printing hours on this plain
Downloaded the 3D print files and attempting to print in Cura. Matched the files settings correctly but a base is printed on to each part. Any ideas how to omit this? Other than this, the parts print perfectly. I am talking about a setting in the printer tool, (brim / skirt etc.) set to none.
It's a shame the website does not provide STL file format files.
Is it Possible to laminate 3D Print RC Planes? Or will it Melt? If it Possible will it effect the strenth? And the aerodynamics?
Another great video Troy. I am currently printing this plane and I have a question where did you get your decals printed? Thanks for your help.
Thank you!! I get them printed from a local print shop. Ask for them to be printed on 3M High Stick material, like material that is used for textured walls
Avery nice project that you have presented. I have printed and assembled my model and am wondering about the C.G ??
Sorry about that ...just found it (should have read the small print. :
I have watched this video like 5 times now because I want to make one so bad
Incredible landscape - Nevada!?
Troy, currently printing this Cub, but I'm having trouble sourcing some steel pushrods for the elevator/rudder. Where do you suggest getting some 1mm steel rods that are long enough to connect? Thank you!!!
I'm having this same issue. Most out there are 450mm long. What did you end up doing? (Am mid-build at moment)
Love your work! Wish my prints came out like yours .... will you share the Prusa settings?
Lw pla planes are great if you already know how to fly. No so good for newbies that will crash a lot learning. I Built and rebuilt 3dlabprint’s cub at least 3 times trying to learn how to fly until i finally put it aside and designed and built a foam plane that could withstand all the crashing I went through learning. The point I am making is that its not about how repairable 3d printed planes are ( and they are quite repairable) its about how durable they are. A lw pla plane is quite fragile. One small mishap, and you’re done flying for the day. With foam, you may crash and the plane is only just a bit dented, or easily hot glued back together in the field.
I totally agree with ur comment. I'm mid build with this first 3d printed one but have been flying foamies for a few years. Kind of know what I will expect but at this point it's an itch I want to scratch. Foamies are so much quicker to get back up with when a crash happens.
@@ArceezRC upto 9 rebuilds on the cub. Me thinks I may be cursed to crash that model the most.
@stevetomassetti4420 I have a plane that's just like that but it's a foamie with a janky nose but still flies with a little E6000. Thx for ur response!
I have been waiting for this video since I saw you were working on it. What prop adapter are you using? I don't see it in the parts list. Do you need to cut off the original shaft to use this motor?
When I printed the nose section of the fuselage it came out different from the rest of the fuselage. There were structure supports inside and had a filled in bottom where the parts need to be connected. How do I fix this I am using the same slicer.
Hi thanks for the video, can I use Bambo Studio for slicing? I have a bambo P1S printer
Yes you can
I love this vid. Great job & thx for the help/demonstration. When printing the wings, how do you get good/solid ribs to print when they are essentially spanning the print walls/wing skin? All off my ribs are sagging because theres nothing to keep them flat during the print. Help please!
Спасибо огромное за чертежи! Жаль что не купишь себе то что хочешь из-за чёртовой войны
I seen the amount of super glue you used on the servo's when putting them in, would it not be better to use just a bit on the edge of the servo in case something should happen to the servo and it needs removal to be replaced?
Hi, great build! I was wondering where to purchase the correct wires needed for the elevator and rudder servos? Thanks!
Hello Troy, what camera do you use for the fpv at this place on the video 12:00?
I would like to print this plane but I have to make my adjustments first.
Would PETG be appropriate for the elevator hinges rather than ABS? Don't want to have to buy a roll of something I can't print with.
Yes! PETG will work fine
@@TroyMcMillan Thank you!
Troy great build and mod. Where did you get the Float Design STLs?
Done good
thank you!
Very nice!
How do you print those decals? Link to the paper vendor would be great. Thx.
I use a local decal shop to print them. Make sure you ask for 3M High Stick material, like material that sticks on textured walls. I have planes that have had this material of decal on them and they have lasted for years!
Hi Troy, i need your advice i can buy a Spektrum dx6g2 or would i buy a new NX8? I'm a bit confused, i'm new to the hobby and have to learn everything in rc flying planes .Grtz Jozua
To prevent the wings from sagging due to sunlight, we recommend 1mm carbon rods instead of filaments.
But it's PETG I think. Resistant to higher temp. I'd actually use ABS in mine.
If you print with regular pa do you have to add retraction
Muy Bueno!!
Muchas gracias!
Nice design job. Flies well. Is it strong enough for aerobatics - loops, rolls, spins?
How much LW filament is required for the complete plain, and which brand of filament do you use , also what glue do you use for joining parts together?
worth 10$ of 3dprintlabs LW-PLA
How do you turn the decal sheet image into decals?
You have to draw vector lines around each image, a print shop is able to do that!
12:17 a melhor parte, é a voz dela. 😂
Sweet! It will be my first RC plane build 😊
Hi...great channel. Its been a long time since I've been in this hobby and am thinking about getting back into it. What would you suggest for a printer. I have -0- experience with 3D printing but this seems to be a lot of fun. Any other suggestions would be great...perhaps a video for people thinking about getting into this. Thanks in advance!
Great build Troy! I'm printing mine right now and I am wondering what material have you used for gear legs and float holders? Is it their yellow PolyAir?
To get as close to the same color I printed the same 3D LabPrint LWPLA with regular PLA setting and it worked really good
@TroyMcMillan Im about to build this, build sheet shows push rod ends? I dont see them on the video anywhere, do you use these on this piper build ? Also i see lead weight? Where did you put lead weight at on this build if so? I have a bambu a1, will the gcodes need tweaked for Lwpla ? Thanks for your help in advance!
@@TroyMcMillan oh that’s clever 😎 Thank you for a tip 👍🏻
Could you show us how you make your decals.
these are included in the model for this plane! They are a part of the download
@@TroyMcMillan no I mean how do you print them, on what and how you apply them.
@@pascalwatteel2095 Oh sure! I get them printed out at a local print shop. It took a lot of testing different materials out but the best one I found is "3M High Stick" material. I would call around and really try to find that, but my shop said that material is normally used to adhere decals to textured walls. I send the vector files to them, and they print them out and use a plotter to cut the shapes out. That will save you a lot of time and hassle if your shop can do that too
I owned and flew 2 full size Luscombe airplanes - an 8A and an 8E. If you ever think of making a Luscombe with the same technique, that would be awesome! Great job Troy! Love the build and video! What camera(s) are you using from the plane?