DIY RC Plane Full Build - ft. FlashForge Guider 2s
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- Free STL Files: www.shark.aero/downloads
Free STL Files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:286...
Free Tires STL: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Free TPU Hinge STL: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Propeller Wall Art: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/p...
FlashForge Guider 2s Printer: www.flashforge.com/product-de...
Sequre Soldering Iron: sequremall.com/collections/so...
This is a 1/8 scale RC Shark Aero. Wingspan is 990mm Length 856mm with a takeoff wight around 950-1000 grams depending on battery and with or without gear. This has a very efficient wing so the flight time is longer than I have seen on most 3D printed airplanes with a flight time of around 8-10 min.
Thank you so much for watching!
If you like videos like this, consider buying me a coffee, it really supports me: www.buymeacoffee.com/troymcmi...
See what else I am working on: / troymcmillan_rc
/ troymcmillan_rc
#3DPrinted,#RCAirplane, #ItFlies
0:00 Free 3D Printed Plane STL Shark How to build
03:13 Flashforge Guider 2s Printer review and set up
07:42 RC Shark fuselage assembly
09:57 How to paint PLA plastic parts
13:29 RC Shark wing assembly
21:10 Sequre soldering iron review and how to use
Supplies required for this Build:
2x8mm Screws: amzn.to/2Tp9tpP
4x ES08Mll Servos: amzn.to/3iBfx9E
Or 4x Cheap servos: amzn.to/3ggbNsp
3530 1100kv Motor: amzn.to/3pIAjFy
30amp ESC: amzn.to/3xgNeRW
3S 2200mah Battery: amzn.to/3cyOBDo
4S 2200mah Battery: amzn.to/3geIPJq
9x6 prop: amzn.to/3gcPdki
8x8 prop: amzn.to/35gH3B2
Silver PLA: amzn.to/3vmukru
3D Printers I use and recommend:
FlashForge Guider 2s Printer: www.flashforge.com/product-de...
Artillery Sidewinder 3D Printer: amzn.to/396eqIp
Artillery Genius 3D Printer: amzn.to/39cA6CZ
Ender3 V2: amzn.to/2SmLOGk
Twotrees Sapphire-PRO: amzn.to/3wtNOLz
Anycubic Mega X Printer: amzn.to/3f4oS89
Fokoos Odin-5: amzn.to/3fAES06
3D Printing Filament:
ABS: amzn.to/3xgLI2c
Silver PLA: amzn.to/3vmukru
Overture White PLA: amzn.to/3facD9A
TPU: hobbyking.com/en_us/esun-tpu-...
Tools and Supplies used:
Spektrum DX6 Controller: amzn.to/3l6NFsD
Receiver: amzn.to/3j4PbK4
Battery Charger: amzn.to/3vejwfL
Charge cable: amzn.to/34lOk3q
XT60 connector: amzn.to/3iyZWnf
Assortment of 3-Pin Extension Cables: amzn.to/3l1xNYt
Z-Bend pliers: amzn.to/34mA0rt
2mm push rod ends: amzn.to/3nnjD4U
CA Glue: amzn.to/2J8EvNW
CA Accelerator: amzn.to/3fpbycz
Low-Voltage Tester: amzn.to/2Yk0A0w
Hot knife: amzn.to/3nrCwUH
Drill Bits: amzn.to/3nIJzrx
Hobby Knife: amzn.to/3eYOYJq
#11 blades: amzn.to/3vTJZ2W
Z-Bend pliers: amzn.to/34mA0rt
Build Mat: amzn.to/3vJmauw
Onboard Camera: amzn.to/3rp2OrH
Lead weight: amzn.to/3cFnzeu
These setting are for a direct drive printer you will have to adjust the retraction setting for a bowden tube style printer. Also if you print setting can be different with different printer filaments.
3D Printer Settings;
Quality:
Layer Height - 0.2
Line Width - 0.4
Shell:
Wall Line Count - 1
Infill:
Infill Density - 0
Material:
Printing Temperature - 230
Build Plate Temperature - 60
Flow - 102
Speed:
Print Speed - 40mm/s
Outer Wall Speed - 40mm/s
Inner Wall Speed - 60mm/s
Travel Speed - 120mm/s
Travel:
Enable Retraction - Checked
Retraction Distance - .8
Retraction Speed - 35mm/s
Retraction Extra Prime Amount - 0.2
Combing Mode - off
Cooling:
Enable Print Cooling - Checked
Fan Speed - 100%
Mesh Fixes:
Union Overlapping Volumes - NOT Checked
Special Modes:
Surface Mode - Normal
Experimental:
Slicing Tolerance - Middle
Disclaimer: I am sponsored by some of the products I mention. However, all of my opinions are my own. Some of the above links are affiliate links, that does not effect the price you pay for a product, but I may receive a small commission if you make a purchase. This helps support my channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
It's been my first ever 3d printed plane. It's a good design that deserved a nice video. Thumbs up!
how fast is it?
@@user-ux2wk6bn8g Fast enough 😁
you have a natural, calm, instructive nature about you. Very interesting and absorbing to watch your craft, hobby and interests in 3D printing, model making and RC plane flying.
Thank you for showing us building and flying, I got interested of the real plane and saw that they attached a free 3D print model, then I start searching for more info and I found your video.
Also, don’t forget to put a treat anywhere in the box for your furry friend every time you open the box, remember if you are excited to open a box how much more with your friend, I can see he/she is very attentive while opening the box so please give him/her a treat 😀👍
Piękny model. Rewelacyjne wykonanie. Świetny w powietrzu !
Very cool plane. Great flying too!
Thank you so much for your videos. You're a true master of this craft.
Me and a few buddies were having problems printing wing panels with our Guider II’s. We were extremely frustrated and after using your settings they are perfect!!!
Thank you!!
Did you use cura? I'm working on printing my first plane and got lw pla and everything but decided I want to try this one as my first. So I ordered more tough pla and need alittle help. Can't get a reply from Troy I'd say hes pretty busy.
@@dericklong6191 cura is a great slicer, it works good with this model, but it will likely work best if you import the g-code files instead of the .STL (and trying to get the settings right)
This looks amazing, though I wonder if you could modify the canopy to allow for a RunCam Split 4 4K High Definition camera and module for some great aerial footage without adding to much weight or offsetting the centre of gravity to much.
Thank you for this! Gcodes still printing, but so far the fuselage and canopies are amazing! Ender 3SI PLUS.
Very cool and great camera work!
I use layers of masking tape to properly gap control surfaces. Just wrap a couple pieces of tape around the back of the wing near the hinge in 2 spots then all you have to do is slide the elevator or aileron up to the tape. Once the CA is dry pull the tape out.
Thanks for the tip!
very good, another excellent video, the plane's design is beautiful and the assembly and painting was top...congrats
Congratulations, amazing job!
Use black electrical tape around the tire. It last a good while and significantly reduces the rattle. I do this even on some of my large scale planes with normal rubber tires for reducing the traction grab on asphalt so it ground handles like it's on grass instead of snapping uncontrollably with rudder movement.
Hey Troy! This is an excellent guide. Thank you very much.
Compliments from Turkey!
Thank you! So happy I could help :)
belo modelo..... excelente trabalho .. parabéns!!!!
Another great build video plus parts list in the description. Very nice and thanks for doing all the hard work here. Is there any chance you can share the stl files for the wheels and tires? To be honest I'm old and lazy and don't want to have to learn how to use a CAD tool and how to design wheels/tires for this one project. Also can you point us to the stl files for the tpu hinges that you used in the build? Thanks again and keep up the excellent work.
Du machst wunderschöne Modellflugzeuge! Macht.risige Freude.Dir beim Zusammenbau zuzuschauen! GRATULATION Bruno Kempter of Swiss
That’s brilliant, the Flash forge is out of my price range, I only have the old yellow one. Defiantly need to look at printing this plane, when I upgrade my printer. Great video. 👍🏻
Definitely? xD
Don't buy a flash forge
Awesome video man! Inspirational too.
Thanks for sharing! Sweet !
Thank you very much for these great videos
Hi Troy, 1st of all your Chanel is so good and very helpful. I am building 2 of the planes you have shown.
I am using your thin wall settings on my Creality cr-10s pro v2. I also have a Guider IIs.
I was hoping you could share how and what settings you used in Cura to set up the Guider IIs please.
Big fan for Australia...
beautiful plane, will definitely build one. Will be my first low wing plane!
飛很快也很穩定，很棒的飛機。
Very beautiful model and beautiful work, congratulations👏👏👏👏👏👏🇧🇷
Excellent job
pretty neat design and satisfying use of tools. at 1kg with that wing surface it's on the high wing loading side. feels like 3D printing it pushes the weight up quite much.
Yeah but he does mention he's using a larger than recommended battery which will add a lot to the weight.
Dude you deserve way more subscribers than you’ve got for the trouble you go through to create these beautiful videos. You are very thorough in your tutorials and most importantly you are one smart SOB ! Thank you for the video and thumbs up and new subscriber.
Beautiful plane.
Troy, thanks for the free Shark download. The Shark is an evolution of the Millennium Master, and my Tower Hobbies model is one of my best flying planes! I was worried when that model went away, and I'm very glad to see this variation that will never go away!
i printed mine using the supplied gcodes and it printed great, it all went together great without any sanding or anything, come to print the landing gear using the gcodes and they might as well be for another plane, they print great but are miles away from fitting each other, the springs won't fit in the legs, the front leg won't fit into bracket it rotates in, the steering arm won't fit into the spring
Excelente trabajo... sigue así..Saludos desde Cuba
Beautiful build good job👍🏼 how durable are they? Dont they break easily?
Just about to start the build of mine over the Christmas break, using PolyAir PLA. I will also try the eSun LW-PLA.
really beautifull plane . gg for your work
Is the Ender 3v2 a good 3d printer for making rc planes
No
It’s not ideal but it’s good enough
Great video, long time scratch builder, wanted to try printing a plane, this is perfect, before buying different ones. Thanks for sharing with us, have subbed.....
Hey Troy, thanks for taking the time to show the build and the flying footage - I do enjoy watching your vids. Now onto the model itself - I personally have been designing and 3d printing airplanes for a while and my first impression was that from the outside the model is indeed looking very nice. Now from an internal perspective - not so much. I normally just go with a 2mm thick shell, which is made up to two 0.4mm walls (so 0.8mm total) and the remaining 1.2mm usually has 5-10% of infill. I find that this way the shell is quite strong (perhaps a bit of an overkill for PLA as it's quite strong naturally - I normally print with LW PLA). I think the internals (servo mounts, tubes, etc - particularly fuselage parts 2-3) are way overdone, but we all have our own style! :)
At first, I didn't even look at the gcode files and went to slice the STLs myself. Of course I found that the models (particularly fuselage parts) had "errors", i.e certain geometries were shown as printed in mid air. Ticking "Keep Disconnected Faces" box in Cura somewhat helps the issue, but still, I was surprised that given the author's background, why would a 3d model be designed so poorly? But then the gcode.. See below.
In the end, I thought to hell with it, went and printed one of the fuselage parts straight from the provided gcode and I was shocked, because I don't think I've ever had a print looking that crisp! Sorry, took so long to get to the punch line, but that is what surprised me the most, so clearly, I'm not as good with Cura as I thought I was! Will need to investigate what settings exactly they used to generate the gcodes!
Thanks again! Hope to see more of your vids in the future.
Hi Troy, I am wanting to print the TPU wheels you designed, are you able to assist with some of the setttings please? in particular the infill settings for the tyre and the infill for the tyre rim.
hello, awsome work
can we use other contreller ? if yes, which one do you advice ? thanks
I’m actually printing this plane
Nice custom painting
Nice job 👌👌👍 . Much love from India. Big fan of you
Great video! Did you get that red battery holder clip thing with the download?
Dude I'm inspired. I just got a printer and already fly RC everything, so yeah!
Sweet! Have fun printing :)
Great video thank you buddy
Hey, another printer? I just bought Artillery sidewinder x1. Lol. Hope to see more builds with Swx1. Thank you for all you do for this hobby. It's been very helpful. Coffee is on the way.
I still use the sidewinder every day, it is a great printer! I am so happy to help :)
Excellent videos, if you could help me in this field to know which is the printer that gives good results, which one would you recommend, the most suitable plastic filament and other details in such a way to do it yourself, thank you very much.
I'm new to 3d printing but learning fast. Love your posts. I printed and built the Shark. Maidened it yesterday. Was a little tail heavy so I landed to move the battery. The right wing broke loose (the landing was not that hard and on grass). The wing needs a spar. Also, the landing gear, while cool, are not strong enough. The nose gear was very difficult to complete as parts did not fit well and I had to spend a lot of time sanding and trimming to get them to fit. I thought the fuse was well designed and went together well. This is my fourth printed plane. All of them are just way too fragile. I sometimes wonder if the people that create these files are also rc flyers. I'll keep trying, lets hope these designs improve. Love your vids.
I'm in the same boat as you, haven't flown it but today testing it on ground, one of the main gear broke taking a curve, Trying to redesign it right now to make it stronger.
Worked well on Ender-3 Pro
3:10 It's nice to see how the plane deals with hard landings...
Thank you so much brother. I requested it. :D
Watched a few of you videos and all I can say is you Sir have great skills..
That paint work is sweet..do you have any videos of how its done id love to know.
Nice work brother
Subbed
Respect
Awesome!
hi nice miden flight... btw what filament and glue u use PLA-LW or regular PLA?
Troy thanks for the video but what wheels and hubs did you use. I could not find them on the Shark.Areo site or in any of the updated files. thanks for the great video
@Troy McMillan,
Did you print this at a smaller scale than the original STLs? Couldn't help but notice... My plane came out HUGE
Super cool
Love the videos, i had just started making this plane as i picked up a kobra for christmas. Do you use z hop when printing these planes ? Been having troubles printing the fuselage they keep failing about halfway, not sure if its getting caught on something or whats happened
Another question if you don't mind. I'm printing the fuse sections at the moment. I'm having trouble with fuse section 3. The long guide tubes for the control wires are not supported well and move when the print head passes over them causing the ID (opening or hole) of the tube to close up. By default the print is oriented with the big end down on the build surface. I'm in the process of printing it again with it flipped it 180 degrees so that the small end is down instead. I've also added supports to see if that helps. I was wondering if you had similar issues with section 3 if if so what did you do to address them?Edit: well inverting the fuse didn't work. I'm using cura 4.9.1 (latest). After slicing and using preview I can move the slider and see that the internal structures are not being rendered correctly, with some of the internal structure being printed in "mid-air" due to sections below not being printed at all. Under special modes I changed the "surface mode" from "normal" to "surface" and that seems to have fixed the problem when previewing it. TBH I don't have a clue what this setting does and am just taking shots in the dark here. I am printing it now to see if this change fixes the issue.Edit2: Well none of the changes I mentioned in the first edit worked and in fact introduced other problems as well. One thing that changed with the printing of section 3 was that I changed filament brands from hatchbox to overture. I've used both of these brands with no issues in the past but just in case I will try printing with some more hatchbox. If that test fails I will try slicing the section 3 fuse with an older version of cura just in case there is some kind of issue with the newest version of cura which is what I am using. I will come back and provide an update on the results. Edit3. Tried a re-print using hatchbox PLA and did get a better print than what was observed using overture. But the problem remains that the internal structure that supports the tube wire guides is not rendered correctly in the cura slicer resulting in unusable tube wire guides. I tried slicing with older versions of cura but that didn't fix the issue. At this point I am stuck and unable to proceed further. Just in case it helps my printer is a c reality CR6 SE although it's easy to see that the slicer and/or the STL (design) is the issue. I'm just wondering how Troy avoided this issue. Edit4 I modified the gcode that came with the download to work with my CR6 and the print is now underway and is looking good, will report on the finished product later. Looking at the gcode it was created under cura version 3.1 so downloaded that version and tried slicing with that, results were the same as with the current version of cura. Also noticed some z-seam settings in the cura settings folder for the fuse. I implemented those settings and sliced the stl resulting with a different location for the seam so I will try printing that file soon. Will report back on all the results once they are complete.Edit5 Success!! I was able to get a good print using the supplied g-code after modifying it to work better with my specific printer. After printing it I noticed that the z-seam was located in the middle of what is the lower part of the of the fuse section. When I sliced the stl i had the z-seam location set in a different location so i decided to slice the stl again but this time locating the z-seam in the same location as observed on the print from the supplied gcode which was Zseam x = 0.0 and Zseam y = 117.5 (this is the same as the "user defined" setting of "left" in the current version of Cura). So with that as the zseam setting I sliced the model and printed using that gcode and the print sort of worked but there is a structural piece towards the end of the print that does not print correctly. If you view the sliced model you can see gaps in the supports that causes the structural areas to fail printing. So bottom line the only way to get a good print is to use the supplied gcode. It is possible someone could go in and modify the stl file to make things work, for me that is way beyond my skill set atm. .
A very nice plane Troy. I didn't see a wing spar. Does it have one?
It does not, it doesn't need it!
What material did you use to print? ABS, PETG? Will PLA work? Missed it most probably
Any advice on the heatbed orientation for the grills???
Wow! great build =) No need for an additional carbon spar in the wing? And may I ask what software you're using to do your prop calculations? Thanks again for the amazing content. Paint job is fantastic too :-D
www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
They have other calculators too, check em out
@@jotham123 Sweet, thanks!! :-) Checking it out now!
I think I need more of your cura settings.... I printed my front canopy and its just an outer shell with no top or bottom or inner structures, really flimsy. so I added 10% infill and it has grid lines on the outside.... Please help
what should the print settings be?
Like infill and also what filament should I use petg?
What cad do you use
Super like from 🇧🇷
I will try to build this plane. thanks for your work .. could you try an RV-7? of Vans and company?
Can you recommend print settings Ender3 V2
Thanks
Hi Troy, Did you print version 5? I have been trying to get part 2 of the body printed, but it kept on failing, then I noticed the internal supports does starts mid air, no matter what orientation? Is it only me? They even stop and continue mid air?
No wing spar/tube required?
I wanna see a full sized 3d printed 747 and I want it now!!! 🤯🤯🤯
It is there
Czech and Slovak RC plane. wow
Nice Build. You are Working Hard. Lots of Love from Pakistan ❤️🇵🇰.
thank you so much :) Hi!
Great and inspiring video!!! Does anybody have Simplify 3D settings? Most of the models are not showing on the preview. Thx a lot!
Hello Troy, tell me what kind of slicer you use.
Wow So Beautiful Plane😍😛😜👍
Very nice video Troy!
How much filament is needed to print this plane?
I am printing it but as it is my first plane I had some issues with stringing or some parts of the fuselage having to be reprinted and I am almost done and I have used just a littlebit over 1kg of PLA and a bit of PETG for the motor mount and some TPU for the tries.
Hope it helps
Can I do this in lightweight pla? I just ordered some lime green lw pla because I was going to print the su-29 but I see this one has less parts and would he a good first build. What do you recommend? Thanks
What software have you used to 3D model the aircraft? I have been using Solidworks and it seems impossible to make it as good as yours.
Curious as to why use CA and not acetone to glue?
Noob question here for my first build. Longest push rods I could find online are too short to reach the servos internally. Is there a specific clamp/join that I should use to extend these or should I just purchase wire elsewhere and cut to size? Great vid btw, helped me alot with most of the build
Retraction value is ok?
I am finding the fusage 1 being assimetric should i be worried that the motor is not facing foward perfectly?
You said to print the plane with the included Gcode files that we could just change the direct extrusion part to bowden, how to do it?
Very Nice!! Where is that flying site at?? Looks Sweet there!! 🤙🤙
Dang good video
you mentioned editing reaction settings in gcode file. could you give more details on this?
Im a bit skeptical of those plastic springs for the landing gear. Other than that I might try this plane out :D
Maybe belly land it instead!
Hi. What size nozzle do you use?
How big does your printer need to be all I have is a ender 3 ik it would be time consuming but could it be done as well
This plane and the design is beautiful! I have tried to print 1 piece but it comes out very fragile, I try another and also !! I can't get how to make it come out, I already checked the calibration, the parameters I transcribe them to the properties, I upload the profiles but the piece is still fragile! too fragile !! I don't know what it could be ... my printer is an anet 8, hopefully you can help me !! regards !!
how long it takes to print?
About how much filament does this plane take?
I see there's separate servos for ailerons. So you could employ flaperons?
What wire do you go for with control rods? The last build I did the wire was a little too bendy..
He said 1.2 millimeter wire.
Not sure what material though …
Yeah, I got 1.2mm wire, but too soft and pliable though.. trying to find out the right material..
@@paulradford4100 I use 1.2mm music wire for everything, it has some bend to it but it is very strong and works great
@@TroyMcMillan By "music wire" do you mean piano or guitar wire?
Great Job 😳. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
thank you!!
Excellent video. I'm about to start printing but which filament to use. Normal PLA or PLA LW? I have become a
"e-sun" user find that gives me the best results on my ender 3.
this one is eSun's PLA+
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks. I seem to get the best results with Esun +. This will be my 6th model trying a variety of filaments with varying results. Some I have printed a second time with weight being an issue.
what program you using for 3d modelling?