Amazon links to relevant products (from the desc): Manifold gaskets, Ford 1119284 (x4) ~ Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | UK: amzn.to/2cpztel For more IM related parts see the video on the flaps th-cam.com/video/amRXA22ofds/w-d-xo.html and on the PCV valve/hose th-cam.com/video/-TR4pZdXZpg/w-d-xo.html .
I saved about 500 pounds in repairs on my Volvo V50 with a Duratec engine thanks to you! I had less connectors and less space so the fuel rail had to come off but otherwise your video was spot on for me too! I hadn't done more than changing oil and brake pads previously, but thanks to your attention to detail I tried it and handled it with not too many issues. For anyone doing this on a V50/S40 you need: 3/8" socket wrench (and sockets). Two 3/8" extenders, I found that 2 15cm extenders were perfect. A couple of ball joint (?) sockets (the sockets that you can move around to get the perfect angle) A magnet "stick" that is bendable. And please buy an endoscope camera! I gave up and bought a cheap one (30 pounds) that I hooked up to my laptop. I probably saved 2 days of cursing at my car. Putting everything together was super easy with the camera. Plus it gave me a good look at my cylinders and tons of other uses so far. The reason why Volvo owners needs 3/8" tools is because anything larger will not fit due to the lack of space. I tried and had to go to a hardware store because it just didn't work. I crammed Putty in my sockets instead of the tape method and it worked well. I wouldn't risk using Putty without a camera or good lighting and a mirror though. Just make sure to clean the bolt heads with WD40 or something first so the adhesive has a good mounting surface. Also, unless you're really strapped for cash please order gaskets for the intake manifold while you're at it. You will realize that this is not a quick or a fun job if you have no previous experience like me. All gaskets cost me about 30 pounds from Volvo, but I could've probably saved cash if I ordered online. Last thing! The bolt in the bottom was so rusty that it broke off, I tried using WD40 and a torch for two days but the bolt was completely stuck in the engine. I've driven for 2 months "without" a bolt in the bottom without a single issue though. So if you have the same experience, don't worry about it. Please feel free to reach out for any questions, I can't promise to answer quickly though.
I followed your video step by step and pulled it off. Couldn't have done this without you; thank you for the clear, concise instructions and appropriate usage of swearing during the nasty parts.
hello friend, i'm from brazil, i'm doing this preventive maintenance myself on my ford mondeo, in brazil i didn't find even a video that would teach me how to do this type of service and on your channel it taught me clearly how to perform the service, thank you for your video is subtitled in Portuguese so I could understand all the steps necessary to complete the maintenance the way I wanted, the problem with my car is getting the acceleration changed and it's high and for that reason it has a very high fuel consumption and I already took it to mechanics and they didn't have the slightest desire to fix it so I decided to do the service myself and try to solve the problem thanks for helping me friend your channel is very good for those who have the willpower to get their hands dirty. it cost
Wanted to thank you for posting this video. I removed the swirl flaps on my son's 2007 Ford Focus, and this video was great help. Just have to wait for all the scratches on my arm to heal.
Hi! I did the flap replacement job at the weekend. - My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol) - I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there. - The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged) - There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary. As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.) Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound. In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km . Thank you very much the video and the instructions!
An excellent and informative video. I used to be a home mechanic years ago mainly doing work on a Triumph 2.5 P.I. and my wife's British Leyland cars! I had not worked on a car for some time, but this video gave me the confidence to have a go again ( it did have its moments though). I did use 10 mm sockets on the manifold nuts but one slipped and rounded it off after that a used 3/8" and 1/2" these also held the nuts secure when refitting the manifold and i did not have to use tape or blue tack. Thanks for your help Craig, I did not do the job in 24 minutes like you did on your video !! but I got there in the end and its great not having a car that revs its balls off every time i stop. Rgds and Thx again, Dom.
Great video, made replacing the PCV pipe and valve on a Fiesta ST150 much less of a horror than it could have been. When refitting the seven bolts that secure the manifold, I found that it was possible to use a magnetic pickup tool to help guide the wobbly extension bar setup and blu-tac'd in bolt into the right place - saved me a whole load of time, skin and swearing on reassembly.
Discovered yesterday that by far the easiest way to access that hidden manifold bolt is to drop the radiator and shroud assembly by 2 inches (50mm). This is easy to do, just get under car and remove the front plastic cover that sits below the rad (4 screws and two clips). Then support the radiator and shroud assembly with a trolley jack and remove the four bolts (2 each side) from the radiator brackets. Go back to the top of the car and remove the plastic screws that hold the front grill in place and lift the grill up out of the way so you can see the radiator. I didn’t remove the grill completely as I didn’t want the hassle of fiddling with the bonnet release mechanism, I just supported the grill with a big chunk of wood I had lying about. Now, working carefully lower the jack slowly and you should see the rad assembly start to move down out of the way. Hey presto after a while you will be able to see that pesky bolt sitting smugly in the manifold. All you have to do now is rig up a combination of socket extensions to cover approx 24 inches so you can go in through the hole and grab that bolt. Top tip, put some grease or silicone sealant in the end of your socket so the bolt doesn’t drop when you withdraw it. PS, If you are changing the pcv hose this will be the least of your worries anyway. I have the cuts and bruises on my arm to prove it. Ford in their wisdom decided to make a hard job even harder by making replacement hoses thicker and therefore making the bore narrower so it won’t go on without a serious fight. Good luck
i took one out the other day and its a great experience to service all accesories that lie behind it, esp. the pcv valve w/ its seal and its hose in my case, all bolts holding it were corroded and the dipstick assy was slightly different - this one had two 30 star screws holding it directly to the intake manifold (i need to chissel it & replaced these screws with regular 8 mm screws but w/ a 10 mm head) to install it back i applied yellow weather strip glue inside the gaskets held in position by the intake and indian head shellack to the intake ports on the head and egr port as well i have to do it twice bc after the original installation, once i started it, the engine had a bad vacuum leak so, i took it out again and find out the inner lip of the # 3 intake runner cavity was broken i fix it with jb weld mixture after 2 hours waiting period to dry out; and made the channel form w/ a rotary dreamel from hf good enough just to hold the same gasket in place i did clean all debris and put the weather strip again inside the cavity to hold in place the intake seal i started it right away and the vacum leak dissapeared the same way as it appeared lol
Many thanks for this great content Craig. I have applied what you showed to my 2005 fiesta ST150, which has the same 2.0l duratec. I suspected my vacuum hose which connects to the PCV valve had failed due to a hissing sound and loss of power, which turned out to be the case! It had a small split. I also serviced the valve and checked the engine for sludge which was fine. These engines really are fantastic, considering the car is 12 years old with 120,000 miles! Interestingly the fiesta ST does not have the flaps as standard so I don't have to worry about that. Once again thank you for taking the time to make these videos, you have saved me hundreds of pounds and extended the life of my car. Ross
Thank you Craig! My wife's 2006 Ford Focus wagon was throwing random P0171 "lean bank" codes and then it started stalling at idle. I followed the instructions in this video, and the 1A Auto Mazda 6 PCV and manifold gasket videos featuring technician Sue. I found a 1.5 inch crack in the PCV hose. Tips: - Don't drain the coolant unless you need to replace the coolant hose that runs past the PCV hose. - You can get the bottom bolt on the manifold without lifting the car. - The Focus manual says remove the fans and shroud. If you have the correct socket extensions, you don't need to. But I did take off the EGR tube (22mm wrench). I also unbolted the fuel rail and popped the injectors and moved the rail to get better access to the clip on the PCV hose. I was able to leave the fuel line connected. - I found a rare-earth magnet that fit in the 10mm socket. No more dropped bolts. - You need the extra long angled needle-nose that Sue uses like a surgeon's forceps. - Where Sue just presses on the electrical connector for the Intake Manifold Runner Control actuator, I had to use a right angle gasket pick at the top of the latch. - The PCV valve retainer ring cracks easily. Carefully pry up - and out - at the right locking tab with a thin tool. Again, thanks!!
Thanks Craig, just did a 07 Ford Focus and your video really helped, specifically the manifold bolt locations, taping bolts to socket, electrical connectors and that nasty PVC hose behind the manifold!!
"and this will hold the little bastard..." haha. Also, magnets work well! A little neodynium magnet either inside the socket or a larger one taped to the outside will give enough magnetism. Great video!
The most important part of any how-to-take-it-apart video is how to get the funny hose and electrical clips off without breaking them. Sometimes I go to local junk yard and learn how they go before I break all of mine.
Thanks a ton dude! Took out the swirl flaps today, this video saved me hours of work! I'd be happy to buy you a beer or two if you have some way of accepting donations. Cheers!
Thank you for your video. It gave me all the information I needed to Change the PCV hose on my daughters ford Mondeo. Infact would not been able to have done the job without it.
this bolt is "dead easy" and the rest on on the top. Words rarely spoken (in general) let alone for a bolt that is located down-under. thank you for this video.
Great video. Someone may have pointed this out already but, the soft pcv hose may be what caused the oil in your manifold. The hose would collapse causing a build-up of crankcase pressure forcing oil up into the manifold. There should be no oil in a properly functioning manifold system.
Hi, I'm interested in your post. My 07 Focus is drinking oil, I stripped everything as per vid and am now worried the oils rings have gone on the pistons, but it runs fine a part form the smoke! The swirl flaps were totally coated from established oil build up so I'm guessing its been like this for a long time. Is there anything else I could check?
A great video with comprehensive commentary regarding the procedure. Your explanations make it so easy to follow and make it easy to do the job, thank-you.
Just brilliant!! You're the man, Craig!!! Have to do that nasty job but thanks to your excellent video(s) on the subject of deadly swirl flaps I'm feeling quite confident now. Thanks again!
Great video! It made a tricky job much easier. Fortunately it was just a split PCV pipe so we should be back on the road soon. The car was whistling like a kettle as the split was vibrating.
this an awesome video! I was able. to remove the manifold, clean the TB, oil separator, and change the pcv valve all within 4 - 5 hours. Without this video I would have not been able to find all 8 bolts.
Thanks so much for this video. I thought I had noisy lifters or whatever you call them in these cars. I had no idea about these tumble flaps and the fact they could destroy my engine if they broke away. I tackled my car yesterday and thus and your other video were so much help. There were some minor differences because of a different model year but still a ton of help.
Thanks this worked really well for me. I'm here in america with a 2007 Ford Focus SES 2.0L Taping the bolts/magnets are a must to not loose them and it was pretty clear removal overall. I'd say it takes 3-4 hours first time around and way less time next time. THANK YOU!!!
@Craig's DIY Car Thank you so much, this video was a godsend. I needed to remove the intake manifold to get to the cylinder head and I wasn't quite sure how to do it until I saw this amazing video. Thank you so much.
Glad I stumbled across this. I only needed to figure out how the clip on the air intake comes loose, will definitely come back for future reference if needed. Handy for my 07 Focus 1.8.
I have to say this looked very doable, and I tried it today on my Volvo S40 1.8 2006. There's a lot less room than shown here and the middle bottom bolt is a total mare, sat inside a hole. 8 hours later in the miserable sleet and rain I got the thing out, so will have to have another bash to finish tomorrow.
Sorry forgot to mention that the video itself is bang on, well done, I wouldn't have even tried this if I hadn't seen the videos. Just wish my MoT was due in spring or summer, this is no fun working -1, its gonna be a looooong day 2. I will post some pics on the Volvo UK Forums, it might help someone in the same boat, as the bolts are in a different position to the ford engine.
No worries now , sorted it. After a frustrating hour of trying to line it up using a torch and a mirror I noticed that if I put my head by the throttle body and looked across I could just about see the bolt head.
FYI, I have the rod and air intake flaps, I removed them just in case of further issues as I dont plan on doing this again, if you need some new ones, let me know.
Awesome awesome video. Thank you so much for taking time to do this. Was really struggling to get the intake M. removed from my Mazda 6. This gave me the confidence that what I was doing was correct and just to persevere! Great pacing, clear steps and a bit of humour. Brill.
Hey there, used this for my Mazda 5. Thanks so much for the video. I didn't know about that damn center bolt and about to lose my mind when I found your video. My car now has a new PCV and is all back together without any extra bolts and no broken connectors! Cheers mate.
Sorry Craig, only seeing your reply now. There was no noticeable difference at all on the 2004 Mazda 6, 2.0L petrol (L series engine). The only thing I couldnt do was the connector you call "the brake booster" which goes in to the throttle body I simply could not remove at all - even with the push down to unlock trick in your vid. Dont know if its a different fitting or just seized from age on mine (I suspect seized!) Anyways, for anyone else struggling with this part, you can just disconnect the brake booster from the other end of the same hose. Thanks again :)
Your video is GREAT to Perfection! I Just bought a Volvo C30 that does come with the Duratec 2.0 I live in Brazil but the car is totally imported. Not sure if this engine has the swirl flaps of death! But the engine is consuming a good amount of oil... I believe that is the PCV... Will try this later on! But I want to buy some replacement parts... I do not know how hard is to get this parts... Cheers! Great Vid!! Thanks a Lot
Great video! I'm sure I've got a split PCV hose hence the reason for watching you guide. I've almost got the manifold off but have just spent around 30 minutes just trying to locate the last bolt nearest the power steering pump and still haven't managed to locate it and get a socket on it. Do you have any tips for locating it? Thanks in advance
Awesome vid! This video helped me out a bunch when I went to replace the PCV hose for my car, a Ford Focus SE 2007. The only real differences that I encountered were that the wiring wasn't routed across the intake manifold, instead it was routed round the front, so it was mostly out of the way and a little more convenient for me.
Just wanted to say a huge thank you - used this video to great effect to remove the inlet manifold from my 2005 Fiesta ST (2.0L Duratec). Wasn't exactly the same due to the fitment in a fiesta but close enough that this video was really useful - especially the position of all the bolts. Thanks!
Great video. It made me confident I can do this repair... and a I did it. Two things: duratec on mondeo mk4 160K km are also worn and second: on mk4 you need to remove the injection rail otherwise the intake cannot slip out of the bonnet.
Many thanks for a great video Craig it has given me the confidence to remove these pesky flaps and rod from my 2004 66k miles 2L Mondeo. However before I start I want to disconnect the actuator pushrod from the flap rod and compare engine performance over a couple of days without the flaps working. (Not happy with just leaving the vacuum hose off) 2 issues come to mind though: a) If the pushrod isn’t designed to be removed from the actuator how should it be secured. b) Will the rod need to be secured in the ‘open’ position to prevent the flaps closing / working its way out. Many thanks in advance for any further advice and also to everyone else who has contributed to this worrying topic.
a - To disconnect the pushrod you really need to take the actuator off the IM, I'm not sure you can flex the arm away enough (or you might break it trying). If you do that you are disconnecting the vacuum hose so might as well just do it at the other end. b - The flaps sit relaxed in the open position, the actuator under vacuum (at idle) closes them.
@@CraigsDIY Ah I thought I might have got away with just removing the actuator to disconnect the pushrod-flap rod connection then refitting back on the IM. As for the Rod I assume as the fit is so tight it won’t work its way out on a running engine after the above. Many thanks for replying so quickly.
Great video Craig, and your sense of humor despite the pain of a job it was! I have a Volvo S40 2007 which I believe it has the same kind of engine as ford 1.8L petrol. I suspect PCV valve issues however is there any accurate tests to be done to make sure pcv needs replacement before going into such tedious surgery procedure? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thumbs up for your videos! Thanks!!
Absolutely amazing how clean the inlet valves are, valves on direct injection engines are carbond up by 30 thousand miles! Worst thing they ever did on engine's direct injection !!
Hello, I have a mk3 2006 1.8 Duratec petrol, but my car was rejected at the annual inspection, too high CO and a lot of blue smoke and therefore also oil consumption. Now my question is, what could I do to find out where the oil consumption comes from and the high Co value? The inspector said the engine is probably worn out and needs an overhaul, what do you think? Mileage is 255,000 km, I live in Europe. Thanks
Thank you so much for this. I was able to replace my split PCV hose in '04 Mondeo using your video alone. Well okay, I referred to Haynes manual just to double check the torque settings and that's all.. but you've covered everything perfectly. Thank you, thank you, and thank you !!!!!
hi, do you have high oil consumption? , I see your upper ventilation tube comes in front of the air damper in the pipe circuit after the air filter, at the focus it is already in the air filter box, I'm wondering ... if you do it like you do in my focus, will oil be sucked out through the upper crankcase pipe? ,
I seem to be struggling to undo the bolt by the steering pump ,everything seems to be in the way other than all bolts are out. Do you undo the bolt from the top or the bottom? I cannot see a way to get at it.
I think it's shown here at 12:02 - the far left one. All from the top. There is another unrelated bolt near the PS pump that you can mistake for the manifold bolt, use a strong flashlight and pay careful attention that you're undoing the right one. The manifold bolts are all through their plastic surrounds, use the graphic I did at 11:00 for reference.
Hey there. Stupid question: when removing the dip stick, did you drain the oil beforehand? Or does it not leak out with oil in the pan? And I suppose coolant wasn't drained either? Cheers
Does the 2014 Ford Transit Connect have swirl flaps in the intake sounds like mine have a bad engine knock and the noise is heard louder with a listening device and the intake manifold.
Hello Craig, I now own a 2005 Focus with a 2.0L DURATEC (173k miles) and I need to replace the intake manifold gasket. Your video on the intake removal is very helpful, you seem to have video capture and editing abilities that are very helpful compared to other videos on TH-cam. What year is the car your working on in this video? My Focus seems to have more room in front of the intake after I drop the fan assembly. My vehicle also has the long life air filter assembly so that is why I'm wondering what year is your car in this video? Your DURATEC also has a common ing coil pack with plug wires. My version has the coil on top of each plug. I'm just trying to understand the differences between these two powertrains. Thanks, KPO.
Hey Kevin, I've got a 2005 Focus with 2.0L and I don't know if it's because of how dirty the engine bay appears to be or what but did you have any issues moving your intake manifold when you went to remove it? I've just undone the 7 bolts, I've also gotten the one from the underside and it won't budge at all.
I'm extraordinary lazy and uninterested on working on my car. In that line of though, do you guys think it will be a good strategy to just remove the vacuum hose, and plug it up with something and not mess with the throttle body at all?
With regard to the flaps? No, doing that doesn't fix them, if they are worn then they are still worn and in place. The hose removal is just a way of diagnosing flap rattle noise.
I have a 2010 mazda 6 with the 2.0 Disi engine (155hp) and was wondering if you know if this engine has issues with the plastic manifold or swirlflaps?Thanks
2002. But here's a hint - clean the engine & manifold as best possible before doing a job like this. You don't want gunk getting in the engine intake ports.
@@CraigsDIY thank you the answer. I just use my car 2 month ago like this. Runs well, working well. If the IM is not so noisy (first i tought the injectors are loud a little bit) and i disconnect the pipe, then i cannot hear ticking noise, the flaps are open ,not moving anymore, i think the chance is very low to get loose a flap or break the bolt isnt it?
I have idle problems and the fuel mixture is too rich. The o2 sensor has been replaced and i replaced the throttle position sensor and IACV myself. The idle is better but still not good. I suspect a a vacuum leak due to a split pcv hose or a failure in the intake manifold gaskets. This job seems like such a pain in the ahole.
Hard to say with the camera. There's not more than ~90 mins of work I'd say if you know what you're doing and don't make mistakes. But I'd allow a good half day 1st time!
Hi, just wondered what the symptoms are of the collapsing pcv hose? As I have the fiesta st that has the same engine, which is really playing up at the moment.
A collapsed hose or fouled valve would lead to long term problems, e.g. the un-vented pressure could create oil leaks, and the un-vented moisture can lead to sludge build-up. Make sure to watch my other video on the PCV components specifically, linked in desc.
I've got a 2005 500 Limited Duratec DOHC V-6. Different intake, electronic throttle body, but might be helpful for other jobs. PCV, injectors, etc. Thanks!!
My son-in-law Mondeo when on start up it revs high then settles checked all round but can hear a hissing around the inlet manifold, could it be the PCV valve or hose or maybe the inlet gaskets. Regards Martyn, great video
Vacuum leak, most likely the PCV hose has split, could be anything else of course. You will have to take off the manifold anyway to get at the PCV, so replace anything suspicious at the same time. See my other video on the PCV components.
Hey there! Was your intake very dirty inside? Do you have any photos of it? Lately I was considering pulling my intake out to clean it as I heard it has good influence on the general runing of the engine itself but I'm little overhelmed by the ammount of job it requres.
Yes it collects oil and carbon from the EGR and the PCV system. The sump at the bottom of the manifold collects the liquid and acts like a catch can. You can empty it and clean it out best you can with degreaser or soap, but it won't make much difference to anything really.
Noob question as I am thinking of trying this as my Mondy is almost identical to yours even down to it being automatic : None of the instructions here and elsewhere mentioned that draining the oil first. Is this necessary? Sorry if it's obvious but this will be the biggest job I've tackled so far
@@CraigsDIY Hello again and thanks for the reply last time. So... everything is off (never again!) and thanks to your tip I was ready for the oil spillage from the manifold but... not how much! There seemed to be an excessive amount to me; way more than yours. I've bought replacement pcv valve and hose in preparation for doing that and the oil seperator is free of excessive sludge. So how much oil should be in the manifold? Flaps are intact but black with crap. It's a 2001 2.0 zetec petrol auto with 80,000 miles on it. Thanks in advance.
I spilled a bit off camera before the shot you see here. There's not much you can do about it, the manifold is basically acting like a catch-can. New valve and clean things up and should be good for another 80,000 :)
Ok thanks. Just another question my runner solenoid needed replacing so I did that but nothing seems to have solved the problem. What's happening is hesitation on the horse power in low revs. it seems to me like I would need a whole new manifold what do you reckon before I start making a purchase on one?
Hesitation can be many things, what makes you so sure it is anything in the manifold? It could be the T-MAP sensor wants cleaning, or possibly a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets, but other possibilities are to do with fuel or ignition.
Well my scanner read p2008 which was inner take manifold runner open circuit bank 1. which was the solenoid so replaced that. so I'm just going by that I may be wrong. But I'll check the stuff you have just mentioned.
Sure but if you fixed it and still have problems it must be something else. Check this article which is a good concise guide to hesitation, bearing in mind you have a MAP system: www.aa1car.com/library/problem_hesitation.htm
If they're a good mechanic then no. It took me less than that and I'm slow. I could do it much faster the next time. Once you know where to look for the bolts it's a very easy job. I could do it in 2 hours without problem.
Haha. I just attempted all this in my 07 Focus. Replaced my swirl flap gaskets, cleaned the gaskets, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the PCV Valve and Hose. Crank up the car and it won't start now. Here's a small vid of me attempting to start the car and rev the engine. It's terrible. :( I'm actually kinda scared since it's my only vehicle and I need it to get to work where I live. I swear I was going by the book..
That's unfortunate. But from your video the engine is starting and running, I take it that it's stalling when you try to let it idle? Does your engine have the electronic throttle body, and if so did you do the TB re-learn proc? FordTechMakuloco has a good overview: th-cam.com/video/ZNxXM75zJOw/w-d-xo.html Otherwise double check you properly reconnected all sensors, check wiring, and see if there are any error codes set.
Dude THANK you for replying. It turns out my helpful neighbor didn't put the hose clamp on the PCV valve on right. When we put the manifold back on, it must have disconnected. Took it apart aaaaall over again and found that. Tried again and this time it started. However, I'm still having issues with rough idle it seems. So far in the past three weeks I have... (some, I thought may have been an indirect fix) -Replaced the IAC valve. -Replaced the fuel filter. -Replaced the V-belt. -Replaced the PCV hose and valve. -Cleaned the throttle body. (Was extremely black and disgusting) -Cleaned the butterfly flaps and replaced the gaskets for them. (Also like above) -Checked over the hoses to find if there was a vacuum leak somewhere. No such luck. Have not tried the smoke method. -Replaced the ignition coils. -Replaced the spark plugs from XP104s, to AR103s gapped at .050, then to stock A104s gapped at factory .051. (No serious difference) When I took the car out for a test drive after getting the new PCV hose properly connected, the car ran much better. I however got an error code from my OBD2 scanner and from the dash. Turns out I forgot to plug up the vacuum line on the manifold like the idiot I am. I plugged it up after the drive, took it for a spin once more, and then the car was back to square one with terrible idle. Tomorrow I will be replacing the IMRC as a last hope to see if that could be the issue. I would think it would be vacuum related based on how it ran better with that vacuum hose off. If that fails, I suppose my last option is to test and/or change the TPS. I saw that you had a video of how to test it, and I've already downloaded Forscan thanks to you, so I'll be giving it a shot here tomorrow after work. I'll come crawling back if I have an issue. Once again, thank you for doing what you do. I'm still new to all of this, so I'm sorry if what I've been doing or say sounds nonsensical. I'll get smart eventually.
Amazon links to relevant products (from the desc):
Manifold gaskets, Ford 1119284 (x4) ~ Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | UK: amzn.to/2cpztel
For more IM related parts see the video on the flaps th-cam.com/video/amRXA22ofds/w-d-xo.html and on the PCV valve/hose th-cam.com/video/-TR4pZdXZpg/w-d-xo.html .
Hi, can you help me to find these parts for a Ford S-Max,2.3 l,160HP, engine? thx Gabe
gabor m nagy Did you find the PCV valve? I'm 99% sure the pcv valve is in the same location in the 2.3l engine.
Did all that still lost off white smoke now got p0130 code
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272380325526
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272380325526
I saved about 500 pounds in repairs on my Volvo V50 with a Duratec engine thanks to you! I had less connectors and less space so the fuel rail had to come off but otherwise your video was spot on for me too!
I hadn't done more than changing oil and brake pads previously, but thanks to your attention to detail I tried it and handled it with not too many issues. For anyone doing this on a V50/S40 you need:
3/8" socket wrench (and sockets).
Two 3/8" extenders, I found that 2 15cm extenders were perfect.
A couple of ball joint (?) sockets (the sockets that you can move around to get the perfect angle)
A magnet "stick" that is bendable.
And please buy an endoscope camera! I gave up and bought a cheap one (30 pounds) that I hooked up to my laptop. I probably saved 2 days of cursing at my car. Putting everything together was super easy with the camera. Plus it gave me a good look at my cylinders and tons of other uses so far.
The reason why Volvo owners needs 3/8" tools is because anything larger will not fit due to the lack of space. I tried and had to go to a hardware store because it just didn't work. I crammed Putty in my sockets instead of the tape method and it worked well. I wouldn't risk using Putty without a camera or good lighting and a mirror though. Just make sure to clean the bolt heads with WD40 or something first so the adhesive has a good mounting surface.
Also, unless you're really strapped for cash please order gaskets for the intake manifold while you're at it. You will realize that this is not a quick or a fun job if you have no previous experience like me. All gaskets cost me about 30 pounds from Volvo, but I could've probably saved cash if I ordered online.
Last thing! The bolt in the bottom was so rusty that it broke off, I tried using WD40 and a torch for two days but the bolt was completely stuck in the engine. I've driven for 2 months "without" a bolt in the bottom without a single issue though. So if you have the same experience, don't worry about it.
Please feel free to reach out for any questions, I can't promise to answer quickly though.
I followed your video step by step and pulled it off. Couldn't have done this without you; thank you for the clear, concise instructions and appropriate usage of swearing during the nasty parts.
hello friend, i'm from brazil, i'm doing this preventive maintenance myself on my ford mondeo, in brazil i didn't find even a video that would teach me how to do this type of service and on your channel it taught me clearly how to perform the service, thank you for your video is subtitled in Portuguese so I could understand all the steps necessary to complete the maintenance the way I wanted, the problem with my car is getting the acceleration changed and it's high and for that reason it has a very high fuel consumption and I already took it to mechanics and they didn't have the slightest desire to fix it so I decided to do the service myself and try to solve the problem thanks for helping me friend your channel is very good for those who have the willpower to get their hands dirty. it cost
Wanted to thank you for posting this video. I removed the swirl flaps on my son's 2007 Ford Focus, and this video was great help. Just have to wait for all the scratches on my arm to heal.
Love your sense of humour have they healed yet. 😁
This engine and engine bay are the cleanest I've ever seen. It's good to see someone put that much care into their car ^-^
Hi! I did the flap replacement job at the weekend.
- My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol)
- I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there.
- The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged)
- There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary.
As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.)
Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound.
In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km .
Thank you very much the video and the instructions!
An excellent and informative video. I used to be a home mechanic years ago mainly doing work on a Triumph 2.5 P.I. and my wife's British Leyland cars! I had not worked on a car for some time, but this video gave me the confidence to have a go again ( it did have its moments though).
I did use 10 mm sockets on the manifold nuts but one slipped and rounded it off after that a used 3/8" and 1/2" these also held the nuts secure when refitting the manifold and i did not have to use tape or blue tack.
Thanks for your help Craig, I did not do the job in 24 minutes like you did on your video !! but I got there in the end and its great not having a car that revs its balls off every time i stop.
Rgds and Thx again, Dom.
Great video, made replacing the PCV pipe and valve on a Fiesta ST150 much less of a horror than it could have been.
When refitting the seven bolts that secure the manifold, I found that it was possible to use a magnetic pickup tool to help guide the wobbly extension bar setup and blu-tac'd in bolt into the right place - saved me a whole load of time, skin and swearing on reassembly.
Hi, how did you remove the bolt next to the power steering reservoir? I can't fit anything in there.
Discovered yesterday that by far the easiest way to access that hidden manifold bolt is to drop the radiator and shroud assembly by 2 inches (50mm). This is easy to do, just get under car and remove the front plastic cover that sits below the rad (4 screws and two clips). Then support the radiator and shroud assembly with a trolley jack and remove the four bolts (2 each side) from the radiator brackets. Go back to the top of the car and remove the plastic screws that hold the front grill in place and lift the grill up out of the way so you can see the radiator. I didn’t remove the grill completely as I didn’t want the hassle of fiddling with the bonnet release mechanism, I just supported the grill with a big chunk of wood I had lying about. Now, working carefully lower the jack slowly and you should see the rad assembly start to move down out of the way. Hey presto after a while you will be able to see that pesky bolt sitting smugly in the manifold. All you have to do now is rig up a combination of socket extensions to cover approx 24 inches so you can go in through the hole and grab that bolt. Top tip, put some grease or silicone sealant in the end of your socket so the bolt doesn’t drop when you withdraw it. PS, If you are changing the pcv hose this will be the least of your worries anyway. I have the cuts and bruises on my arm to prove it. Ford in their wisdom decided to make a hard job even harder by making replacement hoses thicker and therefore making the bore narrower so it won’t go on without a serious fight. Good luck
What year is your car?
i took one out the other day and its a great experience to service all accesories that lie behind it, esp. the pcv valve w/ its seal and its hose
in my case, all bolts holding it were corroded and the dipstick assy was slightly different - this one had two 30 star screws holding it directly to the intake manifold (i need to chissel it & replaced these screws with regular 8 mm screws but w/ a 10 mm head)
to install it back i applied yellow weather strip glue inside the gaskets held in position by the intake and indian head shellack to the intake ports on the head and egr port as well
i have to do it twice bc after the original installation, once i started it, the engine had a bad vacuum leak
so, i took it out again and find out the inner lip of the # 3 intake runner cavity was broken
i fix it with jb weld mixture after 2 hours waiting period to dry out; and made the channel form w/ a rotary dreamel from hf good enough just to hold the same gasket in place
i did clean all debris and put the weather strip again inside the cavity to hold in place the intake seal
i started it right away and the vacum leak dissapeared the same way as it appeared lol
Many thanks for this great content Craig. I have applied what you showed to my 2005 fiesta ST150, which has the same 2.0l duratec. I suspected my vacuum hose which connects to the PCV valve had failed due to a hissing sound and loss of power, which turned out to be the case! It had a small split. I also serviced the valve and checked the engine for sludge which was fine. These engines really are fantastic, considering the car is 12 years old with 120,000 miles! Interestingly the fiesta ST does not have the flaps as standard so I don't have to worry about that. Once again thank you for taking the time to make these videos, you have saved me hundreds of pounds and extended the life of my car. Ross
Hi, how did you remove the bolt next to the power steering reservoir? I can't fit anything in there.
Thank you Craig! My wife's 2006 Ford Focus wagon was throwing
random P0171 "lean bank" codes and then it started stalling at idle. I
followed the instructions in this video, and the 1A Auto Mazda 6 PCV and manifold gasket videos featuring technician Sue. I found a 1.5 inch crack in the PCV hose. Tips:
- Don't drain the coolant unless you need to replace the coolant hose that runs past the PCV hose.
- You can get the bottom bolt on the manifold without lifting the car.
- The Focus manual says remove the fans and shroud. If you have the
correct socket extensions, you don't need to. But I did take off the EGR tube (22mm wrench). I also unbolted the fuel rail and popped the injectors and moved the rail to get better access to the
clip on the PCV hose. I was able to leave the fuel line connected.
- I found a rare-earth magnet that fit in the 10mm socket. No more dropped bolts.
- You need the extra long angled needle-nose that Sue uses like a surgeon's forceps.
- Where Sue just presses on the electrical connector for the Intake
Manifold Runner Control actuator, I had to use a right angle gasket pick
at the top of the latch.
- The PCV valve retainer ring cracks easily. Carefully pry up - and out - at the right locking tab with a thin tool.
Again, thanks!!
Thanks Craig, just did a 07 Ford Focus and your video really helped, specifically the manifold bolt locations, taping bolts to socket, electrical connectors and that nasty PVC hose behind the manifold!!
"and this will hold the little bastard..."
haha.
Also, magnets work well! A little neodynium magnet either inside the socket or a larger one taped to the outside will give enough magnetism.
Great video!
Alex Webber I used a small rare earth magnet on the socket.
The most important part of any how-to-take-it-apart video is how to get the funny hose and electrical clips off without breaking them.
Sometimes I go to local junk yard and learn how they go before I break all of mine.
Thanks a ton dude! Took out the swirl flaps today, this video saved me hours of work! I'd be happy to buy you a beer or two if you have some way of accepting donations. Cheers!
Thanks for the sentiment. I won't say no to free beer. You can use PayPal. bit.ly/2s6q9np
You got it!
@@CraigsDIY got white smoke and p0130 code 1.8 duratec focus 2008
Thank you for your video. It gave me all the information I needed to Change the PCV hose on my daughters ford Mondeo.
Infact would not been able to have done the job without it.
this bolt is "dead easy" and the rest on on the top. Words rarely spoken (in general) let alone for a bolt that is located down-under. thank you for this video.
Great video. Someone may have pointed this out already but, the soft pcv hose may be what caused the oil in your manifold. The hose would collapse causing a build-up of crankcase pressure forcing oil up into the manifold. There should be no oil in a properly functioning manifold system.
Hi, I'm interested in your post. My 07 Focus is drinking oil, I stripped everything as per vid and am now worried the oils rings have gone on the pistons, but it runs fine a part form the smoke! The swirl flaps were totally coated from established oil build up so I'm guessing its been like this for a long time. Is there anything else I could check?
I have looked and looked for a good intake vid for my 07 focus and your vid is the best by far. What a relief. Thank you.
A great video with comprehensive commentary regarding the procedure. Your explanations make it so easy to follow and make it easy to do the job, thank-you.
Just brilliant!! You're the man, Craig!!! Have to do that nasty job but thanks to your excellent video(s) on the subject of deadly swirl flaps I'm feeling quite confident now.
Thanks again!
Great video! It made a tricky job much easier. Fortunately it was just a split PCV pipe so we should be back on the road soon. The car was whistling like a kettle as the split was vibrating.
this an awesome video! I was able. to remove the manifold, clean the TB, oil separator, and change the pcv valve all within 4 - 5 hours. Without this video I would have not been able to find all 8 bolts.
Thanks so much for this video. I thought I had noisy lifters or whatever you call them in these cars. I had no idea about these tumble flaps and the fact they could destroy my engine if they broke away. I tackled my car yesterday and thus and your other video were so much help. There were some minor differences because of a different model year but still a ton of help.
Thanks this worked really well for me. I'm here in america with a 2007 Ford Focus SES 2.0L
Taping the bolts/magnets are a must to not loose them and it was pretty clear removal overall.
I'd say it takes 3-4 hours first time around and way less time next time. THANK YOU!!!
@Craig's DIY Car Thank you so much, this video was a godsend. I needed to remove the intake manifold to get to the cylinder head and I wasn't quite sure how to do it until I saw this amazing video. Thank you so much.
Glad I stumbled across this. I only needed to figure out how the clip on the air intake comes loose, will definitely come back for future reference if needed. Handy for my 07 Focus 1.8.
I have to say this looked very doable, and I tried it today on my Volvo S40 1.8 2006. There's a lot less room than shown here and the middle bottom bolt is a total mare, sat inside a hole.
8 hours later in the miserable sleet and rain I got the thing out, so will have to have another bash to finish tomorrow.
Sorry forgot to mention that the video itself is bang on, well done, I wouldn't have even tried this if I hadn't seen the videos. Just wish my MoT was due in spring or summer, this is no fun working -1, its gonna be a looooong day 2.
I will post some pics on the Volvo UK Forums, it might help someone in the same boat, as the bolts are in a different position to the ford engine.
Any advice for that middle bottom bolt? Just had a try of it before attempting the job and it looks like a right pain in the arse.
No worries now , sorted it. After a frustrating hour of trying to line it up using a torch and a mirror I noticed that if I put my head by the throttle body and looked across I could just about see the bolt head.
FYI, I have the rod and air intake flaps, I removed them just in case of further issues as I dont plan on doing this again, if you need some new ones, let me know.
Awesome awesome video. Thank you so much for taking time to do this. Was really struggling to get the intake M. removed from my Mazda 6. This gave me the confidence that what I was doing was correct and just to persevere!
Great pacing, clear steps and a bit of humour. Brill.
Thanks. Did you find any notable differences on the Mazda L version?
Hey there, used this for my Mazda 5. Thanks so much for the video. I didn't know about that damn center bolt and about to lose my mind when I found your video. My car now has a new PCV and is all back together without any extra bolts and no broken connectors! Cheers mate.
Sorry Craig, only seeing your reply now. There was no noticeable difference at all on the 2004 Mazda 6, 2.0L petrol (L series engine).
The only thing I couldnt do was the connector you call "the brake booster" which goes in to the throttle body I simply could not remove at all - even with the push down to unlock trick in your vid. Dont know if its a different fitting or just seized from age on mine (I suspect seized!)
Anyways, for anyone else struggling with this part, you can just disconnect the brake booster from the other end of the same hose.
Thanks again :)
Really well made and narrated video. Easy to listen too and nicely filmed. Well done and thanks.
Your video is GREAT to Perfection! I Just bought a Volvo C30 that does come with the Duratec 2.0 I live in Brazil but the car is totally imported. Not sure if this engine has the swirl flaps of death! But the engine is consuming a good amount of oil... I believe that is the PCV... Will try this later on! But I want to buy some replacement parts... I do not know how hard is to get this parts... Cheers! Great Vid!! Thanks a Lot
Thx for your video. Performed the operation on a 2006 S-Max. One of the bolt is indeed really a pain in the a.. to remove and install 😅
Great video! I'm sure I've got a split PCV hose hence the reason for watching you guide. I've almost got the manifold off but have just spent around 30 minutes just trying to locate the last bolt nearest the power steering pump and still haven't managed to locate it and get a socket on it. Do you have any tips for locating it?
Thanks in advance
Awesome vid! This video helped me out a bunch when I went to replace the PCV hose for my car, a Ford Focus SE 2007.
The only real differences that I encountered were that the wiring wasn't routed across the intake manifold, instead it was routed round the front, so it was mostly out of the way and a little more convenient for me.
5:13 can someone please tell me what the fitting insert is called or where I can get on I’ve bought a manifold and need that collar
Excellent video, thanks for sharing! Have the same job coming up on my wife's 2009 Fusion... I don't think these have changed too much.
Just wanted to say a huge thank you - used this video to great effect to remove the inlet manifold from my 2005 Fiesta ST (2.0L Duratec). Wasn't exactly the same due to the fitment in a fiesta but close enough that this video was really useful - especially the position of all the bolts. Thanks!
Mine is a 2008 Duratec, which looks pretty different. But your videos are extraordinary. Cheers!
Great video. It made me confident I can do this repair... and a I did it. Two things: duratec on mondeo mk4 160K km are also worn and second: on mk4 you need to remove the injection rail otherwise the intake cannot slip out of the bonnet.
Cheers. Which engine does your Mk4 have?
It's a 2.0 145hp one. And I am tracking an issue which appears to be unfixable. ☺️
what do you have to set on the engine before actually taking the inlet manifold off?
Thanks for this guide, managed to get the inlet off my ST150 to change the PCV hose that had split!
Many thanks for a great video Craig it has given me the confidence to remove these pesky flaps and rod from my 2004 66k miles 2L Mondeo.
However before I start I want to disconnect the actuator pushrod from the flap rod and compare engine performance over a couple of days without the flaps working. (Not happy with just leaving the vacuum hose off)
2 issues come to mind though:
a) If the pushrod isn’t designed to be removed from the actuator how should it be secured.
b) Will the rod need to be secured in the ‘open’ position to prevent the flaps closing / working its way out.
Many thanks in advance for any further advice and also to everyone else who has contributed to this worrying topic.
a - To disconnect the pushrod you really need to take the actuator off the IM, I'm not sure you can flex the arm away enough (or you might break it trying). If you do that you are disconnecting the vacuum hose so might as well just do it at the other end.
b - The flaps sit relaxed in the open position, the actuator under vacuum (at idle) closes them.
@@CraigsDIY Ah I thought I might have got away with just removing the actuator to disconnect the pushrod-flap rod connection then refitting back on the IM.
As for the Rod I assume as the fit is so tight it won’t work its way out on a running engine after the above. Many thanks for replying so quickly.
Great video Craig, and your sense of humor despite the pain of a job it was! I have a Volvo S40 2007 which I believe it has the same kind of engine as ford 1.8L petrol. I suspect PCV valve issues however is there any accurate tests to be done to make sure pcv needs replacement before going into such tedious surgery procedure? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thumbs up for your videos! Thanks!!
same engine and manifold is in the 2012 Ford Transit Connect XLT
At 14:38 what is the thing with a tube coming out of it under the throttle body? Thanks
It's the actuator for the flaps.
I am planning to remove the front clip as it's just headlights and 6 bolts. Do you think this is worth it to make the job easier?
You, my friend, are a life saver.
Absolutely amazing how clean the inlet valves are, valves on direct injection engines are carbond up by 30 thousand miles! Worst thing they ever did on engine's direct injection !!
Hi, I dropped a deep socket inside that friggin blind hole in the manifold, do you think i still have a shot to access that bolt?
As you can see it's really not that difficult once you get it off!
Nice video. Good practical advice. Wish you made it a week earlier - I had to to the same job.
Hello, I have a mk3 2006 1.8 Duratec petrol, but my car was rejected at the annual inspection, too high CO and a lot of blue smoke and therefore also oil consumption.
Now my question is, what could I do to find out where the oil consumption comes from and the high Co value?
The inspector said the engine is probably worn out and needs an overhaul, what do you think?
Mileage is 255,000 km, I live in Europe. Thanks
Thank you so much for this. I was able to replace my split PCV hose in '04 Mondeo using your video alone. Well okay, I referred to Haynes manual just to double check the torque settings and that's all.. but you've covered everything perfectly. Thank you, thank you, and thank you !!!!!
hi, do you have high oil consumption? , I see your upper ventilation tube comes in front of the air damper in the pipe circuit after the air filter, at the focus it is already in the air filter box, I'm wondering ... if you do it like you do in my focus, will oil be sucked out through the upper crankcase pipe? ,
I seem to be struggling to undo the bolt by the steering pump ,everything seems to be in the way other than all bolts are out. Do you undo the bolt from the top or the bottom? I cannot see a way to get at it.
I think it's shown here at 12:02 - the far left one. All from the top. There is another unrelated bolt near the PS pump that you can mistake for the manifold bolt, use a strong flashlight and pay careful attention that you're undoing the right one. The manifold bolts are all through their plastic surrounds, use the graphic I did at 11:00 for reference.
Hi, Thanks for the reply. I managed to undo it shortly after I posted the email. All going well just have to bolt it all back up today. Rgds Dom.
Hey there. Stupid question: when removing the dip stick, did you drain the oil beforehand? Or does it not leak out with oil in the pan? And I suppose coolant wasn't drained either? Cheers
No it's well above the level of the oil. No need to touch coolant.
Does the 2014 Ford Transit Connect have swirl flaps in the intake sounds like mine have a bad engine knock and the noise is heard louder with a listening device and the intake manifold.
Craig thanks man.this was the one I was after for so long..much appreciated. many thanks
Hello Craig, I now own a 2005 Focus with a 2.0L DURATEC (173k miles) and I need to replace the intake manifold gasket. Your video on the intake removal is very helpful, you seem to have video capture and editing abilities that are very helpful compared to other videos on TH-cam. What year is the car your working on in this video? My Focus seems to have more room in front of the intake after I drop the fan assembly. My vehicle also has the long life air filter assembly so that is why I'm wondering what year is your car in this video? Your DURATEC also has a common ing coil pack with plug wires. My version has the coil on top of each plug. I'm just trying to understand the differences between these two powertrains.
Thanks, KPO.
2002. It's one of the earliest Duratec HE implementations. Thanks for the comments.
Hey Kevin, I've got a 2005 Focus with 2.0L and I don't know if it's because of how dirty the engine bay appears to be or what but did you have any issues moving your intake manifold when you went to remove it? I've just undone the 7 bolts, I've also gotten the one from the underside and it won't budge at all.
Hi. Will this guide help with a Ford Ikon 16 2006?
Could the noise from the air swirl flappers be described as sounding like a small rock bouncing around inside the engine?
Maybe. It is at the intake ports not the engine tho.
I'm extraordinary lazy and uninterested on working on my car. In that line of though, do you guys think it will be a good strategy to just remove the vacuum hose, and plug it up with something and not mess with the throttle body at all?
With regard to the flaps? No, doing that doesn't fix them, if they are worn then they are still worn and in place. The hose removal is just a way of diagnosing flap rattle noise.
Hm, I'd imagined that doing so they'll stop moving and will not wear anymore, and thus will not break.
Great video, really helped me taking out the flaps on my 2002 Mondeo!
thanks for the instructions, followed and fixed my mondeo, worked great.
Sir what we have clean egr with intercooler and intake mainfold what it is correct these open at same time tell me about it
I see now how you close the clamp, I was looking viseo how to open/close it. thx a lot. 23:44
Where did you buy them flaps?
I have a 2010 mazda 6 with the 2.0 Disi engine (155hp) and was wondering if you know if this engine has issues with the plastic manifold or swirlflaps?Thanks
what year is your car. it's really clean
2002. But here's a hint - clean the engine & manifold as best possible before doing a job like this. You don't want gunk getting in the engine intake ports.
What is happening if i just choose the lazy way and unplug the vacum pipe?
You're not fixing anything. The flaps will sit 'open' but still at risk of falling apart. And you will have a vacuum leak.
@@CraigsDIY thank you the answer. I just use my car 2 month ago like this. Runs well, working well. If the IM is not so noisy (first i tought the injectors are loud a little bit) and i disconnect the pipe, then i cannot hear ticking noise, the flaps are open ,not moving anymore, i think the chance is very low to get loose a flap or break the bolt isnt it?
I have idle problems and the fuel mixture is too rich. The o2 sensor has been replaced and i replaced the throttle position sensor and IACV myself. The idle is better but still not good. I suspect a a vacuum leak due to a split pcv hose or a failure in the intake manifold gaskets. This job seems like such a pain in the ahole.
The Focus I have here in America does not have that much room like you have to get to this stuff and some stuff is different from yours
Hi! Can you help me? Not found the sensor MAF on mi car. Is Focus sport 2007 Duratec 2.0. Please help me locate. thanks a lot.
Could you do a video on exhaust manifold too?
Very helpful video bud. Way easier to do it with yoour help. Thanks
how long did it take to change it? 3 hours?
Hard to say with the camera. There's not more than ~90 mins of work I'd say if you know what you're doing and don't make mistakes. But I'd allow a good half day 1st time!
Nice video, will mk2 pcv valve fit in mk 2.5 1.8l petrol? Can someone help me with this pls
what is that grey cap on the top right of manifold?
Hi, just wondered what the symptoms are of the collapsing pcv hose? As I have the fiesta st that has the same engine, which is really playing up at the moment.
A collapsed hose or fouled valve would lead to long term problems, e.g. the un-vented pressure could create oil leaks, and the un-vented moisture can lead to sludge build-up. Make sure to watch my other video on the PCV components specifically, linked in desc.
I've got a 2005 500 Limited Duratec DOHC V-6. Different intake, electronic throttle body, but might be helpful for other jobs. PCV, injectors, etc. Thanks!!
Explanation very clear and accurate.
My son-in-law Mondeo when on start up it revs high then settles checked all round but can hear a hissing around the inlet manifold, could it be the PCV valve or hose or maybe the inlet gaskets. Regards Martyn, great video
Vacuum leak, most likely the PCV hose has split, could be anything else of course. You will have to take off the manifold anyway to get at the PCV, so replace anything suspicious at the same time. See my other video on the PCV components.
Thanks will let you know how we get on :)
Can you tell me where I can but the PCV hose from, been looking all over but with no luc
Hey there! Was your intake very dirty inside? Do you have any photos of it? Lately I was considering pulling my intake out to clean it as I heard it has good influence on the general runing of the engine itself but I'm little overhelmed by the ammount of job it requres.
Yes it collects oil and carbon from the EGR and the PCV system. The sump at the bottom of the manifold collects the liquid and acts like a catch can. You can empty it and clean it out best you can with degreaser or soap, but it won't make much difference to anything really.
Is this engine similar to the earlier Mazda 3 2005-2005?
The Duratec HE and Mazda LF are the same.
british people make the best fucking youtube videos.
I'm sure they do. Craig isn't British though.
Paul Howard He probably descended from Britain
Nice video, very well explained and detailed, thank you my friend!
How can i take out of intake manifold on 06 ford fusion .can help me .please
Is of same process on 06 ford fusion sr????
Brilliant video. I watched the whole thing and I dont even have that car!
Noob question as I am thinking of trying this as my Mondy is almost identical to yours even down to it being automatic :
None of the instructions here and elsewhere mentioned that draining the oil first. Is this necessary?
Sorry if it's obvious but this will be the biggest job I've tackled so far
You won't touch oil.
@@CraigsDIY Hello again and thanks for the reply last time.
So... everything is off (never again!) and thanks to your tip I was ready for the oil spillage from the manifold but... not how much! There seemed to be an excessive amount to me; way more than yours. I've bought replacement pcv valve and hose in preparation for doing that and the oil seperator is free of excessive sludge. So how much oil should be in the manifold? Flaps are intact but black with crap.
It's a 2001 2.0 zetec petrol auto with 80,000 miles on it.
Thanks in advance.
I spilled a bit off camera before the shot you see here. There's not much you can do about it, the manifold is basically acting like a catch-can. New valve and clean things up and should be good for another 80,000 :)
Hi Is this manifold the same process to remove on a Ford focus ghia 2.0ltr mk2?
Yes barring small details.
Ok thanks. Just another question my runner solenoid needed replacing so I did that but nothing seems to have solved the problem. What's happening is hesitation on the horse power in low revs. it seems to me like I would need a whole new manifold what do you reckon before I start making a purchase on one?
Hesitation can be many things, what makes you so sure it is anything in the manifold? It could be the T-MAP sensor wants cleaning, or possibly a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets, but other possibilities are to do with fuel or ignition.
Well my scanner read p2008 which was inner take manifold runner open circuit bank 1. which was the solenoid so replaced that. so I'm just going by that I may be wrong. But I'll check the stuff you have just mentioned.
Sure but if you fixed it and still have problems it must be something else. Check this article which is a good concise guide to hesitation, bearing in mind you have a MAP system: www.aa1car.com/library/problem_hesitation.htm
Great video, where did you get the intake flaps?
Ford.
How many houres it takes ? My mechanic told me that Everything take over 5 houres?
If they're a good mechanic then no. It took me less than that and I'm slow. I could do it much faster the next time. Once you know where to look for the bolts it's a very easy job. I could do it in 2 hours without problem.
Very helpfull but many things are different on my Ford focus 1.8l flexifuel 2007 . And less space than a mondeo .
Thank you so much for this video!! It really came in handy and guided me through the replacement. Those bolts can be some real buggers 😂
Is this an 1.8 16v, or 2.0 16v engine(2000-2002) or both?
Both.
Craig's DIY Car
Thanks Craig👍🚙
great video from a professional
Well done mate, really articulate.
Haha. I just attempted all this in my 07 Focus. Replaced my swirl flap gaskets, cleaned the gaskets, cleaned the throttle body, and replaced the PCV Valve and Hose. Crank up the car and it won't start now. Here's a small vid of me attempting to start the car and rev the engine. It's terrible. :( I'm actually kinda scared since it's my only vehicle and I need it to get to work where I live. I swear I was going by the book..
Oh, I guess it didn't put the link down. Here it is vimeo.com/219625817
That's unfortunate. But from your video the engine is starting and running, I take it that it's stalling when you try to let it idle? Does your engine have the electronic throttle body, and if so did you do the TB re-learn proc? FordTechMakuloco has a good overview: th-cam.com/video/ZNxXM75zJOw/w-d-xo.html
Otherwise double check you properly reconnected all sensors, check wiring, and see if there are any error codes set.
Dude THANK you for replying. It turns out my helpful neighbor didn't put the hose clamp on the PCV valve on right. When we put the manifold back on, it must have disconnected. Took it apart aaaaall over again and found that. Tried again and this time it started. However, I'm still having issues with rough idle it seems.
So far in the past three weeks I have... (some, I thought may have been an indirect fix)
-Replaced the IAC valve.
-Replaced the fuel filter.
-Replaced the V-belt.
-Replaced the PCV hose and valve.
-Cleaned the throttle body. (Was extremely black and disgusting)
-Cleaned the butterfly flaps and replaced the gaskets for them. (Also like above)
-Checked over the hoses to find if there was a vacuum leak somewhere. No such luck. Have not tried the smoke method.
-Replaced the ignition coils.
-Replaced the spark plugs from XP104s, to AR103s gapped at .050, then to stock A104s gapped at factory .051. (No serious difference)
When I took the car out for a test drive after getting the new PCV hose
properly connected, the car ran much better. I however got an error code from my OBD2 scanner and from the dash. Turns out I forgot to plug up the vacuum line on the manifold like the idiot I am. I plugged it up after the drive, took it for a spin once more, and then the car was back to square one with terrible idle.
Tomorrow I will be replacing the IMRC as a last hope to see if that could be the issue. I would think it would be vacuum related based on how it ran better with that vacuum hose off. If that fails, I suppose my last option is to test and/or change the TPS. I saw that you had a video of how to test it, and I've already downloaded Forscan thanks to you, so I'll be giving it a shot here tomorrow after work.
I'll come crawling back if I have an issue. Once again, thank you for doing what you do. I'm still new to all of this, so I'm sorry if what I've been doing or say sounds nonsensical. I'll get smart eventually.