Hello Craig, If you have it could you post the actual Ford part number for the flap assemblies? The part on the link does not have the Ford P/N. I tried to capture it from the video but want to be sure.Thanks KPO.
I replaced the thermostat in my 2005 Duratec 2.0 16valve and while at it i removed all the swirl flaps in the manifold with no issues to the running of the engine. It runs perfect. So saved myself a few quid.. I was told to do this by a ford mechanic and he was rite.. Took 3hrs start to finish. Was easier to remove the radiator and that gave full access to everything. Great video..
Bought a Focus CC last weekend as of the date stamp of my comment... Had it 3 days. Engine light comes on. P2008 faulty code. Intake solenoids were shot. Bought new ones. Solved. However..... I stubbled onto this video when I was investigating the solenoid issue. And boy I'm glad I did. You just saved me a few hundred pounds. Out of curiosity I decided to take a look at the intake manifold. (I had the bonnet open for the solenoids so hey) I think I was very lucky... 2 out of the four flaps were about to fail catastrophically!! Entirely new manifold is on its way. Thank you.
Hi! I did the replacement job at the weekend. - My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol) - I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there. - The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged) - There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary. As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.) Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound. In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km . Thank you very much the video and the instructions!
05' Mazda Tribute 2.3. ran 30k miles with it no problems. Went to 9 shops nobody could figure out until a guy who a focus noticed the sound immediately. Fixing tomorrow
It happened to my co-workers car. Local Ford dealer tried to chrage $450 for doing manifold replacement. Very informative video. Great tutorials. Thanks.
Man you are genius, you saved my brain.I was going to be insane cause of this sound, i thought that the problem was timing chain or lifters but you resolved my problem! Thanky you so much! We are talking about mazda 2
@@leonbradshaw127 I've been reading that specifically the ST150 doesn't have the swirl flaps, seems to be the exception. I'm not sure though, do you know for sure?
I have a 2.0L 2005 ford focus and took the intake manifold off and removed the flaps of death. It's an arduous task with many sensors that don't want to come loose and none of them are the same! So each one has to be done differently. Most of them require pushing in the middle of the plastic electronic part and pulling, but not all. Like me, you will have to look at them and figure out how to release them. Ok, some hints on other things: 1. Consider replacing the PCV valve and put in a new PCV hose. These are not cheap if you get the proper parts (mine cost $15 for the PCV valve and $28 for the hose). Normally you cut the PCV hose off to release the intake manifold and then replace it, because getting a pliers down to the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the PCV valve is an enormously difficult task. Just cut and replace. The PCV valve has a plastic clip holder that you must not break! If you do, you must buy the entire oil separator to get a new one and these were $33 on Ebay. To pry off the clip, you need to remove the oil separator which is held on by 8 bolts, two of which you must have an 8mm wrench to release and the other 6 you can use a ratchet and socket. Then use a small small screwdriver and try to pry the clip off - some people use a knife. Be careful! Clean the oil separator with brake clean. Then put the oil separator back. At this point, my suggestion is to connect the PCV hose on the bottom (hose clamp) but on the top- install the PCV valve on the PCV hose (hose clamp) and you must leave the plastic clip on the PCV valve then when you get the intake manifold on the car you can then just press the PCV valve on to the oil separator and then using the long rod that held the flaps of death just press down on the plastic clip to snap it on. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to put the PCV hose on the PCV valve by using a pliers on the hose clamp with such limited space. 2. Clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. You need an electronics parts cleaner for this - I used CRC Electronics Part Cleaner (wal-mart). The MAP sensor is located near the bottom of the intake manifold, and is held on with a 20 Star screw. So do it while off the vehicle. th-cam.com/video/icgaLiEoohc/w-d-xo.html 3. While the intake manifold is off the car, clean the MAF sensor with a special MAF cleaner. The MAF requires special care, so handle it such. It's held on by two 20 star screws. th-cam.com/video/U9PT8ZN3TXI/w-d-xo.html 4. Clean the throttle body - and there is a special cleaner for this also. Wal-Mart has the MAF and Throttle body cleaner in one package in their auto parts. 5. Use poster putty or some other stuff that will seal the plug hole where that square rod was. 6. Replace all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold while off the car. So much easier! 7. Clean all the sensor connectors with the electronics part cleaner. 8. Replace the manifold gaskets with new ones cause you don't want a leak there! 9. The manifold intake runner control (MIRC) is basically useless at this point, but the electronics need it. The control has a vacuum hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold - make sure you replace this. The second hose goes goes to the vacuum actuator that controlled the flaps of death. What I did was connect this hose to the plug on the right side of the MIRC, because that hose now serves no purpose, neither does the actuator. 10. Use a torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts at 13 ft lbs. All other bolts or screws snug. 11. You need to reset you electronics to get the car to work right. After doing all this work my car just died - not holding an idle! Disconnect the battery. Reconnect. Turn on ignition switch (not to start!, just to run) and let it sit for about 30-45 seconds then turn off. Try starting. It took me some time and feathering the throttle to get it to run, but then bingo, the computer saw the changes and fixed itself and the car's idle was ok.
Thank you so much for this video I recently replaced the pcv valve on a Mazda 5 hoping to reduce the oil consumption and this video with the manifold replacement video was a godsend. The reason why this video was so important is because I removed the swirl flap actuator during removal of the manifold. I then put it back with the swirl flaps closed and thought nothing of it but looking at these videos again I wondered if I had the rod 90 degrees out and the flaps should be open.. Sure enough it was and the actuator wasn't doing anything. Luckily only driven the car a few miles before my conscience got the better of me. Luckily you can remove the actuator whilst the manifold is still on the car. I checked my swirl flaps and they all seemed to be in good condition with minimal movement so I've left them in. Time will tell if that was a good decision or not! Car is a 2010 Mazda 5 with 100k miles on it so about 160k Kms. Thanks again for these videos 🙏
Hi very nicely done video! We have an 07 Focus for 11 years and it has been amazing. The big dirty secret is to do ALL your own work. This means proper tools learning as much as you can and getting down and dirty. Oil changes are a must with high quality oil and filter. We just began to notice this clicking down at the end of the intake. Beyond a doubt this is what it is. I plan to inspect shortly and probably just remove the flaps. Great work!
Well mate! Here in Canada they dont sell the flaps separtly, i have to buy the hole shebang and the pcv valve comes with the hose and the box. Nice clear to the point video. Also the one for removing the intake manifold. Thanks.
Just did the pcv job on my Volvo S40 1.8 from 2005 which has the same engine. I inspected the flaps and found that there were no bushings and not much wear. Vehicle has 150.000 km and i have only owned it for 2 years so i don't know if someone has done the changed the flaps, though i doubt it very much. Great video btw, very helpful.
Same engine different country. I also removed my flaps with zero problems. All of my modifications have actually gotten me and extra 2mpg. I removed the flaps and rod but replaced the actuator so that there is no check engine light and no botched vacuum leaks. I have also eliminated the EGR valve, installed an intake kit and an aluminum throttle body. I am going to soon install the manifold off of the 2.3L SUV that has runner control and use the swirl flap circuit to control it. This will give me dual length runner and that is far more effective for power and fuel economy than the swirl flaps.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Would like to see more about upgrading to the 2.3 L manifold and converting the IMRC's to the old control. Won't you need a re-map?
You will not need to remap as in change the MAP sensor arc. When I install it I will use the control circuit of the old tumble flaps to operate the IMRC. Once I get a tuner, the one I am going to get supports altering how that circuit functions and I can set the RPMs that the IMRC changes at. I want to see how it will operate on a stock tune though before I change it. I'll keep you updated.
Can you give us some more info about the actuator? What did you replace it with in order to avoid the CEL. I've been thinking of removing the flaps myself, but I wouldn't want to have a CEL always on.
Thanks for the video. Yesterday I removed the swirl flaps on my 2.0 ltr focus but it did not have the metal carrier guides, which I assume is the latest manifold version? However the swirl flaps had excessive movement so they were taken out. The rod appears to be in good condition without wear, which I will keep hold of. I also replaced the psv hose (£43!) which was split very badly when I consider its only covered 76k.The psv valve was also replaced. During the first road test it doesn't rev independently when stationary and is smooth when changing gear as the throttle pick up used to cause slight knocking due to pick up lag. Just to mention on the focus it appears a little tighter when removing the manifold as I found tilting it was my only hope. All in took over 5hrs as removal was hard especially the centre bolt. Thanks again for the clear instructions and the tip on taping the socket to the bolts on reassembly. Cheers
My daughters Focus had something like that, i got tired of trying to fix them so i just removed them and plugged all the holes with JB Weld. She drove it for another year with no issues then traded it in.
nothing on the engine. But new shocks after 350000, new dual mass flywheel after 300000, and the usual bits like brakes etc that all cars go thru. High quality long life car that doesnt necessarily "feels" so. Mine is an ex Danish police car, there´s something done to the engine, faster than the V6 version anyway. One interesting thing is that the multilink back suspension seems to last forever though. Never done anything to tht suspension in all years. And we live on the countryside...
Hello, this comment was awhile back but still relevant; What do you do with the solenoid that attaches to the intake manifold that engages the actuator? Did it throw off a CEL code removing it?
Years ago I had this problem with my duratec 2.0 focus...I bought an intake manifold for an Escape 2.3L application. The escape manifold don't have flaps. Still mounted the solenoids and actuator but just didn't hook up the linkage as there was none. Worked fine for me for 100k miles.
thank you so very much sir you gave me hope of life I have this very issue on my neck at the moment and cannot source the intake used or new to save my life the wear on it is significant and something needs to be done immediately... I will look into your links >>Good narrating skills by the way....
Just changed the whole intake manifold on my 2008 focus 2.0 titanium (UK) for one out of a fiesta st150 runs much better thanks, virtually a straight swap but without the swirl flaps and fitted a new PCV valve & roose motorsport PCV hose thanks for posting these videos Craig they're really helpful 😀👍🏻
Hello Craig, just watched your Duratec manifold R&R video and now this one on fixing the swirl flaps. Interesting suggestion to just not re-install the flaps due to cost and take the little fuel economy hit. I may consider that after inspection once the manifold is removed. I mentioned before you seem to have good video capture and editing abilities, it really makes for a high production value, especially with the post recorded voice over. I think I'm going to try that also on my next repair job. Thanks, KPO
Kris Lynette I’m currently doing the delete method on my 2002 Mondeo 2.0 Duratec HE as my flaps are around 5x as bad of movement as this video after inspection tonight. It has taken me 3 months to get around to it as I suspected flaps to be the cause and had to weigh up options before jumping the gun. Will update you tomorrow once car is together and another update after a week or so with a flap delete. Note I’m not that experienced with cars and the removal task alone took nearly 6 hours with several 1/4 socket extensions written off as the 3/4 set doesn’t fit where bolts are
Okay, so I finished it earlier on today, the rod was an absolute prick to remove! And there oddly was only a plastic casing with all this ground up looking plastic in centre between inlets. I had to clean all of it down including between inlets were rod was due to how worn it was for the epoxy to grip. I filled every hole the rod went through and left the agitator on attached to side but left the white clip piece out as well so no cel code was thrown either. Initial test drive so far so much more responsive, picks up speed faster. I have noticed a slight delay or something along those lines if giving gas backing of n full gas straight away. Will see what it’s like for the next few days but seems to be running beautiful. Have not noticed a decrease in fuel consumption yet but will be able to tell later on down the line. Give it a go if you haven’t already. Also massive thanks to this channel. Has helped me through my journey with alot of swearing i got there in the end lol
My car had 70,000 miles on it and the flaps were not worn at all, they still fit tightly in the housings. I removed them anyway, the car runs just as well as it used to, maybe even slightly better. I also installed an oil catch can because the oil seperator on these cars suck too much oil into the inlet for my liking. Might be why the flaps had so little wear in my case.
Another great video. I removed mine completely as taking the manifold off was hard enough, I wasn't doing it twice lol. Never noticed a change in fuel consumption or running of the engine. As you said, some report a slight increase in consumption and some even say there's reduced power/torque in the lower rpm but I didn't really notice anything.
The st150 version didn't have swirl flaps out the factory so I think removing is probably the best way, another great video though shows exactly how to make it like new again
Thanks for the great videos. I fix my Bad Flaps today on my 2003 Mondeo. I remove them and the car runs great. Thx again Craig! :) BR/ Micke from sweden.
My 2005 Mercury Mariner 2.3 had this issue, but in my case, Ford had relocated the flaps deeper into the manifold and they are sealed into the main body of the manifold, which is completely sealed. The only way to solve the rattle was to replace the entire manifold with a new one from Ford; about $200.00 U.S. at the time. The engine ran fine but sounded like it was falling apart.
Those are called IMRCs (runner controls) and aid with the airflow, some manifolds have both. Honestly $200 for a brand new manifold assembly is not the worst outcome.
Hello l have a 2005 petrol 2.0 Ford Focus recently whenever I park my car in direct sunlight when I start the engine l am hearing unusual noise from the dashboard around the car radio area
Well this video give me all the info on how these flap work...so as for me in central america parts are expensive so i disable the the flap system and uplug the solenoid and tube....leaving all flap open....bc the electronic throttle control the system as a regular car....car run super smooth and lots torque is nice and i get a extra mpg...first it was bugging and starving for air especially when i slow down and accelerate....
Thank you so much for making this video. I've noticed this exact noise from my motor for quite a long time and you have supplied me with some valuable information.
Tremendous stuff ! I have a 2010 Focus Mk2 with 2.0L Duratec engine. It seems like Ford gave up the flaps, and placed a "Runner Control Valve" which seems to do the same job, and is very easy to replace (Ford #BS7E-9J559-AA).
I thought the valves controls the flaps ? I just bought the valves because I have the P2008 code on my 2007 ford focus, but now I am thinking of de-flaping it which would make the valve pointless. (I guess the good thing is it'll shut off the check engine light)
Same shit like on BMW Diesel, the Swirl flaps gets loosen and they fall into the intake valves and damage the engine. The intake manifold is built like this, plastic, the swirl flaps are of Metal. Best way to protect the engine is to remove the swirl flaps, the engine will still running good and withhout any issues.
My 2004 Focus with 2.3 PZEV engine has two vacuum tubes and two IMRC solenoids. But otherwise the manifold looks very similar. I'm sure it's a different Ford part number though.
Was doing a pcv valve on my Mazda and noticed the swirl flaps were stiff to turn, jammed them open by putting a screw in the solenoid side, did not reinstall solenoid so far so good
nah did it with the intake manifold off, was going to pull them out and fill the hole but it was stuck in there. to do the pcv valve on them you have to pull the intake off so though why not do some preventative maintenance, no check engine light unplugged it from the solenoid and actuator
I know this is going waaay back. But i have a 2007 Ford Focus ST woth 2.3L Duratec and it seems these inserts show up as a part# in Canada/US. I may order rhese doe the Mondeo feom the UK. But I would think a 2.3 Duratec with both IMRC and IMTV would be universally indentical especially if the parts made in the US?! Long and short, I'm hoping these will work on my '07 Focus 2.3. Amazing step by step by the way! I will be following this when I do the job!!
@CraigsDIY Thanks for the reply! I'm leaning towards your repair vs...E-Bay new but knock-off intake...as tempting as that is. I doubt you still have the car, but did your intake repair hold up?
Hi, if you were to remove the rod and flaps entirely, would that create a problem with the idle? Do you have to disconnect a fuse or some electronic part maybe?
Hi I wanted to know the same .....all I did was disconnect the 2 intake manifold solenoid and unplug 2 tube on each of it....and it ran super find the throttle idle as a normal ...I get a extra mpg vehicle role smooth when. Let off the gas... The drive mood is just so fine for me.....first it was bugging I could have heard the starving for air.....now it ran will and take off with confident.... I have a 2.3 ford fusion 2008...
Excellent videos. I am the the US yet many things cross to my 2006 Focus ST with the 2.3l duratec. I just removed the manifold and have removed the rod and flaps. On another TH-cam video the guy fills the holes between the runners with epoxy. Is this necessary?
I completed this job myself with the help of a friend a few years ago, buying a complete set of new flaps, and had ordered a new but stupidly mis-measured the length of the original and in the end turned my (already quite damaged) rod around and threaded it through from the other end. I now want to re-do it with a new rod, but I'm interested if anyone can provide the exact dimensions. I bought one that was 4 x 4 mm which seemed to fit ok
I measured mine as 3.5 mm square, which is not a standard stock size, and I couldn't find any stainless rod that would suit. I'm pretty sure 4 mm sq won't fit the flaps or bearings. If you could find the right size you would just buy a meter or so and cut it to length. It should be a high hardness stainless, not 304 or 316.
only thing I'd mention, when refitting the actuator you didn't mention the position of the flaps (or did you!). I've a feeling mine weren't correctly aligned as I refitted the actuator afterwards. Might have to come off again to check!!!
300.000kms mk4 petrol 2.0 Duratec Mondeo owner here . I am experiencing elevated IATs when not in WOT, sometimes elevating up to 70-90c !! No strange sound from the manifold though, is there any chance stuck flaps could be an issue ?
i got an 03 mondy with 350,000+ km on the clock, apparently engine was replaced or repaired at around 180, any scratch i get on the car i just cover up with spraypaint of a similar color, hoping to not need to replace anything other than the gearbox again any time soon so im thinking a good ol delete would be best
That price for the full manifold is a bargain compared to all the individual parts. Just the vacuum actuator was $97 US then there is the solenoid, and then the rods, flaps, bushings, vacuum lines etc.
loved your video! we just bought a 2010 ford focus and found out the actuator isnt attached to the car, the previous owner took the rod out and the flaps. do you know we can eliminate the p2004 code by attaching an actuator and attaching the vacuum hose to it, or splice the vacuum hose to another vacuum line? you would be doing us a great service if you happen to know the answer to this question, thanks in advance!
I think it's sufficient to just connect the electronics up, if the PCM sees the right electrical circuit it should be happy, it's not sophisticated enough to actually know what's happening. If the existing hose is available you could use it and just leave the actuator working nothing, on that note check the old mod sealed up the hose nipple on the manifold.
@@sdbw1990 going to take this on next weekend It looks like... my intake flaps are super loud sounds like a diesel and low rpms. Every time I drive it now it makes me nervous after seeing these catastrophic failures.
@@chrisl2090 I did this a little while ago. Went pretty good. I used jb weld to fill in the holes between cylinders. Car still running well years later!
@@sdbw1990 I appreciate the reply. I have 248k miles on this 05 and I dont think the flaps have ever been looked at. Looking forward to a nice clean and none clattered idle..
You would have a vacuum leak unless you seal the rod hole as explained, and ideally the inside holes too to keep the ports separated. People have done this and report no problems. In theory the engine will be slightly out of tune and less efficient at idle and low revs but it doesn't seem to make much noticeable difference.
Have 2007 2.0 and thought all the racket at the top of the motor was the chain getting loose at 250,000 miles. I did not know these had the flaps but apparently they do and when I shut off the vacuum the racket stopped. Watched a different video ( not this one ) where guy removed all the flaps and re- installed. When working on broken thermostat bolts recently I had the manifold off and decided to pull the flaps out. I took the vacuum actuator off of the end and using needle- nose pliers pulled the steel rod out. I used needle - nose plus clamped vise grip pliers over the needle- nose pliers so that the vise grips clamped them tighter, then hammered on the vise grips to knock the steel rod out. A lot of baked sludge made it tough and after moving the rod about half way I sprayed with Gumout and tapped it back in most of the way to help loosen the rod in the flaps. After pulling the rod out I then pried the flap mounts out, popped the flaps out of the mounts, and re installed the mounts to hold the gaskets in place. Put vacuum actuator back on with the little plastic ball piece that moves the rod. Everything works fine without any flaps as far as driving goes.
The flaps 'relax' open so you can stop them being turned into position by disconnecting the hose, as explained in the beginning of the video. But it won't stop the vibration and grit from wearing on the steel rod, you might slow it down at best.
At least Ford sells the flaps. There arte other manifacturers with the same issues where you'll only get the complete manifold for purchase. And it's not like they will sell it for a good price. They always want to make them golden.
Changed mine on my ghia x mondy. You don't really need them as it's only there to keep things smooth at low rpm. I will be getting another manifold and remove them completely and fill the holes with araldite, all the flaps and gaskets came to about £65 and we're easy enough to do.
helloukw no only the holes where the control rod (where the flaps attach to) pass through the intake manifold. Once the glue is dry you'll need to smooth it down so the intakes are nice and flush for optimum airfow.
I have an 05 ford focus zx4 2.0 with 248,000 Miles. It's getting bad the rattle sounds like a diesel engine at idle and low rpm driving. Guess I have some work to do this weekend as i'm not going to be able to sleep well after watching this video.
Amazing videos, carefully done with the right amount of detail. These videos are real life savers (and money savers) for me. How did the car run afterwards? how much did the replacent flaps cost? All the best
It ran no differently, as you can see in the video my flaps were a little loose and would have been vibrating, but working fine and no reason to think they would affect performance. It is just about dealing with the danger of them failing and killing the engine.
Great video I must say. Do you have any idea why the noise goes away when I unplug the solenoid? I would think that if they are loose they should continue to vibrate even if the runner control is not active.
The flaps are positioned open when relaxed, the actuator closes them when you start the engine and only releases again at higher revs. So when you disconnect the vacuum, the flaps open and make less noise because of reduced air pressure on them. At least that's the theory, the engine revs and vibrations also change around because you're introducing a vacuum leak, so it's not a perfect test.
Craig's DIY Car thanks for the quick reply. The noise goes away completely when I unplug the solenoid.... and the noise only starts after the car has warmed up. Im wondering if it's worth replacing just the solenoid before I venture into taking off the intake.
Solenoid unlikely to be the problem. If it is presenting with engine temp, then you may be being misled with the flaps as they shouldn't be affected by heat (although it's possible I guess). As I said above removing hose introduces vacuum leak which changes engine revs so you must be very careful interpreting results. This is an example of loose flaps (worse than mine were): th-cam.com/video/5gaD0TXOASQ/w-d-xo.html
Amazing video. Is it possible to pull the rod and remove the flaps only to reinstall the rod (without flaps). My thinking is that reinstalling the rod (without flaps) you will plug the holes that would have been left in the manifold runners if you didnt reinstall the rod. You remove the compromised flaps, save yourself the trouble of reinstalling new flaps that will wear out, and not create holes in the manifold. Thanks!!
You could, but the rod is really what's dangerous and it is what actually fails as shown in the video. Removing the flaps will probably slow the wear on it but I'm not sure how much. As to the holes between the runners, you could also seal them up with epoxy to isolate each tract but honestly I doubt it would make any perceptible difference to anything.
Great video. I’m probably going to remove the flaps completely in my 07 Focus if they’re worn out. Do I need to fill the holes where the bearings go too or can they be left open? Will removing the flaps cause a check engine light to come on?
Craig's DIY Car thank you sir. Mine didn’t even have any bearings. It was rattling bad. I ended up removing the flaps and rod. I plugged the hole at the end with JB weld and it’s running fine.
I know this video is pretty old now in youtube time, but my 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 cyl Duratech could have been the subject of this video last year! *NOTE: The warning sign for many of these motors having this occur, (and there are videos), is the plug on the opposite side of the manifold and vacuum actuator where the shaft for the flaps goes through , falls out, and creates a huge vacuum leak and runnability problem. It gets punched out by the shaft vibrating and dancing around when those shaft bushings go bad!!!
So ive just bought a Mk3 Mondeo, noisy tappets or so i thought. Followed your commentry and thought id investigate the inlet flaps. MY GOD!!! One had completely come off. The other 3 had lost their shape and were very worn. I removed the inlet manifold and a couple of them complete fell out. Is the medal rod supposed to be 1 piece as mine was in 3 bits!?! Anyway thanks, im gonna run it without flaps for now and see how it gets on. Awesome video. Subscribed!!
Would disabling the actuator work effectively? The concern is it wearing out to the point pieces break off an get in to the valve chamber, besides the annoying clatter. Disabling the actuator, and leaving the valves in the open position.
If you did that from day 1 you would probably slow the wear down, although it would probably still occur. (It seems to be caused as much by vibration as airflow). But once worn you still have a time bomb, leaving them open may quieten rattling but it's not a safe permanent solution.
What evidence do you have that mild vibration alone (with the actuator disabled) would be sufficient to cause continued significant wear of the rod resulting in inevitable fragmentation of the rod? I am trying to understand how, what I imagine would be relatively mild rod vibration of plastic against the stainless steel rod, could cause such erosion of the stainless steel rod. Have you actually observed the damaging effects of vibration, so that you speak from experience or is that just your conjecture? I really would like to know whether you are speaking from a position of experience or conjecture. I will be pleased to have learned something if your answer regarding such vibration is based on observations of multiple cases of "vibration only" induced erosion of a stainless steel object in such an environment . Sorry to be so tedious. I have trouble communicating, let alone communicating succinctly.
What model mk3 is this, I’m in love with that front bumper I have a Zetec and the fog lights are disgusting and the zs ones are nice but I really like your bumper
I have a ST170, bought it two months ago so I don’t know what is normal or not, I noticed the engine having clicking noises and got me worried, but seems like it is the same clicking I hear from your video, the clicking increases with revs and gets muffled when the engine is at 2000+ RPM. I heard it can be the fuel injectors? It sounds like a diesel engine.
There is only one end. You could also plug the internal holes and try to make the sidewalls flat for the sake of airflow, but really best to replace the flaps if you care that much. Use an epoxy or something like JB Weld.
It's a 3.5 mm square, the length you will have to measure by the width of the IM, if you're looking to replace it good luck as the size doesn't appear to be a standard stock of square rod. You would want a hard stainless steel grade.
@@CraigsDIY thanks for the info craig i use the car every day really its going to be a quick weekend job was thinking going to a local engineer here to get one made up just going to try have everything ready to go and bang it out but once again thanks for the info mate have a lovely sunday
Thanks for the great videos . I have a 2005 Ford Focus Duratec (USA) . Can I just disable the flaps as a preventative measure (pull the actuator vacuum line and plug it) ?
You could and I guess it would help a little, but the wear and failure is (I think) caused primarily by vibration, not the actuating of the flaps, so it wouldn't be a long term solution.
Hi there, awesome vid, thanks. I was thinking of sourcing a replacement rod. It looks like about 3.25mm. Is there a complete spec? There are 3 and 4mm square rods readily available on ebay, maybe this will work if it's harder than mild steel? When I removed my flaps I had a definite flat spot at low rpm, so I am going to put them all back, just need another hard-wearing rod. Ford/Mazda should have made this a serviceable item at 100k kilometres, like replacing a cambelt.
They should have designed it so it doesn't wear like this, it's inexcusable really. The rod I believe is 3.5 mm sq, no spec but it will be a stainless steel of some grade. I looked to replace it too but as you say stock rod mostly goes from 3 to 4 mm so I couldn't find any easily. It would also need to be a harder stainless that the typical cheaper stuff, avoid 304 or the like.
@Craig's DIY Car I live in Cali and was planning on doing this in the summer. Just want to verify that it would apply to a 2005 ford focus SE? Thanks for the great videos!!
@@CraigsDIY I actually did the job this past Saturday. My car's setup isn't exactly the same but your video helped a lot. The steel rod wasn't too bad and I would've put it back but the plastic was really worn, and I couldn't even find the bearings. Ford wouldn't sell me the flaps or bearings so I just used JB weld epoxy to fill the holes and took the flaps out. Engine is running just fine. Will see in a year if I still pass Cali emissions lol
What did you do with the vacuum line(s)? Did you seal up the holes where the bearings would be? I’m guessing you have to leave the intake manifold runner control solenoid connected so the check engine light doesn’t come on.
I accidently broke the white/yellowish plastic piece that connects the actuator to the rod. But, I'm guessing I can just delete the flaps and it wouldn't matter?
@@CraigsDIY Couldn't pull the rod through with pliers. Current fix: drilled tiny holes in actuator arm and the yellow rod attachment, then Zip-tied them together. It's sort of working, but not perfect. Going to salvage yard to get attachment. If that doesn't work, I'll try wrenching out the rod again.
Thank you for this great video. I really appreciate the format of audio edited with video. Easy watch and a good use of my time. I do have an important question.about option 3 as I will be choosing this option. Will this trigger an engineer code? I live with in the metro area of PDX Oregon. We have emission test every 2 years and check engine lights will fail the vehicle. Does removing the glass create an engine code?
No. In theory the ECU should probably have a different map but in practice nobody reports any issues. It certainly won't effect emissions or set errors.
Interesting. Most of what I looked up about the 2.0 engine for my 2016 Focus some were saying its a normal thing. But most of the time the sound would disappear a little bit, sometimes just go away and usually would be louder than before. Can really hear them once you give it some gas though. Though doing a hearing test, it sounded like it was coming from the high pressure fuel pump. I'm assuming that would be the one, that's on the top right of the engine next to the battery and above the intake tube.
Unless ford put them back in after 2014.. I don't think 2016 has the intake flaps. My 14 focus se 2.0 doesn't have them.. Neither does my sisters 13 se. But the Injectors and High pressure fuel pump does have some ticking noises that might sound like the flaps. My 05 does have them and its so bad at idle it sounds like a diesel engine. I guess I have some work to do.
Hey man, well made and very helpful video. I have now this problem with my Volvo c30 2.0 Duratec :( Mechanics say that removing swirl flaps requires some ECU software tweaking Is that true?? Because you don't mention that. I own 2007 Volvo C30 2.0 pre-lift
Amazon links to relevant products (from the description):
Flap assemblies (x4) - amzn.to/2d3dawe
Manifold gasket - Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | Amazon UK: amzn.to/2cpztel
J-B Weld epoxy - Amazon US: amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: amzn.to/2woHtUC
Hello Craig, If you have it could you post the actual Ford part number for the flap assemblies? The part on the link does not have the Ford P/N. I tried to capture it from the video but want to be sure.Thanks KPO.
@@kpo42641 I think it's either 1317276 or 1S7G9Y428AA
What yr did they stop using tbese
The flaps , are they a sold pr piece or sold as a set of 4 ?
Your content and presentation is on a whole new level. One of the best content creators in my opinion
I replaced the thermostat in my 2005 Duratec 2.0 16valve and while at it i removed all the swirl flaps in the manifold with no issues to the running of the engine. It runs perfect. So saved myself a few quid.. I was told to do this by a ford mechanic and he was rite.. Took 3hrs start to finish. Was easier to remove the radiator and that gave full access to everything. Great video..
Has he blanked hole after flaps bar or just removed it all?
Thx
Matt
Bought a Focus CC last weekend as of the date stamp of my comment... Had it 3 days. Engine light comes on. P2008 faulty code. Intake solenoids were shot. Bought new ones. Solved.
However..... I stubbled onto this video when I was investigating the solenoid issue. And boy I'm glad I did. You just saved me a few hundred pounds.
Out of curiosity I decided to take a look at the intake manifold. (I had the bonnet open for the solenoids so hey) I think I was very lucky... 2 out of the four flaps were about to fail catastrophically!! Entirely new manifold is on its way.
Thank you.
Hi! I did the replacement job at the weekend.
- My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol)
- I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there.
- The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged)
- There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary.
As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.)
Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound.
In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km .
Thank you very much the video and the instructions!
Used this vid to remove the flaps. Engine runs great! Excellent instructions, thanks mate!
All your videos are extremely well made, the filming and audio is top notch. Thanks for helping. I’ve done 3 repairs with your videos.
05' Mazda Tribute 2.3. ran 30k miles with it no problems. Went to 9 shops nobody could figure out until a guy who a focus noticed the sound immediately. Fixing tomorrow
Sir, you've set the bar high with this video I'm very grateful and equally impressed bravo.
It happened to my co-workers car. Local Ford dealer tried to chrage $450 for doing manifold replacement. Very informative video. Great tutorials. Thanks.
Man you are genius, you saved my brain.I was going to be insane cause of this sound, i thought that the problem was timing chain or lifters but you resolved my problem! Thanky you so much! We are talking about mazda 2
I have the same issue with my ST150 fiesta
@@leonbradshaw127 I've been reading that specifically the ST150 doesn't have the swirl flaps, seems to be the exception. I'm not sure though, do you know for sure?
I have a 2.0L 2005 ford focus and took the intake manifold off and removed the flaps of death. It's an arduous task with many sensors that don't want to come loose and none of them are the same! So each one has to be done differently. Most of them require pushing in the middle of the plastic electronic part and pulling, but not all. Like me, you will have to look at them and figure out how to release them. Ok, some hints on other things:
1. Consider replacing the PCV valve and put in a new PCV hose. These are not cheap if you get the proper parts (mine cost $15 for the PCV valve and $28 for the hose). Normally you cut the PCV hose off to release the intake manifold and then replace it, because getting a pliers down to the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the PCV valve is an enormously difficult task. Just cut and replace. The PCV valve has a plastic clip holder that you must not break! If you do, you must buy the entire oil separator to get a new one and these were $33 on Ebay. To pry off the clip, you need to remove the oil separator which is held on by 8 bolts, two of which you must have an 8mm wrench to release and the other 6 you can use a ratchet and socket. Then use a small small screwdriver and try to pry the clip off - some people use a knife. Be careful! Clean the oil separator with brake clean. Then put the oil separator back. At this point, my suggestion is to connect the PCV hose on the bottom (hose clamp) but on the top- install the PCV valve on the PCV hose (hose clamp) and you must leave the plastic clip on the PCV valve then when you get the intake manifold on the car you can then just press the PCV valve on to the oil separator and then using the long rod that held the flaps of death just press down on the plastic clip to snap it on. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to put the PCV hose on the PCV valve by using a pliers on the hose clamp with such limited space.
2. Clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. You need an electronics parts cleaner for this - I used CRC Electronics Part Cleaner (wal-mart). The MAP sensor is located near the bottom of the intake manifold, and is held on with a 20 Star screw. So do it while off the vehicle. th-cam.com/video/icgaLiEoohc/w-d-xo.html
3. While the intake manifold is off the car, clean the MAF sensor with a special MAF cleaner. The MAF requires special care, so handle it such. It's held on by two 20 star screws. th-cam.com/video/U9PT8ZN3TXI/w-d-xo.html
4. Clean the throttle body - and there is a special cleaner for this also. Wal-Mart has the MAF and Throttle body cleaner in one package in their auto parts.
5. Use poster putty or some other stuff that will seal the plug hole where that square rod was.
6. Replace all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold while off the car. So much easier!
7. Clean all the sensor connectors with the electronics part cleaner.
8. Replace the manifold gaskets with new ones cause you don't want a leak there!
9. The manifold intake runner control (MIRC) is basically useless at this point, but the electronics need it. The control has a vacuum hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold - make sure you replace this. The second hose goes goes to the vacuum actuator that controlled the flaps of death. What I did was connect this hose to the plug on the right side of the MIRC, because that hose now serves no purpose, neither does the actuator.
10. Use a torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts at 13 ft lbs. All other bolts or screws snug.
11. You need to reset you electronics to get the car to work right. After doing all this work my car just died - not holding an idle! Disconnect the battery. Reconnect. Turn on ignition switch (not to start!, just to run) and let it sit for about 30-45 seconds then turn off. Try starting. It took me some time and feathering the throttle to get it to run, but then bingo, the computer saw the changes and fixed itself and the car's idle was ok.
Nope. Don't use poster putty. Use SteelStick or other epoxy blend that works to putty but drys hard. Make sure you leave a space for the actuator.
I would like just tell A BIG THANK YOU because you spend so much time creating a such amazing video helping others. Really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this video I recently replaced the pcv valve on a Mazda 5 hoping to reduce the oil consumption and this video with the manifold replacement video was a godsend. The reason why this video was so important is because I removed the swirl flap actuator during removal of the manifold. I then put it back with the swirl flaps closed and thought nothing of it but looking at these videos again I wondered if I had the rod 90 degrees out and the flaps should be open.. Sure enough it was and the actuator wasn't doing anything. Luckily only driven the car a few miles before my conscience got the better of me. Luckily you can remove the actuator whilst the manifold is still on the car.
I checked my swirl flaps and they all seemed to be in good condition with minimal movement so I've left them in. Time will tell if that was a good decision or not! Car is a 2010 Mazda 5 with 100k miles on it so about 160k Kms.
Thanks again for these videos 🙏
Hi very nicely done video! We have an 07 Focus for 11 years and it has been amazing. The big dirty secret is to do ALL your own work. This means proper tools learning as much as you can and getting down and dirty. Oil changes are a must with high quality oil and filter.
We just began to notice this clicking down at the end of the intake. Beyond a doubt this is what it is. I plan to inspect shortly and probably just remove the flaps.
Great work!
The 2007 Duane doesn't have them.
Well mate! Here in Canada they dont sell the flaps separtly, i have to buy the hole shebang and the pcv valve comes with the hose and the box. Nice clear to the point video. Also the one for removing the intake manifold. Thanks.
Just did the pcv job on my Volvo S40 1.8 from 2005 which has the same engine. I inspected the flaps and found that there were no bushings and not much wear.
Vehicle has 150.000 km and i have only owned it for 2 years so i don't know if someone has done the changed the flaps, though i doubt it very much.
Great video btw, very helpful.
Same engine different country. I also removed my flaps with zero problems. All of my modifications have actually gotten me and extra 2mpg. I removed the flaps and rod but replaced the actuator so that there is no check engine light and no botched vacuum leaks. I have also eliminated the EGR valve, installed an intake kit and an aluminum throttle body. I am going to soon install the manifold off of the 2.3L SUV that has runner control and use the swirl flap circuit to control it. This will give me dual length runner and that is far more effective for power and fuel economy than the swirl flaps.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Would like to see more about upgrading to the 2.3 L manifold and converting the IMRC's to the old control. Won't you need a re-map?
You will not need to remap as in change the MAP sensor arc. When I install it I will use the control circuit of the old tumble flaps to operate the IMRC. Once I get a tuner, the one I am going to get supports altering how that circuit functions and I can set the RPMs that the IMRC changes at. I want to see how it will operate on a stock tune though before I change it. I'll keep you updated.
Can you give us some more info about the actuator? What did you replace it with in order to avoid the CEL. I've been thinking of removing the flaps myself, but I wouldn't want to have a CEL always on.
hardyXXL - he means he put the actuator back in situ, so as to avoid a CEL. It won't do any harm.
Oh gotcha, thanks for clarifying it! I'm gonna give that a try.
Excellent content. Will definitely consider this reconditioning process if my manifold is worn-out
Thanks for the video. Yesterday I removed the swirl flaps on my 2.0 ltr focus but it did not have the metal carrier guides, which I assume is the latest manifold version? However the swirl flaps had excessive movement so they were taken out. The rod appears to be in good condition without wear, which I will keep hold of. I also replaced the psv hose (£43!) which was split very badly when I consider its only covered 76k.The psv valve was also replaced. During the first road test it doesn't rev independently when stationary and is smooth when changing gear as the throttle pick up used to cause slight knocking due to pick up lag. Just to mention on the focus it appears a little tighter when removing the manifold as I found tilting it was my only hope. All in took over 5hrs as removal was hard especially the centre bolt. Thanks again for the clear instructions and the tip on taping the socket to the bolts on reassembly. Cheers
My daughters Focus had something like that, i got tired of trying to fix them so i just removed them and plugged all the holes with JB Weld. She drove it for another year with no issues then traded it in.
Thank you for posting these videos really helped me, was a tough job but got it done in the end I went for just removing the flaps entirely 👍
How did you delete them permanently
How it runs?
Bom dia, vc pode me falar onde vc comprou as abas?estou com o mesmo problema aqui no Brasil e não encontro pra comprar
I removed the flaps completely and it runs just fine even after 510000 km.
510,000 km? Good effort... what else (major) have you had to replace/fix?
nothing on the engine. But new shocks after 350000, new dual mass flywheel after 300000, and the usual bits like brakes etc that all cars go thru. High quality long life car that doesnt necessarily "feels" so. Mine is an ex Danish police car, there´s something done to the engine, faster than the V6 version anyway. One interesting thing is that the multilink back suspension seems to last forever though. Never done anything to tht suspension in all years. And we live on the countryside...
Hello, this comment was awhile back but still relevant;
What do you do with the solenoid that attaches to the intake manifold that engages the actuator? Did it throw off a CEL code removing it?
Ray Loyst i left it attached so I didn’t have any code thrown. Just removed flaps and rod plus the piece of plastic that goes from arm to rod end
hello did you have to seal up every hole in each cylender or just the one that meets the acuater
Years ago I had this problem with my duratec 2.0 focus...I bought an intake manifold for an Escape 2.3L application. The escape manifold don't have flaps. Still mounted the solenoids and actuator but just didn't hook up the linkage as there was none. Worked fine for me for 100k miles.
thank you so very much sir you gave me hope of life I have this very issue on my neck at the moment and cannot source the intake used or new to save my life the wear on it is significant and something needs to be done immediately... I will look into your links >>Good narrating skills by the way....
Just changed the whole intake manifold on my 2008 focus 2.0 titanium (UK) for one out of a fiesta st150 runs much better thanks, virtually a straight swap but without the swirl flaps and fitted a new PCV valve & roose motorsport PCV hose thanks for posting these videos Craig they're really helpful 😀👍🏻
I did a simple vacuum mod to a Ford Fusion intake w/o intake runners and installed, easier and works great.
What do you mean simple vacuum mod? Did you just remove the intake runners and did you still plug up the rubber motor?
Beautiful explanation how a flap or runner work in a intake manifold .... thanks 🙏🙏🙏
Hello Craig, just watched your Duratec manifold R&R video and now this one on fixing the swirl flaps. Interesting suggestion to just not re-install the flaps due to cost and take the little fuel economy hit. I may consider that after inspection once the manifold is removed. I mentioned before you seem to have good video capture and editing abilities, it really makes for a high production value, especially with the post recorded voice over. I think I'm going to try that also on my next repair job.
Thanks, KPO
How did your manifold turn out removing the flaps? Was going to get started on this myself over the weekend. Thanks for any information.
Kris Lynette I’m currently doing the delete method on my 2002 Mondeo 2.0 Duratec HE as my flaps are around 5x as bad of movement as this video after inspection tonight. It has taken me 3 months to get around to it as I suspected flaps to be the cause and had to weigh up options before jumping the gun. Will update you tomorrow once car is together and another update after a week or so with a flap delete. Note I’m not that experienced with cars and the removal task alone took nearly 6 hours with several 1/4 socket extensions written off as the 3/4 set doesn’t fit where bolts are
Okay, so I finished it earlier on today, the rod was an absolute prick to remove! And there oddly was only a plastic casing with all this ground up looking plastic in centre between inlets. I had to clean all of it down including between inlets were rod was due to how worn it was for the epoxy to grip. I filled every hole the rod went through and left the agitator on attached to side but left the white clip piece out as well so no cel code was thrown either. Initial test drive so far so much more responsive, picks up speed faster. I have noticed a slight delay or something along those lines if giving gas backing of n full gas straight away. Will see what it’s like for the next few days but seems to be running beautiful. Have not noticed a decrease in fuel consumption yet but will be able to tell later on down the line. Give it a go if you haven’t already. Also massive thanks to this channel. Has helped me through my journey with alot of swearing i got there in the end lol
My car had 70,000 miles on it and the flaps were not worn at all, they still fit tightly in the housings.
I removed them anyway, the car runs just as well as it used to, maybe even slightly better. I also installed an oil catch can because the oil seperator on these cars suck too much oil into the inlet for my liking. Might be why the flaps had so little wear in my case.
Another great video. I removed mine completely as taking the manifold off was hard enough, I wasn't doing it twice lol.
Never noticed a change in fuel consumption or running of the engine. As you said, some report a slight increase in consumption and some even say there's reduced power/torque in the lower rpm but I didn't really notice anything.
Did you get any DTC failure code?
No, never had a problem with it done. Just removed the flaps, sealed up the holes left and bolted it back on.
Thanks for your answer.
What did you use to seal them up? I need to do this later so any info is appreciated.
The st150 version didn't have swirl flaps out the factory so I think removing is probably the best way,
another great video though shows exactly how to make it like new again
Thanks for the great videos. I fix my Bad Flaps today on my 2003 Mondeo.
I remove them and the car runs great. Thx again Craig! :)
BR/ Micke from sweden.
Hello i did this and now my car wont stay on it starts and dies?
@@stickytarmacs you have to seal the holes
My 2005 Mercury Mariner 2.3 had this issue, but in my case, Ford had relocated the flaps deeper into the manifold and they are sealed into the main body of the manifold, which is completely sealed. The only way to solve the rattle was to replace the entire manifold with a new one from Ford; about $200.00 U.S. at the time. The engine ran fine but sounded like it was falling apart.
Those are called IMRCs (runner controls) and aid with the airflow, some manifolds have both. Honestly $200 for a brand new manifold assembly is not the worst outcome.
Hello l have a 2005 petrol 2.0 Ford Focus recently whenever I park my car in direct sunlight when I start the engine l am hearing unusual noise from the dashboard around the car radio area
Well this video give me all the info on how these flap work...so as for me in central america parts are expensive so i disable the the flap system and uplug the solenoid and tube....leaving all flap open....bc the electronic throttle control the system as a regular car....car run super smooth and lots torque is nice and i get a extra mpg...first it was bugging and starving for air especially when i slow down and accelerate....
Excellent video and explanation of the flap issue!
Thank you so much for making this video. I've noticed this exact noise from my motor for quite a long time and you have supplied me with some valuable information.
Tremendous stuff !
I have a 2010 Focus Mk2 with 2.0L Duratec engine. It seems like Ford gave up the flaps, and placed a "Runner Control Valve" which seems to do the same job, and is very easy to replace (Ford #BS7E-9J559-AA).
I thought the valves controls the flaps ?
I just bought the valves because I have the P2008 code on my 2007 ford focus, but now I am thinking of de-flaping it which would make the valve pointless. (I guess the good thing is it'll shut off the check engine light)
Same shit like on BMW Diesel, the Swirl flaps gets loosen and they fall into the intake valves and damage the engine. The intake manifold is built like this, plastic, the swirl flaps are of Metal. Best way to protect the engine is to remove the swirl flaps, the engine will still running good and withhout any issues.
One of the best videos on youtube!
My 2004 Focus with 2.3 PZEV engine has two vacuum tubes and two IMRC solenoids. But otherwise the manifold looks very similar. I'm sure it's a different Ford part number though.
Was doing a pcv valve on my Mazda and noticed the swirl flaps were stiff to turn, jammed them open by putting a screw in the solenoid side, did not reinstall solenoid so far so good
The flaps are open by default (when actuator relaxed), so from what you wrote it sounds like you have jammed them closed.
nah did it with the intake manifold off, was going to pull them out and fill the hole but it was stuck in there. to do the pcv valve on them you have to pull the intake off so though why not do some preventative maintenance, no check engine light unplugged it from the solenoid and actuator
Thank you for the great detailed video! I think my best option is to deflap and call it good. My car is a Mercury Milan and has over 275k miles on it.
does these flaps fits american focus as well as Europe focus?
I know this is going waaay back. But i have a 2007 Ford Focus ST woth 2.3L Duratec and it seems these inserts show up as a part# in Canada/US. I may order rhese doe the Mondeo feom the UK. But I would think a 2.3 Duratec with both IMRC and IMTV would be universally indentical especially if the parts made in the US?!
Long and short, I'm hoping these will work on my '07 Focus 2.3.
Amazing step by step by the way! I will be following this when I do the job!!
Yes I don't think there would be a difference. The part numbers should be the same too.
@CraigsDIY Thanks for the reply! I'm leaning towards your repair vs...E-Bay new but knock-off intake...as tempting as that is.
I doubt you still have the car, but did your intake repair hold up?
What happen if you run the car without the flaps and keep the actuator so you don't get actuator code
Hi, if you were to remove the rod and flaps entirely, would that create a problem with the idle?
Do you have to disconnect a fuse or some electronic part maybe?
Hi I wanted to know the same .....all I did was disconnect the 2 intake manifold solenoid and unplug 2 tube on each of it....and it ran super find the throttle idle as a normal ...I get a extra mpg vehicle role smooth when. Let off the gas... The drive mood is just so fine for me.....first it was bugging I could have heard the starving for air.....now it ran will and take off with confident.... I have a 2.3 ford fusion 2008...
@@Platinumtag thanks for this info, I will delete mines as well, at least I have confidence that it won't do any harm.
@@mzansipunters4295 it won't....just monitor the gas consumption could probably burn less or more I'm not sure.
hi watched a couple of your vids, and there all very professional and well explained .this helps us all out , keep up the good work .atb JOHN
At 9:38 you say "seal it up with....." I can't make out what you say. Did you say aerolite? Like the heat resistant adhesive?
I say Araldite, but any plastic-compatible 2-pack epoxy is the point.
@@CraigsDIY thanks
@@CraigsDIY plastic jbweld?
Excellent videos. I am the the US yet many things cross to my 2006 Focus ST with the 2.3l duratec. I just removed the manifold and have removed the rod and flaps. On another TH-cam video the guy fills the holes between the runners with epoxy. Is this necessary?
Not necessary to fill the holes. But it wouldn't hurt.
I completed this job myself with the help of a friend a few years ago, buying a complete set of new flaps, and had ordered a new but stupidly mis-measured the length of the original and in the end turned my (already quite damaged) rod around and threaded it through from the other end. I now want to re-do it with a new rod, but I'm interested if anyone can provide the exact dimensions. I bought one that was 4 x 4 mm which seemed to fit ok
I measured mine as 3.5 mm square, which is not a standard stock size, and I couldn't find any stainless rod that would suit. I'm pretty sure 4 mm sq won't fit the flaps or bearings. If you could find the right size you would just buy a meter or so and cut it to length. It should be a high hardness stainless, not 304 or 316.
When did Ford solve this problem? To what years does this apply?
only thing I'd mention, when refitting the actuator you didn't mention the position of the flaps (or did you!). I've a feeling mine weren't correctly aligned as I refitted the actuator afterwards. Might have to come off again to check!!!
They relax open. I don't think you could position them wrong.
@@CraigsDIY that's good to know, Thank you. Think I've got a major issue then!!!
300.000kms mk4 petrol 2.0 Duratec Mondeo owner here . I am experiencing elevated IATs when not in WOT, sometimes elevating up to 70-90c !! No strange sound from the manifold though, is there any chance stuck flaps could be an issue ?
i got an 03 mondy with 350,000+ km on the clock, apparently engine was replaced or repaired at around 180, any scratch i get on the car i just cover up with spraypaint of a similar color, hoping to not need to replace anything other than the gearbox again any time soon so im thinking a good ol delete would be best
That price for the full manifold is a bargain compared to all the individual parts. Just the vacuum actuator was $97 US then there is the solenoid, and then the rods, flaps, bushings, vacuum lines etc.
loved your video! we just bought a 2010 ford focus and found out the actuator isnt attached to the car, the previous owner took the rod out and the flaps. do you know we can eliminate the p2004 code by attaching an actuator and attaching the vacuum hose to it, or splice the vacuum hose to another vacuum line?
you would be doing us a great service if you happen to know the answer to this question, thanks in advance!
I think it's sufficient to just connect the electronics up, if the PCM sees the right electrical circuit it should be happy, it's not sophisticated enough to actually know what's happening. If the existing hose is available you could use it and just leave the actuator working nothing, on that note check the old mod sealed up the hose nipple on the manifold.
Great video, very informative. Everything I needed to know. Thanks for posting.
Thank you very much for this! My sister's 2005 Focus has some really loud flaps and I'm considering doing this fix. Appreciate the insight!
Did you end up doing this? I have an 05. Focus and was thinking about doing it
@@sdbw1990 going to take this on next weekend It looks like... my intake flaps are super loud sounds like a diesel and low rpms. Every time I drive it now it makes me nervous after seeing these catastrophic failures.
@@chrisl2090 I did this a little while ago. Went pretty good. I used jb weld to fill in the holes between cylinders. Car still running well years later!
@@sdbw1990 I appreciate the reply. I have 248k miles on this 05 and I dont think the flaps have ever been looked at. Looking forward to a nice clean and none clattered idle..
What would happen if you took the flaps out and left them out?
You would have a vacuum leak unless you seal the rod hole as explained, and ideally the inside holes too to keep the ports separated. People have done this and report no problems. In theory the engine will be slightly out of tune and less efficient at idle and low revs but it doesn't seem to make much noticeable difference.
Have 2007 2.0 and thought all the racket at the top of the motor was the chain getting loose at 250,000 miles. I did not know these had the flaps but apparently they do and when I shut off the vacuum the racket stopped. Watched a different video ( not this one ) where guy removed all the flaps and re- installed.
When working on broken thermostat bolts recently I had the manifold off and decided to pull the flaps out. I took the vacuum actuator off of the end and using needle- nose pliers pulled the steel rod out. I used needle - nose plus clamped vise grip pliers over the needle- nose pliers so that the vise grips clamped them tighter, then hammered on the vise grips to knock the steel rod out. A lot of baked sludge made it tough and after moving the rod about half way I sprayed with Gumout and tapped it back in most of the way to help loosen the rod in the flaps. After pulling the rod out I then pried the flap mounts out, popped the flaps out of the mounts, and re installed the mounts to hold the gaskets in place. Put vacuum actuator back on with the little plastic ball piece that moves the rod.
Everything works fine without any flaps as far as driving goes.
When doing a flap delete, do you remove the rod and keep the actuator, and then plug up the holes? will it affect the idle(make it unstable)
Correct. Others report no noticeable effect. But it must make some difference.
@@CraigsDIY it shouldn't, the idling is controlled by throtle .
can one disable the function of thes flaps by plugging the vacuum hose to the actuator? surely the problem will be eliminated then
The flaps 'relax' open so you can stop them being turned into position by disconnecting the hose, as explained in the beginning of the video. But it won't stop the vibration and grit from wearing on the steel rod, you might slow it down at best.
@@CraigsDIY sorry i check afterwards and i have the newer version 1.6 ti-vct which does not have the flaps
At least Ford sells the flaps. There arte other manifacturers with the same issues where you'll only get the complete manifold for purchase. And it's not like they will sell it for a good price. They always want to make them golden.
Changed mine on my ghia x mondy. You don't really need them as it's only there to keep things smooth at low rpm. I will be getting another manifold and remove them completely and fill the holes with araldite, all the flaps and gaskets came to about £65 and we're easy enough to do.
By filling the holes, you don't mean the holes where flaps were, right?
helloukw no only the holes where the control rod (where the flaps attach to) pass through the intake manifold. Once the glue is dry you'll need to smooth it down so the intakes are nice and flush for optimum airfow.
I have an 05 ford focus zx4 2.0 with 248,000 Miles. It's getting bad the rattle sounds like a diesel engine at idle and low rpm driving. Guess I have some work to do this weekend as i'm not going to be able to sleep well after watching this video.
Amazing videos, carefully done with the right amount of detail. These videos are real life savers (and money savers) for me.
How did the car run afterwards? how much did the replacent flaps cost?
All the best
It ran no differently, as you can see in the video my flaps were a little loose and would have been vibrating, but working fine and no reason to think they would affect performance. It is just about dealing with the danger of them failing and killing the engine.
Great video I must say. Do you have any idea why the noise goes away when I unplug the solenoid? I would think that if they are loose they should continue to vibrate even if the runner control is not active.
The flaps are positioned open when relaxed, the actuator closes them when you start the engine and only releases again at higher revs. So when you disconnect the vacuum, the flaps open and make less noise because of reduced air pressure on them. At least that's the theory, the engine revs and vibrations also change around because you're introducing a vacuum leak, so it's not a perfect test.
Craig's DIY Car thanks for the quick reply. The noise goes away completely when I unplug the solenoid.... and the noise only starts after the car has warmed up. Im wondering if it's worth replacing just the solenoid before I venture into taking off the intake.
Solenoid unlikely to be the problem. If it is presenting with engine temp, then you may be being misled with the flaps as they shouldn't be affected by heat (although it's possible I guess). As I said above removing hose introduces vacuum leak which changes engine revs so you must be very careful interpreting results. This is an example of loose flaps (worse than mine were): th-cam.com/video/5gaD0TXOASQ/w-d-xo.html
Amazing video. Is it possible to pull the rod and remove the flaps only to reinstall the rod (without flaps). My thinking is that reinstalling the rod (without flaps) you will plug the holes that would have been left in the manifold runners if you didnt reinstall the rod.
You remove the compromised flaps, save yourself the trouble of reinstalling new flaps that will wear out, and not create holes in the manifold.
Thanks!!
You could, but the rod is really what's dangerous and it is what actually fails as shown in the video. Removing the flaps will probably slow the wear on it but I'm not sure how much. As to the holes between the runners, you could also seal them up with epoxy to isolate each tract but honestly I doubt it would make any perceptible difference to anything.
Hi, how and wherewith can I seal up the actuator hole ? The thortle response how is it ?
You would seal the hole with any epoxy resin.
@@CraigsDIY Can u send me a link where I can to buy compatible one ?
@@CraigsDIY I removed all the flaps, just the gasket is in the place ... Is that right ?
Great video. I’m probably going to remove the flaps completely in my 07 Focus if they’re worn out. Do I need to fill the holes where the bearings go too or can they be left open? Will removing the flaps cause a check engine light to come on?
You can leave the interior holes open. No CEL, unless you disconnect the servo electrics.
Craig's DIY Car thank you sir. Mine didn’t even have any bearings. It was rattling bad. I ended up removing the flaps and rod. I plugged the hole at the end with JB weld and it’s running fine.
I know this video is pretty old now in youtube time, but my 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 cyl Duratech could have been the subject of this video last year! *NOTE: The warning sign for many of these motors having this occur, (and there are videos), is the plug on the opposite side of the manifold and vacuum actuator where the shaft for the flaps goes through , falls out, and creates a huge vacuum leak and runnability problem. It gets punched out by the shaft vibrating and dancing around when those shaft bushings go bad!!!
do new intake manifolds come with the flaps i just ordered one, in pics there's no flaps im wondering if its a seperate part
Yes should do.
So ive just bought a Mk3 Mondeo, noisy tappets or so i thought. Followed your commentry and thought id investigate the inlet flaps. MY GOD!!!
One had completely come off. The other 3 had lost their shape and were very worn. I removed the inlet manifold and a couple of them complete fell out. Is the medal rod supposed to be 1 piece as mine was in 3 bits!?! Anyway thanks, im gonna run it without flaps for now and see how it gets on. Awesome video. Subscribed!!
How does it run without flaps? Any issues, abnormalities?
Would disabling the actuator work effectively? The concern is it wearing out to the point pieces break off an get in to the valve chamber, besides the annoying clatter. Disabling the actuator, and leaving the valves in the open position.
If you did that from day 1 you would probably slow the wear down, although it would probably still occur. (It seems to be caused as much by vibration as airflow). But once worn you still have a time bomb, leaving them open may quieten rattling but it's not a safe permanent solution.
What evidence do you have that mild vibration alone (with the actuator disabled) would be sufficient to cause continued significant wear of the rod resulting in inevitable fragmentation of the rod? I am trying to understand how, what I imagine would be relatively mild rod vibration of plastic against the stainless steel rod, could cause such erosion of the stainless steel rod. Have you actually observed the damaging effects of vibration, so that you speak from experience or is that just your conjecture? I really would like to know whether you are speaking from a position of experience or conjecture. I will be pleased to have learned something if your answer regarding such vibration is based on observations of multiple cases of "vibration only" induced erosion of a stainless steel object in such an environment . Sorry to be so tedious. I have trouble communicating, let alone communicating succinctly.
What model mk3 is this, I’m in love with that front bumper I have a Zetec and the fog lights are disgusting and the zs ones are nice but I really like your bumper
Just a standard pre-facelift, not Zetec. I agree sometimes simple and basic is best.
Where were you able to buy the spare part, friend?
I have a ST170, bought it two months ago so I don’t know what is normal or not, I noticed the engine having clicking noises and got me worried, but seems like it is the same clicking I hear from your video, the clicking increases with revs and gets muffled when the engine is at 2000+ RPM. I heard it can be the fuel injectors? It sounds like a diesel engine.
Great video. I have a 2009 SMax 2.0tdci. Is it likely to have flaps?
I just deleted them entirely and plugged the ends with epoxy. The car (Focus) ran just fine after that.
can you remove them and go with out them?
Yes. To avoid a code either install a new tuner or remove flaps but keep everything else connected and plugged in to fool the PCM.
very nice video i have mazda 3 2008 with 230 000km do you think is time to remplace that or my car do not have problem in 2008 ?
You only have to seal up one end of the rod hole when deleting?
What is recommended for hole plugging?
There is only one end. You could also plug the internal holes and try to make the sidewalls flat for the sake of airflow, but really best to replace the flaps if you care that much. Use an epoxy or something like JB Weld.
any idea the size and length of the spindle craig ? many thanks sir
It's a 3.5 mm square, the length you will have to measure by the width of the IM, if you're looking to replace it good luck as the size doesn't appear to be a standard stock of square rod. You would want a hard stainless steel grade.
@@CraigsDIY thanks for the info craig i use the car every day really its going to be a quick weekend job was thinking going to a local engineer here to get one made up just going to try have everything ready to go and bang it out but once again thanks for the info mate have a lovely sunday
These plastic intake manifolds with electronic inputs are pure garbage...designed by auto makers for parts profits...
Thanks for the great videos . I have a 2005 Ford Focus Duratec (USA) . Can I just disable the flaps as a preventative measure (pull the actuator vacuum line and plug it) ?
You could and I guess it would help a little, but the wear and failure is (I think) caused primarily by vibration, not the actuating of the flaps, so it wouldn't be a long term solution.
Paul Patt i too have have one do they have the flaps
What is the the white piece hooked to the acuator???
Hi there, awesome vid, thanks. I was thinking of sourcing a replacement rod. It looks like about 3.25mm. Is there a complete spec? There are 3 and 4mm square rods readily available on ebay, maybe this will work if it's harder than mild steel? When I removed my flaps I had a definite flat spot at low rpm, so I am going to put them all back, just need another hard-wearing rod. Ford/Mazda should have made this a serviceable item at 100k kilometres, like replacing a cambelt.
They should have designed it so it doesn't wear like this, it's inexcusable really. The rod I believe is 3.5 mm sq, no spec but it will be a stainless steel of some grade. I looked to replace it too but as you say stock rod mostly goes from 3 to 4 mm so I couldn't find any easily. It would also need to be a harder stainless that the typical cheaper stuff, avoid 304 or the like.
I just noticed this looks like the 2.0 manifold. I have the 2.3. Any idea if the 1317278 flap assemblies will fit my 2.3?
1317278 is the # for the bushings not the flaps. I don't know about the 2.3 sorry. Try to find some decent photos of both and compare.
@Craig's DIY Car I live in Cali and was planning on doing this in the summer. Just want to verify that it would apply to a 2005 ford focus SE? Thanks for the great videos!!
You can see the actuator if the flaps are installed, just go look in the right place as shown in the video.
@@CraigsDIY I actually did the job this past Saturday. My car's setup isn't exactly the same but your video helped a lot. The steel rod wasn't too bad and I would've put it back but the plastic was really worn, and I couldn't even find the bearings. Ford wouldn't sell me the flaps or bearings so I just used JB weld epoxy to fill the holes and took the flaps out. Engine is running just fine. Will see in a year if I still pass Cali emissions lol
What did you do with the vacuum line(s)? Did you seal up the holes where the bearings would be? I’m guessing you have to leave the intake manifold runner control solenoid connected so the check engine light doesn’t come on.
I accidently broke the white/yellowish plastic piece that connects the actuator to the rod. But, I'm guessing I can just delete the flaps and it wouldn't matter?
Sure.
@@CraigsDIY Couldn't pull the rod through with pliers. Current fix: drilled tiny holes in actuator arm and the yellow rod attachment, then Zip-tied them together. It's sort of working, but not perfect. Going to salvage yard to get attachment. If that doesn't work, I'll try wrenching out the rod again.
Thinking of purchasing a 2006 Mazda 5 Active which has the 2.0 petrol duratec engine.
Is this year also a risk??😲😔
Probably.
I have these in my mk2 st200 aswell. But, luckily they are made out of metal in the older models.
Thank you for this great video. I really appreciate the format of audio edited with video. Easy watch and a good use of my time.
I do have an important question.about option 3 as I will be choosing this option.
Will this trigger an engineer code?
I live with in the metro area of PDX Oregon.
We have emission test every 2 years and check engine lights will fail the vehicle.
Does removing the glass create an engine code?
No. In theory the ECU should probably have a different map but in practice nobody reports any issues. It certainly won't effect emissions or set errors.
Interesting. Most of what I looked up about the 2.0 engine for my 2016 Focus some were saying its a normal thing. But most of the time the sound would disappear a little bit, sometimes just go away and usually would be louder than before. Can really hear them once you give it some gas though. Though doing a hearing test, it sounded like it was coming from the high pressure fuel pump. I'm assuming that would be the one, that's on the top right of the engine next to the battery and above the intake tube.
Unless ford put them back in after 2014.. I don't think 2016 has the intake flaps. My 14 focus se 2.0 doesn't have them.. Neither does my sisters 13 se. But the Injectors and High pressure fuel pump does have some ticking noises that might sound like the flaps. My 05 does have them and its so bad at idle it sounds like a diesel engine. I guess I have some work to do.
Bom dia,estou com o mesmo problema e não consigo encontrar essa peça pra comprar aqui no Brasil,vc pode me ajudar por favor?
Hello. Did this defect cause the engine to malfunction, or did it just cause noise?
if you take flaps out will the emisions be ok for the mot
Should be fine.
Hey sir to take of intake manifold need to remove of fan ? Or not
i started to hear some clicking noise as well:/
focus mk2 1.6 07
Hey man, well made and very helpful video. I have now this problem with my Volvo c30 2.0 Duratec :( Mechanics say that removing swirl flaps requires some ECU software tweaking Is that true?? Because you don't mention that. I own 2007 Volvo C30 2.0 pre-lift
It would probably be ideal but most people report it runs fine without.
@@CraigsDIY aa
? On which page did you buy the spare part?
would you have to seal up hole in every chamber ot just the one that meets the acuator craig ? thankyou
You don't need to unless you're a perfectionist. No harm to do it tho.
@@CraigsDIY thanks very much craig have a lovely day