I love the old school approach, this is how I grew up. Doesn't cost a lot of money but helps make you fast. And you do not break much equipment good fun .😎👍
I strip weight from my daily ( racers) all the time. Hp makes you go fast. Weight reduction makes you go fast, stop fast and turn better. And it costs less.
yup, decades ago peeled 400 lbs of "dumb weight" off my Datsun 620 longbed and pumped the little L20-B to 165 whp, lower close ratio transmission from a 1600 station wagon. wouldn't do over 90 but it'd sure do most of that in an 1/8. "what the heck is under your hood?"... always fun.
"Performance is power versus weight." In the next episode of UTG, Tony sands 7 pounds of primer and body steel off Project Z, then waxes bare metal for corrosion resistance and improved coefficient of drag.
The golf ball divot effect would be slightly better for drag than a flat waxed surface. Intentional hail damage is gunna be the next trend among drag racers
Have you looked into an aluminum/plastic radiator? Could probably find something at the junkyard out of a compact import that would do the job and be significantly lighter. Also may have the added benefit of having less tank capacity.
@@mikejohns3104 Honda maybe TOO small for waiting in line to get to the starting line, but "newer Mopar" (aka Mitsubishi) from a little 2.5 V6 might be good.
Those Darts are tough cars. I enjoy being able to watch all of these cars take shape and come alive. I like that slant 6 and it is going to pull that car a lot better than most people think. (Even though I am a 440 guy from waaay back) Thanks Uncle Tony.
Definitely close off the bottom of the trunk. It will act like a parachute from the air passing under the car. There is a reason all the newer cars have a belly pan from the front bumper to the rear now. Helps aerodynamically to increase mpg
I'm inspired to do a similar project. Just a little twist, street driven. There is a Ford Pinto sitting in a back yard nearby, perfect candidate. Has to be a v8, I have several sitting around.
@Uncle Tony's Garage. Many years ago, when we first started dragging Snowmobiles on asphalt, we used a closed circuit cooling system. We plumbed up a big cooler, with quick disconnects and an electric/battery pump to circulate the water. You MAY be able to eliminate the radiator entirely with a similar setup. Realizing that, idling would quickly become the enemy, it would save approx 20 lbs or so of nose weight.
I was just thinking while watching this of the contrast between old school drag racers like Tony and young guys like Cleetus McFarland for example. I subscribe to and watch Cleetus as well, and the polar opposites in build style is interesting. Cleetus is all about the high tech / high horsepower, but he has the same base love of racing as Tony does in my opinion. Just two completely different approaches to the same goal of racing and having fun.
Honestly that’s such a cool idea I would spend the extra money and go with a light aluminum radiator the plexiglass windows and the aluminum drive shaft just to make it even lighter
Build a top fuel style starter for by using a cheap sbc starter weld a socket on the out put shaft and just hold it on the crank nut just like top fuel ditch the factory starter battery and wiring use a 18volt tool battery to run the distributor with a switch im guessing that could save 50lbs or better
Haha even after having a few bucks and experience behind me , I still do the low buck thing too. The thing is right now I do have a decent chunk of cash I could put in the project car, but it doesn't need alot of things that you can buy in a store. Whatever I do have to buy will be top shelf ,I'm done with trash.
Always fast for cheap lol its why i always ran junkyard pontiac and olds motors when everyone else was throwing money into sbc motors so many times giys went wtf i said yeah my 200 dollar pontiac motor w a krylon rebuild just made your sbc look anemic lol torque monsters loved them the rocket 350 too and the infamous quadrajets people heard me coming for miles away lmao moan baby
I ran a circle track stocker, Cutting weight and stock Mopar suspension tricks made the car competitive, not just $$$. I coulda learned a thing or two from you Tony!👍🏼
I see now! Cleared up my perspective. You've got it right Tony no doubt! All you gotta do is clean the tires on the track and get us a time.. Im excited keep us posted for sure!!!!
@@grndzro777 Thabks, I’m no road scholar or TH-cam grammar nut. I am human and by definition, I am not perfect. I’m Just a dumb gear head. Good day, sir.
Thanks for your videos. I’ve learned a lot from you even though I’m a Honda guy. Love the car. It’s always interesting listening to someone explain different aspects of their cars and why they did it the way that they did.
The aluminum radiator with electric fan from the Miata or any Honda will still weigh less that the OE mopar radiator due to the material and holding less water.....and since you don’t have an alternator an electric fan won’t take any power to run, given your charging between runs.
I love everything about this car. The small steel wheels being light makes sense... so much sense that when you get the slots you may want to compare the weight to these steel wheels. I'm not sure but going by memory I thought the aluminum slots were thick.... unless you're talking about those old-school steel slots. Thick aluminum can weigh as much or more thinner steel.
I got my almost 100 % stock appearing 66 stang down to 2650 with 10 gallons of gas in it . took a complete bare shell car and every part or bracket that went back on was trimmed or drilled to make it lighter, a hundred cheap or free mods. kept the car from 77 to 2002 ,,, it ran a solid 14.4 without posi on street tires , so guessing a 13 second car with posi., Never forget when I decided to drive it onto the scale at Moroso's track in Fla some 5.0 guys were behind me and ran the scale, they were a bit surprised at how light it was. I did some crazy things like drill the brake and clutch arms, replace the glovebox door with a thin wooden one with fabric and padding, drilled the window scizzor assembly and every bolt was cut to exact length , biggest thing i didnt do was put side plexi windows in it ,,the window assembly on a mustang with cranks etc weighs more than 35 lbs, empty the door weighed 40lbs , with vent etc 75lbs , 1 % of the cars weight gone, per door . lot of fun and mostly free stuff.
You are spot on with your reasoning about the rear axle being strong enough. A lot of off road guys get carried away sometimes with heavy duty this and heavy duty that, but sometimes they add so much weight because of this that it requires even more heavy duty this and that in other areas. It just snowballs and the next thing you know there rig weighs 8500 lbs and doesn't work as good as if they would have been more reasonable with their requirements.
Good job on everything.I built my 73 Dart swinger just like this.Mine had 360 cubic inch,8 3/4 4.88,727 trans,man valve body.Ran 11.60 s 1/4,7.30 s 1/8.Plexiglass windows.Wish i hadnt done the windshield tho.Ran this car 15 years,Started with 318 4 speed,went to 340,then a 360
How about an aluminum radiator? is that one copper? and how about putting the radiator in the back? Also how about a much smaller radiator that can't keep it cool? so you just have to do your run and then shut down to cool off? or run in cool weather only? Also perhaps plastic front vent triangle windows only? Holes in front fender exterior panels? remove grille?
Light is Right Uncle Tony , had a 1962 Chevy 2 with a 327 l79 m21 12 bolt with 373 gears , an honest lightened to 2100 lbs . only mtr work done was new bearings ( comps good ) a bit more aggressive cam hi-rise manifold holly 750 . We used to humiliate people with much more expensive cars yes mopars too .nice vid
Had a similar ride except it had a 3.08 ten bolt. Got 22 MPG and ran 13.90 crossing the finish line in 3rd gear at 4800 RPM. I miss that car. It rusted out.
@@paulhare662 Yeah , we had a blast with mine around 13 street tires closed exhaust , with out any effort , all of those types of cars as Uncle Tony says are just great
Need put some speed tape over any of those lightening holes that face forward; front fenders core support and probably the door handles. A flat plate facing the wind is highest drag except a flat plate with holes in it. Go to bathroom before you run the 1/4 mile, it will cover the weight add of the speed tape😀
This project is totally awesome, why because many people write off 6 cylinders as non performance, inline 6 rock!! One head, one head gasket, one intake gasket. When Tony broke the cam in it was crisp as and apple and running sweet as a nut! Love it!! I am fizzing at the bung to get a go pro and Gtech ride.👍👍
Nice car, looks like fun. My only suggestion might be a thermostatic fan. Your setup still drags and it could be a toss up on parasitic loss but it would be an interesting comparison. Running off a battery, the electric fan might be the answer with it shut off during a run. Just my 2c.
Engine Masters did a video on fans and they found that a plastic fan is terrible. Also there needs to be a shroud around that fan for it to do any good.
Tony, it was a lucky day when I found your channel. Best source of REAL information on cars I have found...period...and the best part is that most of it is totally universal. I also love the way you tweak the "voices of caution"...This is a hobby for people with guts...This country needs more people like you. I'm curious, at what power to weight point do you think the fun starts(for a performance street car)?....I say it's ten pounds.
Back in the 80s Ford used aluminum wheels for the spare tires on the Mustangs. I don't know if that fits your application. They may have been four lug wheels. Just throwing it out there for the front wheel.
Drill the ends secondary leafs, and then adjust the torsion bars for the new wieght transfer. Clean all the casting flash in the diff case, and outside the diff. Have a driveshaft made in a thinner wall tube, as well as a smaller diameter.
Can you please explain the Welch hemi heads in 1904 Welch made a car the model 4-L with a 336 cubic inch 4-cyl engine with 50hp it had a hemi hemispherical combustion chamber
Tremendous! Weirdly, long ago in my wrench twisting days, I fooled around with very large motors ( early 70's Fury police cars ), and teeny euro and japanese iron, usually with weak little engines....had fun with both! Remember, Colin Chapman of Lotus fame said "simplificate, and add lightness " Had pretty good success : multiple F1 championships, and the Indy 500....
My '76 Valiant's torsion bars didn't break, but the thin stamped steel crossmember that held the bars rusted out, dropping the front end onto the road. Last Chrysler product I ever owned.
replace the adjustable worm hose clamps with the dreaded spring steel clamps, they weigh slightly less, valve cover breathers, wheel bearing caps, maybe a modern aluminum radiator with plastic tanks from an econobox, this may be unorthodox but removing a few bolts from the rear end housing so long as it doesn't leak, same thing for the water pump and oil pan
I think you're car is awesome! My first car was a1966 Dart and I loved that little 225 ,Wish I still had it. Back in 1977 you could fill it up for $ 5.00 and drive all month.Those were the days.
Great idea with the looser belt on the fan, I run those plastic fans to but never thought of loosening up the belt, definitely gonna try it out, thanks uncle tony!
You have been there and done that when it comes to cars man!!! People need to think first when commenting some Lame Opionion on your stuff!......You have a Masters Degree blue collar Hot Rodding!!
You're probably going to want to tin the trunk floor as is it's going to fill the cab with fumes when you're on the starting line. It probably won't go fast enough but it will cat air under there and lift the rear at the top end of the track.
I replace any bolt which sticks out with one that only covers the threads it's screwed into. Most of the time, the factory issues ones that are too long. For bolts that hold nothing really important together like fenders and interior trim, you could drill them out lengthwise. If you do enough of them and then save the remaining bolt ends and drill shavings, those alone should add up to some sizably heavy scrap. Aluminum hoods, fenders and trunk lids could also lighten up a car
You can tell UTs passion, he is like a kid in a candy store talking about his creation! Great work Uncle Tony!!!
This man is passionate about what he does.i want him to tune my corvette.
I love the old school approach, this is how I grew up. Doesn't cost a lot of money but helps make you fast. And you do not break much equipment good fun .😎👍
I wish more cars at the drag strip were like this, truly awesome seeing this work of art, great work Tony!
under powered and light, let me introduce you to every honda at my drag strip
I strip weight from my daily ( racers) all the time. Hp makes you go fast. Weight reduction makes you go fast, stop fast and turn better. And it costs less.
yup, decades ago peeled 400 lbs of "dumb weight" off my Datsun 620 longbed and pumped the little L20-B to 165 whp, lower close ratio transmission from a 1600 station wagon. wouldn't do over 90 but it'd sure do most of that in an 1/8.
"what the heck is under your hood?"... always fun.
The car would be better on fuel to boot.
I don't ever allow that to happen.
Aaron B not only all that but it doesn't break as much
"Performance is power versus weight." In the next episode of UTG, Tony sands 7 pounds of primer and body steel off Project Z, then waxes bare metal for corrosion resistance and improved coefficient of drag.
The golf ball divot effect would be slightly better for drag than a flat waxed surface. Intentional hail damage is gunna be the next trend among drag racers
Like the guys who shaved paint off a brand new porsche to save 10lbs.
@@shop_night insanity
like NASA using white paint on rockets because it was the lightest.
Have you looked into an aluminum/plastic radiator? Could probably find something at the junkyard out of a compact import that would do the job and be significantly lighter. Also may have the added benefit of having less tank capacity.
Good idea!
Unless he finds it out of a mopar, hes not going to use it
@@mikejohns3104 Honda maybe TOO small for waiting in line to get to the starting line, but "newer Mopar" (aka Mitsubishi) from a little 2.5 V6 might be good.
Even a Taurus had a plastic radiator.
Gotta be so nice to be able to film segments like this finally! Good to see in the new shop! Congratulations again to the team at UTG!
Uncle Tony has more common sense than 90% of people today.
Anyone anymore with common sense should be allowed to wear a cape.
Uncle Tony for President!
99%
This is essential hot rodding in its purest form. He’s preaching gospel, people. He’s a prophet.
Exactly 💯%
Amen!!!
My first good laugh of the day .. “At the end of the day.. It’s still a weed whacker!”
😳.... 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the tour and explanation. Can't wait to see it go!
I need that quote on a UTG shirt : "Nothing is lighter than a hole."
Medium for me and large for GF
I’d buy that shirt!
Yes I agree!!! He needs to trade mark it or something,,,,,lol!!!!
@@michaellehmann2803 Of course, it should have more than the 4 standard holes that come with most shirts.
@@allglorytogod12 Well that goes without saying! LOL!
That is hot rodding in it's purest form, well done Uncle Tony!!!
It’s nice seeing someone do exactly what he wants to do, doesn’t give a shit about what people think
Drill smaller holes between holes on fenders. Drill holes in radiator side brackets
swiss cheese the k-member??
Drill holes in the radiator too
Those Darts are tough cars. I enjoy being able to watch all of these cars take shape and come alive. I like that slant 6 and it is going to pull that car a lot better than most people think. (Even though I am a 440 guy from waaay back) Thanks Uncle Tony.
Those factory steering columns are actually pretty hefty. You really can't tell until you remove the whole column and pick it up in its entirety.
Definitely close off the bottom of the trunk. It will act like a parachute from the air passing under the car. There is a reason all the newer cars have a belly pan from the front bumper to the rear now. Helps aerodynamically to increase mpg
You can also run the old flex fan too the faster they spin the less air they pull.
@@jeremypike9153 The belt is loose so that it slips, that way it doesn't rob any power from the engine when you hit the go pedal.
When are people going to learn to quit questioning Uncle Tony just watch and learn boys and girls there is a method to his madness
I'm inspired to do a similar project. Just a little twist, street driven. There is a Ford Pinto sitting in a back yard nearby, perfect candidate. Has to be a v8, I have several sitting around.
little Pinto wagon with the V6 was a strong runner too but..
it was pretty easy to make +200 ponies from the 2300 I4.
You make a great point on the 7 1/4 per the application vs the "its got to have a 8 3/4 everything else is junk".
yeah, it's not like that axle will have 400 HP running it, and it's easier to spin than an 8 3/4
between weight, power, and an automatic, I'd be shocked if it popped.
@@Tumbleweed_Tx yup... I had one that lived for years behind a mild 440... Doing the math it was making 440-450 hp and it never broke...
@Uncle Tony's Garage. Many years ago, when we first started dragging Snowmobiles on asphalt, we used a closed circuit cooling system. We plumbed up a big cooler, with quick disconnects and an electric/battery pump to circulate the water. You MAY be able to eliminate the radiator entirely with a similar setup.
Realizing that, idling would quickly become the enemy, it would save approx 20 lbs or so of nose weight.
I was just thinking while watching this of the contrast between old school drag racers like Tony and young guys like Cleetus McFarland for example. I subscribe to and watch Cleetus as well, and the polar opposites in build style is interesting. Cleetus is all about the high tech / high horsepower, but he has the same base love of racing as Tony does in my opinion. Just two completely different approaches to the same goal of racing and having fun.
Honestly that’s such a cool idea I would spend the extra money and go with a light aluminum radiator the plexiglass windows and the aluminum drive shaft just to make it even lighter
Build a top fuel style starter for by using a cheap sbc starter weld a socket on the out put shaft and just hold it on the crank nut just like top fuel ditch the factory starter battery and wiring use a 18volt tool battery to run the distributor with a switch im guessing that could save 50lbs or better
Tony we’re singing from the same hymnal. Frugality is a great way to go, loads more fun, big plus biggest bang for the buck.
Haha even after having a few bucks and experience behind me , I still do the low buck thing too.
The thing is right now I do have a decent chunk of cash I could put in the project car, but it doesn't need alot of things that you can buy in a store.
Whatever I do have to buy will be top shelf ,I'm done with trash.
Always fast for cheap lol its why i always ran junkyard pontiac and olds motors when everyone else was throwing money into sbc motors so many times giys went wtf i said yeah my 200 dollar pontiac motor w a krylon rebuild just made your sbc look anemic lol torque monsters loved them the rocket 350 too and the infamous quadrajets people heard me coming for miles away lmao moan baby
I ran a circle track stocker, Cutting weight and stock Mopar suspension tricks made the car competitive, not just $$$. I coulda learned a thing or two from you Tony!👍🏼
Great content. Nothing like a built 904! Exactly what I am running in my 360 powered 66 A100 lightweight panel van! 🇺🇸
That’s a cool ride
I see now! Cleared up my perspective. You've got it right Tony no doubt! All you gotta do is clean the tires on the track and get us a time.. Im excited keep us posted for sure!!!!
You did a great job, I would be satisfied with how light it is
Yes he did. If there was a manual trans in there it would be close to 40 lbs lighter.
I just watch these videos cause there's no 30 second intro, no "yo, this ya boy..." - just jump right in and down to brass tax.
I hate to be the one but it's "tacks"
@@grndzro777 Thabks, I’m no road scholar or TH-cam grammar nut. I am human and by definition, I am not perfect. I’m Just a dumb gear head. Good day, sir.
@@grndzro777 lose vs loose is one I sure see too often.
come on people! :)
@@morgenhoop I'm just a scholar of old sayings. A lot of the history behind them is fascinating.
Rhodes* scholar
it's a school not a road
Tony your going to go down in history as the GOAT as a real life practical common sense,logical real world mechanic for the common man. Awesome!!!
Hey what if you run a mini radiator out of a Honda or something like a 76 civic might save you the 7 lbs
Nice explanation tony, love to see your "toys" in action. Keep up the good job!
We learned that in high school auto shop
Power to weight ratio is key.
That 7-1/4” rear end is fine. My 73 duster with 340 came with the same. I kicked the shit out of that rear until I put 8-3/4 in it...
This is the car on your channel that I like. Can't wait to see her give it all she's got
imagine it with a thin "paint job" then wrapped.
15.6@86 mph if he's lucky
@@ericabercrombie6780 13.5@ 105
This car is so cool! All the holes all the awesome little tricks just awesome.
If you were a chef, a painter or sculptor, you'd be the best. I'm enjoying the attention to detail and I'm always learning. Thanks Tony ---- Gary
Thanks for your videos. I’ve learned a lot from you even though I’m a Honda guy. Love the car. It’s always interesting listening to someone explain different aspects of their cars and why they did it the way that they did.
I just love those old Darts , and would love to get one . They are VERY hard to find in Vancouver Canada . Great vid Uncle .
Looking forward to seeing it run and the times
Great job tony love watching and hearing your ideas the experience is 2nd to none!!! Thank you
The aluminum radiator with electric fan from the Miata or any Honda will still weigh less that the OE mopar radiator due to the material and holding less water.....and since you don’t have an alternator an electric fan won’t take any power to run, given your charging between runs.
I love everything about this car. The small steel wheels being light makes sense... so much sense that when you get the slots you may want to compare the weight to these steel wheels. I'm not sure but going by memory I thought the aluminum slots were thick.... unless you're talking about those old-school steel slots. Thick aluminum can weigh as much or more thinner steel.
That floor is the shiniest thing I've ever seen you work on!!!
For the front could you not use a couple of narrower "Spacesaver" tyres/rims usually used as spares to reduce weight and rolling resistance?
Lighter wheel in the rear. less rotation mass increase acceleration
Aluminum Center Lines are about as light as you can get.
I love it she’s a wonderful little hotrod can’t wait to see her move
I got my almost 100 % stock appearing 66 stang down to 2650 with 10 gallons of gas in it . took a complete bare shell car and every part or bracket that went back on was trimmed or drilled to make it lighter, a hundred cheap or free mods. kept the car from 77 to 2002 ,,, it ran a solid 14.4 without posi on street tires , so guessing a 13 second car with posi., Never forget when I decided to drive it onto the scale at Moroso's track in Fla some 5.0 guys were behind me and ran the scale, they were a bit surprised at how light it was. I did some crazy things like drill the brake and clutch arms, replace the glovebox door with a thin wooden one with fabric and padding, drilled the window scizzor assembly and every bolt was cut to exact length , biggest thing i didnt do was put side plexi windows in it ,,the window assembly on a mustang with cranks etc weighs more than 35 lbs, empty the door weighed 40lbs , with vent etc 75lbs , 1 % of the cars weight gone, per door . lot of fun and mostly free stuff.
If the shifter is heavy, replace the chrome steel handle with a hand-cut aluminum one. That saves a pound.
Been rocking doubles as a forklift cowboy lately. Love your videos, man! Keep it up!
You are spot on with your reasoning about the rear axle being strong enough. A lot of off road guys get carried away sometimes with heavy duty this and heavy duty that, but sometimes they add so much weight because of this that it requires even more heavy duty this and that in other areas. It just snowballs and the next thing you know there rig weighs 8500 lbs and doesn't work as good as if they would have been more reasonable with their requirements.
Good job on everything.I built my 73 Dart swinger just like this.Mine had 360 cubic inch,8 3/4 4.88,727 trans,man valve body.Ran 11.60 s 1/4,7.30 s 1/8.Plexiglass windows.Wish i hadnt done the windshield tho.Ran this car 15 years,Started with 318 4 speed,went to 340,then a 360
The Mad Scientist of drag racing just he's not mad! Great walk thru sir!
Really like watching your tricks on weight reduction. I'm always in awe with the creativity haha.
How about an aluminum radiator? is that one copper? and how about putting the radiator in the back? Also how about a much smaller radiator that can't keep it cool? so you just have to do your run and then shut down to cool off? or run in cool weather only? Also perhaps plastic front vent triangle windows only? Holes in front fender exterior panels? remove grille?
Boy is that thing going to be fun to race, can’t wait.
Light is Right Uncle Tony , had a 1962 Chevy 2 with a 327 l79 m21 12 bolt with 373 gears , an honest lightened to 2100 lbs . only mtr work done was new bearings ( comps good ) a bit more aggressive cam hi-rise manifold holly 750 . We used to humiliate people with much more expensive cars yes mopars too .nice vid
Had a similar ride except it had a 3.08 ten bolt. Got 22 MPG and ran 13.90 crossing the finish line in 3rd gear at 4800 RPM. I miss that car. It rusted out.
@@paulhare662 Yeah , we had a blast with mine around 13 street tires closed exhaust , with out any effort , all of those types of cars as Uncle Tony says are just great
I love this build, on so many levels!!!
Need put some speed tape over any of those lightening holes that face forward; front fenders core support and probably the door handles. A flat plate facing the wind is highest drag except a flat plate with holes in it. Go to bathroom before you run the 1/4 mile, it will cover the weight add of the speed tape😀
Great Video , That's what Hot Rodding is really all about , throwing out some plan Z & Aluiminum slots* thumbs up ......
One change i would make is use plexi for the tail light or maybe paint it red ,
Would a smaller rear rim and/or tire help decrease weight and get you closer to your desired gearing?
I really dig the old school vibe of what you do!
This project is totally awesome, why because many people write off 6 cylinders as non performance, inline 6 rock!! One head, one head gasket, one intake gasket. When Tony broke the cam in it was crisp as and apple and running sweet as a nut! Love it!! I am fizzing at the bung to get a go pro and Gtech ride.👍👍
Nice car, looks like fun. My only suggestion might be a thermostatic fan. Your setup still drags and it could be a toss up on parasitic loss but it would be an interesting comparison. Running off a battery, the electric fan might be the answer with it shut off during a run. Just my 2c.
It'll be cool to see this car on the track, no matter what it runs👍
yup, it'll spank the piss out of a stock slant 6.
Engine Masters did a video on fans and they found that a plastic fan is terrible. Also there needs to be a shroud around that fan for it to do any good.
Tony, it was a lucky day when I found your channel. Best source of REAL information on cars I have found...period...and the best part is that most of it is totally universal. I also love the way you tweak the "voices of caution"...This is a hobby for people with guts...This country needs more people like you. I'm curious, at what power to weight point do you think the fun starts(for a performance street car)?....I say it's ten pounds.
Also, there's room for holes in that there shifter. You only need to lose 97 oz
very cool! 1st car i hotroded was a 6 cylinder camaro, i had a blast on a very limited bugget
Wtf, Tony? No See you tomorrow? 😃
I love this car, your ingenuity and creativity of where to ditch the pounds. Keep em coming.
Yep another practical demonstration of how to lighten a vehicle. Great for the novice/ beginners. Excellent.👍
Back in the 80s Ford used aluminum wheels for the spare tires on the Mustangs. I don't know if that fits your application. They may have been four lug wheels. Just throwing it out there for the front wheel.
They are 4 lug bolt pattern, I don't think they switched to 5 lug until sometime in the 90's.
Drill the ends secondary leafs, and then adjust the torsion bars for the new wieght transfer.
Clean all the casting flash in the diff case, and outside the diff.
Have a driveshaft made in a thinner wall tube, as well as a smaller diameter.
15x3.5 center lines to match the rear wheels? They're pretty light. 👍
yup, might as well, would look sweet too.
Love the plan z dart!!! Can't wait to see that buzzin' half dozen go down the track!!
Part of me expected to hear that the driveshaft has speed holes too.
I wonder why it doesnt?
@@evanc6110 it would weaken it
@@jeremyhanna3852 Plus vibrate the shit out of the driveline
@@Shamilt3 true that
🤔🤔🤣😂
Can you please explain the Welch hemi heads in 1904 Welch made a car the model 4-L with a 336 cubic inch 4-cyl engine with 50hp it had a hemi hemispherical combustion chamber
Colin Chapman the English engineer of Lotus fame would always say "Add lightness" You're in V. good company Zio Antonino
The late Colin Chapman (Lotus Cars) was all about lightness. He would be mighty impressed.
Run an aluminum carburetor instead of the pot metal Holley. Maybe an AFB or a Holley 4010.
I can't wait to see it perform on the track
I love this car! It's the exact opposite of my fat Duster with every heavy item you could possibly imagine!
You could probably save your weight by playing around with battery sizes and brands. See if the miata battery will start it, they are super tiny.
He talked about that the other day, either on the previous video with John Wilburn or the live stream Sunday night.
Naturally aspirated without EFI so the battery's only real job is to start. I have seen very small jump start packs.
@@MPRiley-dw2nd It has points and a coil, so the battery does more than just start the car.😎
Maybe a couple motorcycle batteries linked together would drop enough weight but have enough ooomph
@@smokenchoken1736 the miata battery is the size of a lawn mower battery just a little heavier.
Can't wait to see how it does at the track. Have a great evening 👍
Thanks for keeping it real Uncle T !
Tremendous! Weirdly, long ago in my wrench twisting days, I fooled around with very large motors ( early 70's Fury police cars ), and teeny euro and japanese iron, usually with weak little
engines....had fun with both!
Remember, Colin Chapman of Lotus fame said "simplificate, and add lightness " Had pretty good success : multiple F1 championships, and the Indy 500....
Amazing job Tony,we want to see it on the track soon!!!!
I can’t wait to see how fast that car is!!!
You should have never taken that stream down, it was gold! Guaranteed viral content.
He didn't mean to go LIVE, he was supposed to be just recording...he's recording it now.-Kathy
Hi uncle tony I like all the things that you do with all of the cars 🚘 it gives me a lot of ideas for my montecarlo
Maybe add aluminum lug nuts? Static weight and rotating mass in one shot.
Wahts the bolt pattern on then front wheels, O might have pair for ya!
My '76 Valiant's torsion bars didn't break, but the thin stamped steel crossmember that held the bars rusted out, dropping the front end onto the road. Last Chrysler product I ever owned.
replace the adjustable worm hose clamps with the dreaded spring steel clamps, they weigh slightly less, valve cover breathers, wheel bearing caps, maybe a modern aluminum radiator with plastic tanks from an econobox, this may be unorthodox but removing a few bolts from the rear end housing so long as it doesn't leak, same thing for the water pump and oil pan
I think you're car is awesome! My first car was a1966 Dart and I loved that little 225 ,Wish I still had it. Back in 1977 you could fill it up for $ 5.00 and drive all month.Those were the days.
Great idea with the looser belt on the fan, I run those plastic fans to but never thought of loosening up the belt, definitely gonna try it out, thanks uncle tony!
You have been there and done that when it comes to cars man!!! People need to think first when commenting some Lame Opionion on your stuff!......You have a Masters Degree blue collar Hot Rodding!!
Thinking for most is not an option!
Opinion
You're probably going to want to tin the trunk floor as is it's going to fill the cab with fumes when you're on the starting line. It probably won't go fast enough but it will cat air under there and lift the rear at the top end of the track.
I replace any bolt which sticks out with one that only covers the threads it's screwed into. Most of the time, the factory issues ones that are too long. For bolts that hold nothing really important together like fenders and interior trim, you could drill them out lengthwise. If you do enough of them and then save the remaining bolt ends and drill shavings, those alone should add up to some sizably heavy scrap.
Aluminum hoods, fenders and trunk lids could also lighten up a car
Isn’t there some advantage to larger diameter front tires in staging and leaving? Read something about that years ago, maybe one of Tony’s articles 😄