Apologies for harping. Standard pvc is ok for fuels & oils that have no aromatic hydrocarbon content. Most pump gas has a small amount of benzene, toluene, and a witches brew of other aromatics which will eat pvc long term. The pvc sold specifically for fuel use is BLENDED pvc, usually mixed with polyethylene, nylon, silicone, or some other aromatic resistant polymer. At the microscopic level, the benzene dissolves the pvc molecules on the surface until it hits one of the resistant ones thus effectively leaving a pvc tube lined with gas-resistant polymer. The pvc in those water lines is straight pvc. If you've had good luck with them, you must be using a particularly good fuel source. You can always test stuff you're unsure of with a long acetone dip; if it doesn't swell or soften, you're good. Edit: Talked to our polymer guy and he says sometimes plastic stock, particularly overseas manufacturers with poor qc, has so many impurities that it mimics the blended pvc giving it similar resistance. So another reason these might have held up, but that can't be counted on from batch to batch.
I think what you are referring too is the FL75-PVC, not standard PVC line as FL75-PVC is a flexible PVC compound specifically designed for resistance to fuel and lubricants. Typical applications include small engine fuel lines, coolant transfer lines, and lubricant lines. That is also available in a clear and pigmented tubing. Which also has an operating Temperature of -30° to 90°C, as Nitrile Rubber is a better choice for fuel lines.
If I were into racing, I would indeed have tunnel vision. But since I can't afford to race, I just watch people like you on youtube. Its so much cheaper and easier.
I feel you on the racing thing, UT. I spent years building rally & hill climb cars and finally took a step to look at how much actual competition I was getting with it. Build, test, travel, wait...1 or 2 runs, then travel, unpack, repair, etc. Just not worth it to me. Now just doing some old car modifications for summer night or weekend cruising with the missus. So much more enjoyable.
Mule Ideas: Take a fresh but bone stock 400, run it in original configuration, then flip the pistons and see if that change alone produces quicker acceleration. Build a 'Mission Impossible' 400. Build a consistent small block of any size, and only change from a 904 to 727 and see what the parasitic losses do to acceleration ad ET.
Saw another comment and had to agree on the suggestion. Build a 3.9 V6 for it as well. I'm working on one right now 'Mission Impossible' style, and I'll pass along what I think their main problem is. Those heads are strange, that one intake port that is all by itself is not the shape of any other small block intake port. With any other intake port, if you follow the port wall with the pushrod pinch, that wall dumps out in the middle of the chamber between the two valves, but in the V6, that port wall dog-legs to the outside of the chamber because the valve position is on the opposite side of the chamber. By making that 'S' shaped turn in the port, that other port wall which would normally be a straight shot to the outside of the chamber, now has to be pushed over to make room for the exhaust port wall, and gets pinched down to a 1/4 inch around the valve guide. Total port volume is reduced by around 10cc because of this. There is enough material to fix most of that, and the CC's can be evened out, but I have not ran mine yet to see the results.
Pretty sure even Tony has said that only flipping the pistons isn’t enough of a power difference to really show up. The idea is that lots of little things can add up to something more significant.
A real man admits when they are wrong and is open to considering new information when presented factually with logic and reason. Respect. Leaning through doing. Trial and error is just part of it. God bless
Your assessment of racing being only 5% competition and the rest, the other stuff is spot on. Thanks for articulating what I have been thinking for awhile with my projects.
I cleaned out my storage room and found several sets of poly heads and a crank and I believe two blocks sadly without main caps. I have put 450k miles on a poly motor in my 66 Coronet. I've said it for years that the poly could be built into a monster of an engine. I would like to see that as a engine tested in the b body.
Same here. It became a rich man's sport here. Even street stock got way out of hand. Went to asphalt and within 3 years it happened there as well. Very disappointing. So I did the same as you.
Gen III hemi for the Belvedere. Lots of them out there by now and can be run with carbs & simple no distributor setup. Small block 727 will bolt on. Gen III is a great motor. Why not?
Speaking of tires, some testing I’d like to see. Especially when dealing with lower horsepower. Several tire widths tested back to back. How much acceleration does the car lose from rolling resistance? Additionally, the flip side would be a nice test. How small of a tire will work for traction, regarding higher horsepower. Ease of launch, vs. E.T.
Good. Also the concept of street tires and doing burnouts or not. especially when the track is very hot. I had good luck in Panama with slicks, driving around the water and launching at 1500 RPM, but we were racing on WWII unimproved air strips with dried moss in the surface. I left most who did burnouts behind as they were spinning while I probably had one or two revolutions of the tires. 1967 GTX 440 auto.
Build a Hi comp 370, a 60 over 360, I reckon and top it with good 318 heads. Got one myself, has main cap problems at the moment. As a low rpm stump puller!
Hi Tony, here's a suggestion. Many years ago I built a cheap stroker 318 for a customer. It consists as follows. 360 crank. Mains ground to 318 / 340 size. Be careful of the rear oiling seal section of the crank and grind to 318 / 340 specifications. STD rods and use the lower pin height 318 pistons. I used .030 pistons.. 355 cu in. Cheap easy torque monster..ported heads and a single plane manifold. 750 dp Halley. Headers.. damn scared the customer and his local mechanic/tuner. Have fun.
I really like that car. It has beautiful crisp but flowing lines. And white is the color for it too. Nice piece Tony. Glad it didn't waste away in your back yard. She's a beaut!!!
My right hand is going... up and down.... and I'm breathing heavy.... I want a test mule just like that!!!! Omg my dream car.... inconspicuous.... under the radar... he'll yeah!!!
I'm sure lots of other people have seen and done it, but as a younger person I haven't really seen what a budget built 340 or 360 small block can do, seems like an interesting option for "the mule"
Cool. Motor progression for the Mule. 361, 383, 413, 440 - all against the same running gear/tire on a known road course (route) with mileage and passing acceleration. And a list of issues found.
It should also be noted that since the advent of ethanol/gasoline blends, old gas line will deteriorate, turn soft and leak; this old gasoline tubing is the cause of many car and motorcycle fires. The new SAE spec that must be used is J30-R9 or up (J30-R10,11 etc) and will be clearly marked on all gasoline tubing. Some stores will still try to sell older J30-R8 to rid it of their inventory.
Correction... The cause of all these issues you mention is not the "old" fuel hose... It is the ethanol-bearing shite-gas. Traditional gasoline actually acted as a preservative on fuel system components; even if it entirely evaporated, you were left with just "varnish" residue which was easily cleaned and dissolved in just more gasoline. But this new GARBAGE FUEL does nothing but wreak complete havoc and chaos on fuel systems, if it sits unused for even a period of just a few months-- Endless clogging and corrosion and by-products that are almost undissolvable in ANY solvent. Before this shite-gas we rarely had fuel system issues. Now it is absolute chaos. ...Just as "they" intended.
I knew this was Mickey Mouse from the start. You always get what you pay for. Go with good Aeroquip lines and AN fittings, do it right the first time, and be done with it. A fuel system especially (or any system, IMO) is no place to skimp.
Put 2:73 rear in it. 440, dual plain, 10.8 to 1cr, Trick flow 270s, AED950 vac sec dog lg carb, 727auto with lock converter [cope racing trans], cam at 106 LCA.
I’ll tell you Tony at there a lot more things I’m over and content to just watch. No, not that, but many things. So a mule is spot on for watching your channel. ‘What if’ thinking hasn’t gone away for me even though I know I’m not going to do much more than maintain my 80k mile 97 Corolla
My 67 should be done shortly. Hopefully have the 318 done and in sometime next week. Still running it at the Grove at the end of the month. Gotta film more of the progress.
Another thing with racing is the higher level you race at, the less time you get actually racing. Build a modest reliable car and you’ll be working on it as you will and you can go to the track and make back to back passes. The faster you go the more work and time it takes before you can make another pass. That’s just racing. The more competitive you are, the more time you have to put in to make that pass.
Get Dan from D&D to do a two door conversion for ya! Sweet body style, one of the nicest Mopars ever, as a race car, who care about correct? It's SO clean well worth the effort! Eh?
A fully blueprinted 361 would be interesting to see how it does against it's bigger cube cousins. Not to mention mounting a thermoquad on a 361 and see how much MPG's you can achieve. I've got a 361 on my daily with an Carter AVS and got around 16 MPG on good light throttle inputs I can achieve about 19 to 21 MPG. Anywho, an underdog 361 build might not be too bad, pop the hood and everyone is expecting to see a hairy 6 pack 440, but instead a 361 with cross ram intake manifolds? a real head turner I'd assume!
I’d love to see what you can do with a 340 in the mule car with a turbo. Either a bigger single or a twin turbo setup. I know that with your knowledge you can put together an affordable but durable engine that would work on the street and the track. I’m not talking about a 1,500+ horsepower engine but a 750 or so setup.
Its all about age and wisdom as a 20 year old I had a wicked big cammed pontiac 455 in my 75 trans am.....the car wouldnt run good untill you were going atleast 65 or 70 mph on the highway....then it would run smooth and scream like a race car it would suck the carb dry of gas....played with all kinds of intakes, fuel pumps, headders, timing etc....in my late 30s I got tired of a temperamental beast you couldnt enjoy on the street just to have a wild sounding car at the cruise nights to show off to a bunch of other gear heads......I tamed it down quite a bit and I actually enjoy just going for ice cream with my wife and cruising back roads at 45mph alot more than I did trying to go racing with it.
Tony, I give you credit for making corrections when you make an error in a video. Most TH-cam car guys don't do that. The "ackerman angles" one was a good example.
I've been using various forms of PVC. Schedule 40 and 80. Plus UV resistant schedule 40 PVC which is electrical conduit. Pex is another I've used and polyethene for low pressure L.P. and natural gas . I had no idea PVC comes in a flexible form, so thanks UT.
Mule idea: Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 swap, or both. Also, redrill stock heads for LA pattern intake. These engines are stacked up like cord wood and in good shape in the bores. And those teeny ports flow way more than they seem.
I run 3:23 gears on my 84 Bracket Cutlass...With a 3 Speed/NON O.D...... and I HAVE to say 3:23 gears are the absolute precipice between Highway driving and Trailer... IMO
Totally 200 percent get where you are coming from UTG. People ask me why I didn't take over our Monster Truck and keep it going when dad retired. He gave me the whole business, hauler, truck, everything. he was even going to do all the booking from the house. I told him ABDOLUTELY NO! I was done, burnt, and toasted on spending 10 months of the year on the road going to events, and 2 months of the year getting the truck ready for the next season (and we were just a Ride Truck not a competition truck). It's a HARD life to live. My daughters grew up barely knowing me. Yeah, there is SoooOOooo much more to that "Life" than the average person sees, and it's not at all easy.
I think alternative fuels might be neat. Try building a propane powered big Block. Maybe a wood gas powered slant six. Even a cheap forklift based EV. There are articles of people making those for sub $1000
I was along these lines myself no turbo nothing overly fancy than gimmie a big ass motor and ill just ogre people with my 4 door thats what id do say F it Chrysler can get big too!!!
PTFE is the high standard. Summit carries all different sizes, application types and reinforced with or without braided covers. No worries down the road.
Do a street car setup as you said. That makes it more relatable to viewers. Nothing super lightened up, no weird engine combos. Do a low end torque small block like a 408. Moderate HP, say 450 range but over 500 ft-lbs or torque. Still pump gas, 3.55 gear, drive wherever.
I've always been curious to compare performance (1/4 mile) and fuel mileage between factory stock 318 two-barrel (rated 230 horsepower) vs the 1965 factory stock 273 Commando (rated 235 horsepower). Could be an interesting project: Mopar vs. Mopar.
Tony, I love this idea, but would it not be better for teaching about engine combinations to have say 3 configurations of a single motor of the of the same displacement to indicate performance difference. I am thinking along the lines of a 340 engine. I selected this engine because you can have a pretty anemic stock set-up and ramp this engine to some significant horsepower. I also feel a small block of this displacement would be more common for the average newbie wanting to build their first engine.
The 1971 340 block was the best one they made. Excellent engine, works really well with the 2.02" valve heads, steel crankshaft and a cam in the 284° range.
Actually a 383 test vs. a 440 would be interesting. Both with exhaust manifolds, street-able cam, single 4bbl carbs - low cost set-ups - how much does the 440 gain over the 383 in terms of real performance. And UT can give us the breakdown on cost to build each, keep them going, etc. Seems like 383s would be cheaper/easier to find - but maybe not. Anyway - lots to hit on - Big Block vs. Big Block.
Rubber isn't necessarily a bad thing. There are many types, and the one called Neoprene is a good, petroleum resistant one. The dark gray valve cover gaskets in common use are Neoprene.
How about doing a 440 motor home camshaft comparison. Trying to get the most power out of such a low compression would be awesome and informative, considering there is a lot of motorhome engines out there. ..
would love to see some boost content, slant 6 s/c or turbo 170 or 225, the little 170 would be neat to see how far it could be pushed for the every average guy wanting to boost what he has. bone stock 318 with a set of good head gaskets and studs with a budget turbo setup. Thanks for the content Uncle Tony
Dana "60" Glass. I think the sky's the limit on the new mule. Great for getting a grudge match race car together, or maybe the ultimate beater dependability combo. One crazy idea that came to this crazy brain is the "unlimited" top end highway patrol chase cruiser from Dirty Mary Crazy Larry. With a 3.23:1 8 3/4 sure grip you can get some top end. Of coarse you would have to find room to test. Just a strange thought.
I know folks will hate this idea, but, LS Swap it. A simple junk yard 5.3 with “the best” cam, efi is not that complicated (use a mail order tune) or go carb, 4l60e and compare to a similar built 318/340/360 w 727. Mix it up! Engine swaps are cool!
Tony just to clarify something that I said in the previous video comments. What I was talking about was a Universal Stainless Steel Braided Hose Dress Up Kit Oil/Fuel/Vacuum/Radiator/Heater. Those kits have a fake AM fitting that is split to make it easier to slip over a hose clamp, to conceal the hose clamp giving the impression of a high performance vehicle such as a race car.
Tony, put an air fuel ratio gauge in it and fuel system for more power than you plan plus a large cooling system and good luck buddy i LOVE the test mule idea . Youll have to try a carbed blow thru turbo on that slant!
How about the old school street racing tail of adding 20% nitro to a gas motor on the street. Does it work. How much horse power does it make? How much more fuel and timing is needed. Pros and cons. Was it beneficial in the day or was it a waste?
I remember Wednesday nights grudge nite bracket racing at Fremont Raceway (RIP) I think it was like $10 for a bucket of fun. Some nights we brought our cars. Other nights we brought our motorcycles. Definitely the "good ol days"
You need some small block representation for the mule. Possible testing you could do, is find a stock 4bbl 360 and test if what everyone says about an just replacing aluminum intake will provide no performance gains. Run it with the stock intake and carb get some data. Than swap out few different after market carbs see what the data says. Swap on and aluminum intake and run all the tests again. Other possible testing you can do is what little can you do to one for little money that will have the biggest gains type of test.
I would love to see v belt versus serpentine belt versus electric water pump, air conditioner on/off etc etc... I'd love to see just how much parasitic loss there really is in the accessory drive system
Yesss I agree on this. Been thinking of going to electric coolant fans and ditching my clutch fan all together so it won't have so much drag but I'd like to know the differences
I agree with the concept of the "mule" and continual improvement. But most folks dont have 3 or 4 carbs ,couple of sets of heads or access to lots of parts,new or used to try that sort of thing and the situation is getting worse.
Hell yes, racing is work. 5 or 6 days of prep to go make a few passes - and testing on the paved back roads can be bad for your license, but nothing is the same as racing. How about a long 413 style cross-ram to demonstrate the ram affect in its early iteration(s)
Looks like my grandpa's 1967 Slant 6 Belvedere. Hope it sounds better - he had a crack in the exhaust manifold and never adjusted the solid lifter clearances. You never had to turn the radio down to hear whether it stalled or was still running...
Fun and funny as per usual Uncle Tone! LOL. Hey wasn't there a cartoon dog named Belvedere? Not sure I'd want a car named after a dog. ;D. That's what we kids called cars that did not go fast, a dog, back in the day, remember? Just don't paint it yellow, or worse, satin black!! LOL. Also, when it comes to these old cars, we also had a saying long ago when they were fresh from the factory, "if it has tits or wheels, it's going to be trouble". Of course, all "car guys" know that that, and I mean the "real guys" who are the ones mostly watching shows like yours!! LOL ;D
AN fittings are the same as JIC fittings in all but two hose sizes. I used to build hydraulic lines with that kind of braided hose. I always build my lines through hydraulic shops because of my understanding of hydraulic lines now
I think a vacuum and afr gauge is mandatory on this car. Then do the old how carb is too much test. And I mean fully dial the things in and see at what point you're just dumping fuel since this is a big this in the carb world. Everyone tells you 800cfm on a 360 is too much even though the thermoquads were just that.
Hey Tony check out the 318 that Derrick at Vice Grip Garage is building its a 318 Dodge block with Viper rods and a stroker crank making it a 351 all used parts done cheap. The interesting part is its using LS aluminum heads and valve train. Put a huge cam for a burn out machine and he's revving it to 7400 rpm no problems. You should take a look.
Maybe a 3rd Gen hemi swap for the mule. Not a high end motor, just your base, easy to find Inna salvage yard hemi. It be an educational video both on the mechanical side as well as the results gotten via the swap. This is what hot rodding has always been, putting newer more powerful engines into older cars.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Apologies for harping. Standard pvc is ok for fuels & oils that have no aromatic hydrocarbon content. Most pump gas has a small amount of benzene, toluene, and a witches brew of other aromatics which will eat pvc long term. The pvc sold specifically for fuel use is BLENDED pvc, usually mixed with polyethylene, nylon, silicone, or some other aromatic resistant polymer. At the microscopic level, the benzene dissolves the pvc molecules on the surface until it hits one of the resistant ones thus effectively leaving a pvc tube lined with gas-resistant polymer. The pvc in those water lines is straight pvc. If you've had good luck with them, you must be using a particularly good fuel source. You can always test stuff you're unsure of with a long acetone dip; if it doesn't swell or soften, you're good. Edit: Talked to our polymer guy and he says sometimes plastic stock, particularly overseas manufacturers with poor qc, has so many impurities that it mimics the blended pvc giving it similar resistance. So another reason these might have held up, but that can't be counted on from batch to batch.
I think what you are referring too is the FL75-PVC, not standard PVC line as FL75-PVC is a flexible PVC compound specifically designed for resistance to fuel and lubricants. Typical applications include small engine fuel lines, coolant transfer lines, and lubricant lines. That is also available in a clear and pigmented tubing. Which also has an operating Temperature of -30° to 90°C, as Nitrile Rubber is a better choice for fuel lines.
I am what is commonly known in some circles as second.
Admitting mistakes is an important part of being a professional. Good job, UT.
If I were into racing, I would indeed have tunnel vision.
But since I can't afford to race, I just watch people like you on youtube.
Its so much cheaper and easier.
I love how your willing to devote time to admitting mistakes why you made them and the effect the mistake has.
Save the old stainless braiding and make Chinese finger traps-- give them to your friends, it will entertain you for hours!😆
Ouch!!!!
I feel you on the racing thing, UT. I spent years building rally & hill climb cars and finally took a step to look at how much actual competition I was getting with it. Build, test, travel, wait...1 or 2 runs, then travel, unpack, repair, etc. Just not worth it to me. Now just doing some old car modifications for summer night or weekend cruising with the missus. So much more enjoyable.
Mule Ideas: Take a fresh but bone stock 400, run it in original configuration, then flip the pistons and see if that change alone produces quicker acceleration. Build a 'Mission Impossible' 400. Build a consistent small block of any size, and only change from a 904 to 727 and see what the parasitic losses do to acceleration ad ET.
Saw another comment and had to agree on the suggestion. Build a 3.9 V6 for it as well. I'm working on one right now 'Mission Impossible' style, and I'll pass along what I think their main problem is. Those heads are strange, that one intake port that is all by itself is not the shape of any other small block intake port. With any other intake port, if you follow the port wall with the pushrod pinch, that wall dumps out in the middle of the chamber between the two valves, but in the V6, that port wall dog-legs to the outside of the chamber because the valve position is on the opposite side of the chamber. By making that 'S' shaped turn in the port, that other port wall which would normally be a straight shot to the outside of the chamber, now has to be pushed over to make room for the exhaust port wall, and gets pinched down to a 1/4 inch around the valve guide. Total port volume is reduced by around 10cc because of this. There is enough material to fix most of that, and the CC's can be evened out, but I have not ran mine yet to see the results.
Run it, hone it and ring it, run it, flip pistons, run it.
Pretty sure even Tony has said that only flipping the pistons isn’t enough of a power difference to really show up.
The idea is that lots of little things can add up to something more significant.
A real man admits when they are wrong and is open to considering new information when presented factually with logic and reason.
Respect. Leaning through doing. Trial and error is just part of it.
God bless
Integrity and character. I appreciate that greatly. Thanks UT🍻
Your assessment of racing being only 5% competition and the rest, the other stuff is spot on. Thanks for articulating what I have been thinking for awhile with my projects.
I cleaned out my storage room and found several sets of poly heads and a crank and I believe two blocks sadly without main caps.
I have put 450k miles on a poly motor in my 66 Coronet. I've said it for years that the poly could be built into a monster of an engine. I would like to see that as a engine tested in the b body.
Yup lots of years doing dirt cars. I'm over it too. I still have friends doing it, helping them out is good enough for me
Same here. It became a rich man's sport here.
Even street stock got way out of hand.
Went to asphalt and within 3 years it happened there as well. Very disappointing.
So I did the same as you.
A set of cross ram manifolds on the 361 would be cool for the Belvedere.
Gen III hemi for the Belvedere. Lots of them out there by now and can be run with carbs & simple no distributor setup. Small block 727 will bolt on. Gen III is a great motor. Why not?
I agree 👍
Speaking of tires, some testing I’d like to see. Especially when dealing with lower horsepower. Several tire widths tested back to back. How much acceleration does the car lose from rolling resistance? Additionally, the flip side would be a nice test. How small of a tire will work for traction, regarding higher horsepower. Ease of launch, vs. E.T.
Good. Also the concept of street tires and doing burnouts or not. especially when the track is very hot. I had good luck in Panama with slicks, driving around the water and launching at 1500 RPM, but we were racing on WWII unimproved air strips with dried moss in the surface. I left most who did burnouts behind as they were spinning while I probably had one or two revolutions of the tires. 1967 GTX 440 auto.
Seeing how 318 vs 340 respond to the same mods could be interesting for the mule as well as 5.9 Magnum vs 360 LA.
Build a Hi comp 370, a 60 over 360, I reckon and top it with good 318 heads. Got one myself, has main cap problems at the moment. As a low rpm stump puller!
Good on you for admitting your mistake.
Hi Tony, here's a suggestion. Many years ago I built a cheap stroker 318 for a customer. It consists as follows. 360 crank. Mains ground to 318 / 340 size. Be careful of the rear oiling seal section of the crank and grind to 318 / 340 specifications. STD rods and use the lower pin height 318 pistons. I used .030 pistons.. 355 cu in. Cheap easy torque monster..ported heads and a single plane manifold. 750 dp Halley. Headers.. damn scared the customer and his local mechanic/tuner. Have fun.
nice
Just like a good uncle tony recommends sketchy things before the facts are known 😂
Yes, and that's the main reason most of us watch Tony, he so reminds us of us, doing "sketchy" things!! LOL ;D
I have a couple of easy tests....
stock duel plain vs single plain using the same carb
sombody suggested changing tires, i second that
I really like that car. It has beautiful crisp but flowing lines. And white is the color for it too. Nice piece Tony. Glad it didn't waste away in your back yard. She's a beaut!!!
Watching on my lunch break at Ford 🤝🏻👌🏻 *thanks Uncle Tony*
Thank you for the honesty; not many folks admit mistakes. Keep up the content.
IT'S OLD MAN SYNDROME KICKING N., welcome to the club!
My right hand is going... up and down.... and I'm breathing heavy.... I want a test mule just like that!!!! Omg my dream car.... inconspicuous.... under the radar... he'll yeah!!!
I'm sure lots of other people have seen and done it, but as a younger person I haven't really seen what a budget built 340 or 360 small block can do, seems like an interesting option for "the mule"
Cool. Motor progression for the Mule. 361, 383, 413, 440 - all against the same running gear/tire on a known road course (route) with mileage and passing acceleration. And a list of issues found.
It should also be noted that since the advent of ethanol/gasoline blends, old gas line will deteriorate, turn soft and leak; this old gasoline tubing is the cause of many car and motorcycle fires.
The new SAE spec that must be used is J30-R9 or up (J30-R10,11 etc) and will be clearly marked on all gasoline tubing. Some stores will still try to sell older J30-R8 to rid it of their inventory.
Correction... The cause of all these issues you mention is not the "old" fuel hose... It is the ethanol-bearing shite-gas.
Traditional gasoline actually acted as a preservative on fuel system components; even if it entirely evaporated, you were left with just "varnish" residue which was easily cleaned and dissolved in just more gasoline. But this new GARBAGE FUEL does nothing but wreak complete havoc and chaos on fuel systems, if it sits unused for even a period of just a few months-- Endless clogging and corrosion and by-products that are almost undissolvable in ANY solvent.
Before this shite-gas we rarely had fuel system issues. Now it is absolute chaos.
...Just as "they" intended.
I knew this was Mickey Mouse from the start. You always get what you pay for. Go with good Aeroquip lines and AN fittings, do it right the first time, and be done with it. A fuel system especially (or any system, IMO) is no place to skimp.
Put 2:73 rear in it. 440, dual plain, 10.8 to 1cr, Trick flow 270s, AED950 vac sec dog lg carb, 727auto with lock converter [cope racing trans], cam at 106 LCA.
I’ll tell you Tony at there a lot more things I’m over and content to just watch. No, not that, but many things. So a mule is spot on for watching your channel. ‘What if’ thinking hasn’t gone away for me even though I know I’m not going to do much more than maintain my 80k mile 97 Corolla
My 67 should be done shortly. Hopefully have the 318 done and in sometime next week. Still running it at the Grove at the end of the month. Gotta film more of the progress.
I thought about it some more and I really agree with myself.
Always loved the 340 six pack.
Another thing with racing is the higher level you race at, the less time you get actually racing. Build a modest reliable car and you’ll be working on it as you will and you can go to the track and make back to back passes. The faster you go the more work and time it takes before you can make another pass. That’s just racing. The more competitive you are, the more time you have to put in to make that pass.
Thanks Uncle Tony ☺️ for the corrections
Get Dan from D&D to do a two door conversion for ya! Sweet body style, one of the nicest Mopars ever, as a race car, who care about correct? It's SO clean well worth the effort! Eh?
A fully blueprinted 361 would be interesting to see how it does against it's bigger cube cousins.
Not to mention mounting a thermoquad on a 361 and see how much MPG's you can achieve.
I've got a 361 on my daily with an Carter AVS and got around 16 MPG on good light throttle inputs I can achieve about 19 to 21 MPG.
Anywho, an underdog 361 build might not be too bad, pop the hood and everyone is expecting to see a hairy 6 pack 440, but instead a 361 with cross ram intake manifolds? a real head turner I'd assume!
I’d love to see what you can do with a 340 in the mule car with a turbo. Either a bigger single or a twin turbo setup. I know that with your knowledge you can put together an affordable but durable engine that would work on the street and the track. I’m not talking about a 1,500+ horsepower engine but a 750 or so setup.
700 hp for me is such a sweet spot I seem to really enjoy it 500-700:is awesome if you know how to set it up and use it. Giggity
Its all about age and wisdom as a 20 year old I had a wicked big cammed pontiac 455 in my 75 trans am.....the car wouldnt run good untill you were going atleast 65 or 70 mph on the highway....then it would run smooth and scream like a race car it would suck the carb dry of gas....played with all kinds of intakes, fuel pumps, headders, timing etc....in my late 30s I got tired of a temperamental beast you couldnt enjoy on the street just to have a wild sounding car at the cruise nights to show off to a bunch of other gear heads......I tamed it down quite a bit and I actually enjoy just going for ice cream with my wife and cruising back roads at 45mph alot more than I did trying to go racing with it.
Tony, I give you credit for making corrections when you make an error in a video. Most TH-cam car guys don't do that. The "ackerman angles" one was a good example.
Glad you saved the Belvedere from being cut up
I've been using various forms of PVC. Schedule 40 and 80. Plus UV resistant schedule 40 PVC which is electrical conduit. Pex is another I've used and polyethene for low pressure L.P. and natural gas . I had no idea PVC comes in a flexible form, so thanks UT.
Mule idea: Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 swap, or both. Also, redrill stock heads for LA pattern intake. These engines are stacked up like cord wood and in good shape in the bores. And those teeny ports flow way more than they seem.
I run 3:23 gears on my 84 Bracket Cutlass...With a 3 Speed/NON O.D...... and I HAVE to say 3:23 gears are the absolute precipice between Highway driving and Trailer... IMO
Totally 200 percent get where you are coming from UTG. People ask me why I didn't take over our Monster Truck and keep it going when dad retired. He gave me the whole business, hauler, truck, everything. he was even going to do all the booking from the house. I told him ABDOLUTELY NO! I was done, burnt, and toasted on spending 10 months of the year on the road going to events, and 2 months of the year getting the truck ready for the next season (and we were just a Ride Truck not a competition truck). It's a HARD life to live. My daughters grew up barely knowing me. Yeah, there is SoooOOooo much more to that "Life" than the average person sees, and it's not at all easy.
I think alternative fuels might be neat. Try building a propane powered big Block. Maybe a wood gas powered slant six. Even a cheap forklift based EV. There are articles of people making those for sub $1000
I've always been curious about the Chrysler v6 engines the ones that still use distributors and can be run with a carb
What about trying a 426” or 440” small block stroker? I have been wanting to see one of those put together and run.
I was along these lines myself no turbo nothing overly fancy than gimmie a big ass motor and ill just ogre people with my 4 door thats what id do say F it Chrysler can get big too!!!
PTFE is the high standard. Summit carries all different sizes, application types and reinforced with or without braided covers. No worries down the road.
That Belvedere is nice Dick Landy would approve. Thanks UTG👍👍👍
The mule needs a cross ram big block but put a mini blower on each bank huffing into each cyl head, and a 4 speed of course!
Do a street car setup as you said. That makes it more relatable to viewers. Nothing super lightened up, no weird engine combos. Do a low end torque small block like a 408. Moderate HP, say 450 range but over 500 ft-lbs or torque. Still pump gas, 3.55 gear, drive wherever.
I've always been curious to compare performance (1/4 mile) and fuel mileage between factory stock 318 two-barrel (rated 230 horsepower) vs the 1965 factory stock 273 Commando (rated 235 horsepower). Could be an interesting project: Mopar vs. Mopar.
The 1965 273 Commando intake does not fit on a 318 LA engine. The head to intake interface is a different angle.
Thank you for sharing the correct information.
Tony, I love this idea, but would it not be better for teaching about engine combinations to have say 3 configurations of a single motor of the of the same displacement to indicate performance difference. I am thinking along the lines of a 340 engine. I selected this engine because you can have a pretty anemic stock set-up and ramp this engine to some significant horsepower. I also feel a small block of this displacement would be more common for the average newbie wanting to build their first engine.
The 1971 340 block was the best one they made. Excellent engine, works really well with the 2.02" valve heads, steel crankshaft and a cam in the 284° range.
Galant efforts brother, no apology needed you are cut from the ole school cloth, we always experimented a new Avenue……👍👍👌👌👌
I'd be interested is the mule testing what ET you can get out of a 383 with hp exhaust manifolds. Test whatever gear, cam, carb does best.
Actually a 383 test vs. a 440 would be interesting. Both with exhaust manifolds, street-able cam, single 4bbl carbs - low cost set-ups - how much does the 440 gain over the 383 in terms of real performance. And UT can give us the breakdown on cost to build each, keep them going, etc. Seems like 383s would be cheaper/easier to find - but maybe not. Anyway - lots to hit on - Big Block vs. Big Block.
@@jimbosc Yeah, that would be neat.
The 318 2 barrel that David Vizard is doing his magic on it, is it going into the mule as well ?
Aeroquip makes nylon lined black sheathed hose for their E Z clip A/C system. Works great.
Rubber isn't necessarily a bad thing. There are many types, and the one called Neoprene is a good, petroleum resistant one. The dark gray valve cover gaskets in common use are Neoprene.
A 318 Poly engine would be cool to tinker with.
How about doing a 440 motor home camshaft comparison. Trying to get the most power out of such a low compression would be awesome and informative, considering there is a lot of motorhome engines out there. ..
Tony, you're a great project STARTER!!!!!!!
DDs speed shop style 4 door to two door conversion on the belvedere.
A 360 727..completely stock, then add intake carb and headers..then cam swap etc
Shout Out:Kiwi Garages!😆
would love to see some boost content, slant 6 s/c or turbo 170 or 225, the
little 170 would be neat to see how far it could be pushed for the every average guy wanting to boost what he has. bone stock 318 with a set of good head gaskets and studs with a budget turbo setup.
Thanks for the content Uncle Tony
Test out the 318 that David Vizard has in the belvedere.
Dana "60" Glass. I think the sky's the limit on the new mule. Great for getting a grudge match race car together, or maybe the ultimate beater dependability combo. One crazy idea that came to this crazy brain is the "unlimited" top end highway patrol chase cruiser from Dirty Mary Crazy Larry. With a 3.23:1 8 3/4 sure grip you can get some top end. Of coarse you would have to find room to test. Just a strange thought.
I know folks will hate this idea, but, LS Swap it. A simple junk yard 5.3 with “the best” cam, efi is not that complicated (use a mail order tune) or go carb, 4l60e and compare to a similar built 318/340/360 w 727. Mix it up! Engine swaps are cool!
Thanks Tony!
Tony just to clarify something that I said in the previous video comments. What I was talking about was a Universal Stainless Steel Braided Hose Dress Up Kit Oil/Fuel/Vacuum/Radiator/Heater. Those kits have a fake AM fitting that is split to make it easier to slip over a hose clamp, to conceal the hose clamp giving the impression of a high performance vehicle such as a race car.
Modern Hemi's might not be your cup of tea but I think it would be an interesting project.
Tony, put an air fuel ratio gauge in it and fuel system for more power than you plan plus a large cooling system and good luck buddy i LOVE the test mule idea . Youll have to try a carbed blow thru turbo on that slant!
I must have gotten really old. Never liked the looks of the 66-67s but I think I like the 4 door better.
I'd like to see the Offenhauser dual quad with two AFB style carbs tested. Ancient design but there's millions of them out there for sale.
Thanks Tony
How about the old school street racing tail of adding 20% nitro to a gas motor on the street. Does it work. How much horse power does it make? How much more fuel and timing is needed. Pros and cons. Was it beneficial in the day or was it a waste?
It's a little off the wall, but a Jeep 6 cylinder in a test car would be a great head turner with a few upgrades.
Already been done, a purple gremlin or pacer that was on the power tour years ago. Ran factory fuel injection too
I remember Wednesday nights grudge nite bracket racing at Fremont Raceway (RIP) I think it was like $10 for a bucket of fun. Some nights we brought our cars. Other nights we brought our motorcycles. Definitely the "good ol days"
You need some small block representation for the mule. Possible testing you could do, is find a stock 4bbl 360 and test if what everyone says about an just replacing aluminum intake will provide no performance gains. Run it with the stock intake and carb get some data. Than swap out few different after market carbs see what the data says. Swap on and aluminum intake and run all the tests again. Other possible testing you can do is what little can you do to one for little money that will have the biggest gains type of test.
I remember street drag racing in the seventies as a teenager…that stopped when I started to pay for tires and repairs.
So, to my eyes Mr. Belvedere is an altered wheelbase four-door?! Freakin' wild!
I would love to see v belt versus serpentine belt versus electric water pump, air conditioner on/off etc etc... I'd love to see just how much parasitic loss there really is in the accessory drive system
Yesss I agree on this. Been thinking of going to electric coolant fans and ditching my clutch fan all together so it won't have so much drag but I'd like to know the differences
I agree with the concept of the "mule" and continual improvement. But most folks dont have 3 or 4 carbs ,couple of sets of heads or access to lots of parts,new or used to try that sort of thing and the situation is getting worse.
Hell yes, racing is work. 5 or 6 days of prep to go make a few passes - and testing on the paved back roads can be bad for your license, but nothing is the same as racing.
How about a long 413 style cross-ram to demonstrate the ram affect in its early iteration(s)
In that 95% is the 1% of having a great trailer ❤
You can't even make a simple video these days without people jumping in with negativity... everybody makes mistakes. Great video as always!
Looks like my grandpa's 1967 Slant 6 Belvedere.
Hope it sounds better - he had a crack in the exhaust manifold and never adjusted the solid lifter clearances. You never had to turn the radio down to hear whether it stalled or was still running...
Fun and funny as per usual Uncle Tone! LOL. Hey wasn't there a cartoon dog named Belvedere? Not sure I'd want a car named after a dog. ;D. That's what we kids called cars that did not go fast, a dog, back in the day, remember? Just don't paint it yellow, or worse, satin black!! LOL.
Also, when it comes to these old cars, we also had a saying long ago when they were fresh from the factory, "if it has tits or wheels, it's going to be trouble". Of course, all "car guys" know that that, and I mean the "real guys" who are the ones mostly watching shows like yours!! LOL ;D
AN fittings are the same as JIC fittings in all but two hose sizes. I used to build hydraulic lines with that kind of braided hose. I always build my lines through hydraulic shops because of my understanding of hydraulic lines now
I think a vacuum and afr gauge is mandatory on this car. Then do the old how carb is too much test. And I mean fully dial the things in and see at what point you're just dumping fuel since this is a big this in the carb world. Everyone tells you 800cfm on a 360 is too much even though the thermoquads were just that.
Excellent idea!
Lets see a whack 273!!!! Love that little V8....they were a hoot when you got 'em built up well!!!
Hey Tony check out the 318 that Derrick at Vice Grip Garage is building its a 318 Dodge block with Viper rods and a stroker crank making it a 351 all used parts done cheap. The interesting part is its using LS aluminum heads and valve train. Put a huge cam for a burn out machine and he's revving it to 7400 rpm no problems. You should take a look.
The word of the day is opaque.
Tony! In case I missed it, what’s going on with the Jeep 4.0 you were rebuilding?
Maybe a 3rd Gen hemi swap for the mule. Not a high end motor, just your base, easy to find Inna salvage yard hemi. It be an educational video both on the mechanical side as well as the results gotten via the swap. This is what hot rodding has always been, putting newer more powerful engines into older cars.
I'm over softball coaching. shes finished college now. im wetting hooks again. rebuilding my ranch wagon and small boat. I got over it too....
Go Big with the 440 with a six pack and then change the cam to show the differences in performance. Some things work and some things don’t.