Could you use conductive filament? Your questions answered about the fully 3D printed speaker!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2021
- Answering your questions about my speaker build using Polymate3D's FD52 and PR61! Including:
- Which DSP did I use?
- Why is there not acoustic wool in the enclosure?
- Could you use conductive filament?
- Are you an Elegoo shill?
- Why use so much glue for the enclosure?
DSP parts:
ADAU1701 application board go.toms3d.org/DSPboard
DIY programmer board go.toms3d.org/DIYUSBi
DIY programmer guide www.diyaudio.com/forums/digit...
Sigma Studio free download www.analog.com/en/design-cent...
⬇️ Files, filaments and more for the speaker build ⬇️
POLYMATE3D
FD52 design www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
PR61 design www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Website polymate3d.com/
Twitter polymate3d?lang=de
Patreon / posts
ENCLOSURE DESIGN
Enclosure www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Floor switch www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
FILAMENTS USED
Enclosure:
Prusa Galaxy Black PLA go.toms3d.org/Prusament
Proto-Pasta Tangerine Orange Metallic PLA go.toms3d.org/ProtoTom/
Matterhackers PRO White PLA go.toms3d.org/MatterhackersPro... (this is "neutral" white instead of the standard yellowish PLA white)
Driver and passive radiator:
Surrounds and spiders: Ninjaflex Original (85A) go.toms3d.org/ninjaflex
FD52 cone: Colorfabb XT white go.toms3d.org/colorfabbXT
PR61 radiator: Matterhackers PRO White PLA go.toms3d.org/MatterhackersPro...
Chassis: Prusa Galaxy Black go.toms3d.org/Prusament
Floor button:
Prusa Galaxy Black PLA go.toms3d.org/Prusament
Prusament Lipstick Red PLA go.toms3d.org/Prusament
Matterhackers PRO White PLA go.toms3d.org/MatterhackersPro...
Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
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Come on, I asked about the DSP first and I wasn't shown on screen? I was one of the first on that video to comment
Sorry, must have missed your comment in the search... Here, I'll pin this one as the top comment, ok?
@@MadeWithLayers haha, thanks Tom. Mostly joking about, but cheers. Massive fan of you and your channel btw. I agree with you about the prusas. I love my mk3s :)
why would anyone even care lol
Grow up.
0:01 what DSP did I use?
3:12 why no acoustic dampening?
5:16 why did I use so much adhesive?
6:28 could I've used conductive/magnetic pla?
8:50 about that eq...
10:45 about the printer...
12:32 why the print quality so bad?
13:03 challenges with the build?
16:42 conclusion
your welcome everyone
also, like the new profile pic
Not sure if it's equivalent to "detect thin walls" in Slic3r, but in Cura I had good results enabling "Print thin walls" and "Equalize filament flow" for thin features that would otherwise not generate gcode.
For anyone reading the comments here, Know the feedback Tom has given is helping the project and some of the issues have been fixed in models like Tenacious 6 or on the new magnet motor work
I would appreciate a full tutorial on how to build this speaker board including what drivers to use, schematics, enclosure design, tuning, etc. It is an interesting topic but I find it quite difficult to get started. Do you have a video about that small wooden speaker of yours on your channel?
I really appreciate the fully explained/narrated videos like this.
Hey Tom...Thanks for the follow-up Q & A!
Have been watching for years now and always enjoy the content.
Love the honesty and hope you do more videos talking about the failed prints and struggle that you had making awesome projects.
Nicely done, Tom. I liked both the main video, as well as this “behind the scenes” video.
I'd love to see more speaker content. As a new and novice maker but a well-versed audiophile I would love to learn more about the specifics of making this kind of system! Thanks Thomas, great content as always!
Totally unrelated, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the shadow cast by printer to the left! It looks so crisp!
Diffused blue light from camera right, undiffused purple from camera left 😉
Fascinating project. Love all variety in it. From an audiophile perspective, it feels a lot like 'fix it in post' though.
Thank you. Great work.
THANKS FOR THE FOLLOWUP!!
Thomas, thanks for making your actual DIY haircut your official channel thumbnail / profile picture 🥳 DIY for everything is a proof of personal consistency ❤️
Great video Tom, I really enjoyed listening to it whilst designing my 3D printed speaker system. It was really informative and interesting, I now want to research DSPs more, Thank You!! 🧡💜
Thanks for responding!
Thank you for the follow-up, Tom!
I'm guessing that's a LM2577S/LM2596S step up/down converter next to the LiPo cells. Is that a Bluetooth audio receiver module between the converter and the 1/8" audio socket? For some reason I thought you had a Bluetooth receiver plugged into the headers on the ADAU1701 itself in the first video.
I can recommend the Dayton Audio DSPB-250 DSP AMP, for $35 you a single board with the ADAU1701, a 2x50W amplifier, 4 analog potentiometers on the one board, and a cable kit. You still need an external programmer, but they have one ready to use for $25 (DSPB-ICP1). These products are also under the brand Sure Electronics, JAB3-250 is the same as DSPB-250.
Thanks for bringing up this board! I've used Sure/Wondom and Dayton before, but didn't know this exact board existed. It's basically the exact board I was trying to build myself 😄
@@MadeWithLayers If you pair it with one of their KAB 250v3 boards, you get an extra two channels, so 4x50W output and BT input too. I made an enclosure for them: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761687
Thanks for the vid Thomas. Great information. Keep up the good work.
epic, love this project
30-45 minutes to design that casing? Woo that would take me ages lol. Fancy doing some Fusion 360 tutorials?
Be still trying 13 years later
A compromise on the wool is to just line the walls of the enclosure with it. This will reduce the standing waves, but as the box isn't stuffed full of the wool it won't affect the efficiency of the speaker much. That's what I usually do in a sealed box. Now for a ported box, which is what you actually have when using a passive radiator, stuffing the box with wool isn't needed, just line some of the walls (an unlined wall facing a lined wall is enough).
Completely agree with Tom's comments on the Neptune - but as he says, you get what you pay for and it's clear that the law of diminishing returns is in operation here. For printing most parts you could have a bank of Neptune 2s running and that makes for 5x the speed if you're prototyping a large project that you already have the design files for. I'm doing a tortuous one right now on a single printer but had I the budget, I'd have got a bunch of Ender 3s to do the job in a fifth of the time.
Hi Tom
Great run through :)
As for a DSP, try looking at Dayton Audio.
They have a miniDSP system thats easy to use and can pack a 👊 if needed.
And not expensive at all.
I think its almost the same price as you chip, but a more finished product.
All round excellent descriptions, arguments and justifications.
YES! Front ROW!
XD
Nice, thx so much
I've been working on a Speaker system for some time and I think I can make them even better with a bit of tweaking :P
Thanks for the video answer! :) The "custom carry board" is made by yourself?
Nice new profile picture👍
Would also love to know where precisely that hoodie is from!
New PFP!
Nice hoodie
I agree
Tom's definition of quick and dirty :)))). How about a quick and dirty designing seminar? Sound good enough? *insert a big thumb up here*
Would the constant magnetic forces eventually pop the tube apart? It looks like the layers could be the weak point in that design over time
I have been trying to figure out how to make the little USBi dongle / dsp setup, but I think I'm in over my head a little. I've been reading through the forum but it al seems a bit contradictory to me, any tips? (Or pictures of how to wire it :D). Thanks in advance!
Actual cute content. Also sounds good 😊😊😊😊😊
Where did you get that hoodie?
Nice to see Tom's Aldi caulk gun is even nastier looking than mine is! :)
Dude knows his caulk.
I've handled a lot of caulk in my days
@@MadeWithLayers Same - I got bit of a reputation among my builder friends, since I'm more of a writer than a DIYer so you can imagine.
But seriously Tom, that is a fantastic design and your explanations are superb. I was really impressed by your knowledge of speaker design, it seems like a lost art these days!
@@marcdraco2189 It's great until you buy a house, try to drill into a wall to mount a blind and find it's all caulk :)
is the carrier pcb open hardware ? What microphone did you use ?
what about building a ESL speaker?
Haha my comment is in the video;p Thanks for the answer
ok sooo for someone that already has a bluetooth speaker (sony xb30) wich sounds amazing.
what is a good reason to make a speaker like this? (genuine question because i kindof want to make this thing)
I am using hypercube 3d printer, with:
1. BTT SKR V1.4 board with all A4988 drivers
2. nema 17 stepper motors
3. Inductive type probe sensor (6V) for Z axis and optical endstops for X and Y axis
4. 12 v SMPS power supply
Problem : When I put any object for printing, my printer becomes slow multiple times in between. (i.e. nozzle moves very slowly)
E.g. in 2 hrs of total printing time, my printer gets slowdown for 2-3 times for 1-2 min.
How can I resolve this issue?
the conductive filament is not great for circuits wiring but look very good for any anti-static (ESD) boxes/tools!!
The filterless texas instruments amp still scares the crap out of me
Dfrobot XY-WRBT is a cheap bluetooth 5 reciever. Sounds good.
Thomas, your locution is great and cool enough, so I can play the video at speed x1.5 without you sounding like you've taken cocaine 🥳🆒
Okay, instead of the 1st device you pulled off to show us for $15 .. couldn't I use an Arduino Nano? if I have 1, 2 or 4 etc. lol ?
You need more complex sweaters.
When you are on phub and stumble on Furry stuff, that is how I feel when I stumble into a Audiophile project as a maker. XD
I am not really into it. But looks great anyway!
Lol agreed
Layer adhesion on every conductive filament I have used, including the expensive Proto-pasta, is just rubbish compared to conventional filaments. Severely limits the overall use even if you are just printing ESD safe boxes.
I am working with a ADAU1452 DSP board from AliExpress. I can’t for the life of me get the Selfboot to Work (boot to program I made in sigma studio)
There's one of those sitting on my desk, too. Looks like mine has a microcontroller that's messing with things...
@@MadeWithLayers this model?
a.aliexpress.com/_mKexZ8X
Yes it has a STM32 chip for some reason. I really don’t need that as I just need the DSP functions and outputs to do 3way active crossover. I am looking at their diagrams and different i2S / SPI setting to try to write to the memory and using the Selfboot jumper. Alas. It’s only working when programmed until power off for now.
i am new 3d printing, i made a very small 3d printer by myself with dvd player, now when i want to upload the marlin firmware, it wont compile, lot of errors, mostly "not declared in the scope" kind of errors, i want to show you the error file and get some help from you. to do that i need your contact email address so i can send you the error file, then you will know what is the problem.
Please help me out.
Hey, an updated profile picture! Better
Stupid question, of course, and off topic, BUT what kind of PULLOVER HOODIE are you wearing?
Is it wrong that I use my hotbed to warm up pcb ecthant...and food....and loosen the glued on broken lcds from phones😅🤣 don't judge I have a condition chronic cheapassed lazyness
Nice haircut
permanently, NO. Non-volatile, YES.
22 seconds ago??
...and conductive filaments totally suck....brittle and unusable in my experience
First!
9th
printed coils.. obviously have no idea how coils are made