Not sure if someone caught it and commented yet. But My man. Don’t reduce that DP. Just place bet it for $100. Now if 7 comes you make $0. But if the 5 hits you net $40 for zero risk at 7:40 mark in video. I’ve played this Strat since 2005. It’s called 10-11 Field. I ll make a vid on it soon. Goal is to get 2-3 hits and neutralize the DP and play out til decision is made. If point made then go back and repeat for 2 hits. Goal is to make 10 units a session and continue and leave after 1st loss after 10 units. I have a few friends in KC area I taught this too who fo a circuit of casinos in that area and he plays it for a living. You are not at table long. 2 units a shooter and exit is first loss after 10.
The Iron Cross from the don't is my favorite strategy! Just remember to make the total bets less than the amount of the DP/DC so even the 7 is a winner. The huge probability advantage after the comeout, as you mentioned, is the big draw. Love how you win with ANY number except the DP/DC. After the comeout the worst that can happen is the DP/DC gets knocked off immediately. It does happen but not very frequently. On the other hand, as long as the DP/DC doesn't hit, you win with every number including the 7. Such an ideal way to have the most common number 7 working for instead of against you.
My go to strategy. Always play don’t side - this week come out 7 4 in a row. Luckily always hedge laying 4 or 10 and playing the yo. 2 hours walked away with $1100 . Dealers made out also must have tipped them $150+ . Having dealers in on the action makes it fun and they look out for you. As a couple of times I forget to place the come bet which pays if a 7 or 11 rolls after the point is set
Thanks Jacob, rather than the dice influence aspect of this presentation, I prefer the math aspect, in that coming out you have 8 ways to lose, 3 ways to win, 1 push and 24 ways to set a point. There are insurance options, but the lay introduces a higher risk amount and the big red and 11 option would require 4 hits rather than 3 to achieve the same profit. So without insurance, or DI, you would roughly lose 1 in 4 come out rolls and win 1 in 12 over the long run. In a short run you can be lucky and dodge the come out losers and hit a few winners, or unlucky and dodge the winners and hit the losers. Similarly, once the point is established, you have 5 ways to lose the 6&8, v 31 winners, 4 v 32 for 5&9 and 3 v 33 for 4&10, with the added option of hard way bets for the even numbers. Again, you can be lucky, or unlucky in the short term, but over time the odds are in your favour. After the 3 hits, you also have the option of rather than reducing the DP, betting enough on the point to make hitting it a win and still have enough hedge available to have a small bet on some other box numbers. Whichever way you choose to play it, the math stacks up pretty well, an ability for DI would only be the icing on the cake. Cheers. Rob
yes def agree covering those hard ways with some wins to reduce the ways you can lose...you can even maybe bet the YO at 15/1 to take away 2 dice options at how you lose.
The only thing I would change is I would take my don't pass way down on the 6&8 other than that it's a great strategy! Thanks for the video! Very educational
This is great 👍👏! What I do, is I take 2 hits, and let's say that put me up $100, then what I do is I come down on all my place bets, and place the point number (say it's 5 or 9) for $150, and now I just sit back stress free and wait ✋, I'll win $50 on a 7out and depending on the casino rules about buying the 5 or 9, I'll at the very least get paid $210 and lose the $200 on the don't, so I still make an additional $10 after those 2 hits. You can even place or buy for a bigger amount to even up the hedge, but I like to keep the bigger money on the math and stick with the 7out paying higher. I might even throw $5 on a hardway knowing it's free money, and still make at least $5 more profit if the point hits.
Nice video Jacob. Saving up a bnkroll for next try. This might be too large of a play for me, but it does seem like a faster way to get some wins as long as I can make the comeout and not roll quick points.
Enjoying your videos, Jacob. Your thoughts on riding out the point after the 3 hits with a 200 don't? Switch to only a buy bet of 140 on the point if a 4/10 (+60 on 7, +52? on point) or 165 place on a point of 5/9 (+35 on 7, +31 on point). On a 6/8 switch to 180 on point (20 or 10 coming in) or reduce to only don't of $50 or $25 and order a drink. Could also after 3 hits and with longer roll anticipated, collect until point or 7 with below 4/10 point 140 on point and go 2 units 5/6/8 and 5 on field 5/10 point 165 point and 2 units on remaining inside numbers 6/8 point 180 on point and 6 on open 6/8
And if you start hitting inside numbers, you can swing that field bet to the nine, then return to the field when you get into a run of outside numbers. Excellent series you're putting out.
I am new to this so here it goes. Would it be better to have a $75 DP and then add $125 odds after the point? This way you minimize what you could loose if a 7 or 11 hits. Is this valid? Thank you
many times mentioned if you can get past the come out roll , could you go with the odds say bet 100 on come out then soon as point made add 100 with table odds ?
I think I agree with Lawrence, when you go for a $200 dont, after 3 hits place the number - 6&8 place for $180, 5 &9 place $150, 4 and 10 buy it for $125 or $150
Guys I'm just showing the strategy. All of the little side moves you do that's all up to you. I specifically do not put all of the little side plays because I'm trying to show the pieces of the strategy specifically.
I know this is a old video but I have a slight recommendation to increase your odds with this strategy (at least for the come out roll). Since the comeout roll is one of the most dangerous parts of the strategy you can put 25 dollars on the any 7 prop bet. 4 to 1. That way if a 7 were to roll on the comeout you lose your 100 on the dont pass but win 100 on the any 7 prop bet. If the point were to roll you'll lose the 25. That's okay though. Losing 25 is better than the 1 in 4 chance of losing 100. Of course if a 11 gets rolled on the comeout you get screwed 125 dollars. But there is a 2 in 36 chance of losing in the comeout roll with this strategy instead of 9 in 36. Just something to think about. Cause this strategy solely relies on making it out of the come out roll and not hitting the point. Good video/strategy though. Also, I see your playing 200 on don't pass. This strategy would work just as well if not better with 100 on the dont pass and the rest of your bets stay the same. Risking 200 like that could be so costly. My comment was based around playing 100 on the dont pass. Instead of 200. But let's say for the sake of the video and how you are betting you bet 50 dollars on any 7. If a 7 hits on comeout you won't lose anything. Might be worth it. Increasing your odds.
I'm new to craps and I thought about this before because you see SO many iron cross videos from the pass line, my immediate thought was well isn't the don't better for the player? But I've only really played the Iron Cross maybe 2-3 times anyway so I never thought to look it up or even test it with a simulator and just stumbled upon this, I'll be testing it out on the simulator tonight. Thanks.
I play this same strategy with minor tweak. After point is made. Place come bets, increases win on number or if 7-11 hits. Also hedge on come out 11, lay 4 or 10.
I tried this strategy with my hedges and I got up to $1100 profit in 10 minutes on Wizard of Odds. As soon as the point is established, I put $200 place bet on that point to cover the Dont Pass. Then I put another $200 on odds on the Dont Pass. The only thing is I don’t know odds math and I noticed I was up when certain points hit and I lost the dont pass and I was down a little when certain points hit and lost the 7. Or maybe when the 7 hit, I was up or down a little. Can you tweak it so everything is covered? Protecting the dont with a place bet on the point. And then put odds on the dont.
Also, once you point is established, let’s say the point is 5. Can you place the 5 so you don’t lose your Dont bet? And put odds on the don’t to cover the cost???
What about just laying the 5 instead of trusting that $200 come-out to chance? That come-out could land on the 6 or 8, but if you lay the 5 and play the iron cross, you've shifted the threat of the 7 over to a much more infrequently rolled number.. just my $.02
after getting 3 hits, you can place the point if 6/8, you can place $180 and still win $10 or $20.. for 5/9, place $150 to win $10 or $50.. for 4/10, place $125 to win $25 or $75..
NEVER EVER TAKE DOWN OR LOWER A DP! JUST PLACE OR BUY DEPENDING ON THE POINT NUMBER! It's kinda like placing the 4 or 10 for 100 to make 180, when u could just buy it instead and just pay the vig. The vig would be 5, you get paid 195 instead of 180.
Just learning the game. My 2 observations, both of which would seem to annoy other players on the table. 1st betting the don’t come, seems to upset others. 2nd is after you get your 3rd hit, all the takedown and putting less up also seems to take some time which also seems to annoy others. I could definitely see doing this if I was alone early morning on a table, but I am not an experienced shooter to say the least. Haha. I also like the regression videos you posted, but also seems to take so much time in taking down/ changing. Any input would be appreciated.
The dealers will take care of it at the casino, so it's much faster. One HUGE THING TO REMEMBER, your playing with your money AGAINST THE HOUSE, not the other players, who cares what they think. Play your game, do what is comfortable to you, if you want to regress after one hit, you will win more than 90% of "experienced players". Just be you Ms Angela. Thank you for watching
I'm very new to craps. I like this strategy, but I have a question. If you're going to bet $200 on the DP, couldn't you hedge by betting Any 7 for $50? Or is losing that $50 on the point ruin the return?
Depending on the table min…you could regress but no take the iron cross completely off. That way you still keep making money on the long rolls. The only shooters you lose on is those folks who roll several points, which isn’t that often. You could even headgear your come out roll and add another hit to cover that hedge.
Based on your $200 Don't Pass wager, just getting a Don't Pass Point is costly. 7 & 11 are made 8 ways out of 36. (Loss of $1600) 2 & 3 are made 3 ways. (Win of $600) Therefore, $1600 - $600 is a $1000 loss over 36 possible rolls. Make a comment if you know how to avoid 7 or 11 on the comeout, we can start our own business.
Jacob love this strategy. Question, once you bet DP if your not the shooter, I know you can pull this bet. I didn’t think you could lower the DP bet to a different amount. I thought it was all or nothing?
You can alway pull down or lower your dp, but he forgot to explain one thing...NEVER DO THAT! The casino would love to see u lower it or take it down that's exactly why it's allowed, since u are already past the coming out. All u have to do is make a place or a buy bet on the point number to guarantee u win more money either way and that amount can be adjusted at any time during the roll. When he showed the point being a 5 and he bought the dp down from 200 to 25 I just shook my head in disbelief. He put himself in a foolish position to either lose 25 or win 25. That's retarded. He could've just placed the 5 for 150, and he'd win either 10 on the point, or win 50 on the 7out. Why win or lose 25, when u are guaranteed to win 10 or 50? He claimed he was just showing the basic strategy and not side bets, but in my opinion if you're gonna show the strategy show the basic detail of hedging correctly with a place or buy bet. It's absolutely retarded to take or tone down the dp anytime you're past the coming out. I understand u may already be up money, but still, why play foolishly?
Hey ninja ... can you please refrain from the name calling.. you can always disagree or give your opinion. But the name calling is not necessary. We have a good group here please be respectful...Thanks
I have been playing this system for a while now. It is a winner for me overall, but some nights that come out roll will burn you down. One night I got hit on the come out 15 out of 20 tries. So now I insure the come out with an any seven one time bet.
yes thats what i thought maybe should be done ,even if say was 100 on dont pass bank roll,then going 25 on 5 30 on 6&8 and 20 on field ,id cover bet that come out at 4/1 for say 20 dollars.
Couple of things (not directed to the OP, but to all in general)... I would never, Ever, EVER remove a don't bet. Instead, hedge it with a place bet, e.g., place the point with enough to cover the Don't Pass (DP) bet if the point hits. Secondly, if the hardways are just a side game and are not being used for hedging (and it absolutely has no bearing on this strategy), then don't throw good money after bad. I mean, right after you learned that taking odds is the best bet in the casino, you should have learned next that prop bets are the worst. I only use props for hedging in certain systems I use. Lastly, after playing this strategy (which I'm a huge fan of), just out of an abundance of caution I have made it a practice to take down (or turn off) my Iron Cross (IC) bets after two hits. It just seems way too often that you'll hit the point within 1-3 rolls (yeah, yeah, yeah, despite the odds, and despite being a dice controller), and it hurts when that happens (really the only flaw in the strategy). So, expect to collect no more than twice after the Come Out (CO) roll (taking too many chances on making 20 buck each hit isn't worth losing 200 if the point hits), turn off your IC bets, keep your entire DP up and hedged with a sufficient place bet (for a 200 DP, I place 180 on the point (works for all) so I can at least make 20 bucks if big red hits, and little more depending on the payout for the point that is hit), and don't get emotional about a long roll while your IC bets are turned off as if you're losing out on potential winnings. Stick to two rolls and down with a hedge. You can't be mad about what you coulda-woulda-shoulda won, but you'll certainly beat yourself up over what you lose. Finally, know when to walk away.
Couple of things... First of all the " Odds bet" is not the best bet in the casino or on the craps table. Odds do not change the probability. Although using Hardways as a hedge does change the probability, in your favor. The " odds bet" will break completely even over time, and you will always be the loser over time on the passline...because of probability. The best bet on the Craps table is the Dont Pass or Dont come. On the comeout you have 3 ways to win, 8 ways to lose, 1 way to tie and 24 ways to be the favorite by setting a point. Once the point is set, 4 of the numbers can be affected by the Hardway hedge. So the best bet in the casino is A Dont point of 4 or 10, with a hard way hedge. Exactly 2 combinations of dice beat you and 7 combinations are winners. If you play this in conjunction with place bets you will cover your DONT risk very quickly.all the while being safe from the 7
@@wagermethis Agreed! Mostly. I still only see the hardways as a side game. If we're going to hedge the DP on the CO, I would consider hopping the 7s for $10 each and not worry about covering the not-so-frequent Yo. This doesn't reduce it to 2 ways to lose on the CO, but it minimizes it, such that if the CO is a loser, it essentially covers all but $70 of the DP loss (that is, lose 70 versus 200). Anything else and I'm out $30, which I can make up with two hits and down as I previously described (tempting to go three hits and down, hoping for big red instead of the point, which is the bad number now). I'll roll this out and see if I change my mind about it. 🤔 I'm a dark side player and I really do like playing the IC thru the DP. Thanks for the vid! Great as always!
I tried some stuff and stuff. I looked into laying the 10 to hedge the DP on the CO, but decided that hopping the 7s is better (in it's own ways). I think one will ultimately lose less over the longrun with this hedge than using the hardways to hedge, but don't let that stop you from playing the hardways as a side game. It's just not part of this stragey. The's the beauty of Craps -- many games in one box, just pick the game(s) you want to play and roll. I scaled the bets down and thought I throw this out there for the low bankroll players that are still reading this thread. Start with a $200 bankroll. $40 DP for the CO, and hop the 7's for $4 each, and keep 'em up until you hit a point. $10 level IC, thus get in the Field for $10, Place the 5 for $10, Place the the 6 and 8 for $12 each; no nead to place the 5, 6, or 8 if it is the point. I won't push my two hits and down, in fact, since the layout is scaled down I don't mind risking as many as 4 rolls. In any case, just beware the point and take down when you want. Obviously a 7 before the point is the best scenario. Once the IC comes down, hedge the point with enough to cover the DP, e.g., $36 on the 6 and 8, $30 on the other box numbers. Then roll it out until the point or big red hits. Rinse and repeat. I showed this to a brand new Craps player and he already loves it. It fits his wallet and even if he loses his entire bankroll due to crappy back-to-back point rolls or come out Yo's, he should still be able to play a long time. We're headed to a casino tonight. Shout out to Spirit Lake Resort and Casino in Devils Lake, ND! Enjoy!
yo... did i miscount 50 on the 5 60 each on the six-eight and 20 in the field doesnt that add to 190. how didthat come out to 200 to pay the dont on the first round?
I find that this is a winner sometimes and a loser other times. Of course no system is immune from a bad roll. A 7 or 11 on the come out does happen, you can be the controlled shooter but when the dice hit the wall and flip anything is possible. The other problem is hitting the repeaters within three rolls which wipe out the DP. I have seen several repeaters hitting two or three points in a row. I propose a better solution of starting with inside place bets. It would be $132 inside ($36 on the 6&8, $30 on the 5&9) (this is for a $5 table, scale it up as needed). You will probably need between $500 and a $1,000 bank roll. If I get one hit, I win $42 and regress to a $39 iron cross (2 units each on the 5,6&8 and a $5 field) for two rolls, after 2 IC hits take all down which usually wins around $50 (If I am up a lot I may gamble staying up on the IC with pressing on the 5,6,&8 but even then I am prone to take it all down after 2 to 4 presses of each number). Since the inside numbers hit 3x more often than the seven, I tend to move ahead and this is without any controlled shooting (if you can actually control the dice this system would be a real big money maker). One of the beauties of this idea is that you don't lose on a come out 11 as only the seven can take down your place bets (we have all seen back to back Yo when trying to hit a number for a DP, it happens). I tried the system in this video several times with mixed results and have tried the system I described above dozens of times and I got significantly more wins - maybe I was just lucky.
Everything you said is true. From my experience playing through the Dont out paces just playing inside. Because you dont actually have that many comeout losers. Sure there can be a bad run but you are always playing against the hardest number to beat. You have to win 3 hits to cover your bets, even taking them down, if you repeat the same system on the next shooter, you are still at the mercy of the 7 for atleast one more hit. The reason the craps table still exists is playing against the 7, if everyone quit playing against the 7 the casino would change the rules.
@@wagermethis I just got done running this video system several more times with the same results and I am a betting man, run both systems at the same time for 10 to 20 points and see which one comes out ahead. I would bet the DP does not out pace it and in the long run it would not not even be close!
@@wagermethis Actually you will lose on come out 7s, too, but you also lose on repeating the points. I only need duck the come out 7 but you have to duck the come out 7 and the repeating points. I will give you the YO is more than balanced by the 2 and 3. I have had wins and loses with both systems but I am farther ahead with the place bets with one win and regress. I think it is a good challenge to work both ways which I am going to continue to do. I learn a lot from your ideas, don't get me wrong I am not just a critic, I am simply looking for the best return in the long haul.
Like I told Alex this is a side move you're talking about. I'm just trying to show the strategies in this Video. you like that side move do it. There are many other side moves you could do that are just as effective if not more effective. Remember once you've established a don't you're the favorite. The either way I'm just trying to show the strategy
Why not just lay the 4 or 10 instead and combine it with the iron cross? That way instead of letting the don’t dictate the number you’re trying to avoid, you can just choose for yourself.
Dodge come out 7bylaying180 across back wall . 7 hits make 100 collars minus 10dont pass bet. Max lay on don't pass. Point his CAN recover by increasing don't pass bet or rely on probility to overcome losses by winning don't pass more times than losing.
Dice control is such a joke lol. First, most people can't throw the dice without it rolling on its side. Second, the instant it hits the back wall, it's going to knock the dice over in multiple directions, including the side. Why do you think casinos let "dice controllers" shoot the dice?
After 30 plus years snd looking at all the statistics I can tell you “controlled shooting” is a myth. Both the dice and the tables are perfectly designed to prevent it. Love your channel and your strategies. Mostly because of your honesty showing successes and failures. Having said that there is no such thing as controlled shooting of dice. At the very best you might call it influencing. Even that it’s questionable. I’ve seen so called control shooters get passed the dice and point seven out three or four times in a row. Bottom line the statistics just don’t support it. So maybe err on the side of integrity, and refer to it at best as influencing
You had me interested until you said you were controlled shooter, which is total crap, control shooting does not exist, if it did it would be illegal. There's no way can you control the dice with the backboard being set up the way it is. Impossible all it is is pure luck.
yes you can, but some casinos may have different rules on this. Most places will let you adjust your dont down to nothing because you are in the advantage.
@@wagermethis well I guess it’s different casinos because at mine if you are the shooter you can’t do anything to your bet if you are rolling because it’s a contract bet but on random shooters you can take it down
@@education654321 Have you tried to take it down or are you just assuming that. Because I bet they let you take it down, As long as you're gonna play a pass line in its place
@@wagermethis no when I play the don’t pass line and I’m rolling they won’t let you take it down where I’m at. I’ve tried that’s why I’m saying this. Even on the bubble crap it won’t let you take down your don’t pass line bet if you are the shooter. But maybe it’s different where you at
You can alway pull down or lower your dp, but he forgot to explain one thing...NEVER DO THAT! I'm not sure why he showed something ridiculous like that. No offense to him, but the casino would love to see u lower it or take it down that's exactly why it's allowed, since u are already past the coming out. All u have to do is make a place or a buy bet on the point number to guarantee u win more money either way and that amount can be adjusted at any time during the roll. When he showed the point being a 5 and he brought the dp down from 200 to 25 I just shook my head in disbelief. He put himself in a foolish position to either lose 25 or win 25. That's retarded. He could've just placed the 5 for 150, and he'd win either 10 on the point, or win 50 on the 7out. Why win or lose 25, when u are guaranteed to win 10 or 50? He claimed he was just showing the basic strategy and not side bets, but in my opinion if you're gonna show the strategy show the basic detail of hedging correctly with a place or buy bet. It's absolutely retarded to take or tone down the dp anytime you're past the coming out. It's horrible to even show that or suggest that cause now people will be doing that after watching and I understand u may already be up money, but still, why play foolishly?
This is a very strong opinion. While I do agree mostly about never taking down the DONT bet, lowering it can make sense in certain instances. But you are entitled to your opinion. Placing a DONT to create a win both ways is a good play, I agree with that, but what if you had met your profit goal by putting the $175 back in your rack, that makes sense to do then doesn't it? Either way, thank you for your support.
@@wagermethis no, because you are up, you're right, but it makes no sense to lower your dp by any amount at all. Mathematically there's absolutely no instance in which it makes sense. You can ALWAYS place the number to make the same gain but paid better in many instances. I can give u a million examples on this, but u can't give me even one instance in which lowering or taking down the dp can pay better than placing the number. I'll pay u if u can give me just one example ...I'll wait ✋and you'll realize I'm right. I'm never rude, just keeping u educated, I'm a mathematician. It's like placing the 4 or 10 for more than $10 instead of simply buying and paying the vig, you see sir?
No offense sir, but it's not an opinion, it's a mathematical fact just like 2 plus 2 is 4, there's no debate. I promise you cannot give me one single example of lowering or removing the dp in a way that will beat in payout placing that point number. After u think long and hard about it you'll agree 👍. I just want u to see eventually it's fact and not opinion this way we can all profit more intelligently together.
@@wagermethis I see your point though that you're up already so who cares right? My point is that it's like placing the 4 or 10 for 100 bucks instead of buying it...you see, it's like if I just found 100 dollars on the ground, and then I walk over to mailbox and put 2 dollars in it for no apparent reason other than I'm rich now...
@@thecalendarninja What if you didnt have the money in your rack to place it? What then. There are instances, and circumstances. One thing I have learned about craps is it is a game full of opinions, some people prefer lightside, some darkside. Some people use House Edge to bet some dont. Some people will not take Dont bets on 6 and 8 and some people never take there dont down. Its all preference and opinion. Play the way that makes you feel comfortable. But YES you are right from a mathematical stand point, placing it in a fashion that you win on any outcome is a great play.
Not sure if someone caught it and commented yet. But My man. Don’t reduce that DP. Just place bet it for $100. Now if 7 comes you make $0. But if the 5 hits you net $40 for zero risk at 7:40 mark in video. I’ve played this Strat since 2005. It’s called 10-11 Field. I ll make a vid on it soon. Goal is to get 2-3 hits and neutralize the DP and play out til decision is made. If point made then go back and repeat for 2 hits. Goal is to make 10 units a session and continue and leave after 1st loss after 10 units. I have a few friends in KC area I taught this too who fo a circuit of casinos in that area and he plays it for a living. You are not at table long. 2 units a shooter and exit is first loss after 10.
I like the 10 units play. I always play the short game.
The Iron Cross from the don't is my favorite strategy! Just remember to make the total bets less than the amount of the DP/DC so even the 7 is a winner. The huge probability advantage after the comeout, as you mentioned, is the big draw. Love how you win with ANY number except the DP/DC. After the comeout the worst that can happen is the DP/DC gets knocked off immediately. It does happen but not very frequently. On the other hand, as long as the DP/DC doesn't hit, you win with every number including the 7. Such an ideal way to have the most common number 7 working for instead of against you.
yeah man. It's a simple and very effective way to play the game
My go to strategy. Always play don’t side - this week come out 7 4 in a row. Luckily always hedge laying 4 or 10 and playing the yo. 2 hours walked away with $1100 . Dealers made out also must have tipped them $150+ . Having dealers in on the action makes it fun and they look out for you. As a couple of times I forget to place the come bet which pays if a 7 or 11 rolls after the point is set
Yeah but you have to hit at least 5-6 other numbers before your DP/DC to get any profit
Well done, my friend. Done with a calm, direct style. Very relaxing to watch. Thank you.
Thanks Jacob, rather than the dice influence aspect of this presentation, I prefer the math aspect, in that coming out you have 8 ways to lose, 3 ways to win, 1 push and 24 ways to set a point. There are insurance options, but the lay introduces a higher risk amount and the big red and 11 option would require 4 hits rather than 3 to achieve the same profit. So without insurance, or DI, you would roughly lose 1 in 4 come out rolls and win 1 in 12 over the long run. In a short run you can be lucky and dodge the come out losers and hit a few winners, or unlucky and dodge the winners and hit the losers. Similarly, once the point is established, you have 5 ways to lose the 6&8, v 31 winners, 4 v 32 for 5&9 and 3 v 33 for 4&10, with the added option of hard way bets for the even numbers. Again, you can be lucky, or unlucky in the short term, but over time the odds are in your favour. After the 3 hits, you also have the option of rather than reducing the DP, betting enough on the point to make hitting it a win and still have enough hedge available to have a small bet on some other box numbers. Whichever way you choose to play it, the math stacks up pretty well, an ability for DI would only be the icing on the cake. Cheers. Rob
Thanks bro, seems like you really got what I was showing.
yes def agree covering those hard ways with some wins to reduce the ways you can lose...you can even maybe bet the YO at 15/1 to take away 2 dice options at how you lose.
The only thing I would change is I would take my don't pass way down on the 6&8 other than that it's a great strategy! Thanks for the video! Very educational
This is great 👍👏! What I do, is I take 2 hits, and let's say that put me up $100, then what I do is I come down on all my place bets, and place the point number (say it's 5 or 9) for $150, and now I just sit back stress free and wait ✋, I'll win $50 on a 7out and depending on the casino rules about buying the 5 or 9, I'll at the very least get paid $210 and lose the $200 on the don't, so I still make an additional $10 after those 2 hits. You can even place or buy for a bigger amount to even up the hedge, but I like to keep the bigger money on the math and stick with the 7out paying higher. I might even throw $5 on a hardway knowing it's free money, and still make at least $5 more profit if the point hits.
Very effective! And if you get nervous lots of hedge opportunities that aren’t too expensive.
Nice video Jacob. Saving up a bnkroll for next try. This might be too large of a play for me, but it does seem like a faster way to get some wins as long as I can make the comeout and not roll quick points.
Enjoying your videos, Jacob. Your thoughts on riding out the point after the 3 hits with a 200 don't?
Switch to only a buy bet of 140 on the point if a 4/10 (+60 on 7, +52? on point) or 165 place on a point of 5/9 (+35 on 7, +31 on point). On a 6/8 switch to 180 on point (20 or 10 coming in) or reduce to only don't of $50 or $25 and order a drink.
Could also after 3 hits and with longer roll anticipated, collect until point or 7 with below
4/10 point 140 on point and go 2 units 5/6/8 and 5 on field
5/10 point 165 point and 2 units on remaining inside numbers
6/8 point 180 on point and 6 on open 6/8
Good example of making it past the come out roll, gaining the advantage and using regression to guarantee the win. NIce. 32:4 I like those odds.
And if you start hitting inside numbers, you can swing that field bet to the nine, then return to the field when you get into a run of outside numbers. Excellent series you're putting out.
I like that
I am new to this so here it goes. Would it be better to have a $75 DP and then add $125 odds after the point? This way you minimize what you could loose if a 7 or 11 hits. Is this valid? Thank you
Very smart Jacob!
many times mentioned if you can get past the come out roll , could you go with the odds say bet 100 on come out then soon as point made add 100 with table odds ?
I think I agree with Lawrence, when you go for a $200 dont, after 3 hits place the number - 6&8 place for $180, 5 &9 place $150, 4 and 10 buy it for $125 or $150
Guys I'm just showing the strategy. All of the little side moves you do that's all up to you. I specifically do not put all of the little side plays because I'm trying to show the pieces of the strategy specifically.
Decent channel! Reminds me of my favorites King Dice, Color Up, and Golden Touch
Thanks, Im not sure I have been called Decent, but there's worse things I guess
Wow this is good ! Great strategy to have in the tool box
What strategy do you play on other shooters while waiting for dice to come back to you?
Great video question is can a guy play a little cheaper? Start like $50 don’t pass and 32 across at the start?
I like that one too....I'm sold
Thank you Jacob,
From all the videos I have watch yours is the way to go. I always thought two hundred don't is the way to make money. Thank you
I know this is a old video but I have a slight recommendation to increase your odds with this strategy (at least for the come out roll). Since the comeout roll is one of the most dangerous parts of the strategy you can put 25 dollars on the any 7 prop bet. 4 to 1. That way if a 7 were to roll on the comeout you lose your 100 on the dont pass but win 100 on the any 7 prop bet. If the point were to roll you'll lose the 25. That's okay though. Losing 25 is better than the 1 in 4 chance of losing 100. Of course if a 11 gets rolled on the comeout you get screwed 125 dollars. But there is a 2 in 36 chance of losing in the comeout roll with this strategy instead of 9 in 36. Just something to think about. Cause this strategy solely relies on making it out of the come out roll and not hitting the point. Good video/strategy though.
Also, I see your playing 200 on don't pass. This strategy would work just as well if not better with 100 on the dont pass and the rest of your bets stay the same. Risking 200 like that could be so costly. My comment was based around playing 100 on the dont pass. Instead of 200.
But let's say for the sake of the video and how you are betting you bet 50 dollars on any 7. If a 7 hits on comeout you won't lose anything. Might be worth it. Increasing your odds.
I like this. May try it on bubble craps although a bit trickier avoiding the come out roll since there is no possibility of dice control.
Yeah but you can play it at any level
I'm new to craps and I thought about this before because you see SO many iron cross videos from the pass line, my immediate thought was well isn't the don't better for the player? But I've only really played the Iron Cross maybe 2-3 times anyway so I never thought to look it up or even test it with a simulator and just stumbled upon this, I'll be testing it out on the simulator tonight. Thanks.
You can hedge with a hard 6 if that’s the point?
if the point becomes an even number you can then counter your bet with the hard ways for a bit of cover
what set do you set to minaize the chance of come out 7 or 11
I play this same strategy with minor tweak. After point is made. Place come bets, increases win on number or if 7-11 hits. Also hedge on come out 11, lay 4 or 10.
I tried this strategy with my hedges and I got up to $1100 profit in 10 minutes on Wizard of Odds. As soon as the point is established, I put $200 place bet on that point to cover the Dont Pass. Then I put another $200 on odds on the Dont Pass. The only thing is I don’t know odds math and I noticed I was up when certain points hit and I lost the dont pass and I was down a little when certain points hit and lost the 7. Or maybe when the 7 hit, I was up or down a little. Can you tweak it so everything is covered? Protecting the dont with a place bet on the point. And then put odds on the dont.
Also, once you point is established, let’s say the point is 5. Can you place the 5 so you don’t lose your Dont bet? And put odds on the don’t to cover the cost???
Wendy Ray control shooter the idea is not to shoot a 7 you're going to get all the other numbers except the seven
This is my very own startegy... I only play the don't when using dice control... Only makes sense as the edge is highest in your favor...
What about just laying the 5 instead of trusting that $200 come-out to chance? That come-out could land on the 6 or 8, but if you lay the 5 and play the iron cross, you've shifted the threat of the 7 over to a much more infrequently rolled number.. just my $.02
after getting 3 hits, you can place the point if 6/8, you can place $180 and still win $10 or $20.. for 5/9, place $150 to win $10 or $50.. for 4/10, place $125 to win $25 or $75..
NEVER EVER TAKE DOWN OR LOWER A DP! JUST PLACE OR BUY DEPENDING ON THE POINT NUMBER! It's kinda like placing the 4 or 10 for 100 to make 180, when u could just buy it instead and just pay the vig. The vig would be 5, you get paid 195 instead of 180.
After a few hits you just place the equal amount on the point. If the point hits you win the difference and if the 7 hits it's a push. No lose bet.
Just learning the game. My 2 observations, both of which would seem to annoy other players on the table. 1st betting the don’t come, seems to upset others. 2nd is after you get your 3rd hit, all the takedown and putting less up also seems to take some time which also seems to annoy others. I could definitely see doing this if I was alone early morning on a table, but I am not an experienced shooter to say the least. Haha. I also like the regression videos you posted, but also seems to take so much time in taking down/ changing. Any input would be appreciated.
The dealers will take care of it at the casino, so it's much faster. One HUGE THING TO REMEMBER, your playing with your money AGAINST THE HOUSE, not the other players, who cares what they think. Play your game, do what is comfortable to you, if you want to regress after one hit, you will win more than 90% of "experienced players". Just be you Ms Angela. Thank you for watching
Craps is not a TEAM SPORT!!! Your money play how you want!!!
I like the flexibility of this.
What bout the point number if it's hit u loose ur $200 an what u doing bout the come out roll
Try the 4/2 1/5 set or the 1/2 3/1 for your come out roll on this strategy.
The 2/1 2/1 is good if you don't single or double pitch but if your a shooter who does the sets above will work pretty well.
I'm very new to craps. I like this strategy, but I have a question. If you're going to bet $200 on the DP, couldn't you hedge by betting Any 7 for $50? Or is losing that $50 on the point ruin the return?
Depending on the table min…you could regress but no take the iron cross completely off. That way you still keep making money on the long rolls. The only shooters you lose on is those folks who roll several points, which isn’t that often. You could even headgear your come out roll and add another hit to cover that hedge.
Based on your $200 Don't Pass wager, just getting a Don't Pass Point is costly. 7 & 11 are made 8 ways out of 36. (Loss of $1600) 2 & 3 are made 3 ways. (Win of $600) Therefore, $1600 - $600 is a $1000 loss over 36 possible rolls. Make a comment if you know how to avoid 7 or 11 on the comeout, we can start our own business.
I’m here
@@OutDaRoof Do You Have a Practical Way To Avoid The 7 or 11. If so Please PM Me.
Most casinos won't let you reduce you pass line or don't pass bets. Only allow increase.
Jacob love this strategy. Question, once you bet DP if your not the shooter, I know you can pull this bet. I didn’t think you could lower the DP bet to a different amount. I thought it was all or nothing?
You can alway pull down or lower your dp, but he forgot to explain one thing...NEVER DO THAT! The casino would love to see u lower it or take it down that's exactly why it's allowed, since u are already past the coming out. All u have to do is make a place or a buy bet on the point number to guarantee u win more money either way and that amount can be adjusted at any time during the roll. When he showed the point being a 5 and he bought the dp down from 200 to 25 I just shook my head in disbelief. He put himself in a foolish position to either lose 25 or win 25. That's retarded. He could've just placed the 5 for 150, and he'd win either 10 on the point, or win 50 on the 7out. Why win or lose 25, when u are guaranteed to win 10 or 50? He claimed he was just showing the basic strategy and not side bets, but in my opinion if you're gonna show the strategy show the basic detail of hedging correctly with a place or buy bet. It's absolutely retarded to take or tone down the dp anytime you're past the coming out. I understand u may already be up money, but still, why play foolishly?
Hey ninja ... can you please refrain from the name calling.. you can always disagree or give your opinion. But the name calling is not necessary. We have a good group here please be respectful...Thanks
ATS Landscaping - I second your comment.
The Red come out is a constant and a real threat. Hate to burst your bubble
What are you betting with the other players are rolling
I have been playing this system for a while now. It is a winner for me overall, but some nights that come out roll will burn you down. One night I got hit on the come out 15 out of 20 tries. So now I insure the come out with an any seven one time bet.
yes thats what i thought maybe should be done ,even if say was 100 on dont pass bank roll,then going 25 on 5 30 on 6&8 and 20 on field ,id cover bet that come out at 4/1 for say 20 dollars.
Couple of things (not directed to the OP, but to all in general)...
I would never, Ever, EVER remove a don't bet. Instead, hedge it with a place bet, e.g., place the point with enough to cover the Don't Pass (DP) bet if the point hits. Secondly, if the hardways are just a side game and are not being used for hedging (and it absolutely has no bearing on this strategy), then don't throw good money after bad. I mean, right after you learned that taking odds is the best bet in the casino, you should have learned next that prop bets are the worst. I only use props for hedging in certain systems I use. Lastly, after playing this strategy (which I'm a huge fan of), just out of an abundance of caution I have made it a practice to take down (or turn off) my Iron Cross (IC) bets after two hits. It just seems way too often that you'll hit the point within 1-3 rolls (yeah, yeah, yeah, despite the odds, and despite being a dice controller), and it hurts when that happens (really the only flaw in the strategy). So, expect to collect no more than twice after the Come Out (CO) roll (taking too many chances on making 20 buck each hit isn't worth losing 200 if the point hits), turn off your IC bets, keep your entire DP up and hedged with a sufficient place bet (for a 200 DP, I place 180 on the point (works for all) so I can at least make 20 bucks if big red hits, and little more depending on the payout for the point that is hit), and don't get emotional about a long roll while your IC bets are turned off as if you're losing out on potential winnings. Stick to two rolls and down with a hedge. You can't be mad about what you coulda-woulda-shoulda won, but you'll certainly beat yourself up over what you lose. Finally, know when to walk away.
Couple of things... First of all the " Odds bet" is not the best bet in the casino or on the craps table. Odds do not change the probability. Although using Hardways as a hedge does change the probability, in your favor. The " odds bet" will break completely even over time, and you will always be the loser over time on the passline...because of probability. The best bet on the Craps table is the Dont Pass or Dont come. On the comeout you have 3 ways to win, 8 ways to lose, 1 way to tie and 24 ways to be the favorite by setting a point. Once the point is set, 4 of the numbers can be affected by the Hardway hedge. So the best bet in the casino is A Dont point of 4 or 10, with a hard way hedge. Exactly 2 combinations of dice beat you and 7 combinations are winners.
If you play this in conjunction with place bets you will cover your DONT risk very quickly.all the while being safe from the 7
@@wagermethis Agreed! Mostly. I still only see the hardways as a side game. If we're going to hedge the DP on the CO, I would consider hopping the 7s for $10 each and not worry about covering the not-so-frequent Yo. This doesn't reduce it to 2 ways to lose on the CO, but it minimizes it, such that if the CO is a loser, it essentially covers all but $70 of the DP loss (that is, lose 70 versus 200). Anything else and I'm out $30, which I can make up with two hits and down as I previously described (tempting to go three hits and down, hoping for big red instead of the point, which is the bad number now). I'll roll this out and see if I change my mind about it. 🤔 I'm a dark side player and I really do like playing the IC thru the DP.
Thanks for the vid! Great as always!
I tried some stuff and stuff. I looked into laying the 10 to hedge the DP on the CO, but decided that hopping the 7s is better (in it's own ways). I think one will ultimately lose less over the longrun with this hedge than using the hardways to hedge, but don't let that stop you from playing the hardways as a side game. It's just not part of this stragey. The's the beauty of Craps -- many games in one box, just pick the game(s) you want to play and roll. I scaled the bets down and thought I throw this out there for the low bankroll players that are still reading this thread.
Start with a $200 bankroll. $40 DP for the CO, and hop the 7's for $4 each, and keep 'em up until you hit a point. $10 level IC, thus get in the Field for $10, Place the 5 for $10, Place the the 6 and 8 for $12 each; no nead to place the 5, 6, or 8 if it is the point. I won't push my two hits and down, in fact, since the layout is scaled down I don't mind risking as many as 4 rolls. In any case, just beware the point and take down when you want. Obviously a 7 before the point is the best scenario. Once the IC comes down, hedge the point with enough to cover the DP, e.g., $36 on the 6 and 8, $30 on the other box numbers. Then roll it out until the point or big red hits. Rinse and repeat.
I showed this to a brand new Craps player and he already loves it. It fits his wallet and even if he loses his entire bankroll due to crappy back-to-back point rolls or come out Yo's, he should still be able to play a long time. We're headed to a casino tonight. Shout out to Spirit Lake Resort and Casino in Devils Lake, ND!
Enjoy!
@@ThePepperfly Jeff do you have an email? Maybe we can exchange ideas?
@@joev.7909 I'll DM you. 😎
Jake up where can I find chip racks plastic black?
Walmart
being a controlled dice person shooting is fine with this but what about the next shooter? i have to wait till my turn to do this again?
That's all up to you. I never go to the casino with one play
I tried this strat out on random shooters and after 3 hits on iron cross I switch to $44 inside and play to the 7. And I made $966 on 4 shooters.
yo... did i miscount 50 on the 5 60 each on the six-eight and 20 in the field doesnt that add to 190. how didthat come out to 200 to pay the dont on the first round?
Not sure, I may have missed something.
Can you hedge the dont on the come out? Maybe a yo and hop the 7s.
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Yes you can place donts. It makes it a no lose situation
I find that this is a winner sometimes and a loser other times. Of course no system is immune from a bad roll. A 7 or 11 on the come out does happen, you can be the controlled shooter but when the dice hit the wall and flip anything is possible. The other problem is hitting the repeaters within three rolls which wipe out the DP. I have seen several repeaters hitting two or three points in a row. I propose a better solution of starting with inside place bets. It would be $132 inside ($36 on the 6&8, $30 on the 5&9) (this is for a $5 table, scale it up as needed). You will probably need between $500 and a $1,000 bank roll. If I get one hit, I win $42 and regress to a $39 iron cross (2 units each on the 5,6&8 and a $5 field) for two rolls, after 2 IC hits take all down which usually wins around $50 (If I am up a lot I may gamble staying up on the IC with pressing on the 5,6,&8 but even then I am prone to take it all down after 2 to 4 presses of each number). Since the inside numbers hit 3x more often than the seven, I tend to move ahead and this is without any controlled shooting (if you can actually control the dice this system would be a real big money maker). One of the beauties of this idea is that you don't lose on a come out 11 as only the seven can take down your place bets (we have all seen back to back Yo when trying to hit a number for a DP, it happens). I tried the system in this video several times with mixed results and have tried the system I described above dozens of times and I got significantly more wins - maybe I was just lucky.
Everything you said is true. From my experience playing through the Dont out paces just playing inside. Because you dont actually have that many comeout losers. Sure there can be a bad run but you are always playing against the hardest number to beat. You have to win 3 hits to cover your bets, even taking them down, if you repeat the same system on the next shooter, you are still at the mercy of the 7 for atleast one more hit. The reason the craps table still exists is playing against the 7, if everyone quit playing against the 7 the casino would change the rules.
@@wagermethis I just got done running this video system several more times with the same results and I am a betting man, run both systems at the same time for 10 to 20 points and see which one comes out ahead. I would bet the DP does not out pace it and in the long run it would not not even be close!
@@RC6790 it will because on the rolls you lose on the 7 this strategy will win
@@wagermethis Actually you will lose on come out 7s, too, but you also lose on repeating the points. I only need duck the come out 7 but you have to duck the come out 7 and the repeating points. I will give you the YO is more than balanced by the 2 and 3. I have had wins and loses with both systems but I am farther ahead with the place bets with one win and regress. I think it is a good challenge to work both ways which I am going to continue to do. I learn a lot from your ideas, don't get me wrong I am not just a critic, I am simply looking for the best return in the long haul.
after 3 rolls on 5 and 9 and you pull down just place it for 150 then you are guaranteed a win
Like I told Alex this is a side move you're talking about. I'm just trying to show the strategies in this Video. you like that side move do it. There are many other side moves you could do that are just as effective if not more effective. Remember once you've established a don't you're the favorite. The either way I'm just trying to show the strategy
Why not just lay the 4 or 10 instead and combine it with the iron cross? That way instead of letting the don’t dictate the number you’re trying to avoid, you can just choose for yourself.
I have made about 200 videos on what your talking abbnout
Dodge come out 7bylaying180 across back wall . 7 hits make 100 collars minus 10dont pass bet. Max lay on don't pass. Point his CAN recover by increasing don't pass bet or rely on probility to overcome losses by winning don't pass more times than losing.
Dice control is such a joke lol. First, most people can't throw the dice without it rolling on its side. Second, the instant it hits the back wall, it's going to knock the dice over in multiple directions, including the side. Why do you think casinos let "dice controllers" shoot the dice?
advice vs none dice control players when its there roll
The iron don't. 😁
When the point is a 5 why don't you use the 9?
Maybe because you got the 9 covered in the Field?
After 30 plus years snd looking at all the statistics I can tell you “controlled shooting” is a myth. Both the dice and the tables are perfectly designed to prevent it. Love your channel and your strategies. Mostly because of your honesty showing successes and failures. Having said that there is no such thing as controlled shooting of dice. At the very best you might call it influencing. Even that it’s questionable. I’ve seen so called control shooters get passed the dice and point seven out three or four times in a row. Bottom line the statistics just don’t support it. So maybe err on the side of integrity, and refer to it at best as influencing
You had me interested until you said you were controlled shooter, which is total crap, control shooting does not exist, if it did it would be illegal. There's no way can you control the dice with the backboard being set up the way it is. Impossible all it is is pure luck.
You can’t regress your bet if you are shooting
yes you can, but some casinos may have different rules on this. Most places will let you adjust your dont down to nothing because you are in the advantage.
@@wagermethis well I guess it’s different casinos because at mine if you are the shooter you can’t do anything to your bet if you are rolling because it’s a contract bet but on random shooters you can take it down
@@education654321 Have you tried to take it down or are you just assuming that. Because I bet they let you take it down, As long as you're gonna play a pass line in its place
@@wagermethis no when I play the don’t pass line and I’m rolling they won’t let you take it down where I’m at. I’ve tried that’s why I’m saying this. Even on the bubble crap it won’t let you take down your don’t pass line bet if you are the shooter. But maybe it’s different where you at
@@education654321 yeah bubble machines are tricky. But most casinos will let you, your casino is odd
You can alway pull down or lower your dp, but he forgot to explain one thing...NEVER DO THAT! I'm not sure why he showed something ridiculous like that. No offense to him, but the casino would love to see u lower it or take it down that's exactly why it's allowed, since u are already past the coming out. All u have to do is make a place or a buy bet on the point number to guarantee u win more money either way and that amount can be adjusted at any time during the roll. When he showed the point being a 5 and he brought the dp down from 200 to 25 I just shook my head in disbelief. He put himself in a foolish position to either lose 25 or win 25. That's retarded. He could've just placed the 5 for 150, and he'd win either 10 on the point, or win 50 on the 7out. Why win or lose 25, when u are guaranteed to win 10 or 50? He claimed he was just showing the basic strategy and not side bets, but in my opinion if you're gonna show the strategy show the basic detail of hedging correctly with a place or buy bet. It's absolutely retarded to take or tone down the dp anytime you're past the coming out. It's horrible to even show that or suggest that cause now people will be doing that after watching and I understand u may already be up money, but still, why play foolishly?
This is a very strong opinion. While I do agree mostly about never taking down the DONT bet, lowering it can make sense in certain instances. But you are entitled to your opinion. Placing a DONT to create a win both ways is a good play, I agree with that, but what if you had met your profit goal by putting the $175 back in your rack, that makes sense to do then doesn't it? Either way, thank you for your support.
@@wagermethis no, because you are up, you're right, but it makes no sense to lower your dp by any amount at all. Mathematically there's absolutely no instance in which it makes sense. You can ALWAYS place the number to make the same gain but paid better in many instances. I can give u a million examples on this, but u can't give me even one instance in which lowering or taking down the dp can pay better than placing the number. I'll pay u if u can give me just one example ...I'll wait ✋and you'll realize I'm right. I'm never rude, just keeping u educated, I'm a mathematician. It's like placing the 4 or 10 for more than $10 instead of simply buying and paying the vig, you see sir?
No offense sir, but it's not an opinion, it's a mathematical fact just like 2 plus 2 is 4, there's no debate. I promise you cannot give me one single example of lowering or removing the dp in a way that will beat in payout placing that point number. After u think long and hard about it you'll agree 👍. I just want u to see eventually it's fact and not opinion this way we can all profit more intelligently together.
@@wagermethis I see your point though that you're up already so who cares right? My point is that it's like placing the 4 or 10 for 100 bucks instead of buying it...you see, it's like if I just found 100 dollars on the ground, and then I walk over to mailbox and put 2 dollars in it for no apparent reason other than I'm rich now...
@@thecalendarninja What if you didnt have the money in your rack to place it? What then. There are instances, and circumstances. One thing I have learned about craps is it is a game full of opinions, some people prefer lightside, some darkside. Some people use House Edge to bet some dont. Some people will not take Dont bets on 6 and 8 and some people never take there dont down. Its all preference and opinion. Play the way that makes you feel comfortable. But YES you are right from a mathematical stand point, placing it in a fashion that you win on any outcome is a great play.
this is more precisely "playing the iron cross with a hedge" not from the DONT
SAME. CHANCE. FOR. EVERY. ROLL. HOWBOUT. RUN. IT FOREVER. 50 A POP