We've been fortunate enough to receive some feedback from a highly experienced and very well respected mechanic on this video, which I'll share here: 1) Rotor indexing - mark the disc rotor and a lug stud prior to removal of the disc, so that you can reinstate it in the same position - reduces possibility of runout. Runout is a condition where a mechanical component doesn't rotate exactly in line with the main axis, and it should be minimised wherever possible. For example, maximum runout for the front or rear disc brakes is 0.15mm (0.0059 in) as per the factory service manual. 2) After removing diff drain plug, inspect for metal fragments stuck to the magnet that can indicate wear, e.g. of the differential or axles. If diff drain plug is not magnetic, replace with a magnetic plug, which are readily available. 3) After cleaning the spindle on the axle housing, inspect the area where the seal runs for corrosion/damage. The rear spindle is part of the axle housing (not replaceable like the front spindles). If wear grooves or corrosion are significant, Terrain Tamer make a heavy-duty cassette style labyrinth oil seal, where the seal runs on itself rather than the spindle and can be used here. 4) When greasing the bearings, revolve the bearing on itself to ensure full coverage (sometimes air can pop out). 5) When adjusting new bearings, revolve the hub as well as moving back and forward. Additionally, to share an important response to a viewer comment - the car shown has the factory rear LSD, however if your 80/105 series has a rear locker, lock the differential to ensure both axles will be free to slide all the way back in on re-assembly. If not locked and axle is removed, some locking differentials have parts that may 'float' in the housing and block the axle shaft from being reinstated.
Mate, you have a gift with explaining clearly, the steps involved in doing the job, covering everything. I would like to see more videos of other repairs. Well done.
This is probably the best video I've seen on this subject. Most others have either skipped bits or they have some area they have prep'd before. This video shows you how to actually do it in great detail. Keep up the good work and long live the 80 series !
Excellent presentation throughout, Please don’t hate me for saying that releasing the wheel stand from under the car is not a smart thing to do. I know it has the wheel height, however there are guys that work on other lower cars that may just make that mistake. Only trying to assist with this comment. When I coat the gasket I use the plastic bag it came in as a matt, so it doesn’t make a mess & it helps to coat it evenly. Also when fitting the gasket its a lesson for young players to take your time and ease the gasket on & over the bolt threads on a clock face rotation. You can be very proud of what you have put together here & your other instructional videos, as they are clear & concise which them easy to follow and that offers confidence to anyone wishing to learn from a well tutored demonstration.
Simple and clear instructions. I need to do the seals on both sides of my rear axle as they have been weeping since I acquired the vehicle. Now I know what to expect it appears less daunting than I had been led to believe. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
Hey I know this comment is 2 years after the release but wanted to let you know I followed these steps exactly and bought all the same items from the video and did this job myself. I’m far from a mechanic, just like trying to learn new things on my 80 and I was able to get this done in 3 days. Snapped a bolt off in the knuckle housing and had to take it to a machine shop to get it removed but other than that smooth sailing. I also replaced my entire brake system along with this since I was stuck in there. Cannot thank you enough for this video, it’s absolutely perfect.
Great video and a big help as I get stuck into replacing the wheel bearings on our 80. You're very clear and meticulous in your descriptions. Camera angles are great too. Thanks
Excellent video. Just a heads up that when fitting the new inner grease seal to the hub you can use the larger of the old bearing races which sits over the seal lip and allows you to use the seal and bearing setting drift without risking damaging the seal.
Nice work, I did mine last night but to install the hub seal I used the old outer bearing race to knock it in, also I found a number 2 Phillips head kept slipping out and a number 3 worked much better.
You are amazing my friend! Thank you for the clear and thorough info on how to do the bearing change. I will be doing the bearing and hand brake change.
Mate, really..a very nice and good informative video. I recently bought my 80, and never expected a video like this existed. Now I'm really confident. You just got subscribed 👍👍 thank you so much!
I found you from Aussie Arvo channel and subscribed to you instantly. I find your process and method of explanation really easy to follow as it builds confidence in unexperienced people like myself to feel competent to actually do the job on my own. THANK YOU HEAPS.
Thanks Padma, glad you found us and thanks for letting us know where from. Thanks a lot for watching and subscribing - there's plenty more to come! Cheers
Wow just discovered this channel. This video was well filmed and exceptionally well explained for each step. Thanks a ton. Will review your other vids now before I go back to my 80. Cheers.
@@2ndGearLow Perfect. I’m sure the rear bearing video with be the best out there. The front bearing video is hands down the best video for the job on the net!!!! I think I’ve watch them all and yours by far, is the most helpful and informative. Keep up the great work!!!!
For those who have a weaker hand brake, now is a good opportune time to throw in some of them larger bone top plates, cheap eBay around $20 bucks. Shit easy to instal. They do give you a bit more grip to lever moment. Cheap necessary upgrade, I do believe. Top Aussie video, English I understand straight to the point-fella
You are showing us amazing methods. Personally, I have 105 series. When I grease bearings, I warm up the bearings and grease, then put bearings into hot grease in pot, and take them out let the grease cool down over and inside the bearings. It is only my way doing. I consider it that grease reaches everywhere inside the bearings. What do you think about it? Greatings from Mongolia.
Another great video, I recall someone using the old bearing race to reseat new bearing seal, with reducing bearing race diameter with saw cut to suit(fit over seal to tap in even)
Thanks for watching! That's right, we actually demonstrate this method you've described in our 100 series front Wheel Bearings video, and made reference to that video when doing the 80 series front Wheel Bearings within the swivel hub rebuild. It does work, however it is much easier with the bearing and seal driver and I highly recommend them as a tool worth buying given the great variety of uses
Those two phillip screws are really hard to take out. I had to heat them with a torch in a can in order to loosen them. On first attempt, I had stripped one of the screws. Is there something wrong when it is this tight? Those screws look like they are lubricated.
Thanks for watching! They can be quite tight, best to get your hands on an impact screwdriver in that case to try to loosen it without stripping the head. Also important to use the correct sized Phillips bit to reduce the chance of stripping. The screws are not lubricated, but there is a lot of grease around this area - we clean the screws up with brake & parts cleaner before reinstating
One question regarding the inner seal. The workshop manual (Gregory's) shows the seal going on with the rubber flange going inside not outside. (15:28 in your video) Any Ideas on why please?
Hi Paul, I haven't seen the Gregory's manual, so can't comment on that, however the Toyota FSM section for replacing the rear axle oil seal has a diagram showing the direction as shown in this video (tapered side inwards). The exploded diagram on partsouq.com (resource recommended to me by our local Toyota parts department) for these specific models also shows the same seal orientation as above
@@2ndGearLow OK thankyou. I'll have a look. It appears that there may be different types. It would be helpful if they stamped the seal with "Inner" or "outer. 🙂On you detailed video, I looked at some others this morning and they seem to show how wonderful they are at doing the job and are not interested in giving any detail. So again, keep up the great and helpful work please.
Hi mate, thanks for watching. The front is quite a different set-up to the rear, however the wheel bearings themselves are the same and the process of packing the bearing and replacing the outer races are the same. Check out our Swivel hub rebuild video, which includes replacement of the front wheel bearings as part of a larger job
Gday Mate , Not trying to be smart as I am trying to learn . But why did you take the ABS sensor out ? You have given me conference to have a go with my car
Hey Dean, unfortunately this video isn't targeted at models with drum brakes, it's actually a different kit (WBK2) for those. We'd recommend getting your hands on a copy of the Toyota Factory Service Manual for your year model if you can, so you don't miss any steps
Hey absolutely love what you guys are doing! Been watching your all your videos. So I’m doing both sides atm, I grt to finish the project and when I’m putting my Axel back in, it fits in what feels nice but isn’t quite on the gasket? There’s a gap which I can see! Which I have pulled this out and re done the whole video multiple multiple times!!! Any advice? I’ve tried pushing everything further and further in. Any advice would help heaps cheers
The screws holding the lock nut in position were extremely tight in my case (I suspect they just got stuck over time after not being done for a while). I ended up needing an impact screw driver (the manual type that you hit with a hammer) to get them undone and needed to replace two screws due to partially stripped philips head, so I don't fully strip it next time. Toyota part number for the new screw is 42419-60011. Might be worth having spares handy, or having an impact screwdriver if you plan to complete the job in one go. Amazing video mate, love your work.
Hi Cam, thanks a lot for your feedback and letting us know how you went. Interesting to hear about the lock nut screws, I found they were reasonably tight too - great of you to provide that part number in case others need to replace the screws. Thank you
Awesome video('s), very informative and well done. One suggestion/point of difference. I always like to put some blue loctite/thread locker on my caliper bolts for added insurance. Did you also adjust the handbrake? That would make another great video 😊 keep up the great content! 🙏👍
Hi Jon, my understanding is that the 100 series with 2UZ-FE (V8 Petrol engine) would commonly be referred to as UZJ100, where FJXX is used for the earlier 6-cylinder Cruisers. The 100 Series comes with a different rear axle set up to that shown, i.e. different from the 80 or 105 series. We're planning to do a future video similar to this for the UZJ100 rear wheel bearings and seals, so keep an eye out!
Hey mate, this video is awesome, the easy to view angles, step by step process, and even socket sizes and tools needed. Just wondering, can you recommend any of your videos for a wheel bearing change of a 1987 75's series troopy? I'm doing as much research and prep to do all four wheels/bearing sets in a couple of months. Just finished a Big Lap and want to do them all myself. Thanks a bunch! Cheers,
Hey Jock, thanks a lot for your feedback! We're glad you enjoyed it. Unfortunately this will be the closest video we have to that, as we don't have access to a 75 series. I can recommend a great resource though - partsouq.com. Pop your Troopy VIN in there and then you can see exploded diagrams of basically the entire vehicle, specific to your car, along with genuine part numbers. If you navigate to the "REAR AXLE SHAFT & HUB" diagram, you will see a visual representation of how it all fits together. For torque specifications and steps required, as well as oil and grease specifications, best to try to get your hands on a copy of the Toyota factory service manual if you can, which you may be able to find online. It looks like the Terrain Tamer kit for rear wheel bearings in your 1987 Troopy would be the WBK2 (drum brake models only) and you would use 1x kit per side. Hope that helps you out
@@2ndGearLow Guys, thank you so much for the detailed response to my question. It's a huge help! I'll keep at the research so I'm ready to hook into the bearing job in a few months from now. Again, thank you! Keep it up with the videos! Best "how to's" I've seen! Cheers,
@@2ndGearLow Hey guys! Thanks again for that. We do have the service manual, but it's in storage while we see my partners family in the UK. Just one quick question, the terrain tamer website says for HJ75 11/1984- there's one kit for front and then one kit for rear, but the actual kit is the same for both and says "drum brake models only on rear". Does that sound correct, that the same bearing kit would work for both front and rear? I do believe we have drum brakes on our rear wheels. Thank you again, and sorry if that's a really basic question. Cheers,
No problem Jock, you're too kind! Yes I would trust what TT have on their website and that doesn't surprise me as it's a similar scenario for the 80 series too. I spoke to the staff there previously and they mentioned offering both the front and rear gaskets within one of the 80 wheel bearing kits so that it can be carried as a spare for either the front or rear (bearings are same front and rear, gaskets are different, on some models). You'll probably find you have extra gaskets in the kit if it's similar to the 80, that you can keep for the front axle
Hi 2nd Gear Low. if the Rear differential is an LSD. in a 4x4 does that mean both differentials are LSD? I have a Toyota Land Cruser 80 series, and the rear differential is an LSD can you help me. it has a sticker on the back differential use LSD oil only.
Hi John, thanks for watching. We're not too knowledgeable on all international models, but here in Australia there were no factory front LSDs in the 80 series. Most 80 series came with open front diff and rear LSD, otherwise factory locked front and rear. The advantage of using an oil such as Castrol Axle Limited Slip 90 is that it's suitable for use in open diffs and LSDs, so you can use the same oil for front and rear if you have that set up. If you want to be sure, you can enter your 17-digit VIN (found on stamped plate in engine bay on firewall) into partsouq.com and navigate to the front axle / front differential exploded diagrams, which will show you what was installed in your specific vehicle. We use this website every time we work on cars, it's free to use and we highly recommend it, having been recommended to me by Toyota themselves. Hope that helps!
Toyota dealer just quoted me $1200 to replace wheel bearings. This is during and in addition to a job to replace rotors and pads. Any ideas why having the dealer do wheel bearings costs so much?
Hi Ted, I'm not sure where you are based or what currency this is, but suspect a lot of that cost would be labour. If that is to do both front and rear wheel bearings (all four corners) that does not seem unreasonable, as where we are based in Australia Toyota mechanics are charged out at somewhere around $160 per hour, meaning you would only be getting around 1-2hrs per side once considering the inflated price they charge for genuine parts at dealerships too. We choose to pick up the genuine Toyota parts from Partsouq.com and pay international shipping, which still works out significantly cheaper than buying from Toyota Australia in most cases, and then install the parts ourselves
I’m going to attempt to do this job myself😬 can I ask, how can I get the accurate newton meters? Amazing video by the way, I’ll be looking at servicing my 80 on my own.
Thanks Clark, great to see you having a go. You can purchase a proper spring tension gauge which is calibrated in the range specified (28-57N for the preload), for example from scientific stores. The gauge should be aligned as shown in the picture on screen, then pulled in the direction shown to measure the amount of force it takes to start the hub turning. Otherwise some people choose to use a fish scale or similar, which is essentially a spring gauge measuring in kg force, and then you can convert this kg force to N using 1kgf = 9.8N for example
@@2ndGearLow thanks mate. Your videos are so helpful and it’s saving me a ton of money from taking it to the mechanics for a regular service. Keep the videos coming. You should create a Patreon acc as well😊
Awesome teaching brother, thank you. Curious, if the FJ80's in Australia are any different than the U.S. FJ80 mechanically speaking? I have a 95 FZJ80 and about to start this project myself. Thanks for any info. Subscribed!
Hi J R, thanks for subscribing, we really appreciate it! Over here in Aus we typically refer to the earlier 3FE model 80s as the FJ80, then the FZJ80 is the 8/1992 onwards 1FZ-FE model. There are some differences in trim levels offered in different regions, e.g. over here the top trim is 'Sahara', which comes with factory front/rear locking differentials among other things. There is also a VX trim in some regions which are largely similar to the Sahara. We also have a lot of diesel 80 series over here, with the most sought after being the 24-valve 1HD-FT later model turbo diesels, as these typically get much better fuel economy than the petrol FZJ80s. For the most part though, you should find the US spec FJ80 (1FZ-FE engine) to be the same as the one shown in the video, which is the 1997 GXL FZJ80 trim in Aus spec.
We've been fortunate enough to receive some feedback from a highly experienced and very well respected mechanic on this video, which I'll share here:
1) Rotor indexing - mark the disc rotor and a lug stud prior to removal of the disc, so that you can reinstate it in the same position - reduces possibility of runout. Runout is a condition where a mechanical component doesn't rotate exactly in line with the main axis, and it should be minimised wherever possible. For example, maximum runout for the front or rear disc brakes is 0.15mm (0.0059 in) as per the factory service manual.
2) After removing diff drain plug, inspect for metal fragments stuck to the magnet that can indicate wear, e.g. of the differential or axles. If diff drain plug is not magnetic, replace with a magnetic plug, which are readily available.
3) After cleaning the spindle on the axle housing, inspect the area where the seal runs for corrosion/damage. The rear spindle is part of the axle housing (not replaceable like the front spindles). If wear grooves or corrosion are significant, Terrain Tamer make a heavy-duty cassette style labyrinth oil seal, where the seal runs on itself rather than the spindle and can be used here.
4) When greasing the bearings, revolve the bearing on itself to ensure full coverage (sometimes air can pop out).
5) When adjusting new bearings, revolve the hub as well as moving back and forward.
Additionally, to share an important response to a viewer comment - the car shown has the factory rear LSD, however if your 80/105 series has a rear locker, lock the differential to ensure both axles will be free to slide all the way back in on re-assembly. If not locked and axle is removed, some locking differentials have parts that may 'float' in the housing and block the axle shaft from being reinstated.
Mate, you have a gift with explaining clearly, the steps involved in doing the job, covering everything. I would like to see more videos of other repairs. Well done.
Thanks Rick, we really appreciate your kind feedback!
This is probably the best video I've seen on this subject. Most others have either skipped bits or they have some area they have prep'd before. This video shows you how to actually do it in great detail. Keep up the good work and long live the 80 series !
Thanks for this Paul, we're glad to hear you appreciate the level of detail!
Very well filmed and clear steps
Thank you for watching!
Excellent presentation throughout, Please don’t hate me for saying that releasing the wheel stand from under the car is not a smart thing to do. I know it has the wheel height, however there are guys that work on other lower cars that may just make that mistake. Only trying to assist with this comment. When I coat the gasket I use the plastic bag it came in as a matt, so it doesn’t make a mess & it helps to coat it evenly. Also when fitting the gasket its a lesson for young players to take your time and ease the gasket on & over the bolt threads on a clock face rotation. You can be very proud of what you have put together here & your other instructional videos, as they are clear & concise which them easy to follow and that offers confidence to anyone wishing to learn from a well tutored demonstration.
Simple and clear instructions. I need to do the seals on both sides of my rear axle as they have been weeping since I acquired the vehicle. Now I know what to expect it appears less daunting than I had been led to believe. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
Hi Shiftyg, thanks for watching mate and we appreciate your feedback!
Hey I know this comment is 2 years after the release but wanted to let you know I followed these steps exactly and bought all the same items from the video and did this job myself. I’m far from a mechanic, just like trying to learn new things on my 80 and I was able to get this done in 3 days. Snapped a bolt off in the knuckle housing and had to take it to a machine shop to get it removed but other than that smooth sailing. I also replaced my entire brake system along with this since I was stuck in there.
Cannot thank you enough for this video, it’s absolutely perfect.
Thanks Alex, we appreciate your feedback, and great to hear this video helped you to get the job done!
Great video and a big help as I get stuck into replacing the wheel bearings on our 80. You're very clear and meticulous in your descriptions. Camera angles are great too. Thanks
Thanks for watching! We're glad to hear you appreciate the work we put into these areas, thank you very much
WOW...another fantastic video and I have now officially run out of excuses to do this job!
Thanks for the feedback Kevin!
Excelent video! Very well described. The only doubt I kept is why you don´t have much more suscribers! Keep doing this. Thank you.
Excellent video. You carried out that job perfectly. Well done & well explained. Thank you!
Thanks for watching mate, and we appreciate your feedback
Excellent video. Just a heads up that when fitting the new inner grease seal to the hub you can use the larger of the old bearing races which sits over the seal lip and allows you to use the seal and bearing setting drift without risking damaging the seal.
Hi mate, thanks for watching, and sounds like a good tip
Nice work, I did mine last night but to install the hub seal I used the old outer bearing race to knock it in, also I found a number 2 Phillips head kept slipping out and a number 3 worked much better.
Hi mate, thanks for watching, and we appreciate your feedback on the screwdriver size
You are amazing my friend! Thank you for the clear and thorough info on how to do the bearing change. I will be doing the bearing and hand brake change.
Thanks for the feedback!
BEST vidéo on the subject! Thanks for showing me which way those grease sels do go in!
Thanks Frogmobile, we're glad it helped
Mate, really..a very nice and good informative video. I recently bought my 80, and never expected a video like this existed. Now I'm really confident. You just got subscribed 👍👍 thank you so much!
Thanks for watching and we really appreciate you subscribing!
I found you from Aussie Arvo channel and subscribed to you instantly. I find your process and method of explanation really easy to follow as it builds confidence in unexperienced people like myself to feel competent to actually do the job on my own. THANK YOU HEAPS.
Thanks Padma, glad you found us and thanks for letting us know where from. Thanks a lot for watching and subscribing - there's plenty more to come! Cheers
Best instructional videos on TH-cam!!!
Thanks Robbie!
Wow just discovered this channel. This video was well filmed and exceptionally well explained for each step. Thanks a ton. Will review your other vids now before I go back to my 80. Cheers.
Hi Bmonck, thanks for watching and we're glad to hear you're enjoying our vids on the 80!
Best videos ever for the 80 series...thanks!
Thanks again Kurt!
Dude! Sensational explanations and tutorial. Best service tech seen! Thanks👍👍
Thank you for watching mate!
Great videos. I discovered your channel yesterday. I enjoyed a few videos so far. Great work. Wish you much success. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for the feedback Mirwais!
Mate, nice work, very clear and well narrated thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback!
Felicitaciones desde Medellín Colombia. muy útil video. Tienes un video donde cambias los delanteros?
Brilliant. Really helpful. Would love to see a similar video done by you guys for the 100 series rear hub bearings.
Thank you, we're glad you enjoyed. Yes, rear wheel bearings for the 100 Series is on our list, stay tuned!
@@2ndGearLow Perfect. I’m sure the rear bearing video with be the best out there. The front bearing video is hands down the best video for the job on the net!!!! I think I’ve watch them all and yours by far,
is the most helpful and informative. Keep up the great work!!!!
Brilliant tutorial thanks. Saved for future use.
Thanks for the feedback! Be sure to check out our other videos on the Cruisers
For those who have a weaker hand brake, now is a good opportune time to throw in some of them larger bone top plates, cheap eBay around $20 bucks. Shit easy to instal. They do give you a bit more grip to lever moment. Cheap necessary upgrade, I do believe. Top Aussie video, English I understand straight to the point-fella
Fantastic, thank you so much! I am using this as a guide for my fj62, since it has a full float rear axle similar to the 80 series.
Thanks for the feedback Bill! Good luck with the job.
Very useful video, thank you very much. Only comment is there is absolutely no need to remove the ABS sensors
Love your vids mate makes me understand heaps better
Thanks a lot Miah!
Great video mate, very helpful thankyou.
No problem Xavier, thank you for watching & commenting
Awesome! Best instructable in tubeland! 👌
Thanks heaps Max!
You are showing us amazing methods. Personally, I have 105 series. When I grease bearings, I warm up the bearings and grease, then put bearings into hot grease in pot, and take them out let the grease cool down over and inside the bearings. It is only my way doing. I consider it that grease reaches everywhere inside the bearings. What do you think about it? Greatings from Mongolia.
Another great video, I recall someone using the old bearing race to reseat new bearing seal, with reducing bearing race diameter with saw cut to suit(fit over seal to tap in even)
Thanks for watching! That's right, we actually demonstrate this method you've described in our 100 series front Wheel Bearings video, and made reference to that video when doing the 80 series front Wheel Bearings within the swivel hub rebuild. It does work, however it is much easier with the bearing and seal driver and I highly recommend them as a tool worth buying given the great variety of uses
this is a fantastic guide, well done
Thanks Brenton, much appreciated
Very detailed with concise info 👍 thanks :)
Thanks Colleen!
Great instructional video legend 👍🏼
Thanks Harry, we appreciate your feedback!
Just a fantastic video 😊
Thanks Brett! Plenty more to come.
Excellent video. Thank you for posting.
Great to hear your feedback, thanks for watching!
Legend will be trying this this weekend cheers
Thanks mate, hope it goes well!
@@2ndGearLow Is every part included in that kit other than tools and grease?
👍very interesting and informative video, thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for your feedback Mark
Excellent video. You're thorough and detailed in your delivery of the subject matter. I do the same with my videos. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Timmy, we really appreciate that and can see you put a lot of time and effort into your videos as well! Happy wrenching to you as well
Well done. This is a really good video. Great detail, pace and explanation. Thank you! 🛻
Thank you for watching and appreciate your comment!
Awesome video with all the right info making the job easy. Thanks!
Thanks Ward, really appreciate you watching and leaving us your feedback
Those two phillip screws are really hard to take out. I had to heat them with a torch in a can in order to loosen them. On first attempt, I had stripped one of the screws. Is there something wrong when it is this tight? Those screws look like they are lubricated.
Thanks for watching! They can be quite tight, best to get your hands on an impact screwdriver in that case to try to loosen it without stripping the head. Also important to use the correct sized Phillips bit to reduce the chance of stripping. The screws are not lubricated, but there is a lot of grease around this area - we clean the screws up with brake & parts cleaner before reinstating
One question regarding the inner seal. The workshop manual (Gregory's) shows the seal going on with the rubber flange going inside not outside. (15:28 in your video) Any Ideas on why please?
Hi Paul, I haven't seen the Gregory's manual, so can't comment on that, however the Toyota FSM section for replacing the rear axle oil seal has a diagram showing the direction as shown in this video (tapered side inwards). The exploded diagram on partsouq.com (resource recommended to me by our local Toyota parts department) for these specific models also shows the same seal orientation as above
@@2ndGearLow OK thankyou. I'll have a look. It appears that there may be different types. It would be helpful if they stamped the seal with "Inner" or "outer. 🙂On you detailed video, I looked at some others this morning and they seem to show how wonderful they are at doing the job and are not interested in giving any detail. So again, keep up the great and helpful work please.
Excellent video mate ! 😊
Thanks a lot!
How different of a procedure would doing the front bearings be?
Hi mate, thanks for watching. The front is quite a different set-up to the rear, however the wheel bearings themselves are the same and the process of packing the bearing and replacing the outer races are the same. Check out our Swivel hub rebuild video, which includes replacement of the front wheel bearings as part of a larger job
Gday Mate ,
Not trying to be smart as I am trying to learn . But why did you take the ABS sensor out ?
You have given me conference to have a go with my car
👍thanks for a very informative video.
Thanks for the feedback Mark, happy DIYing!
What are the differences when doing this with drum breaks
Hey Dean, unfortunately this video isn't targeted at models with drum brakes, it's actually a different kit (WBK2) for those. We'd recommend getting your hands on a copy of the Toyota Factory Service Manual for your year model if you can, so you don't miss any steps
Excellent video.
Thanks for the feedback Brenton!
this is helpful thank you. Do the part numbers change if I have factory rear locker?
Great help well explained thx
Appreciate the feedback Neil!
Awesome video! Easy to follow
Thanks H Wick, appreciate your feedback!
Hey absolutely love what you guys are doing! Been watching your all your videos. So I’m doing both sides atm, I grt to finish the project and when I’m putting my Axel back in, it fits in what feels nice but isn’t quite on the gasket? There’s a gap which I can see! Which I have pulled this out and re done the whole video multiple multiple times!!! Any advice? I’ve tried pushing everything further and further in. Any advice would help heaps cheers
Thanks again mate 👍
Thanks for watching Neil
The screws holding the lock nut in position were extremely tight in my case (I suspect they just got stuck over time after not being done for a while).
I ended up needing an impact screw driver (the manual type that you hit with a hammer) to get them undone and needed to replace two screws due to partially stripped philips head, so I don't fully strip it next time.
Toyota part number for the new screw is 42419-60011.
Might be worth having spares handy, or having an impact screwdriver if you plan to complete the job in one go.
Amazing video mate, love your work.
Hi Cam, thanks a lot for your feedback and letting us know how you went. Interesting to hear about the lock nut screws, I found they were reasonably tight too - great of you to provide that part number in case others need to replace the screws. Thank you
Thanks a lot. Merci bcp j'ai beaucoup appris.
Thanks again!
Just subscribed and i'm learning alot🎉
Thanks Alex, we really appreciate that
Awesome video('s), very informative and well done. One suggestion/point of difference. I always like to put some blue loctite/thread locker on my caliper bolts for added insurance. Did you also adjust the handbrake? That would make another great video 😊 keep up the great content! 🙏👍
Is this the same procedure for the 1998 FJ100 series with the 2UZ FE engine?
Hi Jon, my understanding is that the 100 series with 2UZ-FE (V8 Petrol engine) would commonly be referred to as UZJ100, where FJXX is used for the earlier 6-cylinder Cruisers. The 100 Series comes with a different rear axle set up to that shown, i.e. different from the 80 or 105 series. We're planning to do a future video similar to this for the UZJ100 rear wheel bearings and seals, so keep an eye out!
@@2ndGearLow That would be awesome!!!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Just great!
Thanks again
very good video
Thanks for watching Vaughan
So if I just wanted to tighten play in my wheel I could leave wheel on and just remove axel and tighten yes..?
Also I have an auto Lokka in rear.. does that matter?
Hey mate, this video is awesome, the easy to view angles, step by step process, and even socket sizes and tools needed. Just wondering, can you recommend any of your videos for a wheel bearing change of a 1987 75's series troopy? I'm doing as much research and prep to do all four wheels/bearing sets in a couple of months. Just finished a Big Lap and want to do them all myself.
Thanks a bunch!
Cheers,
Hey Jock, thanks a lot for your feedback! We're glad you enjoyed it. Unfortunately this will be the closest video we have to that, as we don't have access to a 75 series. I can recommend a great resource though - partsouq.com. Pop your Troopy VIN in there and then you can see exploded diagrams of basically the entire vehicle, specific to your car, along with genuine part numbers. If you navigate to the "REAR AXLE SHAFT & HUB" diagram, you will see a visual representation of how it all fits together. For torque specifications and steps required, as well as oil and grease specifications, best to try to get your hands on a copy of the Toyota factory service manual if you can, which you may be able to find online. It looks like the Terrain Tamer kit for rear wheel bearings in your 1987 Troopy would be the WBK2 (drum brake models only) and you would use 1x kit per side. Hope that helps you out
@@2ndGearLow Guys, thank you so much for the detailed response to my question. It's a huge help! I'll keep at the research so I'm ready to hook into the bearing job in a few months from now. Again, thank you! Keep it up with the videos! Best "how to's" I've seen! Cheers,
@@2ndGearLow Hey guys! Thanks again for that. We do have the service manual, but it's in storage while we see my partners family in the UK. Just one quick question, the terrain tamer website says for HJ75 11/1984- there's one kit for front and then one kit for rear, but the actual kit is the same for both and says "drum brake models only on rear". Does that sound correct, that the same bearing kit would work for both front and rear? I do believe we have drum brakes on our rear wheels. Thank you again, and sorry if that's a really basic question. Cheers,
No problem Jock, you're too kind! Yes I would trust what TT have on their website and that doesn't surprise me as it's a similar scenario for the 80 series too. I spoke to the staff there previously and they mentioned offering both the front and rear gaskets within one of the 80 wheel bearing kits so that it can be carried as a spare for either the front or rear (bearings are same front and rear, gaskets are different, on some models). You'll probably find you have extra gaskets in the kit if it's similar to the 80, that you can keep for the front axle
Awesome video lads, keep up the good work. Can you recommend anyone to work on my 1997 cruiser locally to Midland WA.
Cheers
Thanks Kev, we really appreciate your feedback! Unfortunately can't help you with a recommendation for Midland area
Excellent, well done and thank you.
Thanks for watching
Hi 2nd Gear Low. if the Rear differential is an LSD. in a 4x4 does that mean both differentials are LSD? I have a Toyota Land Cruser 80 series, and the rear differential is an LSD can you help me. it has a sticker on the back differential use LSD oil only.
Hi John, thanks for watching. We're not too knowledgeable on all international models, but here in Australia there were no factory front LSDs in the 80 series. Most 80 series came with open front diff and rear LSD, otherwise factory locked front and rear. The advantage of using an oil such as Castrol Axle Limited Slip 90 is that it's suitable for use in open diffs and LSDs, so you can use the same oil for front and rear if you have that set up. If you want to be sure, you can enter your 17-digit VIN (found on stamped plate in engine bay on firewall) into partsouq.com and navigate to the front axle / front differential exploded diagrams, which will show you what was installed in your specific vehicle. We use this website every time we work on cars, it's free to use and we highly recommend it, having been recommended to me by Toyota themselves. Hope that helps!
@@2ndGearLow thanks the link was very helpful. and I'm in Perth W.A. too. lol
Excellent video!
Thanks RG Max!
Great video guys! Keep it up 🛠
Thanks for watching Will!
Awesome video thanks !
Thanks for watching mate!
Best vidio ever
Thanks for watching Eddie!
Mate such a helpful video 👌👌👌
Thanks Graham, really appreciate your feedback!
Awesome video very informative keep up the good work 👍
Thanks Philip, really appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment
Toyota dealer just quoted me $1200 to replace wheel bearings. This is during and in addition to a job to replace rotors and pads. Any ideas why having the dealer do wheel bearings costs so much?
Hi Ted, I'm not sure where you are based or what currency this is, but suspect a lot of that cost would be labour. If that is to do both front and rear wheel bearings (all four corners) that does not seem unreasonable, as where we are based in Australia Toyota mechanics are charged out at somewhere around $160 per hour, meaning you would only be getting around 1-2hrs per side once considering the inflated price they charge for genuine parts at dealerships too. We choose to pick up the genuine Toyota parts from Partsouq.com and pay international shipping, which still works out significantly cheaper than buying from Toyota Australia in most cases, and then install the parts ourselves
well done!!!
Thanks for watching Zara
Where can i buy rear bearings?
I’m going to attempt to do this job myself😬 can I ask, how can I get the accurate newton meters? Amazing video by the way, I’ll be looking at servicing my 80 on my own.
Thanks Clark, great to see you having a go. You can purchase a proper spring tension gauge which is calibrated in the range specified (28-57N for the preload), for example from scientific stores. The gauge should be aligned as shown in the picture on screen, then pulled in the direction shown to measure the amount of force it takes to start the hub turning. Otherwise some people choose to use a fish scale or similar, which is essentially a spring gauge measuring in kg force, and then you can convert this kg force to N using 1kgf = 9.8N for example
@@2ndGearLow thanks mate. Your videos are so helpful and it’s saving me a ton of money from taking it to the mechanics for a regular service. Keep the videos coming. You should create a Patreon acc as well😊
The screws on the lock nut is absolutely stuck. Any ideas on how to get this unscrewed?
@@clark_pauga Use an impact screwdriver. Something like this TEKTON 2910
Hey ive seen other put the inner hub seal on upside down with the lip facing inwards. Do you know which way is correct?
Hi, the method shown in the video is the correct seal orientation. Thanks for watching.
@@2ndGearLow thank you!
Good job
Thanks Mukhtar, we appreciate you watching and commenting
Good video thanks
Thanks for watching!
perfect! greeting from Germany :)
Thanks Wojtek! Appreciate you watching and commenting. Greetings from Australia!
Good
awesome !
Glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching
🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for watching Serg!
Thankyou.
No problem, thanks for watching!
excellent
Thanks Trev
👍👍👍❤❤
Great vid get yourself a ball payne hammer
26 newton's..... I only know bert and a patty
Haha... Thanks for watching Arron!
Awesome teaching brother, thank you.
Curious, if the FJ80's in Australia are any different than the U.S. FJ80 mechanically speaking?
I have a 95 FZJ80 and about to start this project myself.
Thanks for any info.
Subscribed!
Hi J R, thanks for subscribing, we really appreciate it! Over here in Aus we typically refer to the earlier 3FE model 80s as the FJ80, then the FZJ80 is the 8/1992 onwards 1FZ-FE model. There are some differences in trim levels offered in different regions, e.g. over here the top trim is 'Sahara', which comes with factory front/rear locking differentials among other things. There is also a VX trim in some regions which are largely similar to the Sahara. We also have a lot of diesel 80 series over here, with the most sought after being the 24-valve 1HD-FT later model turbo diesels, as these typically get much better fuel economy than the petrol FZJ80s. For the most part though, you should find the US spec FJ80 (1FZ-FE engine) to be the same as the one shown in the video, which is the 1997 GXL FZJ80 trim in Aus spec.
@@2ndGearLow Awesome info bro, thank you. I look forward to watching more of your vids. Take care!