Maybe. I am a roofer with an adjusters license but what you and I both know is that Insurance companies have their own set of ideas of what they are going to cut out of your scope during this event. Its been vents, starter strip, ridge, etc that they loop into other items to save the almighty dollar. Well this roofer tries not to let them get away with it and pretty soon will have no recourse. There is a movement by the insurance companies to go through congress with a rider as opposed to legislation to eliminate bad faith lawsuits. This roofer can do all things that you just stated but prefers not to and at all costs try to avoid SF and the good hands people for obvious reasons. You just gave me a great idea, I am going to teach homeowners how to run their own claim. This will be my legacy.
As a female layman who has gone through many roofing nightmares. I can Safely say never ever use OSB for your decking it should always be 3/4 inch plywood, period end of story. OSB is basically a high-end press board. What happens when press board gets wet enough times it becomes spongy and guess what insects live in it especially carpenter ants. If you want a real nightmare be sure to use OSB.
This is not always good advice. 3/4 plywood is considerably heavier than 7/16" OSB. If you live somewhere with large snow-loads, this may be too much weight on your roof.
You gave me insight to something I've never thought of! To ensure someone is on site to get immediate coverage for extras if they are on site and find underlayment issues do to my damages that got me the new roof. My insurance guy said ANYTHING extra had to be pre-approved before done.. but if they find when ripping off the roof.. egads! How does that get approved by the insurance company on the spot as they can't stop the process for x amount of time waiting for a call back for decking etc., and what if the adjuster isn't available at that time? Any suggestions? I am sooooooooooo glad I found your channel. I don't live where you are, but my family member does and I'll be shooting her your information to use in the future. Wow! I'm still looking for information on gutter aprons/drip egdes as I live in Georgia, and I'm pushing back on the salesperson as to how to correctly install! He's saying that a L shape is best all around.. C vs D discussion and he doesn't know what I'm talking about. He is stating they should be flush hard to facia, and I was asking for push out and that purpose is to go in gutters, or needs breathing for rakes... I'll watch and finish this video (already also watched your tips to compare bids/RFPs..) and then off to find if you have discussion on such. What a FIND you are! Please, if you could, talk about what type of space needs to be on eaves and rakes for gutter aprons and drip edges, and C vs D... etc Thanks!
As long as everything is photographed and documented as to why it's necessary, it doesn't have to be pre-approved. That's a scare tactic used by insurance adjusters.
Something like underlayment or decking issues uncovered while replacing a roof, or fixing some other issues that the adjuster overlooked is handled by an insurance claim term called a "supplement". Supplements (or "supplementing") is a pretty normal part of the claim process that usually occurs during the repair when unforeseen problems or damage is discovered. A good example would be while tearing up your roof and underlayment, the roofer discovers a section of decking that is damaged and can't sustain the install of new roofing materials. That decking section then has to be replaced. In that case, you would file a supplement work change order which requires sign-off by the roofing contractor and the homeowner. Often the change order is handled by meeting with the adjuster on-site, demonstrating the reasons for the supplement with photographs or video, and filling out paperwork. The adjuster is the final arbiter of a change order/supplement and whether or not it gets approved and paid out by your insurance.
Maybe. I am a roofer with an adjusters license but what you and I both know is that Insurance companies have their own set of ideas of what they are going to cut out of your scope during this event. Its been vents, starter strip, ridge, etc that they loop into other items to save the almighty dollar. Well this roofer tries not to let them get away with it and pretty soon will have no recourse. There is a movement by the insurance companies to go through congress with a rider as opposed to legislation to eliminate bad faith lawsuits.
This roofer can do all things that you just stated but prefers not to and at all costs try to avoid SF and the good hands people for obvious reasons.
You just gave me a great idea, I am going to teach homeowners how to run their own claim. This will be my legacy.
Great idea. The homeowner should be the one running their own claim, not the roofer.
As a female layman who has gone through many roofing nightmares. I can Safely say never ever use OSB for your decking it should always be 3/4 inch plywood, period end of story. OSB is basically a high-end press board. What happens when press board gets wet enough times it becomes spongy and guess what insects live in it especially carpenter ants. If you want a real nightmare be sure to use OSB.
This is not always good advice. 3/4 plywood is considerably heavier than 7/16" OSB. If you live somewhere with large snow-loads, this may be too much weight on your roof.
You gave me insight to something I've never thought of! To ensure someone is on site to get immediate coverage for extras if they are on site and find underlayment issues do to my damages that got me the new roof. My insurance guy said ANYTHING extra had to be pre-approved before done.. but if they find when ripping off the roof.. egads! How does that get approved by the insurance company on the spot as they can't stop the process for x amount of time waiting for a call back for decking etc., and what if the adjuster isn't available at that time? Any suggestions? I am sooooooooooo glad I found your channel. I don't live where you are, but my family member does and I'll be shooting her your information to use in the future. Wow! I'm still looking for information on gutter aprons/drip egdes as I live in Georgia, and I'm pushing back on the salesperson as to how to correctly install! He's saying that a L shape is best all around.. C vs D discussion and he doesn't know what I'm talking about. He is stating they should be flush hard to facia, and I was asking for push out and that purpose is to go in gutters, or needs breathing for rakes... I'll watch and finish this video (already also watched your tips to compare bids/RFPs..) and then off to find if you have discussion on such. What a FIND you are! Please, if you could, talk about what type of space needs to be on eaves and rakes for gutter aprons and drip edges, and C vs D... etc Thanks!
As long as everything is photographed and documented as to why it's necessary, it doesn't have to be pre-approved. That's a scare tactic used by insurance adjusters.
Something like underlayment or decking issues uncovered while replacing a roof, or fixing some other issues that the adjuster overlooked is handled by an insurance claim term called a "supplement". Supplements (or "supplementing") is a pretty normal part of the claim process that usually occurs during the repair when unforeseen problems or damage is discovered.
A good example would be while tearing up your roof and underlayment, the roofer discovers a section of decking that is damaged and can't sustain the install of new roofing materials. That decking section then has to be replaced. In that case, you would file a supplement work change order which requires sign-off by the roofing contractor and the homeowner. Often the change order is handled by meeting with the adjuster on-site, demonstrating the reasons for the supplement with photographs or video, and filling out paperwork. The adjuster is the final arbiter of a change order/supplement and whether or not it gets approved and paid out by your insurance.