This is the most thorough, objective and well spoken reviews I’ve ever read on the internet. I give the reviewer a “10” and will use him to decide on a tool purchase for which he’s done a review.
I just got one of these to replace a 10 year old Dewalt that got damaged. The Bosch seems to do a good job of getting back to 0 when making angle adjustments, and the glide mechanism works nice. Overall, though, the Bosch is not a good portable jobsite saw unless you have it mounted to a portable table. It is very large and heavy, and there are NO carrying handles, so if you use a standard miter saw stand it is a pain to set up. This is a great saw for a more permanent installation like a shop.
I'm about to film my own review of this saw and really like your use of the dial indicators. I'll be sure to direct my viewers to this video if they want to see it in more depth. Cheers!
I’m a fan of this saw, my complaint if any is the dust collection but it makes for a great project to build up a better system by means of a box & shop vac, this is one of the best reviews for this saw I’ve seen & I love the dial indicator accuracy’s 👍👍👍
It's a safe saw. Not having to reach around the blade to change the bevel, is great. That also saves my wrist. The blade retracts to the fence when not in use, like a spring loaded hinge. I have had mine for about a year. I love it. I carry it in the back of my van. It gets bounced around and it stays true. The action on the arm is so good, you won't enjoy how other saws cut.
Even for those of us who don't use Bosch, all of the key points apply equally to any saw worth owning and, in the case of my not-Bosch compound miter saw, the user's manual covers all but one parameter and that one is covered on the product web site. Very well done and quite useful. Thanks much!
What a great saw, very unique glide mechanism. Pretty cool that it doesn't require extra space behind the saw for a deep depth of cut! Perfect for those of us with limited space.... Or everyone, because who has too much space?
Very nice demonstration of this saw i am too a top of the line tool quality person building furniture. I am impressed with all your findings on this saw. I have used double rail glide saws so im not familiar with this design. I do have one major question that comes into play for my satisfaction if i choose to purchase this saw. One very important test i do which was not done on your video is taking a 6" or 8" wide stock and as you pull the trigger of the saw just barely set the blade into the wood just enough to score a line and you are pulling towards yourself wiggle the handle side to side to see if the glide mechanism is stable. As you know when cutting different species of wood the blade or glide mechanism will move if its loose. This test i use on all my slide saws to make sure its stable when cutting long miters. This test is also used to determine if the bearings or bushings are wearing out in my saws too. Let me know what you find out after your test. Thank you for the awesome video.
nice review. I have this saw and like most of the features except for the fact that it won't cut 90. I can set it to 90 and use it just fine. As soon as I move it though, it does not come back to 90 due to the fact that its all plastic underneath. There is too much flex so it will return to 90 in different locations whether you are swinging in from the left or from the right. I wish there was a fix to this. Its great for cutting down to rough size, but I have to take it to the table saw for final cut or put it on the shooting board to get it to a 90.
Like many others, the volume of negative comments about repeatable accuracy have me concerned. My old DeWalt miter is worn out, so I need to replace it. What is your experience with this Bosch over time? Does the saw stay in calibration from cut to cut? If not I'm get another cheap chopper for rough cutting and keep doing the precision work on the table sled.
Good review Brian. I looked at this saw a while ago and gave it a pass for now because I didn't like the side to side deflection when a little bit of hand pressure is applied. The DeWalt was much more steady side to side, but like you I don't care for how deep the rails go behind the saw. Not sure which one I'll end up with at this point, still looking.
Thanks Brian, very informative. Apart from Dust collection I would agree with it being a great saw. I changed a few months ago from Makita to the Bosch but think the dust collection is pretty average. I have made my own dust port boot to replace the supplied which is a little deeper and the wings towards the blade a little longer. I still get dust spray behind the saw, but a lot less than the original (vac attached).
Good review. I find mine about the same as what you said. I put on a larger rubber boot on the bottom of the dust collector. I made it from an old wheel barrow inner tube but apparently the FeStool one will fit also and improve dust collection. I also made a zero clearance insert for the table which helps. I have a 90 tooth blade to put on mine (not done yet) and I hear that it makes the saw just that much better. My mods are posted on my channel. Thanks for the review Brian.
Thank you. I've seen others make a similar modification to their miter saw dust ports. I'm not a huge shop dust person; a little saw dust laying around is tolerable for me.
I bought the Bosch 10". No extensions supplied. I wish I had bought the 12" saw. How would you like to come and make my adjustments? Bring your dial gauge. Oh, It was an outstanding video.
Nice review. I use my right out of the box and have never had an issue with the cuts. I do forget to empty the dust collection bag at times and get a build up of dust on the fence area. I need to hook it up to a shop vac but haven’t done it yet.
I went to Home Depot and spent ~$20 on adapters to get the connection to my shop vac. I did see some improvement but more improvement could potentially be made by closing up the gap between the blade and the dust port at the back of the saw - I would try this but I don't care about a dusty shop. It's a woodshop right? :)
thank you very much for the great demo great job describing the details and features... of the saw I bought this saw last year and just starting to use it more and more I didn't know the sides slid out .haven't had much time to read the directions //great saw I agree...I haven't seen one better /I try to buy the best equipment and use it but I also take very good care of it.....I want to buy it only once.. I paid $650.00 for this saw at the local hardware store ,,no regrets ..cant wait to use the other features as well...…………………!!! ……….…………..
Nice review, thanks. I would like to know if this machine has a feature to lock the depth of cut for trenching. If so, how flat is the bottom of the trench?
Hello, this was a good Review, I am considering this miter saw, but also compared with the Makita... What could be your recommendation and opinion about it?
Brian, Awesome video, very informative. Could you please provide some information regarding the jig used to hold the dial indicator for checking 90 and 45 degree angles.
I got this saw a few years ago and it was a MAJOR upgrade from the Harbor Freight special I had been using before. The only issue I have had with it is that the threads on the hold down clamp wore out in the area needed to hold 1/2” to 3/4” stock which are the most common size boards I use for things like window trim, building decorative boxes, etc. if anyone has a suggestion for a good aftermarket hold down clamp for this saw I would greatly appreciate it. It’s been a fantastic addition to my shop.
Good review and the Bosch is a great saw well worth the cost of admission. I would like to see a demonstration of checking the 45º tilt with a dial indicator.
I've been doing a bunch of research on miter saws and this is by far the best video I've seen. I was on the fence between this one and the yellow brand. I have the 10" fixed yellow one and wanted to upgrade to a 12" compound. You have helped me make the final decision. Now I have just got to make a jig for my dial gauge.
Hi, I understand that the red dial indicator holder is no longer made, but do you think I could make one from wood, add a screw, and mount a DI to it to accomplish the same thing? Also how wide did you make the second DI wood one? Thanks.
I am a hobbyist woodworker looking to pick up a cordless driver and a impact driver. I’m not necessarily looking for the best since I’m not a professional but I want tools that will have plenty of power when I need it, the batteries are going to last so I’m not constantly running out of charge, and tools that will will last and be dependable. I don’t want to buy cheap tools but don’t need the best. Can you recommend which tools to buy, brand and type of battery? Thanks.
Awesome review! You have made me a dial indicator man. I have used your reviews to align my other tools using your DI technique. Question on the jig to check for blade deflection. Does the piece of wood need to be square or is that the job of the screw and machinist square to reference from with the DI?
I think the glide measurements were better than the numbers you got. The first measurement you took you were on the paint of the blade and the second you were on the steel.
Fantastic review and love fine tuning with dial indicators. Today i saw a expierenced woodworker on youtube swapping this mitersaw for a Festool Kapex mitersaw. Is the Kapex a better miter saw?
Thanks for taking the time to go through the adjustment process. I don't think anyone has done an alignment video one these saws, at least as thorough as you have done. A few years ago you did a video on making a ZERO degree dial indicator jig. it was similar to the 90-degree jig you used in this video. Can you post a link to that old video? I cant seem to find it on your site.
Thanks for the review Brian. It was informative and looks like a solid saw. I was wondering if you changed blades and how that process was, easy, did it change the accuracy, etc.? Thanks again for your efforts and sharing what you do.
yours is the only review I've seen that doesn't condemn the saw's DC as horrible. My experience with the 12" version of the Glide is that the DC is a howling joke. on the u side I didn't need to make any adjustments.
I got this saw and i found the middle of the base was higher of the sides with a about up to 1/2 of cm, I got in touch with bosch, their answer was - it's not approved for warranty, because it's in the factories margin of error, as this saw is made for to take to job sites, and not for fine woodworking. What it ended up to be the problem that the base got a crack, so basically this saw is not made for job sides due too poor material quality.
I was wondering the same thing. I am likely to build my miter saw stand before I upgrade my miter saw. I would like to place the fence and any upper cabinets at a good distance from the back wall.
Is there a way to adjust the glide mechanism? Mine seems to be running in an arch; I set my dial indicator at the front of the blade then zero it. I leave plunger in contact with the blade then pull it towards me. The needle moves from zero to plus .006 or so then back to zero at the back of the blade.
Could be the blade. Are you able to use the same spot on the blade for each measurement? If you rotate the blade, do you get the same result if you repeat what you did?
The only problem I have is that the blade seems to be too far back not getting enough travel forward to have a clean through cut on the piece. I would like to have another 1/4" forward. I there an adjustment for this travel?
Brian, thanks for this video. I am considering buying this saw in the near future (hopefully a month or two) I would like to ask you about your thoughts on this saw today. Since you have had it for almost a year, is this still a good choice to buy? if not what would be your next choice? Thanks
Last time I checked, they were no longer being manufactured commercially. If you want one, you will likely need to make your own. See my website for ideas to get you started.
You've probably answered this before but why Sawl and not Saw? April Wilkerson does this and says it's because she has always pronounced it Sawl and is not changing. Why do you continue to do so? Good review thanks!
I never noticed. It's likely a regional accent. My parents are from New York and that could be the root. I also live in the south, so that could be the root.
It is called a TS-Aligner Jr and it is no longer manufactured. You can make one that will do the same thing as shown in this video by making the one here: www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=85
I am using this atm on a 22000 sq.ft. mansion in Md. we are building. Unfortunately it can't do it, I have the old one and its more accurate and alot more worn out " no guard", and much better except for that pos guard. I have to go and get a DeWalt when I get into the walnut...... It's OK for paint grade base and tops and smaller trims, but it can't hang with the high end trim. Cutting 4 1/2" casing is shit because the blade back cuts the hell out of the wood , too much flex and the blade is too shallow. When you cut properly all the adjustments are not going to help because its a bad design. Sorry but BOSCH dropped the ball bigtime. I hate reaching around to wrench my arthritic wrist and hands just to change my bevel, but thats what I will be doing probably until I retire............
Thanks for the video. I recently got this saw and when I check the 0 degree alignment of the blade, I have a 4x6 machinist square and am getting a .010" gap at between the square and the saw blade on the left side of the saw near the base of the saw, and would expect to see opposite with a gap on the upper side of the square on the right side of the saw. But it is totally flush on the right side of the saw. This doesn't make sense. Any ideas? Thanks
It could be your blade. Or maybe you’re contacting teeth with the square? When you spin the blade and measure from a different location on the blade, do you get the same result? If I were you, I’d check this alignment using a dial indicator like I demonstrate in the video. If you don’t own a dial indicator, you can get them on Amazon for < $20. You’ll never stop finding uses for them.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks for the quick reply. Definitely not hitting any blade teeth. I will be making a dial indicator tool like you show. I had a few pics, but no way to add them. I just don't see how this could be, without the blade being bad, but also don't see how the blade would be bad.
I have seen blades have a slight taper as they extend from the center out toward the teeth, but only around ~4 thou (picture the blade as a equilateral triangle). If this is the case, the best you could do is split the difference (5 thou per side). You would need to rule the blade out as the source of error. If it’s not the blade it could be that a fence on either side is slightly out of alignment with the other. This could be checked with a long straight edge that bridges both faces of the fence on each side.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks, I'll do some more checking and see if I can figure it out. I did plan on getting a new blade anyway. But not for this reason, and wouldn't think the blade would be bad, just better blades available.
Good luck. Just keep your cool and rule things out one at a time. When dealing with such small errors (10 thou) using a dial indicator wherever you can will help you keep your sanity.
My saw wasnt packed like that! Wow they cut down on their quality control. Cuz ninjas two pieces of styrofoam thts it and 90 and 45 were way off so much that I returned it.
Waffle. Course you give it ten. You got it for free. Other reviewers point out miter accuracy etc. You waffle about dust collection again and again. It’s a saw, not a vacuum cleaner.
I addressed accuracy in the video and displayed the results live, in the video. Dust collection was part of the review because it is a concern for a lot of woodworkers - a review w/o it would be incomplete. Other reviewers point out miter accuracy? I don’t follow. From my review do you see where it deserves a lower rating?
the Bosch GCM12SD is a piece of crap!!!. i bought it to replace an old 16 year old dewalt 12". The Bosch does not cut straight nor accurate for precise molding nor crown, completely sucks for trim work!!!!. because the fences are not one piece part of the base there is all ways 1 to 1 1/2 degree difference from right to left and the 45 corners are always off. i took the Bosch to the factory service center 3 times to get it fixed for accuracy but never fixed the accuracy after the 3rd time i asked to have it replaced but the management said i needed to take the issue with factory. I defiantly got a lemon . 2 years later still fighting for a new saw so the saw sits in the corner of my shop collecting dust and only used for rough cutting 2X4's please do not buy this saw its crap!!! do not waste your money on it!! if you buy one take it home and make sure its cuts perfect 45's and accurate on left and right hand cut!!! For me at the end I had my DeWalt rebuilt and went back to using it as my primary miter saw...
This is the most thorough, objective and well spoken reviews I’ve ever read on the internet. I give the reviewer a “10” and will use him to decide on a tool purchase for which he’s done a review.
I just got one of these to replace a 10 year old Dewalt that got damaged. The Bosch seems to do a good job of getting back to 0 when making angle adjustments, and the glide mechanism works nice.
Overall, though, the Bosch is not a good portable jobsite saw unless you have it mounted to a portable table. It is very large and heavy, and there are NO carrying handles, so if you use a standard miter saw stand it is a pain to set up. This is a great saw for a more permanent installation like a shop.
I like that dial setup, great idea.
I'm about to film my own review of this saw and really like your use of the dial indicators. I'll be sure to direct my viewers to this video if they want to see it in more depth. Cheers!
I’m a fan of this saw, my complaint if any is the dust collection but it makes for a great project to build up a better system by means of a box & shop vac, this is one of the best reviews for this saw I’ve seen & I love the dial indicator accuracy’s 👍👍👍
It's a safe saw. Not having to reach around the blade to change the bevel, is great. That also saves my wrist. The blade retracts to the fence when not in use, like a spring loaded hinge. I have had mine for about a year. I love it. I carry it in the back of my van. It gets bounced around and it stays true.
The action on the arm is so good, you won't enjoy how other saws cut.
Hands down the best miter saw review I have seen so far. Thanks for taking the time to be meticulous and precise.
Even for those of us who don't use Bosch, all of the key points apply equally to any saw worth owning and, in the case of my not-Bosch compound miter saw, the user's manual covers all but one parameter and that one is covered on the product web site. Very well done and quite useful. Thanks much!
yes - all of the alignment techniques that I went over would apply to any miter saw. The adjustments and ease of adjusting would vary.
Knowing that you, a man of extreme precision, own a saw like this: I went and bought one today.
Finally a video that's actually useful, nicely done Buddy
When I took my saw out of the box it was way out of whack. Your video really helped me set it up. Thank you
You’re welcome. I still enjoy using mine.
What a great saw, very unique glide mechanism. Pretty cool that it doesn't require extra space behind the saw for a deep depth of cut! Perfect for those of us with limited space.... Or everyone, because who has too much space?
Very nice demonstration of this saw i am too a top of the line tool quality person building furniture. I am impressed with all your findings on this saw. I have used double rail glide saws so im not familiar with this design. I do have one major question that comes into play for my satisfaction if i choose to purchase this saw. One very important test i do which was not done on your video is taking a 6" or 8" wide stock and as you pull the trigger of the saw just barely set the blade into the wood just enough to score a line and you are pulling towards yourself wiggle the handle side to side to see if the glide mechanism is stable. As you know when cutting different species of wood the blade or glide mechanism will move if its loose. This test i use on all my slide saws to make sure its stable when cutting long miters. This test is also used to determine if the bearings or bushings are wearing out in my saws too. Let me know what you find out after your test. Thank you for the awesome video.
Guy, I just purchased this same saw about 2 weeks ago, so far I'm loving it. This saw replaced my 10" craftsman. Thanks for the video on the tune up.
This is Brian, I think you are referencing "Guy" from Guyswoodshop? Thanks for the kind words :)
Sorry Brian, thank you for the review.
No problem. :^)
Thanks for watching!
nice review. I have this saw and like most of the features except for the fact that it won't cut 90. I can set it to 90 and use it just fine. As soon as I move it though, it does not come back to 90 due to the fact that its all plastic underneath. There is too much flex so it will return to 90 in different locations whether you are swinging in from the left or from the right. I wish there was a fix to this. Its great for cutting down to rough size, but I have to take it to the table saw for final cut or put it on the shooting board to get it to a 90.
I just bought this saw an what a pleasure it is to use.
I just ordered the 12" Makita. If there are any problems I will get the Bosch.
Thorough review!! I'm going to buy a dial indicator tomorrow to check my GCM12SD
I love the detail you go into on your videos without being long-winded. Great review!
Thank you.
I agree with your assessment, I love mine.
Like many others, the volume of negative comments about repeatable accuracy have me concerned. My old DeWalt miter is worn out, so I need to replace it. What is your experience with this Bosch over time? Does the saw stay in calibration from cut to cut? If not I'm get another cheap chopper for rough cutting and keep doing the precision work on the table sled.
Great video. I’m curious what brand dial indicator holder are you using? Slick setup.
Good review Brian. I looked at this saw a while ago and gave it a pass for now because I didn't like the side to side deflection when a little bit of hand pressure is applied. The DeWalt was much more steady side to side, but like you I don't care for how deep the rails go behind the saw. Not sure which one I'll end up with at this point, still looking.
Great review, thanks. Been considering this saw for a while and now I know what my next tool purchase will be 👍👍👍
I absolutely love mine I also got the stand... but love it... am happy with it over all.
Thanks Brian, very informative. Apart from Dust collection I would agree with it being a great saw. I changed a few months ago from Makita to the Bosch but think the dust collection is pretty average. I have made my own dust port boot to replace the supplied which is a little deeper and the wings towards the blade a little longer. I still get dust spray behind the saw, but a lot less than the original (vac attached).
Good review. I find mine about the same as what you said.
I put on a larger rubber boot on the bottom of the dust collector. I made it from an old wheel barrow inner tube but apparently the FeStool one will fit also and improve dust collection.
I also made a zero clearance insert for the table which helps.
I have a 90 tooth blade to put on mine (not done yet) and I hear that it makes the saw just that much better.
My mods are posted on my channel.
Thanks for the review Brian.
Thank you. I've seen others make a similar modification to their miter saw dust ports. I'm not a huge shop dust person; a little saw dust laying around is tolerable for me.
It's not saw dust....it's man glitter!....lol.
Thanks for your review. If you did have to re-align the glide mechanism how would you do that?
I bought the Bosch 10". No extensions supplied. I wish I had bought the 12" saw. How would you like to come and make my adjustments? Bring your dial gauge. Oh, It was an outstanding video.
would you expect the alignment to stay true if you were transporting the saw in a van to site work?
Nice review. I use my right out of the box and have never had an issue with the cuts. I do forget to empty the dust collection bag at times and get a build up of dust on the fence area. I need to hook it up to a shop vac but haven’t done it yet.
I have added a zero clearance on the bottom plate. Greatly improves cut.
I went to Home Depot and spent ~$20 on adapters to get the connection to my shop vac. I did see some improvement but more improvement could potentially be made by closing up the gap between the blade and the dust port at the back of the saw - I would try this but I don't care about a dusty shop. It's a woodshop right? :)
Como siempre, un tutorial claro, conciso y sobre todo, exacto.
Happy new saw Brian. She's a beaut!
Thanks Guy!
thank you very much for the great demo great job describing the details and features... of the saw I bought this saw last year and just starting to use it more and more I didn't know the sides slid out .haven't had much time to read the directions //great saw I agree...I haven't seen one better /I try to buy the best equipment and use it but I also take very good care of it.....I want to buy it only once.. I paid $650.00 for this saw at the local hardware store ,,no regrets ..cant wait to use the other features as well...…………………!!!
……….…………..
Nice review, thanks. I would like to know if this machine has a feature to lock the depth of cut for trenching. If so, how flat is the bottom of the trench?
What about play in the saw head while fully extended with slight side pressure, this is the biggest weakness with these saws? How do you find this?
PG Tips I had that very problem on the first one I bought and the replacement. It was so bad I returned it for my money back n
Hello, this was a good Review, I am considering this miter saw, but also compared with the Makita...
What could be your recommendation and opinion about it?
Brian, Awesome video, very informative. Could you please provide some information regarding the jig used to hold the dial indicator for checking 90 and 45 degree angles.
Ave needs to do a teardown on this saw
I got this saw a few years ago and it was a MAJOR upgrade from the Harbor Freight special I had been using before. The only issue I have had with it is that the threads on the hold down clamp wore out in the area needed to hold 1/2” to 3/4” stock which are the most common size boards I use for things like window trim, building decorative boxes, etc. if anyone has a suggestion for a good aftermarket hold down clamp for this saw I would greatly appreciate it. It’s been a fantastic addition to my shop.
Good review and the Bosch is a great saw well worth the cost of admission. I would like to see a demonstration of checking the 45º tilt with a dial indicator.
Thanks. See 4:01
I've been doing a bunch of research on miter saws and this is by far the best video I've seen. I was on the fence between this one and the yellow brand. I have the 10" fixed yellow one and wanted to upgrade to a 12" compound. You have helped me make the final decision. Now I have just got to make a jig for my dial gauge.
did you buy? and do you notice any lateral play of the blade
i heard that if you slide it out all the way there is a fair amount of play
Hi, I understand that the red dial indicator holder is no longer made, but do you think I could make one from wood, add a screw, and mount a DI to it to accomplish the same thing? Also how wide did you make the second DI wood one? Thanks.
Great tutorial review, very professional
Thanks
Great review! I've had mine for about 2 years now and love it. What dial indicator base are you using, the red one? Looks nice.
That is a TS Aligner Jr which is no longer made.
I am a hobbyist woodworker looking to pick up a cordless driver and a impact driver. I’m not necessarily looking for the best since I’m not a professional but I want tools that will have plenty of power when I need it, the batteries are going to last so I’m not constantly running out of charge, and tools that will will last and be dependable. I don’t want to buy cheap tools but don’t need the best. Can you recommend which tools to buy, brand and type of battery? Thanks.
Could you make a few pictures from the dusbag? En the piece on the Saw?
Very cool vid. What is the tool calked you did the allignment with. Where can it be bought?
Awesome review! You have made me a dial indicator man. I have used your reviews to align my other tools using your DI technique. Question on the jig to check for blade deflection. Does the piece of wood need to be square or is that the job of the screw and machinist square to reference from with the DI?
Also your method tells me that the stock blade may not be true. But I would replace it with a 100T Freud.
I think the glide measurements were better than the numbers you got.
The first measurement you took you were on the paint of the blade and the second you were on the steel.
Fantastic review and love fine tuning with dial indicators. Today i saw a expierenced woodworker on youtube swapping this mitersaw for a Festool Kapex mitersaw. Is the Kapex a better miter saw?
I’ve been building furniture for ~18 years. I see no logical reason to replace this saw with a Kapex.
Why doesn't the factory do these setup alignments?
Perfect review! You provided great details.
Thanks for taking the time to go through the adjustment process. I don't think anyone has done an alignment video one these saws, at least as thorough as you have done. A few years ago you did a video on making a ZERO degree dial indicator jig. it was similar to the 90-degree jig you used in this video. Can you post a link to that old video? I cant seem to find it on your site.
Thanks for watching. All of my alignment videos can be found here: www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?category=align
I think I found the video you were referencing: www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=85
Yes! That was the one.. Thanks
Thanks for the review Brian. It was informative and looks like a solid saw. I was wondering if you changed blades and how that process was, easy, did it change the accuracy, etc.? Thanks again for your efforts and sharing what you do.
No, I didn't remove the blade. Thank you.
GarageWoodworks Ok thanks for responding.
yours is the only review I've seen that doesn't condemn the saw's DC as horrible. My experience with the 12" version of the Glide is that the DC is a howling joke. on the u side I didn't need to make any adjustments.
Does anyone know what the distance from the fence face to the back of the axial glide mechanism?
I got this saw and i found the middle of the base was higher of the sides with a about up to 1/2 of cm, I got in touch with bosch, their answer was - it's not approved for warranty, because it's in the factories margin of error, as this saw is made for to take to job sites, and not for fine woodworking. What it ended up to be the problem that the base got a crack, so basically this saw is not made for job sides due too poor material quality.
you should ask bosch for there extractor and use it wit the saw
The saw itself is enough compensation surely?
Are you still happy with the dust collection from this Bosch miter saw? Have you made any modifications to improve dust collection? thanks!
The dust collection could be better, but it doesn't bother me. I haven't made any modifications and I don't plan on it.
What is the distance from the back (frame) to the front of the fence? i.e. how close to the wall can I put it? Also, I am aware of the sawdust shout.
I was wondering the same thing. I am likely to build my miter saw stand before I upgrade my miter saw. I would like to place the fence and any upper cabinets at a good distance from the back wall.
From the back of the saw to the front of the fence is 13"
Thanks. That is not much deeper than my 10" non-sliding miter saw.That will help me plan my miter saw station.
My bevel selector knob is stuck and the saw is stuck in the left tilt 45 degrees. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks for anyone that answers.
Did you get answers??
Nice video. Where did you find the aluminum jig for your dial indicator?
It's called a Tablesaw Aligner Jr, but unfortunately it is no longer made. See my website for DIY alternatives. Subscribe!
Is there a way to adjust the glide mechanism? Mine seems to be running in an arch; I set my dial indicator at the front of the blade then zero it. I leave plunger in contact with the blade then pull it towards me. The needle moves from zero to plus .006 or so then back to zero at the back of the blade.
Could be the blade. Are you able to use the same spot on the blade for each measurement? If you rotate the blade, do you get the same result if you repeat what you did?
@@GarageWoodworks I'll give that a try. I did rotate the blade when it was fully to the rear and the indicator showed it to be flat.
How do I align the glide mechanism?
No. 1 great review
very very good video!
The only problem I have is that the blade seems to be too far back not getting enough travel forward to have a clean through cut on the piece. I would like to have another 1/4" forward. I there an adjustment for this travel?
What size blade do you have on? Diameter.
GarageWoodworks The blade is a 12”.
Is it possible that your fence is adjusted too far back? I would check to see if it can come forward at all.
GarageWoodworks There is forward / backward fence adjustment.
Adjusting the fence forward should do the trick.
Brian, thanks for this video. I am considering buying this saw in the near future (hopefully a month or two) I would like to ask you about your thoughts on this saw today. Since you have had it for almost a year, is this still a good choice to buy? if not what would be your next choice?
Thanks
No complaints. I haven't re-checked the alignment to see if it's help up over time, but I haven't noticed any problems with its performance.
Hey buddy, was wondering if you knew of a brake speed adjustment for this saw?
Nope
I enjoyed how you reviewed the saw, using the dial mics. It’s pretty obvious you are a respectably educated “Science guy” : >). Good Vid!
Thank you. I have scientific background which is sometimes hard to conceal. :)
GarageWoodworks Don’t conceal it! I enjoy it, IMO it works well with how you do your thing.
Can you tell me what brand dial indicator alignment tool you are using? Thanks.
TS Aligner Jr. It's no longer made. See here: www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=85
Great video! Can anyone tell me who makes the dial indicator holding jig, I've been looking but can't seem to find it? Any help would be appreciated.
Last time I checked, they were no longer being manufactured commercially. If you want one, you will likely need to make your own. See my website for ideas to get you started.
You've probably answered this before but why Sawl and not Saw? April Wilkerson does this and says it's because
she has always pronounced it Sawl and is not changing. Why do you continue to do so?
Good review thanks!
I never noticed. It's likely a regional accent. My parents are from New York and that could be the root. I also live in the south, so that could be the root.
same reason some say "Worsh" instead of "Wash"
did you buy the red aluminum dial indicator setup if so where?
It is called a TS-Aligner Jr and it is no longer manufactured. You can make one that will do the same thing as shown in this video by making the one here: www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=85
I am using this atm on a 22000 sq.ft. mansion in Md. we are building. Unfortunately it can't do it, I have the old one and its more accurate and alot more worn out " no guard", and much better except for that pos guard. I have to go and get a DeWalt when I get into the walnut......
It's OK for paint grade base and tops and smaller trims, but it can't hang with the high end trim. Cutting 4 1/2" casing is shit because the blade back cuts the hell out of the wood , too much flex and the blade is too shallow. When you cut properly all the adjustments are not going to help because its a bad design. Sorry but BOSCH dropped the ball bigtime.
I hate reaching around to wrench my arthritic wrist and hands just to change my bevel, but thats what I will be doing probably until I retire............
where did you get the jig for the dial indicator? The metal one.
It is no longer manufactured. See link in video description to make a similar tool.
Thanks for the video. I recently got this saw and when I check the 0 degree alignment of the blade, I have a 4x6 machinist square and am getting a .010" gap at between the square and the saw blade on the left side of the saw near the base of the saw, and would expect to see opposite with a gap on the upper side of the square on the right side of the saw. But it is totally flush on the right side of the saw. This doesn't make sense. Any ideas? Thanks
It could be your blade. Or maybe you’re contacting teeth with the square? When you spin the blade and measure from a different location on the blade, do you get the same result? If I were you, I’d check this alignment using a dial indicator like I demonstrate in the video. If you don’t own a dial indicator, you can get them on Amazon for < $20. You’ll never stop finding uses for them.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks for the quick reply. Definitely not hitting any blade teeth. I will be making a dial indicator tool like you show. I had a few pics, but no way to add them. I just don't see how this could be, without the blade being bad, but also don't see how the blade would be bad.
I have seen blades have a slight taper as they extend from the center out toward the teeth, but only around ~4 thou (picture the blade as a equilateral triangle). If this is the case, the best you could do is split the difference (5 thou per side). You would need to rule the blade out as the source of error. If it’s not the blade it could be that a fence on either side is slightly out of alignment with the other. This could be checked with a long straight edge that bridges both faces of the fence on each side.
@@GarageWoodworks Thanks, I'll do some more checking and see if I can figure it out. I did plan on getting a new blade anyway. But not for this reason, and wouldn't think the blade would be bad, just better blades available.
Good luck. Just keep your cool and rule things out one at a time. When dealing with such small errors (10 thou) using a dial indicator wherever you can will help you keep your sanity.
How much price sir this
thank you
Absolutely love your sweatshirt. Are you an alumni? Go Monarchs.
Yes. ‘93
So, no more DELTA chop saw?
I'll likely only use my old chop saw in the future for outdoor projects where I need it on location.
I want buying this Madrasa tell me in contact
between one and three thousandths of an inch in wood working only matters to those that are obsessive.
My saw wasnt packed like that! Wow they cut down on their quality control. Cuz ninjas two pieces of styrofoam thts it and 90 and 45 were way off so much that I returned it.
That stinks. The 90 and 45 are pretty easy to adjust.
jealous, jealous, jealous, etc....
Waffle. Course you give it ten. You got it for free. Other reviewers point out miter accuracy etc. You waffle about dust collection again and again. It’s a saw, not a vacuum cleaner.
I addressed accuracy in the video and displayed the results live, in the video. Dust collection was part of the review because it is a concern for a lot of woodworkers - a review w/o it would be incomplete. Other reviewers point out miter accuracy? I don’t follow. From my review do you see where it deserves a lower rating?
the Bosch GCM12SD is a piece of crap!!!. i bought it to replace an old 16 year old dewalt 12". The Bosch does not cut straight nor accurate for precise molding nor crown, completely sucks for trim work!!!!. because the fences are not one piece part of the base there is all ways 1 to 1 1/2 degree difference from right to left and the 45 corners are always off. i took the Bosch to the factory service center 3 times to get it fixed for accuracy but never fixed the accuracy after the 3rd time i asked to have it replaced but the management said i needed to take the issue with factory. I defiantly got a lemon . 2 years later still fighting for a new saw so the saw sits in the corner of my shop collecting dust and only used for rough cutting 2X4's please do not buy this saw its crap!!! do not waste your money on it!! if you buy one take it home and make sure its cuts perfect 45's and accurate on left and right hand cut!!! For me at the end I had my DeWalt rebuilt and went back to using it as my primary miter saw...