Reading it wrong mate, it’s 92mm cut at the centre point of the bit where the blade changes. As you can see on the video the 6x2 goes up behind the nut which enables you to make bigger cuts.
Hi John nice review! Milwaukee man myself! 😂 it can cut 6” near the fence as you can get up behind the centre of the blade (deeper than the blade radius). Only for say 6x2 though. You wouldn’t be able to do 6x12 in that sense, but as they state 4x12 is achievable with the actual bade radius 👍🏻
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
It will do a 98mm x 382mm cut but if you don't need the 382mm length of cut you can cut deeper cut on short pieces of wood using the back of the blade as you demonstrated in the video.
Hey A&E, I cant really say I only use one brand, as a trades man I have no loyalty to a brand because some brands keeping the new technology rolling out like hot cakes, makita is a top tool, dewalt is also a top tool with a great price point, where can you get 2x 18v batteries, an impact driver, drill driver, charger and case for £199, only dewalt can do that, but that said I have a fein because they are the real deal when it comes to oscillating tools the founders, as for festool that's specialist tools, domino, their ks120 kapex and edgebander are engineered so that no other brand can compare, all tools have a purpose and all brands make a wicked tool 😉
The saw can cut around 6 inches vertical if it’s baseboard or something thin like that but I think what there saying is a piece or stock that’s 14-15 inches wide can only be 3-1/2” or 90mm
Yep. I was cringing when he kept rambling on about that. It's really simple, like you said... There is a cutout behind the arbor so it can cut tall and narrow pieces like at 11:57, but it cannot slide over anything taller than 92mm. Hence wider boards need to be thinner than 92mm. However, you can cut thicker stuff if you cut one side, then flip the work.
I have a 12 inch dewalt have it for the last 16 years .. still cuts square and true.. its heavy.. also if you want a skilsaw I got a bosch 9 1/4 inch would eat anything I've ever used.. so I think I'll try a bosch chop saw next
I just sold my Bosch axial glide and got the Makita. Didn't like the bosch for a few reason but the main ones was dust extraction was absolutely useless. It had pretty bad head flex when cutting wider boards. Way too many flimsy plastic parts. The detents are a soft plastic so they don't last that long. If you need something super accurate the Makita, DeWalt dw780 or if you have the mo ey the kapex. I've tried pretty much every popular saw on the market right now and the Makita beats them all hands down. I have the 36v version of this saw and it's a beast.
Thanks tor the review. I hadn’t realised that they’d revised this size machine. There’s a lot of improvements there over the previous model and even the model previous to that! But also a couple of things that maybe aren’t so good? The slides at the side seem a much nicer solution and the adjustment of the tilt from the front is an excellent touch.
THIS IS NOT A "CHOP SAW" IN THE U.S., IT IS KNOWN AS A DUAL BEVEL, SLIDING, CORDED COMPOUND MITRE SAW. The model may have a different name depending upon which country you purchased it in.
We know but that's a bit long mate . So we say chop saw. In fact we don't even say that we say choppy . Just like we don't say circular saw . We say skill saw because skill made them 1st . We shorten that skilly . So it's a choppy and a skilly in the UK .
the cut capacity stated for 97mm is at the extended 308mm slide out. a lot of manufacturers quote only at the static cut. the guard of the saw did kick on that x6" board as it came down. on a piece of fine carpentry or furniture cut that would of compromised accuracy. could you review the mitre indent accuracy. a lot of mitre saws once dialed in at exactly 90deg when moved to a 45 they usually at least 0.2 0f a degree out. this means if you cut a picture frame there are 8 mitre cuts. when you compound 0.2 8 time there is a gap. also if you mitre a door frame architrave (door trim in USA) if the trim is 2.1m long any inaccuracy will result in either the door trim out at the bottom or a mitre gap. I am on a quest and have yet to find a mitre saw that is actually accurate on the indent no matter how many hours you spend trying to dial them in.
@@giuseppecastaldo644 i have now bought the Makita LS1219. It came with a nice extendable bed too, not available in some locations. Its beast of a saw. It was pretty accurate out of the box. I have made a minior adjustment to the indent plate and dialed in the bevel stops. What i have noticed is in 0° Celsius the indent plate is 0.1 of a degree out. At north Yorkshire current daytime temperature of about 17° Celsius its pretty bang on. A bit like an engineers ruler, calibrated at 20°. Ill just be aware in winter till i get my heating sorted. The saw is well built, dust extraction works well and the stock blade cuts nice while its new. So far happy
Just got this saw. Set up but not used as found an issue. Searching for other users and John's advice/experience. My saw when mitering counterclockwise would cut into the high fence on the left side. I have moved the lower fence left as much as possible which is only able to go an 1/8 or so. If I want to miter past 30 degrees I'd have to remove the upper fence on the left side. I Can't find any info on this. Home Depot not that helpful. Makita help line, less helpful. Is my saw a lemon? Am I a lemon? Replace saw or remove material from the left upper fence. Does anyone reading this have any thoughts?
Hi, just wondered the link you have for this saw in the description looks a different saw than the on in the video. The side extending arms are different. Could you help with this as I'm interested in this saw 😁
Be aware that the bolt that retains the blade is LEFT HAND THREAD, it does tell you in the instruction but if you're like me and just go charging ahead with the assembly you will walk into a whole world of grief when you massively overtighten the bolt trying to undo it ! 😱🤣
ks120>makita ls1219> dws780 in my opinion but I like that makita and dewalt do the cordless versions. As soon as festool join that market it’s game over
You mentioned in the first part that you would judge if it's better than the festool... maybe I missed, but I didn't hear your conclusion about this... so... Is it better or worse?
Saludos cordiales desde Ecuador excelente demostración Master gracias por compartir video, desde que parte del mundo lo grabó??, cuánto le costó en dólares y que modelo es??, gracias
The XGT model is cordless 40v or 80v. The one I'm reviewing here, is the corded 110v one. There are a lot of different ones, so it can be a bit of a minefield 😅 All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Are the tall fences on your saw flush with the lower fence? I just set my new ls1219l up and the tall fences are set back from the lower fence. Just wondering if I got a bad one. Seems like some others have had this issue
Kapex are notoriously underpowered and the motors burn up. As a professional, I would need to have a backup saw while it's being repaired. That's unacceptable. To add further insult, the blades are proprietary and the whole thing is nearly triple the price of the competition. I have years of use on my DeWalt 780 with zero issues, and when setup correctly, will easily cut as well as the Kapex.
Great review John, and what difference to working on site having one of these set up makes 🤩(Pete actually looked totally disgusted at the start of the video, like he'd got a bad smell up his nose😆)
Cheers Dell, it is a great bit of kit. Pete definitely wasn't impressed with the makita to start with, but I think this saw may of changed his mind 😉 Hope you're doing OK. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Just one more negative to add, Tony supports DeWalt, that's depressing, it's made by DIY people Black & Decker! ...to put another nail in the coffin, I bet he's got I phone too! ...One is full Makita squad, awesome tools made for the trade ...Norm's
Hi Breeman all tools have their pros and cons I personally don’t have any Dewalt but my friend Pete has all Dewalt and he loves it as many others do, for me festool, Makita but things change Milwaukee are creating some great stuff as well as many others it what works for them all the best Tony 👍
Reading it wrong mate, it’s 92mm cut at the centre point of the bit where the blade changes. As you can see on the video the 6x2 goes up behind the nut which enables you to make bigger cuts.
I have one. It weights a ton so i got the 216mm 40v to leave in the van for doing small jobs, on a big 2nd fix job the big 12 inch cant be beat.
It's 100% better than festool since they just break in a year or 2. I've had 4
Great review and Great saw...Always liked Makita...THE BEST
Hi John nice review! Milwaukee man myself! 😂 it can cut 6” near the fence as you can get up behind the centre of the blade (deeper than the blade radius). Only for say 6x2 though. You wouldn’t be able to do 6x12 in that sense, but as they state 4x12 is achievable with the actual bade radius 👍🏻
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
It will do a 98mm x 382mm cut but if you don't need the 382mm length of cut you can cut deeper cut on short pieces of wood using the back of the blade as you demonstrated in the video.
Exactly, 98x382mm is the largest cross section it will cut.
Great review. Thanks from NZ!
Had a LS1212 for the last 15years, just got this today, onwards and upgrading biatch
Hey A&E, I cant really say I only use one brand, as a trades man I have no loyalty to a brand because some brands keeping the new technology rolling out like hot cakes, makita is a top tool, dewalt is also a top tool with a great price point, where can you get 2x 18v batteries, an impact driver, drill driver, charger and case for £199, only dewalt can do that, but that said I have a fein because they are the real deal when it comes to oscillating tools the founders, as for festool that's specialist tools, domino, their ks120 kapex and edgebander are engineered so that no other brand can compare, all tools have a purpose and all brands make a wicked tool 😉
Always wanted the old school Makita LS1013, back in the day every builder on tv had one of these 😉
I got a Parkside from Lidl £85 its not bad :-) do you want to do a swap?
The saw can cut around 6 inches vertical if it’s baseboard or something thin like that but I think what there saying is a piece or stock that’s 14-15 inches wide can only be 3-1/2” or 90mm
Yep. I was cringing when he kept rambling on about that. It's really simple, like you said...
There is a cutout behind the arbor so it can cut tall and narrow pieces like at 11:57, but it cannot slide over anything taller than 92mm. Hence wider boards need to be thinner than 92mm.
However, you can cut thicker stuff if you cut one side, then flip the work.
Great video. Unlike other pro saws, if you jam a piece of wood in it, you will strip the gears because it is not belt drive. Thank You
Great review, very helpful
I am a Milwaukee user BUT my makita 1019 is miles better than any other saw I have ever used, cheers.
I've just bought one and it is a beast but like you say it is really heavy
It's still the Kapex for me.
I have a 12 inch dewalt have it for the last 16 years .. still cuts square and true.. its heavy.. also if you want a skilsaw I got a bosch 9 1/4 inch would eat anything I've ever used.. so I think I'll try a bosch chop saw next
I just sold my Bosch axial glide and got the Makita. Didn't like the bosch for a few reason but the main ones was dust extraction was absolutely useless. It had pretty bad head flex when cutting wider boards. Way too many flimsy plastic parts. The detents are a soft plastic so they don't last that long. If you need something super accurate the Makita, DeWalt dw780 or if you have the mo ey the kapex. I've tried pretty much every popular saw on the market right now and the Makita beats them all hands down. I have the 36v version of this saw and it's a beast.
Brilliant review. Thanks!
thanks for the balanced review!
Perfer Bosch's 'Axial-Glide GCM 12 GDL for me, & for new blades look at Freud F03FS09763 305mm 72 tooth one.
Any idea why the pull-outs are different on this saw to the black ones show on all the online stores?
Good review. But…..is it accurate? 90° cut, is it square? Really square? Would be good to know peoples thoughts if you have one.
following this comnent. I'm on the fence buying this beast
Thanks tor the review. I hadn’t realised that they’d revised this size machine. There’s a lot of improvements there over the previous model and even the model previous to that! But also a couple of things that maybe aren’t so good? The slides at the side seem a much nicer solution and the adjustment of the tilt from the front is an excellent touch.
No worries James, thank you for watching! 👍
THIS IS NOT A "CHOP SAW" IN THE U.S., IT IS KNOWN AS A DUAL BEVEL, SLIDING, CORDED COMPOUND MITRE SAW. The model may have a different name depending upon which country you purchased it in.
We know but that's a bit long mate . So we say chop saw. In fact we don't even say that we say choppy . Just like we don't say circular saw . We say skill saw because skill made them 1st . We shorten that skilly .
So it's a choppy and a skilly in the UK .
the cut capacity stated for 97mm is at the extended 308mm slide out. a lot of manufacturers quote only at the static cut. the guard of the saw did kick on that x6" board as it came down. on a piece of fine carpentry or furniture cut that would of compromised accuracy.
could you review the mitre indent accuracy. a lot of mitre saws once dialed in at exactly 90deg when moved to a 45 they usually at least 0.2 0f a degree out. this means if you cut a picture frame there are 8 mitre cuts. when you compound 0.2 8 time there is a gap. also if you mitre a door frame architrave (door trim in USA) if the trim is 2.1m long any inaccuracy will result in either the door trim out at the bottom or a mitre gap.
I am on a quest and have yet to find a mitre saw that is actually accurate on the indent no matter how many hours you spend trying to dial them in.
Hi, kapex a good tool for you? I'm undecided between makita and ls1219 and kapex120.
@@giuseppecastaldo644 i have now bought the Makita LS1219. It came with a nice extendable bed too, not available in some locations. Its beast of a saw. It was pretty accurate out of the box. I have made a minior adjustment to the indent plate and dialed in the bevel stops. What i have noticed is in 0° Celsius the indent plate is 0.1 of a degree out. At north Yorkshire current daytime temperature of about 17° Celsius its pretty bang on. A bit like an engineers ruler, calibrated at 20°. Ill just be aware in winter till i get my heating sorted.
The saw is well built, dust extraction works well and the stock blade cuts nice while its new.
So far happy
Nice comprehensive review John 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Thanks guys 😊👍
Just got this saw. Set up but not used as found an issue. Searching for other users and John's advice/experience. My saw when mitering counterclockwise would cut into the high fence on the left side. I have moved the lower fence left as much as possible which is only able to go an 1/8 or so. If I want to miter past 30 degrees I'd have to remove the upper fence on the left side. I Can't find any info on this. Home Depot not that helpful. Makita help line, less helpful. Is my saw a lemon? Am I a lemon? Replace saw or remove material from the left upper fence. Does anyone reading this have any thoughts?
Hi, just wondered the link you have for this saw in the description looks a different saw than the on in the video. The side extending arms are different. Could you help with this as I'm interested in this saw 😁
Great review
Makita LS1013, still the best and available on ebay
Thanks a lot for a really good review of the chop saw you confirmed all that I really need to know about the saw.
Thanks dude! Thinking of getting it buddy?
@@BuildWithAE yep but I can’t decide weather to get a 10” or a 12” at the moment.
Thanks John, I have I have it's little brother and I find it very good, light to carry around.
Hopefully it's a bit lighter than this one!
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Be aware that the bolt that retains the blade is LEFT HAND THREAD, it does tell you in the instruction but if you're like me and just go charging ahead with the assembly you will walk into a whole world of grief when you massively overtighten the bolt trying to undo it ! 😱🤣
Great video
Thank you
ks120>makita ls1219> dws780 in my opinion but I like that makita and dewalt do the cordless versions. As soon as festool join that market it’s game over
You mentioned in the first part that you would judge if it's better than the festool... maybe I missed, but I didn't hear your conclusion about this... so... Is it better or worse?
Saludos cordiales desde Ecuador excelente demostración Master gracias por compartir video, desde que parte del mundo lo grabó??, cuánto le costó en dólares y que modelo es??, gracias
Love the content. The big question though John, how's it stack up against the Festool?
I feel that is slightly over rated
Well done Bro.. Thank you
I’m so confused by the different makita models, what’s the difference between the LS1219l and the XGT model???
The XGT model is cordless 40v or 80v. The one I'm reviewing here, is the corded 110v one.
There are a lot of different ones, so it can be a bit of a minefield 😅
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Are the tall fences on your saw flush with the lower fence? I just set my new ls1219l up and the tall fences are set back from the lower fence. Just wondering if I got a bad one. Seems like some others have had this issue
Very impressed
what is the L stands for , i seen 1219 and there has 1219L
L model has a laser
Hi, makita a good tool for you? I'm undecided between makita and ls1219 and kapex120.
Kapex120 for me all the best Tony 👍
I managed to cut a 91x91 Newel post
I’ve got a makita and I’m about due a new one, my friend has a Kapex and however I try to convince myself I just think the Kapex is better 😩
Kapex are notoriously underpowered and the motors burn up. As a professional, I would need to have a backup saw while it's being repaired. That's unacceptable. To add further insult, the blades are proprietary and the whole thing is nearly triple the price of the competition. I have years of use on my DeWalt 780 with zero issues, and when setup correctly, will easily cut as well as the Kapex.
Thanks John! It’s okay Pete you can review a dewalt in another😉
His time will come! Thanks for watching Tony! 👍
Thought the makita now came with a shadow line like the dewalt?
Think it’s on the new 40v only
Si me responde en español por favor, por que deseo adquirir una de esa máquina gracias
Do u happend to know if u can use dado blade on it?
No you would need to speak to Makita technical 👍
I’ve got the 12inch, is they stand sturdy with such a big saw ?
Yes, the stand takes the weight. I haven't had any problems so far 🙂
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Great review John, and what difference to working on site having one of these set up makes 🤩(Pete actually looked totally disgusted at the start of the video, like he'd got a bad smell up his nose😆)
Cheers Dell, it is a great bit of kit. Pete definitely wasn't impressed with the makita to start with, but I think this saw may of changed his mind 😉
Hope you're doing OK.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
@@BuildWithAE All good this end bud🤩I'll be seeing you soon🤘
Glad to hear it, see you soon 😊
Great review Jon. For some reason I thought it was a battery mitre saw you bought. 🤪
😁 Thanks for watching buddy! 👍
Stop cut is also known as a trench cut
I couldn't think of the correct term whilst filming 🤦♂️ (there's a lot to think about)!
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
just needs an led shadow line instead of a laser.
At first I thought that was a cardboard cut out of Pete looking on
Haha, no that was indeed Pete in the flesh - thanks for watching! 👍
Makita fanboy myself but that stand is weak af. The DeWalt stand is 100% better.
Never a truer word said...
I still don’t get why the 110V exists
Wow
Boy oh boy, it looks heavy to lug about on-site and out of the van each day. Must be pushing past 30kg. Good saw mind you.
Thanks for watching Gavin! 👍
Mate has this saw lovely bit of kit for sure. Super review on it. But lol. Dewalt where it is eh 😂😂😂🤙🤙🤙
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed the review (and not a dewalt in sight)
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
@@BuildWithAE
😝🤟
You guys work the the highest standards in the industry therefore you need the best tools on the market not makita, Maybe use DeWalt
Just one more negative to add, Tony supports DeWalt, that's depressing, it's made by DIY people Black & Decker! ...to put another nail in the coffin, I bet he's got I phone too! ...One is full Makita squad, awesome tools made for the trade ...Norm's
Hi Breeman all tools have their pros and cons I personally don’t have any Dewalt but my friend Pete has all Dewalt and he loves it as many others do, for me festool, Makita but things change Milwaukee are creating some great stuff as well as many others it what works for them all the best Tony 👍
1st
Absolutely NOBODY cares.
Why would you publicly embarrass yourself like that?
@@johncoops6897 I have no idea why this 1st thing is a thing I wonder why 10 yr olds are watching construction videos.
@@tentonhammer5469 - LOL yeah.
60 degrees both sides is amazing.