Great projects take time, great videos are edited for time. Thanks for being so thorough in your efforts. If can be frustrating when you watch people accomplish so much in a 10 minute video and you feel like you aren't as talented. It takes time folks! I've waited years for project Binky and can do the same for yours. Entertaining as always!
Plan on any stiffening ridges along the inside to reduce the flex that was prevalent in the metal part? I know the cross-weave of the CF will eliminate most of that, but it will be interesting to see, once you're laying up the part in the mold, if you decide to add any cross supports. Not sure if there's room with the window mech, but it will be neat to see...
@@1stage Funny you mention that, Mike Patey just did ridges in some parts for his plane to keep the flex down, very educational and could probably be something to use here. He also used some Kevlar to prevent punctures and explained how to work with it. Very interesting! Between these two channels I'm learning a TON about composite fabrication :)
Just a foam core - two different thicknesses for different reasons. I'll go over it in the layup video. I have to hit the original steel thickness pretty bang on to have these door skins work properly.
Such a great series. I love the inspirational notes: "NEVER QUIT". You are talented, but, your work ethic is what really gets the job done. Really helpful, thank you.
I have a 59 Triumph Herald that I'm currently stripping with the same Phillips screws holding the hinges on the doors. I had to soak them in penetrant then I hit them with an 18V impact driver with a phillips bit. Worked every time.
@@ThrottleStopGarage No lock washers. Love your persistence by the way. Almost caught up on your videos after 2x months. I am now toying with the idea of a few carbon fibre parts, where parts aren't available, for the Herald project.
Great job as always, watching your videos as got me trying to find an old 280z to restore. Anything that will fit in my clave is going to be splashed and made 😂😂
Awesome job! I really like the format (the narration over the high-speed/time-lapse video). It helps me understand the process, while not taking hours to watch. What's after the doors? You going to do the dash in carbon fiber?
Hi Vinn, Some major projects are open. I have to get the engine bay done and get the fenders, nose section and doors fit properly. Then...well, there's still a long way to go.
Phew binged watched all the videos in one day.....awesome work mate.....I'm a fan of your work now. Are you putting the bumper back on or are you going to develop and manufacture a gt style chin spoiler to replace the bumper?
For the final door are you going to add a steel crash bar, or have you considered a carbon spar? I worked in aerospace and that is how we made our wings as light as possible. If you do make a spar one method is to use a water soluble plaster as a plug (think of drywall plaster). You do your layup on that and then flush out the plug once it is cured. You are left with a very strong and light structural component. One last tip, look at the panamera door hinges. They hold in any position without detents.
Interesting - the doors are getting a foam core. I won't be doing the crash bar as the car wasn't designed for this sort of thing. My fear is that in the event of a front impact, the doors would wedge in the body with a door bar. The A-pillar and B-pilar just were not designed for that impact. Now, I've got a lot more frame and will do a tubular front end, so I feel safe. I've never seen the Panamera hinges. I'll have a look.
Would making a wooden backing form for the door be an option? I know its one of those complete pain in the butt things to do. But the ability to keep the material in a more solid form. Plus potentially the ability to use a stroke sander if you can get it solid enough. I've spent my time doing an entire car. So its not foreign to me. But I know that any place I can save time on the next project and spend less time sanding by hand the better.
Maybe - hard to know. The back of the door is pretty closed, so access isn't great. I got it done and now have some excellent sanding tools to help me out when the time comes.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yeah i feel bad for making this suggestion after seeing more of the door panel in a later video. I was going off my experience on my Infiniti's and Barracuda. Which all have some decent sized access ports.
Great series, I'm learning a ton! One question though [not a body guy asking here...] would it not make sense to backfill the door cavity with say a spray foam to add rigidity? It could be disolved with acetone after the sanding/mould. Might also help with not having it buckle when making the mould.
The mold won't buckle the door...it gains weight as you make it and it's distributed over the entire door, so it should be fine (famous last words? Tune in to Ep 64...I haven't got the mold made yet!). I also need to use the door shell, so I'd rather not make more work for myself.
so. much. work! know the feeling :) because of the hours you've put into the plug, I would be wary of pure carbon doors... kevlar (or another aramid) is what you want in order to replicate the original steel's impact absorption properties. carbon is stiff & strong, but doesn't absorb any energy in a crash. first it's a spring, and then it shatters into fragments. sure it's lightweight and looks cool, but it's not the right material for an impact zone. kevlar isn't as stiff, but in a crash it pulls slowly through the epoxy matrix, absorbing energy, and will help stop that tree intruding into the cabin. ie. kevlar/epoxy composite is "tough" in the materials science sense of the word. it is similar to steel, which deforms nicely and absorbs a lot of crash energy. carbon is brittle, not tough. so mostly carbon/kevlar weave, or a couple of layers of pure kevlar between carbon outers are what you want... most wrc and motogp panels seem to use one of these mixes from what I can tell. dry kevlar fabric is hard to cut (normal scissors are useless - you need serrated shears), but OTOH it drapes way more easily than carbon, so overall easy to work with. however once cured, kevlar is a nightmare to finish - best I've found is to first angle grind, then perma-grit to sand to v.close, and then 800 wet'n'dry to get rid of the annoying tufts. but IMHO it's the right thing for the job... good luck and keep up the good work.
Thanks for the detailed response. I'm not making pure carbon doors. Stay tuned. Doing my best to keep things safe - these doors are also completely backed up by the inner shell...only a few small holes total. I'll cover the rest when I do the infusion video.
Thanks! As always, terrific content. Even if it was 99% sanding. LOL I've been there, if only once, painting my pickup. Why does a paint job cost so much? Here's some sand paper, you'll have the answer you seek in just five minutes.
So true, and if you don't do it, every flaw will be more visible in the paint. Unfortunately, I will also have to block the finished panels! So doing the entire process twice for one car!
@@ThrottleStopGarage LOL I had a 61 122S decades ago, bought it for $15. It had a broken cam gear, the phenolic one of course. Fixed it and drove the heck out of it.
Slick sand is actually harder to sand than cheap high build in my experience. It's also more expensive...just making a mold, so not looking for long-term durability.
This is probably me being too anal about it but: You make sure your fitment is perfect WITH the paint...and then you remove it before making the mould? With thick paint, aren't you risking to be off by over 1 mm?
Great episode..im gonna watch the next one straight away.
Hope you find them helpful.
I love how you show every painstaking part of it. You really see the craftmanship you are putting into this project. It's great !
Thank you very much!
This channel is pure gold
Thanks.
Great projects take time, great videos are edited for time. Thanks for being so thorough in your efforts. If can be frustrating when you watch people accomplish so much in a 10 minute video and you feel like you aren't as talented. It takes time folks! I've waited years for project Binky and can do the same for yours. Entertaining as always!
Thanks Jeremy. Much appreciated.
That screw tip is an excellent one! Also I love obsession motor sports too!
Thanks. Hope it helps.
Can't wait to see the molds for these!
Me too...preview - POOL NOODLES. Stay tuned.
Plan on any stiffening ridges along the inside to reduce the flex that was prevalent in the metal part? I know the cross-weave of the CF will eliminate most of that, but it will be interesting to see, once you're laying up the part in the mold, if you decide to add any cross supports. Not sure if there's room with the window mech, but it will be neat to see...
@@1stage Funny you mention that, Mike Patey just did ridges in some parts for his plane to keep the flex down, very educational and could probably be something to use here. He also used some Kevlar to prevent punctures and explained how to work with it. Very interesting! Between these two channels I'm learning a TON about composite fabrication :)
Just a foam core - two different thicknesses for different reasons. I'll go over it in the layup video. I have to hit the original steel thickness pretty bang on to have these door skins work properly.
Such a great series. I love the inspirational notes: "NEVER QUIT". You are talented, but, your work ethic is what really gets the job done. Really helpful, thank you.
Thanks - I'm glad you've found these helpful.
Cant wait to see the car finished
As usual, I am blown away by your talent.
Almost 30 years that I dream of carbon for my skateboard, mtb, motorbike ...
Thanks - time to get your skateboard project rolling.
Great stuff.👍 A lot of hard work has gone into them. Thanks for the upload. You’re a perfectionist.👍
It's an illness Nick. Thanks for watching.
Being a perfectionist is more of a problem for someone without the skills to make the most of it. Craig usually makes it look effortless.
I have a 59 Triumph Herald that I'm currently stripping with the same Phillips screws holding the hinges on the doors. I had to soak them in penetrant then I hit them with an 18V impact driver with a phillips bit. Worked every time.
Did they have the lock washers?
@@ThrottleStopGarage No lock washers. Love your persistence by the way. Almost caught up on your videos after 2x months. I am now toying with the idea of a few carbon fibre parts, where parts aren't available, for the Herald project.
Impressive, as always!
Thanks Thomas.
Awesome, love the videos
Glad you like them!
Great job as always, watching your videos as got me trying to find an old 280z to restore. Anything that will fit in my clave is going to be splashed and made 😂😂
Thanks Dan - old 280z's are always rusty, so good candidates for this sort of work.
Amazing work
As usual, preparation is all.
Awesome job! I really like the format (the narration over the high-speed/time-lapse video). It helps me understand the process, while not taking hours to watch. What's after the doors? You going to do the dash in carbon fiber?
Hi Vinn, Some major projects are open. I have to get the engine bay done and get the fenders, nose section and doors fit properly. Then...well, there's still a long way to go.
Phew binged watched all the videos in one day.....awesome work mate.....I'm a fan of your work now. Are you putting the bumper back on or are you going to develop and manufacture a gt style chin spoiler to replace the bumper?
That's OUTRAGEOUS! Thanks. I'm going to be putting a bumper on the front for sure. Still haven't finalized that detail.
Just what I need for my Scimitar SE5A GTE - doors first then complete bodyshell.
Lovely car Harry - a complete body shell would be a lot of work!
For the final door are you going to add a steel crash bar, or have you considered a carbon spar? I worked in aerospace and that is how we made our wings as light as possible.
If you do make a spar one method is to use a water soluble plaster as a plug (think of drywall plaster). You do your layup on that and then flush out the plug once it is cured. You are left with a very strong and light structural component.
One last tip, look at the panamera door hinges. They hold in any position without detents.
Interesting - the doors are getting a foam core. I won't be doing the crash bar as the car wasn't designed for this sort of thing. My fear is that in the event of a front impact, the doors would wedge in the body with a door bar. The A-pillar and B-pilar just were not designed for that impact. Now, I've got a lot more frame and will do a tubular front end, so I feel safe. I've never seen the Panamera hinges. I'll have a look.
@@ThrottleStopGarage It is not so much the hinge that is special about the Panamera. There is a "dampener" that holds the door in position.
Craig , you are an inspiration to your lazy neighbor across the alley.
put a tire valve in the middle of the mold to put som pressure betwen the layer when to seperate them
Would making a wooden backing form for the door be an option? I know its one of those complete pain in the butt things to do. But the ability to keep the material in a more solid form. Plus potentially the ability to use a stroke sander if you can get it solid enough. I've spent my time doing an entire car. So its not foreign to me. But I know that any place I can save time on the next project and spend less time sanding by hand the better.
Maybe - hard to know. The back of the door is pretty closed, so access isn't great. I got it done and now have some excellent sanding tools to help me out when the time comes.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yeah i feel bad for making this suggestion after seeing more of the door panel in a later video. I was going off my experience on my Infiniti's and Barracuda. Which all have some decent sized access ports.
If the paint is in good condition is it necessary to sand it all off before making a mold?
Nope.
Great series, I'm learning a ton! One question though [not a body guy asking here...] would it not make sense to backfill the door cavity with say a spray foam to add rigidity? It could be disolved with acetone after the sanding/mould. Might also help with not having it buckle when making the mould.
The mold won't buckle the door...it gains weight as you make it and it's distributed over the entire door, so it should be fine (famous last words? Tune in to Ep 64...I haven't got the mold made yet!). I also need to use the door shell, so I'd rather not make more work for myself.
so. much. work! know the feeling :)
because of the hours you've put into the plug, I would be wary of pure carbon doors...
kevlar (or another aramid) is what you want in order to replicate the original steel's impact absorption properties.
carbon is stiff & strong, but doesn't absorb any energy in a crash. first it's a spring, and then it shatters into fragments. sure it's lightweight and looks cool, but it's not the right material for an impact zone.
kevlar isn't as stiff, but in a crash it pulls slowly through the epoxy matrix, absorbing energy, and will help stop that tree intruding into the cabin.
ie. kevlar/epoxy composite is "tough" in the materials science sense of the word. it is similar to steel, which deforms nicely and absorbs a lot of crash energy. carbon is brittle, not tough.
so mostly carbon/kevlar weave, or a couple of layers of pure kevlar between carbon outers are what you want... most wrc and motogp panels seem to use one of these mixes from what I can tell.
dry kevlar fabric is hard to cut (normal scissors are useless - you need serrated shears), but OTOH it drapes way more easily than carbon, so overall easy to work with.
however once cured, kevlar is a nightmare to finish - best I've found is to first angle grind, then perma-grit to sand to v.close, and then 800 wet'n'dry to get rid of the annoying tufts.
but IMHO it's the right thing for the job...
good luck and keep up the good work.
Thanks for the detailed response. I'm not making pure carbon doors. Stay tuned. Doing my best to keep things safe - these doors are also completely backed up by the inner shell...only a few small holes total. I'll cover the rest when I do the infusion video.
thanks ; why do you put a plastic sheet over the paint stripper
Keeps it from evaporating.
I was waiting for the song I don't wanna work to come on!
I *thought* I'd already seen this episode! lol
Ya, sorry...only the low definition video got done last night for some reason.
Me too I almost skipped it but wanted to read the description
Will you be making a carbon roof?
Nope. The way the roof panel goes on this car is overly complicated and not like a modern roof panel.
Thanks! As always, terrific content. Even if it was 99% sanding. LOL
I've been there, if only once, painting my pickup. Why does a paint job cost so much? Here's some sand paper, you'll have the answer you seek in just five minutes.
So true, and if you don't do it, every flaw will be more visible in the paint. Unfortunately, I will also have to block the finished panels! So doing the entire process twice for one car!
@@ThrottleStopGarage AHHH Love carbon fiber. Though doesn't each material have it's own challenges.
Great work - your garage must be covered in dust :D
I stopped thinking of it as dust when it's now centimeters deep!
@@ThrottleStopGarage LOL I had a 61 122S decades ago, bought it for $15. It had a broken cam gear, the phenolic one of course. Fixed it and drove the heck out of it.
@@kisoia That's how I got this very car! Broken cam gear!
Evercoat make stuff called Slick Sand that would have cut that in half the time .
Slick sand is actually harder to sand than cheap high build in my experience. It's also more expensive...just making a mold, so not looking for long-term durability.
Waiting for my carbon fiber mold to dry, so I'm watching you suffer :) great work
Awesome...hope your part turns out.
Would I be able to email you with some questions?
Facebook or Instagram DM works.
Yeah! Again! 😂
This time in HD! Sorry about that.
It took a long time to get the funk out. Just sayin'.... :)
LOL - I put that little gem in there past where the not serious viewers cut out. A little bit of fun for fans of Binky.
you are a glutton for punishment .. stay strong .. good job .
This is probably me being too anal about it but:
You make sure your fitment is perfect WITH the paint...and then you remove it before making the mould? With thick paint, aren't you risking to be off by over 1 mm?