Great stuff!...and pretty outstanding results! Foam tubes are a great, inexpensive way to fill that volume and make a strong, tubular structure...we found that polyester resin attacks many foams, but epoxy resin doesn't...it's obviously a materials compatibility issue, but once you know, you know forever. and you can file it away for the future, because using foam for structural reinforcement is a very effective technique. ...when you were using that dental grinder, I was half expecting to hear "...let me know if this hurts". Thanks for posting as always. Cheers
@@ThrottleStopGarage I spent several weekends at a custom aircraft shop in Santa Monica, California back in 2009. I was helping a friend who had convinced the owner to help with a two-piece carbon fiber cowl for his modified Christen Eagle Aerobatic biplane. When it was time to take the two halves off the molds, my friend was pulling, tugging, and cursing. The owner watched him struggling for quite a while from across the shop. Eventually he walked up with a rather large plastic mallet and gave the parts several hard hits and they both popped out of the molds, no cracks, or scratches, nothing. My friend was surprised to say the least and asked what the hell?! The owner said "that's how it's done, if you want the part sometime this year!"Unfortunately, my friend died in plane crash (different plane) in 2012, but the plane he modified is still out there. Search for "Blue Eagle N540BE".
During my first wifetime, I worked as the maint. eng. of a tub and shower mfg. plant. To get air to the areas that was suspected to be difficult, we installed a small hole, glassed an air quick disconnect over the hole on the back of the mold, then you put an adhesive dot ie. tape over the inside of the mold. When it comes time to remove your part, just hook an air hose to the ports you installed.
we used similar ideas with large water tank molds, but we'd fiberglass a copper pipe into the hole in the centre and run it out to the edge where we could introduce the air, cellophane tape would react with the gelcoat and wrinkle up, so we used an adhesive paper dot over the hole
On pass three through this as motivation for when I finally get clear of interior wiring (have to make the car mobile again). Keep up the content and the “well here’s how I did it wrong” attitude. Composite Envisions, will be shopping this summer for some S-glass and Kevlar to make door skins.
@@ThrottleStopGarage great videos, full of useful info... how much weight do you think you lost by replacing all the parts with carbon? Awsome project, thank you for sharing it with us.
Thank you so much for your work and Sharing it with us on TH-cam you have inspired me to do carbon panels on my Corvette I hope they come out half as good as yours and I will be very happy
Man, the suspense before those things pop lose! Great video, thanks for sharing I live in Sweden, the land of the Volvos, let me know if you ever need help sourcing parts.
These vids are great and perhaps it's coming up in the cost comparison but I would love to see a pros and cons and costs of the various carbon methods, wet, infusion and pre preg. I'm sure you would do a great job with all the methods but be good to understand the benefits of each for someone starting out.
I am only starting out. I've only ever infused or wet-laid parts. To date, I've never used any pre-preg. I know what I've read and that's why I selected infusion.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I thought the point of these vids and TH-cam generally was for those too lazy to read haha! Please share your thoughts and experience on other methods or why you chose this. Oven aside, pre preg looks easy and I'm sure you could bash up a better oven than you did so far.
@@benheynen2705 Prepreg is not easy - sure it looks easy but so does infusion. You still need a vacuum for compression and it's sticky and can be hard to deal with I'm told. None of this is low-skilled work. It's all hard. This is not my career and I try to not make it my job. So the oven served its purpose and it's now taken apart.
Nice video. I'm gonna start sending this to people that want quotes for me to do custom carbon parts for them. Most people have no idea how long Molds take to make. Also, not sure if you showed a close up of the gel coat but I've heard it referred to as "aligatoring" cause it resembles alligator skin. Usually cold temps and/or an undercatalized gelcoat are the culprits for that issue.
great video...i always look forward to your videos. Have you thought about doing a video of your molding experience thus far? like things you done in the past that you wouldnt recommend vs the new knowledge you have? like a recap. saving the newbies like myself some frustration lol. Thanks
Using air helps reales it. You put the nozzle in between the mold and model..same spots you’re trying to pry on. So you’re pry a spot just a little to help get air between them and do that around the mold
It might help if the finish is as smooth as can be, so smooth that when you remove the door the gel-coat is shiny, worked around a lot of mold making for boats and windmills, the plugs where always wet sand and buffed and buffed and buffed, then waxed 3x...
I've done it both ways - no real difference. Depends on what the mold is for. As these are primed parts, I don't see the point in polishing the molds. I did wet sand to 1000 grit. THat's fine.
Guessing there must be some sort of spray adesive or paint etc that would quickly, easily and cheaply seal the pool noodles so they dont absorbe so much, suppose you could just wrap them in packing tape. Perhaps contact adesive would work better for glueing them down?
I just found your channel and enjoying it. My total knowledge about applying fiberglass comes from various TH-cam vids. But I'm interested in learning. I counted, or miscounted, 11 layers fiberglass. From my point of view of ignorance, that seems like an awful lot compared to some small boat building projects for example. Is it because you want rigidity? Thanks
There are six total layers in these molds. It's about thickness not how many layers per se. Shoot for around 1/4" or 6 mm thick. Floppy mods are not a great idea.
Hi It was great seeing those panels break loose nicely done. I would love to stop by seeing we are fairly close together once the all clear on the virus problems are over if its ok with you.I am on Face book.
The wrinkles in the gelcoat are an issue called pox, it can be prevented by mixing the gelcoat between each brush stroke and/or allowing the gelcoat to cure in a warm environment
Hi Gord - there in this listing. Thanks. teespring.com/en/throttle-stop-garage-volvo-can?cid=2745&country=CA¤cy=CAD&pid=46&tsmac=google&tsmic=youtube&YT-ChMInIja1pr_6AIVy8LECh1tKwEuGhhVQ3N4LUhUSVlQbjNDaUJRRmQ0ck15WHciGHhRaFNYbEFZdmVzdF9jTmF2MlJfZGNwOCiT9AEyIWNkc3xPfDE3MDI1OTE4MHxDQXxlbnw2ODM5Mjc5Ny00NkIMn5ixC-Sisguxs7ILSgNXRUJSCjIuMjAyMDA0MjI%3D&UCsx-HTIYPn3CiBQFd4rMyXw&view_as=USA
Amazing job! I can't wait to see every pannel finished Are you gonnna make only the doorskins out of carbon or are you also gonna make the rest out of carbon as well?
Neat trick with the snoodles.... or whatever they are.... Used to beat the heck outa each other with them in the pool when I was a teen.... Or pretend to be gordy howe and smack each other in the face with them like hockey sticks ^+^
there is a guy in aus that does a ton of fiberglass videos and he was saying wrinkling of the gelcoat (alligatoring he calls it) is from the gelcoat not being thick enough. Maybe your black gelcoat wasn't enough? he's got some weird ways of doing stuff though so who knows Either way, great job!
Tripe is another well known term for it here in Australia, it can be caused by the gelcoat not being fully cured when the next layer is applied (either a backup layer of gelcoat or the actual fibreglass laminate)
You'll have to contact someone that makes them. My guess (they're about the same size) - molds (inside and out) would be $1000 and the carbon materials would be about the same. You may have aftermarket options.
If I buy a t-shirt, will you commit to putting the proceeds towards a back support belt that you can lay down next to your gloves when you lift heavy items? Pain from back injuries is debilitating. I have invested 65 episodes of my life in this project (so far), and I intend to see this project through to the end. SO, STOP LIFTING AND TWISTING, AND WEAR A DAMNED BACK SUPPORT!!!
Deal - my lifting belt is still stuck in my gym locker...I do hear you and appreciate the comment. I've been surgically repaired twice - there isn't a third time and I do know better.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yikes! Two times? And, you still have not learned? That's it! Next time I see you in the shop without your belt laying next to your gloves on the bench, I am going to call your wife... maybe even your mother!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I hope that you are at least doing back strengthening exercises. Do the following and you will never need surgery again... the first when you get out of bed; the second before you leave the house; and, the third before you go into the garage in the evening: th-cam.com/video/m4-MLaa4nCs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/lcKtCbai7hQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/DWmGArQBtFI/w-d-xo.html
@@mr.esq.8635 No excuse - the scars on my back tell a story. It's safer with a belt - no question. My wife is an Olympic Lifting champion - so when I need real muscle, I call her.
@@ThrottleStopGarage My order has been completed. Now, you are committed. Don't let your viewers down with empty promises... and, thanks for having great content that has not devolved into a worthless info-commercial similar to regular television car shows and of other TH-cam channels! I might even be forced to buy a toque if you keep up the hard work :)
Wow! SO much material used for the moulds alone.🤯
That's what's needed.
I've seen professional carbon fiber ships use way less fiberglass for making molds. Total waste of money for one off carbon parts.
I'm in complete awe of the work you're putting into these molds alone. You're a constant inspiration for my own project. Thanks for the great videos!
Glad you like them! I'm just trying to get better at making the molds. It's a real challenge.
Can not wait to see your engine build..... Your work is great.
Trust me...I can't wait to get onto the engine as well!
Great stuff!...and pretty outstanding results! Foam tubes are a great, inexpensive way to fill that volume and make a strong, tubular structure...we found that polyester resin attacks many foams, but epoxy resin doesn't...it's obviously a materials compatibility issue, but once you know, you know forever. and you can file it away for the future, because using foam for structural reinforcement is a very effective technique.
...when you were using that dental grinder, I was half expecting to hear "...let me know if this hurts". Thanks for posting as always. Cheers
Thanks Ron - every time I tap a mold with a hammer, I thank you for the tip!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I spent several weekends at a custom aircraft shop in Santa Monica, California back in 2009. I was helping a friend who had convinced the owner to help with a two-piece carbon fiber cowl for his modified Christen Eagle Aerobatic biplane. When it was time to take the two halves off the molds, my friend was pulling, tugging, and cursing. The owner watched him struggling for quite a while from across the shop. Eventually he walked up with a rather large plastic mallet and gave the parts several hard hits and they both popped out of the molds, no cracks, or scratches, nothing. My friend was surprised to say the least and asked what the hell?! The owner said "that's how it's done, if you want the part sometime this year!"Unfortunately, my friend died in plane crash (different plane) in 2012, but the plane he modified is still out there. Search for "Blue Eagle N540BE".
During my first wifetime, I worked as the maint. eng. of a tub and shower mfg. plant. To get air to the areas that was suspected to be difficult, we installed a small hole, glassed an air quick disconnect over the hole on the back of the mold, then you put an adhesive dot ie. tape over the inside of the mold. When it comes time to remove your part, just hook an air hose to the ports you installed.
I'm too scared to try it...I can se how that would really work.
@@ThrottleStopGarage That 1st wifetime was in the late 70's, it works. Try it on a small part with with dubious curvature.
we used similar ideas with large water tank molds, but we'd fiberglass a copper pipe into the hole in the centre and run it out to the edge where we could introduce the air, cellophane tape would react with the gelcoat and wrinkle up, so we used an adhesive paper dot over the hole
On pass three through this as motivation for when I finally get clear of interior wiring (have to make the car mobile again). Keep up the content and the “well here’s how I did it wrong” attitude. Composite Envisions, will be shopping this summer for some S-glass and Kevlar to make door skins.
You can do it!
Only vids on my sub list that I actually look forward to watching! Amazing work!
Wow, thanks!
Love the music while trying to get the parts out of the molds
Thanks - it just seems right!
@@ThrottleStopGarage great videos, full of useful info... how much weight do you think you lost by replacing all the parts with carbon? Awsome project, thank you for sharing it with us.
Great work as always! I hope that one day some of us Canadians will get to see the completed car!
Stupid enough to start...stubborn enough to finish. One day, it will be done.
Another great video Craig.
Thanks for watching
I did get a laugh out your video that I wasn’t expecting, adds a fun dimension.
I try to keep it real...the comedy just happens.
I've seen guys drill holes in the wedges so you can insert an air blower. Great work!
I have one. No where to insert it on this mold. When I make the skin - that's where it will work.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Hammer it is then :-)
Thank you so much for your work and Sharing it with us on TH-cam you have inspired me to do carbon panels on my Corvette I hope they come out half as good as yours and I will be very happy
Glad to help - Have fun making the panels!
Man, the suspense before those things pop lose!
Great video, thanks for sharing
I live in Sweden, the land of the Volvos, let me know if you ever need help sourcing parts.
Thanks! 👍
These vids are great and perhaps it's coming up in the cost comparison but I would love to see a pros and cons and costs of the various carbon methods, wet, infusion and pre preg. I'm sure you would do a great job with all the methods but be good to understand the benefits of each for someone starting out.
I am only starting out. I've only ever infused or wet-laid parts. To date, I've never used any pre-preg. I know what I've read and that's why I selected infusion.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I thought the point of these vids and TH-cam generally was for those too lazy to read haha! Please share your thoughts and experience on other methods or why you chose this. Oven aside, pre preg looks easy and I'm sure you could bash up a better oven than you did so far.
@@benheynen2705 Prepreg is not easy - sure it looks easy but so does infusion. You still need a vacuum for compression and it's sticky and can be hard to deal with I'm told. None of this is low-skilled work. It's all hard. This is not my career and I try to not make it my job. So the oven served its purpose and it's now taken apart.
Nice work my friend! Keep it up, cheers, Doug
Thanks Doug.
Nice video. I'm gonna start sending this to people that want quotes for me to do custom carbon parts for them. Most people have no idea how long Molds take to make. Also, not sure if you showed a close up of the gel coat but I've heard it referred to as "aligatoring" cause it resembles alligator skin. Usually cold temps and/or an undercatalized gelcoat are the culprits for that issue.
Everytime someone asks if I can make a hood for their X or Y car...NOPE. I hope this helps - it's so much work.
Awesome thanks for showing
Thanks for watching!
As always great video. Please put a credit on for the soundtrack used. Really want to know what that soundtrack is.
Song at 22:38
I'll look it up and add it to the description.
@@ThrottleStopGarage thank you 👌
Amazing work as usual👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
great video...i always look forward to your videos. Have you thought about doing a video of your molding experience thus far? like things you done in the past that you wouldnt recommend vs the new knowledge you have? like a recap. saving the newbies like myself some frustration lol. Thanks
Great idea! Hadn't thought of it - but will give it a shot.
Lightly tap corners and flat surfaces with a rubber mallet. GENTLY!
I did - thanks.
I should have watched to the end of the episode before commenting. After I finished I had a good laugh as you did it perfectly.
Using air helps reales it. You put the nozzle in between the mold and model..same spots you’re trying to pry on. So you’re pry a spot just a little to help get air between them and do that around the mold
No doubt...if you design the mold to include this feature.
It might help if the finish is as smooth as can be, so smooth that when you remove the door the gel-coat is shiny, worked around a lot of mold making for boats and windmills, the plugs where always wet sand and buffed and buffed and buffed, then waxed 3x...
I've done it both ways - no real difference. Depends on what the mold is for. As these are primed parts, I don't see the point in polishing the molds. I did wet sand to 1000 grit. THat's fine.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Not talking about the molds, talking about the plug the smoother it is the easier it is to remove...
Love your channel by the way.
Thank you so much! Lots of work.
Guessing there must be some sort of spray adesive or paint etc that would quickly, easily and cheaply seal the pool noodles so they dont absorbe so much, suppose you could just wrap them in packing tape. Perhaps contact adesive would work better for glueing them down?
Contact adhesive - why didn't I think of that...like there's a can of it over my right shoulder!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I assumed you were out of 77.
You should try pva as mould release.
I like that more than chemical release. Keep up the good work
Why didn't you mold the upper part of the doors?
This is so much work! Thank you!
The window frame is complex and welded to the back of door. I am only doing the skin. The skin doesn't extend to the door frame.
@@ThrottleStopGarage OK. Looking forward for the finished doors. Thanks for the reply!
I just found your channel and enjoying it. My total knowledge about applying fiberglass comes from various TH-cam vids. But I'm interested in learning. I counted, or miscounted, 11 layers fiberglass. From my point of view of ignorance, that seems like an awful lot compared to some small boat building projects for example. Is it because you want rigidity? Thanks
There are six total layers in these molds. It's about thickness not how many layers per se. Shoot for around 1/4" or 6 mm thick. Floppy mods are not a great idea.
Hi It was great seeing those panels break loose nicely done. I would love to stop by seeing we are fairly close together once the all clear on the virus problems are over if its ok with you.I am on Face book.
Hey! You got a shout-out in the last Ronald Finger video :) cool
There's a first time for everything!
You should use air to pot the mould lol, loving you demos
Did you let the surfacing veil layer dry before you put the chop strand mat on top or it?
Yes
The wrinkles in the gelcoat are an issue called pox, it can be prevented by mixing the gelcoat between each brush stroke and/or allowing the gelcoat to cure in a warm environment
12:28 my favorite line in the video,
LOL.
12:53 I think you have to use air right there
The air would go between the door and the mold.
Polyethylene foam, usually for pool noodles. Great video, as usual.
Cool, thanks
Where do you get the air dry for the gelcoat?
Fibreglass supply shop.
You mentioned touques in a recent video. I'd like to buy one but I don't see them at the store...
Hi Gord - there in this listing. Thanks. teespring.com/en/throttle-stop-garage-volvo-can?cid=2745&country=CA¤cy=CAD&pid=46&tsmac=google&tsmic=youtube&YT-ChMInIja1pr_6AIVy8LECh1tKwEuGhhVQ3N4LUhUSVlQbjNDaUJRRmQ0ck15WHciGHhRaFNYbEFZdmVzdF9jTmF2MlJfZGNwOCiT9AEyIWNkc3xPfDE3MDI1OTE4MHxDQXxlbnw2ODM5Mjc5Ny00NkIMn5ixC-Sisguxs7ILSgNXRUJSCjIuMjAyMDA0MjI%3D&UCsx-HTIYPn3CiBQFd4rMyXw&view_as=USA
Are you gonna do Carbon fiber wheels?
Nope
Amazing job! I can't wait to see every pannel finished
Are you gonnna make only the doorskins out of carbon or are you also gonna make the rest out of carbon as well?
Just the skins Aaron. The rest would be three more molds per door...and I don't see the point.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I see I see
Makes sense
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
Thank you
Stay safe!
Do you use wax and release agent? Why didn't you do the tops?
I use a chemical release agent - Freekote 701-NC.
Neat trick with the snoodles.... or whatever they are.... Used to beat the heck outa each other with them in the pool when I was a teen.... Or pretend to be gordy howe and smack each other in the face with them like hockey sticks ^+^
Mr. Howe would approve.
How many gallons of resin did you end up using?
All in - 4 complete gallons!
there is a guy in aus that does a ton of fiberglass videos and he was saying wrinkling of the gelcoat (alligatoring he calls it) is from the gelcoat not being thick enough. Maybe your black gelcoat wasn't enough? he's got some weird ways of doing stuff though so who knows
Either way, great job!
I'm going to do some asking.
Tripe is another well known term for it here in Australia, it can be caused by the gelcoat not being fully cured when the next layer is applied (either a backup layer of gelcoat or the actual fibreglass laminate)
What is going on with the upper door glass frame?
That will be the original steel frame.
Nice work sir are you still out of gloves if you are let me know i can send you a couple boxes of gloves i am in the states
Thanks Aaron - I did get some.
How much would it cost for me to have carbon fiber doors made for a 2013 Ford Mustang BOSS 302
You'll have to contact someone that makes them. My guess (they're about the same size) - molds (inside and out) would be $1000 and the carbon materials would be about the same. You may have aftermarket options.
Alright, because I found a bunch of other carbon fiber parts for the car but I couldn’t find the doors , I’m doing an FD build
I recognize one of those boxes!
START THE CAR!!!!!
I believe that the pool noodles are made from EPP foam.
12:50 you should have used air 😂❤
I know...lol
Pool noodles are made of Expanded Low Density Polyethylene (think: the flimsiest plastic bag material).
PS. That's why not much sticks to them, too. It's hard to find anything that sticks to PE.
Thanks Tom.
Want to do to a 2000 toyota tacoma
Sorry - just doing my own parts.
Spray foam sticks water pipe insulation as pseudo pool noodles.
Thanks - good tip.
I like your work it's so nice 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I hope to halp you for the door but sorry i life in kuwait 👍🏻
Thanks Adrian. Stay safe.
15:23 😉
PROKOFIED????
If I buy a t-shirt, will you commit to putting the proceeds towards a back support belt that you can lay down next to your gloves when you lift heavy items? Pain from back injuries is debilitating. I have invested 65 episodes of my life in this project (so far), and I intend to see this project through to the end. SO, STOP LIFTING AND TWISTING, AND WEAR A DAMNED BACK SUPPORT!!!
Deal - my lifting belt is still stuck in my gym locker...I do hear you and appreciate the comment. I've been surgically repaired twice - there isn't a third time and I do know better.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Yikes! Two times? And, you still have not learned? That's it! Next time I see you in the shop without your belt laying next to your gloves on the bench, I am going to call your wife... maybe even your mother!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I hope that you are at least doing back strengthening exercises. Do the following and you will never need surgery again... the first when you get out of bed; the second before you leave the house; and, the third before you go into the garage in the evening:
th-cam.com/video/m4-MLaa4nCs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/lcKtCbai7hQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/DWmGArQBtFI/w-d-xo.html
@@mr.esq.8635 No excuse - the scars on my back tell a story. It's safer with a belt - no question. My wife is an Olympic Lifting champion - so when I need real muscle, I call her.
@@ThrottleStopGarage My order has been completed. Now, you are committed. Don't let your viewers down with empty promises... and, thanks for having great content that has not devolved into a worthless info-commercial similar to regular television car shows and of other TH-cam channels! I might even be forced to buy a toque if you keep up the hard work :)
14:08 nice hammer 😉
Please wear a dust mask
Use a jig saw with a permagrit blade less dust watch my vids
Maybe on the next project.