I love your work man. You help break the barrier to entry into composite molding by working through your project. Even more importantly, you show fails or gotcha items. Thanks!
Thumbs up for the aluminum flashing. Slick surface, very easy to form contours, and reusable. I'd skip the foam backing but if needed, I'll use 1/8 fiber boards instead. Even better, pre-glue the flashing to the fiber board using flooring adhesive and rip them into 8 pieces on a table saw.
It was a great suggestion from a viewer! I found the foam backing made sure it stayed put while I was doing the fibreglass. A lot of this was done in the winter - so my garage is pretty cold and the hot melt alone was not enough to keep the flange secured. Pre-gluing - never thought of that but that's a great idea.
Boat builder by trade so I really enjoy the familiarity with the body work and mold/plug building process When building flanges we always used the ugliest cheapest formica available, it's already so slick you can pva if you wanted. Just a clay fillet for a radius. Another method we used for part release is; we use a 4" length of 1/4" copper pipe and flare the end sitting on the part. Find a spot with a cutout and stand the pipe up, apply resin putty around it neatly then do your gelcoat/layup after it hardens. When you go to pull the part, simply stick an air hose (blower nozzle) in the copper pipe and the air will pop the part off, often without doing anything other than trimming the flange. No wedges needed
@@ThrottleStopGarage I will be posting a foam shaping video soon. I am thinking about just laying up over foam for a one off part. Partially because of supply shortage. I'll post you a link when I post it. I would love to have some advice
@@sheanyquist Hi Shea! I would like see what you are doing, because I want to make a fairing for my motorcycles, and what a like to do is make them loocks like a race motorcycle from de 60s and 70s stile, is it that you are doing? Much oblige from Brazil.
@@paulolodicora4471 I am making some crazy electric bike and motorcycles. I am a metal fab/ engineer and I am just starting in composites. I need to expand me skills but I'm kinda just bumbling through this process right now. Feel free to check out my channel and help me figure this stuff out?
@@sheanyquist Knowing that one content creator I am subscribed to watches another creator I also subscribe to just puts a smile on my face. Both of you have amazing content, thank you.
Since you won't come to Minnesota to build me a carbon hood for my t-bird, you need to keep the videos coming... If I ever get my endless list of projects done, I'll try building the hood...😮
I was recently helping my father with some door work on a vehicle. Needed to block off the doors on the truck cab at night to keep the animals out. I just took a sheet of Plywood and Kerf Cut it in the areas i needed to form to the compound curves. Add some additional structure after you have it in place and done. I figure this could work well for backing areas like the glass of this door. Potentially saving time fighting with thin sheet metals that have a memory to them.
I have used good quality double stick foam tape for mounting flanges, the one I like is used for setting double pane glass in vinyl windows. Thanks for another episode :D
I was thinking of using 3M mounting tape - but didn't have enough. Many stores are closed in Canada and getting things shipped...well, they're quoting mid May right now. So making due with what I have.
I lives in Sweden, amazing work you do to this Amazon. Just let me know if it's some parts for the car you not find then I can help you look here in Sweden !
I realize it's been a while since this vid but that filleting was is available through EZ composites from the UK. They also deal in Canada. I'm sure u also know they have many help vids but I watch them over sometimes.
Hi, hot glue not adhering to metal because metal to cold it pulls all temperature from glue to fast, you can use hot air gun of just hairdryer to warm up metal and reactivate glue. Also useful technique to grate some glue and spread it cold, then warm up to melt.
So the window frames won't be part of the doorskin? It seems like if you were going to do them, it would be better to make the window flat and support it from underneath? Love these videos.
The window frame is a separate part from the door skin. I did make the blocking panel flat and it's supported. There are a lot of curves and complex parts to these doors. Not like a modern door at all. This was the "best" solution that I could come up with.
Excellent work! I'm looking to restore my hot rod and to build a same model race car out of CF for the body. Instead of building molds, could one lay a sheet of CF to on top of the door/fender... creating the outer skin or mold? Then re-enforce the skin by adding layers of CF behind it? I understand that the finished product will be a few mils thicker, however not an issue for my project. Thank you.
Hey there. Maybe I missed it but I don’t understand why the top portion of the door frame is not part of your mould. Can you let us know??? I’m looking to do my doors soon enough and looking for all the tips I can get! Thanks
Because it's really part of the back face of the door. There is a skin, but the door frame (and glass channels etc) are welded into the back panel of the door. It would take 3 more molds per door to make the entire door and it's not worth it and not really as safe as I'd like.
Throttle Stop Garage thanks. That makes sense. I’m loving this series - I’m pretty much doing the same thing with my car but no where near as advanced as your project. These vids are really helpful
Tuk = beanie? Love your videos. I want to do something similar when I can finally pick up a classic car. (I want it to look factory, but perform well.)
@@ThrottleStopGarage it does! I use soft filleting wax or plasticine if I need to fill large voids or add temporary flanges, but sealing perimeters is much easier with caulk 👍🏻
Love the videos as always. I'm wondering for your door to window transition area, would it be helpful to create a two part mold of JUST THAT spot, so you can create a glue-on 90 section from behind + the felt retainer. Maybe it's a piece you can create with part of this mold after its done? If you had wax for filling the crevices, I would wonder if a heat gun/hair dryer plus a tape line (that you remove) wouldn't help make very clean transitions. *Just spit-balling* This co indicates they have Canadian distributors and filleting wax: www.compositesone.com/wp-content/uploads/MROLineCard.pdf
You may also find a plastic called Polycaprolactone (pellet or sheet form) useful in certain circumstance where you need to mold something temporary and rigid in one of your forms. It becomes molten/gel like in 150F water and is reusable. It seems to be available on (ebay / Amazon) as well as under some trade names. It's also useful for molding dental appliances or...customizing vampire teeth caps for those Halloween parties. www.robotroom.com/Prototype-Plastic.html
The wood trim is making the return flange for that part of the mold. I'll then glue it on and job done. I really don't like the idea of vacuum infusion on a part that would return on itself like that. I'm sure it can be done - but not by me.
Hey, if you really need the Pelikan filleting wax (i use the yellow one for my Carbon Projects) I can send you tons of it via airmail directly from Germany :) just hit me up. This stuff is really cheap around here. Thanks for the awesome content! keep it Up and stay safe! Greets from Germany
@@swealer I'll let you know if I can't source it easily. I just couldn't get it on Amazon...which is not surprising. Many things available in the USA are not for sale in Canada. Stay safe.
I love your work man. You help break the barrier to entry into composite molding by working through your project. Even more importantly, you show fails or gotcha items. Thanks!
Thanks Gregory - trying to cover areas I had to learn the hard way...and continue to learn the hard way.
Thumbs up for the aluminum flashing. Slick surface, very easy to form contours, and reusable. I'd skip the foam backing but if needed, I'll use 1/8 fiber boards instead. Even better, pre-glue the flashing to the fiber board using flooring adhesive and rip them into 8 pieces on a table saw.
It was a great suggestion from a viewer! I found the foam backing made sure it stayed put while I was doing the fibreglass. A lot of this was done in the winter - so my garage is pretty cold and the hot melt alone was not enough to keep the flange secured. Pre-gluing - never thought of that but that's a great idea.
Boat builder by trade so I really enjoy the familiarity with the body work and mold/plug building process
When building flanges we always used the ugliest cheapest formica available, it's already so slick you can pva if you wanted. Just a clay fillet for a radius.
Another method we used for part release is; we use a 4" length of 1/4" copper pipe and flare the end sitting on the part. Find a spot with a cutout and stand the pipe up, apply resin putty around it neatly then do your gelcoat/layup after it hardens.
When you go to pull the part, simply stick an air hose (blower nozzle) in the copper pipe and the air will pop the part off, often without doing anything other than trimming the flange. No wedges needed
Cool - thanks for the input.
I'm right in the middle of a motorcycle fairing project. This is really great content!!!
Thanks Shea - good luck with the fairing.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I will be posting a foam shaping video soon. I am thinking about just laying up over foam for a one off part. Partially because of supply shortage. I'll post you a link when I post it. I would love to have some advice
@@sheanyquist Hi Shea! I would like see what you are doing, because I want to make a fairing for my motorcycles, and what a like to do is make them loocks like a race motorcycle from de 60s and 70s stile, is it that you are doing? Much oblige from Brazil.
@@paulolodicora4471 I am making some crazy electric bike and motorcycles. I am a metal fab/ engineer and I am just starting in composites. I need to expand me skills but I'm kinda just bumbling through this process right now. Feel free to check out my channel and help me figure this stuff out?
@@sheanyquist Knowing that one content creator I am subscribed to watches another creator I also subscribe to just puts a smile on my face. Both of you have amazing content, thank you.
Since you won't come to Minnesota to build me a carbon hood for my t-bird, you need to keep the videos coming... If I ever get my endless list of projects done, I'll try building the hood...😮
At this point...they won't let us across the border. Stay safe.
@@ThrottleStopGarage you didn't say no this time, so when this stuff is over...🤔
@@AndyFromm LOL - sorry, didn't mean to get your hopes up.
@@ThrottleStopGarage 😮
@@ThrottleStopGarage if you get bored, you can check it out and see why I want a different hood...
th-cam.com/video/UOjYlWPxUX4/w-d-xo.html
Excellent work! I have been wanting to get into this for many years, but I dont have a garage.
I was recently helping my father with some door work on a vehicle. Needed to block off the doors on the truck cab at night to keep the animals out. I just took a sheet of Plywood and Kerf Cut it in the areas i needed to form to the compound curves. Add some additional structure after you have it in place and done. I figure this could work well for backing areas like the glass of this door. Potentially saving time fighting with thin sheet metals that have a memory to them.
I now have an 8" gear drive DA and a real air board to help with the next phase of bodywork.
It's episode 64 nice work with the doors
I know - I couldn't fix it as there is no room in the garage to reshoot the opening and I'm already building the molds!
I'm looking forward to the episode when you put the two halves of the door together. I'm interested in your technique. Great channel BTW.
I have used good quality double stick foam tape for mounting flanges, the one I like is used for setting double pane glass in vinyl windows. Thanks for another episode :D
I was thinking of using 3M mounting tape - but didn't have enough. Many stores are closed in Canada and getting things shipped...well, they're quoting mid May right now. So making due with what I have.
I use cardboard from the dollar store & Tyvek on the cardboard, the resin doesn't stick to the Tyvek tape.
I lives in Sweden, amazing work you do to this Amazon. Just let me know if it's some parts for the car you not find then I can help you look here in Sweden !
Thanks - much appreciated.
Thanks for one more cool video ! I always
enjoy seeing it, salute to your efforts : it takes a lot of time.
Stay Safe and Healthy!
Can't wait to see the part 2! Cheers
I realize it's been a while since this vid but that filleting was is available through EZ composites from the UK. They also deal in Canada. I'm sure u also know they have many help vids but I watch them over sometimes.
Yes, that's where I got the wax in the end. Very helpful.
Hi, hot glue not adhering to metal because metal to cold it pulls all temperature from glue to fast, you can use hot air gun of just hairdryer to warm up metal and reactivate glue.
Also useful technique to grate some glue and spread it cold, then warm up to melt.
Great tip - I was wondering, but every time the glue would pull off the paint overspray. I will try the hot air gun technique on the next molds.
So the window frames won't be part of the doorskin? It seems like if you were going to do them, it would be better to make the window flat and support it from underneath? Love these videos.
The window frame is a separate part from the door skin. I did make the blocking panel flat and it's supported. There are a lot of curves and complex parts to these doors. Not like a modern door at all. This was the "best" solution that I could come up with.
@@ThrottleStopGarage That's what I was wondering. Makes sense, thanks for clearing that up.
Are you going to do the inner door structure out of carbon as well or just the outer door skins?
They're far too complicated and would require several more molds. So just doing the skin this time.
@@ThrottleStopGarage please build the inner doors to, it will be fun.
Excellent work! I'm looking to restore my hot rod and to build a same model race car out of CF for the body. Instead of building molds, could one lay a sheet of CF to on top of the door/fender... creating the outer skin or mold? Then re-enforce the skin by adding layers of CF behind it? I understand that the finished product will be a few mils thicker, however not an issue for my project. Thank you.
I don't think that will work very well.
So are you doing just the door skins or the door frame to ?? Good content
Just skins this time.
You need to be the guy to start making carbon fiber 240 parts in north america! Doors, hood, fenders, and hatch please.
Jay Scott Check out G2carbon on insta they make tons of 240 carbon parts.
HI Jay - Maybe next...I've got a 242 Turbo and a long roof.
@@cesazz I feel like you are talking about s13-15 240 parts. I'm talking about Volvo 240 parts...
@@ThrottleStopGarage Well I would love to get some from you! I have an 84 240 that would love to be a test mule!
Jay Scott My mistake, I realized later you meant volvo.
20 000 subscribers 💪🏻
I know - how crazy is that!
Subbed tho this is a cool project. And yaaa Canada
Get your filleting wax from Easy Composites in the UK. Price is reasonable with shipping and handling.
Ordered for the next mold.
For filleting wax try Freeman Manufacturing & Supply in Avon Ohio. They have a lot of the stuff you are using. Or a pattern makers supply near you...
Thanks David - very helpful.
Hey there. Maybe I missed it but I don’t understand why the top portion of the door frame is not part of your mould. Can you let us know??? I’m looking to do my doors soon enough and looking for all the tips I can get! Thanks
Because it's really part of the back face of the door. There is a skin, but the door frame (and glass channels etc) are welded into the back panel of the door. It would take 3 more molds per door to make the entire door and it's not worth it and not really as safe as I'd like.
Throttle Stop Garage thanks. That makes sense. I’m loving this series - I’m pretty much doing the same thing with my car but no where near as advanced as your project. These vids are really helpful
Tuk = beanie? Love your videos. I want to do something similar when I can finally pick up a classic car. (I want it to look factory, but perform well.)
Yes - a toque is a beanie. Canadiana at it's best. The first drive will make it all worthwhile.
Not Tuk, "Tuque" :) it's a Canadian thing EH!
Can't you buy the wax used by dentists to take patterns of teeth? I think they are exactly the same.
No idea where I'd get that!
@@ThrottleStopGarage Ebay?
@@ThrottleStopGarage www.ebay.ca/itm/Yellow-Dental-Lab-Sticky-Wax-Sticks-10-pcs-connect-or-repairs-wax-patterns/124040539580?hash=item1ce1646dbc:g:j7kAAOSwTUBeGEHH
@@jakubclash7629 Very cool - thanks.
@@jakubclash7629 I would never have thought of "sticky wax" as a search term.
Instead of using plasticine, use painters caulk. Much quicker and easier!
I've wondered if it works.
@@ThrottleStopGarage it does! I use soft filleting wax or plasticine if I need to fill large voids or add temporary flanges, but sealing perimeters is much easier with caulk 👍🏻
@@garyengland5326 interesting to know
Love the videos as always. I'm wondering for your door to window transition area, would it be helpful to create a two part mold of JUST THAT spot, so you can create a glue-on 90 section from behind + the felt retainer. Maybe it's a piece you can create with part of this mold after its done? If you had wax for filling the crevices, I would wonder if a heat gun/hair dryer plus a tape line (that you remove) wouldn't help make very clean transitions. *Just spit-balling*
This co indicates they have Canadian distributors and filleting wax:
www.compositesone.com/wp-content/uploads/MROLineCard.pdf
You may also find a plastic called Polycaprolactone (pellet or sheet form) useful in certain circumstance where you need to mold something temporary and rigid in one of your forms. It becomes molten/gel like in 150F water and is reusable. It seems to be available on (ebay / Amazon) as well as under some trade names. It's also useful for molding dental appliances or...customizing vampire teeth caps for those Halloween parties.
www.robotroom.com/Prototype-Plastic.html
Cool idea Paul. I've used the plumbers epoxy to make temporary molds with good results.
The wood trim is making the return flange for that part of the mold. I'll then glue it on and job done. I really don't like the idea of vacuum infusion on a part that would return on itself like that. I'm sure it can be done - but not by me.
Круто
Fuck it. Just make a carbon fiber car frame and be done with it :p
Hey, if you really need the Pelikan filleting wax (i use the yellow one for my Carbon Projects) I can send you tons of it via airmail directly from Germany :) just hit me up. This stuff is really cheap around here. Thanks for the awesome content! keep it Up and stay safe! Greets from Germany
Thanks for the offer. I'm going to look for a few options for my next CF project.
No Problem, youre welcome😊 would be an honor to help you out😉
@@swealer I'll let you know if I can't source it easily. I just couldn't get it on Amazon...which is not surprising. Many things available in the USA are not for sale in Canada. Stay safe.