You have no rights to deliver such detailed knowledge, with rehab exercices, in such clean format. Most comprehensive channel for climbers out there, thanks so much.
Thanks so much for this content Hooper! You have no idea how reassuring it is to hear a pop at the gym and fear you'll be done climbing for god knows how long, but are able to instead sit down for your video and get full guidance from diagnosis test to rehab plans. We don't deserve you but we sure do need you!
Hooper! I'm not a climber, I do trades and finally quit my career after 7 years of chronic FDP strain starting from a tree climbing pop. It's been so painful and difficult to work with, and stressful, and has come with TFCC damage and now Dupuytrens in my palm.. I'm 28. After complaining about it to my doc for years and being dismissed, I was able to look at an old MRI I got for the TFCC and identify the problem tendons. After diving into tendon/muscle anatomy I identified the FDP tendons to my ring and little finger being the culprit. I found your video and I can't tell you how helpful it is, and how grateful I am to finally have something tangible to work with, to have some plan and hope for recovery instead of just watching my functionality degrade. I have bands I will use for the sub-max-holds, and dumbells I can use for eccentric finger rolls. Again, can't tell you thanks enough for this video. I'm on the edge of crying right now because of how impactful this injury has been on my life.
@@HoopersBeta It has already!! Ironically, I just got bit by a dog on the same hand and did some damage to another one... so now I can rehab them both at the same time 😁 Thanks again Hooper!!
A few days ago I basically caught all of my body weight on one finger going for a crimpy hold. It was horrendously painful and I'm pretty sure I have a Grade III strain based on this video. Thank you for helping me to understand my injury and how to treat it! Looks like I have a long road of rehab ahead.
Just in time. I was doing some 10 mm 3-finger drags when the structure my hangboard is on suddenly moved and fell about 3 milimeters, resulting in a footslip-like situation. Moral of the story: Make sure your hangboard setup is bulletproof. Back to projecting V2 jugs for a month I guess 💸
This is the most perfectly timed video for me. I don't even rock climb but this helped me narrow down that I have a lumbrical injury. Great explanations and diagnostic tools!
Just found out about your channel last week, great to have good open information about climbing injuries, prevention and training. Hope you’ll make a lot more great content like this!
Brilliant! I understood all of the lingo and biomechanics from my massage diploma. The differential Dianostics test and recovery table helps me miles. I'll still train my flexibility in my hip adductors, and strength training for my upper body antagonists (rhomboids and erector spinae) for good posture going forward. I've just got to accept that I can only give it 80% for the next couple of years. Also, Eccentric contraction; strength/flexibility training seems like a training method I want to learn right.
Damn that is quite precise, you’ve got a subscriber !!! I understand why I’m having all these random strain, discomfort, I’m just weak af from the arms. Time to strengthen those muscles and also STRETCH!! Again excellent video !!
Great Video! At what point in the rehab process could one start climbing again? Only after full healing? Or for example easy open-handed climbing in the retraining phase?
Great question! If the injury is not severe and there is not significant pain during or after your climbing it is OK to do so in the early retraining or even remodeling phase!
OK this channel has amazing content. How does this channel only have 26k subscribers? Ya'l hit that subscribe button. Also come on TH-cam algorithm. Help these guys out.
Oh that is so funny at 5:22. I didn't know fingers did that when held like that lol. It makes intuitive sense, but I've never thought to do that before, or specifically thought about it at all.
Thank you very much for the video! I'm happy that you increased a lot your followes since you dropped this video as you for sure deserve it. I test positive on the FDP on the ring finger and have pain only in the forearm if I test with the pinkie down I feel no disconfort. Can it be a muscle strain also or necessary has to be a tendon? Thank you again 🙏🙏
Thank you so much for your video. Really helpful. Few doubts- 1. Should we do icing or heating during rehab ? 2. Should we do these activities once a day or twice? (Morning n evening both?) Please guide. Thank you in anticipation.
Amazing and comprehensive way Thank you so much. By the way, do you have any such video for fixing Golfer's Elbow? Please guide n help. Thanking you in anticipation
I fell from a climb today, and have immediately noticed mild tingling sensation in left FDP/FDS muscle belly, after a few minutes small bruising have occurred. Will try doing the tests and differential diagnosis tomorrow, a bit scared to poke it so soon after getting injured :)
Yeah it can take a couple of days to get more accurate results if you are in the acute inflammation phase. Sorry to hear of the injury though! Hoping that you recover well!
Would you consider covering forearm splints? Pretty sure I’m experiencing a minor case, and you’ve helped me through the rest of my climbing issues. Really appreciate the channel
Thanks for this video! Just came back from the gym yesterday after an incident that felt like an injury, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose it, and turns out it is an FDP strain :( Anyways, I was trying to look up your rehab charts in the blog post, but the pictures are displayed only very small and I can't read them. Maybe you have time to fix it? Thank you for your great work, already learnt so much!!
Awesome video ! This gives me hope for a rather quick recovery. While doing rehab, is it possible to consider doing upper body training ? Especially pull ups which are bound to exert stress on the fdp…
If it doesn't cause you pain during or lingering pain after then yeah that should be fine. But test out the grip. before you commit to a high amount of weight or repetitions with them :) The bar size and if you use chalk to create friction or have to squeeze harder will also matter.
Hey @markhooks3377 I literally just came home after hearing a pop in my forearm while pulling hard on a 3 finger pocket. Curious how bad your pain/injury was and how the rehab ended up going for you?
@@darrinveloso8918 Hey there! yeah I'd be glad to share my experience. I've been fully recovered for a couple months now with no issues. The first week it hurt to pull on things like the car door, especially if I only used three fingers. after about the first week it only hurt when I pulled on pockets or drags at all. I did regular daily tendon glides/stretches to keep my fingers from feeling too stiff, did very light weight pulls on the finger board (not letting pain get worse than a 2/10), and did finger rolls with a dumbbell. That was enough for me to feel good enough to start climbing carefully again after a couple weeks, but my biggest mistake was not being careful enough doing moves to pockets or any holds where my pinky could slip off. I re-injured my FDP twice, both a week apart where I landed on a hold with just three fingers and had a slight pop again in my forearm. But, even with my two re-injuries I felt like I was back at least 90% after four weeks. 100% after about 6 weeks. I think just light working your fingers and forearm is the most important thing. One tip I got from another climber was to tape your injured finger to the neighboring fingers (in my case my ring finger to my pinky) to reduce the chance of slipping and putting too much isolated force on the injury. All in all, not a bad injury to get at all compared to some of the other common climber issues like pulley ruptures!
Hey hooper, I'm having trouble placing some pain I'm feeling in my forearm. I feel it on the forearm (close to the wrist, palm-side). It's not too bad when climbing except in certain positions and when it kicks in it can be severe. Any ideas?
Amazing video!!! Textbook FDP strain here, mild/moderate it seems. Looks like a couple months of recovery time - but I just love climbing so much it's hard not to giver when I'm in the gym. Tell me what I already know but don't want to admit... should I be taking several weeks off climbing on holds that aren't essentially jugs, right? Any recommendations for working on technique while recovering? Thank you so much for the incredible content.
There's a section of the video (and show notes) called "Part 5: Differential Diagnosis" that will take you through a series of tests. Compare your test results to the chart and that will help you determine if your pain is pulley-related or FDP-related.
Hi folks! Thanks so much for this and all your other content, it's incredibly helpful. I think I've possible picked up and FDS strain rather than FDP - would you advise following similar protocols to your charts here but load at the PIP rather than the DIP to target the FDS? so many acronyms. Thank you!
Very informative, thank you for your work. Can you make episode for PIP injuries? e.g. I'm struggling with pain of PIP joint when pushing or rubbing side of a finger, never had that kind of injury before. No pain when hanging with full weight.
@Michael Duke I made USG of my fingers and reason of this pain is gathered fluid which is moving when doing certain movements cousing pain. Fluid gathering is caused by overtraining, some bad movement could cause shock. This is my case and your can be different, anyway I'm sharing this information which can help you.
@Michael Duke Lower intensity trainings, icing after training and additionaly anti inflammatory pills ( I don't reccomend to use them without consultation tho ) for 10 days. Also I'm doing some finger massage but It is not prescribed treatment
I'm having a hard time figuring out if I am suffering from FDP or Lumbircal. When hanging from the three fingers at once pain is extremely moderate, I almost don't feel it if i do it with my other hand. If I hang (very lightly) in a hangboard, it still hurts with the three fingers, though. I'm more inclined to FDP, because the pain is clearly located mainly in the forearm, but the fact that it is much more dramatic when hanging only from the injured finger makes it more difficult to tell. Thanks a lot for the beautiful content!
I just realised that’s it’s only my mid finger provoking the sharp pain in and below my wrist and that is in the ‘pocket’ position. However, it’s definitely not a pulley as I can half crimp as hard as ever and I don’t feel any pain when pressing hard against it so not sure exactly what that means in this case. 🤔
Thanks for the beautiful video! So informational and funny! Max hangs should have an intensity about 80% and we increase a bit during the time right? I have just done the 2 months of your rehab and i feel super! Now retraining... Another question. During retraining can i start really easy climbing? Thanks!
Glad that you're feeling better! Awesome to hear :) Yes certainly, climbing can be a part of the retraining process :) It's specific, it creates good demands on your body, just remember to pay attention to the intensity and volume going forward.
Great rehab exercises and testing chart 👍 And the acting is top notch 😂 ! I had a question for you. You say that a risk of injury can be due to shortened muscle. But, in recent studies, it has been demonstrated that muscles don't shortened (the nervous receptors become less tolerant toward extension) and that there is no scientific proof between flexibility and risk of injury. So, did you mean shortened muscle in another way ? Hope I'm more or less clear.
Thank you for this video! I’m not experiencing pain in my fingers but in my mid forearm, almost exclusively in a drag position involving my middle finger. Having googled hand/ forearm anatomy, I can only concluded that it’s the FDP. Your diagnosis charts don’t fully match my symptoms though. Any ideas? (Thanks for another quality video!)
Pretty sure I have a similar injury but from the diagnosis section, I think it's probably more likely an FDS injury instead of an FDP - would the prevention and rehab exercises be similar in that case or should some other exercises be considered?
I can't find show notes for these charts on your website... do you have links? please advise. great video BTW. excellent -- very informative and easy to follow
Thank you for this video! I recently felt a pop in my forearm a few days ago from climbing. I did the diagnostic tests in your video and it seems that I only feel mild-moderate pain (depending on how much pressure/weight put) in my forearm when I put weight on my ring finger. I also felt some of this pain with tests 2 and 4, but none with the other tests. Would this be considered a lumbrical injury if the pain is mostly felt in my forearm? Or are lumbrical injuries mostly felt in the hand? Thank you again!
How are all of you? A few days since my injury. It mainly hurts when I apply pressure with my finger when pinky is bent. I feel the pain in my forearm. Talk to me guys!
Not a climber, but had to carry around a gas generator all day at work and use it to power a concrete hammer-drill to put two foot holes into a foundation wall for rebar. I feel pain in my forearm and wobbling in my grip while even attempting to lift a bottle of beer lol. Gotta use two hand to lift a 5lb frying pan.
@@HoopersBeta It was! Your info helped me identify which spots in the forearm to massage and treat specifically as opposed to treating the entire forearm. Thank you
Great video and good tips! It's funny though, I'm not even a climber or active athlete, yet I have strained both of my middle fingers FDP. Hand surgeon suspected slight FDP tear or A5-A4 pulley injury on both middle fingers. The problem is that it's been 8 months and these finger are still troublesome. I've done some grip training and stuff, but still the pain and crepitus comes and goes. Should I just keep exercising the fingers with progressive load or get an MRI or UA? Really frustrated to have these injuries that are not even related to sports, just being clumsy and stupid hah.
New to this channel, and I have got to say: This is such a treasure trove of knowledge pertaining to tendons and climbing/gripping!! Oustanding video! I've seen the sub-max hold protocol in many other videos, and it has been working for me personally. 1 question: what about medial epicondylitis (golfer's elbow) that gets aggravated when climbing? It flares up after climbing, and at home when testing, I feel it the most when I fully extend my elbow and fully pronate my wrists. I've done band restriction/tendon flossing which helps, and have just started training my extensor muscles (antagonists for balance) but it never fully goes away. Any thoughts??
Also, immediately subscribed after this video. There is a bunch of wonderful climbing content on youtube, but (in any fitness discipline on TH-cam) nowhere near enough on injury prevention and rehab. Cannot reccomend this video enough. Keep up the great content, and thanks for caring about your viewers and fellow climbers!
Thanks for the kind words and for subbing! Appreciate subscribers such as yourself supporting the channel and the work we do! As for the elbow, hard to pinpoint anything from that. Could also be neural involvement / neural compression.
Always remember its okay to go to the doctor if you hurt yourself. Its ok to go to an ortho if your injury is truly debilitating. Taking a break from climbing can be the very thing that helps you send that next project. Take care of your body its the only one you have.
Hi, thabks so much for this, i think this is the injury i have. Can you or anyone tell me where you get that fingerboard thing on the elastic (time 10.09) where you are talking about sub max holds? I want to find o e woth elastic but cant see one anywhere! Thanks a lot! 😊
@HoopersBeta I'm having pain directly in the middle of my forearm during overhand chin-ups and movements like military and bench press. I didn't experience pain in any of your tests (except putting pressure directly on forearm), but I still feel like it's FDP, given you diagram. Am I off base? No pain during gripping things, it's the upward movement of an overhand chin-up.
If no pain with the tests it could just be because the tests you're doing don't put the same amount of force on the tissue as the movements you described. OR, it could be something else, such as nerve involvement. Check out our other videos on nerve as well and see if that starts to fit better for ya.
Hey, Im having a hard time diagnosing what my injury is. I was climbing on a small crimp (open hand) and was only able to get my middle two fingers on the crimp with half of my first finger on as well. I did not hear or feel any pops but felt immediate pain about two inches below my wrist into my forearm. While doing the tests, I feel pain while testing my ring finger during the AROM and resisted flexion of the DIP only while curling my pinky. If my pinky is straight while doing tests I feel no pain or discomfort whatsoever.
Great video. Thank you. So no climbing for minimum 2 months? I’ve pain mostly in mid section of FDP muscle. Pain illicited on isolated flexion of middle finger D.I.P joint. One thing I did not ascertain from video is how long to rest prior to beginning stretching and loading rehab? 1-2 weeks? Thank you again. .
I have pain on the pinky-side of my palm when I flex my hand down toward 90 degrees and then rotate the wrist outward (with pinky and ring finger spread out). No pain with any of the tests you outlined here or any of the tests in your TFCC video. I can't find any info explaining what kind of injury this might be. Any thoughts?
Ex Athlete/coach here I was breaking a fight up between 2 of my dogs and got bit through the top of my hand and out my palm just behind the top of my middle finger knuckle by one tooth. I don’t have insurance so I’m winging it. I have a very high pain threshold but I was literally kicking my leg like crazy in the utility room because I didn’t want to scare my 2 young girls 7-9 but the pain was very intense. It’s been 8 days today and the wound is finally kinda healed still a droplet of blood on the band aid I can bend fingers but can’t close my fist completely and if I touch the spot of the wound it’s still pretty sensitive. My fingers feel kinda stiff and dry also there’s some odd sensations but not too often. I’m worried it could be a flexor tendon but hoping it’s internal inflammation or something like that ANY insight would be so appreciated. I can’t afford to go to the hospital I recently lost my insurance. I’m worried I could lose range of motion or in my hand or worse. I took some antibiotics from my nurse sister it was Doxycycline bc she didn’t have Amox culvate. Any advice,any info,any words of encouragement would be great. I hope everyone going through these similar problems heals up well. *Is it very odd for a deep puncture wound dog bite like this to still be sore and as I described even after a week. I’m a slow healer in general but I just thought I’d be further a long after 7.5 days. If there’s a email I could send a photo to I’d truly appreciate it.
With regards to the severity tests, specifically Test 4: Resisted DIP Flexion, can the location of discomfort/pain be at the musculotendinous junction? I meet all criteria for a grade 1 strain, however, my location of discomfort/pain is at the muscle/tendon junction.
For the second time on different hands I injured my FDP/A2 (most likely FDP according to the tests) by doing 3 finger crimps and fully down little finger, my test was lumbrical injury and all the other tests were grade 1 and some grade 2 at max. Is that severe or can I progressively come back to climbing after the rehab?
I feel a sharp/burning pain in my triceps and biceps including my forearm whenever I climb up rope. The pain intensified whenever I keep using my arm and it’s not only one arm but it’s both. It’s hard for me to do my job sometimes when I need to carry or move heavy equipment. Do you have any advice that you could share, would help a lot.
I think that I have median interosseous nerve syndrome because I am unable to make the okay 👌 sign. I have very little, if any, flexion in the distal phalanges of my thumb and index finger. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Is it normal that the PIP is also swollen, inflammed and painful with this injury? It happened during climbing, I heard a pop in chisel position. Since then, the pain has been around A1, A2, but the rigfinger is also painful, and I can't make a fist. Thank you!
Hello Hooper's. I had pain in this area for about almost a month, and the pain in the muscle is also making my fingers hurt to a small extent due to the strings (I'm pretty sure). And the thing is, I don't climb and do activities this often. But I can tell you that I use monkey bars and sometimes strain my muscle, so I was curious if that is the reason. I was also just wondering if this pain will go away and it's sort of making me a bit anxious. I would love it if you can give me some advice to heal the pain as quick as possible. Thanks! Also I think I have a grade III strain.
More than 24hrs after my last climbing session and after yoga that day I noticed swelling in my index finger MCP. Feels weird and restricted when closing my fist and it's tender when pressing the joint. I have been dealing with a bad shoulder for a while due to weak external rotator cuffs on the same side. Any ideas of what I have got and how to treat it best? Dox said it's inflammation of tendon sheath, but not sure.
Have you or anyone here developed persistent swelling and some tingling in their thumbtips and fingertips from high repetition dumbbells, kettlebells or barbell exercises? What did you do to recover from the problem?
Okay okay which is better though: holding holds or gripping grips?
Slapping them slopers!
yes
Gripping dem grips!
Gripping holds and holding grips. ✊🏻😂
Slamming jams!
You have no rights to deliver such detailed knowledge, with rehab exercices, in such clean format. Most comprehensive channel for climbers out there, thanks so much.
Apologies! ;)
Thanks for the support!
Thanks so much for this content Hooper! You have no idea how reassuring it is to hear a pop at the gym and fear you'll be done climbing for god knows how long, but are able to instead sit down for your video and get full guidance from diagnosis test to rehab plans. We don't deserve you but we sure do need you!
THIS was the best breakdown I’ve found to date! I’m an aggressive enduro mountain biker dealing with this issue. This video 100% applies. Thank you!
Stoked that you found this to be helpful!
Hooper! I'm not a climber, I do trades and finally quit my career after 7 years of chronic FDP strain starting from a tree climbing pop. It's been so painful and difficult to work with, and stressful, and has come with TFCC damage and now Dupuytrens in my palm.. I'm 28.
After complaining about it to my doc for years and being dismissed, I was able to look at an old MRI I got for the TFCC and identify the problem tendons. After diving into tendon/muscle anatomy I identified the FDP tendons to my ring and little finger being the culprit. I found your video and I can't tell you how helpful it is, and how grateful I am to finally have something tangible to work with, to have some plan and hope for recovery instead of just watching my functionality degrade. I have bands I will use for the sub-max-holds, and dumbells I can use for eccentric finger rolls.
Again, can't tell you thanks enough for this video. I'm on the edge of crying right now because of how impactful this injury has been on my life.
So sorry to hear of your injury! But, really hope this helps you in your journey to regain some strength and functionality!
@@HoopersBeta It has already!! Ironically, I just got bit by a dog on the same hand and did some damage to another one... so now I can rehab them both at the same time 😁 Thanks again Hooper!!
A few days ago I basically caught all of my body weight on one finger going for a crimpy hold. It was horrendously painful and I'm pretty sure I have a Grade III strain based on this video. Thank you for helping me to understand my injury and how to treat it! Looks like I have a long road of rehab ahead.
Glad the video helped! Hope your recovery is speedy :)
Update?
@@julienleveaux3113 nah Fr we need a update
Update
How’s the finger
What a phenomenal episode. So funny and informative!
What a gem! Thank you very much!
I don't climb, I train jiu-jitsu. This information has been beyond incredibly helpful!!! 🤙
Awesome, glad it helped!
I wanted a video like this for 7 years now
The acting is so amazing at the beginning of the video, I had to follow but also thanks for the great advices and the quality of the video
Just in time. I was doing some 10 mm 3-finger drags when the structure my hangboard is on suddenly moved and fell about 3 milimeters, resulting in a footslip-like situation. Moral of the story: Make sure your hangboard setup is bulletproof. Back to projecting V2 jugs for a month I guess 💸
This is the most perfectly timed video for me. I don't even rock climb but this helped me narrow down that I have a lumbrical injury. Great explanations and diagnostic tools!
gamer ?
Ok definitely injured my FDP and FDS today by blowing off a two finger pocket. Thanks for the video! It helped me narrow down what feels injured
Watching you punch your forearms was very relatable! I wish I could say I do it ironically!
My injury is from my job, not climbing, but this is so comprehensive, I hope it will be useful :)
We hope so as well!
So much value in this video it's insane that we get to watch it for free! TYSM!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words.
Just found out about your channel last week, great to have good open information about climbing injuries, prevention and training. Hope you’ll make a lot more great content like this!
Thanks! We have a virtually endless list of videos waiting to be made so there certainly won't be an end to the content!
Brilliant! I understood all of the lingo and biomechanics from my massage diploma. The differential Dianostics test and recovery table helps me miles.
I'll still train my flexibility in my hip adductors, and strength training for my upper body antagonists (rhomboids and erector spinae) for good posture going forward. I've just got to accept that I can only give it 80% for the next couple of years.
Also, Eccentric contraction; strength/flexibility training seems like a training method I want to learn right.
Thank you so much. This helps me so much I had no idea what it was before your video !
Damn that is quite precise, you’ve got a subscriber !!! I understand why I’m having all these random strain, discomfort, I’m just weak af from the arms. Time to strengthen those muscles and also STRETCH!! Again excellent video !!
Yay! Glad to be of service
The voice shift from "moderate to HEAVY PRESSURE" really gets me
Great Video! At what point in the rehab process could one start climbing again? Only after full healing? Or for example easy open-handed climbing in the retraining phase?
Great question! If the injury is not severe and there is not significant pain during or after your climbing it is OK to do so in the early retraining or even remodeling phase!
Crazy how every time I have an injury I run Hoopers Beta Hand Pain and in 3 minutes you broke down every single thing I did wrong
Amazing content. Well structured and detailed!
Thank you so much for the quality content!
OK this channel has amazing content. How does this channel only have 26k subscribers? Ya'l hit that subscribe button. Also come on TH-cam algorithm. Help these guys out.
Injured climbers of the world, unite!
Oh that is so funny at 5:22. I didn't know fingers did that when held like that lol. It makes intuitive sense, but I've never thought to do that before, or specifically thought about it at all.
Thank you very much for the video! I'm happy that you increased a lot your followes since you dropped this video as you for sure deserve it. I test positive on the FDP on the ring finger and have pain only in the forearm if I test with the pinkie down I feel no disconfort. Can it be a muscle strain also or necessary has to be a tendon? Thank you again 🙏🙏
Thanks a lot for this info, Doc! Looks like I have a lumbrical tear/strain. I appreciate your rehab advice and now subbed :)
Injuries footages were hilarious 😁
Thank you so much for your video.
Really helpful.
Few doubts-
1. Should we do icing or heating during rehab ?
2. Should we do these activities once a day or twice? (Morning n evening both?)
Please guide.
Thank you in anticipation.
Any advice if my injury is more likely FDS from the DDx's?
+ this video is incredibly detailed and organised
Did you find informaton more for FDS? I have the same injury
Amazing and comprehensive way
Thank you so much.
By the way, do you have any such video for fixing Golfer's Elbow?
Please guide n help.
Thanking you in anticipation
I fell from a climb today, and have immediately noticed mild tingling sensation in left FDP/FDS muscle belly, after a few minutes small bruising have occurred.
Will try doing the tests and differential diagnosis tomorrow, a bit scared to poke it so soon after getting injured :)
Yeah it can take a couple of days to get more accurate results if you are in the acute inflammation phase. Sorry to hear of the injury though! Hoping that you recover well!
Would you consider covering forearm splints? Pretty sure I’m experiencing a minor case, and you’ve helped me through the rest of my climbing issues. Really appreciate the channel
This is awesome!!! So detailed
I really tried not to laugh... but the acting parts are just so good 🤣. Big 👍for all the informations and explanations you put in this video!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it (and hopefully learned!)
fantastic content!
Thank you!
Thanks for this video! Just came back from the gym yesterday after an incident that felt like an injury, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose it, and turns out it is an FDP strain :(
Anyways, I was trying to look up your rehab charts in the blog post, but the pictures are displayed only very small and I can't read them. Maybe you have time to fix it? Thank you for your great work, already learnt so much!!
how’d it happen ?
Awesome video ! This gives me hope for a rather quick recovery. While doing rehab, is it possible to consider doing upper body training ? Especially pull ups which are bound to exert stress on the fdp…
If it doesn't cause you pain during or lingering pain after then yeah that should be fine. But test out the grip. before you commit to a high amount of weight or repetitions with them :) The bar size and if you use chalk to create friction or have to squeeze harder will also matter.
This couldn’t have come out at a better time, I literarily just felt some pops in my forearm while climbing a pocket hold and now it hurts a lot.
Oh dang! Sorry to hear that. If the injury was suffered while in a pocket I would also recommend checking out our video on the lumbricals!
@@HoopersBeta thanks so much! ill definitely check it out!
Hey @markhooks3377 I literally just came home after hearing a pop in my forearm while pulling hard on a 3 finger pocket. Curious how bad your pain/injury was and how the rehab ended up going for you?
@@mattsmitt00i was wondering if you had any updates on your recovery the same thing happened to me last night lol
@@darrinveloso8918 Hey there! yeah I'd be glad to share my experience. I've been fully recovered for a couple months now with no issues. The first week it hurt to pull on things like the car door, especially if I only used three fingers. after about the first week it only hurt when I pulled on pockets or drags at all.
I did regular daily tendon glides/stretches to keep my fingers from feeling too stiff, did very light weight pulls on the finger board (not letting pain get worse than a 2/10), and did finger rolls with a dumbbell. That was enough for me to feel good enough to start climbing carefully again after a couple weeks, but my biggest mistake was not being careful enough doing moves to pockets or any holds where my pinky could slip off. I re-injured my FDP twice, both a week apart where I landed on a hold with just three fingers and had a slight pop again in my forearm.
But, even with my two re-injuries I felt like I was back at least 90% after four weeks. 100% after about 6 weeks. I think just light working your fingers and forearm is the most important thing.
One tip I got from another climber was to tape your injured finger to the neighboring fingers (in my case my ring finger to my pinky) to reduce the chance of slipping and putting too much isolated force on the injury.
All in all, not a bad injury to get at all compared to some of the other common climber issues like pulley ruptures!
the facial expressions when you act out being in pain is so funny
damn, almost thought this was what i had but i failed all of the tests.. my forearm injury remains a mystery..
Check out our nerve videos as well! And if it's still a mystery. Book a consult and I'm sure we can figure it out! :)
Hey hooper, I'm having trouble placing some pain I'm feeling in my forearm. I feel it on the forearm (close to the wrist, palm-side). It's not too bad when climbing except in certain positions and when it kicks in it can be severe. Any ideas?
Amazing video!!! Textbook FDP strain here, mild/moderate it seems. Looks like a couple months of recovery time - but I just love climbing so much it's hard not to giver when I'm in the gym. Tell me what I already know but don't want to admit... should I be taking several weeks off climbing on holds that aren't essentially jugs, right? Any recommendations for working on technique while recovering? Thank you so much for the incredible content.
Thanks! Super informative. How do you tell the difference between a pulley strain and an FDP strain?
There's a section of the video (and show notes) called "Part 5: Differential Diagnosis" that will take you through a series of tests. Compare your test results to the chart and that will help you determine if your pain is pulley-related or FDP-related.
@@HoopersBeta Yep....I'm an idiot. I completely missed the column that said pulley injuries. Thanks!
Hi folks! Thanks so much for this and all your other content, it's incredibly helpful. I think I've possible picked up and FDS strain rather than FDP - would you advise following similar protocols to your charts here but load at the PIP rather than the DIP to target the FDS? so many acronyms. Thank you!
Very informative, thank you for your work. Can you make episode for PIP injuries? e.g. I'm struggling with pain of PIP joint when pushing or rubbing side of a finger, never had that kind of injury before. No pain when hanging with full weight.
@Michael Duke I made USG of my fingers and reason of this pain is gathered fluid which is moving when doing certain movements cousing pain. Fluid gathering is caused by overtraining, some bad movement could cause shock. This is my case and your can be different, anyway I'm sharing this information which can help you.
@Michael Duke Lower intensity trainings, icing after training and additionaly anti inflammatory pills ( I don't reccomend to use them without consultation tho ) for 10 days. Also I'm doing some finger massage but It is not prescribed treatment
As amazing as usual!
I'm having a hard time figuring out if I am suffering from FDP or Lumbircal. When hanging from the three fingers at once pain is extremely moderate, I almost don't feel it if i do it with my other hand. If I hang (very lightly) in a hangboard, it still hurts with the three fingers, though. I'm more inclined to FDP, because the pain is clearly located mainly in the forearm, but the fact that it is much more dramatic when hanging only from the injured finger makes it more difficult to tell. Thanks a lot for the beautiful content!
Thank you! That was awesome. 👍🏻
Great video, thank you!
Damn that was everything. Thank you
Our pleasure!
Is there any possibility you can make the same video about a FDS injury? :))
Yeah! It's been on our list for a bit now it just keeps getting pushed back by other video ideas, sorry! We'll bump it back up on the list :)
@@HoopersBeta :)
Great vid! Thanks so much! 💪🏼👌🙏
I just realised that’s it’s only my mid finger provoking the sharp pain in and below my wrist and that is in the ‘pocket’ position. However, it’s definitely not a pulley as I can half crimp as hard as ever and I don’t feel any pain when pressing hard against it so not sure exactly what that means in this case. 🤔
Thanks for the beautiful video! So informational and funny! Max hangs should have an intensity about 80% and we increase a bit during the time right? I have just done the 2 months of your rehab and i feel super! Now retraining... Another question. During retraining can i start really easy climbing? Thanks!
Glad that you're feeling better! Awesome to hear :)
Yes certainly, climbing can be a part of the retraining process :) It's specific, it creates good demands on your body, just remember to pay attention to the intensity and volume going forward.
Can y’all make a super sweet video on rehabbing an FDS strain too? Pretty sure I just got one of those :/
Yes, although it might take a while :( we've got several other videos in the works right now
Can I also perform an easy 4 finger half crimp hang board routine on top of rehab?
Great video
Thank you!
Great rehab exercises and testing chart 👍 And the acting is top notch 😂 !
I had a question for you. You say that a risk of injury can be due to shortened muscle. But, in recent studies, it has been demonstrated that muscles don't shortened (the nervous receptors become less tolerant toward extension) and that there is no scientific proof between flexibility and risk of injury. So, did you mean shortened muscle in another way ? Hope I'm more or less clear.
Thank you for this video! I’m not experiencing pain in my fingers but in my mid forearm, almost exclusively in a drag position involving my middle finger. Having googled hand/ forearm anatomy, I can only concluded that it’s the FDP. Your diagnosis charts don’t fully match my symptoms though. Any ideas? (Thanks for another quality video!)
Pretty sure I have a similar injury but from the diagnosis section, I think it's probably more likely an FDS injury instead of an FDP - would the prevention and rehab exercises be similar in that case or should some other exercises be considered?
Did you find informaton more for FDS? I have the same injury
I can't find show notes for these charts on your website... do you have links? please advise. great video BTW. excellent -- very informative and easy to follow
Thank you Hooper
Welcome!
Nice, thanks!
Thank you so much Doc
Most welcome!
Thank you for this video! I recently felt a pop in my forearm a few days ago from climbing. I did the diagnostic tests in your video and it seems that I only feel mild-moderate pain (depending on how much pressure/weight put) in my forearm when I put weight on my ring finger. I also felt some of this pain with tests 2 and 4, but none with the other tests. Would this be considered a lumbrical injury if the pain is mostly felt in my forearm? Or are lumbrical injuries mostly felt in the hand? Thank you again!
just happened to me tonigh :( so sad
Did you get any more information on this? I just got injured today and I have the same results and questions you do.
i have exactly the same issue and was wondering the same. did you find anything out?
How are all of you? A few days since my injury. It mainly hurts when I apply pressure with my finger when pinky is bent. I feel the pain in my forearm.
Talk to me guys!
My forearm also did a lil pop which heavily concerned me. Kinda funny how my ring finger is also the affected finger
Thank you 🙌
Do you have any recommended resources if the differential diagnosis points towards a FDS strain rather than FDP?
Not a climber, but had to carry around a gas generator all day at work and use it to power a concrete hammer-drill to put two foot holes into a foundation wall for rebar.
I feel pain in my forearm and wobbling in my grip while even attempting to lift a bottle of beer lol. Gotta use two hand to lift a 5lb frying pan.
Oh dang sorry to hear that! Hopefully some information from our vids will help in your recovery.
@@HoopersBeta
It was! Your info helped me identify which spots in the forearm to massage and treat specifically as opposed to treating the entire forearm. Thank you
Great video and good tips! It's funny though, I'm not even a climber or active athlete, yet I have strained both of my middle fingers FDP. Hand surgeon suspected slight FDP tear or A5-A4 pulley injury on both middle fingers. The problem is that it's been 8 months and these finger are still troublesome. I've done some grip training and stuff, but still the pain and crepitus comes and goes. Should I just keep exercising the fingers with progressive load or get an MRI or UA? Really frustrated to have these injuries that are not even related to sports, just being clumsy and stupid hah.
New to this channel, and I have got to say: This is such a treasure trove of knowledge pertaining to tendons and climbing/gripping!! Oustanding video! I've seen the sub-max hold protocol in many other videos, and it has been working for me personally.
1 question: what about medial epicondylitis (golfer's elbow) that gets aggravated when climbing? It flares up after climbing, and at home when testing, I feel it the most when I fully extend my elbow and fully pronate my wrists. I've done band restriction/tendon flossing which helps, and have just started training my extensor muscles (antagonists for balance) but it never fully goes away. Any thoughts??
Also, immediately subscribed after this video. There is a bunch of wonderful climbing content on youtube, but (in any fitness discipline on TH-cam) nowhere near enough on injury prevention and rehab. Cannot reccomend this video enough. Keep up the great content, and thanks for caring about your viewers and fellow climbers!
Thanks for the kind words and for subbing! Appreciate subscribers such as yourself supporting the channel and the work we do!
As for the elbow, hard to pinpoint anything from that. Could also be neural involvement / neural compression.
Always remember its okay to go to the doctor if you hurt yourself. Its ok to go to an ortho if your injury is truly debilitating. Taking a break from climbing can be the very thing that helps you send that next project. Take care of your body its the only one you have.
do you have a video specific for the FDS? how would the exercises change?
Hi, thabks so much for this, i think this is the injury i have. Can you or anyone tell me where you get that fingerboard thing on the elastic (time 10.09) where you are talking about sub max holds? I want to find o e woth elastic but cant see one anywhere! Thanks a lot! 😊
Thank you so much 😂
If only I found this video earlier in my rehab...
@HoopersBeta I'm having pain directly in the middle of my forearm during overhand chin-ups and movements like military and bench press. I didn't experience pain in any of your tests (except putting pressure directly on forearm), but I still feel like it's FDP, given you diagram. Am I off base? No pain during gripping things, it's the upward movement of an overhand chin-up.
If no pain with the tests it could just be because the tests you're doing don't put the same amount of force on the tissue as the movements you described. OR, it could be something else, such as nerve involvement. Check out our other videos on nerve as well and see if that starts to fit better for ya.
Aw man, this is interesting but, my FDS is injured. Not my FDP. The injury comparison table was interesting though. Do one for FDS too!
Ahh bummer! It's on the list! :)
@@HoopersBeta Do these exercises apply for mild FDS?
I have exactly the same question - how much rehab exercises shown here apply in case of FDS injury?
@@HoopersBeta Did you ever make a video on the FDS? :)
Not a climber but strained my forearm dunking in basketball
Hey, Im having a hard time diagnosing what my injury is. I was climbing on a small crimp (open hand) and was only able to get my middle two fingers on the crimp with half of my first finger on as well. I did not hear or feel any pops but felt immediate pain about two inches below my wrist into my forearm. While doing the tests, I feel pain while testing my ring finger during the AROM and resisted flexion of the DIP only while curling my pinky. If my pinky is straight while doing tests I feel no pain or discomfort whatsoever.
Great video. Thank you. So no climbing for minimum 2 months?
I’ve pain mostly in mid section of FDP muscle. Pain illicited on isolated flexion of middle finger D.I.P joint.
One thing I did not ascertain from video is how long to rest prior to beginning stretching and loading rehab? 1-2 weeks?
Thank you again.
.
How did it go for you? Did yo wait 2 months to climb again?
I have pain on the pinky-side of my palm when I flex my hand down toward 90 degrees and then rotate the wrist outward (with pinky and ring finger spread out). No pain with any of the tests you outlined here or any of the tests in your TFCC video. I can't find any info explaining what kind of injury this might be. Any thoughts?
Ex Athlete/coach here I was breaking a fight up between 2 of my dogs and got bit through the top of my hand and out my palm just behind the top of my middle finger knuckle by one tooth. I don’t have insurance so I’m winging it. I have a very high pain threshold but I was literally kicking my leg like crazy in the utility room because I didn’t want to scare my 2 young girls 7-9 but the pain was very intense. It’s been 8 days today and the wound is finally kinda healed still a droplet of blood on the band aid I can bend fingers but can’t close my fist completely and if I touch the spot of the wound it’s still pretty sensitive. My fingers feel kinda stiff and dry also there’s some odd sensations but not too often. I’m worried it could be a flexor tendon but hoping it’s internal inflammation or something like that ANY insight would be so appreciated. I can’t afford to go to the hospital I recently lost my insurance. I’m worried I could lose range of motion or in my hand or worse. I took some antibiotics from my nurse sister it was Doxycycline bc she didn’t have Amox culvate. Any advice,any info,any words of encouragement would be great. I hope everyone going through these similar problems heals up well.
*Is it very odd for a deep puncture wound dog bite like this to still be sore and as I described even after a week. I’m a slow healer in general but I just thought I’d be further a long after 7.5 days. If there’s a email I could send a photo to I’d truly appreciate it.
❤ thanx a lot
Welcome!
Great episode! 👏👏
My very first climbing session I tried multiple times to jump onto a hold (V5) and have an FDP injury in both forearms ;[
Sorry to hear that! Sounds like you were having a lot of fun (I hope) on your first session.
With regards to the severity tests, specifically Test 4: Resisted DIP Flexion, can the location of discomfort/pain be at the musculotendinous junction? I meet all criteria for a grade 1 strain, however, my location of discomfort/pain is at the muscle/tendon junction.
Yes, that's certainly possible!
For the second time on different hands I injured my FDP/A2 (most likely FDP according to the tests) by doing 3 finger crimps and fully down little finger, my test was lumbrical injury and all the other tests were grade 1 and some grade 2 at max. Is that severe or can I progressively come back to climbing after the rehab?
I feel a sharp/burning pain in my triceps and biceps including my forearm whenever I climb up rope. The pain intensified whenever I keep using my arm and it’s not only one arm but it’s both. It’s hard for me to do my job sometimes when I need to carry or move heavy equipment. Do you have any advice that you could share, would help a lot.
I think that I have median interosseous nerve syndrome because I am unable to make the okay 👌 sign. I have very little, if any, flexion in the distal phalanges of my thumb and index finger. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have forearm pain when I do bench pressing. I can even do the bar by itself without feeling pain.
Oh shoot that's no fun! I hope you recover well!
Is it normal that the PIP is also swollen, inflammed and painful with this injury?
It happened during climbing, I heard a pop in chisel position. Since then, the pain has been around A1, A2, but the rigfinger is also painful, and I can't make a fist.
Thank you!
Could a shortened FDP also cause a faster occurence of pump because of the tighter muscle??
Hello Hooper's. I had pain in this area for about almost a month, and the pain in the muscle is also making my fingers hurt to a small extent due to the strings (I'm pretty sure). And the thing is, I don't climb and do activities this often. But I can tell you that I use monkey bars and sometimes strain my muscle, so I was curious if that is the reason. I was also just wondering if this pain will go away and it's sort of making me a bit anxious. I would love it if you can give me some advice to heal the pain as quick as possible. Thanks! Also I think I have a grade III strain.
More than 24hrs after my last climbing session and after yoga that day I noticed swelling in my index finger MCP. Feels weird and restricted when closing my fist and it's tender when pressing the joint. I have been dealing with a bad shoulder for a while due to weak external rotator cuffs on the same side. Any ideas of what I have got and how to treat it best? Dox said it's inflammation of tendon sheath, but not sure.
My training partner witch is my dad may have fully torn his pulley today.
Oof! Sorry to hear that :/
Have you or anyone here developed persistent swelling and some tingling in their thumbtips and fingertips from high repetition dumbbells, kettlebells or barbell exercises?
What did you do to recover from the problem?
all these finger videos but nothing on thumb. i have an old injury from trying to catch myself during a biking fall, any advice?
I think I'm prone to FDS injuries, but cant find accessible reading on it. Does anyone have any pointers? Thanks 🙇🏻