I just recently determined that the same power valve is on my 3-barrel Keihin carburetor on my 1982 Prelude and that the pn 16046-PN3-005 might also be a replacement. There is only one on it. I had purchased a Walker carb rebuild kit to get the power valve diaphragm and the replacement leaked! I then got another from Airtex and it seemed to work. I called Walker and they said they'd send a replacement power valve. We'll have to see.
I have an 86 prelude that won’t idle without the gas peddle and starts around 1.7-2k rpms. I also felt the right side of the carb wasn’t sucking in air as much
Sounds like the idle curcuit is not working - simplest explanation would be it's clogged. So take it apart and clean, especially all jets and tiny passages. Cleaning jets can be tricky, because sometimes there's hard crust drom fuel that's difficult to scrape off. I do it with a copper wire, but if you can get you hands on an ultrasonic cleaner, that's absolutely ideal.
Do you have any good video recommendations on how to remove a carb and will I have to pull my motor to do so or will I just be at a weird angle getting those bolts
@@bigfella9058 the only tricky part is you have to get under the car and remove a bottom support bracket and unplug a few connectors down there. Rest is pretty straightforward. Be prepared all the phillips screws will be really stuck - if you can get an impact screwdriver, that will be a big help. If not, break the screws loose with vise grips.
Np, glad it helped! I think the valves enrich the mixture in states of low vacuum (heavy load with throttle open). Kind of like acceleration pump on motorcycles, but different.
Hi Sidney, thank you for this- my 85 prelude is getting too little fuel and therefore the mixture is bad and not passing the emissions test. I suspect one carb is not giving enough fuel since the engine does not run that smooth. Where should I start?
Hello, I would probably start from the easiest - (look for vacuum leaks, check integrity of diaphragm actuators), to the hardest (take apart the carbs and clean inside, especially the jets). It's a bit of a pain, Honda didn't make them very accessible. Good luck!
hi, is there any possible way to contact you personally? i have so many questions. have own a cv dual carb, read thru the workshop manual for diagnostics and some forum but she's still not starting. any workshops here dont do it anymore or just dont want to touch honda cv dual carb. i would be very glad to hear it from you back :').
Feel free to message me here, I read this all the time. Generally with these problems you want to go and rule out things. The engine needs a correct fuel mixture, compression, timing and spark. Check all of these. For ruling out carburetors, a starting spray is a good and straigtforward tool. If it starts with the spray, you know you have to look into the carbs.
Hey mate, I am having issues with a D15 dual carb setup. I can only get it to start when holding the throttle flat or when pumping it. When it does run it idles at around 2k rpm and has terrible throttle response until it dies out. I have just replaced the engine and believe I have messed up a vaccum line somewhere when reinstalling the intake manifold. I am happy to pay you for your time if I can get your advice on fixing it.
Hello, my rate is 60 minutes/hour, hope you can afford that! It does sound like there is something major wrong, and if it started happening after engine replacement, I'd guess it's some damage or something incorrectly installed. I'm guessing it's about the idle circuit. As usual, I would check things from easiest to hardest. - trace all hoses and check if they are attached to correct points. If you're lucky, there should be a diagram on a label underside your bonnet. - also check fuel hoses (from the pump, return line and breather - they're easy to mix up) - check if the choke and throttle linkages operate smoothly, check if the choke plate is how you'd expect (tiny bit open when cold, fully open when hot - if not, you can ziptie the linkage open to rule it out) - take off top hats of the carbs and check if the slides are free to move - check electrical connections of carious solenoids around the carbs - check if various vacuum diaphragm actuators hold vacuum by sucking on their top hoses - drain the carburators from the bottom (can loosen the powervalve caps) - you can try plugging up various vacuum hoses to see if anythign changes - take off the carbs, disassembel and clean inside. Good luck, hope you'll get to the bottom of it.
This is the closest I’ve found to my problem! Hi! I have a 1987 Honda accord Lx with stock Keihin carb. It does the surging idle thing after about thirty seconds from startup, unless I give it gas, if I let off gas, it surges then stalls…. Already changed fuel pump and filter, battery and distributor are new as well. Plugs haven’t been used much before problem occurred and wires are new….. Would you happen to know if the fix you recommended will work for my carb? Thanks!
Hmm, hard to say. I'd check the ignition, check wires and connectors for oxidation or damage.. Check vacuum advance on the dizzy. Check cooling system, is it bled?
Hey, I’ve got an issue with a 1991 Honda Civic d15b4, the engine runs really rough, rich and feels like it’s flooding. The engine is also flooding whenever I leave it overnight and blows a lot of smoke. There is also fuel getting into the oil. Any ideas as to what might be causing this?
I don't have actual experience with this, but I would guess it's the carby float valve not sealing. Basically take apart the carbies entirely and clean up. Better get an impact screwdriver, all of these philips screws will be stuck as heck. GL
@@sidney9534 thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate it. Also, do u know any guides that exist out on the internet that could give me an idea as to how I can go about getting the carburettors out of the engine bay? There isn’t many service manuals out there on my car in particular that show me how to do it (probably just me not understanding it properly lol)
@@lachlananderson6470 happy to help. I know of this service manual, may be some help: media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/ConcertoManual/sect2.html
Could be lots of things. I suggest starting from simplest and cheapest checks to the hardest. Air filter ok? Hoses all ok and connected? Choke operating correctly? Any vacuum leaks? Flanges ok? Any wires or plugs damaged? Carbs and jets inside clean? Diaphragms not cracked?
Don't have a picture handy, but the screws should be under white plastic caps that are angled up about 45deg. Mind you this is only the idle circuit adjustment.
@@zyshots4902 no, there's two, one on each carburetor, they are under white plastic caps that you have to pay out. Also it's really only IDLE mixture control, very unlikely that it's any problem.
Hi mate really appreciate the info you have put out. I have an extremely low idle that wants to stall. Accelerating the car drives perfect. The car struggles to start cold and the idle is rough and low once car is warm. All my vacuum hoses seem fine. Any ideas where to look?
Sounds like some issue with idle or pilot circuit. So I would go over an clean everything relating to that. I think it would be: Check idle set screw (can't remember where it is, could just be adjustable throttle stop?) Check and clean the IACV (the electrically actuated cylinder near the intake manifold, upper side) Clean the jets, mainly idle jets Clean all passages in carburetors.
Trying to work out a fuel problem with a car that has been sitting for years. I have fuel up to carbs but will only start and run momentarily if i spray some fuel in intakes. I really don't want to take these carbs off if i don't have to.. any suggestions?
If it's been really just sitting for years, I imagine the petrol in bowls is all clotted an gross, possibly jets gummed up.. you can try draining the carbs from the bottom and refilling with fresh petrol, but if that doesn't do it then I'm afraid you have to disassemble them.
Hello brother , thanks to your video i fixed my idle issue. But i got one question , when the car is turned on, i put my hand on the left carb mouth its not sucking air and the idle stay the same , but when i put my hand on the right carb it suck it and the car stalls, is this normal ??? Sorry for my english its not the greatest
This happens only in idle? I don't know for sure, but it may be normal. Because pathway of idle air could be different from open throttle air. So it's possible. If the car runs well and spark plugs look good, then it's probably fine. I don't have my carburetor car anymore, so I cannot verify. Good luck!
Hi i got a problem with my d15b dual carb. When I rev up, engine stall a little bit and goes up normally, but when i drive, i cant push the pedal to far because it start to stall... I need to speed up gear by gear very very slowy... I always have to drive on 2nd or 3th gear.. What is my problem?.. The first night everything was right but the other day it started going bad..
Seems like the idle circuit is working well, but there is somethign wrong at open throttle. It sound like it could be clogged main jets. But they are difficult to access, so just to rule thigns out, I'd start with checking the easy stuff first - air filter (try running without and see if there's any change) - check if there's no vacuum leaks, mainly check if the main rubber flanges aren't cracked like in my video - you can also try spraing some starter fluid straigt into the carbs when engine is running, and see if it improves - that would indicate there is not enough fuel going in at open throttle. If it turns out it;s main jets, you unfortunately have to remove the whole carb body from the car to do that. And best get an impact screwdriver, because all the phillips bolts will be seized on pretty good. Good luck!
@@sidney9534 * Air filter test. Nothing * Vaccum leaks test. Nothing * I will dissamble it and verify all these... But the first run was awesome.. No problems at all.. But the second... Not pretty good.. I will come back to you when everything will be right Thanks for your fast response buddy...
@@luckyluke97223 So if it runs well cold, but goes bad as it warms up, it could also be the choke being stuck. The linkage and gears there are pretty complicated, so it's hard to describe in text - but you can have a look, make sure everything can move, maybe spray on some silicon oil or WD or something. You can also hold the choke open manually - try ziptyin it open, see what happens.
@@luckyluke97223 does yours have a tube from intake to exhaust manifold ? Just curious cause I had to disconnect the hose from intake cause it was making my intake to hot thus limiting my rpm!
Hey, i have a problem with my carbs and can't seem to find the faut. i replaced the power valve diaphragms and replaced the flanges but still have the same issues : idle isn't stable (even when hot or cold) (more stable than in the video but it lowers / rises every 1/2 seconds) and when the engine is cold i can't accelerate at all or else i get misfires and no acceleration sometimes the idle is very stable when the engine is nice and warm but it's rare do you know where i should look into ? maybe it's an electrical issue instead of carb related but i doubt it thanks in advance !
I don't know for sure, but it sounds like lean mixture. Probably might have to go deeper in the carbs and clean all the jets? If there's dirt or water inside, that would make it like this. And of course find any vacuum leaks. Good luck, sorry I couldn't help more
Depends on what country. Usually you can find them under similar year 1.5L Civic parts. If everything else fails, I've seen people seal the original black filterbox and add a pod filter to the inlet. But don't forget to also seal up the hot air passage. Some people also add bike pod filters directly tot the carb throats, but I think that's a bad idea because it bypasses all the surrounding controls which make these carbs "smart".
Hello - check all the things in this video - check for vaccum leaks (loose or missing hoses, cracked manifold, gaps) - check if the choke is not stuck closed - check the timing belt (if it's not skipped) good luck! merhaba - bu videodaki her şeyi kontrol edin - vakum sızıntılarını kontrol edin (gevşek veya eksik hortumlar, çatlak manifold, boşluklar) - jiklenin kapalı takılıp takılmadığını kontrol edin - triger kayışını kontrol edin (atlamadıysa) iyi şanslar!
Teşekkürler aracım bu arada otomatik vites park halinde gaza yuklendigimde 7000 deviri görüyor devir saati ama hareket edince 2000 devirden sonra herşey bitiyor araç gaz tepkimesi çok gecikiyor
@@ispirsevdalilarierzurumcan3313 yeah, sounds like lack of power, so wrong mixture (not enough air or not enough fuel) Maybe the caburator slide is not riding all the way up. evet, güç eksikliği gibi geliyor, bu yüzden yanlış karışım (yeterli hava veya yetersiz yakıt) Belki karbüratör sürgüsü sonuna kadar gitmiyor.
Hi Sidney, I looked at an 86 Prelude, dual carb, with 75k original miles. very rough idle and stalls when cold coming to a stop, but starts right back up. As soon as the car warmed up completely idle was smooth. Power delivery was perfect, no concerns. Thoughts on this? I want to make an offer but need to know the issue first.
I'm not terribly knowledgeable, but overall that sounds good, if it runs fine when warm.. Could be some problem with the auto choke, or perhaps some enriching circuits (like powervalves) not working. With 75k miles I'd buy it :)
I got a good one for ya the honda i am working on has a electric fuel pump added on so i was thinking the mechanical one was bad but after testing it works the problem was the line that go from power valve to power valve on the bottom of the carb had a hole in it and the fuel bowls would empty siting over night and take many cranks to fill with the mechanical pump so they added the electric to fill them faster :) so it would start faster have a fuel leak just add more fuel lol wow
Hi Sidney, great video! I have a D14A1 with a idle problem. It doesn't surge but I think it's running a little rich because the gas mileage it's not the best. The problem is that when the engine is warmed up and I drive for some time the idle will stay as up as 1500 rpm, sometimes even higher. And when I switch the engine off and on again it's back to the normal 900ish rpm. I feel it happens the most with cold or wet weather. It could be one of the things you covered in the video? Thanks in advance!
Hello, maybe check the choke mechanism? Try if it works correctly, I believe it has the thermowax actuator? You can affix the choke flap in the open position by a ziptie. Basically check everything you can think of, start from easiest to hardest. Good luck!
@@sidney9534 Hi, sorry to bother. I have a new problem with the idle on my D14A1. About the last problem, it was just lack of lubrication on the throttle body, that due to wet and cold weather would get the RPMs "stuck" on higher levels after driving for a while. The new problem it's basically the opposite. When I start my engine on when it's still hot it won't hold the RPMs and it shuts down. If I press the gas, preventing it from shutting down, after some time I will feel the RPMs get right and it's all good. Any ideas? Thanks!
@s'rgio 96 does it have an Idle Air Control Valve? (IACV) Perhaps you have clean it inside. Another possible source would be idle air screw, sometimes some passage canget clogged. Just guessing, I no longer have the car, so can't verify.
Hi there, I have exact same engine as yours. Some days it won't start at all and other times, it would start no problem and idle for a few minutes then dies out. I have replace a new Distributor cap and main contact. It also has a newish Ignition coil with no cracks? Any ideas what it could be, please? Regards
I'd try if it starts and runs with a starting spray. Or get petrol in a spray bottle and spray right into the carbs when starting. If it starts better, then your issue is carburetors. If not, then timing or spark
Would you happen to recommend somewhere to buy a rebuild for these carbs? or point me in the direction on a service manual? I'm in the states and we never got the dual carb models here. if all else fails I can swap to efi. really informative videos by the way, this is what TH-cam is all about. thank you!
No rebuild kit exists anymore, closest is the Honda Acty part in the description. There used to be some manual, it was for a british Honda Concerto? Or something like that, I'll try to find it.
@@sidney9534 Much thanks for the reply! I’m waiting on the car currently, it’s still on a boat. But watching videos of the car running I already know it’s going to need gone through. It sat for over 20 years. New fuel tank, and new fuel filter. Ran great for a few weeks and now it’s starting to act a little funny he said. Seems like something maybe got into the carb from the lines. Or it’s just sat so long I can only imagine how brittle any piece of rubber is inside the carbs. Maybe going efi will be the wise choice. I just really wanted to keep this crx as original as possible.
@@sidney9534 we also never got the Honda acty lol but many have been imported so I’ll see if I can find any parts suppliers for one of them. Thanks again!
@@Ty-kv3zb nice! If it's a valuable car you wanna keep, I'd definitely do EFi swap. You'll only raise value of the car by ditching the carbs, where I'm from they're universally disliked.
It will probably run, but I think it will be "dumber" and less fuel efficient. I know of a guy who stripped these to bare minimum and he claims it runs perfect, but I never seen the car and sincerely doubt it.
I've done it before it will be ok, but ypu need to reroute almost everything and make sure whats vaccum and not... And yes i believe it will make less efficient but AFAIK it not q big deal
Great video! Are you 100% sure that the diaphragm from the Honda Acty will work on the D15b? I’m seeing a different part number listed for my EF6 crx and the part is discontinued anyways (16041-PC6-005 and 16042-PC6-005). They call it ECONOMIZER SET A and B. I have fuel leaking at exactly the same hose that you indicated.
Hi, thanks! No, I am not 100% sure, I didn't order it myself, but it looks identical on the photo, so I think there's a fair chance it will be same. The biggest difference will be the aluminium caps - dual carb are mirrored, but what we need is the diaphragm and that should be interchangeable. I didn't find any other alternative.
@@sidney9534 nebazmeg, hogy kicsi a világ. :D nem vagy Magyar, vagy mégis? :D Szuperek a videók. Mindjárt rá is megyek egy crx-re ha találok. xD Melyik motor ez a dupla karbis? Köszönöm :respect:
@@cybcarr Szia köszönöm! Nem vagyok magyar, csak a google fordítót használom. Milyen motorra gondolsz? Ebben a videóban D15B, a fehér CRX pedig DOHC ZC
@@sidney9534 az enyém 1,4 dual carb. A PTFE szallagot nem marja szét a benzin? Hát ezt ki kell próbáljam. Egyébként van benne egy harmadik membrán is. Az mire való?
That's pretty sweet! Yeah, there will be a lot of variatons - who knows what else is there out of tune, plus driving styule and environment plays a huge part. Mine is lots of hills, maybe 10% city and keeping the speed around 100km/h.
Hi there! Thanx for the video. I am looking for a compatible carburetor repair kit for my civic 1.4 GL. No luck at all. Can anyone help me with that? Thanx!!
If it's a single carb, the repair kits are available on ebay, or various shops like RockAuto www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1987,civic,1.3l+l4,1430219,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964 If dual carb, then there's no kits available, you have to make do as in this video.
Ah, right, there should be some mechanism to raise idle when AC is on. Unfortunately my car didn't have AC, so I don't know off the top of my head. The service manual should have it.
Hi I got almost everything sorted out on my engine, but nobody can tell me whats the issue that I'm having. Depending on the weather and altitude, the engine rpm can get very low or high. If I turn on the blower fan or brake the engine rpm dips on idle. I'm assuming it has something to do with the throttle controller and that there must be some sort of feedback loop that regulates the engine idle. How does that work?
@@DreamAndThrive. The throttle controller has nothing to do with that. I got a afr gauge and adjusted the idle mixture. Another source of problems is the sparkplug cables and the distributor, those need replacing.
Good vid :) Pro: tip: make sure the silcon/tape/etc you use is fuel proof (or you'll be doing this job again in the near future).
I just recently determined that the same power valve is on my 3-barrel Keihin carburetor on my 1982 Prelude and that the pn 16046-PN3-005 might also be a replacement. There is only one on it.
I had purchased a Walker carb rebuild kit to get the power valve diaphragm and the replacement leaked! I then got another from Airtex and it seemed to work. I called Walker and they said they'd send a replacement power valve. We'll have to see.
Thanks! This helped alot with the issues, I'm running these on my D13B2 EG3
you can rebuild that power valve using old tube tire, or use a sikaflex sealant the one that uses for the windshield,
hey, did you cut the whole shape of an old tube and replaced it or just some kind of o-ring to the old ones?
Great video, thank you for this!
I have an 86 prelude that won’t idle without the gas peddle and starts around 1.7-2k rpms. I also felt the right side of the carb wasn’t sucking in air as much
Could you help at all
Sounds like the idle curcuit is not working - simplest explanation would be it's clogged. So take it apart and clean, especially all jets and tiny passages. Cleaning jets can be tricky, because sometimes there's hard crust drom fuel that's difficult to scrape off. I do it with a copper wire, but if you can get you hands on an ultrasonic cleaner, that's absolutely ideal.
Do you have any good video recommendations on how to remove a carb and will I have to pull my motor to do so or will I just be at a weird angle getting those bolts
@@bigfella9058 the only tricky part is you have to get under the car and remove a bottom support bracket and unplug a few connectors down there. Rest is pretty straightforward.
Be prepared all the phillips screws will be really stuck - if you can get an impact screwdriver, that will be a big help. If not, break the screws loose with vise grips.
Thank you very much it helps me a lot for my Honda Prelude 3G B20A4 ! One question : what are power valves for?
Np, glad it helped! I think the valves enrich the mixture in states of low vacuum (heavy load with throttle open). Kind of like acceleration pump on motorcycles, but different.
You have a video how to clean this exact carburator?
Don't have, sorry! Get an impact screwdriver, best of luck!
Hi Sidney, thank you for this- my 85 prelude is getting too little fuel and therefore the mixture is bad and not passing the emissions test. I suspect one carb is not giving enough fuel since the engine does not run that smooth. Where should I start?
Hello, I would probably start from the easiest - (look for vacuum leaks, check integrity of diaphragm actuators), to the hardest (take apart the carbs and clean inside, especially the jets). It's a bit of a pain, Honda didn't make them very accessible. Good luck!
hi, is there any possible way to contact you personally? i have so many questions. have own a cv dual carb, read thru the workshop manual for diagnostics and some forum but she's still not starting. any workshops here dont do it anymore or just dont want to touch honda cv dual carb. i would be very glad to hear it from you back :').
Feel free to message me here, I read this all the time.
Generally with these problems you want to go and rule out things. The engine needs a correct fuel mixture, compression, timing and spark.
Check all of these. For ruling out carburetors, a starting spray is a good and straigtforward tool. If it starts with the spray, you know you have to look into the carbs.
Hey mate,
I am having issues with a D15 dual carb setup.
I can only get it to start when holding the throttle flat or when pumping it.
When it does run it idles at around 2k rpm and has terrible throttle response until it dies out.
I have just replaced the engine and believe I have messed up a vaccum line somewhere when reinstalling the intake manifold.
I am happy to pay you for your time if I can get your advice on fixing it.
Hello, my rate is 60 minutes/hour, hope you can afford that!
It does sound like there is something major wrong, and if it started happening after engine replacement, I'd guess it's some damage or something incorrectly installed. I'm guessing it's about the idle circuit.
As usual, I would check things from easiest to hardest.
- trace all hoses and check if they are attached to correct points. If you're lucky, there should be a diagram on a label underside your bonnet.
- also check fuel hoses (from the pump, return line and breather - they're easy to mix up)
- check if the choke and throttle linkages operate smoothly, check if the choke plate is how you'd expect (tiny bit open when cold, fully open when hot - if not, you can ziptie the linkage open to rule it out)
- take off top hats of the carbs and check if the slides are free to move
- check electrical connections of carious solenoids around the carbs
- check if various vacuum diaphragm actuators hold vacuum by sucking on their top hoses
- drain the carburators from the bottom (can loosen the powervalve caps)
- you can try plugging up various vacuum hoses to see if anythign changes
- take off the carbs, disassembel and clean inside.
Good luck, hope you'll get to the bottom of it.
This is the closest I’ve found to my problem! Hi! I have a 1987 Honda accord Lx with stock Keihin carb. It does the surging idle thing after about thirty seconds from startup, unless I give it gas, if I let off gas, it surges then stalls…. Already changed fuel pump and filter, battery and distributor are new as well. Plugs haven’t been used much before problem occurred and wires are new….. Would you happen to know if the fix you recommended will work for my carb? Thanks!
Definitely worth it to rule out vacuum leak (in my case cracked flanges). That's the most typical culprit of surging.
Awesome video. Any idea what causes misfiring after driving hard? Mine is a d14a1 with these twin carbs on.
Hmm, hard to say. I'd check the ignition, check wires and connectors for oxidation or damage..
Check vacuum advance on the dizzy.
Check cooling system, is it bled?
@@sidney9534 Think I'll just stick on a new set of carbs I've just refurbished for cheap. My old ones are pretty knackered by the seems of things
Hey, I’ve got an issue with a 1991 Honda Civic d15b4, the engine runs really rough, rich and feels like it’s flooding. The engine is also flooding whenever I leave it overnight and blows a lot of smoke. There is also fuel getting into the oil. Any ideas as to what might be causing this?
I don't have actual experience with this, but I would guess it's the carby float valve not sealing. Basically take apart the carbies entirely and clean up. Better get an impact screwdriver, all of these philips screws will be stuck as heck. GL
@@sidney9534 thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate it. Also, do u know any guides that exist out on the internet that could give me an idea as to how I can go about getting the carburettors out of the engine bay? There isn’t many service manuals out there on my car in particular that show me how to do it (probably just me not understanding it properly lol)
@@lachlananderson6470 happy to help. I know of this service manual, may be some help: media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/ConcertoManual/sect2.html
Good day..how could i fix my dual carb.. its like chillin and shaking and then suddenly engine shutdown..
Could be lots of things. I suggest starting from simplest and cheapest checks to the hardest. Air filter ok? Hoses all ok and connected? Choke operating correctly? Any vacuum leaks? Flanges ok? Any wires or plugs damaged? Carbs and jets inside clean? Diaphragms not cracked?
Just a quick question, would you know where the air/fuel mixture screws are on the carburettors?
Don't have a picture handy, but the screws should be under white plastic caps that are angled up about 45deg. Mind you this is only the idle circuit adjustment.
@@sidney9534 is the air/fuel mixture screws. near the idle control screw?
@@zyshots4902 no, there's two, one on each carburetor, they are under white plastic caps that you have to pay out. Also it's really only IDLE mixture control, very unlikely that it's any problem.
Is it possible to apply the silicone without removing the carb? Already rebuilt the carb but still surges at low idle.
There's really bad acces, so I'd say no. But you can try. Also don't forget to do the brace, without it it will split again.
Hi mate really appreciate the info you have put out. I have an extremely low idle that wants to stall. Accelerating the car drives perfect. The car struggles to start cold and the idle is rough and low once car is warm. All my vacuum hoses seem fine. Any ideas where to look?
Sounds like some issue with idle or pilot circuit. So I would go over an clean everything relating to that. I think it would be:
Check idle set screw (can't remember where it is, could just be adjustable throttle stop?)
Check and clean the IACV (the electrically actuated cylinder near the intake manifold, upper side)
Clean the jets, mainly idle jets
Clean all passages in carburetors.
Thanks mate I’ll give that a go, yeah I know it has a idle boost screw that I played with but did nothing. I’ll try the other checks
@@vlua. I can't remember exactly, but if the idle screw has an air passage through it, it might be clogged too.
Trying to work out a fuel problem with a car that has been sitting for years. I have fuel up to carbs but will only start and run momentarily if i spray some fuel in intakes. I really don't want to take these carbs off if i don't have to.. any suggestions?
If it's been really just sitting for years, I imagine the petrol in bowls is all clotted an gross, possibly jets gummed up.. you can try draining the carbs from the bottom and refilling with fresh petrol, but if that doesn't do it then I'm afraid you have to disassemble them.
Hello brother , thanks to your video i fixed my idle issue. But i got one question , when the car is turned on, i put my hand on the left carb mouth its not sucking air and the idle stay the same , but when i put my hand on the right carb it suck it and the car stalls, is this normal ??? Sorry for my english its not the greatest
This happens only in idle?
I don't know for sure, but it may be normal. Because pathway of idle air could be different from open throttle air. So it's possible. If the car runs well and spark plugs look good, then it's probably fine.
I don't have my carburetor car anymore, so I cannot verify.
Good luck!
@@sidney9534 yea only at idle but i tried and i give it throttle and put my hand on the carb it sucked air just fine
Thx for the reply bro
Hi my problem is i do not have idle up once i open the AC .
Hey there, I've got a 91 civic d15 dual carb that has almost no power after about 4k rpm, do you have any idea what this could be?
Just a few ideas:
Slides not raising all the way up (vacuum leak or stuck)
problem with main jets (clogged)
stuck choke (stuck closed)
Hi I have a question please.
Is this dual carb civic, the same as concerto?
@marseillaisajamais9749 I don't know for sure, but I think it is. I used concerto service manual for my CRX.
Hi i got a problem with my d15b dual carb. When I rev up, engine stall a little bit and goes up normally, but when i drive, i cant push the pedal to far because it start to stall... I need to speed up gear by gear very very slowy... I always have to drive on 2nd or 3th gear.. What is my problem?.. The first night everything was right but the other day it started going bad..
Seems like the idle circuit is working well, but there is somethign wrong at open throttle.
It sound like it could be clogged main jets. But they are difficult to access, so just to rule thigns out, I'd start with checking the easy stuff first
- air filter (try running without and see if there's any change)
- check if there's no vacuum leaks, mainly check if the main rubber flanges aren't cracked like in my video
- you can also try spraing some starter fluid straigt into the carbs when engine is running, and see if it improves - that would indicate there is not enough fuel going in at open throttle.
If it turns out it;s main jets, you unfortunately have to remove the whole carb body from the car to do that. And best get an impact screwdriver, because all the phillips bolts will be seized on pretty good.
Good luck!
@@sidney9534
* Air filter test. Nothing
* Vaccum leaks test. Nothing
* I will dissamble it and verify all these...
But the first run was awesome.. No problems at all..
But the second... Not pretty good..
I will come back to you when everything will be right
Thanks for your fast response buddy...
@@luckyluke97223 So if it runs well cold, but goes bad as it warms up, it could also be the choke being stuck.
The linkage and gears there are pretty complicated, so it's hard to describe in text - but you can have a look, make sure everything can move, maybe spray on some silicon oil or WD or something.
You can also hold the choke open manually - try ziptyin it open, see what happens.
@@luckyluke97223 does yours have a tube from intake to exhaust manifold ? Just curious cause I had to disconnect the hose from intake cause it was making my intake to hot thus limiting my rpm!
Hey, i have a problem with my carbs and can't seem to find the faut.
i replaced the power valve diaphragms and replaced the flanges but still have the same issues :
idle isn't stable (even when hot or cold) (more stable than in the video but it lowers / rises every 1/2 seconds) and when the engine is cold i can't accelerate at all or else i get misfires and no acceleration
sometimes the idle is very stable when the engine is nice and warm but it's rare
do you know where i should look into ? maybe it's an electrical issue instead of carb related but i doubt it
thanks in advance !
I don't know for sure, but it sounds like lean mixture. Probably might have to go deeper in the carbs and clean all the jets? If there's dirt or water inside, that would make it like this. And of course find any vacuum leaks.
Good luck, sorry I couldn't help more
@@sidney9534 Ok i see, thank you so much for replying so fast :)
hello...where did we can buy an air filter of dual carb? like that in a video?
Depends on what country. Usually you can find them under similar year 1.5L Civic parts. If everything else fails, I've seen people seal the original black filterbox and add a pod filter to the inlet. But don't forget to also seal up the hot air passage. Some people also add bike pod filters directly tot the carb throats, but I think that's a bad idea because it bypasses all the surrounding controls which make these carbs "smart".
Merhaba sidney benim sorunum konçerto 1990 model çift dual karbüratör hem yakıt fazla yakıyor hemde yokuşlarda perfonmans sıfır zoraki yürüyor
Hello
- check all the things in this video
- check for vaccum leaks (loose or missing hoses, cracked manifold, gaps)
- check if the choke is not stuck closed
- check the timing belt (if it's not skipped)
good luck!
merhaba
- bu videodaki her şeyi kontrol edin
- vakum sızıntılarını kontrol edin (gevşek veya eksik hortumlar, çatlak manifold, boşluklar)
- jiklenin kapalı takılıp takılmadığını kontrol edin
- triger kayışını kontrol edin (atlamadıysa)
iyi şanslar!
Teşekkürler aracım bu arada otomatik vites park halinde gaza yuklendigimde 7000 deviri görüyor devir saati ama hareket edince 2000 devirden sonra herşey bitiyor araç gaz tepkimesi çok gecikiyor
@@ispirsevdalilarierzurumcan3313 yeah, sounds like lack of power, so wrong mixture (not enough air or not enough fuel)
Maybe the caburator slide is not riding all the way up.
evet, güç eksikliği gibi geliyor, bu yüzden yanlış karışım (yeterli hava veya yetersiz yakıt) Belki karbüratör sürgüsü sonuna kadar gitmiyor.
you are awesome man!
Hi Sidney, I looked at an 86 Prelude, dual carb, with 75k original miles. very rough idle and stalls when cold coming to a stop, but starts right back up. As soon as the car warmed up completely idle was smooth. Power delivery was perfect, no concerns. Thoughts on this? I want to make an offer but need to know the issue first.
I'm not terribly knowledgeable, but overall that sounds good, if it runs fine when warm.. Could be some problem with the auto choke, or perhaps some enriching circuits (like powervalves) not working. With 75k miles I'd buy it :)
I got a good one for ya the honda i am working on has a electric fuel pump added on so i was thinking the mechanical one was bad but after testing it works the problem was the line that go from power valve to power valve on the bottom of the carb had a hole in it and the fuel bowls would empty siting over night and take many cranks to fill with the mechanical pump so they added the electric to fill them faster :) so it would start faster have a fuel leak just add more fuel lol wow
@HBP2 more is better, it only makes sense ;)
Hi Sidney, great video!
I have a D14A1 with a idle problem.
It doesn't surge but I think it's running a little rich because the gas mileage it's not the best.
The problem is that when the engine is warmed up and I drive for some time the idle will stay as up as 1500 rpm, sometimes even higher. And when I switch the engine off and on again it's back to the normal 900ish rpm.
I feel it happens the most with cold or wet weather. It could be one of the things you covered in the video?
Thanks in advance!
Hello, maybe check the choke mechanism? Try if it works correctly, I believe it has the thermowax actuator? You can affix the choke flap in the open position by a ziptie.
Basically check everything you can think of, start from easiest to hardest.
Good luck!
@@sidney9534 I'm actually not sure if my engine has a thermowax actuator, but I'll look first into the choker, it makes sense. Thanks!
@@sidney9534 Hi, sorry to bother. I have a new problem with the idle on my D14A1.
About the last problem, it was just lack of lubrication on the throttle body, that due to wet and cold weather would get the RPMs "stuck" on higher levels after driving for a while.
The new problem it's basically the opposite. When I start my engine on when it's still hot it won't hold the RPMs and it shuts down. If I press the gas, preventing it from shutting down, after some time I will feel the RPMs get right and it's all good.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
@s'rgio 96 does it have an Idle Air Control Valve? (IACV)
Perhaps you have clean it inside.
Another possible source would be idle air screw, sometimes some passage canget clogged. Just guessing, I no longer have the car, so can't verify.
Hi. Do you know where to get the repair kits please?
You can't, they don't exist anymore.
I have a problem with my carburetor pls help😭
Welcome to the club!
Hi there, I have exact same engine as yours. Some days it won't start at all and other times, it would start no problem and idle for a few minutes then dies out. I have replace a new Distributor cap and main contact. It also has a newish Ignition coil with no cracks? Any ideas what it could be, please? Regards
I'd try if it starts and runs with a starting spray. Or get petrol in a spray bottle and spray right into the carbs when starting. If it starts better, then your issue is carburetors. If not, then timing or spark
Would you happen to recommend somewhere to buy a rebuild for these carbs? or point me in the direction on a service manual? I'm in the states and we never got the dual carb models here. if all else fails I can swap to efi.
really informative videos by the way, this is what TH-cam is all about. thank you!
No rebuild kit exists anymore, closest is the Honda Acty part in the description.
There used to be some manual, it was for a british Honda Concerto? Or something like that, I'll try to find it.
Ah damn, it used to be here but it's deleted...
www.honda.co.uk/owner/ConcertoManual/
@@sidney9534 Much thanks for the reply! I’m waiting on the car currently, it’s still on a boat. But watching videos of the car running I already know it’s going to need gone through. It sat for over 20 years. New fuel tank, and new fuel filter. Ran great for a few weeks and now it’s starting to act a little funny he said. Seems like something maybe got into the carb from the lines. Or it’s just sat so long I can only imagine how brittle any piece of rubber is inside the carbs. Maybe going efi will be the wise choice. I just really wanted to keep this crx as original as possible.
@@sidney9534 we also never got the Honda acty lol but many have been imported so I’ll see if I can find any parts suppliers for one of them. Thanks again!
@@Ty-kv3zb nice! If it's a valuable car you wanna keep, I'd definitely do EFi swap. You'll only raise value of the car by ditching the carbs, where I'm from they're universally disliked.
Blake cylinder ser yo in te honda avura integra 1990
Is it normal for the engine when oil spitting out from oil cap. but no smoke. and what can i do to fix it. PCV?
You mean splashing when the cap is removed? That's probably normal.
Can i run this carb without the black box in the firewall, mine is converted to automatic .
It will probably run, but I think it will be "dumber" and less fuel efficient. I know of a guy who stripped these to bare minimum and he claims it runs perfect, but I never seen the car and sincerely doubt it.
@@sidney9534 thanks for the info sir! im just concerned about the map sensor mine is broken already .
I've done it before it will be ok, but ypu need to reroute almost everything and make sure whats vaccum and not...
And yes i believe it will make less efficient but AFAIK it not q big deal
Just want to get more info, does it have a vacuum advance nipple coz i want to put the carbs on another car
The dizzy on this car does have vacuum advance, and there are also about 50 more vacuum hoses all around it, good luck sorting though it :)
Hello there sir are you in the uk by any chance
A bit further from there!
Great video! Are you 100% sure that the diaphragm from the Honda Acty will work on the D15b?
I’m seeing a different part number listed for my EF6 crx and the part is discontinued anyways (16041-PC6-005 and 16042-PC6-005). They call it ECONOMIZER SET A and B.
I have fuel leaking at exactly the same hose that you indicated.
Hi, thanks! No, I am not 100% sure, I didn't order it myself, but it looks identical on the photo, so I think there's a fair chance it will be same. The biggest difference will be the aluminium caps - dual carb are mirrored, but what we need is the diaphragm and that should be interchangeable.
I didn't find any other alternative.
@@sidney9534 great thanks. I’ll check on the forums and see. I thought the same thing about the caps.
Tudsz segíteni? Hol tudok venni javító készletet. Valami link tudnál küldeni? Köszönöm.
Az nem baj, ha nem eredeti. Egyéb márka is jó.😀
@@zutyuf Javítókészletek nem léteznek. Csak ami ebben a videóban látható
@@sidney9534 nebazmeg, hogy kicsi a világ. :D nem vagy Magyar, vagy mégis? :D Szuperek a videók. Mindjárt rá is megyek egy crx-re ha találok. xD
Melyik motor ez a dupla karbis? Köszönöm :respect:
@@cybcarr Szia köszönöm! Nem vagyok magyar, csak a google fordítót használom. Milyen motorra gondolsz? Ebben a videóban D15B, a fehér CRX pedig DOHC ZC
@@sidney9534 az enyém 1,4 dual carb. A PTFE szallagot nem marja szét a benzin? Hát ezt ki kell próbáljam. Egyébként van benne egy harmadik membrán is. Az mire való?
I used to get 42mpg out of mine although the burning oil could of been making up the other 6mpg lol 🤣.
That's pretty sweet! Yeah, there will be a lot of variatons - who knows what else is there out of tune, plus driving styule and environment plays a huge part. Mine is lots of hills, maybe 10% city and keeping the speed around 100km/h.
Hi there! Thanx for the video. I am looking for a compatible carburetor repair kit for my civic 1.4 GL. No luck at all. Can anyone help me with that? Thanx!!
If it's a single carb, the repair kits are available on ebay, or various shops like RockAuto www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,1987,civic,1.3l+l4,1430219,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964
If dual carb, then there's no kits available, you have to make do as in this video.
@@sidney9534 Hi there! I have a honda civic 1.4 cv dual carb and i need
carburetor repair kit.
@@D14a1 I don't think you can get those anymore, have to DIY.
@@sidney9534 I'm looking 3 months and I can't find it. The car is doing worse and worse. 😢
@@D14a1 yeah, that's the reality. Try sourcing parts individually, some still exist as spare parts for kei trucks (Honda Acty) like in this video.
İf u need diaprahms i can provide it for cheap 2 power and one other diaprahms
Feul pump location?
Mechanical pump driven from the cam
And i can provide carb flanges too
Really? I'm interested
@@bozidarbilusic what do u need my friend?
@@maxi3344 flanges
İf u need diaprahms i cand send bot flange and diaprahms set
@@maxi3344 what would be the price for both flanges and diaphragms?
Sana türkiye den selamlar yardımcı ol lütfen
😣😣😣
2000 devire kadar normal tepkimesi 2000 den sonra zoraki gidiyor sonradan hızlanıyor bu arada aracım otomatik vites
Hi my problem is i do not have idle up once i open the AC .
Ah, right, there should be some mechanism to raise idle when AC is on. Unfortunately my car didn't have AC, so I don't know off the top of my head. The service manual should have it.
Hi
I got almost everything sorted out on my engine, but nobody can tell me whats the issue that I'm having. Depending on the weather and altitude, the engine rpm can get very low or high. If I turn on the blower fan or brake the engine rpm dips on idle. I'm assuming it has something to do with the throttle controller and that there must be some sort of feedback loop that regulates the engine idle. How does that work?
Have the same problem bro any info please
@@DreamAndThrive. The throttle controller has nothing to do with that. I got a afr gauge and adjusted the idle mixture. Another source of problems is the sparkplug cables and the distributor, those need replacing.