Things I used in this video: 1. Screwdriver set: amzn.to/2jaHIfP 2. Common Sense 3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX 4. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 6. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 7. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
I have a 1985 k1500 I don't know the carb I have on it its a 305 and I am getting bad mpg and I never did before but I can smell the gas when I decelerate and it started to sputter when I'm braking and when I turn it on it blows black smoke what do you think this could be
Scotty Kilmer, good vid but you left out how to check vacuum to and adjust if needed, the primary and secondary choke pull offs as well as the fine tune adjustment of the choke mechanism and choke step down idle speeds.
Hi Scotty, I have an 1987 Toyota starlet. (engine is 2e-c) Which is difficult to start when it is cold. I suspect this is the automatic choke that failed. How can I fix it?
Heh, I remember doing this back in auto school and it was actually kinda fun and educational. The instructor had the engine plugged into a smog machine to read the gasses coming out and we had to adjust the carburetor so that the exhaust reach at or below state exhaust requirements.
ThisISETHANBRADBERRY! New cars will never give the same feel as the originals. Dodge is bringing back the barracudas in 2020, but if you look at the assumed photos, it's nothing like the cars that cruised with style through the 70s and 80s.
Really helps to use a vacuum gauge. Get it idling as low as it will without jerking around, plug the gauge into a fitting on the intake (manifold vacuum), then adjust mixture screws .5 turn outwards at a time for each (.5 on left, .5 on right, left, right, etc) until highest vacuum reading, and then adjust idle to 700-800rpm in park. Too high of idle and the car will slam into gear. Anymore than 900rpm and most older carbureted cars with their stock 1100-1500 stall converters will start to engage. Thats why it goes into gear really hard. Manual cars idle speed can be a bit higher or lower, measured in neutral, parkng brake set and wheels chocked. Find what your engine likes.
This is a video on how to adjust the idle mixture and idle RPM. How about making a video on how to properly jet a carb, adjust the accelerator pump, and set the choke. Most peop leave no idea how to properly set up a carb for a new combination. Thanks, Chris
well that's pretty easy. Mainly you have 3 jets on a carb and in general you can say. One is for idle, the middle one is for normal driving and the main one the big one is for full throttle. What you need is time and various jets at hand. At first of course let the car warm up, and for the idler jet you simply let the car idle for a certain period and then check the colour of the sparkplug For the middle jet, you go on the freeway and drive it for about 1 hour with about 50% throttle. Now you can go by the colour of the sparkplug if you want clean emissions and low fuel consumption or you make several runs with different jets and find out when it got the highest speed. The same should be done for the maine jet although a richer mixture is preferable
Thank you so much! My car got repossessed recently and my only means of transportation to work is my 44 year old tank of a car. You have no idea how much I appreciate this!
Loved your video. Just bought a 66 mustang and I'm feeling it is time to tune the carb. Maybe even upgrade. I bought it about a week ago and I'm just getting started. I plan on getting a longer cam, headers, better hood with a scoop, and much more, including some major cosmetics. I hope by the end of the year, I will have a maroon and black pony with a mean engine to walk the walk. But I am glad I found your video to give me the official start to the restoration of my baddest dreams. God bless buddy. Give that stingray everything it wants. Lots of road and serious torque to leave its signature.
Wow!! You went waaaaay back Scotty. I can't remember the last time I've seen someone adjust a carburetor. The ones on my 80's GM's had caps over the mixture screws and couldn't even be adjusted.
mclaine33 Do you also wish modern cars had worse fuel economy, didn't last as long, could be affected by small changes in fuel makeup, required more maintenance, and so on? I think its a fair trade off.
Gerberbaby922 Yeah fuel economy sucked but gas was very cheap. It isn't good for the environment though. Didn't last as long? Idk what you're talking about. I feel like many older cars were better build than todays cheapo junk parts that fall off or break (like bumpers made of plastic). More maintenance, yes sometimes, depending how often you drove. Overall it would be nice if cars today can be built just as well as older cars were. A really great example that I can say would be the Tesla Model S. That thing is very well engineered and I'm sure in the future that will become a "collectible or classic" too.
Gerberbaby922 What about SEFI & EEC, but pre OBD? Gotta 5.0 Windsor ('86 Colony Park) which uses half the fuel compared to my old '63 Impala: 283 with Edelbrock AFB. Not entirely fair, since the Merc has a 4 spd with lock-up, but I feel the improvements in maintenance aren't that big anymore between a 1986 panther and a 2012 one, and according to the EPA their carbon footprint is equal... The best of both worlds perhaps?
mclaine33 man I wish cars still had 5.7 liters of displacement and only put out 170 horses lol. i drive an old carbed 350 sometimes but i have to admit that modern cars with vvt, efi, forced induction ect are pretty amazing. the new eco in my mustanf is putting out 390 ob ft and 335 hp from only 2.3 liters !!! im notbgetting the estimated epa mpg but thats probably because its so much fun to drive
I have almost the exact same car and was gonna waste almost 100 $ to get the carburetor adjusted now all I need to do is use a screwdriver thank you so much Scotty Kilmer you saved the day for me 👍
And remember, since at least 1982 automakers such as GM went mostly to computer-controlled carbs with mapped ignition timing. You can only adjust the idle speed on most OEM computer carbs. For better performance, people had to change the intake manifold, fuel jetting and sometimes the PCM. Because of growing fuel economy and emissions standards, engine performance was sacrificed majorly from 1973-1987. Of course, the old school performance aftermarket exists for those yearning for simplicity. Replace and burn rubber.
i rebuilt several carburetors in my time ! they are a lot easier to work on then fuel injection ! I had cars back in the 60s and 70s with carburetors started and ran better then cars today !
I turn the mixture out/rich until it reaches the steady high rpm. Then turn it back in slowly until the speed drops 50 rpm. Readjust idle speed and repeat on other side. The lean drop method will yield better results if you go offroad a lot or otherwise idle around in low gear like 4 wheeling.
Your videos are great I don’t know much when it comes to cars wish I would of payed more attention to my dad growing up but your videos help a lot haha.
I had a 750cfm double pumper Holley on my bb 440 cu in with a 280 crane cam. I just Use a Vacuum/ pressure gauge to tune it. Ignition Timing has to be checked first before you tune the carburetor.
I learned the best way to adjust the carb is to attach a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and to ALWAYS make sure the fuel idle mixture screws are adjusted evenly 1/4-1/8 turns at a time, until the best vacuum is found. You just seemed to turn the screws willy nilly
Thank you for this video, after getting turned down by several “licensed mechanics” who apparently don’t work on carburetors, I got my 72 Jeep commando purring just right! Whatever anyone does, don’t come to Puerto Rico lmao!
That's why I love my 87 dodge ram and 80 mustang had to do my first mechanical fuel pump on my truck last winter was under 20 bucks and under 30 minutes to change
I never leave my mixture screws at highest idle. They are too close to a lean condition that way. For 45 years I have taught others to screw them out 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from high idle to allow for any contaminants that WILL get in the idle circuit. This of course is not how the EPA would like it but it allows more time until they need to be readjusted. The factory settings (in the 1970's)were slightly in from high idle and of course demanded readjustment in no time. I am surprised that others have not taken up the slightly rich practice as it works better for a longer time. Highest idle is not necessarily "perfect" as some would say if you have to keep readjusting them. In some states that unfortunately have smog tests I suppose you have to do it their way but not where I live. I have several cars with two four barrel carbs. and rarely have to adjust them.
Thanks Scotty. You've helped me a lot with my Saturn SLs, my Scout IIs, my Plymouth Acclaim and my girlfriend's Mitsubishi Montero. Living proof that you CAN fix stupid:-)
One serious pet peeve of mine is bad wiring jobs, especially on classic cars like this, like those black wires @1:22 ....but anyway, good video, thanks for sharing Scotty
Wow Actually I am from Sri Lanka and have a old Mitsubishi Lancer. Tried from many garages but no one can fix it for better tuning. But with your video I got my maximum level of fuel consumption. Thanks so much. Also if you have the chance do a video for ajusting Dialpham to have minimum sound from engine and also for maximum plug distribution. Again thank you very much 😈😎
definitely need more videos like this I have a 85 Chevrolet celebrity 2.8 2 barrel carburetor but it's a Rochester carb I wish u had video of something like that or close or just more videos of carburetor vehicles it would help. And love all of your videos been subscribed and watching for a long time your videos have really helped
Scotty, this is clearly the Corvette from your intro. Is it yours? Do you still have it? Do you drive it when it's warm outside? I just love the sound of these old, carburated V8 engines.... (we don't have many of those here in Europe)
The throttle return spring is a mess - should be doubled and hooked into the proper hole. - Connect a timing light with tach, plug vacuum advance hose to eliminate it during tuning. Ground idle stop switch. Set warm curb idle to recommended speed, usually 650 - 750 RPM. - Assuming timing is correct, shut car off and gently seat idle mixture screws. Right is richer, left is leaner. - Carefully and evenly back out mixture screws 2.5 turns. This is a very common baseline setting with OEM carbs. - Connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum. Start the car, and slowly but evenly back out the mixture screws to a point where manifold vacuum just starts to drop. Turn each screw in a quarter turn from that point. Check and readjust curb idle. - if turning the screws out (leaner) doesn't affect vacuum, you've got a vacuum leak someplace. Check hoses, intake, and carb, and repair. - Most aftermarket carbs are set up quite rich. That's only fine if your car never sees the street. Otherwise, you need to rejet to prevent unburned fuel from washing down the cylinder walls. - You set the choke, per mfr instructions, when the engine is cold. Don't forget to adjust the fast idle speed - 1200 RPM is fine on a street engine. - Hook 'er all back up and try it out. If the engine wants to die when warm, while putting it in gear, it wants a little more timing. If it falls on its face during normal acceleration, check the accelerator pump/setting. If it bogs when kicking it down, you need to adjust the secondary air door tension.
Ok so I've got this 82 corolla, it rattles a bit like a diesel under load or when going up hills but when you pull the choke out, the rattle stops completely and it's nice & quiet. Plus this rattling thing only happens when it's fully warmed up.
As a single engine piston pilot, I've always wondered why auto makers never opted to include a mixture knob? Would it be ineffective due to the constant change of engine power being demanded (start, accelerating, stopping, etc.)?
Just a guess but I'd think that air is regulated by the throttle (gas pedal to throttle body) and fuel is regulated via engine load/ vacuum. It seems to me that a mixture knob would be redundant but perhaps I'm missing something?
FINALLY!! Btw, as soon as you revved it a bit after finishing the adjustments, it didn't sound that good... As soon as you opened the throttle, but before it got to higher RPM's.
Scotty Kilmer For such a stock engine, you's be better off with a dual plane manifold. Single planes manifolds are generally reserved for high rpm motors.
So, the final step is adjusting the idling. How does this relate to adjusting the timing and turning the distributor left or right? Which one is tuned/completed first?
Thinking of getting a 1971 thunderbird (has the 429 cu Ford with 4 barrel carb) as my second car, the car only needs a paint job and a door lock according to the original owner
+Alex Raskalove realize that's when ford quality was at a low point, don't pay much for one because they are not really collector's items and aren't worth much
efi is good but what a pain to work on , carburators can be efficient if you know how to dial them in correctly, the Carter afb in my chrysler 413 averaged better fuel milage than my dodge ram 1500 with a 5.9
Hey Scotty, been watching your videos for some time, great work by the way, and i was wondering if you have or could do a carburetor cleaning video, I have a 1994 nissan sentra carburated, and I'm not sure if it needs cleaning. Keep up the good work.
thanks for all he help and ideals, question for you - i have a 1980 corvette with that same carburetor - cant keep ideal very well - i had never noticed if there was a spring or something on the other side for the choke? there are a couple holes over there that seems might be to keep in place or adjust ?? wondering if had any ideals on that. Thanks again
I almost skipped this video cause the chances of me owning a vehicle with a carb are pretty slim these days.. but, I couldn't do it. Just had to watch it.
Don't try this at home, but I've cut trees and made sure they fell the direction I wanted by tying a rope to the tree and my pickups back bumper and a slightly longer chain to the future stump and my bumper, then I tighten the idle screw to around 1200rpm and put the truck in drive, it pulled the tree and then the stump and chain kept the truck from running away
That's why they make a vacuum gauge,to get the best results for the carburetor settings and the highest vacuum reading for the engine to perform to its best. Just using a screw driver,one it is the lazy way,and two,you can't depend on the vehicle running the the best,or max performance.DUH,Have a nice day......
I just bought a mint 1989 Honda Accord LX that has an idle issue. Vacuum lines are all good. My next step is tuning the Carb. Could you give me some pointers?
Don't adjust the "idle screw" if you have a vacuum advance distributor. it's wrongly named and actually adjusts your tranfer slots that controls when the distributor gets vacuum and starts advancing timing. If this is set wrong it will throw off your timing and most people confuse a timing issue for a carburetor issue and chase down a rabbit hole that leads no where. The transfer slots should be adjusted so the moment you touch the throttle it begins sending vacuum to your distributor. Furthermore proper idle RPM is set with a distributor adjustment not a carburetor adjustment assuming your mixture is correct.
I'm not mechanically inclined but have been learning a few things after I met with a mechanic after I had issues with acceleration and starting once in a while. He wants to put a Edelbrock carburetor in my '79 Trans Am with 403 instead of rebuilding the Quadrajet. He says it would be smarter and much better and he would've done it a long time ago if it was his car. Car group friends are advising me not to. What do you think?
Things I used in this video:
1. Screwdriver set: amzn.to/2jaHIfP
2. Common Sense
3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX
4. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9
5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
6. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
7. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
❗️Check out the Scotty store:
goo.gl/RwhRGU
👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics:
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I have a 1985 k1500 I don't know the carb I have on it its a 305 and I am getting bad mpg and I never did before but I can smell the gas when I decelerate and it started to sputter when I'm braking and when I turn it on it blows black smoke what do you think this could be
Ashley Marrone running rich
Scotty Kilmer, good vid but you left out how to check vacuum to and adjust if needed, the primary and secondary choke pull offs as well as the fine tune adjustment of the choke mechanism and choke step down idle speeds.
Ashley Marrone if it's blowing black smoke, you are burning lots of fuel. Try leaning it out.
Hi Scotty, I have an 1987 Toyota starlet. (engine is 2e-c) Which is difficult to start when it is cold. I suspect this is the automatic choke that failed. How can I fix it?
Scotty Kilmer is literally keeping my 86 Firebird Trans Am alive
He’s keeping my 90 Camaro alive
same w the 82 square body
89 ta here
After a few days I'm here for my 88 firebird 🤷
It’s crazy because I’m literally watching this video to try to get my 86 firebird I just got started
Scotty you’re a F’n life saver man, I’ve been tuning and adjusting my carburetor for months now man. Thank you for your service
It took you months to turn three screws?
They are not the easiest things to adjust. Good to know you’re such a smarty with carbs.
Edelbrocks are easy to tune and maintain. Quadrajet not so much, but it's a gas saver. Great video!
Heh, I remember doing this back in auto school and it was actually kinda fun and educational. The instructor had the engine plugged into a smog machine to read the gasses coming out and we had to adjust the carburetor so that the exhaust reach at or below state exhaust requirements.
Love this guys editing sometimes lol just cuts off
+Greig300 maybe it was the camera guy, didn't like scotty talkin' smack about new cars hgahah "CUT!"
ThisISETHANBRADBERRY! New cars will never give the same feel as the originals. Dodge is bringing back the barracudas in 2020, but if you look at the assumed photos, it's nothing like the cars that cruised with style through the 70s and 80s.
Really helps to use a vacuum gauge. Get it idling as low as it will without jerking around, plug the gauge into a fitting on the intake (manifold vacuum), then adjust mixture screws .5 turn outwards at a time for each (.5 on left, .5 on right, left, right, etc) until highest vacuum reading, and then adjust idle to 700-800rpm in park. Too high of idle and the car will slam into gear. Anymore than 900rpm and most older carbureted cars with their stock 1100-1500 stall converters will start to engage. Thats why it goes into gear really hard. Manual cars idle speed can be a bit higher or lower, measured in neutral, parkng brake set and wheels chocked. Find what your engine likes.
Good advice
that is if the car is automatic, manual transmission cars don't engage anything
This is a video on how to adjust the idle mixture and idle RPM. How about making a video on how to properly jet a carb, adjust the accelerator pump, and set the choke. Most peop leave no idea how to properly set up a carb for a new combination.
Thanks, Chris
shadowdog500 theres plenty of vids on that. not really scotty's cup of tea. he does quick vids
also most factory carbs only let you adjust the idle mixture, idle speed, and choke.
well that's pretty easy. Mainly you have 3 jets on a carb and in general you can say. One is for idle, the middle one is for normal driving and the main one the big one is for full throttle.
What you need is time and various jets at hand. At first of course let the car warm up, and for the idler jet you simply let the car idle for a certain period and then check the colour of the sparkplug
For the middle jet, you go on the freeway and drive it for about 1 hour with about 50% throttle. Now you can go by the colour of the sparkplug if you want clean emissions and low fuel consumption or you make several runs with different jets and find out when it got the highest speed.
The same should be done for the maine jet although a richer mixture is preferable
14725800369 instructions unclear. My carb is now lying on the freeway
Thank you so much! My car got repossessed recently and my only means of transportation to work is my 44 year old tank of a car. You have no idea how much I appreciate this!
Loved your video. Just bought a 66 mustang and I'm feeling it is time to tune the carb. Maybe even upgrade. I bought it about a week ago and I'm just getting started. I plan on getting a longer cam, headers, better hood with a scoop, and much more, including some major cosmetics. I hope by the end of the year, I will have a maroon and black pony with a mean engine to walk the walk. But I am glad I found your video to give me the official start to the restoration of my baddest dreams. God bless buddy. Give that stingray everything it wants. Lots of road and serious torque to leave its signature.
Good to see the Vette back!
Wow!! You went waaaaay back Scotty. I can't remember the last time I've seen someone adjust a carburetor. The ones on my 80's GM's had caps over the mixture screws and couldn't even be adjusted.
by the 80s they had sensors and computers that would adjust them automatically
Back when it was easy to adjust and fix anything.... Man I wish cars today could be easily fixed without needing a scan tool computer.
mclaine33 Do you also wish modern cars had worse fuel economy, didn't last as long, could be affected by small changes in fuel makeup, required more maintenance, and so on? I think its a fair trade off.
Gerberbaby922 Yeah fuel economy sucked but gas was very cheap. It isn't good for the environment though. Didn't last as long? Idk what you're talking about. I feel like many older cars were better build than todays cheapo junk parts that fall off or break (like bumpers made of plastic). More maintenance, yes sometimes, depending how often you drove. Overall it would be nice if cars today can be built just as well as older cars were. A really great example that I can say would be the Tesla Model S. That thing is very well engineered and I'm sure in the future that will become a "collectible or classic" too.
Gerberbaby922 What about SEFI & EEC, but pre OBD?
Gotta 5.0 Windsor ('86 Colony Park) which uses half the fuel compared to my old '63 Impala: 283 with Edelbrock AFB.
Not entirely fair, since the Merc has a 4 spd with lock-up, but I feel the improvements in maintenance aren't that big anymore between a 1986 panther and a 2012 one, and according to the EPA their carbon footprint is equal...
The best of both worlds perhaps?
mclaine33 it was common to get valve jobs done, idk about every 30,000. It was rare to get 200,000 miles out of a car. Also, the metal rusted easily.
mclaine33 man I wish cars still had 5.7 liters of displacement and only put out 170 horses lol. i drive an old carbed 350 sometimes but i have to admit that modern cars with vvt, efi, forced induction ect are pretty amazing. the new eco in my mustanf is putting out 390 ob ft and 335 hp from only 2.3 liters !!! im notbgetting the estimated epa mpg but thats probably because its so much fun to drive
I have almost the exact same car and was gonna waste almost 100 $ to get the carburetor adjusted now all I need to do is use a screwdriver thank you so much Scotty Kilmer you saved the day for me 👍
Christian Commanda
Watching your videos helped me fix my old truck. Great stuff!
Thanks so much for this. My 66' C10 was stumbling at idle it was so rich. Its much much better now
Thanks Scotty, worked like a charm on my '62 Caddy with an Edelbrock carb.
I love how you start on these massive rants but you edit it out.
Thank you, your videos are so helpful in my adventure with owning a 1990 jeep
you are a star, you make it as simple as possible as if you live in our heads.
And remember, since at least 1982 automakers such as GM went mostly to computer-controlled carbs with mapped ignition timing. You can only adjust the idle speed on most OEM computer carbs. For better performance, people had to change the intake manifold, fuel jetting and sometimes the PCM. Because of growing fuel economy and emissions standards, engine performance was sacrificed majorly from 1973-1987. Of course, the old school performance aftermarket exists for those yearning for simplicity. Replace and burn rubber.
Hi Scotty, glad to see that you started posting video after the great flood. Hope you and your family are doing OK ?
That was easy... I don’t think I’ll ever see a carbureted car but if I do, now I’ll know how to tune it up!
Now do a V12 with 6 double Webers. That's where the fun begins!
i rebuilt several carburetors in my time ! they are a lot easier to work on then fuel injection ! I had cars back in the 60s and 70s with carburetors started and ran better then cars today !
Lloyd Dailey tell that the emissions department
I just bought a 1972 datsun 521 so this video really helped!!!🙏🏽
I turn the mixture out/rich until it reaches the steady high rpm.
Then turn it back in slowly until the speed drops 50 rpm.
Readjust idle speed and repeat on other side.
The lean drop method will yield better results if you go offroad a lot or otherwise idle around in low gear like 4 wheeling.
Your videos are great I don’t know much when it comes to cars wish I would of payed more attention to my dad growing up but your videos help a lot haha.
Kilmer is a Superstar!
I had a 750cfm double pumper Holley on my bb 440 cu in with a 280 crane cam. I just Use a Vacuum/ pressure gauge to tune it. Ignition Timing has to be checked first before you tune the carburetor.
I learned the best way to adjust the carb is to attach a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and to ALWAYS make sure the fuel idle mixture screws are adjusted evenly 1/4-1/8 turns at a time, until the best vacuum is found. You just seemed to turn the screws willy nilly
Thank you for this video, after getting turned down by several “licensed mechanics” who apparently don’t work on carburetors, I got my 72 Jeep commando purring just right! Whatever anyone does, don’t come to Puerto Rico lmao!
I have a question man, what does scotty mean by saying "Bottoms Out" ? Thank you!
Doing this tomorrow on my 68 coupes brand new Rochester quadrajet. Just waiting on the divorced choke for my edelbrock manifold.
That's why I love my 87 dodge ram and 80 mustang had to do my first mechanical fuel pump on my truck last winter was under 20 bucks and under 30 minutes to change
These types of cars (carburated cars) is what Scotty seems to know more about than any other kind of cars
I never leave my mixture screws at highest idle. They are too close to a lean condition that way. For 45 years I have taught others to screw them out 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from high idle to allow for any contaminants that WILL get in the idle circuit. This of course is not how the EPA would like it but it allows more time until they need to be readjusted. The factory settings (in the 1970's)were slightly in from high idle and of course demanded readjustment in no time. I am surprised that others have not taken up the slightly rich practice as it works better for a longer time. Highest idle is not necessarily "perfect" as some would say if you have to keep readjusting them. In some states that unfortunately have smog tests I suppose you have to do it their way but not where I live. I have several cars with two four barrel carbs. and rarely have to adjust them.
Scotty you need your own TV show!!
You literally are saving me 1000 of dollars! Thxxx😭
You sir are a live saver
I have to admit that was a fast simple video on Edlebrock carburetors, My 69 Mustang has a Holley it looks pretty different
Scotty! Can u make a playlist strictly for Old school? 💯 🙏
Scotty for president 2020
Scotty for president 2024😅
Thanks Scotty. You've helped me a lot with my Saturn SLs, my Scout IIs, my Plymouth Acclaim and my girlfriend's Mitsubishi Montero. Living proof that you CAN fix stupid:-)
One serious pet peeve of mine is bad wiring jobs, especially on classic cars like this, like those black wires @1:22 ....but anyway, good video, thanks for sharing Scotty
Wow Actually I am from Sri Lanka and have a old Mitsubishi Lancer. Tried from many garages but no one can fix it for better tuning. But with your video I got my maximum level of fuel consumption. Thanks so much. Also if you have the chance do a video for ajusting Dialpham to have minimum sound from engine and also for maximum plug distribution. Again thank you very much 😈😎
I really love your videos! They're perfect! Funny and filled with instructions and info. Thanks for doing them! :D
Thank you so much my truck runs like it’s brand new again.
One of my favorite mechanics 🪛🧰
Finally, I get to see where the stingray came into play.
Hey Scotty , big fan here. Can you please make a video on how to clean the carburator? My car is on ventilator
Great help for me. Thanks for posting this. 🇨🇦👍🏼
definitely need more videos like this I have a 85 Chevrolet celebrity 2.8 2 barrel carburetor but it's a Rochester carb I wish u had video of something like that or close or just more videos of carburetor vehicles it would help. And love all of your videos been subscribed and watching for a long time your videos have really helped
As a car mechanic i approve! :D
Not but seriously I do like injector engines as well.
Good luck, you are a very good person
you are a professional mr.scott.
good job.
Peace.
thank you man this rlly helps
Scotty, this is clearly the Corvette from your intro. Is it yours? Do you still have it? Do you drive it when it's warm outside? I just love the sound of these old, carburated V8 engines.... (we don't have many of those here in Europe)
I just started tinkering with the carb on my VW. i think you have to have a good ear for these things .-.
What about the choke, metering rods, springs? I like the ease of adjusting the edelbrock carbs compared to holley
Thanks scotty, my 650 holley on my 305 is 1600 at park or nuetral and 700 in drive.
Is this a good idle setting for this motor?
Should be at 900-1000 rpm’s
Thanks sir. Very helpful.
thanks for all your great videos wish you were my mechanic
Scotty saving the day 5 years later
Just put a carb on my 66 falcon
Scotty, you're the man!
highest vacuum at idle is the ultimate setting
K exatimundo!
Why what's the benefits?
Correct fuel/air ratio
+bicylindrico oh serious? Hmm gonna have to look into that
you should have done that some decades ago
The throttle return spring is a mess - should be doubled and hooked into the proper hole.
- Connect a timing light with tach, plug vacuum advance hose to eliminate it during tuning. Ground idle stop switch. Set warm curb idle to recommended speed, usually 650 - 750 RPM.
- Assuming timing is correct, shut car off and gently seat idle mixture screws. Right is richer, left is leaner.
- Carefully and evenly back out mixture screws 2.5 turns. This is a very common baseline setting with OEM carbs.
- Connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum. Start the car, and slowly but evenly back out the mixture screws to a point where manifold vacuum just starts to drop. Turn each screw in a quarter turn from that point. Check and readjust curb idle.
- if turning the screws out (leaner) doesn't affect vacuum, you've got a vacuum leak someplace. Check hoses, intake, and carb, and repair.
- Most aftermarket carbs are set up quite rich. That's only fine if your car never sees the street. Otherwise, you need to rejet to prevent unburned fuel from washing down the cylinder walls.
- You set the choke, per mfr instructions, when the engine is cold. Don't forget to adjust the fast idle speed - 1200 RPM is fine on a street engine.
- Hook 'er all back up and try it out. If the engine wants to die when warm, while putting it in gear, it wants a little more timing. If it falls on its face during normal acceleration, check the accelerator pump/setting. If it bogs when kicking it down, you need to adjust the secondary air door tension.
Hero! Here to tune my Audi 80 ^^^
Hey Scott !! Could you possibly do a video on possible causes of a misfire in your system?
You are legendary 💪
Would you be able to do a video on how one uses a vacuum gauge or does this work best
Ok so I've got this 82 corolla, it rattles a bit like a diesel under load or when going up hills but when you pull the choke out, the rattle stops completely and it's nice & quiet. Plus this rattling thing only happens when it's fully warmed up.
As a single engine piston pilot, I've always wondered why auto makers never opted to include a mixture knob? Would it be ineffective due to the constant change of engine power being demanded (start, accelerating, stopping, etc.)?
Just a guess but I'd think that air is regulated by the throttle (gas pedal to throttle body) and fuel is regulated via engine load/ vacuum. It seems to me that a mixture knob would be redundant but perhaps I'm missing something?
Go Scotty go!!!
I had to pause at 00:19
And appreciate that come up
Make a video on how to adjust ignition timing
Can you say please? Lmao
Right on! Thank you for making it a breeze!
Thx a lot mate! Big help!
FINALLY!! Btw, as soon as you revved it a bit after finishing the adjustments, it didn't sound that good... As soon as you opened the throttle, but before it got to higher RPM's.
Arthur Sperotto realize the gas tank had to be replaced on this thing, which happened later on. Rust was clogging up even the new carb.
Scotty Kilmer For such a stock engine, you's be better off with a dual plane manifold. Single planes manifolds are generally reserved for high rpm motors.
Thanks for info in this video...its useful
So, the final step is adjusting the idling. How does this relate to adjusting the timing and turning the distributor left or right? Which one is tuned/completed first?
Now I can adjust the carburetor on my 2021 Honda Civic
Thinking of getting a 1971 thunderbird (has the 429 cu Ford with 4 barrel carb) as my second car, the car only needs a paint job and a door lock according to the original owner
+Alex Raskalove realize that's when ford quality was at a low point, don't pay much for one because they are not really collector's items and aren't worth much
Thx;everything you stated worked!!!
Hi Scotty, I have corolla 1.3 of 1998 with carburettor engine. My engine rpm raises high on AC even after lowering the screw
love your videos +scottykilmer
efi is good but what a pain to work on , carburators can be efficient if you know how to dial them in correctly, the Carter afb in my chrysler 413 averaged better fuel milage than my dodge ram 1500 with a 5.9
Hey Scotty, been watching your videos for some time, great work by the way, and i was wondering if you have or could do a carburetor cleaning video, I have a 1994 nissan sentra carburated, and I'm not sure if it needs cleaning. Keep up the good work.
thanks for all he help and ideals, question for you - i have a 1980 corvette with that same carburetor - cant keep ideal very well - i had never noticed if there was a spring or something on the other side for the choke? there are a couple holes over there that seems might be to keep in place or adjust ?? wondering if had any ideals on that. Thanks again
I almost skipped this video cause the chances of me owning a vehicle with a carb are pretty slim these days.. but, I couldn't do it. Just had to watch it.
James Zawacki I just like watching Scotty do things.
Why do you say your chances are slim? Theres still plenty out there if you look.
Scotty which is better for todays car carburator or efi
Don't try this at home, but I've cut trees and made sure they fell the direction I wanted by tying a rope to the tree and my pickups back bumper and a slightly longer chain to the future stump and my bumper, then I tighten the idle screw to around 1200rpm and put the truck in drive, it pulled the tree and then the stump and chain kept the truck from running away
Love having a carb. So easy to mess with
Thanks for the tip going to try it out on my 69 chevelle
That's why they make a vacuum gauge,to get the best results for the carburetor settings and the highest vacuum reading for the engine to perform to its best. Just using a screw driver,one it is the lazy way,and two,you can't depend on the vehicle running the the best,or max performance.DUH,Have a nice day......
thank god, needed to tune it cause it overheating after about 10 minutes and can't risk blowing this car too
I just bought a mint 1989 Honda Accord LX that has an idle issue. Vacuum lines are all good. My next step is tuning the Carb. Could you give me some pointers?
Engines do run less lumpy if the idle is set right.
Don't adjust the "idle screw" if you have a vacuum advance distributor. it's wrongly named and actually adjusts your tranfer slots that controls when the distributor gets vacuum and starts advancing timing. If this is set wrong it will throw off your timing and most people confuse a timing issue for a carburetor issue and chase down a rabbit hole that leads no where. The transfer slots should be adjusted so the moment you touch the throttle it begins sending vacuum to your distributor. Furthermore proper idle RPM is set with a distributor adjustment not a carburetor adjustment assuming your mixture is correct.
I'm not mechanically inclined but have been learning a few things after I met with a mechanic after I had issues with acceleration and starting once in a while. He wants to put a Edelbrock carburetor in my '79 Trans Am with 403 instead of rebuilding the Quadrajet. He says it would be smarter and much better and he would've done it a long time ago if it was his car. Car group friends are advising me not to. What do you think?
you the man Scotty, thanks :D