I watch a lot of G channels cause i got mine not to long ago, and you are the most pertinent straight to the point, side facts that can considerably help if you want etc great edits subtitles and concise. Thank you sir I literally searched for 30 mins to find THIS bleed video 🔥❤️ just put the mishi rad in 😤
I wasted a whole weekend trying to bleed my 350 per the service manual and youtube videos and this is what did the trick for me. Like this video, use a spill free funnel on the radiator and open the bleeder screw. Fill the funnel until coolant comes out the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Keep filling the funnel until the coolant level in the funnel about 1/3 to 1/2 full. Do not fill too much as the level will rise and could overflow. Crank the car and let it idle until it reaches normal operating temp (temp gauge needle about halfway). Now here's what i did different after struggling for two days. Turn the heat on low, NOT full blast. In my mind, the heater core and your dash blower fan act like a mini radiator. The higher your dash blower fan is running, the more its cooling the engine. You MUST still turn the heat on though so it tells the system to circulate coolant through the heater core in your dash, just keep it on low. Also, DO NOT run the AC compressor. This will immediately turn your radiator fans on making it harder for your engine to get hot. The goal is to get your engine hot enough to open the thermostat. Use your hands with a glove or rag to feel the temperature of the lower radiator hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator. WARNING, IT MAY BE HOT! If the lower radiator hose isnt hot, the thermostat is not or did not open. Mine was ice cold even after revving to 3k rpm for 10 seconds a few times per the service manual. Instead, hold the throttle at 2000 RPM sustained for 1-2 minutes and watch the temperature gauge to make sure it doesn't start to overheat. The gauge should stay at halfway or below. While doing this, tons of bubbles started coming up. I did this a few times and then checked the temperature of the lower radiator hose, it was nice and hot which told me the thermostat was opening hence all the bubbles. The air coming out of my vents in the car also started to get hot and stay hot even when running at idle. Keep topping off the funnel so it stays at approx the halfway mark, never let it get empty. After a few more 1 minute sustained 2k RPM sessions, i saw no more bubbles and my cabin heat was blowing hot at idle. Turn the car off and let it sit for a couple hours so as the engine cools down it sucks in more coolant. Remove the funnel, put the radiator cap on, and you are done. Might need a new thermostat soon but maybe my system has a high tolerance for heat or runs cooler than average. These cars are finnicky. Hopefully this is helpful for other people having trouble and you dont waste a whole weekend like I did because my engine wasnt getting hot enough. Edit: The key here is if the lower radiator hose isn't getting hot using the nissan service manual technique of 3k RPMs in 10 second bursts, you need to generate more heat so the thermostat opens.
😢 i have problem with overheating after coolant flush Turn on heater and it is blowing hot air I waited until radiator fan came on then turned off the heater with the engine still on and the god damn coolant was overflowing 😢 Ive tried again this time i didnt turn off the heater after 15min i put the radiator cap back on then i revved abit then the dash temp was raising to Hot 😢😢😢😢 Everything was working fine until i decided to do a flush my dad gonna whoop my ass
Dude!! Thanks so much for this comment! This, along with the video made it easy to bleed my system in no time. No more overheating, and the G is once again fun to drive. 👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏻
Today one of my water hoses broke, it let all the water out of the radiator, i replaced the hose and refill the coolant and it kept overheating, and it never had issues overheating before so i was wondering if the thermostat broke i was going to replace it until i watched this video. I bled the system and it did the trick. No more overheating. Saved me some time and money. Thank You sir. This video save my butt.
Nice work! I didn't buy the special overflow filler. I filled the radiator until full with the air bleed valve opened. Closed it all up and started the car for a minute. Shut it down, refilled it again. Repeated 3 times. After driving the car for 10 miles on the freeway, the car's heating system was working properly again.
Thank you I was looking for one of these that someone didn’t use the filler because I have to do mine tomorrow and I don’t have one so I wanted to know how you do it without that
Best video on how to bleed the 350 engine I've watched... particularly the detail where you discussed the correct screwdriver required... Watched another clip n it was so vague... I'm trying to help a female friend out while 150km away from the car, so it's great to know exactly what tool was required for the bleed screw.... much appreciated 🙏.... hope you build your channel, as you're great at describing the sequence of events.
My comment is and what the time is about 5:30 in the evening but my comment is this man told me a lot help me very much I appreciate his time and his knowledge thank you again
Thank you for these DYI videos man! I’m not much of a mechanic but when I watch your videos it sure gives me knowledge and confidence to work on my own car. I also have a 06 rev up 350z and we pretty much have almost same bolt ons. I’m getting Uprev tuned tomorrow as we speak. As for the meantime take care and stay safe bro!
That's so awesome to hear! I glad to the videos are able to help you out. Comment back here after the dyno tune is done. Who's doing the tune? And remember, it's not about the number on paper after, it's about the engine being calibrated properly and the car driving better overall.
AnthonyJ350 don’t worry I won’t have my hopes up. With your previous video you already talked about this so I know what I’m getting myself into. After all those bolt on it’s a good peace of mind to know your a/f ratio is good and to keep the reliably of your engine. My car only has 74k miles and it’s going to be my daily. I’m going thru “intec racing” local shop for the tune. Did you notice a drastic change in power after the tune?
@@AnthonyJ350 Need help with a g35. Got no heat when at idle. It can set and idle all day and never get hot but it over heats almost immediately after I start to drive.
@@AnthonyJ350 hey I have a question? I have a 06 Nissan and I’m trying to bleed it the same process as you but I have not turned it on for a long time. The battery died and it was replaced with a new one. I drained the old fluid but now I’m in a dilemma about the bleeding. Do I input the new coolant and wait for the car to warm up since it hasn’t been turned on for awhile and continue the bleeding or do i do the bleeding right after it’s turned on with the funnel?
Great Video! Its how i bleed my FX35... but the best part is, when the thermostat opened and some bubbles started tocome out, some mechanics will show that to some drivers and tell them they have a blown head gasket!
@@AnthonyJ350 Hi. Well, finally managed to bleed the system. Didn't have a spill free funnel (but will be getting one). Slowly topped the fluid up and ran the engine with the rad cap off, the bleed screw open and heating controls on to max. Expansion tank at max level. Had some spillage as the air came out (I use kids nappies to soak up, so spillage contained). Revved the engine to a steady 2500 rpm for 10 secs. Did this a couple of time then turned off. Left to cool down. Fluid sucked out of expansion tank. Left overnight with rad cap off. Next day checked all levels and repeated cycle. Less spillage this time. Left overnight again. Topped up fluid directly through the bleed valve. Repeated again the next day and took the car for a run. Hot air from heater and car temp normal. I would say that the above method is certainly fussy and takes longer than your method with the funnel. What your video helped me with was the general approach and importantly the confidence to take my time, have patience and knowing you'll get there in the end.
Mine doesn’t have a bleeder it had a factory piece of crappy plastic that literally disintegrated when i touched it i replaced it with an aluminum sleeve i was going to install a bleeder but since it didn’t come with it i didn’t
Hey great video! Was just wondering when you know when to stop repeating the process? When the coolant level in the funnel stops going down or when the car is blowing out hot air? Thanks! :)
I really need to change mine. Ive never done it in the 8 years of owning and i really doubt any of the previous owners did. Plus itll give me an excuse to upgrade the hoses to silicone or braided and get a nismo tstat lol
I had been at it for about 45 min got scared and turned it off. I was going to just drain it all out and start over. It was bubbling like it was running hot but the temp didn’t rise up so that’s ok? I guess it’s cool now and I will try it again maybe attach a video so you can see thanks
my original comment: my fans turned on but the funnel overflowed, i turned it off and the coolant in the funnel went back down, what should I do? The upper radiator hose is hot and the lower one is cold. My solution: new thermostat. I took my old one out, put it in boiling water and noticed it didnt open until the water got REALLY hot. Get oem. I had mine replaced 7 months ago with a non oem one and it failed. Last week. If you follow the video step by step you will be good! Thank you!
Just put in a new radiator so 😢i hope this works it may be ny thermostat ...my fan working & its atill rising past the middle mark in the dash do i fill it 1st or do i bleed it during redilling of lost coolant during the abstraion of the radiator?
Open the bleeder and fill the radiator till it pours out. Is the front end elevated when you do this? Make sure you secure with jack stands and secure the rear wheels with the parking brake on please 🙂
When you say you let it cool down a couple times does that mean you turned the car off and back on or just slightly opened the bleeder valve while still on?
I notice in the center behind the engine and in front of it their are a few hole in the middle you happen to know what they are for or can I cover them up?
@@AnthonyJ350 it's definitely a permanent fix. Plastic and hot pressure don't last very long. The oem bleeder is a catastrophic fail and difficult to detect when you get overheat issues. Misdiagnosed a working thermostat is a waste of money.
Can I still do this bleeding process after I already filled up my new radiator with coolant? Or do I need to start all the way over and flush the coolant from the radiator since I didn't bleed it?
I got a question I open the air bleeder valve then the radiator cap I didn’t have a free spill funnel but had a regular one I added antifreeze slowly less than 2qts per minute once I see antifreeze dripping out of bleeder valve I close bleeder valve and radiator cap fill the coolant tank start the engine let it get to normal temperature turn the heater on (it started to blow hot hair after the 3rd time of repeating this process) rev the engine to 3k rpm hold it for 10 sec 2 or 3 times turn off the car let it cool down once engine is cold open bleeder valve check for coolant and if coolant level no more longer drops to ur done is this process right? I already did this for 7 times can’t see the coolant level on bleeder valve to stop dropping I took it to a drive to see(car was blowing cold and then hot it did overheat than I waited the whole night this the same process one more time air was blowing full hot after rev the engine went to work drove it on freeway (20 min) and it didn’t overheat and was blowing hot hair I got off of work 7 hours later and start the car the heater wasn’t blowing hot compared to the morning I didn’t want it ti drive it like that so I did the same proces add coolant until spills out of bleeder valve rev it to 3k rpm and started to blow full hot air drove it home everything cool no overheating nothing should I keep doing the same process until I open the bleeder valve until coolant no more longer drops of level or should I just try how you did on this video with the free spill funnel without having to install radiator cap while car is on and I rev it to 2.5k 3k rpm
I believe it's the coolant itself. When I researched silicon it's a little porous technically. Maybe the coolant tries to push through when under pressure and as it cools down that happens. Not really sure.
AnthonyJ350 I’ve done it like six times and no luck we’ve replaced water pump and thermostat and no luck so now we’re looking at the heater core we did a head gasket leak kit and it said that our head gasket is good
It overheat when I drive but when in park or neutral( I know it’s an auto I wish it was manual but it is my first car and it’s all I could afford) I can even rev it neutral or park and it doesn’t overheat but when I drive it take like 5 minutes to overheat
Hey man recently my g started to overheat and I added some coolant then I noticed my hot air wasn’t working I’m fixing to do this to see if it works however would my very first step to this prior to jacking it up be drain all the coolant from the radiator?
@@kristianst45 Measure the heat of the upper and lower rad hoses on the radiator when you get to operating temperature. If working correctly they should be similar in temperature.
So when I rev up to 2500 a few times and let it idle, then I shut the engine off. Will I just leave it with the funnel or put the radiator cap back on until it’s completely cooled off?
I have done this countless times and it’s not working new thermostat too.But what i do is open radiator cap open bleeder valvue then poor in coolant but it never reaches the top of the bleeder valvue.and then it’s doesn’t overheat when i rev it. i drive it for 15 min all is fine then overheats
Scenario was ; bleeder line broke, spillled coolant. Addeded coolant as you said, yet during procedure the hvac doesn’t want to pump put hot air. is that normal? It was fine before the ruptured coolant line
Quick question do the low speed radiator fans need to come on when you start the car? My car is over heating and the radiator fans don't turn on at all even with ac turned on. I did a self check and only high speed setting kicks on..
I drained my g35 and it’s only holding 1 gallon of coolant is that normal? I drained it with the hose by the radiator drain because I could get the drain plug off without stripping it
Hey man could you help me out? 05 g35x 103k Problem: Coolant hovers around 210-215 during cool days while driving. Fans stay on high for long periods of time. The problem was occurring before any work was done but I’ve gotten the thermostat, and coolant temp sensor replaced, coolant flushed, and bled a couple times. I just bled it today for a little over 2hrs. I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. I have constant hot heat and cold ac. Maybe just needs to be bleed more? Can a very small amount of air cause constant higher then normal coolant temps? Any help/advise would be much appreciated!!!
@@AnthonyJ350 I have another problem when doing an coolant bleed, once the car gets to operating temperature the coolant in the no spill funnel starts getting pushed out and splashing everywhere, I believe by air. Any idea of what could it be?
@@AnthonyJ350 I only fill it at the bottom because it might get high when doing so which it does and I take some of it out before it gets too high, but even after that it still does it. Maybe I should just take it to a mechanic and see what they say.
when bleeding the system, should the coolant reservoir be empty? My car started overheating and I saw my reservoir was empty. I filled it up but soon realized that my bleeder valve exploded
I'm not getting hot air blowing in the car when I do this. Any ideas of what's keeping it from cycling properly? Also, I notice that while adding coolant to the funnel the reservoir fills and starts leaking fluid out of an overflow spout at the top of the reservoir, causing coolant to spill all over the ground. Should this happen?
@@illest_evr y’all ever figured out why same thing is happening to me I followed the video step by step. I didn’t replace my thermostat could that be a reason why?
It seems like my thermostat isn’t gettin coolant the tubes pretty cold when the other tube is hot , could use some help trouble shooting everything was working perfect 2 days ago just got a radiator and new thermostat so I know it’s not bad just air in system
@@AnthonyJ350 yes it’s new but I made bit more progress with it, heat is reliably working now and fans kick on still, lower radiator hose to thermostat is still ice cold tho although t-stat itself feels warm
Quick question I’m doing the procedure now and had the car elevated… filled it up with coolant until it came out the bleeder valve at the top, I began to add more coolant to fill the funnel 1/3 of the way as described in the video but the coolant continuously flowed downward into the engine and began to fill the coolant revisor passed the Max line. Did I miss a step or do I do the procedure with the coolant resivor full?
@@AnthonyJ350 no runs good I’ll just wait until the summer it gets up to 120 degrees where I live I’ll be installing mishimoto radiator and hoses soon thanks for the reply
I have a question recently I had the same issue with my car about one of my hoses popped and I replaced it and also bought the new thermostat and I did the burping method but it’s kinda still over heats a lil wen I have my AC ON and wen I come to a complete stop to wait tell the light turns green. Than when I start to drive it goes back to normal is it because I still have air trapped in my motor? And do you have to do the revving part to help it out more or you don’t have to do it. I have a g37 sedan. Should I do that revving at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds. Any advice would be great🙏🏼💯
Sounds like you still have air in the system. Revving it once in a while during the bleeding procedure does seem to help. Just follow the video and have the front end elevated safely to get the air out.
@@AnthonyJ350 i will today I did the bleeding method and i have a question how long does it take for the air to come out of the motor can it take days or so? Because today I was doing it all day and it kept throwing air bubbles only a lil bet. So I took it for a spin and it kept overheating when I come to a complete stop. Do I have to wait tell there’s No air bubbles at all. And also I had the car on the driveway since it goes up a Little so thought that would help with the burping. Does the front of the car has to be pretty high in order to take out all the air bubbles out of the motor.
@@fernandopimentel6577 I also have the front end lifted where I can put jack stands underneath. These cars are a pain to bleed. It takes me about 45 min including cooling cycles.
@@AnthonyJ350 hey thanks. So I’m not certain but mine doesn’t have a bleeder. And I got the job done last night thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to help the people
@@AnthonyJ350 ok, last question, is it ok to open the bleeder screw while I have the lisle funnel on the radiator, to check if I have air bubles after first initial fill? Doing the job as wee speak, just finished the thermostat now im bouta bleed and fill the system.
Hey man,old video but maybe you can help..whenbi have my z idleling and rev to 3000 and my issue is after the car gets hot it spits all the new coolant out from no spill funnell,the funnell will fill up and then overflow and leak everywhere. .why is it spitting back after a while .I thought i was good my heay was working and all was good i was about to stop and call it a day n go for a ride but before i could go out and remive the funnel i noticed it filled the funnell to top and never syoped just keep pouring anitifreeze
Need help with a g35. Got no heat when at idle. It can set and idle all day and never get hot but it over heats almost immediately after I start to drive. I put in a new thermostat and replaced the bleeder valve but I just cant seem to get it right again. Any help would be appreciated.
@@AnthonyJ350 No I got to get a funnel like that one. I changed the thermostat and now it will set and idle literally all day long but you cant drive it 50 yards without it getting hot. My heat dosent work unless you're driving anymore. It's running fine theres no oil in the water I'm not losing coolant. I just cant figure it out. I love my car and cant really afford to take it into a shop right now with having spent a bit to much on my kids for Christmas and I'm just looking for any help with diagnosing the problem. I appreciate your time.
@@youtubebannedme4207 Did you bleed the system with the car's nose in the air? It takes me easily 45 min to do the procedure, so it's not exactly fast.
Not necessarily, the best way to quickly check the thermostat is to make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses feel like the same temperature safely. Also is your temperature gauge fluctuating?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes , I notice that the temp gauge go up and down as I drive cruising on the freeway, I’m thinking it’s either the thermostat or the water pump but the water pump shows no indication of a leak or any excess noise coming from the engine bay. I’m going to check the radiator hoses tomorrow to see if there is a big temp difference.
@@AnthonyJ350 also there’s no leaks coming from the car and I haven’t removed or added coolant and so I know there shouldn’t be air in the system and the radiator cap isn’t cracked or broken and neither is the radiator hoses not sure if that helps narrow it down
@@AnthonyJ350 the temperature goes down while I’m on the freeway about 3/4 of the way to Hot and when I’m in the streets it just goes up until it overheats
I bought a low milage 04 that was well maintained with lots of records so I wouldn't have to do much.... oh boy I was wrong 😂. It was good for 6000km. Ended up having to fix the boot hole seals because oil was leaking in the wells. Instead of buying new covers I took the old ones off, kept the boot hole gaskets but just put a nice layer of black rtv on them. Grabbed new valve gaskets well I was at it. It ruined one the coils so I bought 6 new along with plugs. So far 20,000km later no oil in wells 😂😁. Now i have the joys of doing the differential bushings since I saw black leaking out 😟. Did the rotors and a bleed ahwile back. It's always something with these cars lol. There good cars though, bullet proof I've beat the living shit out of it the past 4 years no major issues.
I agree they are good cars. They're at that age where wearable items and rubber parts are going to degrade. My 2005 Silverado went through the same thing, spent 3 year rebuilding it with better parts as parts would wear out. Now the vehicle drives awesome and Im spending very little money. At least with repairs like that you can upgrade. Newer cars this seems to be getting harder to do.
Hey man, great video. Ive been chasing this issue for awhile. Evidently overheating (or fooled temp sensor due to air bubbles) is common? I feel like ive been bleeding air for a while. I usually did 5 minutes of bleeding maybe once every few months before i notice the temp needle creeping a little higher than normal. Perhaps im not doing it long enough? It seems after a bleed im good to go for a while but would like to not worry about it anymore. I wonder if air is being introduced into the system somehow. Thoughts?
I have been trying to bleed the system but every time I start to get heat when I rev it the heat goes away once I stop also the aluminum radiator I installed starts to get hot any suggestions?
@@AnthonyJ350 II wasn’t using the bleeder valve enough like you did in the video I eventually got it bleed all the way just took a lot longer than expected this video helped a lot
I've got a question that doesn't pertain to this particular subject.. but, my Z makes a pretty awful burning smell at high RPMs. It won't do it any other time, only at higher RPMs, near 5000 usually. Someone told me it could be loose oil sump bolts and the pressure is causing it to leak out and burn? I don't think that sounds right but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere I go. You seem like a knowledgeable guy. Also for reference my Z is the 04 Touring model
When was the last time the PCV valve was changed? Also check the vacuum tube that goes from the intake tube to the motor. Does the vehicle have a breather PCV delete?
@@AnthonyJ350 yup, literally followed your video step by step. Im thinking its my thermostat because bottom radiator hose is cold and the top one is hot
Had my bleeder valve explode on the road. The car really only over heats only when driven. I haven't got a new valve yet, and just connected the two lines together via a plastic tube the same diameter of the bleeder. I bled the system with a funnel, and it still overheats. What am I missing? Do I REALLY need that valve, or do I have a possible head gasket issue?
@@AnthonyJ350 ok. Ill give it another try. I did notice the vehicle was completely out of oil. I wonder if this would contribute to the car only over heating while being driven, not while idle
@@amaterasu8829 Yes, oil lubricates and can act as a heat exchanger with an oil cooler. This video may help as well th-cam.com/video/1Yrlq285UHY/w-d-xo.html
I watch a lot of G channels cause i got mine not to long ago, and you are the most pertinent straight to the point, side facts that can considerably help if you want etc great edits subtitles and concise. Thank you sir I literally searched for 30 mins to find THIS bleed video 🔥❤️ just put the mishi rad in 😤
Thanks so much for the feedback! A lot of my videos will work for the G35 and I have some stereo videos for the G35 as well.
I wasted a whole weekend trying to bleed my 350 per the service manual and youtube videos and this is what did the trick for me. Like this video, use a spill free funnel on the radiator and open the bleeder screw. Fill the funnel until coolant comes out the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Keep filling the funnel until the coolant level in the funnel about 1/3 to 1/2 full. Do not fill too much as the level will rise and could overflow.
Crank the car and let it idle until it reaches normal operating temp (temp gauge needle about halfway). Now here's what i did different after struggling for two days. Turn the heat on low, NOT full blast. In my mind, the heater core and your dash blower fan act like a mini radiator. The higher your dash blower fan is running, the more its cooling the engine. You MUST still turn the heat on though so it tells the system to circulate coolant through the heater core in your dash, just keep it on low. Also, DO NOT run the AC compressor. This will immediately turn your radiator fans on making it harder for your engine to get hot. The goal is to get your engine hot enough to open the thermostat.
Use your hands with a glove or rag to feel the temperature of the lower radiator hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator. WARNING, IT MAY BE HOT! If the lower radiator hose isnt hot, the thermostat is not or did not open. Mine was ice cold even after revving to 3k rpm for 10 seconds a few times per the service manual. Instead, hold the throttle at 2000 RPM sustained for 1-2 minutes and watch the temperature gauge to make sure it doesn't start to overheat. The gauge should stay at halfway or below. While doing this, tons of bubbles started coming up. I did this a few times and then checked the temperature of the lower radiator hose, it was nice and hot which told me the thermostat was opening hence all the bubbles. The air coming out of my vents in the car also started to get hot and stay hot even when running at idle. Keep topping off the funnel so it stays at approx the halfway mark, never let it get empty. After a few more 1 minute sustained 2k RPM sessions, i saw no more bubbles and my cabin heat was blowing hot at idle.
Turn the car off and let it sit for a couple hours so as the engine cools down it sucks in more coolant. Remove the funnel, put the radiator cap on, and you are done. Might need a new thermostat soon but maybe my system has a high tolerance for heat or runs cooler than average. These cars are finnicky. Hopefully this is helpful for other people having trouble and you dont waste a whole weekend like I did because my engine wasnt getting hot enough.
Edit: The key here is if the lower radiator hose isn't getting hot using the nissan service manual technique of 3k RPMs in 10 second bursts, you need to generate more heat so the thermostat opens.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
😢 i have problem with overheating after coolant flush
Turn on heater and it is blowing hot air
I waited until radiator fan came on then turned off the heater with the engine still on and the god damn coolant was overflowing 😢
Ive tried again this time i didnt turn off the heater after 15min i put the radiator cap back on then i revved abit then the dash temp was raising to Hot 😢😢😢😢
Everything was working fine until i decided to do a flush my dad gonna whoop my ass
Dude!! Thanks so much for this comment! This, along with the video made it easy to bleed my system in no time. No more overheating, and the G is once again fun to drive. 👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏻
@@SchizoAction No problem! Glad it helped!
@@hubsun700 did you get your ass whooped 😢
Today one of my water hoses broke, it let all the water out of the radiator, i replaced the hose and refill the coolant and it kept overheating, and it never had issues overheating before so i was wondering if the thermostat broke i was going to replace it until i watched this video. I bled the system and it did the trick. No more overheating. Saved me some time and money. Thank You sir. This video save my butt.
Glad to hear the video helped you 🙂
Nice work! I didn't buy the special overflow filler. I filled the radiator until full with the air bleed valve opened. Closed it all up and started the car for a minute. Shut it down, refilled it again. Repeated 3 times. After driving the car for 10 miles on the freeway, the car's heating system was working properly again.
Thank you I was looking for one of these that someone didn’t use the filler because I have to do mine tomorrow and I don’t have one so I wanted to know how you do it without that
Thanks for sharing
how did this hold up? having trouble even with the funnel kit
Hey man when you did it did you take of the radiator cap will bleeding it or did you close it aswell ?
@@mynameiswhat960 use a radiator funnel bleeding kit from harbor freight or autozone itll help alot bro
Best video on how to bleed the 350 engine I've watched... particularly the detail where you discussed the correct screwdriver required... Watched another clip n it was so vague... I'm trying to help a female friend out while 150km away from the car, so it's great to know exactly what tool was required for the bleed screw.... much appreciated 🙏.... hope you build your channel, as you're great at describing the sequence of events.
So glad to hear the video helped! Are you scoring points by helping out??? 😉
stripped my bleeder screw out so i gotta replace the whole thing:/ can’t get it out
My comment is and what the time is about 5:30 in the evening but my comment is this man told me a lot help me very much I appreciate his time and his knowledge thank you again
Thank you for watching!
You have literally been reading my mind with the last couple videos of the z you’ve been posting ! Keep up the great content brotha
Awesome! I plan to change out the cam sensors soon and hopefully swap out the radiator before summer. Stay tuned!
I guess Im pretty randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to stream newly released tv shows online?
@Demetrius Abel i use FlixZone. Just search on google for it =)
@Demetrius Abel I use Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
2008 Infiniti M35S...just watched your video...followed your video...worked perfectly. Replaced with OEM thermostat. Thanks!!!!
That's awesome! Glad to hear it worked for you 🙂
I was having trouble with this until I watched your video - very thorough - very relevant - very grateful - thanks!
So glad to hear the video helped you!
Thank you for these DYI videos man! I’m not much of a mechanic but when I watch your videos it sure gives me knowledge and confidence to work on my own car. I also have a 06 rev up 350z and we pretty much have almost same bolt ons. I’m getting Uprev tuned tomorrow as we speak. As for the meantime take care and stay safe bro!
That's so awesome to hear! I glad to the videos are able to help you out. Comment back here after the dyno tune is done. Who's doing the tune?
And remember, it's not about the number on paper after, it's about the engine being calibrated properly and the car driving better overall.
AnthonyJ350 don’t worry I won’t have my hopes up. With your previous video you already talked about this so I know what I’m getting myself into. After all those bolt on it’s a good peace of mind to know your a/f ratio is good and to keep the reliably of your engine. My car only has 74k miles and it’s going to be my daily. I’m going thru “intec racing” local shop for the tune. Did you notice a drastic change in power after the tune?
@@AnthonyJ350
Need help with a g35. Got no heat when at idle. It can set and idle all day and never get hot but it over heats almost immediately after I start to drive.
@@AnthonyJ350 hey I have a question? I have a 06 Nissan and I’m trying to bleed it the same process as you but I have not turned it on for a long time. The battery died and it was replaced with a new one. I drained the old fluid but now I’m in a dilemma about the bleeding. Do I input the new coolant and wait for the car to warm up since it hasn’t been turned on for awhile and continue the bleeding or do i do the bleeding right after it’s turned on with the funnel?
Thanks for this. 4 years later and still useful.
Glad to hear it helped you!
Great Video! Its how i bleed my FX35... but the best part is, when the thermostat opened and some bubbles started tocome out, some mechanics will show that to some drivers and tell them they have a blown head gasket!
Glad the video helped! Unfortunately there are shops that have shady business practices.
Don't need to do this but still watch it lol 👌
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
Thanks for the tutorial, this fixed my over heating, running high temperature issue.
Glad the video helped!
Hi. Watching this from the UK. Just fitted silicone radiator and crossover hoses. Will be refilling and bleeding so this is a great help. Thanks
Let us know how it worked out for you! Remember bleeding the cooling system might take up to 45 min including cool down time.
Bleeding the system is a necessary step for installing a new radiator just asking Becuase I’m installing a Koyo next week when it comes in.
@@AnthonyJ350 Hi. Well, finally managed to bleed the system. Didn't have a spill free funnel (but will be getting one). Slowly topped the fluid up and ran the engine with the rad cap off, the bleed screw open and heating controls on to max. Expansion tank at max level. Had some spillage as the air came out (I use kids nappies to soak up, so spillage contained). Revved the engine to a steady 2500 rpm for 10 secs. Did this a couple of time then turned off. Left to cool down. Fluid sucked out of expansion tank. Left overnight with rad cap off.
Next day checked all levels and repeated cycle. Less spillage this time. Left overnight again. Topped up fluid directly through the bleed valve. Repeated again the next day and took the car for a run. Hot air from heater and car temp normal. I would say that the above method is certainly fussy and takes longer than your method with the funnel. What your video helped me with was the general approach and importantly the confidence to take my time, have patience and knowing you'll get there in the end.
Many thanks
@@neilmorris4160 Great job! That's the key is to know it takes some time to get it done. Glad to hear this video gave you some key ideas 😃
Thanks for the informative video! I just finished an engine refresh on my z, and this will come in useful.
Glad it helped!
Mine doesn’t have a bleeder it had a factory piece of crappy plastic that literally disintegrated when i touched it i replaced it with an aluminum sleeve i was going to install a bleeder but since it didn’t come with it i didn’t
You need this from Z1 th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
Great video man! Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Hey AnthonyJ350 thanks for this video I really needed this
Let us know how it goes. Take me about 45 min to do the procedure so take your time
What is the gauge you have in your engine bay? Great video man! i appreciate the time and effort you have put in to do this video.
Thank you! It's a Z1 fuel pressure gauge th-cam.com/video/dbxmHahknHA/w-d-xo.html
Hey great video! Was just wondering when you know when to stop repeating the process? When the coolant level in the funnel stops going down or when the car is blowing out hot air? Thanks! :)
I stop when I don't see bubbles in the funnel. Takes me around 45 min to do the procedure.
I really need to change mine. Ive never done it in the 8 years of owning and i really doubt any of the previous owners did. Plus itll give me an excuse to upgrade the hoses to silicone or braided and get a nismo tstat lol
Good idea, giving some love to parts like this will save you money by hopefully avoiding major part failure in the future.
the same for a auto correct? if so thanks this is the most clear video i have seen so far,
Yes it would be, glad it helped you.
I had been at it for about 45 min got scared and turned it off. I was going to just drain it all out and start over. It was bubbling like it was running hot but the temp didn’t rise up so that’s ok? I guess it’s cool now and I will try it again maybe attach a video so you can see thanks
Yup that's how long it took me. I shut it down after the fans turn on and repeat the cycle. What's your coolant to distilled water mix ratio?
my original comment:
my fans turned on but the funnel overflowed, i turned it off and the coolant in the funnel went back down, what should I do? The upper radiator hose is hot and the lower one is cold.
My solution: new thermostat. I took my old one out, put it in boiling water and noticed it didnt open until the water got REALLY hot.
Get oem. I had mine replaced 7 months ago with a non oem one and it failed. Last week.
If you follow the video step by step you will be good! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing! I agree, for crucial parts like this. Get OE made in Japan parts.
good video dude
Glad you liked it!
Does the heater core have 2 or 4 hoses? I bought the z1 kit and valve doing this tomorrow
This should help th-cam.com/video/6Hk1Pw9KXiA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i5NQV0SvWjfhmg4R
Just put in a new radiator so 😢i hope this works it may be ny thermostat ...my fan working & its atill rising past the middle mark in the dash do i fill it 1st or do i bleed it during redilling of lost coolant during the abstraion of the radiator?
Open the bleeder and fill the radiator till it pours out. Is the front end elevated when you do this? Make sure you secure with jack stands and secure the rear wheels with the parking brake on please 🙂
Hi dude , I literally just need to top it up , however I do have a coolant reservoir . Shall I bleed the system through the radiator as well ? Thanks
If the system hasn't been serviced for a while a coolant bleed won't hurt. I would recommend putting in fresh fluid.
Does anything have to be done differently on the 350z HR engine compared to the DE engine he is working on?
Should be the same procedure, parts might be a little different
When you say you let it cool down a couple times does that mean you turned the car off and back on or just slightly opened the bleeder valve while still on?
I turn the car off and go do another task or chore then come back.
I notice in the center behind the engine and in front of it their are a few hole in the middle you happen to know what they are for or can I cover them up?
Which part in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 2.06 if you look on the black piece in the center their are a few holes?
Did you repeat the process of revving it up after you let the car cool down or did you just revved the car up until the t- stat opened?
I'd be off and on and wait till the bubbles really stopped. It takes a while.
I actually did get an aluminum bleeder from Z1 thanks to you. 😁
I think it's sooooo much better to work with. What do you think of it?
@@AnthonyJ350 it's definitely a permanent fix. Plastic and hot pressure don't last very long. The oem bleeder is a catastrophic fail and difficult to detect when you get overheat issues. Misdiagnosed a working thermostat is a waste of money.
@@AnthonyJ350 every VQ needs one from Z1
After the first process my bleeder valve has fluid already up there think it’s good??
Did it stop bubbling at the funnel?
Can I still do this bleeding process after I already filled up my new radiator with coolant? Or do I need to start all the way over and flush the coolant from the radiator since I didn't bleed it?
You can just bleed it if you need to.
do you recommend to install oil pressure sensor to V36 g sedans? or 2008 V36 g35 sedan already comes with it?
The gauge you mean? Great idea if you can find a good spot for one.
Quick question smoke came out before coolant is that normal or seems like coolant hitting gasket ?
Smoke coming from where amd when?
The bleeder valve . It was a mist kind of like dry ice mist before smoke and then spewing coolant out of bleeder valve .
@@MrRashaunn Do you have the original plastic or upgraded version? th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AMMKswRIv7WXw_Jr
I got a question I open the air bleeder valve then the radiator cap I didn’t have a free spill funnel but had a regular one I added antifreeze slowly less than 2qts per minute once I see antifreeze dripping out of bleeder valve I close bleeder valve and radiator cap fill the coolant tank start the engine let it get to normal temperature turn the heater on (it started to blow hot hair after the 3rd time of repeating this process) rev the engine to 3k rpm hold it for 10 sec 2 or 3 times turn off the car let it cool down once engine is cold open bleeder valve check for coolant and if coolant level no more longer drops to ur done is this process right? I already did this for 7 times can’t see the coolant level on bleeder valve to stop dropping I took it to a drive to see(car was blowing cold and then hot it did overheat than I waited the whole night this the same process one more time air was blowing full hot after rev the engine went to work drove it on freeway (20 min) and it didn’t overheat and was blowing hot hair I got off of work 7 hours later and start the car the heater wasn’t blowing hot compared to the morning I didn’t want it ti drive it like that so I did the same proces add coolant until spills out of bleeder valve rev it to 3k rpm and started to blow full hot air drove it home everything cool no overheating nothing should I keep doing the same process until I open the bleeder valve until coolant no more longer drops of level or should I just try how you did on this video with the free spill funnel without having to install radiator cap while car is on and I rev it to 2.5k 3k rpm
You need the special funnel like in the video
Curious what stained your coolant hoses with the white specs?
I believe it's the coolant itself. When I researched silicon it's a little porous technically. Maybe the coolant tries to push through when under pressure and as it cools down that happens. Not really sure.
If I don’t have that big funnel, can I use a small one that is just a normal funnel?
Probably not because it won't have the adaptors and it will just leak everywhere. They're at your local car parts store for like $20
Great video!!! I will do this on my FX!!!
Thanks for watching!
Just got mines done yesterday I need to get that bleeder form z motor sports
Best service item you can by for the car. Check it out here th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
My 350z is overheating when I drive replaced the thermostat and forgot to bleed the system I hope this fixes the problem
Let us know if it works for you.
AnthonyJ350 I’ve done it like six times and no luck we’ve replaced water pump and thermostat and no luck so now we’re looking at the heater core we did a head gasket leak kit and it said that our head gasket is good
It overheat when I drive but when in park or neutral( I know it’s an auto I wish it was manual but it is my first car and it’s all I could afford) I can even rev it neutral or park and it doesn’t overheat but when I drive it take like 5 minutes to overheat
Turns out the thermostat we bought was faulty we bought a new one and now my car works great
My 350z overheathing when its parked trying to buy the radiator fan i dont know
You have the link to the new screw?
In the description of this Video th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
Once the bleeder valve spills out. You close it then fill the funnel with more coolant right? It won’t suck in more coolant?
Correct
hey Anthony, i was wondering, i’m using Nissan long life blue coolant, is that fine for my ‘03 350? it’s already 50/50 pre-mixed
I would flush it thoroughly. Using Nissan O.E. fluid should be fine.
Hey if the heat never had an issue blowing hot but the car overheats does that point to a bad thermostat instead of air in the system?
How old is the thermostat?
@@AnthonyJ350 it was the thermostat. Replaced today and all is good now
@@AnthonyJ350 but it was original from 06
@@tcblackg35 Nice, did you put one in that's made in Japan?
@@AnthonyJ350 nope. Duralast from Autozone. Fingers crossed it lasts
Will a regular funnel work ok? Trying to keep it under budget
Not in this manner, this funnel creates a seal so it holds the fluid. The tool is less than $100 and you'll own it forever for future jobs.
Hey man recently my g started to overheat and I added some coolant then I noticed my hot air wasn’t working I’m fixing to do this to see if it works however would my very first step to this prior to jacking it up be drain all the coolant from the radiator?
Fresh fluid is always a good idea. Sounds like the system needs to be bled and/ or your thermostat is stuck.
@@AnthonyJ350if it is my thermostat how would I be able to tell
@@kristianst45 Measure the heat of the upper and lower rad hoses on the radiator when you get to operating temperature. If working correctly they should be similar in temperature.
@@AnthonyJ350 say no more thanks man for replying, wether it’s my thermostat or bleeding my system I’ll check back in
@@kristianst45 Yes, always curious to know how people diagnose and fix things. Helps me learn too 🙂
do you happen to have the link to the funnel you have ? i need one like yours that has that attachment to the block like that
I just bought it at my local auto parts store
Is it okay if the reservoir tank overflows past max?
It will just overflow out the top a little
So when I rev up to 2500 a few times and let it idle, then I shut the engine off. Will I just leave it with the funnel or put the radiator cap back on until it’s completely cooled off?
Wait, that’s was a dumb question! Okay now I have a real question, where’d you get the funnel setup
I just got it at my local auto parts store.
After it spilled from the bleeder valve, did you tighten it back up or leave it loose?
Tighten it back up.
Tighten it back up
@@AnthonyJ350 So you had it tight throughout the whole process?
@@vxf4tal1tyxv67 Yup
I have done this countless times and it’s not working new thermostat too.But what i do is open radiator cap open bleeder valvue then poor in coolant but it never reaches the top of the bleeder valvue.and then it’s doesn’t overheat when i rev it. i drive it for 15 min all is fine then overheats
Something might be blocking the coolant from flowing. Do you have the front end elevated?
In a vq35de, is zerex 50/50 by valvoline green for Nissan a good coolant to use? Just curious because that's what I put in my 03 350z.
If it has the same approval rating for Nissan you should be fine.
Scenario was ; bleeder line broke, spillled coolant.
Addeded coolant as you said, yet during procedure the hvac doesn’t want to pump put hot air.
is that normal? It was fine before the ruptured coolant line
Did you raise the front end and use the funnel upfront? You probably still have air in the system.
What if it is bubbling out of the container like real bad should I cut it off? It’s not running hot it’s bubbling and filling up
If it's bubbling it's removing air from the system. Keep a close eye on your temperatures and keep going. How long have you been bleeding it for?
very informative how to
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!
Support is free 💯🙏 keep working hard and we hope we can support each other’s channel 🥂😎
Quick question do the low speed radiator fans need to come on when you start the car? My car is over heating and the radiator fans don't turn on at all even with ac turned on. I did a self check and only high speed setting kicks on..
You should get the vehicle looked at, at a shop.
Mine pushes the coolant back out with a brand new thermostat?😢
Push it back out where?
Hi hon you sent me here to watch this video it’s on point. That’s exactly what the mechanic did to my car 👍😁
Right on, glad we're on the same page!
I drained my g35 and it’s only holding 1 gallon of coolant is that normal? I drained it with the hose by the radiator drain because I could get the drain plug off without stripping it
You can run the engine for a few seconds to make the pump push everything out.
Can I ask what gear knob setup you have please?😎
It's a Greddy weighted shift knob. I talk about it a bit in this video th-cam.com/video/Y1cXgqL2kZo/w-d-xo.html
Hey man could you help me out?
05 g35x 103k
Problem:
Coolant hovers around 210-215 during cool days while driving.
Fans stay on high for long periods of time.
The problem was occurring before any work was done but I’ve gotten the thermostat, and coolant temp sensor replaced, coolant flushed, and bled a couple times. I just bled it today for a little over 2hrs. I’m trying to figure out what’s going on. I have constant hot heat and cold ac. Maybe just needs to be bleed more? Can a very small amount of air cause constant higher then normal coolant temps?
Any help/advise would be much appreciated!!!
Did you bleed it with the funnel like in the video? Does the heater give hot air all the time? Or only when you bring up the revs?
My overflow tank over filled and started leaking out the top is that normal or is it something wrong and I need to change?
Sounds like it was overfilled
@@AnthonyJ350 I have another problem when doing an coolant bleed, once the car gets to operating temperature the coolant in the no spill funnel starts getting pushed out and splashing everywhere, I believe by air. Any idea of what could it be?
@@yungshaq5166 You have it filled too high.
@@AnthonyJ350 I only fill it at the bottom because it might get high when doing so which it does and I take some of it out before it gets too high, but even after that it still does it. Maybe I should just take it to a mechanic and see what they say.
@@yungshaq5166 Did you install a new thermostat?
when bleeding the system, should the coolant reservoir be empty? My car started overheating and I saw my reservoir was empty. I filled it up but soon realized that my bleeder valve exploded
I just had it at the "normal" level.
I'm not getting hot air blowing in the car when I do this. Any ideas of what's keeping it from cycling properly? Also, I notice that while adding coolant to the funnel the reservoir fills and starts leaking fluid out of an overflow spout at the top of the reservoir, causing coolant to spill all over the ground. Should this happen?
Did you change the thermostat? Also did you open up the bleeder and fill it and close it after, like in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m having the same issue brand new thermostat using a funnel and did the bleeder screw thing too
@@illest_evr Did you elevate the front end of the car and secure it on jack stands or ramps?
@@illest_evr y’all ever figured out why same thing is happening to me I followed the video step by step. I didn’t replace my thermostat could that be a reason why?
@@yungshaq5166did you ever find out
It seems like my thermostat isn’t gettin coolant the tubes pretty cold when the other tube is hot , could use some help trouble shooting everything was working perfect 2 days ago just got a radiator and new thermostat so I know it’s not bad just air in system
Also car idles at operating temp but when I drive over heats, and the heat is only hot when revving or driving
Did you change the thermostat?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes it’s new but I made bit more progress with it, heat is reliably working now and fans kick on still, lower radiator hose to thermostat is still ice cold tho although t-stat itself feels warm
@@johnpagano2744 did you figure it out? My lower hose is still cold as well.
So each time u have too dump out the colant until its no air no more ??? Or u just add coolant until it stays up
You can just use the funnel. Are you topping it off?
Quick question I’m doing the procedure now and had the car elevated… filled it up with coolant until it came out the bleeder valve at the top, I began to add more coolant to fill the funnel 1/3 of the way as described in the video but the coolant continuously flowed downward into the engine and began to fill the coolant revisor passed the Max line. Did I miss a step or do I do the procedure with the coolant resivor full?
Does the funnel fill up?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes the funnel fills up but only for a split second then the coolant slowly goes back down
@@-rikx-3246 did you ever figure it out?
Either I’m already completely blind or I can’t find my bleeder hose, could I possibly have a z without a bleeder valve hose?
What year is it?
My vq35hr so hard to bleed time consuming I bought the same funnel replaced my thermostat and my fans are still on 24 7 what should I check next
Temp sensor replaced?
@@AnthonyJ350 would i get a check engine light for a temp sensor i have no lights.
@@abbas674 Not unless the car thought it was over heating maybe
@@AnthonyJ350 no runs good I’ll just wait until the summer it gets up to 120 degrees where I live I’ll be installing mishimoto radiator and hoses soon thanks for the reply
@@abbas674 You're welcome
Great how to, thanks
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it!
I have a question recently I had the same issue with my car about one of my hoses popped and I replaced it and also bought the new thermostat and I did the burping method but it’s kinda still over heats a lil wen I have my AC ON and wen I come to a complete stop to wait tell the light turns green. Than when I start to drive it goes back to normal is it because I still have air trapped in my motor? And do you have to do the revving part to help it out more or you don’t have to do it. I have a g37 sedan. Should I do that revving at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds. Any advice would be great🙏🏼💯
Sounds like you still have air in the system. Revving it once in a while during the bleeding procedure does seem to help. Just follow the video and have the front end elevated safely to get the air out.
@@AnthonyJ350 okay sounds good I appreciate it man will do today I’ll let you know how it goes👍
@@fernandopimentel6577 Please yes, let us know how it turns out 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 i will today I did the bleeding method and i have a question how long does it take for the air to come out of the motor can it take days or so? Because today I was doing it all day and it kept throwing air bubbles only a lil bet. So I took it for a spin and it kept overheating when I come to a complete stop. Do I have to wait tell there’s No air bubbles at all. And also I had the car on the driveway since it goes up a Little so thought that would help with the burping. Does the front of the car has to be pretty high in order to take out all the air bubbles out of the motor.
@@fernandopimentel6577 I also have the front end lifted where I can put jack stands underneath. These cars are a pain to bleed. It takes me about 45 min including cooling cycles.
Is this the same process for the fifth gen maxima? SE
Be really similar. Does it have the bleeder screw?
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m not seeing it actually. It’s a automatic. That may be why.
@@watchmesk8betta I'd use the funnel and elevate the front the same as the video.
@@AnthonyJ350 hey thanks. So I’m not certain but mine doesn’t have a bleeder. And I got the job done last night thanks! Appreciate you taking the time to help the people
So if the thermostat is stuck closed is there a way to open it or I just have to replace the thermostat?
You'll have to replace it.
Mine does not overheat anymore but heater still don't work which i don't mind since im not using it on winter
It might be the blend motor is not working preventing the temperature change.
How much coolant would I need ? I got 1 gallon would I need more
I believe the owners manual says something like 9 quarts. Double check yours.
Do you turn the car off after you rev it, in order to let the engine cool down? Does the bleeder screw stay open the entire time?
I would let it idle for a few seconds before you shut it down. The bleeder screw is only opened when you first initially fill it up.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok, last question, is it ok to open the bleeder screw while I have the lisle funnel on the radiator, to check if I have air bubles after first initial fill?
Doing the job as wee speak, just finished the thermostat now im bouta bleed and fill the system.
@@spliffstrumental90 Ya you can do that. Initial fill with the funnel is fine. Just leave it closed when you run the motor.
question ? How many gallons to refill the system?
I highly recommend getting a service manual like Haynes, and it will tell you fluid capacities and fluid type.
Shouldnt the hose on the top left be the other way with the hump pointing to the driver side
I just installed it however it layed out nice.
Hey man,old video but maybe you can help..whenbi have my z idleling and rev to 3000 and my issue is after the car gets hot it spits all the new coolant out from no spill funnell,the funnell will fill up and then overflow and leak everywhere. .why is it spitting back after a while .I thought i was good my heay was working and all was good i was about to stop and call it a day n go for a ride but before i could go out and remive the funnel i noticed it filled the funnell to top and never syoped just keep pouring anitifreeze
When you're bleeding the cooling system, is the front end elevated?
Need help with a g35. Got no heat when at idle. It can set and idle all day and never get hot but it over heats almost immediately after I start to drive. I put in a new thermostat and replaced the bleeder valve but I just cant seem to get it right again. Any help would be appreciated.
Did you try bleeding the system the way we did in the video with the front end up in the air and the special funnel?
@@AnthonyJ350
No I got to get a funnel like that one. I changed the thermostat and now it will set and idle literally all day long but you cant drive it 50 yards without it getting hot. My heat dosent work unless you're driving anymore. It's running fine theres no oil in the water I'm not losing coolant. I just cant figure it out. I love my car and cant really afford to take it into a shop right now with having spent a bit to much on my kids for Christmas and I'm just looking for any help with diagnosing the problem. I appreciate your time.
@@youtubebannedme4207 Did you bleed the system with the car's nose in the air? It takes me easily 45 min to do the procedure, so it's not exactly fast.
so whats rhe exact sign that you are done bleeding the system?
You stop seeing bubbles in the funnel.
@@AnthonyJ350 do i need to mess with the bleeder valve? do i need to turn my car off t all or do i wana keep my cr running ungtil its all out
@@autograph415 You just open the bleeder like how I did when you first start. Watch the whole video again.
Wait so if my radiator fans kick on while my engine temp goes up that means my thermostat is working correctly?
Not necessarily, the best way to quickly check the thermostat is to make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses feel like the same temperature safely. Also is your temperature gauge fluctuating?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes , I notice that the temp gauge go up and down as I drive cruising on the freeway, I’m thinking it’s either the thermostat or the water pump but the water pump shows no indication of a leak or any excess noise coming from the engine bay. I’m going to check the radiator hoses tomorrow to see if there is a big temp difference.
@@AnthonyJ350 also there’s no leaks coming from the car and I haven’t removed or added coolant and so I know there shouldn’t be air in the system and the radiator cap isn’t cracked or broken and neither is the radiator hoses not sure if that helps narrow it down
@@JP-zz5rm Does the temperature go down when you're moving? Or does the car take a long time to warm up when you start driving?
@@AnthonyJ350 the temperature goes down while I’m on the freeway about 3/4 of the way to Hot and when I’m in the streets it just goes up until it overheats
what about the water pump tests
It pumps
How long do i let her cool down for before i take the funnel off?
Long enough so you don't burn yourself.
I followed all your steps but my lower radiator hose is still cold. how can i fix it
Did you change out the thermostat?
What funnel kit is this
Just a radiator funnel kit I got at my local auto parts store.
where is that shift knob is from?
Got it from Greddy and the shifter itself is a Torque Solution
Link to z1 relieve valve?
Here's the video, link is in the th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
I bought a low milage 04 that was well maintained with lots of records so I wouldn't have to do much.... oh boy I was wrong 😂. It was good for 6000km. Ended up having to fix the boot hole seals because oil was leaking in the wells. Instead of buying new covers I took the old ones off, kept the boot hole gaskets but just put a nice layer of black rtv on them. Grabbed new valve gaskets well I was at it. It ruined one the coils so I bought 6 new along with plugs. So far 20,000km later no oil in wells 😂😁. Now i have the joys of doing the differential bushings since I saw black leaking out 😟. Did the rotors and a bleed ahwile back. It's always something with these cars lol. There good cars though, bullet proof I've beat the living shit out of it the past 4 years no major issues.
I agree they are good cars. They're at that age where wearable items and rubber parts are going to degrade. My 2005 Silverado went through the same thing, spent 3 year rebuilding it with better parts as parts would wear out. Now the vehicle drives awesome and Im spending very little money.
At least with repairs like that you can upgrade. Newer cars this seems to be getting harder to do.
Hey man, great video. Ive been chasing this issue for awhile. Evidently overheating (or fooled temp sensor due to air bubbles) is common? I feel like ive been bleeding air for a while. I usually did 5 minutes of bleeding maybe once every few months before i notice the temp needle creeping a little higher than normal. Perhaps im not doing it long enough? It seems after a bleed im good to go for a while but would like to not worry about it anymore. I wonder if air is being introduced into the system somehow. Thoughts?
It takes me 45 mins to bleed my car with the front elevated using the funnel. Are you doing it like in the video?
how do i know if my thermostat is working?
Measure the heat of the upper and lower coolant hoses on the radiator when you get to operating temperature.
@@AnthonyJ350 they both have to be hot or?
@@jaimeacosta6534 Yes eventually both will be hot
I'm getting super hot air now but when I turn the car on, I hear bubbling still. Do I need to restart?
Do you have the funnel like in the video? It takes a while to bleed out these cooling systems.
Sounds like your water pump is bad.
I have been trying to bleed the system but every time I start to get heat when I rev it the heat goes away once I stop also the aluminum radiator I installed starts to get hot any suggestions?
Did you do it the exact same way as the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 II wasn’t using the bleeder valve enough like you did in the video I eventually got it bleed all the way just took a lot longer than expected this video helped a lot
@@trentonbullock48 Glad the video helped you out!
I've got a question that doesn't pertain to this particular subject.. but, my Z makes a pretty awful burning smell at high RPMs. It won't do it any other time, only at higher RPMs, near 5000 usually. Someone told me it could be loose oil sump bolts and the pressure is causing it to leak out and burn? I don't think that sounds right but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere I go. You seem like a knowledgeable guy. Also for reference my Z is the 04 Touring model
When was the last time the PCV valve was changed? Also check the vacuum tube that goes from the intake tube to the motor.
Does the vehicle have a breather PCV delete?
Curious, what kind of oil do you use?
This video might also help you th-cam.com/video/Kzo3ZlPKyxw/w-d-xo.html
my fans turned on but the funnel overflowed, i turned it off and the coolant in the funnel went back down, what should I do?
Did you open the bleeder when it was cold before you filled it up?
@@AnthonyJ350 yup, literally followed your video step by step. Im thinking its my thermostat because bottom radiator hose is cold and the top one is hot
@@gianvmarco Makes sense, I got an OEM one that was made in Japan. I have a full coolant job video for the car.
Had my bleeder valve explode on the road. The car really only over heats only when driven. I haven't got a new valve yet, and just connected the two lines together via a plastic tube the same diameter of the bleeder. I bled the system with a funnel, and it still overheats. What am I missing? Do I REALLY need that valve, or do I have a possible head gasket issue?
Are you looking coolant regularly?
@@AnthonyJ350 the car stopped leaking coolant after I connected the lines back together
I would get the Z1 bleeder and do the procedure like in the video. Takes easily up to 45 minutes to bleed it.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok. Ill give it another try. I did notice the vehicle was completely out of oil. I wonder if this would contribute to the car only over heating while being driven, not while idle
@@amaterasu8829 Yes, oil lubricates and can act as a heat exchanger with an oil cooler. This video may help as well th-cam.com/video/1Yrlq285UHY/w-d-xo.html