Well done…you got my sub. I just picked up a ’83 E-rude 15hp (along with boat and trailer) with weak pee flow; lightly used in fresh; probably no maintenance for 2+ years. I have my to-do list to get it in shape, and if a new impeller doesn’t help the flow, I now know what else to look at.
I went to take the 1978 9.9 out today and it wasn't peeing. I just had it out last week and no issues on a 10 mile round trip. So I loaded it back up and brought it home. Dropped the lower and the pump and everything looked good, just changed it 2 years ago. So I figured I would hop on the tube and figure out what the problem might be. I'm not liking what might be the problem now. Oh and the bearings on my trailer are shot too. Today just isn't my day.
Can you explain the "work around" that you mentioned for the single tube style? I assume that it is something like remove the lower unit and run something up the tube to dislodge the buildup. I have a 1980 9.9 electric start that i really do not want to try to remove the powerhead if i don't have to. Thank you for the video!
Yes' find a old discarded weed whacker, remove the flex shaft from it. drop lower unit shove flex shaft up water tube mark flex shaft with marker so as to have 4-6 inches hanging out the water tube cut flex shaft & hook to a cordless drill, at the end being sent up water tube shred a bit with a set of pliers, Send up rotate drill both directions for a min. or so. remove flex shaft and blow compressed air back thru p-tube & blubber hole. If your shot exhaust tube gromett under powerhead has collapased this will not solve the problem. kb
You are right...And the sad thing is that the original style grommets on the early models were no problem at all...Some knit whit engineer, that had never heard of salt water change the grommet/water tube design in 1979, which was when the problems began. The design was once again changed in the mid 80s, which was an improvement, but problems continued. I solved the problem with the 79-mid 80s grommets by "misinstalling" them so the grommet does not extend over top of the water tube. I usually just slice a little bit off the top of the later style grommets to achieve the same thing...And yeah, the open megaphone doubled the grommet issue, it also introduced upper motor mount problems by allowing exhaust/goo to easily flow up around the mounts....OK, looks like you do the same thing I do by trimming the grommets But, are you using the later style grommet on the early style water tube?? ....Later model water tubes were a little longer to help make sure the grommets did not extend over top of the water tube...I remember the first one I discovered, it was a 1980 sailmaster.. I remember misinstalling the grommet, then pulling it apart years later to check it out, was doing fine...Just another case of engineers who know/care nothing about the power of salt water...
When reinstalling the power head how do you get the long copper tube back in its hole do you have to remove the foot install the head then put the foot back on nobody has a how to video on that thats my dilemma i ran into today only way i can think of doing it is lowering the foot
Well' I 4 sure do Have that Vid, Now do not ask me what I titled it ? Ok mate The answer is Yes & No. If your tube is in the kinda-sorts position U removed the power head drop it in & hope it makes the water pump hole? If when U start it , & No Pee, Yes drop the L/U make sure it is in the pump housing. sucks but that is the deal. kb
Yes there are a few different acid solutions on the Market most are Nitric Acid based such as SALT-A-WAY.. There are other brands which course solvents etc. . kb
I have 4 of these motors the grommets in the water pump kits whittled down a bit works too razor blade and a minute or two of fiddling I fixed all 4 the last one was done 18years ago and still pissing my buddy used a piece of rubber hose
@@kodibassInsideoutboards Hey, thanks for the reply That is good advice as I pulled it apart and the impeller had detonated so hopefully that will get her going! Other than that she is a solid runner!
Hi, what's the correct range temperature of powerhead? I tried the outboard in a barrel and seems the the power head system was very hot. Water coming out from the check, thermostat is new. Thanks
Hey kodi I know it’s a old video I have 1986 15 evinrude new impeller pees like a bull but no water from the exhaust port,pulled the head 3times water passages clean,new grommets and none of them are pinched
Hi Kodibass! I have a question related to overheating. Do you frequently see exhaust ports overly caked in carbon buildup? I recently lost a Johnson 25 due to carbon breaking free and falling into a cylinder. When I pulled the cover, the inside looked like a charcoal furnace. Prior to its demise, it had been showing signs of overheating and "excess drag". My "baby", however, is a 1966 6hp. It's been utterly reliable, always ran like a new motor. This year, it's beginning to feel some of the same sense of excess drag. Bit what's really interesting is that it cuts out at low idle, as though a reed is sticking. Opening the throttle will cause an abrupt correction in which the motor runs perfectly again..ignoring the drag. I've had the intake apart recently, and already have ruled out the reeds. Both leaves are viable, with the stops and the plate still clean and shiny. Nothing adhering. Falling back on the heartbreak from my 25, I think I'm seeing another picture of a clogged exhaust cavity. My thinking is the excess backpressure is causing the drag, and also reducing the vacuum to a point where it can't open the reeds if the RPM is too low. I'm going to pull the cover this weekend and give that a good cleaning, especially to have some peace of mind that the 6 won't follow a similar fate as the 25. Researching online, I've seen a lot of apparently reputable outboard mechanics swear that will never be a problem. But I've personally witnessed it once, maybe twice. Additionally, my service manual also disagrees with them, insisting that the exhaust ports be cleaned as part of regular maintenance. Do you have any experience in that respect?
hello my friend. My Evinrude etech 30 hp engine is leaking oil from the tail joints. The smoke is not coming out completely from the exhaust, I think the engine is choking and not working properly. Why does this?.. What should I do?..Thank you..
Great video! I own a 1976 9.9 johnson that does not have the tell tale. I installed a new grommet on my water tube . I have ran my motor several times but water Only comes out the exhaust relief at high speed. At idle it circulates but comes out around the lower mount bracket. I would like to see it spitting out the exhaust relief all the time. Would you have any suggestions? Thanks
+rodman738, Did you replace both grommets? It is just as important to change the exhaust grommet as the pick up one, they both are prone to distortion over time. Also check your T-stat. kodi
rodman738 not sure if you’re still following this, I’m having the same problem. Visually I can see water coming out of the 4 holes above the cavitation plate. I would like to see it spit out of that exhaust relief too!
Connor D I believe I did change the thermostat. My motor only had one Gromley to change. I added a tele tale to this motor also. Check Leroys Ramblings he has many informative articles,
@kodibass should the water coming out of the telltale ever be a little hot ? My Jonhson 15 runs perfect but the water will get warm sometime and the power head often gets hot to the touch ?? Is this normal for these motors?
I have an early 80s Johnson 9.9 have rebuilt water pump, put in new thermostat, Shot water up through the copper tubing and out the tell tale with water hose, also shot water down thru the bottom of foot and cleared the little mesh filter at the bottom.. still not getting a strong stream from telltale. After watching this I am realizing I have checked everything but that upper water grommet At the bottom of power head. Think that’s my issue?
kodibass pulled it off last night wish I could show a pic of it it had melted and collapsed into itself!! Waiting on new grommet and housing gasket to now
Bonjour pourriez vous me guider et me dire pourquoi l eau ne coule pas par la pissette mais par le trou en dessous le moteur et mon moteur evinrude 9.9 ne chauffe pas du tout??? Merci
+AM, The design was "" improved"" for the post 1992 motors which is what u have, However improved does not mean done away with, Yes' It can happen to a 1999, kodi
Is there a source for these little rubber tubes (or, er, "grommets") where they don't cost $10-15-20 or more apiece? What a crazy price for a little rubber part... Thanks for the video, subscribed and liked. :)
good evening master I have a good evinrude 9.9 model 1983 which sounds good on an inflatable boat 3.80 meters. in the sea the engine speed goes up well in acciliration but not of force the speed of the boat does not exceed 4/5 knots give me some idea please ... thank you very much
How about an obvious question??? You said you have a "work around" ...care to share??? After reviewing this video which is great I see a perfectly complete paper gasket meshing down tight all around the water tube. My question is WHY bother with any gromet at all?? Seems a good tight gasket fit with tight bolts seems that there should no need for any gromet....reach up the water tube and grind out the obstruction and leave it go.... No need to pull the power head????? Whatcha say fella???
Well done…you got my sub. I just picked up a ’83 E-rude 15hp (along with boat and trailer) with weak pee flow; lightly used in fresh; probably no maintenance for 2+ years. I have my to-do list to get it in shape, and if a new impeller doesn’t help the flow, I now know what else to look at.
+William Moomaw, Congrats on your new motor, pound for pound one of the Best ever made.
kodi
Most common problem I've had on these johnnyrudes besides the throttle gear being chewed up. Great explanation!
Carl Harris, Yep' I agree 100% I also don't care for the recoil starter. kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards that's true also overflywheel recoils make carb repairs much simpler
I went to take the 1978 9.9 out today and it wasn't peeing. I just had it out last week and no issues on a 10 mile round trip. So I loaded it back up and brought it home. Dropped the lower and the pump and everything looked good, just changed it 2 years ago. So I figured I would hop on the tube and figure out what the problem might be. I'm not liking what might be the problem now. Oh and the bearings on my trailer are shot too. Today just isn't my day.
Can you explain the "work around" that you mentioned for the single tube style? I assume that it is something like remove the lower unit and run something up the tube to dislodge the buildup. I have a 1980 9.9 electric start that i really do not want to try to remove the powerhead if i don't have to. Thank you for the video!
Yes' find a old discarded weed whacker, remove the flex shaft from it. drop lower unit shove flex shaft up water tube mark flex shaft with marker so as to have 4-6 inches hanging out the water tube cut flex shaft & hook to a cordless drill, at the end being sent up water tube shred a bit with a set of pliers, Send up rotate drill both directions for a min. or so. remove flex shaft and blow compressed air back thru p-tube & blubber hole. If your shot exhaust tube gromett under powerhead has collapased this will not solve the problem. kb
You are right...And the sad thing is that the original style grommets on the early models were no problem at all...Some knit whit engineer, that had never heard of salt water change the grommet/water tube design in 1979, which was when the problems began. The design was once again changed in the mid 80s, which was an improvement, but problems continued. I solved the problem with the 79-mid 80s grommets by "misinstalling" them so the grommet does not extend over top of the water tube. I usually just slice a little bit off the top of the later style grommets to achieve the same thing...And yeah, the open megaphone doubled the grommet issue, it also introduced upper motor mount problems by allowing exhaust/goo to easily flow up around the mounts....OK, looks like you do the same thing I do by trimming the grommets But, are you using the later style grommet on the early style water tube?? ....Later model water tubes were a little longer to help make sure the grommets did not extend over top of the water tube...I remember the first one I discovered, it was a 1980 sailmaster.. I remember misinstalling the grommet, then pulling it apart years later to check it out, was doing fine...Just another case of engineers who know/care nothing about the power of salt water...
Is there a problem with the old style grommet?? I ordered new grommets and they are the old style. I’m assuming it should work ok… should I trim mine?
When reinstalling the power head how do you get the long copper tube back in its hole do you have to remove the foot install the head then put the foot back on nobody has a how to video on that thats my dilemma i ran into today only way i can think of doing it is lowering the foot
Well' I 4 sure do Have that Vid, Now do not ask me what I titled it ? Ok mate The answer is Yes & No. If your tube is in the kinda-sorts position U removed the power head drop it in & hope it makes the water pump hole? If when U start it , & No Pee, Yes drop the L/U make sure it is in the pump housing. sucks but that is the deal. kb
Is there some kind of solution you can poor in the water jacket to solve the salt? I was thinking of acid because the acid will clean Aluminum.
Yes there are a few different acid solutions on the Market most are Nitric Acid based such as SALT-A-WAY.. There are other brands which course solvents etc. . kb
999, will there be a 1000 party! great stuff!
I have 4 of these motors the grommets in the water pump kits whittled down a bit works too razor blade and a minute or two of fiddling I fixed all 4 the last one was done 18years ago and still pissing my buddy used a piece of rubber hose
Nice. Thnaks. Im tinkering with a 9.9 sears "Gamefisher" and Im pretty sure this must be my issue impeller is good, thermostat is good but no flow.
+AG, I would drop your lower unit, & check if the water up-take tube is in the water pump housing, B4 Pulling the power head. kodi
@@kodibassInsideoutboards Hey, thanks for the reply That is good advice as I pulled it apart and the impeller had detonated so hopefully that will get her going! Other than that she is a solid runner!
@@alexgoldstein7553 Great 2 hear, Them R Tuff outboards 4 sure. kodi
Hi, what's the correct range temperature of powerhead? I tried the outboard in a barrel and seems the the power head system was very hot.
Water coming out from the check, thermostat is new.
Thanks
Hey kodi I know it’s a old video I have 1986 15 evinrude new impeller pees like a bull but no water from the exhaust port,pulled the head 3times water passages clean,new grommets and none of them are pinched
Hi Kodibass! I have a question related to overheating. Do you frequently see exhaust ports overly caked in carbon buildup? I recently lost a Johnson 25 due to carbon breaking free and falling into a cylinder. When I pulled the cover, the inside looked like a charcoal furnace. Prior to its demise, it had been showing signs of overheating and "excess drag".
My "baby", however, is a 1966 6hp. It's been utterly reliable, always ran like a new motor. This year, it's beginning to feel some of the same sense of excess drag. Bit what's really interesting is that it cuts out at low idle, as though a reed is sticking. Opening the throttle will cause an abrupt correction in which the motor runs perfectly again..ignoring the drag. I've had the intake apart recently, and already have ruled out the reeds. Both leaves are viable, with the stops and the plate still clean and shiny. Nothing adhering.
Falling back on the heartbreak from my 25, I think I'm seeing another picture of a clogged exhaust cavity. My thinking is the excess backpressure is causing the drag, and also reducing the vacuum to a point where it can't open the reeds if the RPM is too low. I'm going to pull the cover this weekend and give that a good cleaning, especially to have some peace of mind that the 6 won't follow a similar fate as the 25.
Researching online, I've seen a lot of apparently reputable outboard mechanics swear that will never be a problem. But I've personally witnessed it once, maybe twice. Additionally, my service manual also disagrees with them, insisting that the exhaust ports be cleaned as part of regular maintenance. Do you have any experience in that respect?
hello my friend. My Evinrude etech 30 hp engine is leaking oil from the tail joints. The smoke is not coming out completely from the exhaust, I think the engine is choking and not working properly. Why does this?.. What should I do?..Thank you..
Great video! I own a 1976 9.9 johnson that does not have the tell tale. I installed a new grommet on my water tube . I have ran my motor several times but water Only comes out the exhaust relief at high speed. At idle it circulates but comes out around the lower mount bracket. I would like to see it spitting out the exhaust relief all the time. Would you have any suggestions? Thanks
+rodman738, Did you replace both grommets? It is just as important to change the exhaust grommet as the pick up one, they both are prone to distortion over time. Also check your T-stat. kodi
rodman738 not sure if you’re still following this, I’m having the same problem. Visually I can see water coming out of the 4 holes above the cavitation plate. I would like to see it spit out of that exhaust relief too!
Connor D I believe I did change the thermostat. My motor only had one Gromley to change.
I added a tele tale to this motor also. Check Leroys Ramblings he has many informative articles,
rodman738 thank you! I was hoping you were still around after a year! Glad to hear it seems like you got it solved
Great video. Can you tell me what the operating temperature of the head should be?
APPROX 165
@kodibass should the water coming out of the telltale ever be a little hot ? My Jonhson 15 runs perfect but the water will get warm sometime and the power head often gets hot to the touch ?? Is this normal for these motors?
Did you ever find an answer to this? I’ve got the same question
I have an early 80s Johnson 9.9 have rebuilt water pump, put in new thermostat, Shot water up through the copper tubing and out the tell tale with water hose, also shot water down thru the bottom of foot and cleared the little mesh filter at the bottom.. still not getting a strong stream from telltale. After watching this I am realizing I have checked everything but that upper water grommet At the bottom of power head. Think that’s my issue?
+TT, Yes' the upper grom's R your prob's & issue 4 sure...... kodi
kodibass pulled it off last night wish I could show a pic of it it had melted and collapsed into itself!! Waiting on new grommet and housing gasket to now
Bonjour pourriez vous me guider et me dire pourquoi l eau ne coule pas par la pissette mais par le trou en dessous le moteur et mon moteur evinrude 9.9 ne chauffe pas du tout??? Merci
Does this apply to the more recent model years as well? I have a '99 johnson 9.9/15 with cooling issues
+AM, The design was "" improved"" for the post 1992 motors which is what u have, However improved does not mean done away with, Yes' It can happen to a 1999,
kodi
I wonder if a neoprene O ring would be a better long term option?
Now that is one I do not know. kodi
Is there a source for these little rubber tubes (or, er, "grommets") where they don't cost $10-15-20 or more apiece? What a crazy price for a little rubber part...
Thanks for the video, subscribed and liked. :)
+krrt66, Sad but that is the going Rate, kodi
good evening master I have a good evinrude 9.9 model 1983 which sounds good on an inflatable boat 3.80 meters. in the sea the engine speed goes up well in acciliration but not of force the speed of the boat does not exceed 4/5 knots give me some idea please ... thank you very much
+JM, It sounds like what you are describing is a slipping propeller hub, Try a different prop. kodi
kodibass .hi sir i stuck the flywheel with forward gear and i turn the propeller with all my might it not slip? thanks for your reply
How about an obvious question??? You said you have a "work around" ...care to share??? After reviewing this video which is great I see a perfectly complete paper gasket meshing down tight all around the water tube. My question is WHY bother with any gromet at all?? Seems a good tight gasket fit with tight bolts seems that there should no need for any gromet....reach up the water tube and grind out the obstruction and leave it go.... No need to pull the power head????? Whatcha say fella???