i just stumbled across your rebuild of 15 hp Johnson and you are the very best teacher i have come across, thankyou for your great work and keep it up i only wish you lived near me but i live in Australia i love your work. God Bless
I just took my 1990 Johnson 15 for the first run on the water today after a complete rebuild. She had been left to rot and hadn’t run in about 15 years. Today she ran like a champ. I have to say thanks for your videos, particularly the one in this series, as they helped me a ton on my first outboard rebuild. I really appreciate you taking the time to post good footage and explain all of the steps. Thanks a ton!
Thank you so much for this video series. I have the same outboard and will replace the piston rings. Im currently waiting for rings and gaskets to come. These are the best videos i have seen and you also use regular tools in an outdoor shop demonstrating it can be done.
Very intersting and useful project.. Let me add my two-pence worth, mixing in equal parts ATF and acetone will give you the best rust buster there is. You didn't mention it but I guess you used a new head gasket for the compression test as otherwise, the weak part of the gasket that had allowed water in the cylinder would have allowed the compression to escape. Mind you the compresion on the top cylinder was on the low side anyway so as you aptly said, this calls for a honing job..
Thanks for the tip on the rust buster. I will give that a try. In the salt water everything is rusty. No I had the old gasket on for the compression test. I was hoping for at least 80 psi. I might have been able to start it. I am not sure how low the compression can be and still start. I always used 80 as a bench mark. Thank for bringing that to my attention for next time. Stay Safe!!
@@OmFishing OMC won't say what is acceptable compression. I guess they rightfully figured that we would all use those highly inaccurate 20$ gauges and draft wrong diagnostics. I've tried testing with two similar gauges and got a 5 pounds difference. Still those gauges are very useful in measuring the % (forget about the exact numbers) of compression variance between cylindrers which is probably more critical in deciding on a restauration. From my limited experience (I've got 2 of those engines) and inquiring around, your typical 9.9-15 hp just won't start if compression is less that 70 # and at that level, will need a lot of cranking before coughing. Anyway, I'm really looking forward to your opening those head side plates so we may find about ths rings' condition and possible scoring on the pistons' sides. I'm quite positive on those results since the cylinders' interior surfaces seemed pretty smooth if not glazed. So, invest in a 2 1/4 ''' honing ball (much easier to use that the typical stones), new rings and top and bottom crankcase seals AND watch that compression skyrocket to 90 #. Thanks again !
Hi Om, I have a question? im replacing a powerhead on my 1963 Evinrude 10 hp with one I got on Ebay, will I get good results if I check the compression if powerhead is not mounted?
Thanks a lot for your answer. I changed the head cylinder gasket; however, I still with low compression just 50 PSI. Is it hard to change piston RIngs> DO you recommend it after overheat? do you have a video to know how to do it?
Did you put a new head gasket on and retry compression ? Had low like that on mine and cleaned the rings real good with Kroil oil and a new head gasket and got an even 85. Low still but better than 50 and 65. Lol. I rebuilt it. Lol
I am looking for around 80 psi I am not sure how low it could be and still start. I do know 80 will start and run. When it gets low it does make them hard to start. I would not try to start at 60 psi.
@@francimasaza8749 The compression should be for a two cycle motor between 80 to 140 psi. Over the years I have found the lower compression the lower the power. That is way we need to change the rings when compression is low.
Very inspiring story. I asked a local shop if they had any older outboards laying around I could buy cheap for a winder project. Ironically it was an OMC 15 horse. Now researching to see what's missing. Any ideas for sorting out if I'm looking for the Evinrude or Johnson manual for it? It says OMC on the nameplate. Thanks!
Mate get it running and I rekon first col compression check will be around 100 psi after a 10 minute wake up run, dude, metal needs a wake up call, and piston rings get very sleepy, heat it up baby
PS: I'm surprised there was even a thermostat in there, most folks try to mask/cover up cooling issues by removing it, the wrong move indeed....And yes, the thermostat gasket was impropery installed, but at least it was there....Looks like there is some sort of helicoil insert in the lower plug hole also...
Thanks for watching and keeping me straight. I am going to post the next video Saturday. One of the reeds has broken off and was eat by the engine. Let me know what you think about the damage. I was thinking I would hone the cylinders and see how they look. I don't see any damage to the cylinder walls.
@@OmFishing OK, this is my third reply attempt....Pull the intake manifold off and have a look at the crank/rods for signs of rust. Sometimes a broken reed can create negative exhaust pressures that might explain the water in one of the cylinders. Pull the intake bypass cover off to have a better look at the piston skirts/rings. Then, I guess if it were mine, I would give her the 50 cent hone job with emery, reinstall the head and recheck compression...I just don't want to see you pull that powerhead apart and spend big bucks for pistons/boring/etc. If everything looks OK, but the compression doesn't come up/even out, then pull it down, hopefully a light honing and rings will rejuvinate it...Be sure to drain that gearcase also to make sure it isn't full of water....Good luck buddy...Don
@@fleetwin1 When I pulled the intake off the bottom rod bearings were sloppy. I took the cap off and the bearing fell out. I have another motor I was thinking of getting some parts off to repair this one. What do you think.
@@OmFishing Well, sometimes these bearings are normally a bit sloppy....How did the bearing/crank/rod journals look? Were they rusted/pitted? Well, I guess now you are committed to pulling this thing apart....
There are a few of us that you can buy a motor from an be assured it being as advertised. (I was at wedding- friend an bride's brother checked out my Jeep an opened up his checkbook!)(I put a Yamaha Venture Royal motorcycle in WA. St. Motorcycle show an saw a 3rd place ribbon placed on my bike! Guy pulled out his checkbook)(I added propane an 80gal tank to Chevy pick up for dual fuel then had a suspension put under it, an my friend Don bought it, pulled out his checkbook) my friend Kenny trailer pick up he sold to B. Willis in Oregon City when he was making movie in Portland area, cool!
I know your right. I think most people are honest. When I bought this motor the guy showed me how easy it turns over, not locked up. It had to be a trick with his hands. That motor had not turned over in years. I can live with it if he can. We are not going to label every body from just a few.
@@OmFishing you know I've discovered that that guys you want to buy stuff from turn out to be the Best Friends too! An vise, guys that treat their wives an equipment like cr#p turn out to be the ones you want to stay away from!
@@OmFishing I'm thinkin of guy next to us going to sell something that evening, he'd go out in morning pull plugs squirt some oil, replace plugs an crank away until he was happy to show it. But then again he slept outside in summer as kid to shot pellets at passing cars!
@@mikechurch2359 I had a outboard like that. Everyone told me it was afraid of the water. I was toId that it was the power back need replaced. I checked the temperature switch to see if it was going into safe mode. In my case the problem was the float was not set right in the carb. When you give it gas the bow would come up. Change the float angle and it would shut the gas off. Bow come back down and the motor would get gas and idle again.
I use 90 to 100 psi and good. As the compression gets lower the outboard has less power. So 60 could run but not with the power of a motor with 90. I am not saying it will not run. A lot of times they get hard to start. You could have a lower compression motor that is very dependable. The rule of thumb it is low.
Im doing a 40 Evinrude now 1999. What I was wondering is I know the piston says up which goes towards the flywheel. The connecting rod has a hole going to the wrist pin bearings. I had to change the pistons and was wondering which way the connecting rod goes? That wrist pin hole towards the flywheel? The service manual says it doesnt matter which way the connecting rod goes with that hole? Wondering if you would know that? I didnt mark it which I should have. Thanks
That is a trick question. How hot is really hot! The thermostat does not open until the motor is 145 degrees. When you are testing the engine block for temperature you use a 163 degree melt stick. As long as it does not get that hot it is ok. I know if I put my hand in 140 degree water it is really hot to me. I hope this helped. Thanks for commenting.
@@OmFishing it's got a pretty weak stream also. I'm going to change the water pump assembly and thermostat. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos.
I use a heat gun and lots of patience. I all so use a torque wrench set for the proper pounds of torque for put the head on. This way I don't get heavy handed and break them off. Which I have done in the past. Even know we know better. Good luck.
I've got a Johnson outboard thats in pretty bad shape but it doesn't have any numbers nor can I see a id number on it. I'm having a hard time getting the shell off of it. I dont wanna break anything on it. It was given to me as a gift. Any help would be great. It just says Johnson on the side
Oh, she's a crusty one for sure.....I guess my first concern would be where did the water come from? Is there an internal water leak, or perhaps someone just was running it with water in the fuel and threw it on the shelf to rust away....Try doing what I refer to as the " 50 cent hone job" with some fine emery on the cylinder walls...Crude yes, but it will clean most of the rust away and give you a better idea just how badly the cylinder walls are pitted. Maybe cleaning up the walls a bit will bring the compression up a bit and even it out between the two cylinders. If compression numbers remain low and the walls look "OK", try pulling the exhaust cover and intake bypass covers which will let you peak at the piston skirts/rings. Who knows, maybe you will get lucky, these things will fool us sometimes...If you commit to pulling the powerhead down, you will most likely face having to bore over and replace the pistons..I'm guessing you will find some pitted bearings and races also, which will make this project expensive. Be sure to drain the gear lube before going much further also, no sense doing powerhead work on an engine with a damaged gearcase. These earlier models were the best ones for sure, mostly because the powerheads and gearcases were rugged and reliable. I hope the 50 cent hone job works out and the gear lube is relatively clean, can't wait to hear this old dog fire up again!
The guy I feel bad for is the family man that is trying to get a motor so him and his son can go fishing. I did this for the video. I text the man on face book, he wanted to meet me in the church parking lot. He did a slight of hand and turned the fly wheel to show me it was not locked up. I took his word for it. That motor would have never started if.
i just stumbled across your rebuild of 15 hp Johnson and you are the very best teacher i have come across, thankyou for your great work and keep it up i only wish you lived near me but i live in Australia i love your work. God Bless
Thank you for the kind words. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just took my 1990 Johnson 15 for the first run on the water today after a complete rebuild. She had been left to rot and hadn’t run in about 15 years. Today she ran like a champ. I have to say thanks for your videos, particularly the one in this series, as they helped me a ton on my first outboard rebuild. I really appreciate you taking the time to post good footage and explain all of the steps. Thanks a ton!
I am happy it helped. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you so much for this video series. I have the same outboard and will replace the piston rings. Im currently waiting for rings and gaskets to come. These are the best videos i have seen and you also use regular tools in an outdoor shop demonstrating it can be done.
Can’t wait for part two!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Two tips. Kroil oil and spray the outside down with brake clean and blow it off good before ya pull the head off. Lol.
Man - those are the weirdest looking piston crowns I've ever seen! Loved the video - subscribed!
Thank you for subscribing. Those pistons will only work one way that's for sure.
Typical for OMC cross flow two stroke motors.
Super cool video. Helped me a lot. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Very intersting and useful project.. Let me add my two-pence worth, mixing in equal parts ATF and acetone will give you the best rust buster there is. You didn't mention it but I guess you used a new head gasket for the compression test as otherwise, the weak part of the gasket that had allowed water in the cylinder would have allowed the compression to escape. Mind you the compresion on the top cylinder was on the low side anyway so as you aptly said, this calls for a honing job..
Thanks for the tip on the rust buster. I will give that a try. In the salt water everything is rusty. No I had the old gasket on for the compression test. I was hoping for at least 80 psi. I might have been able to start it. I am not sure how low the compression can be and still start. I always used 80 as a bench mark. Thank for bringing that to my attention for next time. Stay Safe!!
@@OmFishing OMC won't say what is acceptable compression. I guess they rightfully figured that we would all use those highly inaccurate 20$ gauges and draft wrong diagnostics. I've tried testing with two similar gauges and got a 5 pounds difference. Still those gauges are very useful in measuring the % (forget about the exact numbers) of compression variance between cylindrers which is probably more critical in deciding on a restauration. From my limited experience (I've got 2 of those engines) and inquiring around, your typical 9.9-15 hp just won't start if compression is less that 70 # and at that level, will need a lot of cranking before coughing. Anyway, I'm really looking forward to your opening those head side plates so we may find about ths rings' condition and possible scoring on the pistons' sides. I'm quite positive on those results since the cylinders' interior surfaces seemed pretty smooth if not glazed. So, invest in a 2 1/4 ''' honing ball (much easier to use that the typical stones), new rings and top and bottom crankcase seals AND watch that compression skyrocket to 90 #. Thanks again !
Dunno if it’s co-incidence but your video is exactly 15 min as well! 👍🏻😎
Hi Om, I have a question? im replacing a powerhead on my 1963 Evinrude 10 hp with one I got on Ebay, will I get good results if I check the compression if powerhead is not mounted?
Thanks a lot for your answer. I changed the head cylinder gasket; however, I still with low compression just 50 PSI. Is it hard to change piston RIngs> DO you recommend it after overheat? do you have a video to know how to do it?
Check this video out
th-cam.com/video/78y-FzsSVFc/w-d-xo.html
Did you put a new head gasket on and retry compression ? Had low like that on mine and cleaned the rings real good with Kroil oil and a new head gasket and got an even 85. Low still but better than 50 and 65. Lol. I rebuilt it. Lol
Great video 👍thank you, did you have sprinkler system on? There was background noise.
No sprinkler, just hard rain. $250
Someone been tinkering and busted it...then sold as just stopped suddenly Ha Ha...sometime better if they didnt to try to fix..
Ive got a 1957 Sea King 5hp going to see if I can rebuild it.
Great let me know how it goes.
@@OmFishing will do
Another great vid sir. Look forward to part 2. What would have been an acceptable compression reading on a motor like that?
I am looking for around 80 psi I am not sure how low it could be and still start. I do know 80 will start and run. When it gets low it does make them hard to start. I would not try to start at 60 psi.
@@OmFishing I was curious because I got a 84 6hp evinrude I'm tinkering with that's reading 80 psi on both cylinders. Thanks again.
@@OmFishing my evinrude 9.9 1987 is 40 psi ... is that ok?
@@francimasaza8749 The compression should be for a two cycle motor between 80 to 140 psi. Over the years I have found the lower compression the lower the power. That is way we need to change the rings when compression is low.
@@OmFishing Thenks....
Very inspiring story. I asked a local shop if they had any older outboards laying around I could buy cheap for a winder project. Ironically it was an OMC 15 horse. Now researching to see what's missing. Any ideas for sorting out if I'm looking for the Evinrude or Johnson manual for it? It says OMC on the nameplate. Thanks!
When I rebuilt mine I bought the 1978 service manual for that motor. I found that one on ebay. Do you know the year of the motor?
@@OmFishing 2000
I’m checking out your store, and you
Might have it
Mate get it running and I rekon first col compression check will be around 100 psi after a 10 minute wake up run, dude, metal needs a wake up call, and piston rings get very sleepy, heat it up baby
PS: I'm surprised there was even a thermostat in there, most folks try to mask/cover up cooling issues by removing it, the wrong move indeed....And yes, the thermostat gasket was impropery installed, but at least it was there....Looks like there is some sort of helicoil insert in the lower plug hole also...
Thanks for watching and keeping me straight. I am going to post the next video Saturday. One of the reeds has broken off and was eat by the engine. Let me know what you think about the damage. I was thinking I would hone the cylinders and see how they look. I don't see any damage to the cylinder walls.
@@OmFishing OK, this is my third reply attempt....Pull the intake manifold off and have a look at the crank/rods for signs of rust. Sometimes a broken reed can create negative exhaust pressures that might explain the water in one of the cylinders. Pull the intake bypass cover off to have a better look at the piston skirts/rings. Then, I guess if it were mine, I would give her the 50 cent hone job with emery, reinstall the head and recheck compression...I just don't want to see you pull that powerhead apart and spend big bucks for pistons/boring/etc. If everything looks OK, but the compression doesn't come up/even out, then pull it down, hopefully a light honing and rings will rejuvinate it...Be sure to drain that gearcase also to make sure it isn't full of water....Good luck buddy...Don
@@fleetwin1 When I pulled the intake off the bottom rod bearings were sloppy. I took the cap off and the bearing fell out. I have another motor I was thinking of getting some parts off to repair this one. What do you think.
@@OmFishing Well, sometimes these bearings are normally a bit sloppy....How did the bearing/crank/rod journals look? Were they rusted/pitted? Well, I guess now you are committed to pulling this thing apart....
There are a few of us that you can buy a motor from an be assured it being as advertised. (I was at wedding- friend an bride's brother checked out my Jeep an opened up his checkbook!)(I put a Yamaha Venture Royal motorcycle in WA. St. Motorcycle show an saw a 3rd place ribbon placed on my bike! Guy pulled out his checkbook)(I added propane an 80gal tank to Chevy pick up for dual fuel then had a suspension put under it, an my friend Don bought it, pulled out his checkbook) my friend Kenny trailer pick up he sold to B. Willis in Oregon City when he was making movie in Portland area, cool!
I know your right. I think most people are honest. When I bought this motor the guy showed me how easy it turns over, not locked up. It had to be a trick with his hands. That motor had not turned over in years. I can live with it if he can. We are not going to label every body from just a few.
@@OmFishing you know I've discovered that that guys you want to buy stuff from turn out to be the Best Friends too! An vise, guys that treat their wives an equipment like cr#p turn out to be the ones you want to stay away from!
@@OmFishing I'm thinkin of guy next to us going to sell something that evening, he'd go out in morning pull plugs squirt some oil, replace plugs an crank away until he was happy to show it. But then again he slept outside in summer as kid to shot pellets at passing cars!
@@timbarnett3898 That is a true statement it goes hand in hand.
Dude thank you
Happy to help!!
Hi My friend, DO you know what is the torque for a Jhonson 7.5 hp 1980 J8RCSS model? and do you use a head gasket seallant?
I don't put any sealer on the head gasket. On my evinrude 6hp the book says 60-80 inch pounds.
I love all your videos so helpful I need help with a 1978 Johnson 35hp pls
I don't have anything that size right now. I have 6 hp 9.9 hp 15 hp 30 hp and 225 hp.
I just have a question
1978 Johnson 35hp will run wide open on muffs but in the lake it runs 4mph full throttle lots of new parts nothing help it
If you can help me I would very much appreciate it
@@mikechurch2359 I had a outboard like that. Everyone told me it was afraid of the water. I was toId that it was the power back need replaced. I checked the temperature switch to see if it was going into safe mode. In my case the problem was the float was not set right in the carb. When you give it gas the bow would come up. Change the float angle and it would shut the gas off. Bow come back down and the motor would get gas and idle again.
Thanks for the video. How do you know that a pressure reading of 60 is too low to run?
I use 90 to 100 psi and good. As the compression gets lower the outboard has less power. So 60 could run but not with the power of a motor with 90. I am not saying it will not run. A lot of times they get hard to start. You could have a lower compression motor that is very dependable. The rule of thumb it is low.
@@OmFishing Thanks!
Im doing a 40 Evinrude now 1999. What I was wondering is I know the piston says up which goes towards the flywheel. The connecting rod has a hole going to the wrist pin bearings. I had to change the pistons and was wondering which way the connecting rod goes? That wrist pin hole towards the flywheel? The service manual says it doesnt matter which way the connecting rod goes with that hole? Wondering if you would know that? I didnt mark it which I should have. Thanks
Yes the oil hole is up!
That is the way I do it any how.
Totally off topic but what temperature should the tell tale be on a 82 15hp Johnson? Mine is really hot but pee stream is decent.
Love your videos btw
That is a trick question. How hot is really hot! The thermostat does not open until the motor is 145 degrees. When you are testing the engine block for temperature you use a 163 degree melt stick. As long as it does not get that hot it is ok. I know if I put my hand in 140 degree water it is really hot to me. I hope this helped. Thanks for commenting.
@@OmFishing it's got a pretty weak stream also. I'm going to change the water pump assembly and thermostat. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos.
I have a 1986 15 evenrude the 2 bottom bolts on the head are seized up, what recommendation for loosing them up will u recommend thanks.
I use a heat gun and lots of patience. I all so use a torque wrench set for the proper pounds of torque for put the head on. This way I don't get heavy handed and break them off. Which I have done in the past. Even know we know better. Good luck.
@@OmFishing thank you so much, I learned a lot on your videos.
In Malaysia... Its so hard to get a new one spear part even Johnson or everrude... More of them collect the broken engine.. To be a part..
Are you looking for something?
Nice job brother, I just hope you didn't pay to much for the motor. Text me the price. Ouch! LOL.
Thanks brother Harvey
@@OmFishing we are all dying to know what you paid.
@@Knotrockets because outboard motors are not cheap
Do you have any spare Johnson parts?
Wait till we see how this motor goes I might have a lot of parts. What was you looking for?
Om Fishing pull cord assembly or a starter
I've got a Johnson outboard thats in pretty bad shape but it doesn't have any numbers nor can I see a id number on it. I'm having a hard time getting the shell off of it. I dont wanna break anything on it. It was given to me as a gift. Any help would be great. It just says Johnson on the side
Check on the engine block there should be a round plug about one inch in diameter. Those numbers will help you find the information about the motor.
Go feed the chooks mate
But I did run it that duck season and was ok
Oh, she's a crusty one for sure.....I guess my first concern would be where did the water come from? Is there an internal water leak, or perhaps someone just was running it with water in the fuel and threw it on the shelf to rust away....Try doing what I refer to as the " 50 cent hone job" with some fine emery on the cylinder walls...Crude yes, but it will clean most of the rust away and give you a better idea just how badly the cylinder walls are pitted. Maybe cleaning up the walls a bit will bring the compression up a bit and even it out between the two cylinders. If compression numbers remain low and the walls look "OK", try pulling the exhaust cover and intake bypass covers which will let you peak at the piston skirts/rings. Who knows, maybe you will get lucky, these things will fool us sometimes...If you commit to pulling the powerhead down, you will most likely face having to bore over and replace the pistons..I'm guessing you will find some pitted bearings and races also, which will make this project expensive. Be sure to drain the gear lube before going much further also, no sense doing powerhead work on an engine with a damaged gearcase. These earlier models were the best ones for sure, mostly because the powerheads and gearcases were rugged and reliable. I hope the 50 cent hone job works out and the gear lube is relatively clean, can't wait to hear this old dog fire up again!
Loose bolts equal bodger has been at work !!
This guy got a lot to learn. No matter he tried. Good news was he didn't waffle on about the weather. Unusual for Yanks
🤔🤔🤔🤔
Thanks for commenting and watching.
you should have bought a lawnmower lol
Boating or Mowing?????
Not looking good for the home team. LOL
The guy I feel bad for is the family man that is trying to get a motor so him and his son can go fishing. I did this for the video. I text the man on face book, he wanted to meet me in the church parking lot. He did a slight of hand and turned the fly wheel to show me it was not locked up. I took his word for it. That motor would have never started if.