DO's & DON'Ts - Picking a Subwoofer for YOUR vehicle!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- When building a custom car audio system an aftermarket subwoofer is a MUST. But it can be a challenge to pick a subwoofer when so many different options and sizes are available. What size subwoofer should we get? How many voice coils? 4 ohm or 2 ohm? Will the subwoofer be better in a ported or sealed box? In this video we look at the "Do's and Don'ts" for choosing a car audio subwoofer!
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Breaking things down into simpler terms for less experienced people is a perfect way to get appreciation from new viewers. Great video man!
i vote we call everything 'walmart watts' except for RMS. maybe then people will get it.
Best comment I've read in 2021.
As an former tech, I can tell Wal-Mart watts from what can be reported as RMS most of the time. There's a certain build quality required in high current capable amps. Anything worth buying is worth researching.
Wish watts seems more fitting
Hello I need help please somebody help me. I want to upgrade my factory sound on my 23 vw Taos but the person couldn’t take the dashboard apart or open it because he couldn’t unclip it and didn’t want to break it, please I need to upgrade it’s driving me crazy thanks
@@reyeselizabeth8948 then pay a professional....
I knew none of this when I built my own dual subs and wired my 1986 Honda Civic Si back in 86. I just wanted more bass and louder volume. It's a miracle I didn't blow my car up!
😂🤣🤣
I see a CAF video, I like it and then watch it.
You guys are the best! Thanks! 🤗
Same
@@filibertofonseca8083 5
I just did the same thing 😂😂
Facts
In the mid 1990's i did my homework and bought my first subwoofer.I bought a JL Audio 12W6 and i had it wired into 3 ohms in a sealed box and used a GENESIS Dual Mono at low gain to power it.The sound was musical,loud and very tight and i have not had to buy another sub and both the amp and subwoofer are still in use now! The JL needed to have its foam replaced but its been an amazing sub.I have just bought a car with a Bose system which has 2 'free air' (fires into the trunk) subs and they are loud but sound totally fluffy and uncontrolled....sealed enclosure anytime.
Genesis uk amps awesome
Most cars I owned had jl subs. 3 12w6 on Fosgate bd1500.1. It's life changing. Nothing else can compare. Sealed for the win
@@daviddeatherage4219 I had 4 x 15w6 in a sealed enclosure running off a huge class A/B Hifonics amp (forgot which one it was) and since then ive been forever trying to chase that sound quality. I recently got back into car audio after nearly 20 years and went with the JL 13W7 in a ported enclosure and HD1200/1 amp and im quite disappointed as its just not quite what I expected. Now im thinking of selling the 13W7 and replace with 3 x 12" more efficient subs
@@B15SDMDESIGNS I've always ran hifonics Zeus love em. But I am in love with 13w3s three of those put serious stretch marks in paint on quarter panels.
JL audio are jerks. I fell super in love with hs boyfriend. I had never had my skeleton shook as hard as his 2 12". No treble fancy stuff but the system blew my panties off.
*I must have this*. And I did.😊
Poop! I already chose my subs! Now I need a Do's and Don'ts video on building a time machine
Do NOT buy your flux capacitor from Wish.
@@mattrondeau7466 Dude....How did you know?😞
That was a great video👍I’m a retired Car Audio Specialist and just watched to check you out and very well explained to people in a very misleading market❤️I would add that the car is the biggest factor in the choice and only take a few test to determine the cars resonant frequency to get the best sub❤️Most people think I have a pair of 15” subs in my H2😂A simple 5 channel 1000 watt Fockford amp and a JL13w3 tuned at 25hz ported and will play smooth and bounce the wipers on low notes😂👍❤️30yrs at it and still got bass in all my rides at 53yrs old and love my music loud and clean👍
That's a nice combo. That type of system in a suv or a hatchback hits hard.
whats Fockford? 😆
My two 13.5w3 on a cheap 60bucks performance technique 3200w Amp. Was the closest setup to audio performance perfection 3 12w6on fosgate800.A2. I miss my youth
@@williamaraujo779 I think he misspelled Rockford , as in Rockford Frostgate
Back in the 90’s we called the ‘company rated power’ “I.L.S. POWER” (if lightening strikes) when we read the back of the box! Great vids!
I'm just now getting into stereo equipment and for the last couple weeks I've been going on a deep dive into car audio Fabrications channel I love this content I appreciate you making your content not only for advanced audio files but for newbies like me too it makes me confident that I can really continue to dive into my audio journey. Thanks for the great content keep up the great work
I have done the same I have my license suspended for the last two years and therefore I’m not been driving but I’ll be back on the road any day now and I’ve been binge watching car audio fabrication and planning my new car install.
I’ve been building speaker boxes for the last two years now to occupy my time and I’ve gotten pretty good at it and most of my success is thanks directly to this channel!
I was literally looking this up today, good job on updating the old video!
I've had similar videos but first time focusing on dos and donts for subs 🙌
@@CarAudioFabrication whoops, my apologizes
@@CarAudioFabrication keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for this very simplified video. After 3 decades I finally know what Ohms are and understand Impedance. I subscribed and look forward to gaining more understanding so I can build my garage sound system.
This is an excellent introductory primer and hopefully you have helped many of those who are new to the hobby from going to their retailer and just buying the loudest, most expensive subwoofer system they offer. The time you spend in planning your build, in learning the things you need to know about to make a good decision about what direction you plan to take and which piece(s) of gear will best get you there within the budget available to you will be rewarded later on with a superior system and, most likely, less money wasted on poor combinations of components.
Back in the late 90s / early 2000s I had 4 infinity perfect 12s in a Toyota Celica, 2000w rms, capacitor, built custom enclosures, removed the rear seat and built a ported wall with two 8 inch subs on it as well. Yes, it was loud and rattled all the sheet metal on that car, no matter how much dynamat I installed 😂
.... Now I'm an old fart missing the old days, a buddy gave me a powered RF punch all in one. Takes up hardly any space and it still HITS! I would even have to say if sounds cleaner than my old system, which was way more moving air than that small space could handle
Hey I have a Toyota celica.. don’t give me any ideas now 🐝 lol
@@interstellarM81 oh you should totally do it 😂 I had the long nosed 90s Celica
I'm 57, my car is rigged from 90's stuff. Of course JL audio control and soundstream. Enjoy it, especially summer.
I actually prefer powered subs for budget systems. If you just slap an 800w sub on a factory system it's going to completely overpower it and all you will hear is bass. A 150w powered sub stuffed under a seat is going to do a much better job filling things out. You're right on there.
Yea if u use a 1990s cat now a days new cars have decent speakers
@@jaygarcia6388no new car has decent speakers 😂
Usually I pay someone to do all this for me and with my budget I’m never happy but since I’ve been subscribed I have the flexibility of doing things on my own and saving money in doing so. This is the first time in 20 years that I have the sound I been wanting. Your video are great, thank you.
Do it yourself! I'm a 44 yr old chick who had to undo electrical damage to a 20 yr old vehicle.
No power to any audio. Some man said you can't run wires though the Firewall. Hey see that anaconda red power wire running there? I Did that and your shop has damaged my truck "he screamed you can't do that". Oh I did that 20 yrs ago.
This channel is advanced for me. I draw from college physics knowledge. Yeah I graded homework and labs. So I am a very academic person.
It makes me happy to see ppl rob me. They don't know they are gonna get a nice good shock from a cap. I just increased the power of things stolen.
Don't be afraid to try it. My Mentor would say "if you didn't do it right nothing happens. Still not going keep working. 20 retries probably 200 then you reconfig and it slaps.
My current build is overkill, but it's for SQL. I'm running 2 Fi Audio Q 18s and I love the way it sounds. They're in a 12.5 cubic foot box tuned to 31hz.
That isnt SQL lol
@@TylerTheBassCreator its also not overkill. its never enough bass damn it!!😈
Dude, it felt pretty advanced to me . 🤥🥴🤓. I Think if I watch enough of your videos, I’ll get a plan together. Not a lot of space in a 90’s air cooled Porsche 911.
You don’t need a high output alt unless your just running 10k watts going full tilt non stop! Just do what I did get you a giant XP3000 battery or two and some good double runs of ofc and a cheap charger and give your stock alt a break every now and then charging them and it works great. I got DC audio 2k and 175.4 and my lights never dim and my voltage never drops below 13.4! I don’t know how my stock alt is tiny but it works has for years now. 105k miles later and it’s all still going strong! I did replace my stock battery and changed Alt once but it was just due nothing to do with the system! I’m sure it shortened it’s life some but it still lasted 190k miles! Yea I always add battery’s till my voltage stops dropping but I never been over 400amps in a car either! But like I said 5-10k you might need one just to keep all the big battery’s charged but I bet I could do 5k daily and get by with stock alt long as I got plenty of reserve battery power.
This is exactly what I'm going to with my next installation.. Woofer and amp with good efficiency. Right size woofer with right size box. No more issues with car electrics.
The simple explanations, and plain english are much appreciated. I usually find more discouraging frustration. Three long paragraphs full of math and theory, then a short one that leaves ya more confused. Ya know the ones, that just as well be hieroglyphics.
I know you acknowledged this video as being a bit more basic for entry level, but I consider it to be a good refresher for those who "think" they are experts. IMO the Ohms law math stuff is pretty fun to do, I've done it for two personal projects, thanks for the info Bro :-)
yup thats me. this channel is a whole ass humble pie for me and reminds me i have a good bit more to learn for professional installs and good and clean work. im not cocky or anything its just sometimes i feel i know enough to get by, but then i watch this channel and i instantly rethink that 🤣 i love learning this stuff so its okay 🙃
I swear people who do math for fun are a different breed
"Competition Sub Woofer" = You'll be taking home the trophy for worst system.
My old school Fosgate 1100a2 and 3(12)HX3 from 1999 still sounds great
My son got the new Fosgate ⁉️🤔 I now it has more power than mine but don't hit harder than mine. I'v make my own boxes
sense 1993 so I kinda know what I'm doing.
AMP's got more power Now then Old.
I have a Memphis 6.5 Mojo under the back seat. I built a ported box using a box calculator, I have a audio pipe 2200w amp not sure the rms. But its plenty, with a good sound with the rest of my components. Turned up, my sps has hit 124 which is pretty impressive for a 6.5 now I know they're not exactly have the best rating that I love it.
Thank u so much 🥹🙏💕💐 people like you who explain beautifully over the internet, are the reason why people like us can understand and learn stuff, which we probably could have never learnt elsewise. So much respect and gratitude for you. 👑🤗
Feeling good about my dual IDMAX 12's
Awesome subs
Always use a couple 10s or 1 12 that'll handle at least 2000 watts rms, an amp no less than 2500 rms & you'll get the bass you want. Build the box exactly or barely larger than than the sub specs ported to anywhere between 40-30 hz & build the rest of the system around that. You'll be happy & you won't keep trying all kinds of different subs & boxes. These subs today behave correctly when powered at their rms or a few hundred watts more
@icon Actually he is. I mean, he's just being a goof.
Um dang I watched this video and I'm thoroughly impressed with the knowledge this guy has. I want a box 2 12 inch subs and an amp for under the back seats of my 2004 f150
Thank you for taking the time to put something like this together!
Spent 700$ on skar 10inch sub,
1500 to 1800 sub, got a box they recommend. 2000 watt to 2800 watt amp. 2000 watt cable and amp kits. 200 amp fuse so I overbuilt everything against the sub
I chose and built a 5 inch subwoofer for my 50w x 2 + 100 w subwoofer in my 1986 Porsche 944. sounds perfect for that car.
A whole 5" !! Holy smokes man! Now don't go blowing out your windshield
I’m glad I found this channel! Helped me alot to figure out that my 360W 10” hideaway sub has the same amount of bass or just a little less then my mums VX that has a 12” sub and 6x9s being run on 2 800w amps and a 1000w amp.
Man I miss my JL Audio 12w0 I had in the early 2000’s.
My son is almost old enough to drive and he’s going to get a surprise in his first car. Unfortunately JL is not available in my country so Rockford Fosgate Punch 12 will have to do.
I have 2 12 inch subs running 1,200 watts rms in a 2005 f-150, it’s a super crew cab so it has enough space to maybe even have 15’s
What’s your opinion on running 1 vs. 2 ohms in a subwoofer amplifier? 1 obviously puts the most strain on the amp but provides more power usually. But twice the power is needed to raise volume by only 3 dB. So clearly diminishing returns comes into play with respect to amplifier wattage. I feel like when the difference is 700 vs 500 Watts at 1 and 2 ohms respectively for example, the smarter choice is to run at 2 ohms for the longevity of your amplifier.
1 vs 2 only depends on Amp and can it handle it. Any time you drop ohms you increase watts less ohms more power but Only if the Amp can do 1 ohm
For those who don't know Mark from Car Audio Fabrication, get to know his channel. He's the most meticulous and thorough dudes. I would trust his work with my life.
I want the Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch sub because I want a lot of bass but, with very high sound quality. Get a 2000 watt 1 ohm amp and calibrate it to 1750 watts. Stock alternator, 0 gauge big 3, and build a custom sealed enclosure that fits like glove underneath the metal beam that is below the parcel shelf of my 2015 Camry.
I am a fan of fine and aggressive music since I assembled my first mazda rx-7 and I put some chrome rings on it, Momo brand, and you are a tough one installing and combining car music systems 🔥👌👍💯💪
Everyone needs to know these basics! Great video
Also worth noting that while they've always had all the hype, bass is not the be-all, end-all to a good sound system. Oftentimes cheap systems will not be crippled only in bass, but also drop some mids or highs as well- and a genuinely good sound system will represent the whole range!
While chasing bass can be fun, make no mistake, giant woofers a system do not make.
@joslewiswoodcarpenter5171 still going to need a sub....there are certain frequencies that smaller speakers just can't reproduce....there is a reason every good sound system has a some sort of sub....if u don't like too much bass throw in a smaller 8" sub
go sq and youll never turn back. also an average sq system will easily hit 130db 20hz up to 17khz so don't think that sq system will sound quiet and sharp with no bass
A big three should be done no matter how big or small your power draw is!! Along with upgrading the battery
4:44 I learned that the hard way... I had a top of the line SQ sound system with a Diamond Audio 800 wrms sub, powered by a 600 wrms amp, but i could never pushed it as far as it could go. And to make matters worse, it was a class AB amp, so less efficient than a class D... Nevertheless, it still sounded great.
my class AB 90's soundstream sounded much better than the amps today. Much of the subs today are better though.
My Alpine Type R 12" Sub Killing my hatchback STI And I LOVE IT
Seems like i've done everything wrong since i first installed my audio system.
- Powered everything through a 16mm² (5 gauge) wire, now a 35mm² wire (2 gauge)
- Burnt a couple of 50W speakers that were ill suited for my amplifier
- Bought two under-seat powered subwoofers. Works great but the bass doesn't go low enough and the volume isn't the same across the lower frequencies; it peaks at about 50Hz.
- Bought a 150W amplifier for a "1000W peak" or rather 200W RMS woofer, then bought another woofer because the sound level was too low
- Added tweeters to compensate, then changed the speakers because the tweeters sounded too harsh.
- Some components were rattling around
Now i have 4 speakers with near flat frequency response (according to the manufacturer) all connected to separate channels on a Pioneer amplifier, 2 under-seat subs, 2x 400W RMS subs in a homemade enclosure according to its specifications and matching class D amplifier, gains set correctly using an oscilloscope, a DSP,...
It still doesn't sound good but now it's good enough, and my hearing is worsening so i've got that going for me i guess...
Whenever i decide to buy a new car, i'm going to do things properly, i promise!
Ouch! I always splurge on one thing while stingying on the other, every time, dissatisfied with result.
You better be very careful on what new car you buy most of them are nearly impossible to upgrade the head unit because it's integrated with the can bus and HVAC. Some of it is supported in the aftermarket but not everything
When I first bought subs I had no idea what I was doing, spent all my money on subs and had no money for wires.. I wired 2 12 inch jbl subwoofers with an extension cord..
I love some SPL but as an older bass head I want that DEEP LOW BASS AND NEED IT TO PLAY ACCURATELY FIRST AND FOREMOST! It’s like…I’m impressed at an SPL competition but not my goals anymore…I need every song I listen to, to sound like the original recording.
Look at the Dayton audio stuff. They have kickass subs
@@blakebrockhaus347 I’ve heard never researched I do have two 12in kicker comp q’s they are supposed to be the best round SQL sub they’ve ever made
@@jerodjordan9570 oh yeah, comp Qs are great subs. But Dayton ultimax subs can effortlessly play below 20 hz. And it's also pretty fucking accurate. I've got a reference 15 in my car rn. It rolls off at like 28 hz, and if it was in a proper box it'd play down to 15.
Every don’t he mentioned I did in my current system 🤦🏾♂️ Definitely know what not to do next time. Good video
I'm trying to put together a Boss Triple 10 incher set. I hope my ported box and subs are a perfectly fine combination.
Please do a free air sub setup at some point! Thanks for the video.
YES PLEASE! IB Car Audio seems to be the forgotten choice. I just installed 2 Kicker marine IB subs and they sound amazing.
@@urbotay and the one
Loved watching your training videos for audio control at Best Buy! Got paid to watch caf!
the first point is something hard to explain but for my car i say that is the system that i want and when i need more space the chairs must go and so on
Can you just hook my car up? Lol
This video was very informative. Solid content! How would I determine the right size powered subwoofer such as watts rms that will pair well with my car speakers? I have 4 55 watt rms infinity speakers with an amp pushing 75 watts per channel.
Are there any more designs that would include both ported and sealed subs?
If so, does it sound good when combined? There are benefits and drawbacks for both but when combined would it make a more desirable output?
I appreciate your video. I have some homework to do. Thank you Angel from The Bay
Could you do a segment for people that don't want a subwoofer? What is the difference between a 8" subwoofer to a 8" midrange with these bullet cones and the old 8" full range with a whizzer cone? all I want to hear is what was recorded on the cd for classic rock! If the three above are quality and play say from 50hz and up. where would you want the roll off to be 5000-7000 hz higher? I don't want buzzing and humming and thumping what does this do!??
Highly considering purchasing a powered sub system for my next vehicle. Cerwin Vega hopefully in my future.🙃
i have there 7 band eq its freaking amazing
I was hoping you would talk about choosing a sub for in cab or in trunk.
I love my Kicker 10 inch powered sub! It fills my Camry with bass and isn't too much on the ears or the wallet
I love my level 6s
Thanks, I used Crutchfield in the 80's, I just went on just for information and they couldn't recommend a whole system for my porsche. So I'm heading to my local professional auto system. 🤙 Nonetheless great info.
Bro, I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to car audio. I've been watching your vids and I think I'm marginally more understanding of at least the basics. But I know way more than I ever thought went into the "thump" of car audio. Fuck it I'm saying thanks, that's all!
I build a small enclosure in my car in a side well. I tried to find decent smaller subs which were powerful enough, but they were just very low powered unless I spent 500 bucks, compared to the 100 for the slightly too large sub. not ideal but budget was the defining factor.
Youre going to be very limited with such a small space
@@TylerTheBassCreator I totally agree, but it's what I have to work with sadly.
@@TylerTheBassCreator yeah, highly unfortunate when both space AND budget are both small... Dealing with a single cab Ranger I daily drive and also take on 13hr road trips, not willing to give up any leg room or recline (as if those even have any)... You want a challenging build, THAT'S tough. No room for an amp below the seats either, so that also cuts into your available room. I think my box's exterior dimensions for width were only like 6.75" at the bottom and 3" at the top @ like 13" tall... Even a little CompC 10" needed a relief cut to fit. (I used 1/2" MDF since all the panels dimensions were under 12" internally except the length and I wasn't gonna be running a lot of power, and also I recessed the sub to be flush mounted since the seat was almost gonna be right up against it.) Good thing my truck only has the 2 door speakers, cause I had to remove the rear speaker grills and cover em up with the box, so having speakers behind there would've been almost pointless anyways...
And even pushing into some weird dimensions inside and such, I still only ended up with like 0.86-0.96 cu ft or something, since I had to use the space behind the passenger seat for the amp, and decided still I needed ported for max spl from little power, and so I extended the box panels all the way the whole width of the truck interior made a block off plate for the box as far as I could before the amp, and the had the port laying flat on the floor of the box and coming out the front passenger side, a sideways L port (might be improper length tbh, due to that), and then glued and stapled dense polyfil inside.
Other than the box, I spent $80 on FB marketplace for a used Kenwood amp and that CompC.
Hey bro this is the first time am seeing your channel and I learn alot from you. I have a 2011hunda civic and I want to know what is the right sobufer and power amp should .do l have to change the stock radio in my car?
Just some comedy here... Was looking for a blue tooth speaker for work.. was a review that said: the magnet on this isn't good. It's 5 inches. And only two ohms.. my pro audio friend is going to replace it with a 8ohm 8 inch magnet Wich will make it louder and sound better....🤣😂😂
My mercedes is getting 4× c2650x doors.
2 × 10tw1 in a custom box for the c class and 2× 300w Orion amps for the box and 200w amp also Orion for the midrange doors.
I'm leaving the stock Harman kardon rear sub and center channel in the dash.
The tweeters I'll probably leave HK or switch to a JL 100rms set of tweeters .
I'm upgrading the head unit to a Decent Kenwood and would like an old school actual 20 ban equalizer.
Was going to go with 2× 12" JL in a custom box but think 10s should be more then sufficient and the 10tw1 is a thin sub so the box doesn't have to be deep in the trunk and still thump hard .
Debating if it gets a forward facing box or old-school rear facing.
In the beginning when he is doing the math for the space, is he talking about the volume of the trunk or the enclose for the sub?
2:00 the American math is so funny to me 😂
I'm trying to understand car audio. For the subwoofer, I have a '93 Miata and I'd like to put one in the car. I'm willing to do custom work. Often times, I see people placing them in the trunk. But with it being in the trunk, isn't it completely closed off from hearing it? Or is the purpose of a subwoofer and its low frequencies is to create vibrations? Aside from that, I have aftermarket 4x6" Polk db462 speakers in the headrest enclosure (2 in each headrest). In addition to that, I have a Kenwood coaxial speaker in each of the doors. Lastly, I had also installed a Panasonic CQ VX5500 (to match a retro aesthetic interior). I'm wondering where to go from here.
1:32 What would be a better Subwoofer replacement for my 2019 Ford Edge Titanium with B&O system?
The sub was the part that took me the most research for a stock application. I needed something that would work with the stock wire (I did not want a sub amp. I know), fit in the OEM space and have room for the cover to be cleared. I also wanted something IN CASE I didn't like it and wanted or needed to add an amp. I needed an 8" and the settled on a Pioneer shallow mount, which really measures 7"...
After tuning for some time, I like it and if I ever wanted an amp, it can handle 150 watts, so that is fine too. However, it hits most lows on the stock amp, which is good enough. The aftermarket amp and high level speakers round out the rest and make everything rock.
I subscribed and Like and Comment,
Question what you think I should get for a good price on a 2018 Escalade Boss Man??
I have the subwoofers and the amplifier for the extended cab short bed early 94 Chevy Z71 Silverado new in the boxes 2 hed r series 7104s and the hed r series h7900.4 amplifier all cerwin vega hed r series, but then I ended up getting rid of the Silverado and got the 2000 dodge ram laramie slt quad cab long bed magnum V8 1500 4x4, and guess what it has way less air space so the box design which i was planning on getting a under the rear seat down firing box, and the same type of box the Chevy Silverado would use doesn't fit in the dodge ram.... so I never installed the subs and amplifier... Atrend,bbox, sound qube and qforms, and q logic ive had those brands except the q forms but I had considered them for several vehicles ive had,ive also had mtx, Rockford fosgate bandpass boxes, cheap Jensen and pyramid phase III gold series 12 inch deep hatchback full range sound subwoofer box, and a few cheaper options and whether people believe it or not they all are made different and sound different even alot of them were supposed to be similar setups
I got a 10” JL TW3-D4 it’s shallow mount so i figured it would be good under my back seat. I also got the JL JD500/1 amp. It’s in a sealed box firing down. I got the JL cage to protect it. I wired them to 2ohms to get the full 500W but the sub can only handle 400W RMS so I was told to keep the gain down a bit. Thankfully the amp has a red light telling me if it’s clipping. I turned my volume up to where my door speakers started to distort and then turned it down 2 notches. So 32 is my max volume, I then play a bunch of high bass songs and let them run through. If any of them made that red light come on I turned it down a bit. I think I have it where it needs to be but I’m still scared. I don’t want to blow that sub. I did the ohms x power (800) then I got the square root 28.28 and set the gain to that but it would still clip on certain songs. I have an oscilloscope but I’m not really sure how to use it 😂 I’m in a pickle man and I don’t know what to do. Does anyone have any advice for this amateur? I set the low pass filter to 80. And the bass boost is at like +11.. I have a remote knob on the way so I can turn it down or up thats why I love that clipping light but I’m still scared I’m going to blow it. I have a pioneer DMH-WT3800NEX head unit. It’s all in a 2011 Sierra Ext cab under the back seat.
Is there anything I can do to make it better or protect is more?
I mean I got it all working, steering wheel controls work, blinker/warning chimes work (they come through the radio in this truck). The amp and sub sounds great it smelled a little bit when I first got on it but I read that was normal and it went away after 5 mins.
All fine except the bass boost, turn that off or down.
Best subwoofer is the one you need for your music
In the 80/90s .
A 8" subwoofer we use for fast base like house music.
A10" subwoofer we use for music with have a what slower base like rock.
12" we use for r&b type of music.
15" its stupid best thing for real slow music.
This what we use in that time .
Do not forget that a subwoofers in that time is not the same like today.
Way to contradict yourself completely in the last line.
Would an ES 10” Sony sub in Rhino Lined box be a good pick? I was very happy with an 8” Rockford Fosgate in my last VW Cabrio.
I’m considering the 300 watt self amped Rockford in my recently purchased Cabrio, or the ES to hook up to a 5 channel DSP amp 100 watts per ch powering my 6.5 Sony ES speakers, tweets, and some filler speakers in rear side panels (trying to figure out what will fit).
So I understand the concept of measuring your available air volume to choose the size of sub but...
I have a first generation Honda Fit. The boot is not closed off to the restnof the car, meaning I have available the air volume of the entire car I would say. Should I get the air volume of the whole car, or disregard the rest of the car and only measure the boot area?
It depends on the space you want to use for the subwoofer. The point I'm making in the video is guys won't measure at all before buying. They might have a space that is 30 wide by 15 deep and 15 tall and they get two 18s.... ummm yeah... that's not going to work. Gotta take those initial measurements into account.
In this video he is speaking about the airspace the subwoofer would need for a box and if you have the room in the space you are putting the box in will fit.
Measuring the entire car interior airspace would be to account for cabin gain. Which would be a whole other can of worms.
I couldn't figure out how to get my sub to fit in my Avalanche so i made a box out of a 5 gallon bucket. I may be loosing out a lil bit.
I'd never really look at sensitivity as a determining factor when choosing a sub. Hoffmans iron law states that you can have 2 of the following 3 things, but not all 3. High sensitivity, low bass and a reasonable sized enclosure. If you want high sensitivity and low bass, you'll need a huge enclosure. If you want high sensitivity and a small enclosure, you won't get low bass. Everyone wants low bass and smaller enclosures, which rules out high sensitivity. Any typical car sub worth a shit will have real sensitivity in the lower 80's. With a cars cabin gain and cheap amplifiers, sensitivity doesn't even matter.
Sensitivity is extremely important if your vehicle's electrical system is marginal and you have to account for every last amp your amp generates. It also matters to the bump, bang and shatter their windows crowd trying to achieve high SPL levels (obviously I'm not one of those). But high sensitivity is always a good thing if the tradeoff to obtain it isn't an issue. For example, consider an internal baffle subwoofer. Obviously the enclosure size isn't an issue so sensitivity might become an attribute of much greater interest, no?
I need a perfect fit for my Kia Stinger Back left trunk area. i hate losing space so looking at 8inches in me. No stealth boxes were made for my vehicle
Over all leaving out budget what powers underseat subwoofer would you go for???
What about size gauge for the subwoofer? From the adapter to the subwoofer
I want to use small subs for my jeep wrangler where do I start measuring from and I always have the doors and roof off.
Funny thing is, every professional sound shop I've been to don't measure airspace or do any of that at all. When I ask they act like they don't know what I'm talk"n about.
The ones I've talked to just use standard box specs based on the driver(s) they sell you and how many of them you're putting in. They knock out their sub boxes *very* quickly.
You really Love JL Audio. May I ask why ?
High quality gear that is reliable and designed by real engineers here in the USA, with many of the lines also being built in the USA. This isn't just some manupackager hiring a build house picking random parts to go together. JL does real R&D and has tons of proprietary tech. Also I've used them for a LONG time. Long before I started the channel, I've always had a good experience
Sir i want to upgrade my baleno hatchback car. I am confused whether i should go for underseat or subwoofer? I want low deep bass, it doesnt need to rattle my doors. I do not listen to loud music especially
03 Denali yukon xl with no third row seats best bang for buck window breathing system want to do something different please and thank you
Great information, Thank you!
Mark, what computer programs do you like for designing subwoofer boxes and speaker adapters?
Hi, i bought four 10W7s from another store and now i want (demand) you put them into my regular cab dodge ram.
Budget is ~$250. Ill pick it up at 5.
Thanks
89 Sedan DeVille (the "baby" DeVille), single 15" Sundown U-15 D4 running at 2ohm(1500w conservative RMS) wired to a Sundown SFB3000D(2000+w certified RMS at 2ohm), 250amp alternator, big 3 in 1/0ga ofc, power and ground 1/0ga ofc, 8ga ofc speaker wire, XS Power D3400 battery, 3.2cf enclosure ported to 32hz..... everything is gained and set correctly.... sounds like sheet. Same sub and enclosure but on a little Skar RP800.1D(so about 500w RMS at 2ohm) in my 02 Civic Si hatch (yes I know, hatch vs sealed sedan) absolutely destroys and is very musical....I was trying to keep my trunk in the DeVille somewhat usable, hence only going with one 15 in that 3.2cf enclosure, but damnit man, I'm getting frustrated (I initially had a single Sundown SA-8 D2 V3 on that Skar amp in there and it was clearly not enough, except at like 30hz, so I out the 8" and 800w amp in the Civic and bought the 15 and 3k amp for the Caddy). Help 😂
That's really super, super girl.
JL Audio subwoofers for shure
What would I need to shake the foundations of buildings when putting a system together for a 2019 ram 1500 truck?
These are really helpful videos. Thanks.
I want something like it helps Voice and bass more. Any recommendations?
I have a 18 in my sedan in a ported box. Would your recommend I just say screw it and wall the trunk and drop 2 in
I had 8 memphis pr 15s and decided to upgrade to 8 memphis m3 mojos and I think the cheaper pr 15s hit harder.
So is it weird if I run a 1000W Kenwood amp with a 12inch Skar 1600W 800RMS sub?
I have a Prius and I'm seeing all sorts of don'ts. What's the proper way to install a good sound system without doing any mods or adding batteries?
Prius has a 12 volt system on it but not sure if the recharge on car can handle the extra draw. They made a cross over with the 400volt system for that car so you can use Amp off the big battery, but if you don't know what your doing you can kill your selve fast with 400volt DC, someone made it and I don't remember who sorry was long time ago I saw it
What system would you recommend for a 2015 Honda Accord? Been years since I had systems in my car and I want something that sounds clean but also bumps. Thanks!