One areas you are going to want to put sound deadening material is on the roof of the Jetta, I have the exact same car there is a wood board up there that will rattle with any bass. May be worth it to do a video on how to drop the headliner and such.
@@robnation2475 I do that and have been trying to get my wife to do that for years. Common sense. She doesn't get it. That loud rattling drives me nuts.
Now this is sound proofing. Most installers I have seen only slap a few strips here and there, mostly behind the speakers. Obviously some things are budget based, but I think this is the real deal. Not just two strips on your boot lid.
I did this on a 2005 Ford explorer. It made a huge difference. Not only for the rattling, but the road noise and ride quality was drastically improved. The whole vehicle felt like it was better built and felt more “premium” than stock. It took me almost 2 weeks to complete though. What a pain in the ass! But well worth the effort!
I replaced my head unit, and ran the stock door speakers for a couple days . . they rattled and buzzed like crazy! I was a bit nervous to put my new speakers in but, when installing them I put sound deadener on the inside of the door, I put foam on back of the speaker magnets, a foam ring around the speaker, and used this foam tape that goes around where you mount the speaker. After watching this video, I will admit I did not do anything to the back of the door panel so, I will be doing that on my next day off! Anyways . . It now sounds amazing! I am very impressed, full volume and no buzzing or rattling! I now have my amp and subs intalled, an d I have not done anything in the hatch yet so, the subs are creating some rattles in the back. I plan on doing that here real soon, and can't wait for the results! This guy is very awesome! His work is very beautiful!! I really enjoy, and appreciate these videos!!
UPDATE: If you are having trouble watching this video TH-cam is currently having issues worldwide. I have found that if you are on mobile and tap "click to retry" a couple times the video will load. Please reply here if you can see the video now! This video has a TON of detail on the full process of sound treating the doors, interior, trunk etc. Be sure to come back and watch!
I did that and more to my SQ build I did a few years ago. I siliconed any seams in the doors, and did 3 layers of deadener, then a layer of closed cell foam. Those doors were solid! Then I did carpet padding too under your feet, and got the whole vehicle undercoated, so you didn't get any vibration in the floor. Some SQ competitors will do even more. One guy had a couple hundred pounds of clay in the footwells of his regular cab pickup! Once they get into the clay or sand, in addition to the dynamat type materials and closed cell foam, then you know they're serious, haha. It's probably the #1 way to improve a system.
I own an 06 honda civic lx sedan. The owner before me had a lot of road noise so he installed a shit ton of expensive sound deadening material throughout every nook and cranny of the car. Definitely helps with road noise and definitely helps with audio quality
14:10 The owner and founder of Hushmat spent about 45 minutes with me at a training (yes, I had tons of questions). As a degreed acoustical engineer, he said that there is no benefit above 75% panel coverage. When he was designing noise control packages for several OEMs, he had access to sophisticated measuring equipment to verify this. He further said that shops that cover 100% of a panel only do it out of fear that the client will think he is getting ripped off. Exceeding 75% adds unneeded mass to the vehicle. Dr. Porsche famously once said “weight is the enemy”.
... and Mr. Colin Chapman said to "simplify, then add lightness". If only the manufacturer(s) covered 50% of the (floor) panel vs the 20% (or less) they typically do, I think we'd have better interior car environments across the board; not just in Lux brands like Lexus, Infinity, BMW, etc., etc.
@@jonellwanger7258...to a certain (small) extent. There's way more to a luxury car than 30% more sound deadening/absorption material. Thats just covers the noise/environment aspect inside the cabin. There are still many more areas of the car that elevate it to the luxury level (something Mazda is attempting to do) such as the feel/driving characteristics, touch points, materials used, semi-exclusivity, technology, and even person-to-person interactions at the dealership.
Around 5-6 years ago now the first time I did this sound deadening jazz I went way over the top. Pretty sure I went through 7 of the Dynamat megapacks, well over 100kg of dynamat. I double skinned the outside door panels, single layered both sides of the inner metal fab on the door. Used some tin or something and cut sections for the service ports and 2 layered up the 2 largest ports on the inside of the panel using the smallest remaining service port to do so, the last port was double or triple layered only from outside along with the 2 largest. Completely stripped the interior and boot of the sedan and single layered the floor with dynamat and then applied dynaliner. The entire parcel shelf has dynamat single layer on both sides with dynaliner cut and shaped for premium fit. Entire boot is single layered. At the end of it and particularly the doors my hands were a mess. Everyone comments on the lack of road noise in the vehicle. I run 2 Hertz SX300Ds in a CAF designed 42hz ported box off a RF 2500BDCP gains set 2000w RMS @ 50hz. Digital source all the way to Bit Ten D, gain structure is optimal. When tuned right and volume set correctly they are awesome, the transition to the mids is excellent. To this day a rattle I have not found. I suppose that is an argument for going over the top with sound deadening.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the subwoofer blueprint designed box! There is definitely nothing wrong with going over the top, I just have received a lot of feedback in the past that tells me people think they have to spend the "high end" budget in order to even begin to see benefits which is not the case. Even an "entry level" amount of treatment goes a long way. Of course it won't be the same as the "high end" but every budget achieves a different end result.
@Reflect744 hey mate, aussie here too (obviously). The issue with thicker matting is getting door cards back on etc. Clips n screws are long enough to take up the extra space. For the boot, roof and bonnet area, it's perfect though.
im only 1 min in. but i remember watching you like two years ago when you were redoing your own small cars. this channel has gotten so much better! stoked for you dude!!!
Sure isn’t many questions after watching this video. Be careful and take your time. Getting in a hurry will cause more frustration down the road. Really good job explaining what to look for and not overdoing it. Great job Mark! Tah dah! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
16:38 One noise control measure you do NOT see in this VW (for cost reasons) are STUFFER BLOCKS, found in BMW, Mercedes-Benz, etc. - shaped blocks of grey closed cell foam OR dark grey polyester fill, like firm pillow stuffing. The latest version of this is NOISELITE, similar to THINSULATE used in cold weather jackets. When you work on a Hyundai Palisade you will see a small piece attached to each kickpanel.These stuffer blocks trap airborne noise as it moves around, not to dampen panel vibrations. We attack 2 kinds of noise: STRUCTURE-BORNE NOISE and AIRBORNE NOISE. The materials that stick to panels kill structure-borne noise (vibrating metal & plastic). The closed-cell foam used in SoundShield kills airborne noise that propagates into the interior from vibrating panels and other noise sources. You need to address both “sources” to be effective. In addition to these materials, I have started using stuffer blocks in my project cars. There are two more techniques I use that are more esoteric, inspired by Rolls-Royce.
I believe this is why he has labelled it as a ‘mid’ level upgrade. Most car audio garages in Australia will put butyl matting, then cover with focal hushmat or other similar closed cell adhesive back matting. Some even use mass loaded vinyl underlays to reduce road noise from the floorpan
Ok i must say... holy crap. Ive ran 2 JL w6v2 10" for 7 years in my ctsv. Always sounded great. 2 weeks ago I watched the video and did the exact same treatment 4 days ago. Same material. Now I run a single 12" w6v3 and upgraded the door speakers with focals on the factory hu. The installation took 6 days (I have a daily driver). Not only does it sound louder with 300 less watts but the clarity is crazy. Added just shy of 45lbs but saved 66lbs with a rear bumper brace replacement. 1300 bucks later (including bumper brace) I weigh less but sound day and night better. I wish I had a channel so people understood this difference.
You do have a channel, friend! You can upload any videos you want at any time. I know you know this, but I just want to let you know it again. I'm glad your awesome CTS-V sounds better and is even lighter than before, what a wonderful vehicle.
@jgizzy I know I can post a video on here but I don't have a channel that is out there for comparison videos. I don't have any befores anyway. Or a gopro lol I'm old. I'm doing an evo x right now that if I get my funds right will be done this summer. Since I haven't tore anything apart I thought about doing a forum picture guide. A video on here might be worth the time. Anyway I bought another w6 for a magic box but I'm thinking I want to try sundown. Do you have experience with these to compare the 2 brands? I'd like to keep weight off the evo but even with the stock rocksford sub, the trunk lid is sounding crazy. So I'll have to atleast soundproof that.
Good to explain how the Decibel scale works for your audience. Some content creators are very disappointed that the only achieved a 3db change which is really eliminating half of the original sound.
Hey Folks, don't forget that if you're running old tires or if they aren't inflated to spec, you could be introducing a huge amount of noise into your car. Most likely more audible noise than you would be able to eliminate through any amount of sound deadening.
So, I got sick of having a factory stereo and started watching your videos. You are a savant when it comes to your trade. Truly impressive! If I had the financial means I’d have all my cars sent to you. The audio equivalent of Rembrandt.
That 4 panels off at once is brilliant..I always thought I was saving time by doing one at a time..then life happens and don't get to the other ones as quickly then......
for those playing at home and are probably doing a one off job. instead of buying the plastic roll to make templates, you can simply stick scrap paper together with painters tape to get your large surfaces, and all the finer edges, use folded over painters tape. then simply use a sharpie/pen/pencil to mark your shape out, then simply cut it out. the benifit id, if you stuff up an area you can simply stick more paper/tape to that area, retrace and recut. Then simply lay thr template onto the deadener, trace with a pen, cut with some quality sewing scissors! For trim clip, wiring clip, threaded hole areas etc, i usually fine a suitable object to use as a one size fits all template. For example, a simple trim clip hole in the door sheet metal, ive used a large flanged nut, even a glue stick lid, to trace a nice clearanced circle on the sound deadening, then simply cut it out with a razor blade. This way i get a consistent hole size template that will work for 99% of the trim clips i encounter within the vehicle.
You definitely know by now but those are actually two part clips. You unclick it once then pop it out. When you reinstall you line them up and click them in it pops the prints out. They also have that thin rubber the decouple. You did this vid to late I half hacked my Jetta in January. Still happy with my result but plenty of room for improvement. Gonna use this series. Thanks for what you do!
Great video, learned a bit. Although I’ve learned allot from all your videos. I finally at 40 have gotten to build me a moderate system. As I’ve been adding, fine tuning and such I’ve referenced your videos many times, much appreciated. Been wanting to do this on my doors, back cargo area and the cargo door cause theres allot of rattling in the cargo area. But that stuff isn’t cheap. When you have a wife, adult daughter, grand-baby that your financially responsible for. Also a son thats on his own but still needs a couple hundred bucks every month or two it’s a little tough. I wouldn’t trade it for the world though, im very proud I’m able to, but things like this go on the bottom of list. The next thing I want do is build a custom box for my American Bass XFL 10” sub, in a prefab at the moment.
So cool brother. I got a Kia Rio shit box that dones 294,000 KMs and still runs perfect. I'm going to do this. I've had an S500L Mercedes and my wife has an AC Schnitzer 540i. The sound in these cars was amazing. The Kia isn't a Mercedes but I can make quieter inside. Cheers from New Zealand. 👍😎
thanks you got me going in right direction i have 3 layers on my lexus doors the whole floor the whole trunk including wheel wells, soon im doing back seat wall and roof, huge difference and trunk, keep inspiration going bro !!
I love your videos! Very educational and inspiring for those of us who want to learn something new. I drive for a living and road noise is my daily nemesis! I experimented with my 2018 Nissan Titan I just purchased last month. It does have all terrain tires and I did expect it to be a little louder on the highways because of them. I used a decibel meter to measure how many decibels it was at 60 mph. Which it was about 65-75 db levels. I had to replace a blown speaker in the passenger rear door. So, I decided to upgrade and add some sound deadening material as well. I just finished everything yesterday. The sound level is exactly the same, but the radio sounds awesome and I definitely do not have to turn it up as high to hear it even with the road noise. I think I need to treat the wheel wells, firewall and possibly the floorboards. But that will be a whole new adventure for me! Thanks again for all of the great videos!!!
I went to the junk yard and disassemble the entire interior of a Lexus LS 400 to take a look of what type of materials they use to make such vehicles so quiet and virtually noise free … probably you vehicle has three times de amount of sound deadening rubber material, they use different lighter materials , particularly the doors , no mention that make the vehicle heavier affect the fuel economy and acceleration 🤷♂️ materials like “Dynamat” prevents rattling but not isolate noise. However it was a nice job 👍
I used to do car audio installation back in the early 90s to 2005. A lot has changed but the most important parts have stayed the same. Sound deadening is one of the most important parts of an installation but also one of the most neglected. I know it doesn't seem like it but I had spray on sound deadening material that I used on my 1994 Dodge Dakota. I removed all of the interior, sanded and primed the whole interior and used the spray in deadening material over the firewall, floor back panel, roof, inside of the doors and the inner door. Then I used Dynamat insulated mat for the floor and firewall and the regular for all other areas. I noticed you using Audio Control equipment. I used that as well. I had the ESP2, Epicenter, 4XS and 2 EQTs for for my four way system. I had USD Waveguide A series, Diamond Audio 6.5 in the kicks, Diamond Audio 8s in the doors and 4 IMPP Pioneer 12s ported through the bed. For the USDs I had a Punch 60, for the 6.5 I had a Punch 100, for the 8s I had a Punch 100 and the for the 12s I had a pair of Power 50Ms. I wish I had a photo of the inside. But I only have a photo of the bed where the Amps were located.
Funny enough i too had same vehicle. I never did any sound deadening and i never really noticed all that many rattles running 2 rockford fosgate t 1 12 inch subs powered by a 2k watt amp, with the subs firing towards the back. Also never had any headlight dimming either.
Thanks for the tutorials, very thorough and easy to understand. Going to do my first DIY sound treatment on my '01 Highlander next weekend to bring those new Kicker KSS6504's and KEY amp soundstage to it's full potential! I already converted the rear 5-1/4 setup to a component 6.5" with tweeters mounted high and angled to the listener. Already sounds 1000x better than what the previous owner had, but I want to maximize my midrange upgrade since I can't go nuts like I did before with an insane system and lose my "dad cargo space"...lol...Anyway first time doing all this, it looks professional and clean so far, and your videos really help, my friend. Appreciate all your hard work. 👍
"Circuit City Roadshop this is Brian, how may I direct your call?" Mark, I long time viewer here. If you couldn't make the connection I'm old, as opposed to this "oldschool" thing that these kids use these days!!! I usually just watch to affirm the fundamentals of car audio. Anyway, i dig your simplistic, yet effective teachings. I know a couple legends in the industry. Some things never change!!! We tend to travel in small yet, fantastic groups!
This is a MID-LEVEL sound deadening upgrade?! For anyone wondering like I was: Six rolls of SoundShield - 6 x $119 = $714 Two rolls of SoundShield Slim - 2 x $59 = $118 Roller - $10 Punch Kit - $18 Clear Transfer Tape - $30 Utility Knife - $20 --------------------------------------------- Total - $910 So all in all for this "mid-grade" sound deadening treatment, you're looking at a total investment of $910 before you have invested a single minute of your time into a project like this.
Use killmat I used it in my Honda it wasn't much I used 3 boxes or 150sq ft. For my 2 door coupe. 50mil and 80 mill were used. Double in the trunk and on the roof
I have an 18 inch sub box taking up the whole back seat. And my car is completely gutted. It sounds awesome. Very loud. Louder than it was in the Escalade.
Installed 80 mil sound deadening in my truck this weekend. Amazed at the level of outside noise reduction. I don’t have decibel level measuring equip. However, it’s extremely noticeable.
Sweet you did a Jetta, I’m gathering parts for a simple lc1.800, idmax12 in a down4sound 1.8 cu/ft ported box in my mk7 Jetta gli. This is my first go at anything audio related, I’ve always been more of a go fast guy. Thanks for all your videos!!
Bringing back my worst nightmares of doing NVH repairs at Chrysler. Spending all day to fix every rattle and buzz you can find for the customer to not even know it was there. Next to water leaks, the NVH complaints were the worst. It has affected me so badly, that in my own vehicle I won't take easier roads to work because I don't want to develop rattles from bumps I can avoid. I drive my old chevy silveraydo then get in someone else's vehicle and cant stand all the noise. I spend the whole ride trying to find out where that noise is coming from.
I did the entire cab on my regular cab truck. I’m running 2 12” JBLs on a 1000W Alpine amp, and JBL rear speakers, 4 Skar 1.75” super tweeters and JBL door speakers. About to upgrade the door speakers to some DS18 250w rms speakers on a 1000w kenwood amp. This stuff helps so much!! You can feel the bass in your chest now
Very cool, sounds like a fun system for sure! I always find it interesting when people show off how much their car is vibrating, and I just think... "all that vibration is lost energy" stop the vibration and get more output!
@@CarAudioFabrication exactly my thoughts! The vibration in a 25 year old truck is no fun either 😅. I really need to pull the door panels and put some material on them as well. Should I do some on the firewall do you think?
You can put it on the firewall but the majority of the noticeable improvement will likely come from the doors. If you find the engine drone annoying in that case start treating firewall.
Thank you Mark, thanks to your Link I was able to buy the transfer tape for my Ford flex SQ System. I really appreciate it. Not a lot of installers like to share information on the tools they use but im glad you still continue to show us the secrets to car audio. I'm just a DIY guy for my own car audio projects but appreciate you a lot. Thank you my bro! 👊😁
I'd like to expand on something you said quite a way through the video (when you were in the trunk). You mentioned about identifying areas that may need 'help' by looking at where the OE has put sound deadening. This is 1000% CORRECT. No matter the make of car, those squares, triangles or odd shapes of material DID NOT get there by accident. As a Professional Automotive Engineer of 40 years, I can tell you that the OEs put a lot of effort into identifying where to put sound deadening to get the best possible sound reduction to remain competitive (in segment) for the least amount of cost and weight (for weight read 'fuel consumption). Exactly as you said about the diminishing law of return - the OE is looking for the biggest bang for their buck. So, as was mentioned (very much 'in passing'), start by adding to what is already there, particularly if you're on a budget.
I just want to thank you for all your car audio tutorials. I will be working on sound deadening my 2012 Silverado single cab, looking forward to end result.
Thank you so much for the valuable insight on sound deadening. You're an awesome teacher! Great job @Mark. I followed these instructions and wow! It did make a really big difference in the sound output from all 4 doors (JBL 6"-RL & RR, 6x9" FL &F R)
On the door near the top you put it on the backside of the panel but not on the door because clearance. Maybe this is just nitpicking but wouldn't you have a better result putting it on the metal instead of the panel? I feel like the metal would resonate vibration and road noise more than the inside plastic panel
It also sounds quieter in the vehicle when the music is off. I’m gutting my Fiesta ST in the spring and giving it a deadening treatment like this. Might do the roof as well.
I was thinking of doing that to my suv but after watching videos of how to remove the headliner I concluded that its a total nightmare can of worms. Also my second row seats come with red loctite on the bolts from the factory, theres no getting those out. Your videos are always informative and entertaining to watch either way. :)
The seat bolts WILL come out, even with red Loctite. Use a really long ratchet and spray WD-40 as soon as a couple of threads are visible. The bolts are made to be removable during repair.
This is a CRAZY good video. Making me consider removing the carpets--only thing stopping me is the very strong lack of desire to remove the seats lol. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
If it’s the seat removal that’s scaring you off of removing the carpet, chances are you aren’t ready, because seats are very easy to remove compared to the rest of interior
Hello Very nice 👍 ! I’m a tattoo artist , I love music , custom is what I like to do . I never done any custom on the trunk before . Few week ago I start playing around piece by piece using what ever I have . It’s not done yet a lot of people around my neighborhood thinking I’m crazy or something. I be in front of my apartment Sweating they wondering wth this man doing Lolzz . It’s almost there . Thank Mark for many excellent idea .
Before I did you tube and had to figure out things for myself I spent a day sitting in the trunk of my car with a tube of liquid nails and a roll of tape playing my stereo and searching for rattles
So I finally checked out the vid... thanks for all your detail. Two questions I have: 1. With the skins, can it be installed in 50 degree weather? 2. The trunk treatment, is it recommended to leave the gray pieces already on the surface in place? If it was an older car, would you scrape those pieces out prior to install? Thanks!!
So roughly $900 in materials is mid level? I guess high end would be 5 figures...great video and I like how you started it with tackling the economics of it.
@nectros8452 $900 is not a lot for audio. That's about $125 per door and a $250 amp. You'll also need a line out converter to connect the amp, an amp wiring kit with a decent fuse, and new speaker wires to the doors.
I used 80 mill killmat in my Rigid polished stainless steel shop vac. Did the underside as well, and yeah man, it has a much more solid feel, and no Tin-Cabny type sound... Sound Deadening is as important as correct wire gauge
One nice demonstration would be hearing a before and after sound shield comparison of slamming the car door closed. I would imagine there would be a significant difference in noise. Great video.
I actually tried capturing that on camera but it doesn't do it justice. Definitely a noticeable difference. Feels like you are closing a much more solid vault.
@@CarAudioFabrication I remember the days when I sold VW the door closing was an important selling feature. I really enjoyed your video, it was really informative. I feel much less worried about tackling the project myself.
Thank you sir for your awesome videos, your knowledge, your finances, and your dedication to car audio. Very inspiring I know I'm getting very accurate very detailed information when I watch your videos.
I'm willing to spend the money if it makes a difference. I'm not only chasing amazing audio but also less road noise (I have a base model Accord). Any suggestions? I was going to buy the 64.5 sqft roll of SoundSkins Pro Plus but I don't know if it's too much/not enough for 75% coverage. I'm planning this project like a year in advance so I can get everything perfect.
Bro, you’re gonna start seeing me all over your comments because totally love your work and you’re helping me and my friend start something good we too just like you started at a young age. My question now is when I see your videos behind you I see all that black acrylic plastic and I know what you’re using it for Lines and curves in your designs and what not where are you getting that material? Are you making yourself or is there a place you can order it. I’m constantly looking around trying to find items like that so I can get that inspiration or make those crucial lines for a build, but it would be easier if there was just a place I could order those stencils from thanks bud. Keep up the good work.
You do a great job of explaining how and why you apply sound deadening material to improve the overall sound within the cabin. Could you touch on how to sound dampen performance and/or aftermarket exhaust systems? A lot of performance or more aggressive sounding exhaust systems sound great during drives around town or short trips on highways, but those same lovely exhaust tones can become tiring during long road trips. In this video, you mention "entry level" and "mid-range" materials but do you have any product recommendations or tips for how to heavily dampen certain locations of a vehicle (i.e. rear/trunk flooring surrounding the muffler(s) or firewall between the cabin and the engine bay)? Thanks in advance!
Wow, this stuff is not cheap. Hadn't really planned on spending 800$+ just on sound deadening alone! Probably worth it though. What makes soundshield that much better than cheaper products such as KILMAT? also is it worth it to install under the headliner? Taking it out anyway
I would like to see a video showing what a very minimal use of sound deadening is used and where to place it. Someone told me to place patches on flat surfaces only. I have a 2019 Forester Premium (lowest trim level) with speakers in the dashboard (tweeters?), front doors and back doors. Is this considered a 6-way speaker system? Anyway, I’d like to try installing some sound deadening to quiet exterior noise.
Based on my experience, it doesn't have to be expensive to have a good quality sound. Also, if you put too much sound deadening, 1) it makes the car heavier which will need an "extra" gas for mileage 2) Sometimes, too much sound deadening creates a "vacuum" silence that for some sensitive people, is painful in the ear, probably due to the pressure created inside the car 3) We are on the road and we must concentrate on the sound on the road and less on the music/entertainment system which is dangerous if we get carried away too much because we focus more on the music. ... Creating a good sound system is more about matching the components and it doesn't have to be expensive.
I just found your channel today, 11/19/2022. I wish you were around 25 years ago when I first started stereo installation for my cars and home. I made many of the newbie mistakes you talk about, some even worse lol. Thankfully I did improve and got pretty good at it, but damn dude you're good!
Great video! Will be doing deadening and heat insulation on my truck soon to take care of some extreme floor heat from the exhaust and hopefully taking out a lot of road noise. This video has given me a lot more ideas for my loud center console too.
I have no doubt that SoundShield is a top tier product, but one thing I can't stand is manufacturers that use very EXPENSIVE packaging with advertising for their product. Those tubes with the printed logo (advertising) is probably the most expensive way there is to package that kind of product! Every time you buy it you are throwing away money because of their decision to package it that way. For that reason alone I will use another product out of protest of their executive decisions. As an installer you already know how good their product is, so why do you need to pay for it every time you buy it? All it does is increase the cost to your customers without any value in return.
OMG, It's the man they based the zucc android on! Great advice, thanks for the video. I'm about to do a jimny gen 3 but I'm quite a limited budget. Not sure I'll have enough to do all the panels but I'm going to do all the biggest flattest ones I can in the speaker cavities. There are HUGE cavities at the back that resonate even with 4" speakers.
What do you think about creating a custom subwoofer box through the ski hatch and another woofer faced back, front or to the side (dependig on what looks the best) in the same box in the trunk?
I did it on my 09 Taco in 2017 only the doors where plastic was & behind the back seat for kicker box. The doors are a lot heavier closing but very quiet with the volume turned up doors closed.
Hi Mark! Thanks for the help !!! Finished my install…. My friends saw it and want the same treatment and install for stereo and amp- I used to install at bset byu during college…. And it m kind of confused as to rates ? What should my charges be for install for amp and sound deadener? It’s been a while and the last time I did this they paid me $8/ hr at Bset Byu…. Appreciate you!
Would you advise sound deadening in a pre made stock sound enclosure box/pod? My Audi TT MK3 has a large one for the front door speaker enclosure and you’d hope it was made specifically for the best sound/bass from the speakers. I’m about to sound deaden the rest of the door/card etc but wondered if I should leave the enclosure alone? Thanks
With rubbing alcohol still somewhat hard to come by it’s handy to mention you could also use denatured alcohol found on the paint and solvent isle of most big box stores. I’d avoid acetone - it works really well but is stronger than necessary, smells awful, and isn’t friendly to confined spaces.
@@a.melburn rubbing alcohol is Isopropyl alcohol while denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol, the same type you find in alcoholic beverages. It is “denatured” with additives to make it undrinkable with the same kind of stuff you can put on fingernails to convince a kid not to put their fingers in their mouth. They’re both solvents that can break down oils and evaporate easily.
😂 Who wants a yummy snack??? 😂
whatcha got
You mean the ear wigs?
Special scoobie snack? Wink wink lol
One areas you are going to want to put sound deadening material is on the roof of the Jetta, I have the exact same car there is a wood board up there that will rattle with any bass. May be worth it to do a video on how to drop the headliner and such.
Would spray foam work?
I slapped some inside the walls of my clothes dryer. Then took the door apart and put it inside. Dryer is crazy quiet now!
Thats actually a really good idea if there aren't any hazards that come with it
@@Its_3055 no hazards as long as your dryers disconnected when you do it. The stuff doesn't melt or create a fire hazard.
Another noise reduction trick: Zip-up and button your jeans "backwards" before throwing them in the drier.
@@robnation2475 I do that and have been trying to get my wife to do that for years. Common sense. She doesn't get it. That loud rattling drives me nuts.
Just used this stuff again on a pair of old school/gym lockers. Mucho better.
Now this is sound proofing. Most installers I have seen only slap a few strips here and there, mostly behind the speakers. Obviously some things are budget based, but I think this is the real deal. Not just two strips on your boot lid.
I did this on a 2005 Ford explorer. It made a huge difference. Not only for the rattling, but the road noise and ride quality was drastically improved. The whole vehicle felt like it was better built and felt more “premium” than stock.
It took me almost 2 weeks to complete though. What a pain in the ass! But well worth the effort!
I replaced my head unit, and ran the stock door speakers for a couple days . . they rattled and buzzed like crazy! I was a bit nervous to put my new speakers in but, when installing them I put sound deadener on the inside of the door, I put foam on back of the speaker magnets, a foam ring around the speaker, and used this foam tape that goes around where you mount the speaker. After watching this video, I will admit I did not do anything to the back of the door panel so, I will be doing that on my next day off! Anyways . . It now sounds amazing! I am very impressed, full volume and no buzzing or rattling! I now have my amp and subs intalled, an d I have not done anything in the hatch yet so, the subs are creating some rattles in the back. I plan on doing that here real soon, and can't wait for the results! This guy is very awesome! His work is very beautiful!! I really enjoy, and appreciate these videos!!
The level of detail and logic behind these suggestions is impressive. It’s obvious you’ve been doing these installations for years !
UPDATE: If you are having trouble watching this video TH-cam is currently having issues worldwide. I have found that if you are on mobile and tap "click to retry" a couple times the video will load. Please reply here if you can see the video now! This video has a TON of detail on the full process of sound treating the doors, interior, trunk etc. Be sure to come back and watch!
It's back up and running now!
it's back up for me to * from the EU
What do you charge to sound dead a whole car??
It would depend on the car, level of treatment, goals, many factors.
@@CarAudioFabrication something like you did in this video with a full size for door car from the 90s (town car/de vile)
Dude! Your “Midlevel” upgrade is 5 times better than most installer’s highest level sound deadening upgrades
I did that and more to my SQ build I did a few years ago. I siliconed any seams in the doors, and did 3 layers of deadener, then a layer of closed cell foam. Those doors were solid! Then I did carpet padding too under your feet, and got the whole vehicle undercoated, so you didn't get any vibration in the floor. Some SQ competitors will do even more. One guy had a couple hundred pounds of clay in the footwells of his regular cab pickup! Once they get into the clay or sand, in addition to the dynamat type materials and closed cell foam, then you know they're serious, haha. It's probably the #1 way to improve a system.
I've always had the impression sound deadening works well for just regular road noise as well.
Totally does!
Ask any luxury car.
It does just manufacturer being cheap
I own an 06 honda civic lx sedan. The owner before me had a lot of road noise so he installed a shit ton of expensive sound deadening material throughout every nook and cranny of the car. Definitely helps with road noise and definitely helps with audio quality
It does. You just need to be sure you sound deaden the firewall. This is the source of 90% of the sound you hear from the front seat.
14:10 The owner and founder of Hushmat spent about 45 minutes with me at a training (yes, I had tons of questions). As a degreed acoustical engineer, he said that there is no benefit above 75% panel coverage. When he was designing noise control packages for several OEMs, he had access to sophisticated measuring equipment to verify this.
He further said that shops that cover 100% of a panel only do it out of fear that the client will think he is getting ripped off. Exceeding 75% adds unneeded mass to the vehicle. Dr. Porsche famously once said “weight is the enemy”.
Wow super interesting, thanks alot for sharing that!
... and Mr. Colin Chapman said to "simplify, then add lightness". If only the manufacturer(s) covered 50% of the (floor) panel vs the 20% (or less) they typically do, I think we'd have better interior car environments across the board; not just in Lux brands like Lexus, Infinity, BMW, etc., etc.
@@K03sport well that’s where “luxury” comes in and that’s what you pay for
@@jonellwanger7258...to a certain (small) extent. There's way more to a luxury car than 30% more sound deadening/absorption material. Thats just covers the noise/environment aspect inside the cabin. There are still many more areas of the car that elevate it to the luxury level (something Mazda is attempting to do) such as the feel/driving characteristics, touch points, materials used, semi-exclusivity, technology, and even person-to-person interactions at the dealership.
@@K03sport ok, yes there is more to it. I was making a generalization... 🤦♂️🙄🤦♂️
Around 5-6 years ago now the first time I did this sound deadening jazz I went way over the top. Pretty sure I went through 7 of the Dynamat megapacks, well over 100kg of dynamat. I double skinned the outside door panels, single layered both sides of the inner metal fab on the door. Used some tin or something and cut sections for the service ports and 2 layered up the 2 largest ports on the inside of the panel using the smallest remaining service port to do so, the last port was double or triple layered only from outside along with the 2 largest. Completely stripped the interior and boot of the sedan and single layered the floor with dynamat and then applied dynaliner. The entire parcel shelf has dynamat single layer on both sides with dynaliner cut and shaped for premium fit. Entire boot is single layered. At the end of it and particularly the doors my hands were a mess.
Everyone comments on the lack of road noise in the vehicle.
I run 2 Hertz SX300Ds in a CAF designed 42hz ported box off a RF 2500BDCP gains set 2000w RMS @ 50hz. Digital source all the way to Bit Ten D, gain structure is optimal.
When tuned right and volume set correctly they are awesome, the transition to the mids is excellent. To this day a rattle I have not found. I suppose that is an argument for going over the top with sound deadening.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the subwoofer blueprint designed box! There is definitely nothing wrong with going over the top, I just have received a lot of feedback in the past that tells me people think they have to spend the "high end" budget in order to even begin to see benefits which is not the case. Even an "entry level" amount of treatment goes a long way. Of course it won't be the same as the "high end" but every budget achieves a different end result.
@@CarAudioFabrication Legend.
does it help to keep the sound inside the car as well?
Hey mate, I'm in Australia and prices are near double. Would using a foam product that's say 8mm thickness be too thick ?@@CarAudioFabrication
@Reflect744 hey mate, aussie here too (obviously). The issue with thicker matting is getting door cards back on etc. Clips n screws are long enough to take up the extra space. For the boot, roof and bonnet area, it's perfect though.
im only 1 min in. but i remember watching you like two years ago when you were redoing your own small cars. this channel has gotten so much better! stoked for you dude!!!
I usually wrap a piece around the power window motor - it can make it slightly quieter.
Good idea !
Sure isn’t many questions after watching this video. Be careful and take your time. Getting in a hurry will cause more frustration down the road. Really good job explaining what to look for and not overdoing it. Great job Mark! Tah dah! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
16:38 One noise control measure you do NOT see in this VW (for cost reasons) are STUFFER BLOCKS, found in BMW, Mercedes-Benz, etc. - shaped blocks of grey closed cell foam OR dark grey polyester fill, like firm pillow stuffing. The latest version of this is NOISELITE, similar to THINSULATE used in cold weather jackets. When you work on a Hyundai Palisade you will see a small piece attached to each kickpanel.These stuffer blocks trap airborne noise as it moves around, not to dampen panel vibrations. We attack 2 kinds of noise: STRUCTURE-BORNE NOISE and AIRBORNE NOISE. The materials that stick to panels kill structure-borne noise (vibrating metal & plastic). The closed-cell foam used in SoundShield kills airborne noise that propagates into the interior from vibrating panels and other noise sources. You need to address both “sources” to be effective. In addition to these materials, I have started using stuffer blocks in my project cars. There are two more techniques I use that are more esoteric, inspired by Rolls-Royce.
I believe this is why he has labelled it as a ‘mid’ level upgrade.
Most car audio garages in Australia will put butyl matting, then cover with focal hushmat or other similar closed cell adhesive back matting.
Some even use mass loaded vinyl underlays to reduce road noise from the floorpan
What are the more esoteric techniques
Heck yeah bud , great info 😎👍
Just want to say that I absolutely love your videos!
I consider them to be the best and most informative audio build series available!
Ok i must say... holy crap. Ive ran 2 JL w6v2 10" for 7 years in my ctsv. Always sounded great. 2 weeks ago I watched the video and did the exact same treatment 4 days ago. Same material. Now I run a single 12" w6v3 and upgraded the door speakers with focals on the factory hu. The installation took 6 days (I have a daily driver). Not only does it sound louder with 300 less watts but the clarity is crazy. Added just shy of 45lbs but saved 66lbs with a rear bumper brace replacement. 1300 bucks later (including bumper brace) I weigh less but sound day and night better. I wish I had a channel so people understood this difference.
You do have a channel, friend! You can upload any videos you want at any time. I know you know this, but I just want to let you know it again. I'm glad your awesome CTS-V sounds better and is even lighter than before, what a wonderful vehicle.
@jgizzy I know I can post a video on here but I don't have a channel that is out there for comparison videos. I don't have any befores anyway. Or a gopro lol I'm old.
I'm doing an evo x right now that if I get my funds right will be done this summer. Since I haven't tore anything apart I thought about doing a forum picture guide. A video on here might be worth the time. Anyway I bought another w6 for a magic box but I'm thinking I want to try sundown. Do you have experience with these to compare the 2 brands? I'd like to keep weight off the evo but even with the stock rocksford sub, the trunk lid is sounding crazy. So I'll have to atleast soundproof that.
Good to explain how the Decibel scale works for your audience. Some content creators are very disappointed that the only achieved a 3db change which is really eliminating half of the original sound.
Hey Folks, don't forget that if you're running old tires or if they aren't inflated to spec, you could be introducing a huge amount of noise into your car. Most likely more audible noise than you would be able to eliminate through any amount of sound deadening.
So, I got sick of having a factory stereo and started watching your videos. You are a savant when it comes to your trade. Truly impressive! If I had the financial means I’d have all my cars sent to you. The audio equivalent of Rembrandt.
I wish you had this 6 years ago when I started my car audio journey. I learned everything the hard way, great content as always.
Same brother, same. At least learning the hard way is better than never learning
That 4 panels off at once is brilliant..I always thought I was saving time by doing one at a time..then life happens and don't get to the other ones as quickly then......
for those playing at home and are probably doing a one off job. instead of buying the plastic roll to make templates, you can simply stick scrap paper together with painters tape to get your large surfaces, and all the finer edges, use folded over painters tape. then simply use a sharpie/pen/pencil to mark your shape out, then simply cut it out. the benifit id, if you stuff up an area you can simply stick more paper/tape to that area, retrace and recut. Then simply lay thr template onto the deadener, trace with a pen, cut with some quality sewing scissors!
For trim clip, wiring clip, threaded hole areas etc, i usually fine a suitable object to use as a one size fits all template. For example, a simple trim clip hole in the door sheet metal, ive used a large flanged nut, even a glue stick lid, to trace a nice clearanced circle on the sound deadening, then simply cut it out with a razor blade. This way i get a consistent hole size template that will work for 99% of the trim clips i encounter within the vehicle.
deadening and electrical will make or break a system for sure 😎👍🏻
You definitely know by now but those are actually two part clips. You unclick it once then pop it out. When you reinstall you line them up and click them in it pops the prints out. They also have that thin rubber the decouple. You did this vid to late I half hacked my Jetta in January. Still happy with my result but plenty of room for improvement. Gonna use this series. Thanks for what you do!
Great video, learned a bit. Although I’ve learned allot from all your videos. I finally at 40 have gotten to build me a moderate system. As I’ve been adding, fine tuning and such I’ve referenced your videos many times, much appreciated. Been wanting to do this on my doors, back cargo area and the cargo door cause theres allot of rattling in the cargo area. But that stuff isn’t cheap. When you have a wife, adult daughter, grand-baby that your financially responsible for. Also a son thats on his own but still needs a couple hundred bucks every month or two it’s a little tough. I wouldn’t trade it for the world though, im very proud I’m able to, but things like this go on the bottom of list. The next thing I want do is build a custom box for my American Bass XFL 10” sub, in a prefab at the moment.
Congrats 🥳 😊❤
So cool brother. I got a Kia Rio shit box that dones 294,000 KMs and still runs perfect. I'm going to do this. I've had an S500L Mercedes and my wife has an AC Schnitzer 540i. The sound in these cars was amazing. The Kia isn't a Mercedes but I can make quieter inside. Cheers from New Zealand. 👍😎
thanks you got me going in right direction i have 3 layers on my lexus doors the whole floor the whole trunk including wheel wells, soon im doing back seat wall and roof, huge difference and trunk, keep inspiration going bro !!
Theres always so much good information coming from this channel. I love it.
...agreed. Mark makes it look too easy. Makes me want to go buy/build a router table and acquire bits I'll rarely use.
I love your videos! Very educational and inspiring for those of us who want to learn something new. I drive for a living and road noise is my daily nemesis! I experimented with my 2018 Nissan Titan I just purchased last month. It does have all terrain tires and I did expect it to be a little louder on the highways because of them. I used a decibel meter to measure how many decibels it was at 60 mph. Which it was about 65-75 db levels. I had to replace a blown speaker in the passenger rear door. So, I decided to upgrade and add some sound deadening material as well. I just finished everything yesterday. The sound level is exactly the same, but the radio sounds awesome and I definitely do not have to turn it up as high to hear it even with the road noise. I think I need to treat the wheel wells, firewall and possibly the floorboards. But that will be a whole new adventure for me! Thanks again for all of the great videos!!!
I went to the junk yard and disassemble the entire interior of a Lexus LS 400 to take a look of what type of materials they use to make such vehicles so quiet and virtually noise free … probably you vehicle has three times de amount of sound deadening rubber material, they use different lighter materials , particularly the doors , no mention that make the vehicle heavier affect the fuel economy and acceleration 🤷♂️ materials like “Dynamat” prevents rattling but not isolate noise. However it was a nice job 👍
I used to do car audio installation back in the early 90s to 2005. A lot has changed but the most important parts have stayed the same. Sound deadening is one of the most important parts of an installation but also one of the most neglected. I know it doesn't seem like it but I had spray on sound deadening material that I used on my 1994 Dodge Dakota. I removed all of the interior, sanded and primed the whole interior and used the spray in deadening material over the firewall, floor back panel, roof, inside of the doors and the inner door. Then I used Dynamat insulated mat for the floor and firewall and the regular for all other areas. I noticed you using Audio Control equipment. I used that as well. I had the ESP2, Epicenter, 4XS and 2 EQTs for for my four way system. I had USD Waveguide A series, Diamond Audio 6.5 in the kicks, Diamond Audio 8s in the doors and 4 IMPP Pioneer 12s ported through the bed. For the USDs I had a Punch 60, for the 6.5 I had a Punch 100, for the 8s I had a Punch 100 and the for the 12s I had a pair of Power 50Ms. I wish I had a photo of the inside. But I only have a photo of the bed where the Amps were located.
Funny enough i too had same vehicle. I never did any sound deadening and i never really noticed all that many rattles running 2 rockford fosgate t 1 12 inch subs powered by a 2k watt amp, with the subs firing towards the back. Also never had any headlight dimming either.
Thanks for the tutorials, very thorough and easy to understand. Going to do my first DIY sound treatment on my '01 Highlander next weekend to bring those new Kicker KSS6504's and KEY amp soundstage to it's full potential! I already converted the rear 5-1/4 setup to a component 6.5" with tweeters mounted high and angled to the listener. Already sounds 1000x better than what the previous owner had, but I want to maximize my midrange upgrade since I can't go nuts like I did before with an insane system and lose my "dad cargo space"...lol...Anyway first time doing all this, it looks professional and clean so far, and your videos really help, my friend. Appreciate all your hard work. 👍
"Circuit City Roadshop this is Brian, how may I direct your call?" Mark, I long time viewer here. If you couldn't make the connection I'm old, as opposed to this "oldschool" thing that these kids use these days!!! I usually just watch to affirm the fundamentals of car audio. Anyway, i dig your simplistic, yet effective teachings. I know a couple legends in the industry. Some things never change!!! We tend to travel in small yet, fantastic groups!
Haha the good old boom room. I miss those days.
Absolutely fantastic video, couldn't have been better in my opinion, thanks for making the effort to make this so comprehensive!
This is a MID-LEVEL sound deadening upgrade?!
For anyone wondering like I was:
Six rolls of SoundShield - 6 x $119 = $714
Two rolls of SoundShield Slim - 2 x $59 = $118
Roller - $10
Punch Kit - $18
Clear Transfer Tape - $30
Utility Knife - $20
---------------------------------------------
Total - $910
So all in all for this "mid-grade" sound deadening treatment, you're looking at a total investment of $910 before you have invested a single minute of your time into a project like this.
Use killmat I used it in my Honda it wasn't much I used 3 boxes or 150sq ft. For my 2 door coupe. 50mil and 80 mill were used. Double in the trunk and on the roof
I have an 18 inch sub box taking up the whole back seat. And my car is completely gutted. It sounds awesome. Very loud. Louder than it was in the Escalade.
Installed 80 mil sound deadening in my truck this weekend. Amazed at the level of outside noise reduction. I don’t have decibel level measuring equip. However, it’s extremely noticeable.
Sweet you did a Jetta, I’m gathering parts for a simple lc1.800, idmax12 in a down4sound 1.8 cu/ft ported box in my mk7 Jetta gli. This is my first go at anything audio related, I’ve always been more of a go fast guy. Thanks for all your videos!!
Bringing back my worst nightmares of doing NVH repairs at Chrysler. Spending all day to fix every rattle and buzz you can find for the customer to not even know it was there. Next to water leaks, the NVH complaints were the worst. It has affected me so badly, that in my own vehicle I won't take easier roads to work because I don't want to develop rattles from bumps I can avoid. I drive my old chevy silveraydo then get in someone else's vehicle and cant stand all the noise. I spend the whole ride trying to find out where that noise is coming from.
I did the entire cab on my regular cab truck. I’m running 2 12” JBLs on a 1000W Alpine amp, and JBL rear speakers, 4 Skar 1.75” super tweeters and JBL door speakers. About to upgrade the door speakers to some DS18 250w rms speakers on a 1000w kenwood amp. This stuff helps so much!! You can feel the bass in your chest now
Very cool, sounds like a fun system for sure! I always find it interesting when people show off how much their car is vibrating, and I just think... "all that vibration is lost energy" stop the vibration and get more output!
@@CarAudioFabrication exactly my thoughts! The vibration in a 25 year old truck is no fun either 😅. I really need to pull the door panels and put some material on them as well. Should I do some on the firewall do you think?
You can put it on the firewall but the majority of the noticeable improvement will likely come from the doors. If you find the engine drone annoying in that case start treating firewall.
@@CarAudioFabrication I love the sound of the 5.7! I did two layers on the floor to help with the minimal exhaust. That made the most difference!
Awesome, yeah, best to probably focus on the doors then, be sure to come back and let me know how it turns out!
Thank you Mark, thanks to your Link I was able to buy the transfer tape for my Ford flex SQ System. I really appreciate it. Not a lot of installers like to share information on the tools they use but im glad you still continue to show us the secrets to car audio. I'm just a DIY guy for my own car audio projects but appreciate you a lot. Thank you my bro! 👊😁
I haven't deaden my car. In order to enjoy music without road noise I just stop the car crank up the volume and light my cigar. Total Heaven
I did my doors on my tundra like this using your video, great work I've learned alot from you.
I'd like to expand on something you said quite a way through the video (when you were in the trunk). You mentioned about identifying areas that may need 'help' by looking at where the OE has put sound deadening. This is 1000% CORRECT. No matter the make of car, those squares, triangles or odd shapes of material DID NOT get there by accident. As a Professional Automotive Engineer of 40 years, I can tell you that the OEs put a lot of effort into identifying where to put sound deadening to get the best possible sound reduction to remain competitive (in segment) for the least amount of cost and weight (for weight read 'fuel consumption). Exactly as you said about the diminishing law of return - the OE is looking for the biggest bang for their buck. So, as was mentioned (very much 'in passing'), start by adding to what is already there, particularly if you're on a budget.
I just want to thank you for all your car audio tutorials. I will be working on sound deadening my 2012 Silverado single cab, looking forward to end result.
Thank you so much for the valuable insight on sound deadening. You're an awesome teacher! Great job @Mark. I followed these instructions and wow! It did make a really big difference in the sound output from all 4 doors (JBL 6"-RL & RR, 6x9" FL &F R)
On the door near the top you put it on the backside of the panel but not on the door because clearance. Maybe this is just nitpicking but wouldn't you have a better result putting it on the metal instead of the panel? I feel like the metal would resonate vibration and road noise more than the inside plastic panel
It also sounds quieter in the vehicle when the music is off. I’m gutting my Fiesta ST in the spring and giving it a deadening treatment like this. Might do the roof as well.
I was thinking of doing that to my suv but after watching videos of how to remove the headliner I concluded that its a total nightmare can of worms. Also my second row seats come with red loctite on the bolts from the factory, theres no getting those out. Your videos are always informative and entertaining to watch either way. :)
The seat bolts WILL come out, even with red Loctite. Use a really long ratchet and spray WD-40 as soon as a couple of threads are visible. The bolts are made to be removable during repair.
Love and support from Iran . Thank you for all of your advises and videos .I increased audio quality via your videos
Okay. Ima just like the video and hope it is good. Will watch it when TH-cam decides to comes back online..
Working for me now!
This is a CRAZY good video. Making me consider removing the carpets--only thing stopping me is the very strong lack of desire to remove the seats lol. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
If it’s the seat removal that’s scaring you off of removing the carpet, chances are you aren’t ready, because seats are very easy to remove compared to the rest of interior
Hello Very nice 👍 ! I’m a tattoo artist , I love music , custom is what I like to do . I never done any custom on the trunk before . Few week ago I start playing around piece by piece using what ever I have . It’s not done yet a lot of people around my neighborhood thinking I’m crazy or something. I be in front of my apartment Sweating they wondering wth this man doing Lolzz . It’s almost there . Thank Mark for many excellent idea .
Before I did you tube and had to figure out things for myself I spent a day sitting in the trunk of my car with a tube of liquid nails and a roll of tape playing my stereo and searching for rattles
So I finally checked out the vid... thanks for all your detail.
Two questions I have: 1. With the skins, can it be installed in 50 degree weather? 2. The trunk treatment, is it recommended to leave the gray pieces already on the surface in place? If it was an older car, would you scrape those pieces out prior to install?
Thanks!!
You’ve inspired me to try this with my vehicle. It’s an older car so I don’t think there’s any sound proofing
So roughly $900 in materials is mid level? I guess high end would be 5 figures...great video and I like how you started it with tackling the economics of it.
@nectros8452 $900 is not a lot for audio. That's about $125 per door and a $250 amp. You'll also need a line out converter to connect the amp, an amp wiring kit with a decent fuse, and new speaker wires to the doors.
I used 80 mill killmat in my Rigid polished stainless steel shop vac. Did the underside as well, and yeah man, it has a much more solid feel, and no Tin-Cabny type sound... Sound Deadening is as important as correct wire gauge
I pulled my door panels to install some JBL's
These have thick padding all across the door and inside the speaker hole. I'm very lucky
Once again watching bc I want to take over my dads car audio business
Keep up the good work enhancing your skills! I hope to keep seeing you comment.
You staging a coup? 😁
Thank you so much! This gave me the confidence to DIY it on my 2010 Charger rt... Which definitely has its fair share of rattles!
One nice demonstration would be hearing a before and after sound shield comparison of slamming the car door closed. I would imagine there would be a significant difference in noise. Great video.
I actually tried capturing that on camera but it doesn't do it justice. Definitely a noticeable difference. Feels like you are closing a much more solid vault.
@@CarAudioFabrication I remember the days when I sold VW the door closing was an important selling feature. I really enjoyed your video, it was really informative. I feel much less worried about tackling the project myself.
Thank you sir for your awesome videos, your knowledge, your finances, and your dedication to car audio. Very inspiring I know I'm getting very accurate very detailed information when I watch your videos.
Love it! I’m a big proponent of people using the 25-30% method when on a budget as well
I'm a 30-50 kinda guy. A little really goes a long way. Laws of diminished returns is very evident in the application of deadeners
I'm willing to spend the money if it makes a difference. I'm not only chasing amazing audio but also less road noise (I have a base model Accord). Any suggestions? I was going to buy the 64.5 sqft roll of SoundSkins Pro Plus but I don't know if it's too much/not enough for 75% coverage. I'm planning this project like a year in advance so I can get everything perfect.
You obviously don’t love your car 😭😂💀
@@TheMstwntdLMSV123 good lord yes that's plenty. I had a 40sq ft pack and I used it on 3 different cars
You can use butyl tape on those clips in the door panel, just a small amount is enough to stop them from rattling about.
I've done every inch of my van ready to add sound all the door cards done 4 x 6.9 in the front 2x 6.9 2x 4inc and 2 square subs
This is way more in-depth than I was ready for 😮 awesome!
Bro, you’re gonna start seeing me all over your comments because totally love your work and you’re helping me and my friend start something good we too just like you started at a young age. My question now is when I see your videos behind you I see all that black acrylic plastic and I know what you’re using it for Lines and curves in your designs and what not where are you getting that material? Are you making yourself or is there a place you can order it. I’m constantly looking around trying to find items like that so I can get that inspiration or make those crucial lines for a build, but it would be easier if there was just a place I could order those stencils from thanks bud. Keep up the good work.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos! Common sense and being reasonable (law of diminishing returns) are a huge plus for me!
Thank you!
Just subscribed.
I've been watching since you revealed the secrets of car audio to the world.
Can't believe I hadn't subbed before now.
Thanks mark!
Thanks for subbing
You do a great job of explaining how and why you apply sound deadening material to improve the overall sound within the cabin. Could you touch on how to sound dampen performance and/or aftermarket exhaust systems?
A lot of performance or more aggressive sounding exhaust systems sound great during drives around town or short trips on highways, but those same lovely exhaust tones can become tiring during long road trips.
In this video, you mention "entry level" and "mid-range" materials but do you have any product recommendations or tips for how to heavily dampen certain locations of a vehicle (i.e. rear/trunk flooring surrounding the muffler(s) or firewall between the cabin and the engine bay)?
Thanks in advance!
Very comprehensive array of materials and techniques used. Was educational
I just found your channel recently. Good stuff. You really know what you’re doing!
By Far One Of The Best Explained I Have Seen. Thanks You.
I held the belief that you should add acoustic treatment before considering upgrading the sound system. It'll help you make a more careful decision.
Wow, this stuff is not cheap. Hadn't really planned on spending 800$+ just on sound deadening alone! Probably worth it though. What makes soundshield that much better than cheaper products such as KILMAT?
also is it worth it to install under the headliner? Taking it out anyway
A lot of people swear Kilmat is comparable to these higher end brands. I’ve been reading that you should cover your roof but do about 75%
Other than better acoustics, in what other ways does this work? Does it decrease road and exterior noise?
Oh it sure does.
Do you ever do CLD, CCF, and MLV or just stick to this type of product?
Thanks Mark! It's always nice to see installs done right.
I would like to see a video showing what a very minimal use of sound deadening is used and where to place it. Someone told me to place patches on flat surfaces only. I have a 2019 Forester Premium (lowest trim level) with speakers in the dashboard (tweeters?), front doors and back doors. Is this considered a 6-way speaker system? Anyway, I’d like to try installing some sound deadening to quiet exterior noise.
Based on my experience, it doesn't have to be expensive to have a good quality sound. Also, if you put too much sound deadening, 1) it makes the car heavier which will need an "extra" gas for mileage 2) Sometimes, too much sound deadening creates a "vacuum" silence that for some sensitive people, is painful in the ear, probably due to the pressure created inside the car 3) We are on the road and we must concentrate on the sound on the road and less on the music/entertainment system which is dangerous if we get carried away too much because we focus more on the music. ... Creating a good sound system is more about matching the components and it doesn't have to be expensive.
True but a buzzing car is annoying.
I just found your channel today, 11/19/2022. I wish you were around 25 years ago when I first started stereo installation for my cars and home. I made many of the newbie mistakes you talk about, some even worse lol. Thankfully I did improve and got pretty good at it, but damn dude you're good!
Great video! Will be doing deadening and heat insulation on my truck soon to take care of some extreme floor heat from the exhaust and hopefully taking out a lot of road noise. This video has given me a lot more ideas for my loud center console too.
This looks so much better than my Great Stuff spray foam job.
I have no doubt that SoundShield is a top tier product, but one thing I can't stand is manufacturers that use very EXPENSIVE packaging with advertising for their product. Those tubes with the printed logo (advertising) is probably the most expensive way there is to package that kind of product! Every time you buy it you are throwing away money because of their decision to package it that way. For that reason alone I will use another product out of protest of their executive decisions. As an installer you already know how good their product is, so why do you need to pay for it every time you buy it? All it does is increase the cost to your customers without any value in return.
OMG, It's the man they based the zucc android on!
Great advice, thanks for the video.
I'm about to do a jimny gen 3 but I'm quite a limited budget.
Not sure I'll have enough to do all the panels but I'm going to do all the biggest flattest ones I can in the speaker cavities.
There are HUGE cavities at the back that resonate even with 4" speakers.
if you treat the whole floor, do you put the carpet pad back in? does it cause any fit issues?
So much work, but worth it. Professional and quality. Nice work!
The demo dropping a piece of metal had me sold.
What do you think about creating a custom subwoofer box through the ski hatch and another woofer faced back, front or to the side (dependig on what looks the best) in the same box in the trunk?
Before you peel the backing, how are you getting the sound shield wrinkle free Before applying?
Great video! That stuff is also good for older vehicles that don’t have all that technology thought out for them already.
I did it on my 09 Taco in 2017 only the doors where plastic was & behind the back seat for kicker box. The doors are a lot heavier closing but very quiet with the volume turned up doors closed.
Hi Mark! Thanks for the help !!! Finished my install…. My friends saw it and want the same treatment and install for stereo and amp- I used to install at bset byu during college…. And it m kind of confused as to rates ? What should my charges be for install for amp and sound deadener? It’s been a while and the last time I did this they paid me $8/ hr at Bset Byu…. Appreciate you!
Would you advise sound deadening in a pre made stock sound enclosure box/pod? My Audi TT MK3 has a large one for the front door speaker enclosure and you’d hope it was made specifically for the best sound/bass from the speakers. I’m about to sound deaden the rest of the door/card etc but wondered if I should leave the enclosure alone?
Thanks
I was waiting for the sound test
With rubbing alcohol still somewhat hard to come by it’s handy to mention you could also use denatured alcohol found on the paint and solvent isle of most big box stores. I’d avoid acetone - it works really well but is stronger than necessary, smells awful, and isn’t friendly to confined spaces.
@@a.melburn rubbing alcohol is Isopropyl alcohol while denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol, the same type you find in alcoholic beverages. It is “denatured” with additives to make it undrinkable with the same kind of stuff you can put on fingernails to convince a kid not to put their fingers in their mouth. They’re both solvents that can break down oils and evaporate easily.
Lord of mercy!
Each roll is $119.
I’m dying 🤣