My back struts are garbage and there’s something rattling plastic to metal somewhere in the back, possibly rear deck. I constantly travel 70-75mph with a right door 6.5, and 2 6x9s rear deck lol not even my driver side 6.5 and windows down theyre screaming
I never understood the point of amplifying speakers until i did it in 2018. What a difference. If you buy a sweet set speakers (and they're 50W RMS each) and hook them directly to the head unit, you are not only leaving performance on the table but you also probably won't feel impressed. Gotta buy a 2- or 4-channel amp to send them 50W instead of the 18W the head unit provides!
Retired 30 plus year installer.MECP first class 1992, Master #10 1994. Great video... Good luck trying to find a great demo board these days, my massive MTI board was almost 20k in the 90"s, sold for it for 1000. mY BEST ADVICE would be to buy the most expensive JL AUDIO you can afford, and a real pro install them. I always made a wood mounting surface for door speakers, always...good luck
I knew a guy back in the 90’s. He was a friend of someone else really. We all go into the car audio store to check out the head units. He tells the employee I just want one with a lot of lights. The other guy and me just said dude are you serious and just died laughing.
In my 20s I preferred the sound of a silk dome.tweeter (Boston Acoustics were my favorite), as metal tweeters sounded too harsh. Now in my 50s, my aging ears prefer the sound of a metal dome tweeter (Currently using Alpine).
I miss Boston Acoustic! Great sounding speakers I had a beautiful Boston Acoustic system in my 88 VW Cabriolet in the late 90's. 6.5 components in the doors, 5.25 coaxial in the rear sides and 2, 12's in a sealed box in the boot. One of the best sounding system I had in stalled. They stole the whole car : (
@@jeweldey3699 Dang, that sux. That car would be a classic if you still had it today. I put Boston Rally components up front and Kicker 10s in the trunk of my 87 Pontiac Bonneville when I worked at Circuit City. I'd actually look forward to long drives. I wish Boston was still around.
I currently have 2 of the 5”x 7” s85’s and am trying to install in my Audi A5 unfortunately it’s a pain so you think it’d be worth putting them in boxes on rear deck? I really love the way boston acoustics sound I also have 2 g2’s for my other vehicle lol
Mark knows his shit. A car audio enthusiast keeping it 💯 as usual. I like the attention to detail and fab techniques...keep it coming bro! Funny thing is, I thought this industry would inevitably be a thing of the past when I was young...but we continue to do what we do decades later...love it.
Great knowledge once again, i used to run Jl audios c2’s when I was a teen, then moved on to ZR’s and now currently on with C5’s as I prefer the silk dome tweeter, all powered up with Jl audios HD600/4 with a W3 Subwoofer housed in a ported enclosure, from the UK 🇬🇧 faz, keep the great content up 😃
My GMC Envoy SLT came with the Bose factory upgrade. I kept the stock woofers in the front doors because they bang hard! They can take a pounding! Everything else was replaced with Kenwood speakers and Pioneer HU / 4-channel amp.
upgrading the front door speakers to a smaller 5-1/4 for better midrange and treble while keeping the old-school 6x8s for the bass and lower registers in the rear. I want to make it as basic as I possibly can since I plan on keeping storage space,headroom, and originalinality to a maximum. I want to keep my tape and cd player but it's more of a trade off if you want Bluetooth radio.
Just replaced my AM radio and single 4x6 speaker in my Japanese KEI truck with a new cheapo eBay Bluetooth AM/FM radio with a 50 watt full range 4x6. Sounds great. Cost me $46 total with shipping for both.
I really think the most important part of all of this is CLEAN POWER. If you buy something like a $150 jensen/boss/chinamart head unit even the best speakers will be junk. If you want the best sound, get a cheap lower wattage amp and power the speakers from that. This will even make junk paper speakers sound 25-40% better/clearer. You'd be surprised how amazing cheap speakers sound with clean amp power.
changed my head units from a mid range to a cheap "it works" and indeed, holy shit it sounds so bad now. Really, really bad. As if the speakers were faulty. But the head unit is just very bad. Also the antenna now is not receiving as well anymore lol.
A lot of good information. One thing that frustrates me, my doors have 6x9s and Crutchfield does not display a single one on their compatibility tool. For three years. I thought perhaps everything they have is deeper with a larger magnet or something like that. After searching forums for my vehicle many, many users have purchased 6 x 9s (many of those speakers from Crutchfield themselves) and everything drops in perfectly and sounds nice.
Hi, Thank you for making these informative vids. Do you have a tutorial on how to match the right subwoofer power according to the speaker power? Thank you for making these informative vids.
My personal philosophy is, if you have a stock head unit and just want more clarity and crispness or to bring your sound to life, start with replacing or adding good quality tweeters. Aftermarket performance speakers with stock radio power is almost never an upgrade. I’m all about keeping a factory radio and adding a 4-channel amplifier for speakers that are at or just below the RMS rating of an amplifier per channel. On the other hand, an aftermarket radio powering stock speakers usually rocks. This is because the factory speakers are made to do every job with low power. I’d rather overpower speakers than the opposite. If you aren’t looking for more power with a factory radio you can find cheap aftermarket speakers online that are made to replace the factory ones with the same low power rating, except better cones and surrounds to last longer.
Best speaker is a pizza box and neodymium phone speaker. It sound better than speakers for 15eur. Considering a pizza costs less you only need a neodymium speaker. Maybe a piezzo speaker would work as well. Haven't tried that one.
I just got my 500$ worth of sound deadening and treatment. My car got so much road noise and after a quick investigation I understand why. No deadening in the doors and roof. So now I have to go over the hole care. It was not the plan but in these days we have now it's hard to finde a descent car to a decent price and I'm to cheap to just sell and buy something else.
so I plan on doing three 3.5 inch tweeters under my dash to replaced factory speakers with two 6 inch speakers behind my seats to replace factory speakers and then I plan to have a sub in the far back of the car. Do I need to run all 5 speakers to an amplifier along with my sub? or do I only need the amplifier for the sub?
You might get away with only a single amplifier powering the sub, but it also depends how efficient the tweeters and 6 inch speakers are. 2 major factors come into play. 1 is that the majority of receivers don't have a lot of power output, so the tweeters and 6 inch speakers will not be receiving much. 2 is the now aplified sub, could begin to drown out the other speakers, either from just raw volume alone, or combined with polarity phasing. You can opt to make the amplified sub more timid thru various ways, which could help with the overwhelming volume difference, but it might still suffer some phasing. If money is tight, just pick at each area as you can, when you can. Ultimately you want to get to a point of having all the speakers externally amplified, and a quality DSP controlling the signal.
My build plan rn is 6x9 jl audio c2 speakers in the front, 6-1/2 in jl audio c1 in the back running off an alpine r2 amp and a downfiring kicker L7T subwoofer with a kicker CXA 800 amp, I’m going for sound quality and good volume, what do you guys think?
Man been watching you for at least 13 years and now I finally want to do a car solo. Might need your help I'll subscribe. Whatever it takes by the way I'm 56
I use crutchfield for most of my purchases but one of my vehicles like the 2020 maxima, they don’t offer much for it but i found out like replacing 6X9 with 6.5 and 6.75 focal flax and found it work well. 3 way up front, Coaxial is rear with a Fiberglass sub
Something I never hear anyone talk about is preamps. If you are gonna run an amp, having a head unit with 7 volt preamps is gonna make a huge sound difference opposed to 1.5 volt preamps.
@Cee-i4p If you are running high quality digital amps at high loads, you will notice a difference from 5 to 7 volts. For most part though, you are right. I went though a phase where I tried every single amp and deck combo imaginable.
If the idea is to get better sound then you should probably change your head unit 1st A quality head unit with ample power will give you good sound from stock speakers Stock systems usually sound cruddy because they don't have enough power Or the quality Of after market units
Yes, I’m learning that as I just bought a 2020 Honda CRV EX-L and the problem is it’s an infotainment system… so upgrading that will most likely mess up the electronics and sensors that’s tied into the car. I know Joy something makes a decent infotainment system but it’s finding someone to install it correctly and not take shortcuts
I bought Kicker KS instead of CS 6”x9” and 6.5” for my Tacoma (running DS18 tweeters already). I’ll be upgrading the stereo in time, but it might even be a few months. Did I buy the right ones for sound? I did do it for longevity. Any suggestions for a good stereo that works with my rear view camera and steering controls would be appreciated. Thank you
Hello and thanks a lot for very good guidance on this channel. What would be the best setup for a small cabin car (toyota mr2 aw11) it has speakers in the dash pointing upwards and in the door as well. I would like to get a small subwoofer behind the seat, but I am unsure if I need a 2 speaker setup for the door as well as a integrated 2 speaker setup for the dash (so in this case 4 high frequency domes and 4 midrange speakers. Thanks a lot
I ordered some kappa 4x6 component speakers do you think I should use filtering capacitors/bass blockers on them for loud hip hop ? Dash speaker 98 lesabre 6x9 rear
Crutchfield will tell you that certain speakers won’t fit your vehicle if they don’t carry the adapter ring. For instance, crutchfield said hardly any 6.5” speakers would fit the rear doors on my 4runner. I found an adapter ring somewhere else which gave me many more options for speakers. That being said, I still buy some things from crutchfield. Just be aware that you should do more research if crutchfield says something won’t fit/easily mount and it seems like it should.
I think it is more that Crutchfield only says something fits if it fits with no modifications or adaptors whatsoever. Even if they carry the adaptor their automated tool will say a speaker does not fit. They do this for the obvious reasons. I know in my car none of the speakers I have "fit" on the Crutchfield site, yet they all fit with easy adaptors or adjustments. I agree with your main point, many things fit whether Crutchfield says they do or not, just that I understand why crutchfield feels they have to do that. and yes, I like Crutchfield, they have good prices and are fair and honest.
Good video but we need a list of brands that were great but got assimilated and are still good and those that are crap. A rebrand list would be great too.
Depends. Generally speaking more cone area means more output. If a factory location allows for a larger speaker size you should go with that larger size.
It won't void anything, but remember you will have to put all of the original equipment back in before returning it, otherwise they will charge you for the repairs.
Used Crutchfield to replace my factory speakers in my '14 Lexus IS350 with Mark Levinson system. Used Rockford Fosgate Punch and Power series. Factory speakers were way louder. Smh. Now have to spend more to get them sound they way they should. Was told about $1,200 installed.
I have a 98 Honda Passport. It has front door speakers on the bottom front corner of the door. Them two more in the east of the truck at the very back top where the hinges for the glass meet the roof of the truck. I don't have speakers in the rear doors. I'd love some ideas to maximize the audio in this truck before i get all my noise insulating done. That way i can do it all at once. I wanted ideas on fabricating an enclosure for the back speakers to direct and refine the sound. Any ideas?
So i recently bought 4" JBL for my rear doors, they are coaxial. Also 6.5" coaxial to replace my trunk subwoofers which i think i messed up on. Should i have had only gone for normal subs in the trunk?
Definitely should’ve just gotten a subwoofer for the trunk. If it’s in a car where the trunk is closed off, the mid/top range of the speakers would be muffled anyways.
I am upgraded the head unit in my 1997 toyota hilux sing cab ute l already have a kenwood pandora just the head unit and you have given me a lot to think about l got the head unit for nothing and l have only two places to put two 4 inch speakers because l don't want to put holes in my door cards so when l fit them l will be going to get the plug and a microphone for the blue tooth for my mobile phone l have learned a lot from this video thanks
Another option for “some” people and “some” vehicles. Have a audio installer build speaker cabinets from MDF board for your car speakers. This gives you a lot more options for types and sizes of speakers you want. Makes for easier install options. For instance if you have a older work car for your commute, put the speaker cabinets in the back seat. Years ago some people put home speakers in the back seat hooked up to the head unit. I had 10 inch woofer and tweeter home speakers in my work car. Worked great for me, I was rocking them..👍😎
What type of speaker / tweeters do recommend for the best clarity mostly listen to audio books. No after market amp and stock headunit 2018 honda civic hatchback sport touring
I would just replace the factory tweeters with good aftermarket ones, assuming that your car has stock ones. If not, add some with the crossovers. Key word being ‘good’ aftermarket tweeters. Low end ones will hiss with nothing playing. I’d plan on spending upwards of $100. In my ‘12 CR-V before I finished my sound system I just replaced the stock tweeters. HUGE improvement and they brought the sound to life, night and day difference. And I just had some $10 cheap PowerAkoustik tweeters back then.
In my vehicle I’m just looking to upgrade my factory speakers and keep factory head unit the factory 3 1/2” speakers are rated at 8ohms and any replacements are are at 4ohms is there any way to remedy this or will it not hurt the 4ohm speaker to run at 8ohms?
Most 4 ohm speakers can handle 8 ohms, it's just can the receiver handle 4 ohms is the concern. There are companies who make aftermarket 3 1/2" 8 ohms speakers, just not a bunch of them.
Probably, but it involves more on how your speakers are wired, than simply wether the speaker is rated. Both wiring and speaker ohms rating, goes hand in hand.
I ran into an issue doing the speakers in my 03 Cavalier. I bought a matched set from Sony . Front and rear. The reae 6x9s are perfect but the front door speakers are half as loud. I have to push the fader forward by half to balance the sound. Its driving me crazy.
The bad thing about the sensitivity (dB) spec is some manufacturers don’t say which way they tested for it. Some use the 1W/1M (one watt at one meter distance) method, while some others use the 2.83v input (2.83v into a 4 ohm speaker produces 2 watts). 2.83v doubles the power, which adds 3dB to the spec they’re trying to measure. So that is misleading if they only give the dB number without saying which standard they tested it under.
@Cee-i4pno, some do state it. I recently installed JBL Stage 3 speakers in my truck and the sensitivity given was shown as being tested at 2.83V. I was also considering Pioneer speakers and the spec was given as tested at 1W/1M. Another thing to consider when looking at this spec is the impedance of the speaker. My JBL speakers are 3 ohm impedance. Given the lower impedance and a higher voltage, the speakers were actually tested with 2.66 watts instead of 1 watt. The results still only produced a 93dB rating on the 6x9’s, and 92dB for the 6.5’s. This is very similar to many other companies’ speakers testing at 1W/1M. If the JBL’s were tested at 1W/1M the dB result would have been a good bit lower, so I assume they did this to allow putting a higher number out for the sensitivity. This would seem to suggest that other speakers with similar dB ratings but tested at the 1W/1M standard will ultimately play louder when powered the same as the ones tested at 2.83V, and they probably do on a measurable scale. However in real world use, I can tell little to no difference in volume. The JBL’s can play very loudly on just stock deck power of a 2023 Nissan Frontier (non Fender system), and they sound very clear doing so. No distortion. So basically, don’t over focus on this spec. It’s good to get an idea of one speaker playing louder than another, or maybe in terms of its general performance (lower dB speakers on an amp can really sound good!) but it doesn’t carry as much weight as you might think. Often the only true way to judge a speaker is to physically hear it.
I been in many car events. And the only ones to beat en all was Memphis Audio. And it was so big that even the store employees came put to beg us to stop the show as inside the manicans were falling off the shelfs.... but only happened to the 2 10s Memphis mojo and the big bell amp. What did it beat? A Cady with 12 Kickers subs. And JBL show car with 6 subs in a honda. Then the Alpine van. Best part. The Cavalier with the Memphis Audio was only on the sound mats all the plastics off and back seat gone.
Ok well here’s what I have. My car is a late 70s Pontiac and has only 3 speakers. 2 on the rear deck lid and 1 in the center of the top of the dash. All speakers are 6x9. So I’m assuming if you want the best possible sound out of that stock setup then all 3 should be 3 way speakers?
Thank you. The video is very informative. What about impedance in Ohms?? I am using an android head unit which have speakers impedance 4-8 Ohms but the speakers I am interested in have 3 ohms. Will there be any problems?
Already have a Kicker KS 3.5” mid-high speaker. Do you have any recommendations for a 6.5" mid-low woofer under $200? Considering Hertz C 165 and Alpine S2-S65C (only the woofer part) with the original head unit, which one is better? Thanks a lot.
Just got a 2022 VW Passat. Wanting to upgrade speakers but even crutchfield doesn't have the speaker size. I seen in this video that you was working on a Passat. What was the speaker size on that vehicle?
i got a Question, when converting speaker sizes, for a 4x6 how do you going about changing it to 6x9, i cant find spacer adapters without cutting the frame and im not trying to do that and i dont want the round 6.5s
question I have a 1968 truck the driver door has a 6x9 hole and the passenger door has a 6" round hole?? what type of speakers would work to sound okay.
What’s the best Jl audio Subwoofer? If I went with a Jl Jd1000/1 amp Please answer and if I went to a shop how much do they charge for making a box like you did in one of your videos
Hi there! Quick question. Can i replace my car's 4 ohm speakers with aftermarket 2 ohm speakers, but dedicated for my car? Im talking about Focal Inside. Thanks.
What would your first and second choice be for adding a 3rd small 3.5 midrange to the K2 set for a dash speak to go with it. It is in a 22 f150 unleaded system.
I'm looking to replace my 2019 Fusion's Sony front door speakers as one of them is blown. I'm looking at a set of Infinity Reference 6.5" components but I really would prefer not to go the route of replacing the factory amp right now. With 93db sensitivity and 90 watts RMS, I think they would work well, at least I'm hoping so.
I'm assuming you're referring to the Reference 6532iX model, but with a sensitivity of 93db, they should be plenty bright and crisp, but don't expect them to "wow" you with how they sound until you're pushing them with closer to their RMS rating than you will be from a stock headunit... Brand name aside, there's a downpour of negative reviews on sites like Amazon on otherwise great speakers' pages from people who don't understand that concept because they've underpowered them and inherently whined about "their lack of performance". Don't be that guy. 😅 But yeah, you'll likely enjoy the Infinity's product... I loved my Kappa 62iX's!
hey quick question. I was digging through my parts bins knowing I had a set of tweeters I could throw in my daily driver to do a quick cheap upgrade only to find that I wasn't careful enough and the plastic like dome is pushed in and now has a small dent. I tried using some tape to pull most of it out gently but its far from perfect. how big of a difference does that make?
Hello there , i have a dodge charger 2010, the sound system of the car is stock and its amazing,, the speakers are boston acoustics 6x9, lately it started giving buzzing noise , so i have to replace them, ive tried many 6x9’z but no use the sound sucks big time, what do you recommend ?
Any novel ideas for replacing Mark Levinson (8ohm) or Bose (2ohm) component speakers? Replacing with aftermarket 4ohm speakers would seem to risk both amplifier life and crossover points.
Would it be possible to install a small coaxial speaker in the factory tweeter location, and then installing a better woofer in the factory woofer location? The factory tweeter location is in the dashboard and not in the doors, the doors only have a 13cm/5inch woofer in them.
Is there a way to put a subwoofer under the seats? I do not want to modify the space of my trunk. I have a Toyota Yaris and I just want to upgrade the current retail sound system to a better one, I don't want to win any competitions. I just want it to sound a bit more louder and clearer with bass.
I’m trying to figure out best set up for my 2001 Cabrio. I just sold a 2000 (regrettably) that had a great sound system. I do t know the intricacies of it. Just photos of the speakers, amp, and 8” Rockford sun in rear. They had what appeared to be smaller dash speakers in the factory spot, with tweeters sitting in back of them pointing toward driver. Looked like a small infinity speaker mid range, and the tweeter is likely JL (or infinity) because the doors were JL mids. Amp was a 300 Watt JL. Rears, unsure, finding ones that fit is challenging, but Crutchfield stated I could space the screws with washers and other mods to bring thing “out”. Anyone have ideas of what to buy? It sounded so good! If I could locate the original O I’d duplicate it as close as possible. It had an older 52 watt X4 Alpine CD player. I’m thinking Kenwood next (I dont like those pop up screens).
I have a cadillac dts and they have 5.25in the doors and want to put 6.5 in the car can I still do it the car is 2007 I know that I'll have to do some fabrication
I have the same car 06 I just replaced them with five and a quarter inch components but you can take out the plastic five and a quarter inch mount and buy a six and a half adapter ring and install that
I also you sound deadener in the doors double layer 80 mil kill mat. On the outside panel of the door not the inner panel.
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Perhaps those of you in the comments can lend some ideas for my replacement project; 2015 Mustang. 4in base radio with 6 speakers (two tweeters and four 6.5s). P/S 6.5 has failed and rattles even with the door bong noise. Important to note: I'm not running an amp and do not wish to get that deep into it, I'm only replacing these out of necessity. With that in mind, what suggestions should I consider? I have heard of powerbass but I've been seeing a few too many reviews saying the cones prematurely fail and the highs are fatiguing after a while of listening. I travel long distances in my pony a LOT (In Vancouver, BC at the time of this typing, from Missouri) and normally have the radio around vol20.
What I have learned in 30 years of messing with this stuff. Its easy to make it sound great in your driveway. Much harder to do at 70 MPH.
Solution, drive 60 mph. Saves gas too. Lol, but yeah, I've experienced that too. It's always the low frequency noise that's hardest to get rid of too.
You need a bmw 7 series or mercedes S class. 70, 110, 150mph all silent.
You need a better deadening job lol
My back struts are garbage and there’s something rattling plastic to metal somewhere in the back, possibly rear deck. I constantly travel 70-75mph with a right door 6.5, and 2 6x9s rear deck lol not even my driver side 6.5 and windows down theyre screaming
To add to this, it’s not loud enough to begin with
I never understood the point of amplifying speakers until i did it in 2018. What a difference. If you buy a sweet set speakers (and they're 50W RMS each) and hook them directly to the head unit, you are not only leaving performance on the table but you also probably won't feel impressed. Gotta buy a 2- or 4-channel amp to send them 50W instead of the 18W the head unit provides!
Retired 30 plus year installer.MECP first class 1992, Master #10 1994. Great video... Good luck trying to find a great demo board these days, my massive MTI board was almost 20k in the 90"s, sold for it for 1000. mY BEST ADVICE would be to buy the most expensive JL AUDIO you can afford, and a real pro install them. I always made a wood mounting surface for door speakers, always...good luck
I knew a guy back in the 90’s. He was a friend of someone else really. We all go into the car audio store to check out the head units. He tells the employee I just want one with a lot of lights. The other guy and me just said dude are you serious and just died laughing.
In my 20s I preferred the sound of a silk dome.tweeter (Boston Acoustics were my favorite), as metal tweeters sounded too harsh. Now in my 50s, my aging ears prefer the sound of a metal dome tweeter (Currently using Alpine).
Thanks for sharing, I can't stand harsh noise so I'll be looking for some silk tweeters
I miss Boston Acoustic! Great sounding speakers I had a beautiful Boston Acoustic system in my 88 VW Cabriolet in the late 90's. 6.5 components in the doors, 5.25 coaxial in the rear sides and 2, 12's in a sealed box in the boot. One of the best sounding system I had in stalled. They stole the whole car : (
@@jeweldey3699 Dang, that sux. That car would be a classic if you still had it today. I put Boston Rally components up front and Kicker 10s in the trunk of my 87 Pontiac Bonneville when I worked at Circuit City. I'd actually look forward to long drives. I wish Boston was still around.
I currently have 2 of the 5”x 7” s85’s and am trying to install in my Audi A5 unfortunately it’s a pain so you think it’d be worth putting them in boxes on rear deck? I really love the way boston acoustics sound I also have 2 g2’s for my other vehicle lol
Bostons were amazing back in the day!
A good amplifier is very important. Instantly SQ goes up. Excellent video as usual! Cheers from Australia 🙂
I finally understand the basics of car audio. Thanks for your videos mate!
Mark knows his shit. A car audio enthusiast keeping it 💯 as usual. I like the attention to detail and fab techniques...keep it coming bro! Funny thing is, I thought this industry would inevitably be a thing of the past when I was young...but we continue to do what we do decades later...love it.
Great knowledge once again, i used to run Jl audios c2’s when I was a teen, then moved on to ZR’s and now currently on with C5’s as I prefer the silk dome tweeter, all powered up with Jl audios HD600/4 with a W3 Subwoofer housed in a ported enclosure, from the UK 🇬🇧 faz, keep the great content up 😃
My GMC Envoy SLT came with the Bose factory upgrade. I kept the stock woofers in the front doors because they bang hard! They can take a pounding! Everything else was replaced with Kenwood speakers and Pioneer HU / 4-channel amp.
upgrading the front door speakers to a smaller 5-1/4 for better midrange and treble while keeping the old-school 6x8s for the bass and lower registers in the rear. I want to make it as basic as I possibly can since I plan on keeping storage space,headroom, and originalinality to a maximum. I want to keep my tape and cd player but it's more of a trade off if you want Bluetooth radio.
Just replaced my AM radio and single 4x6 speaker in my Japanese KEI truck with a new cheapo eBay Bluetooth AM/FM radio with a 50 watt full range 4x6. Sounds great. Cost me $46 total with shipping for both.
I really think the most important part of all of this is CLEAN POWER. If you buy something like a $150 jensen/boss/chinamart head unit even the best speakers will be junk. If you want the best sound, get a cheap lower wattage amp and power the speakers from that. This will even make junk paper speakers sound 25-40% better/clearer. You'd be surprised how amazing cheap speakers sound with clean amp power.
finally somebody said it the most important thing is having a quality head unit then everything else follows
changed my head units from a mid range to a cheap "it works" and indeed, holy shit it sounds so bad now. Really, really bad. As if the speakers were faulty. But the head unit is just very bad. Also the antenna now is not receiving as well anymore lol.
How do I know how much power my stock head unit can handle?
Hello, so... component in front door and coaxial in rear doors?
A lot of good information. One thing that frustrates me, my doors have 6x9s and Crutchfield does not display a single one on their compatibility tool. For three years. I thought perhaps everything they have is deeper with a larger magnet or something like that. After searching forums for my vehicle many, many users have purchased 6 x 9s (many of those speakers from Crutchfield themselves) and everything drops in perfectly and sounds nice.
I found out Morel has a 6x9 option! Thinking about doing those in my F150.
Crutch field is way over priced. And my 05 f150 has 6x8’s not 6x9
Hi, Thank you for making these informative vids. Do you have a tutorial on how to match the right subwoofer power according to the speaker power? Thank you for making these informative vids.
My personal philosophy is, if you have a stock head unit and just want more clarity and crispness or to bring your sound to life, start with replacing or adding good quality tweeters. Aftermarket performance speakers with stock radio power is almost never an upgrade. I’m all about keeping a factory radio and adding a 4-channel amplifier for speakers that are at or just below the RMS rating of an amplifier per channel. On the other hand, an aftermarket radio powering stock speakers usually rocks. This is because the factory speakers are made to do every job with low power. I’d rather overpower speakers than the opposite. If you aren’t looking for more power with a factory radio you can find cheap aftermarket speakers online that are made to replace the factory ones with the same low power rating, except better cones and surrounds to last longer.
Best speaker is a pizza box and neodymium phone speaker. It sound better than speakers for 15eur. Considering a pizza costs less you only need a neodymium speaker.
Maybe a piezzo speaker would work as well. Haven't tried that one.
I just got my 500$ worth of sound deadening and treatment. My car got so much road noise and after a quick investigation I understand why. No deadening in the doors and roof. So now I have to go over the hole care. It was not the plan but in these days we have now it's hard to finde a descent car to a decent price and I'm to cheap to just sell and buy something else.
so I plan on doing three 3.5 inch tweeters under my dash to replaced factory speakers with two 6 inch speakers behind my seats to replace factory speakers and then I plan to have a sub in the far back of the car. Do I need to run all 5 speakers to an amplifier along with my sub? or do I only need the amplifier for the sub?
You might get away with only a single amplifier powering the sub, but it also depends how efficient the tweeters and 6 inch speakers are. 2 major factors come into play. 1 is that the majority of receivers don't have a lot of power output, so the tweeters and 6 inch speakers will not be receiving much. 2 is the now aplified sub, could begin to drown out the other speakers, either from just raw volume alone, or combined with polarity phasing. You can opt to make the amplified sub more timid thru various ways, which could help with the overwhelming volume difference, but it might still suffer some phasing. If money is tight, just pick at each area as you can, when you can. Ultimately you want to get to a point of having all the speakers externally amplified, and a quality DSP controlling the signal.
My build plan rn is 6x9 jl audio c2 speakers in the front, 6-1/2 in jl audio c1 in the back running off an alpine r2 amp and a downfiring kicker L7T subwoofer with a kicker CXA 800 amp, I’m going for sound quality and good volume, what do you guys think?
Man been watching you for at least 13 years and now I finally want to do a car solo. Might need your help I'll subscribe. Whatever it takes by the way I'm 56
what is the backing you put on the metal?
I use crutchfield for most of my purchases but one of my vehicles like the 2020 maxima, they don’t offer much for it but i found out like replacing 6X9 with 6.5 and 6.75 focal flax and found it work well. 3 way up front, Coaxial is rear with a Fiberglass sub
I'm with you on that. I have a 2013 Sentra my options are limited to
Am installing a head unit 2 - 6.5 round speakers. Don’t want to cut holes yet. Will build a wooden box till interior redue
Something I never hear anyone talk about is preamps. If you are gonna run an amp, having a head unit with 7 volt preamps is gonna make a huge sound difference opposed to 1.5 volt preamps.
@Cee-i4p If you are running high quality digital amps at high loads, you will notice a difference from 5 to 7 volts. For most part though, you are right. I went though a phase where I tried every single amp and deck combo imaginable.
If the idea is to get better sound then you should probably change your head unit 1st
A quality head unit with ample power will give you good sound from stock speakers
Stock systems usually sound cruddy because they don't have enough power Or the quality Of after market units
Yes, I’m learning that as I just bought a 2020 Honda CRV EX-L and the problem is it’s an infotainment system… so upgrading that will most likely mess up the electronics and sensors that’s tied into the car. I know Joy something makes a decent infotainment system but it’s finding someone to install it correctly and not take shortcuts
Can you do a jeep wrangler specific upgrade video? If you're willing. Thank you.
Here you go th-cam.com/video/YtI7EMNim_M/w-d-xo.html
I need to replace front speakers and tweters, i have Renault scenic 2... What do you recommend, budget from 50 to 80 dollars or euros?
Trying to figure out a sound system that will fit in speaker location, for a 2001 VW Cabrio. Planning a sub in trunk, prefer 8”.. maybe 10.
I bought Kicker KS instead of CS 6”x9” and 6.5” for my Tacoma (running DS18 tweeters already). I’ll be upgrading the stereo in time, but it might even be a few months. Did I buy the right ones for sound? I did do it for longevity. Any suggestions for a good stereo that works with my rear view camera and steering controls would be appreciated. Thank you
Could you cover adding a amplifier and sub to a plug-in hybrid?
I have been watching you for quite a long time. You are awesome. Really enjoy your videos.
Hello and thanks a lot for very good guidance on this channel. What would be the best setup for a small cabin car (toyota mr2 aw11) it has speakers in the dash pointing upwards and in the door as well. I would like to get a small subwoofer behind the seat, but I am unsure if I need a 2 speaker setup for the door as well as a integrated 2 speaker setup for the dash (so in this case 4 high frequency domes and 4 midrange speakers. Thanks a lot
I ordered some kappa 4x6 component speakers do you think I should use filtering capacitors/bass blockers on them for loud hip hop ? Dash speaker 98 lesabre 6x9 rear
Crutchfield will tell you that certain speakers won’t fit your vehicle if they don’t carry the adapter ring. For instance, crutchfield said hardly any 6.5” speakers would fit the rear doors on my 4runner. I found an adapter ring somewhere else which gave me many more options for speakers.
That being said, I still buy some things from crutchfield. Just be aware that you should do more research if crutchfield says something won’t fit/easily mount and it seems like it should.
What year 4runner?
I think it is more that Crutchfield only says something fits if it fits with no modifications or adaptors whatsoever. Even if they carry the adaptor their automated tool will say a speaker does not fit. They do this for the obvious reasons. I know in my car none of the speakers I have "fit" on the Crutchfield site, yet they all fit with easy adaptors or adjustments. I agree with your main point, many things fit whether Crutchfield says they do or not, just that I understand why crutchfield feels they have to do that. and yes, I like Crutchfield, they have good prices and are fair and honest.
Good video but we need a list of brands that were great but got assimilated and are still good and those that are crap. A rebrand list would be great too.
All that you need to know is Focal and Morel. and JL subs.
Really?? Infinity and hertz are shit then??
questions what are a good clear solid speaker for a old vehicle...2005 chevy tahoe..thank you
Rockford Fosgate
@@kensmechanicalaffair....Thanks...
hey i need to know if having a 2 way speaker while also having a tweeter does this affects the sound quality
Could share more information on the all black 3.5in mid range speaker you were holding in the beginning of the video?
JL Audio C2-350x 👍
@@CarAudioFabrication do you know if the JL audio 3.5in get as loud as a 6, 6x5 or 6x9 mid range speaker?. Not a mid bass speaker.
Depends. Generally speaking more cone area means more output. If a factory location allows for a larger speaker size you should go with that larger size.
@@CarAudioFabrication ok I appreciate the reply.
Can you put a aftermarket stereo system in a lease ? Does it void warranty , will the dealer charge for damage ?
It won't void anything, but remember you will have to put all of the original equipment back in before returning it, otherwise they will charge you for the repairs.
@@Technotranceism hi thank you for answering my question much Appreciated
For $300 from Crutchfield i just got all 6 speakers for my trunk and did go cheap on them
Used Crutchfield to replace my factory speakers in my '14 Lexus IS350 with Mark Levinson system. Used Rockford Fosgate Punch and Power series. Factory speakers were way louder. Smh. Now have to spend more to get them sound they way they should. Was told about $1,200 installed.
You didn't watch this video before you bought huh? Lol
I wonder if version 3 of the speaker-aiming tool should include some adjustable feet for angle setting for pattern making.
Great video ! Thank you for sharing this..👍🏽
What’s better
JBL
Pioneer
Kenwood
I have a Chevy impala Ltz with the Bose sound system and I want even better bass.What option should I do
I have a chevy 2009. I have 2 subs. I want better sound. Should i change the head unit or just look for a 4 channel amp/equalizer?
Opinions on the jbl club series ? 605sq
I made it very easy for myself because I only wanted to buy JBL’s that Crutchfield offers and not pay more than around $100/pair
I have a 98 Honda Passport. It has front door speakers on the bottom front corner of the door. Them two more in the east of the truck at the very back top where the hinges for the glass meet the roof of the truck. I don't have speakers in the rear doors. I'd love some ideas to maximize the audio in this truck before i get all my noise insulating done. That way i can do it all at once. I wanted ideas on fabricating an enclosure for the back speakers to direct and refine the sound. Any ideas?
What specs tells me what type of bass the speaker will produce
So i recently bought 4" JBL for my rear doors, they are coaxial. Also 6.5" coaxial to replace my trunk subwoofers which i think i messed up on. Should i have had only gone for normal subs in the trunk?
I have 6.5" pioneers in the front
Definitely should’ve just gotten a subwoofer for the trunk. If it’s in a car where the trunk is closed off, the mid/top range of the speakers would be muffled anyways.
I am upgraded the head unit in my 1997 toyota hilux sing cab ute l already have a kenwood pandora just the head unit and you have given me a lot to think about l got the head unit for nothing and l have only two places to put two 4 inch speakers because l don't want to put holes in my door cards so when l fit them l will be going to get the plug and a microphone for the blue tooth for my mobile phone l have learned a lot from this video thanks
Which passive crossover capacitor do i need for the infinity 4032cfx (4inch) speaker?
400V - 1.5UF capacitor is good?
can i install jbl gx608 and jbl 628 on stock head unit?
What about drivers Mr. Mark? Should drivers even be used? And under what condition..?
They have their uses, and are used in many builds.
@@Technotranceism like for what? Mid range? Highs?
Another option for “some” people and “some” vehicles. Have a audio installer build speaker cabinets from MDF board for your car speakers. This gives you a lot more options for types and sizes of speakers you want. Makes for easier install options. For instance if you have a older work car for your commute, put the speaker cabinets in the back seat. Years ago some people put home speakers in the back seat hooked up to the head unit. I had 10 inch woofer and tweeter home speakers in my work car. Worked great for me, I was rocking them..👍😎
Rear speakers are useless.
Do you stand with your back to the stage at a concert?
Sound should come from the front.
What type of speaker / tweeters do recommend for the best clarity mostly listen to audio books. No after market amp and stock headunit 2018 honda civic hatchback sport touring
I would just replace the factory tweeters with good aftermarket ones, assuming that your car has stock ones. If not, add some with the crossovers. Key word being ‘good’ aftermarket tweeters. Low end ones will hiss with nothing playing. I’d plan on spending upwards of $100. In my ‘12 CR-V before I finished my sound system I just replaced the stock tweeters. HUGE improvement and they brought the sound to life, night and day difference. And I just had some $10 cheap PowerAkoustik tweeters back then.
I have a 2007 CRV. Want to replace factory front speakers. I want sound quality. Any recommendations?
In my vehicle I’m just looking to upgrade my factory speakers and keep factory head unit the factory 3 1/2” speakers are rated at 8ohms and any replacements are are at 4ohms is there any way to remedy this or will it not hurt the 4ohm speaker to run at 8ohms?
Most 4 ohm speakers can handle 8 ohms, it's just can the receiver handle 4 ohms is the concern. There are companies who make aftermarket 3 1/2" 8 ohms speakers, just not a bunch of them.
How can I get the most out of my 4ch amp. All components I see are 4ohm final. Is there any components set 2 ohm final?
Probably, but it involves more on how your speakers are wired, than simply wether the speaker is rated. Both wiring and speaker ohms rating, goes hand in hand.
Would be putting jbl all around the car a good idea?
I ran into an issue doing the speakers in my 03 Cavalier. I bought a matched set from Sony . Front and rear. The reae 6x9s are perfect but the front door speakers are half as loud. I have to push the fader forward by half to balance the sound. Its driving me crazy.
The bad thing about the sensitivity (dB) spec is some manufacturers don’t say which way they tested for it. Some use the 1W/1M (one watt at one meter distance) method, while some others use the 2.83v input (2.83v into a 4 ohm speaker produces 2 watts). 2.83v doubles the power, which adds 3dB to the spec they’re trying to measure. So that is misleading if they only give the dB number without saying which standard they tested it under.
@Cee-i4pno, some do state it. I recently installed JBL Stage 3 speakers in my truck and the sensitivity given was shown as being tested at 2.83V. I was also considering Pioneer speakers and the spec was given as tested at 1W/1M.
Another thing to consider when looking at this spec is the impedance of the speaker. My JBL speakers are 3 ohm impedance. Given the lower impedance and a higher voltage, the speakers were actually tested with 2.66 watts instead of 1 watt. The results still only produced a 93dB rating on the 6x9’s, and 92dB for the 6.5’s. This is very similar to many other companies’ speakers testing at 1W/1M. If the JBL’s were tested at 1W/1M the dB result would have been a good bit lower, so I assume they did this to allow putting a higher number out for the sensitivity. This would seem to suggest that other speakers with similar dB ratings but tested at the 1W/1M standard will ultimately play louder when powered the same as the ones tested at 2.83V, and they probably do on a measurable scale. However in real world use, I can tell little to no difference in volume. The JBL’s can play very loudly on just stock deck power of a 2023 Nissan Frontier (non Fender system), and they sound very clear doing so. No distortion.
So basically, don’t over focus on this spec. It’s good to get an idea of one speaker playing louder than another, or maybe in terms of its general performance (lower dB speakers on an amp can really sound good!) but it doesn’t carry as much weight as you might think. Often the only true way to judge a speaker is to physically hear it.
Thank you Mark, this was very helpful and I was able to dial down to the exact speakers I need for my application thanks to this video.
Does 3.5" and 4" coaxial a mid ranger? or 4" can play lower frequency?
What color are the rear speaker wires I have a 2021 colorado
I been in many car events. And the only ones to beat en all was Memphis Audio. And it was so big that even the store employees came put to beg us to stop the show as inside the manicans were falling off the shelfs.... but only happened to the 2 10s Memphis mojo and the big bell amp. What did it beat? A Cady with 12 Kickers subs. And JBL show car with 6 subs in a honda. Then the Alpine van. Best part. The Cavalier with the Memphis Audio was only on the sound mats all the plastics off and back seat gone.
Ok well here’s what I have. My car is a late 70s Pontiac and has only 3 speakers. 2 on the rear deck lid and 1 in the center of the top of the dash. All speakers are 6x9. So I’m assuming if you want the best possible sound out of that stock setup then all 3 should be 3 way speakers?
Definitely or even 4 way 6x9’s
what are my options for subaru 2024 crosstrek
So if I want louder and good quality I go high RMS and high sensitivity? I have two 12” subs as well
Any suggestions of really good quality brands?
What's your opinion on 12" ds18 shollows.
Thank you. The video is very informative. What about impedance in Ohms?? I am using an android head unit which have speakers impedance 4-8 Ohms but the speakers I am interested in have 3 ohms. Will there be any problems?
Already have a Kicker KS 3.5” mid-high speaker. Do you have any recommendations for a 6.5" mid-low woofer under $200? Considering Hertz C 165 and Alpine S2-S65C (only the woofer part) with the original head unit, which one is better? Thanks a lot.
Just got a 2022 VW Passat. Wanting to upgrade speakers but even crutchfield doesn't have the speaker size. I seen in this video that you was working on a Passat. What was the speaker size on that vehicle?
i got a Question, when converting speaker sizes, for a 4x6 how do you going about changing it to 6x9, i cant find spacer adapters without cutting the frame and im not trying to do that and i dont want the round 6.5s
My c2 speakers push out 60watts rms and my amp will be giving it 75 watts at 4 ohm, will the 15 watt difference damage the speaker?
Can can you recommend. A straight edge router set from mobile solutions.
Awesome awesome video Mark. How you liking that home theater?
question I have a 1968 truck the driver door has a 6x9 hole and the passenger door has a 6" round hole?? what type of speakers would work to sound okay.
What’s the best Jl audio Subwoofer? If I went with a Jl Jd1000/1 amp Please answer and if I went to a shop how much do they charge for making a box like you did in one of your videos
@@joak7058 it depends
Hi there! Quick question.
Can i replace my car's 4 ohm speakers with aftermarket 2 ohm speakers, but dedicated for my car? Im talking about Focal Inside. Thanks.
I have a Lexus with a Mark Levinson amp and the speakers are 8 ohm do I need to stay with 8 ohm speakers.
Hey mark, what is your opinion on skar audio products?
Not to shabby!
What would your first and second choice be for adding a 3rd small 3.5 midrange to the K2 set for a dash speak to go with it. It is in a 22 f150 unleaded system.
I'm looking to replace my 2019 Fusion's Sony front door speakers as one of them is blown. I'm looking at a set of Infinity Reference 6.5" components but I really would prefer not to go the route of replacing the factory amp right now. With 93db sensitivity and 90 watts RMS, I think they would work well, at least I'm hoping so.
I'm assuming you're referring to the Reference 6532iX model, but with a sensitivity of 93db, they should be plenty bright and crisp, but don't expect them to "wow" you with how they sound until you're pushing them with closer to their RMS rating than you will be from a stock headunit... Brand name aside, there's a downpour of negative reviews on sites like Amazon on otherwise great speakers' pages from people who don't understand that concept because they've underpowered them and inherently whined about "their lack of performance". Don't be that guy. 😅
But yeah, you'll likely enjoy the Infinity's product... I loved my Kappa 62iX's!
Whats a good component set thar won't break the bank
What's a good sensitivity and RMS Range for car speakers?
hey quick question. I was digging through my parts bins knowing I had a set of tweeters I could throw in my daily driver to do a quick cheap upgrade only to find that I wasn't careful enough and the plastic like dome is pushed in and now has a small dent. I tried using some tape to pull most of it out gently but its far from perfect. how big of a difference does that make?
It doesn't.
I can never figure out if I need a midrange speaker. I want a set of component speakers, but then what covers that midrange?
Hello there , i have a dodge charger 2010, the sound system of the car is stock and its amazing,, the speakers are boston acoustics 6x9, lately it started giving buzzing noise , so i have to replace them, ive tried many 6x9’z but no use the sound sucks big time, what do you recommend ?
Can you cover a bit about in line crossovers. Are they good? Bad? Benefits?
I can't find what is the speaker arrangement for a Kia optima with infinity system. What kind of speaker I have in each position. Can you help? Thanks
Any novel ideas for replacing Mark Levinson (8ohm) or Bose (2ohm) component speakers? Replacing with aftermarket 4ohm speakers would seem to risk both amplifier life and crossover points.
For Lexus and Toyota JBL - you should stick with the JBL and Infinity speakers, sticking with 2 ohm speakers.
Would it be possible to install a small coaxial speaker in the factory tweeter location, and then installing a better woofer in the factory woofer location? The factory tweeter location is in the dashboard and not in the doors, the doors only have a 13cm/5inch woofer in them.
Is there a way to put a subwoofer under the seats? I do not want to modify the space of my trunk. I have a Toyota Yaris and I just want to upgrade the current retail sound system to a better one, I don't want to win any competitions. I just want it to sound a bit more louder and clearer with bass.
I’m trying to figure out best set up for my 2001 Cabrio. I just sold a 2000 (regrettably) that had a great sound system. I do t know the intricacies of it. Just photos of the speakers, amp, and 8” Rockford sun in rear. They had what appeared to be smaller dash speakers in the factory spot, with tweeters sitting in back of them pointing toward driver. Looked like a small infinity speaker mid range, and the tweeter is likely JL (or infinity) because the doors were JL mids. Amp was a 300 Watt JL. Rears, unsure, finding ones that fit is challenging, but Crutchfield stated I could space the screws with washers and other mods to bring thing “out”. Anyone have ideas of what to buy? It sounded so good! If I could locate the original
O I’d duplicate it as close as possible. It had an older 52 watt X4 Alpine CD player. I’m thinking Kenwood next (I dont like those pop up screens).
I have a cadillac dts and they have 5.25in the doors and want to put 6.5 in the car can I still do it the car is 2007 I know that I'll have to do some fabrication
I have the same car 06 I just replaced them with five and a quarter inch components but you can take out the plastic five and a quarter inch mount and buy a six and a half adapter ring and install that
For the rears I'm not sure if you could install 6 and 1/2. It's it's a slightly different install in the back speakers
I also you sound deadener in the doors double layer 80 mil kill mat. On the outside panel of the door not the inner panel.
Perhaps those of you in the comments can lend some ideas for my replacement project;
2015 Mustang. 4in base radio with 6 speakers (two tweeters and four 6.5s). P/S 6.5 has failed and rattles even with the door bong noise.
Important to note:
I'm not running an amp and do not wish to get that deep into it, I'm only replacing these out of necessity.
With that in mind, what suggestions should I consider? I have heard of powerbass but I've been seeing a few too many reviews saying the cones prematurely fail and the highs are fatiguing after a while of listening.
I travel long distances in my pony a LOT (In Vancouver, BC at the time of this typing, from Missouri) and normally have the radio around vol20.
what do you do when it's a 1936 Ford Coupe and you want a nice system without blowing the window out of it