Car Audio on a Budget? What should you upgrade first and last for YOUR SYSTEM?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ต.ค. 2021
- So you want to upgrade your car audio system but your budget has you wondering what you should get first if you plan to upgrade the amplifiers, subwoofers, speakers, radio and more in stages... What is the best order?
In this video I explain what car audio gear I think you should get first and last if you are upgrading in steps. We discuss head units, subwoofer and speaker amplifiers, subs, speakers, line output converters and more!
🔊 To easily convert your factory signal for aftermarket amps check out AudioControl's LC2i-PRO! Also keep in mind many of the LC2i features (including Accubass) are built into the AudioControl amps! Thanks to them for being a monthly channel sponsor!
✔️ AudioControl Factory System Upgrades: www.audiocontrol.com/car-audi...
✔️ AudioControl Amplifiers: www.audiocontrol.com/car-audi...
🔊 Want more? Check out these links:
✅Car Audio Tutorial Library: bit.ly/CAFlearn
✅ FREE weekly training program: bit.ly/CAFlist
✅ Box Designs, BUILD YOUR OWN BOX!: bit.ly/CAFdesigns
✅Join the CAF Patreon Member Team: bit.ly/CAFpatreon
🔊🔊🔊 FULL VIDEO SERIES PLAYLISTS:🔊🔊🔊
- Ported Downfiring Subwoofer Build: bit.ly/CAFdownfire
- Dad's Sound Quality Daily Driver Build: bit.ly/CAFdadsSQ
- SEMA F150 Subwoofer Box Build: bit.ly/CAFf150
- LOUD Wrangler Build - bit.ly/CAFloudwrangler
- SQ Grand Cherokee Build - bit.ly/CAFgrandcherokee
- Stealth Hidden Bass SQ Build - bit.ly/CAFstealthaudio
Here at Car Audio Fabrication I teach you how to Master Car Audio in an effort to Design, Build, and Install your ideal car audio system. Whether you are a hardcore basshead or a HiFi focused audiophile I would love to have you subscribe and join our community!
-SUBSCRIBE-
th-cam.com/users/subscription_c...
--LET'S CONNECT!-
Website: www.caraudiofabrication.com/
Facebook: / caraudiofabrication
Instagram: @caraudiofab
Snapchat: @caraudiofab
Music:
Switch It Up - TH-cam Audio Library
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
Use of information from this video is at your own risk. You MUST view the full disclaimer here: www.caraudiofabrication.com/di...
Car Audio Fabrication - Master Car Audio - Design, Build, Install - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![ใจเสาะบนเกาะนาคี - อ๊ะอาย สกุณาพร เสียงวิหค [Official MV] | ค่ายเพลงเป็นหนึ่ง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jbcmGQkfyOg/mqdefault.jpg)
For us DIY guys, upgrading the head unit is the first thing to do for several reasons. The first is because it’s often the easiest thing to do and you see, hear and use the results immediately. A new radio in an older car will give you the incentive to do even more upgrades. The second is because the new radio will make it a lot easier to do future upgrades, for example, it’s easier and more straightforward to use RCAs for a subwoofer than tapping into stock wiring or using various converters or harnesses.
I have to do the head unit first or i can't listen to all my 8 tracks
Yeah, for newish modern cars with a screen audio visual systems, I can understand not needing to, but for older cars, Head Unit is definitely the first step, and improved audio quality through factory speakers is noticeable.
@@Gerald5000 is head unit like the actual radio
@@reesestalls2950 yes, it is the thing on the very right for most of the video, in the white pioneer box. Now the usually are like screens. They open up room for the future, mainly by including rca ports that the stock radio usually doesn't
So I installed a loc to factory head unit but I also have an aftermarket one I’m going to install and I’m wondering how I should go about that or what I can do. I used the T taps to hook it up
HU, Sub + Amp + Sound Deadener for the trunk, Speakers + Amp + Sound Deadener for the doors, then Electronic Crossover + EQ or DSP. I usually buy everything piece by piece, then install everything at the sametime.
I agree. I would do HU 1st due to connections needed for everything else and better sound quality to start. Otherwise I would follow the same order you listed.
On a budget $100 amp 2 channel or mono with 8" 10" sub most people don't need all the fancy DSP tools or amplifiers on door speakers get powerful enough head unit add subwoofer an amplifier if you like your hearing think about it
For years i would go for headunit amp an subs leaving doors an door amp last but in recent times i still go that way but leave installing subs an that amp last now i get all my highs an mids right then go with the big bang
There is always placement of these components id rather sound good then just have big bass rattling my car
1ST THING YOU DO IS GET AN AFTERMARKET CAR SECURITY SYSTEM!!!
Thanks Mark for making and taking the time time make the videos. Very helpful info. I check back weekly for New vids and at times find older ones that I have not seen yet. Thank You.
Certainly there are many variables, affecting this choice. Taking my son's car as an example, I'm going to recommend he begin with the head unit. This gives him the ability to integrate with his phone, and provides line output, eliminating the need for a converter. Next will depend on whether really clean, and distinct details are more important than sub. Personally, I was never able to make it to the sub. I only ever had a head unit, small-ish amp and a REALLY nice set of MB Quart mids and tweets. I still use those speakers today, roughly 30 years later.
I'm with you on this one. I find the non-presence of super low frequencies to be on the order of a small annoyance at most that doesn't significantly detract from my enjoyment - as long as the other elements are present and tuned properly. I find the notion that we need massive, massively loud subwoofers puzzling to say the least, particularly when many of us do not listen to things like rap or EDM. In my current build, I'm planning to go with an 8" infinite baffle subwoofer that won't require any sort of boxed enclosure and thus won't take up any room in my trunk.
@Thirteen Thirteen don’t misunderstand. I would LOVE to have the sub. I just also have 50 other hobbies, and very little money for any of them.
I agree 100%. If done right, a good set of components will sound amazing and be a big improvement over stock bass. Then down the line you can add a sub.
I've had subs in multiple cars, Lightning Audio, MB Quartz, Rockford Fosgate P3s, Kenwoods. The biggest pain to me was taking up much wanted space and every time I ultimately went back to taking them out and running mids that were designed for lower frequencies.
In my opinion, sound clarity is 10x more important than bass. I’ve been in cars with just expensive subs in them (everything else stock) and they sound like dog shit.
@@chuckschillingvideos My suv comes with a “subwoofer” in the back. Small. But it’s hidden. I wonder if a shop will put in a sun in there, I think you can fit a 10 inch speaker
I don’t need to knock the block down with bass. But sometimes that stock sub comes up short. The rest of the sound system is fine. ( apparently it’s the highest trim system for a gmc terrain )
Great topic! But I think your vehicle plays a huge role as to what you do first. As a teen in the late 90's, we drove trucks from the 80's and early 90's. Buying a new deck was always the first thing, usually followed by new 6x9s in the doors, and then subs. The stock head units and speakers were complete garbage back then, so we didn't have much choice. You would never get away with doing a sub and amp first. Alot different today with stock head units controlling temp. controls and big touch screens. My 2016 ram is a good example, lots of guys just do the subs under the rear seat, and leave the rest as is. I did JL c1 6.5" components in the front, 3way 6x9s in the rear, ran off a Hertz 4ch and Audiocontrol LC7 i first, and did the subs last.
Glad to see Audio Control is still making high quality stuff. Crazy to see how far it’s come.
I know! I used their stuff long long ago before TH-cam even existed and it was awesome then. Even better now!
I upgraded the door speakers first with Morels, then the processor/ multichannel amp(PP82DSP) and the sub amp(JL Audio RD500/1). Then I upgraded all other speakers. The speakers were definitely a huge upgrade even without the amp or sub.
This channel is packed with so much useful info! Love the content!
I could never get sick of these videos
I start out by saying i have always loved car audio and showing my age installed my 1st system at 16 in the mud 90's. I pride myself on learning as much as I can car audio and new install techniques which is why I watch and subscribe to your channel I lot of it I do know and you have also given me new ideas and ways that have turned out a Lil easier then I have been doing it so thank you. Tou channel is one that when I see a notification I make sure I watch it as I have time. This one is one we differ on which not say either of us is wrong just different thought processes. I feel the HU when possible should be done first just do to better sound output quality as well as better then stock ability to to fine tune sound like with the pioneer Nex series with 13 bar digital eq hpf and lpf as well as slope. I would then move to the stock speaker replacement if you have the ability donthe ampnat the same time if not then shortly after. Now if unable to change out the factory head unit or the replacement is say a 2010-15 f150 where you will be upgrading the factory integrated radio to a vertical tesla that will give you Android auto capability and also incorporate factory integrated control and costing 800.00 then go speakers first followed by line output converter and amp. At that point the sub can be added. I guess this is just personal preference because I feel factory speakers lack the quality sound and the factory amp setting are over attenuated. I also don't feel factory speakers are equipped to not be over powered by a after market sub. But that's just my 2 cents. Love the content I'm off my soap box now
I’m not even close to being considered a pro, but I can say with absolute certainty your path to an ideal sound system is flawless.
Thanks for your videos man. I've been watching you for over 4 years. I love what you do. Don't ever stop.
That's awesome! Thanks for following along! Any cool projects going on?
After doing a few upgrades it's always been stunning the additional range of tones that a good HU adds. Doing the HU first will get your motivation going. Doing speakers first may give you bragging rights but your ears will be happier with the HU.
@@CarAudioFabrication cant believe he never replied to you but ME im installing my old aftermarket head unit and sub from my old car in my corolla 🤓
Thank you!!! Hours of research and this is what I was looking for but didn’t even know it!
I did a head unit first mostly because it was critical to get better functionality to use my phone as a source. That's just because my car is fairly old and the stock head unit was really trash.
I did a subwoofer and sub amp second and would absolutely agree it was a massive upgrade for sound. The stock speakers simply don't produce low frequencies, so adding a sub really improved the overall experience.
Upgrading the other speakers and adding an amp is my next objective, but I'm fairly happy with where I'm at now.
How much did everything cost and how much they charge you to install it?
@@elpucho3444 ever found out?
In my case I'd say: sound treatment first! It really teaches you a lot.
So, I had an old 1999 Micra with an old 1-DIN head unit (no auxiliary!) and 1-way speaker system. Also, little experience with car audio - just one basic build in the past.
That's why I went in a completely different direction and I can recommend this approach - I was trying to make sure my install is good enough to handle higher power, and also to benefit from better speakers in the future.
So: I started with quite solid sound treatment of the front door + 100 EUR Kenwood head unit (importantly, with 6 preamps and basic DSP functions, active 3-way crossovers) + 100 EUR Steg component speaker set. I took my time to sound-treat 75% of the outer door skin with single layers of: 2mm alubutyl + 9mm closed-cell foam, and then added hydrotreated 35mm egg crate foam directly behind the speaker.
What made probably the biggest difference was covering all holes in the inner door skin with treated MDF (I might swap for ABS later, this is a proof of concept). For this tip thanks Mark.
Then I covered 75% of the inner door skin with alubutyl.
This gave me really nice, flat, deep bass even without the amplifier, however at times I crank up te volume to 30dB out of 35 available (even though this is a very small car), so I should make sure your head unit isn't clipping.
What I don't really love right now is how distored guitar solos perform, however it's not so tragic, and any electronic music sounds... well, really freakin' good.
Just recently upgraded my car, as it is daily driver, it should have been done in steps, to keep the car available. Most audible difference came from sound treatment. No sub for this build as available car space is at premium here. No head unit swap either for safety/stealth reasons, realisticly who would want to steal original radio from an old Focus. Found the space for amp behind glove box, reasonably close to connect to head unit, easy to route amp power wires. My expierence: 1. swapped speakers - kinda better, head unit clips, not much of a difference. 2. done sound treatment - got bass, quieter car, owerall this was bigest difference 3. installed amp - another big upgrade, worth saying without sound treatment most power would be lost. Result: not measured with proper cal mic, sounds nice, feels nice too, rear view mirror acts as decibel indicator now, I guess that small crack in windshield have to be fixed sooner now, because it is geting bigger increasingly faster, go figure why... Low notes could benefit from DSP if going without sub, maby in future, probably not.
I did speakers first and went with high sensitivity for the same reason you mentioned, factory unit not very strong lol
It worked out well for me!! Sounds way way way better. I also added sound deadening.
My cheap route - Start with a 4ch amp and a sub.. 2 channels to power stock front speakers, and bridge 3/4 channels to power the sub (leave rear speakers on deck power). This gets you bump to start AND a bit better speaker power. Next up, headunit for control. Then replace speakers to take advantage of the amps power. Finally get a second, dedicated mono amp to give the sub more power while then allowing to unbridge the 3/4 channels for the rear speakers. -- Or a 5 channel + sub cuts out some steps.
i really love listening to loud music in my car when im going anywhere even if its only few minutes drive BUT i literally know nothing about car sound system stuff (only cuz i have no money)
but when i get the chance to ubgrade my system this will be my go to video
thank u man
I'm gonna say radio first for me because... my car doesn't have one
I looked up a replacement for mine and it’s like $2 grand. I’d rather sing to myself.
I upgraded factory tape deck to modern head unit. Then blew 2 speakers so bought front and rear kicker DS when I could save up. Then got a 12" mtx sub, mono amp and 4 channel amp for 200 bucks. Haven't hooked up the 4 channel yet but overall sounds great over stock.
The timing on this video is amazing. Got my drivers license last week and looking to buy my first car right now. I do want some good sound in it, so this channel is a heaven!! :)
Lots of stuff here I think you will like! Thanks for tuning in!
You're gonna have so much fun dude! goodluck!
Shoot! Buy radio then an 4x100 amp to explode those dusty paper speakers!😢😂😂
Great video. I am behind the times with car audio and doing a lot of catch up right now. Have appointment for install and going to get amp for first time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Peace !
I just did a whole audio upgrade in my car recently and I will be the first to say for the average person, avoid dsp headaches. For one you gotta learn what they do and how to make them work which is a pretty daunting task for beginners but also in my case they created noise in my system. After weeks of trouble shooting and trying different DSPs I’ve finally got my system in a nice state.
I would say stick with adding a sub and amp. That gets you the most quality increase! Only change out stock speakers if you’re feeling cheeky or they’re damaged. It starts to get hectic the deeper you go and the type of vehicle mixed with what the stock audio looks like causes so many different options for so many people so it’s hard to narrow issues down sometimes.
Good Luck Everyone!
Most folks aren't DIY'ing, so a competent install shop can easily get you to a good tune. You can then take your time to learn how to adjust your own tune later on.
Should always replace the stock speakers it sounds so much cleaner 🤷♂️
...ur the expert, so ill refer to ur knowledge base... but years past ive always upgraded the head unit first... but i deal with older antique & vintage era cars & im usually lookin to go from an 8 track or a cassette to somethin with a cd player & bluetooth... thanx man, always enjoy ur videos
Replaced head unit after 0:51 20 years stock everything. Replacing that head unit with a full screen unit inspired me to upgrade speakers and wire all speakers directly to unit bypassing the old factory wire harness. All starts with radio radio radio
The man himself 🔥 I always learn something new when I watch your videos ✌️
There are many opinions on this subject and mine doesn’t need to be thrown in also. Mark, as far as I’m concerned, your recommendations are spot on. Plenty may disagree with them, but they make sense. There are no provisions for this in my present vehicle, but it is ancient and throwing good money after it would be comparable to tossing hundreds into a fire pit! It would be different if I was keeping it, but it is worth less than a sub and amp combo. I can wait till I get a newer vehicle since that would be worth the upgrade. Your recommendations are sound about sound deadening and wire upgrades which also are very necessary when upgrading components. Look forward to your next video! Stay safe mates!😊😷👍🏻
My radio only had AM/FM radio. Not even a cassete deck to attatch an aux cord to. It was also intergrated with my climate controls. I had to find an aftermarket stereo with compatibility with a din slot, hard to find and very hard to install but it worked. That one step made me want to install everything else
Excellent video. I’ve been dipping my toe in the audiophile world for so long. My school had phenomenal music room with Genelec speakers then I came across a client with them. But with my job I spend most of my time in my car. I desperately need to upgrade my poor 2013 Mitsubishi audio system
I completely agree with your order with the exception of I would put the head unit first and then the sub and amp. Especially in an older car we’re heading units are pretty trash
I am more than happy with my factory speakers powered by the Audio Control DSP Amp.
Of course the Sub and Amp was my first upgrade.
Mark- I've been reviewing AND enjoying the hell out of your how-to videos for several years, and I've got to say your presentations lack the usual bias so many car audio videos are prone to suffer from.
Brand allegiance, for many enthusiasts, is simply based on what the creator has taken the time to install in their own ride. This can, and HAS, confused so many beginners to the point of giving up on their own ideas and copying an IMO based on this self flagellating & ego boosting nonsense.
You present builds backed by specific build requirements and preferences. You offer top notch advice and step by step instruction for amazingly high quality builds, and you don't make the instructions mysterious to keep the finish look personal for yourself.
I hope you never stop creating videos, and remember: "F#@% the naysayers, they don't mean a thing!"
That last bit of advise sounds like a quote from 311!
@@spiders0420 yes it does, and it is!
Thanks. Almost upgraded the speakers first. Imma go with the head unit first
In my experience, it’s always best to start off with a sub upgrade and evaluate what you want to do next. The couple of times I’ve just went with a head unit, mostly for functionality gains (CarPlay, Navigation, etc.), I always felt the sounds quality suffered. It forced me to do a full system upgrade very soon after.
My F150 with the base audio system sounded terrible. I started with am amp and stealth box & wow was their an improvement. I actually considered leaving as is but ultimately ended up going all out with speakers, amps, DSP and even eventually upgraded at a 10 inch head unit (took almost a year before there was an option to upgrade head unit.
Underrated comment. I'm going through this right now and while I love my head unit, even after a full speaker upgrade I'm finding I don't really enjoy the sound at any settings using the 5-band EQ. Can't get the compatible software to work to use the 7 or 9 Band tuning and I don't have a DSP, but I'm kind of curious how much I should really invest in a full do-over since I've already sank about half of the cars value into parts and accessories. Finding out the hard way patience is a virtue, but it stinks living in an age where by the time you settle on a product, something better gets released. But if you buy the new product first, in my experience, you end up having previously unheard of problems with it. I think anything over $3000 is overkill for the value of my vehicle and my lifestyle. Besides, I like good sound in the vehicle but I also need to hear my powetrain when the stereo is off since I drive a shitbox tuner, so I don't like the idea of soundproofing.
@@athenasblueprint Ive got a 2016 crv and Im not sure if its worth changing the head unit
imo u should do ur speakers first cuz some stock speakers are not good and could get blown out by the subs
The problem with doing subs first on modern cars is the bass cut as you turn up the volume on a stock head unit. So not only are you spending on an LOC, but you need to pay the additional cost for one with bass restoration like what Audio Control offers. By doing radio first, you can save a fair bit in the long run by not needing an LOC to begin with when time to add the sub.
That's assuming you're doing this in stages. If you can only do one thing and no future upgrades, then I can see a sub being a very valid choice.
For my install, I went for HU first, as the foundation and establishing available connections with tidying up all wiring looms (my car was secondhand), then sub amp, amp with wiring, then speaker amp and then door mid and high speakers with fast rings and sound deadening at least in the door panels. This is to enable the focusing of sound into the cabin. For my install, I have skipped a DSP, as it is not necessary for my level of build.
I’m happy with my passive 2 way front stage. I love my Fi Neo 3.5 12 inch sub and Sony Mobile ES speakers, and my Sony XM GS4 and PG Ti3 1300.1. Very smooth clean sound the low bass is very buttery smooth and tight and punchy despite ported enclosure, the mids and highs are as crisp as an apple and very vibrant and smooth. I also like my pioneer AVH 1550 NEX. I also have Killmat and stinger fast rings which helps.
Thank you for this video. Iv been after this information for a while now
For my latest daily work driver car, just a car to get to work and back, I already had my tried and true to form 2 Memphis 12s in a ported box, paired with my Kicker 600 watt monoblock amp, threw that in the trunk, then bought a pioneer hu from 2015 online used for 30 bucks, swapped out the head unit, and my setup even with leaving the 4 car speakers stock sounds incredibly good for a 2004 model car. If you can afford it, I'd recommend doing the trifecta first in any car, head unit - sub amp - 1 or 2 subs in box that is always a guarantee for better sound.
love the vids, great information! thank you for sharing your knowledge!
If you have a newer vehicle you're upgrading I'd say start with a good sub/amp combo, along with your line converter. Then upgrade your factory speakers, and add in a nice amp to bring them to life. If you're able to without losing losing other features of your car, I'd say upgrade your head unit at this time also. Next step would be a DSP. On this same note, this brings me to a question. Myself I've never ran a DSP. But I do see the advantage of them! When planning out these upgrades, would you make a " hub" for these additional pieces "amplifiers, LOCs, DSPs" . I've always built racks for my amplifiers when I had the space. But that's not always the case depending on the vehicle and the equipment. What do you do in those situations??
This list is accurate, i normally buy these in parts but i put them in storage until i get everything and do one big install
I would typically agree with this assessment for the average daily driver short commuter. I drive 1 hour and 45 minutes each way to work and the benefits of a new head unit in a 2009 Forester will make the driver much better. Haven’t researched much on the quality of speakers that came in this car but I will also be replacing the doors speakers before adding an amplifier to power them.
That is a hell of a commute man holy shit
That commute is wild. Your boss better be hot & give you a toss job every day.
I added jl audio tweeters as well an amp and ten inch subwoofer. I used the kicker converter and I am happy with it because it has the audio sensitivity to turn on the remote wire.
My car does turn down the highs and not the bass when in high volume.
I love your videos,really help me undrestand a lot of things about audio systems.What if you are gonna use active subwoofer?should it be the first on your list of upgrades?
I would often do say the headunit first depending on the car.
Especially in an older car where a DIN style unit is bolt in. Not only do they get the speakers a bit of extra umph, but those cars often lack connectivity for phones etc, and you will usually get the outputs for hooking up a sub without needing additional devices.
Personally, in my current van i'm probably gonna do it like this tho:
-Sound treatment
-5 channel amp and sub
-Speakers
-Headunit
Might change the last two around.
But that is because i have the amp, and sub, just need the enclosure, and i want to reduce the noisefloor in the van anyways, and my headunit has some integration so i would need a quite expensive one to be happy with an upgrade.
I did sound deadening first, then bought all the products that I installed. Then I built my enclosure, then the wiring was installed, then the amp rack, amps, and then the speakers.
If you can't change your radio for some reason you can consider putting the aftermarket radio in your glovebox . I had to do that in my honda fit to get the amp connected. Works great .
Having seen a few of your informative videos, i will like to propose a video to use car audio components and strategy for home-theatre with passive bookshelf speakers(4-8ohms) and 2x active car subwoofers(2-4ohms).
Most people will need
= connections to external DVD-bluray player, CD-player, Computer, Game-console, mobile-phone
= pre-amp level summing-mixing (avoid electromagnetic interferance)
= gain controls, some basic EQ and delay for left-right and 2x subwoofer
It will be great to have inputs on shopping and wiring for a 2.2 setup.
1. HU for getting the features you need like hands free, Streaming and so on.
2. Sound deathning for speakers. To give them a cabinets to play in.
3. a good subwoofer in a good cabinet with matching amp.
4. Sound deathning for of the trunk and other parts.
5. amp for speakers.
6. Speakers
I just bought a new car, the okd one had a basic aftermarket system but I want to get a nice serup in this new car cause I’ll likely keep it long term as a gas saver, this video and the one prior came just in time
I just did some sound upgrades to my car, sub + amp, the lc2 and alpine speakers for my doors and rear deck. I doubt I'll ever change the head unit in my car because of how integrated it is to my car but ill switch the dash speakers eventually
In my Tacoma Gen3 4dr, after reading some comments, I replaced the dash speakers with Subaru factory speakers, which are plug and play made by Kicker.
UnBElievable what a difference those made. Piano, cymbals, etc all of sudden came alive! The next thing I did was sound deadening.. Again, what a difference! Both pair of doors, and the back wall of the cab, gave me a 7db drop in road noise. I can now have a normal living rm level conversation at highway speeds. The required listening volume level, on the head unit, dropped by about 35 to 40 percent. The next items on the list is 4ch amp/DSP and a light sub. I like bass to be lightly felt and heard, not 3 blocks away.
More like a concert hall.. I do like occasionally cranking up a rock song or two.. since I was in college in the 70s.
My upgrade path is an amp with DSP built in at the same time as speakers. See how that improves things. May upgrade the head unit later on or even upgrade the speakers again since the first round of speakers will be relatively cheap in the scheme of things. I'm not that interested in subs, but that's just me.
The system I put in my 06 Taurus before was fully standalone. A 1200w 4-channel amp with 2 8"s and a 12" and 15", I hooked the rear to the 2 big ones (L and R bridged so the 15" feeds the 12") and the front to the 2 small ones. I ended up with all the high range in the back seat and all the low in the trunk, just like I hoped😅
Nowadays no need to swap head units usually so if your planning a basic "higher" end system i would start with the d series amps from audio control. The d-5.1300 would be perfect for 80% of people. If you want more base get the d-4.800 or the d-6.1200 depending on your vehicle speaker count as these have a dsp built in and can tune an output channel to your sub amp for whatever you plan to run. My upgrade path was
HU, agm batteries, sound deadening, d-6.1200 + speakers, ho alternator, lc-1.1500 + subs, 500 farad cap bank
(I more or less got everything at 1 time though, but preperation is key lol)
I am limited on space unless i put a camper on my truck lol if you aren't planning on doing a large system i would just spend the extra money and buy a d series amp from audio control you actually save money in the end since you dont to buy a HU or an LOC and a dsp. You could actually buy the HU last in this case if you want to. Unless you want a crazy multi amp high wattage system theres no need to buy the dm dsp im running 12 sets of components of my d-6.1200 and works perfect clear and loud just do your prep work first
yeah I have a 93 Bronco. Someone took the rear speakers out and recently i just blew the tweeters in my door speakers lmao. Ordered some new speakers and eventually i plan on adding an amp for the speakers under the rear seat and even further into the future, 2 12" sub and amp combos into a custom enclosure that runs the edges of my cargo area. figured it all out and can't wait till I get the money to do it all!!!
I have a stock head unit. Upgraded everything, door speakers and tweeters. Along with sub. Have mono block amp for sub and 4 channel for the tweeters and door speakers. I also have a lc7i to get a clear signal from the stock head unit. My head unit is really expensive to replace because the after market dash kit is touch screen climate control, plus upgrading the head unit would cost a lot too, I’d say around $1200 not including installation. So I think I did a good choice on just getting the lc7i on it to save money. Sometimes you gotta cut some corners with this music stuff, but the stock head unit Sounds really nice with the lc7i in my humble opinion.
Right now I have a subwoofer, a set of 6x9’s an 5 channel amp and a nice 1din headunit with bluetooth, 3x rca out etc. And ofcourse I already have all the materials like the wiring. The only thing I have to buy when I get my first car is a set of speakers for the front doors because I dont know wich size they will be yet.😀 I bought all this when I had money that I could miss in a span of around 3,5 years. Hope to get my first car in a few months now!
Good video. Sub is always a good upgrade for most cars, even modern ones unless manufacturer did a good job, for instance 2016 Golf R with premium sound has an insane setup with woofer.
Regarding what after a sub, I would say it really depends on how old the car is and if the car stock speakers are just paper cone with weezer cones. If you're on paper cones with weezers, hands down replace those with either component or 2-way speakers.
In my car, I went in the following order
Speakers
Powered sub
Amp
Now planning on a dedicated sub and mono amp
Love your videos Mark. I have a couple questions for you. I have a '11 Civic Si sedan. I would like to upgrade the Sub and Amp. I was thinking of going with a single 8 but leaning towards a 10". I did have a 1-10" JL Audio in past, but I'm not sure if there is something better. 1)Which Amp and Sub would you recommend? 2)Would you recommend going with a 5 Channel Amp out the gate or just go with a Mono Channel?
Good information on equipment. With regard to your enclosure builds, what grade of mdf are you using? Do you have any source recommendations? Your work and techniques are amazing.
The first thing to upgrade definitely depends on the vehicle. I’ve had older cars where the first thing I did was upgrade the head unit to get Bluetooth and equalizer adjustments. Now I have a newer truck and the sound system is decent but there no bass, so I would add in a sub/amp as the first mod.
mine is the same order but at first i wanted to do the head unit first but since my car has all those controlls u need build into the factory one its very costly to do a proper head unit upgrade in my car like over 1000$ and that for a cheap one, but i did manage to get 2 12s and amp and a line out converter for less than 300$ on sale at ebay so that was nice. i plan on trying to install it myself this week and ive never done it before so wish me luck
i usually buy speakers and sound deadening first because its the first thing you notice before any amps or subs.
even then i rarely do amps and subs as i usually have sold the vehicle by then.
headunits i do last because: technology can date by the time the headunit comes into the project and i like the latest features.
Exactly 💯% . Been bumping for 30+ years.👍
Lol, I remember people putting big ole floor speakers in their cars.
@@bigboycombo6342 Yup Cerwin Vega Floor speakers 😆
Over the years I've done a couple of builds on my own cars honestly I just enjoy doing it my first go to is speaker upgrades from factory and while the car is dismantled sound deadening and running of future cable's for amps etc , basically future proof the car ready for later on but I do plan how far I'm gonna go for me it's sound quality not all out bass 🤔 although it's good to have it too 🤣
I think if all of this is in your future, I would get a kicker KEY set (4 channel and mono) DSP amplifier and see how that sounds with stock speakers and a small ported sub. That would probably do a lot of people just fine and you get all the benefits from an upgraded system with DSP without the whole DSP customization confusion of better DSP's.
I remember when I got my 1st car which was a 92 jeep xj and I couldn't wait to add in a sound system cuz all four speakers were working but the foam surrounds were gone so they sounded like crap and my first upgrade was the speakers and then an aftermarket head unit and then a kicker subwoofer and hifonics Zeus amplifier
for me first got subwoofer 2 15’s ,extra battery , prv door speakers , and mono amp & 4 channel amp, equalizer and crossover then at last i upgraded my alternator . I got my stock radio on my hyundai sonata 2014
So I started off my build with cheap speakers that could handle a little more power because I had a extra head unit laying around. So I just got some cheap $100 kicker speakers. My next upgrade was a mono amp and sub woofer. And I was okay with that build for about a year maybe year and a half. And now. I am going back into upgrading. I just bought a Alpine ilx F-509. Going to be leaving the subwoofers (2 12” Kicker subs. Powered by a 800 watt mono kicker amp) But adding another kicker amp. This one being a 75W x 4 channel. And I plan on upgrading speakers. I want to get components in the front haven’t quite decided what I’d like however, I think where I am at right now. All 5x7 kicker speakers with 2 12” subs and a brand new radio Im extremely happy with the how it sounds and definitely way better than I planned it ever sounding for a first car.
I feel if you are going to go with a big bass set-up I feel it would be ideal to upgrade your interior speakers first otherwise the big bass will drown out the stock junk.
I would say head unit, speakers, 4/6 channel amp, subs/amp, DSP.
First thing I did was put a jvc head unit in then I put mmats pro audio Ls series 6.5s and two 4x10 Memphis speakers in place of the stock speakers in my 99 suburban. Going to put an amp for my mids and highs in next.
2013 Ford Focus Titanium Sedan... Plan is JL C2 speakers first front&rear, along with replacing MFT with Sync3 v3.4 (or newer), then replace the factory DSP with an AudioControl LC6.1200, and finally replace the factory sub. At some point along the way, the entire shell will be wrapped with sound deadener, headliner will be thermally and acoustically treated, and rattles sorted.
Realistically, Im going to do the soundproofing last. Once everything is installed, and I don't have to pull the interior apart anymore, then sound deaden, replace the fasteners, etc, so that its entirely rattle free.
even before watching the vid i would agree the sub makes a huge difference, most stock sound systems lack the lowend, even the premium ones
I’m trying to do my Prius so for me it would be a HU then a 5 channel amp to run speakers and sub all at once 👍🏼
I feel that a big one to upgrade first is the car's electrical system, by doing the Big 3 and then start with a sub and monoblock amp.
Yuppers, good video mark!!
I love your video the only thing I didn't understand anything about all this ...
I just trying for the first time install sound system in my truck but I'm looking for something good and I want to do it myself. Would be great if you have a video explaining with a diagram or something like it, for people that don't know much like me.
Thanks for your video really nice!
Love your videos love to see one just for the jl wrangler keeping stock head unit and if there was a way to keep stock sub enclosure in back. I like to keep everything looking stock for prying eyes
I think replacing the factory speakers should be first. Sometimes throwing a set of NVX N-series speakers gives people enough sound quality improvement for their needs.
My wife was amazed what 4 6x9s did to her classical music and kpop in her 2012 Camry!
Oh yeah, I also modified the dash slightly to accommodate 4” Infinity Reference speakers and bass blockers for 6x9s.
I haven’t gotten around to wiring in the amp for her 2 ohm Kicker L7 12” truck box, yet. 🤣
I disagree, I just replaced 4pcs of 25W @4 OEM speaker on my FORD with 45W @4 after market speakers without change HU or add an external amp, the sound quality is almost the same, the volume output was even sounds weaker compared to OEM speaker. Apparently the factory head unit uses built-in amp IC which can't provide enough power to drive upgraded 45W speaker, now Im consider to sell those after market speakers and get a decent amp instead.
I apologize, but I'm a complete amateur. Could you provide a link to the exact speakers you purchased? I primarily listen to classical music and have a 2014 Toyota Corolla, so I think the speakers your wife got would be perfect for my needs. I know you mentioned NVX N-series, but I just want to make sure I pick the exact same speakers.
@@jamestien6761 i experienced the same thing. Do you think adding an amp will better power the aftermarket speakers?
@@jamestien6761 when replacing these speakers u shouldve went with 3ohm set or even a 2 ohm set.. with high impedance.. ive had some helix/focal/blam speakers that are high impedence and easy to install.. dont know about availability in us though.
@@hawaiianhonu97 Yes. Adding even a small 25Wx4 or 50Wx4 amplifier will provide cleaner power for your aftermarket speakers.
im upgrading the audio on my 67 beetle, which only had one single speaker in the dash from factory, so I'm basically building my audio system from the ground up, I did a head unit and two rear speakers first, because theres nowhere to mount one in the front (the dash spot now houses gauges) and they currently just sit behind the back seats on the carpet with no box. Need to install front kick panels for speakers, as well as get speakers to put in them, and will probably get a sub for the rear as well.
Great channel, keep it up
Hey man! Love your videos. On the LC2I Pro can you run both RCA outputs at the same time? I imagine you can for a multi amp setup but figured I would cover my bases 😂
Nice video. They all are, but I needed this one. Thank you! What is the going opinion regarding powered subs? I want to upgrade my wife’s car bur she doesn’t like complicated stereos. So I plan on keeping the factory radio. She likes it and knows how to use it so she’s happy with it. Everything else will eventually be upgraded.
I recently put in a dual 10" Memphis Audio subwoofer in my 2013 Mercedes C300 (stock system, no Harman Kardon). The subs were a solid upgrade. Although the factory speakers are not completely TERRIBLE, I do want a little more clarity out of the door speakers. Here's my upgrade path: Subwoofer/mono amp (already done), front speakers with high input sensitivity (JL C1/C2 or Hertz Cento/Mille), 4-channel amplifier, rear speakers. After reading some forums, aftermarket head units will mess with the functionality of things like steering wheel controls, and the Audio20 factory head unit apparently sends 25W rms to each channel. My signal is also kind of scuffed because it's going from usb-c on my phone, to a DAC dongle, to a proprietary connection to the car (MMS). I REALLY rather not mess with the head unit if I can help it though. I think swapping out the head unit can even DEVALUE the car. I'd like to know what others' opinions are.
The order that you specified sounds very logical. Once you've made a change, the rest of the system just has to follow!
I don't think I qualify as an audiophile, but I do like things that work well. And having not had any car in the past with anything other than stock audio, I have a couple of questions.
I recently bought an older SUV, so if I save up and do it all at once, will it need the LOC? I don't think so, but not sure.
Also, with driving it only about 5ooo miles a year, is a DSP going to be a difference that is noticeable enough to justify the added cost?
In my case I have an '07 Mustang with the Shaker 1000. So I'd start with a solid 5.1 amp utilizing speaker input likely the AC d-5.1300. Next round would likely be the speakers, and finally the Head unit. Speakers are an issue, as I'd want to use stock locations and depths, so it's best sound for the location. The Head Unit would likely be a Panasonic 7" screen of some level.
My upgrade path is based on budget....as head units are fairly inexpensive that's my first upgrade followed by speakers as they can be inexpensive too. Followed by the more expensive gear in order of personal affordability
in my opinion for an upgrade path I would go for Head Unit first, better door speakers with amplifier second, third would be electrical upgrade to handle the next part, subwoofer fourth, lastly if wanted lighting foir the system.
Just bought a mid 2000’s Hyundai and I am goin in he order of radio, subwoofer and amp as one. Speaker is fine still.
1.) HU
2.) Speakers
3.) Subs & Amp.
After these are done, I would do DSP’s and other things later as need. I also would upgrade my stock battery until I route my setup to its own battery. I know the numbers more clearly as I can hear their performance. If I want to go more audiophile, then that’s what I can see more clearly.
Hi! Car audio noob here. First, thanks for this break-down of upgrade stages, it's a BIG help before I just dive into it.
I do have a question about amplifiers. You have a Sub amp, and then a Speaker amp. What's the main difference between the two, what is the benefit of having seperate amps, and is it absolutely necessary to have two vs. one?
Thanks!
Well said buddy.. Thank you
I go:
Head unit
Amp(s)
Door/Panel speakers
Sound deadening
Subs
My 6 1/2 image dynamics coaxial put out enough bass to create rattles. So I don’t push them half of what they are capable. I don’t really need subs at all. (But that’s what I’m doing next). That’s how much bass a good pair of coaxils with high power handling and a good amp can put out.
I agree with upgrading amp before factory speakers tho. They might be good enough for you that you don’t need to replace them.
Thank you Mark, Very good video and preferences. Question can i change the Bose Amp in my Nissan Maxima Platinum and run a new amp to run the speakers before i add speakers?
Great video
Personal opinion, head unit, sound treatment, electrical, sub and amp, mids and highs, 4 channel for mids and highs, and finally a dsp.
I upgraded my radio first then a year later I got the idea and upgraded with 2 subs n amp then door speakers but I will be changing them and doing components with an amp as well
I just bought a bone stock 1986 rx7 and the furst thing i did was change the head unit. Once that was in i noticed 3 of the 4 stock audio system speakers were blown. I got some basic 4 inch pioneers for the front and 6 1/2 inch kickers for the rear. All in im into it less than $500.
Awesome stuff