Single vs Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer - Which is BEST? Wiring Explained!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- When you are choosing a subwoofer for a car audio system you will need to choose either a single or dual voice coil subwoofer. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? How do you wire a dual or single voice coil subwoofer? Should you use series or parallel wiring? Let's discuss!
🔊 Need speaker wire for your car audio build? Check out our show sponsor KnuKonceptz!
✔️ +Karma Speaker Kable" Speaker Wire - www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...
🔊 Want more? Check out these links:
✅Car Audio Tutorial Library: bit.ly/CAFlearn
✅ FREE weekly training program: bit.ly/CAFlist
✅ Box Designs, BUILD YOUR OWN BOX!: bit.ly/CAFdesigns
✅Join the CAF Patreon Member Team: bit.ly/CAFpatreon
🔊🔊🔊 FULL VIDEO SERIES PLAYLISTS:🔊🔊🔊
- Ported Downfiring Subwoofer Build: bit.ly/CAFdownfire
- Dad's Sound Quality Daily Driver Build: bit.ly/CAFdadsSQ
- SEMA F150 Subwoofer Box Build: bit.ly/CAFf150
- LOUD Wrangler Build - bit.ly/CAFloudwrangler
- SQ Grand Cherokee Build - bit.ly/CAFgrandcherokee
- Stealth Hidden Bass SQ Build - bit.ly/CAFstealthaudio
Here at Car Audio Fabrication I teach you how to Master Car Audio in an effort to Design, Build, and Install your ideal car audio system. Whether you are a hardcore basshead or a HiFi focused audiophile I would love to have you subscribe and join our community!
SUBSCRIBE
th-cam.com/users/subscription_c...
LET'S CONNECT!
Website: www.caraudiofabrication.com/
Facebook: / caraudiofabrication
Instagram: @caraudiofab
Snapchat: @caraudiofab
Music:
No Music
Use of information from this video is at your own risk. You MUST view the full disclaimer here: www.caraudiofabrication.com/di...
Car Audio Fabrication - Master Car Audio - Design, Build, Install - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
As someone who used to run a car audio shop, the main benefit was carrying less inventory :)
Haha this is true.
Hey man, can i wire 2 4ohm dvc and 2 4ohm svc together on a 2 ohm stable amp?? If ao whats the wiring scheme for it?
Glad you broke this subject down for the new folks, and us old guys too who needed a reminder.
I'm back in the bass scene after 23+ years, and the audio shop has been bringing me up to speed on all the advance changes. What a difference from the 90s. I've been convinced to wire my brand new never used 2x12" Pioneer IMPP (From.1998) subs @ 450w max @ 4 ohm in parallel to run on 1000w 1 ch amp to 2 ohm. Can't wait to hear this.
Great Explanation! You are always able to explain complex audio concepts in a manner easy for the average noob (like myself) to comprehend. Well Done!
Good stuff my man, i appreciate all you guys for teaching us these things especially when were trying to get our car audio together. 👌
In my truck, I am running 2 - 12” subs that are both single voice coil but are hooked up in parallel. In my daughter’s truck, we are running 1 - 12” dual voice coil subwoofer hooked the coils in parallel. Both sound good.
Nice explanation of everything. I've had a couple systems. Always single voice coil. I didn't even know how to do the ohm calculations, until seeing this.
Learned that in high-school reading car audio magazines. 1991.😏
thanks for your time and video i’ve learned a lot watching you videos! you have a way of explaining to slow learners like me lol
I had a 2 dual voice coil 2 ohm subs wired in series and parallel to get me to my final of 2 ohms. Worked amazing sure miss that system 😢
Glad I watched, very new at this, had the understanding that a dual vc sounded better
I run Cerwin Vegas because they have dual voice coil subs that let you select the impedance by rotating a jumper terminal on the speaker and there are only two speaker terminals you have to deal with.
My best setup in tha mid 90’s
3 JL Audio 10w6’s in a sealed box on a 50watt Orion HCCA 2 chanel amp bridged to .5 ohms 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
1 DVC 10". It's what fits in my truck and it sounds really good.
Thank you for your videos
Outstanding knowledge I’m 44 and still thumping 1500 watt 12, hearing is not the same😅 but always been a give and take relationship. No rear view mirror is safe with me, normally shaking the mirrors of the car in front of me,Pinellas co. Florida
Or single 1 ohm coil as well. My T2S1-16 comes with a single coil at one or two ohms. Just adding that to your video I personally liked single coil, much more simplified, but people could avoid the load confusion if they just preplanned their builds better. Love your stuff keep it up man.
I've got a pair of JL 10tw3's wired to 4 ohms in a ported box, on a JL HD750. It's a great setup!
I have one 10TW3 in a Stealthbox and it POUNDS! I can’t believe how impressive these are!
Currently running a Pair of JL W0V315’s (single voice coil 4ohm) on a JL RD500 amp, have the subs hooked up separate at the box, sealed enclosure, and at the amp it has “2ch” but it’s internally bridged for parallel so the amps seeing a 2ohm load, for being in a ram truck is a lot of pressure I think it’s just right for the space and the door speakers capability as well.
I have a couple of Skar DDX15-D2s I installed in set of vintage Pioneer HPM 1100 speakers. To drive these, I had to bi-amp them. I let the Onkyo theater amp’s front speaker terminals handle the top set of speakers, and its front speaker pre-amp outs go to a Crown XLS 2502 pro-amp, which handles the bottom 15-inch subwoofers. I did try one single coil on each speaker, as the Crown pro amp pushes this 2Ω load at a 1200-watt (RMS) potential per channel. Then I connected my Skar's 15-inch woofer's dual coils in series. the Crown pro amp pushes this 4Ω load at 775-watt (RMS) potential per channel. The bass is a bit tighter at 4Ωs, but it's not quite as loud. I do prefer a naturel well balanced sound. In this system, you can feel the bass a lot more so than hear it.
I do the math a little differently from you. With a two-impedance load, times two if it is wired in series, and times One-half if it is wired in parallel. With a three-impedance load, times three if it is wired in series, and times One-third if it is wired in parallel. Do this for each step of combining loads.
O and Mark..bro please make some videos with those svc subwoofers u use all the time lately i haven't been able to find any videos of them in action
Great video. I wish id been able to see your diagram for wiring two duql voice coil tw3 subs.
Mark, just so you and your viewers know that's the complex way of figuring parallel resistance. As long as the 2 individual components are the same value.. say 2 single coil subs@ 4ohms each, you can simply take the ohms of 1 speaker and divide by the number of speakers. But this only works when the value is the same.
The correct math is simple. I rather teach the correct way, that way in a case that they aren't all the same value, if you were doing something else electrically, it's done properly.
@@CarAudioFabrication I think you took that wrong. I wasn't saying your way was wrong, but neither is mine. They are both correct just used for different situations. And in the electrical field we use all 3 ways.
Great video and explanation. Keep doing more of this explanation kind of videos.
Cheers from Portugal.
Running 3 dual 2 ohm 15” subwoofers and have each wired down to 1 ohm beings I have 3 amps , 1 powering each sub at 1 ohm 👍🏻
I ordered 2 box designs from you, the last one was 2 JL audio TW3’s and I’ve got them wired to 4ohms with my Fosgate 1500bd and of course I’ve got it turned down a little but it sounds great.
I’m running two SVC kicker compC 10’s
Bro i dont care what anybody says i truly appreciate your videos u explain things in a simple way not assuming people are stupid
WELL SAID! You can most certainly tell he LOVES to teach what he knows, and explains it soooo well!
Need to consider box rise and increased AC voltage requirements when wired in series
Thank you again, Mark for passing on your knowledge. Love your videos.
With that said, I would greatly appreciate your advice on my future set up. 06 Silverado crew cab. I purchased 4 10Tw3 for behind the rear seat (replacing current RF subs). Wich JL Audio amp would you recommend to run to power the 4 subs on 2ohms?
Thank you.
The RD1500/1 is a great choice for that.
@CarAudioFabrication
Mark, I really appreciate you getting back to me brother.
I will look into that amplifier. 👍💯
Hello, I have two kicker 12s same specs. But they gave me one single and one dual, can I wire both of these together to the same amp?
Hey Mark! Thanks for this information. It is very helpful. Quick question though, I bought a 4ohm DVC subwoofer. I parallel wired it to make it 2 ohms thinking that my amp was 2 ohms stable. The amp couldn't handle high volume and that's when I realize that the amp is 4 ohms stable and not 2. So my question is, should I wire the sub in series to get 8 ohms; should I wire only one side of the coils to get 4 ohms (which you said not to on this video) or should I return my sub and change it to a 4 ohm SVC? Thanks in advance
Im running single 2 ohm coils. I built my own subs also tho. Running 6 15s in a 4th order wall. Quad stack motors and 3" peak to peak linear excursion. They can handle about 2500 rms each and can play from 20-60hz. Fs-27hz, vas-1.5ft³, qts-0.8. Not for competition. Only demos.
Can you make a video of how does Equalizer work for sound audio
Well Mark since u ask..i have 2 ,4ohm DVC wired to a 2 ohm load my first were 2, 4 ohm SVC subwoofers and tbey were "loud" I DO feel as if the DVCs are louder but in this case they actually are better quality subwoofers
I have a question for a future video since I cannot find that you handled this exact subject before
I bought a new car recently and the way I want to use it combined with an audio system means that I either have to go with under(front)seat subwoofers or have a box that's super easy to take out of the car, preferably an active one (so there's literally just power, line and remote wires to hide).
I can use the seat fastening brackets in the rear for a subwoofer (going to throw half the seat out, just 2 seats in the rear anyway), is this something that can be used in your opinion?
Regarding underseat subwoofers I would probably go for prefab, closed, active ones there too, is there anything special to think about when going that route, like how much space is needed between the speaker and the seat for the audio to actually get out in the car? Is it hard to build underseat subwoofers on your own for the front seat? Loved your backseat underseat video but it really doesn't apply for this tight space.
In your final example of same rms at 1 ohm vs 4 ohm, will the 4 ohm be able to run louder without clipping vs the 1 ohm?
I'm going with two AudioControl spk-10s4 and wiring them to 2 ohms
I'm currently upgrading my factory subwoofer it's a single 10" dual coil sub, what would the reason be that they did this from factory? Also if I replaced it with a single coil could I just wire two out of the 4 wires to the sub and be OK? Thanks
Question: if I have a 4 channel amp that is 4ohms does that mean each channel is 4ohms or would I need to do different wiring to do a 4ohm load (speakers are also 4ohms) so like with a subwoofer if you wire in parallel you would get a 1 ohm load would I need to do that with the speakers on a 4 channel amp to or just hook the speakers up normally to each channel
Mark I am putting a system on my son's car it's a 2014 Scion TC. I have a 1200 watt hifonics Zeus bass amp and I have 2 L 5 solo barics square. I need dimensions for a box plz and info on how to get the most bass out of it
So could I use a 2 channel amp, and use each of channel to each coil on a dual voice coil subwoofer, if I was to just use 1 one side of the inputs split to both channels so that they'll receive the same sound?
I wanted to run Sundown Audio! They just straight up don't make an SVC subwoofer! So I run DVC subs😎
Hello brother lov your channel it’s basicly a university for car sound 👏🏾
I did buy for a friend a rockford prime r2 500x1 amp with a JLaudio Tw3D4 sub.
But im confused how to plug the jlaudio sub. In series (giving me 8ohm) or parallel (giving me 2ohm)
The amp is rated for 500w @2ohm and 300w @4ohm
Which is the best wiring parallel or series
Im not worried about the warranty void because the max that the manual asks is for 400w power at the amp.
Today I learned that I had wired my previous cars dual coil for 8 ohms instead of 2
OOF! That's rough, probably didn't have much output.
@@CarAudioFabrication no I was always dissapointed with that sub, now I know why!
I have (2) 12” Polk DXi, DVC, dual 4 ohm voice coil subs, is it better to “Bridge” the amp or “Not Bridge” when wiring the two subs? (1 ohm stable amp). so this question is dual channel vs single channel wiring.
“Bridge” the amp and wire the (2) subs with a “single” channel, parallel/parallel for (1 ohm).
Vs
“Not Bridge” the amp and wire (2) subs “dual” channel, parallel each sub (2 ohm).
I haven’t tested this myself, I normally run them on the 2 channels.
Hey, I think I have a silly question, possibly🤣
I'm playing with the idea of having a cheap soundsystem that can give the outputs of a high end soundsystem, and my idea is to have four 8 cm, two on each side, but where the 8 is going to sit, the idea is to have small formfactor to hug the 8 ones for pressure and gradually widen it out to 2 passive radiators, is there any gain from this or do I loose more bass than if I did it with just a one size enclosure?
I want as much pressure as possible coming from the small ones to feed befy radiators with pressure, do you think this is possible?
I 💚 my 12tw3 d4.. its the mostest my civic can handle... 75% without any rattle... Over thst is 😢
The TW3 is seriously a modern marvel. The ability to create incredible sounding solid bass in such a small air volume and space is crazy.
@@CarAudioFabrication I've heard three 10TW3s that almost "rivalled" my single 13W7, almost. They are truly miraculous feats of engineering!
The weight difference between dual and single coil woofers, would usually mean more metal is put in the dual coils, this could potentially give higher power potential, but the significance is usually small, because whether you can push 1200 or 1400 watts through a woofer has very little impact on performance. Also it is not guaranteed that the rest of the sub can take more power, even if the coils can.
However, higher moving mass usually gives lower FS. The extra coil also gives you more flexibility, and you can tap the output from 1 coil, if you want to measure it and experiment, but it will never be as good as a optic sensor or an accelerometer though, if you ponder on servo systems.
Hmmm.... Just started watching - Always thought Dual was the better choice for wiring options. Let's see if I'm right/wrong.
Yay - my old school knowledge is still useful. .
What makes a sub 2 or 4 ohm , is the size of the wire around the coil or what?
1 12in dual 3 ohm Earthquake Magma wired to 1.5 ohm, to a 2 ohm stable Profile baja amp 1200 (the blue one).
I've been researching into this topic and I came across information that claims a sound quality difference between wiring for 2ohms vs 4ohms. And I'm not talking about volume, I'm talking about sound quality and reproduction. Can you please cover that in detail?
good explanation. now just to get a car to put some subs in..............
I have a dilemma. My subwoofer is a 4 ohm single coil but the amp is rated for more power with an output of a final impedance of 2 ohms. I have the Skar SK-M9005D amp. All the other speakers are wired to a final impedance of 2 ohms. It appears that a single coil subwoofer cannot be configured to a final impedance of 2 ohms. So, I am running all midranges at 2 ohms and the subwoofer at 4 ohms. Not so sure if this configuration works well for this type of amp. Thanks for the advice if any provided.
Hii brother,
I am very well stucked can u please help me out
I have a 2 channel a/b amp boss pt1000
And 2 svc 4ohm subs
I want to bridge my amp and take the utmost power but its 4 ohm
Is there any way to pair my subs at 2 ohm and also have the briged wattage from the amp ??
Please advise i have installed my system myself and now stucked at this phase 🙏🏻
Ty
So the advantage of 1 ohm load over 4 ohm load is that the amp will be cheaper! :) But I’ve heard that 4 ohm load is more precise because 1 ohm load easily looses control - is this true?
I tested this. I have a single JL 13W7D1.5 AE and I tried both 3 ohm (series) and .75 ohm (parallel) and I have settled on parallel. If you are running a decent amplifier and your electrical is solid, you shouldn't notice any sonic differences. I was hard core against low impedance configurations until I tried it for myself. Most UNREGULATED amplifiers that will run and are stable at low impedances will provide (proportionally) higher dynamic capability into lower impedances. With the 13W7 @ 3 ohms, I was fighting impedance rise and running into amplifier clipping, even using a SounDigital 5K, (rated 5,000 @ 2 ohms) which only gave me 1400-1500 watts RMS after impedance rise. I ended up going with the D4S JP 23v2 and wiring down to .75 ohm. With this configuration, I am enjoying up to 3dB of dynamic headroom and rarely ever clipping. Remember this: you're always better off having too much power than not enough. You can always gain match for the appropriate power level. Also, don't worry too much about impedance rise because it constantly changes, depending on frequency and power level. If you have a properly constructed enclosure, you will get predictable results!
The higher the load of the sub the quicker it will respond to signal.. also the less heat the amp generates. Much of that heat is transmitted to the sub which results in more heating of the sub..
It’s easier and cheaper to get loud per se going lower.. power is cheaper but that power is less efficient and taxes your electrical system a lot more..
There is also a lot more to this like the dampening factor of amps.. full bridges or not.. so many variables..
Ideally in a perfect world you wouldn’t have to spend 10k to get 3k of power at 8ohm and that’s how everyone would be running thier setups..
The people who know strive to use a final of 2 because you can’t decent power from the amp be a little easier on the electrical system, have tighter control of the speakers and the just have a cleaner signal to the sub that is less heat transfer more power transfer ratio..
Liken it to this for just a non specific example to give an idea..
A 3k Brazilian amp for $250 will send 3000 watts to a sub at 1ohm or 1500 watts to a sub at 2ohm..
For starters that’s a draw of 3000amps or 150amp off the battery..
However that amp is 70% efficient at 1ohm and 80% efficient at 2ohm.. the result is 70% of that 3k is not actually single the sun uses to make musical notes.. the other 30% is thermal loss. The hotter things get the less efficient they are.. just for ball park and it’s more in depth then this..
The reality is the gain between in actual signal to the speaker isn’t 1500 watts. It is but not all that is signal much is transmitted as heat.. the actual difference would be more like that 3k as it is turned into mechanical movement of the speaker is more like say 1750 watts.. the rest of that is heat.. when you meter it it will still read 3000 because heat is also power and we are only measuring for power not signal..
That same setup at 2ohm isn’t making 1500 musical watts either..it’s closer to say 1200.
That is not the biggest difference one would think now when it comes to the fact one is drawing 2x as much from the electrical system overall but only generating 25% or more actual signal..
Now with all that extra heat you find things like glue on the sliders coming lose, amps clipping after they play for a while and get hot.. the sub is being driven way harder then it needs to be and it wears down quicker as well..
The thing is at the end of the day if you took two identical mid level systems and put them on the meter.. say that 3k is on a single 12 and it does a 140.5 on music off the dash..
That same sub off that same amp at 2ohm will meter say 138.5.. but it will play that 138.5 all day everyday for 24h a day 365 days a year..
It’s give and take.. the reality is a $500 amp from a name brand company that makes only 750w but that power is super clean.. would hit around a 138 on that same setup..
This is why the ogs say younger what you pay for.. 3k watts from a $200 Brazilian amp in reality isn’t the same as when 750 off say a jl or dd or dc or kicker etc.. it just isn’t..
I could go to Walmart buy a $50 sub.. build my own box for it.. and throw it in about any vehicle out there on a 500w amp run at 2ohm maybe even 4 if need be.. with proper wire, proper alternator power, proper battery setup etc and embarrass a lot of kids running around with 5k teramps on some skar subs in a prefab box on a factory agm battery and factory 120amp alternator.
And I’m not bashing these companies they do what they do but the people that mostly use that stuff don’t really know what they are doing, buying etc..
My daughter runs a single skar evl in a skar evl box on a skar 800.1 amp off factory 120amp alt and a lead acid battery at that lol.. I got her doing 140.2 off the glass.. blows everyone in her school away and I’m not even a professional in this field just been doing it since early 90’s and I know how to do it right even with sub par equipment.
Hell I run a Teramps 3k in my personal truck.. but that’s also off a 320amp alternated dual runs of 0/1 wire and to dc subs.. and it’s also at 2ohm not 1.. I doubled the power needed from a lower quality amp so I don’t have to drive it as hard making it not as bad..
Here is something people always miss.. you got a 3k amp.. or 2k or whatever.. you got a 120-160amp alternator.. batteries don’t supply power they store power.. you run off the alt bit the battery.. batteries don’t like to give up the power quickly.. so how do you get 3k watts power assuming the amp is 100% efficient which is impossible (this means 300amps of power drain) from a 140 alternator (which I think is standard for most mid size cars now or 160 from what is common for most trucks and larger subs now when it can only physically give about 50% of that after it runs the engine and all the electronics? It can’t! And the battery which doesn’t like to give up its power can’t cover the difference either.. it might give you another 30-40 amps at times in short bursts.. so in reality people think they are getting 3k watts but they only have 100amp or so to give.. so it’s really running at 1000 watts not 3000.
And again you can clamp all the wires and speaker leads you want it it wil measure 3k all day. But that’s not 3k signal that’s just 3k power.. you may as well just plug you speakers into the electrical outlet in your house at that point cause that’s pretty much what you’re doing..
Any ideas of why my Kenwood DMX8709s has static through the RCAs to the JL JD400/4 speaker amp? It's less when the gains turned down
Do your rcas run along your power wire to the amp?
@@keenaneisermann883 no, just remote wire
I run a single subwoofer setup. My subwoofer is D1 wired to .5 ohm on my amplifier. Due to box rise I doubt my amplifier never will see that half ohm. Is that true Mark?
It is true. Rarely if at all, will you see your sub's "resistive" rating while playing in a properly designed and constructed enclosure. Just try not to wire your subs "in the dirt". There are some amps that are rated at 1 ohm that will have no issues at .5 and if you wire at .5 ohm, chances are you will be fine. I am wired at .75 and I rise from .9 to 1.1 and my peak is 4 ohms.
How if 1 voice coil connected and other half not. Is it apolicable or pissible?
Dope
Hi Mark, I am new to this Car audio stuff!, Please can you answer a couple of questions for my new build. 1, I have bought 2 dual sub woofers at 4 ohms each, And the amp I got says that it can be bridged at 4 ohms x 2 @230 watts rms each channel. ( How would I wire them up?) Question 2!, Crossovers placement! Is it better to place them nearer to the speakers or can they be put near the amplifiers in the trunk?. Any advice would be grateful. thank's.
In my gladiator I’m running 2 kenwood 10’s flush mounts single voice coil im running them in series pos to pos then pos on amp then neg to neg then to amp i might be saying it backwards lol with Rockford fosgate amp if I done it right im only getting 350 watts at 2 ohms In the wife’s jlu im running 2 fosgate 10 r2 with the 500x1 fosgate amp there running in 2 ohms + - on sub then + - same on the other tied into one wire to amp. I think box design is killing my overall sound on both builds and amp selection
The Cerwin Vega V104DV2. It is a dual coil with only one connection!
How about the wattage of single and dual voice coil. 1k watts in single and 1k watts in dual it will be double the wattage.
One question I had that wasn't covered is ,,, What is the performance difference between 1 2 and 4 ohm subs ..... Does a 2ohm sub respond faster (tighter) than a 4ohm sub for SQ? Edit and also Same question but for duel or single voice coils?
The lower the ohms the more power the subwoofer can handle due to lower ohm subs have more resistance. Basically a 1 ohm sub against of 4 ohm sub = 1 ohm can handle more wattage but the 4 ohm sub would be more efficient power wise keeping your amp running cooler. The lower the ohms are the more strain on your amp but SPL will be much higher on the lower ohm sub. Also the speed of the subwoofer has nothing to do with power (wattage). Speed of a subwoofer has to do with the motor structure, cone material that it is made of, and what type of box structure you use. In my opinion sealed subwoofers are faster and more articulate than ported but there will be people who disagree. Back pressure on a sealed box controls the cone movement better in my opinion. But all subs are not built equally so a poor built sub in a sealed box may sound worse that a good sub ported if the ported box is well structure, the box is tuned well to the sub installed in it, and braced well.
Does it matter if you run the coils of each sub in parallel, then the two subs together in series?
You typically want to avoid series wiring between subwoofers. Better to design for parallel between subs.
Is there any risk to pushing a 2 ohm load to two 4 ohm subs? Aren't those subs designed to run at 4 ohms? I'm confused
But 2 ohm amp is more efficient compared to 1 ohm load ...lets says 83 efficiency vs 72 efficiency at 1 ohm so wiring at 2 ohms is kind of better ?
Any suggestions feed back on this
Remember one of kicker amp mono block provided great efficiency over 90 % at 2 ohms and went down on 1 ohm
If you're concerned with efficiency due to electrical limitations, it is important to know this! Some amplifier's efficiency ratings go in the trash at 1 ohm and below. It's good to check out Williston Audio Labs amp dyno reviews. 😁
Would it have any effect on sound quality
Not if you have a decent amplifier and solid electrical.
The DVC option in my mind would seem to interfere with sound waves in a ported box, all the wires etc, but that’s probably another myth
That said, might be easier to match an amp with the wiring options. No preference really.
Impedance rise on a sub that's wired in parallel vs. series is proportionally lower. I recently discovered that impedance rise is not a static number. This is important if you're trying to squeeze every bit of performance out of a setup.
@@RodofAllTrades Yes, I’m aware. Series up to 4 ohms is a goal, but I was speaking of the physical presence of additional wiring
Probably a minimal interference
The following are amplifier specifications
MODEL
CXA1200.1
Power (watts/ch) 4 Ohm
600x1
Power (watts/ch) 2 Ohm
1200x1
Power (watts/ch) 1 Ohm
1200x1 +/-10%
I don't understand the "+/-10%" of the 1 Ohm. Is the amplifier best running at 1 ohm or 2 ohms?
Its impossible for the 2 Ohm rating to be equal to the 1 ohm rating... The 1 ohm should have more wattage. This looks like a typo from the amp manufacture or store that is selling this amp. If that 1 ohm rating is true though it also means that the subwoofer should not be run at 1ohm because having a negative percentage factor in there means that amp can't handle that 1 ohm power load...
@@petedetraglia4776 those are from the manufacturers website. The manual basically says the same.
"(RMS Power [Watts]
@ 14.4V, 4Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N 600W x 1
@ 14.4V, 2Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N 1200W x 1
@ 14.4V, 1Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N
1200W x 1
NOTE: 2019 CXA mono amplifiers are 1Ω stable - power rating +/- 10%.)"
I currently have it running at 2oh but I would like to add a second subwoofer wired at 1oh
the 4ohm sub i want is out of stock. i can buy the 2 ohm model and wire it to 4 ohm. Is it just as good or should i wait for the 4 ohm model to be in stock?
@@maxx4944 wait
Single but honestly thought it was duel
How about the original JL 12W6. That thing confused backyard installers everywhere! 😅
Haha, definitely not your typical connections.
Can somebody give me a tip on something? Can you wire a single voice coil to a dual voice call without messing anything up
Can dual 2 or dual 4 be wired to 1 ohm for 2 subwoofers?
Dual 4 ohm can become 16, 4 and 1, if you use all coils. 16 is series+series, 4 is parallell+series, 1 is parallell+parallell.
A pair of 2ohms can become 8, 2 or 0.5, for series+series, series+parallell or parallell+parallell.
You could in theory wire one sub in series and the other in parallel, or leave one coil not connected, but why would you.
Im no expert. But I believe single voice coils are actually dual voice coils already wired for you. Running dual voice coil subs wired in parallel is best.
You are correct. Using the term "dual voice coil" is a misnomer. There's always only one coil of wire which has multiple windings.
In order to achieve the amount of resistance necessary to claim a speaker has an impedance of 8 ohms, 4 ohms, etc., they have to use multiple windings in order to use the necessary length of wire it takes to build that much resistance. Obviously the other approach is to use larger diameter windings (2" coil vs 3") or "taller" coils, but then you're getting into extreme applications, like long-throw woofers.
Anyway, I'm going down a rabbit hole. You get the point. 👍
Hello everyone, I have a Midgate subwwofer box ported for 2 12s, I want to buy subs for the box that are skar branded, my box has 1 cubic ft per hole, can anyone recommended me the perfect skar subs please! Thank you
2 12 on 1 ohm
Ive had both and honestly as long as its fairly the same type of quality and the same size subwoofer there's not much difference at all
Here's a slightly off topic but odd use case that some of you might find interesting. NOT car audio, rather commercial PA. The Peavey PVXp "800 watt" powered subwoofer uses a 15" dual voice coil driver inside the cabinet (the only time I've ever seen this done). Why? Because the engineers were feeling lazy, and the bean counters said "cut costs". They took the class D amp board from one of their existing full range cabinets that has 2 identical channels (one for the horn, one for the woofer), and connected one of the channels to one of the voice coils, and the other channel to the other voice coil. They then designed a simple mono input board with a low pass filter that feeds both channels the same signal, thus complying with the "don't send a stereo signal" rule. Side note, you car audio guys would be disgusted by the amps that these big brand name companies stuff into their powered speakers. Most of the better $200-ish amps that Big D puts on his dyno could outrun the crap that the likes of JBL, EV, QSC, RCF & others put inside professional cabinets that cost $1K - $3K USD.
cerwin vega makes dual voice coil with one connector only so be careful
Biggest advantage of having dual voice coils is wiring impedance options
i wish i knew what this guy was talking about, i understood none of it. but i wish i did.
Mark I'm following you from back in 2018 but I can't understand the connection for the full Car Audio Setup I mean from headunit to Amp -> Sub. Can you make a video of full Guide related to this ?
Because thinking to upgrade Factory Car Audio to aftermarket Car Audio Setup.
I want to know how this whole connections are made in Car Audio.
I hope you help me for this.
Hey! Thanks for watching! For videos on this topic check out what I have covered in regards to integration here: www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication/search?query=integration
@@CarAudioFabrication can you give the link of playlist that is on this topic ?
so if you have a dual 4 sub and only 1 4ch amp stable down to 4 ohms...then what?
You ask yourself why you selected this combo.
@@CarAudioFabrication it was a hand me down sub from my dad and my dad’s friend gave me the amp
Ok, well unfortunately it's not going to be optimal.
I run single D2's at 1 ohm and dual D4's at 1 ohm in my vehicles. However, I recently won a SVC 4 ohm sub and I'm going to put it in my wife's car, matching it to an older RF Prime that is around 350 at 4 ohm, so should work well.
1 single sub with dual 4 ohm coils.
Guessing wired in parallel yes? For a 2 ohm load to the amplifier?
4-ohm single voice coil.
These audio guys trying to make things to complicated so average guys "can't" work on things. We can tho!!!👍
😂😂😂 it's don't matter how big the wires is..the wires on woofer's is still tooooo small.... Don't fall 🍂🍁🍂 false Bull 🐂 Doooo information ahhhhhhhhhhh...
The wire on the subwoofer is exposed to all the cooling benefits of the subwoofer. Your speaker wiring that is stuck under the carpet and routed through the vehicle is not. You absolutely are going to want to have large wire on a large power system, otherwise you are going to have a bad time.
DISTANCE = RESISTANCE. The shorter the wire length, the thinner it can be.
Hii brother,
I am very well stucked can u please help me out
I have a 2 channel a/b amp boss pt1000
And 2 svc 4ohm subs
I want to bridge my amp and take the utmost power but its 4 ohm
Is there any way to pair my subs at 2 ohm and also have the briged wattage from the amp ??
Please advise i have installed my system myself and now stucked at this phase 🙏🏻
Ty
Hii brother,
I am very well stucked can u please help me out
I have a 2 channel a/b amp boss pt1000
And 2 svc 4ohm subs
I want to bridge my amp and take the utmost power but its 4 ohm
Is there any way to pair my subs at 2 ohm and also have the briged wattage from the amp ??
Please advise i have installed my system myself and now stucked at this phase 🙏🏻
Ty