Superb video Ryan, absolute masterclass. Couple of questions: are your backings just planted onto the back of your carcasses (ie no rebate). You say any spans over 600 mm for shelves you do from 25mm rather than 18mm, is this to prevent sag? Why do the top and bottom not sag, because they are also fixed to the backing? Could you not fix the (fixed) shelves to the backing also and stop them sagging this way?
Nice one Darren, really appreciate it. Backings are always just screwed on from the back, no rebates, just lots of 30mm screws. Re shelves, I dont usually do fixed shelves unless asked. I generally do adjustable. If I do fixed shelves then I will fix from behind but I find they will still say, especially after painting. Go the extra mile and use 25mm it will look better and wont sag at all 😁. Re tops and bottoms, I still use 18mm as the bottom gets supported buy the bearers, and the tops get supported by the backings and also the trims. When I fit the top trims they screw to the tops and ultimately beef it up and double its strength, stopping it from sagging. 👍👍
My preferred way is very simple. I use 5mm shelf pins, I dont use any system or strips unless the customer asks. I make a template with a column of 5mm holes, then place on top of the components and drill out using a 5mm drill bit. Pretty simple but effective
Thanks for a well-explained plan. It worked well for my analytical brain. Much more confident and already played around the house pretending various buildz
You are welcome. I was able to do a cut list for a kitchen using the same principles for the wardrobe cultist you shared. I will share the project with you when I am done
Brilliant content. Thanks for this. I plan on making fitted alcove shelving for the front room and a wardrobe for the bedroom and this info will be invaluable for when I get started on them.
That's great, I'm planning on doing a few more on certain details for alcoves and wardrobes sometime in the new year. Really glad they will help you out 😁😁
Great vid mate , I often wonder how other people go about designing there built ins , turns out I do mine in a very similar way , keeps things simple I think , sorry to here about the fire hope it wasn’t to bad .
Thanks phalim, your right simple is the best way, no need for fancy CAD drawings for most of this type of work. Yes we've recovered from the fire now and all up and running. The workshop is cleaner and brighter than ever now too, thanks for asking 👍👍👍
I love this cool video. I have 3 mdf sheets, sizes 12mm x 1200mm x 2400mm. I want to put a box together with a top cover using the maximum use of the 3 sheets. What will be the cut list for this project. Assistant will be much appreciated.
Will there be a video of building the designed wardrobe? I think for me personally that would put it in perspective since I’m using these tips to design a board game cupboard in an attic room (with two sloped walls). Keep up the awesome videos!
I'll try at some point, it all depends if we get a job where we have a empty house when fitting as we can't make the video with the customer there. I'm sure ill get around to it pretty soon Thanks for following 😀
Looking back over one or two of you videos and watched this through.... Another great informative video with plenty of information. One question though, when using fixed shelves do you have to bear in mind the hinge positions on the doors or do you position the hinge on the door to suit the shelves.
These videos are so useful for the wardrobes I am planning to build for the loft conversion. Thanks for all the information and detail, really really helpful. Just wondered, do you ever have issues moving the carcass upright and into place once you have assembled on site? I have seen other wardobe videos and they do a top box which slots on at the end to avoid any issues with this. But I can see from your videos you just go fill height. Cheers, Ged.
Thanks my new GOD! I've been searching for info about doing this and voila you appear one day. Like a miracle. If I believed in religion, I'd join your church. Great explanation and great production.
Hi Ryan very helpful thank you. How do you calculate for 1 x wall & 1 by open end so that it appears balanced? Do you bulk up the open side to the width of the wall scribe?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop So when you have 3 doors. The 1st Door sits along the wall end and the Open end is the 3rd Door at the other side of the carcass. The end Panel. The finished panel facing into the room. I am trying to calculate the gaps on the ends between the Wall Scribe trim as 2mm, The gap between the 1st & 2nd Doors as 2mm, The gap between the 2nd & 3rd Door as 2mm and then finally the 4th gap as between the rear of door 3, and the End Panel of the wardrobe that faces into the room. Still awake! Hope that makes sense.
Sorry for the late reply. Hi I think I know now. I use 18mm as the end panel thickness, but the wall trim I try and make as small as poss by having the wardrobe about 20 - 25mm away from the wall or generally 3mm away from the skirting.
Hi Sam, thank you. Can you remember the times which this happens? It must have happened whilst uploading as it wasnt there when I edited the video. Thanks 👍
Arrggghhh so annoying, I'm sure this happened via upload as it wssnt there when I was editing. I hope it hasn't ruined the video and you are still enjoying it?! Cheers Ryan
Got another question, what power tool would you advise for a beginner to get for making such a cabinet? Would you advise a circular saw, a tracks or something I'm forgetting. I did try using a jigsaw which I borrowed but I am not so pleased with the cuts it gives me, to jagged for my taste. Thanks!
Hi, get your self a track saw / plunge saw. They are brilliant! A little bit pricey for a good brand such as maika £350 for the saw and track, but sooooo worth it. One of the best buys I've ever made! I have the makita sp6000k1 I think, its 240v and comes with 2 x 1500mm tracks.
My carpentry skills doubled overnight after buying my festool TS55. They are expensive to buy but I find that they save you a lot of trouble and you need to carry less tools around because they give such precise cut! A must for a carpenter.
Great video as ever Ryan, I have a difficult situation with a sloping ceiling(L-R or reversed) and an angled ceiling back to the loft room.(front to back) how do I cope with this double problem?
The London Craftsman great. Thanks. No issues with warping on larger 2300mm doors with that combination? Do you do pva and pins or mitre bond to fix the styles and rails? I’m a bit worried about trying to mitre bond large pieces because I always mess it up
@@teddybeards_travels it depends how I feel on the day 😁 Mitre bonds works a treat and means there are no holes to fill. I've never really had problems with warping, I just keep them flat all the time and especially when/during painting.
Thank you!! Great idea, I will have to wait for an opportunity when a simple'ish job pops up. One that is not too involved to film in the workshop, and also where the customer on site is not there whilst installation. But I will 100% do this in the near future. We do have a set of alcove units, a media unit and a small wardrobe coming up so maybe then! Cheers Ryan
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Superb video Ryan, absolute masterclass. Couple of questions: are your backings just planted onto the back of your carcasses (ie no rebate). You say any spans over 600 mm for shelves you do from 25mm rather than 18mm, is this to prevent sag? Why do the top and bottom not sag, because they are also fixed to the backing? Could you not fix the (fixed) shelves to the backing also and stop them sagging this way?
Nice one Darren, really appreciate it.
Backings are always just screwed on from the back, no rebates, just lots of 30mm screws.
Re shelves, I dont usually do fixed shelves unless asked. I generally do adjustable.
If I do fixed shelves then I will fix from behind but I find they will still say, especially after painting.
Go the extra mile and use 25mm it will look better and wont sag at all 😁.
Re tops and bottoms, I still use 18mm as the bottom gets supported buy the bearers, and the tops get supported by the backings and also the trims. When I fit the top trims they screw to the tops and ultimately beef it up and double its strength, stopping it from sagging.
👍👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop what do you use for the shelf pins? I keep thinking about the lr32 system and rail but can't really justify for a hobby
My preferred way is very simple.
I use 5mm shelf pins, I dont use any system or strips unless the customer asks.
I make a template with a column of 5mm holes, then place on top of the components and drill out using a 5mm drill bit.
Pretty simple but effective
thank you the help full video tutorial ......👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic and comprehensive Ryan. Really helpful, thanks.
Thank you I'm glad it was helpful 👍
Thanks for a well-explained plan. It worked well for my analytical brain. Much more confident and already played around the house pretending various buildz
Quite helpful
Thank you!!
You are welcome. I was able to do a cut list for a kitchen using the same principles for the wardrobe cultist you shared. I will share the project with you when I am done
Excellent work
Brilliant content. Thanks for this. I plan on making fitted alcove shelving for the front room and a wardrobe for the bedroom and this info will be invaluable for when I get started on them.
That's great, I'm planning on doing a few more on certain details for alcoves and wardrobes sometime in the new year.
Really glad they will help you out 😁😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Yes please do. Something with a cabinet base and shelving on top would be appreciated 😉
Will do in the new year asap 👍👍
Symmetry and mirroring look nice but I would ask client for longest item and start there, then make other side smaller.
Good stuff.
Thank you!
Good job
Thank you! 😊
Great vid mate , I often wonder how other people go about designing there built ins , turns out I do mine in a very similar way , keeps things simple I think , sorry to here about the fire hope it wasn’t to bad .
Thanks phalim, your right simple is the best way, no need for fancy CAD drawings for most of this type of work.
Yes we've recovered from the fire now and all up and running. The workshop is cleaner and brighter than ever now too, thanks for asking 👍👍👍
I love this cool video. I have 3 mdf sheets, sizes 12mm x 1200mm x 2400mm. I want to put a box together with a top cover using the maximum use of the 3 sheets. What will be the cut list for this project. Assistant will be much appreciated.
Hi I think its called max cut on the pc, it's pretty good 👍
Really useful tutorial mate thanks @London Craftsman, I've subscribed and look forward to more when you have time.
Will there be a video of building the designed wardrobe? I think for me personally that would put it in perspective since I’m using these tips to design a board game cupboard in an attic room (with two sloped walls). Keep up the awesome videos!
I'll try at some point, it all depends if we get a job where we have a empty house when fitting as we can't make the video with the customer there.
I'm sure ill get around to it pretty soon
Thanks for following 😀
Looking back over one or two of you videos and watched this through....
Another great informative video with plenty of information.
One question though, when using fixed shelves do you have to bear in mind the hinge positions on the doors or do you position the hinge on the door to suit the shelves.
Nice video, do you a have rule where you put rails on shaker style doors? Thanks
At 16mins in - Can I ask, what is a trim? Is it a piece of wood that acts as a frame at the edges?
Hi its just a piece that closes up the gaps, some people call them trims or fillers or borders 👍
I know very well cutting list making, can you giv job opertunity... I am from india
Your number and which city
@AhmedHussain-fr1lz no 10 downing street
Really helpful thank you
Your very welcome
These videos are so useful for the wardrobes I am planning to build for the loft conversion. Thanks for all the information and detail, really really helpful. Just wondered, do you ever have issues moving the carcass upright and into place once you have assembled on site? I have seen other wardobe videos and they do a top box which slots on at the end to avoid any issues with this. But I can see from your videos you just go fill height. Cheers, Ged.
Thanks my new GOD! I've been searching for info about doing this and voila you appear one day. Like a miracle. If I believed in religion, I'd join your church. Great explanation and great production.
Really helpful thanks!
Hi Ryan very helpful thank you. How do you calculate for 1 x wall & 1 by open end so that it appears balanced? Do you bulk up the open side to the width of the wall scribe?
No probs, hi Victor I'm not really sure what you mean, can you explain a bit more?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop So when you have 3 doors. The 1st Door sits along the wall end and the Open end is the 3rd Door at the other side of the carcass. The end Panel. The finished panel facing into the room. I am trying to calculate the gaps on the ends between the Wall Scribe trim as 2mm, The gap between the 1st & 2nd Doors as 2mm, The gap between the 2nd & 3rd Door as 2mm and then finally the 4th gap as between the rear of door 3, and the End Panel of the wardrobe that faces into the room. Still awake! Hope that makes sense.
Sorry for the late reply.
Hi I think I know now.
I use 18mm as the end panel thickness, but the wall trim I try and make as small as poss by having the wardrobe about 20 - 25mm away from the wall or generally 3mm away from the skirting.
Very informative video thank you, there seem to be 2 periods of black screen maybe just a gap when it's been cut up.
Hi Sam, thank you.
Can you remember the times which this happens?
It must have happened whilst uploading as it wasnt there when I edited the video.
Thanks 👍
The London Craftsman think it’s in the first 10 mins of the video from memory.....
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop One is at 4:51. Seems to go black and skip to 4:57. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Arrggghhh so annoying, I'm sure this happened via upload as it wssnt there when I was editing.
I hope it hasn't ruined the video and you are still enjoying it?!
Cheers Ryan
Gutted! I hope it's still watchable! Cheers Ryan
Got another question, what power tool would you advise for a beginner to get for making such a cabinet? Would you advise a circular saw, a tracks or something I'm forgetting. I did try using a jigsaw which I borrowed but I am not so pleased with the cuts it gives me, to jagged for my taste. Thanks!
Hi, get your self a track saw / plunge saw. They are brilliant!
A little bit pricey for a good brand such as maika £350 for the saw and track, but sooooo worth it.
One of the best buys I've ever made!
I have the makita sp6000k1 I think, its 240v and comes with 2 x 1500mm tracks.
My carpentry skills doubled overnight after buying my festool TS55. They are expensive to buy but I find that they save you a lot of trouble and you need to carry less tools around because they give such precise cut! A must for a carpenter.
Thanks boss
You're welcome 👍
Great video as ever Ryan, I have a difficult situation with a sloping ceiling(L-R or reversed) and an angled ceiling back to the loft room.(front to back) how do I cope with this double problem?
Hi Simon, sorry for the late reply.
To be honest, it's a bit of a hard one to explain via messages.
thanks for the tutorial though.
Great video! Very informative. What size panels do you use for your shaker doors? 18 & 6 or 12 & 6?
Thank you!
I generally go for 12 and 6 now, it makes the doors nice and lightweight.
The London Craftsman great. Thanks. No issues with warping on larger 2300mm doors with that combination?
Do you do pva and pins or mitre bond to fix the styles and rails? I’m a bit worried about trying to mitre bond large pieces because I always mess it up
@@teddybeards_travels it depends how I feel on the day 😁
Mitre bonds works a treat and means there are no holes to fill.
I've never really had problems with warping, I just keep them flat all the time and especially when/during painting.
want another for kitchen cabinets
This is great, dont suppose you will be publishing part #2 - the build 😉
Unfortunately this one was a made up wardrobe for the sake of the video 😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop oh ok, brilliant explanation, would love to see a version of your design and cutting list followed through to execution 👍
Thank you!!
Great idea, I will have to wait for an opportunity when a simple'ish job pops up. One that is not too involved to film in the workshop, and also where the customer on site is not there whilst installation.
But I will 100% do this in the near future.
We do have a set of alcove units, a media unit and a small wardrobe coming up so maybe then!
Cheers Ryan
I'm David from Ghana i what to learn more
I will try to do more soon 👍
I'm a carpenter working on my own i what you to be my master and teach me more things about kitchen cabinets, thanks sir
Can i have your what's up number, i have some work and i what you to teach me how to do the cutting list ok
Hi
Hi!