How to Scribe an infill or filler strip. P1 of 3 [video 352][Gifted/Ad**]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- In this short video series I go into detail about the three scribes I typically use during installs and in this first part, I concentrate on #scribing #infills or #fillerstrips. Enjoy!
**This video may contain items that were supplied/gifted for review. I have not been paid to make this video, and I have no financial interest in these products.
This video is Part 1 of 3.
Part 2 is here - • How to Scribe a face-f...
Parr 3 is here - • How to Scribe to a cei...
+++++++
My ‘social’ links in one place - www.10minutewo...
Support me directly - bit.ly/donate_t...
Support me on Patreon - / 10minuteworkshop
Full list of ‘Stuff I use’ at Full list of ‘Stuff I use’ at www.10minutewo...
Connect with me on twitter @10minuteshop
Connect with me on Instagram - @10minuteworkshop
+++++++
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible e.g. some products are not available in the US, so something similar has been linked to instead.
Amazon UK - www.amazon.co....
++++++++
Used/featured in this video:-
SBT_Design TheBlockScribe - bit.ly/blockscribe
U-scribe jig - bit.ly/u-scribe
Trend easyscribe - amzn.to/32F9ZiZ (US: amzn.to/2LOASKu)
Swankyscribe mega set - amzn.to/31d6BeV
Swankyscribe TriScribe - amzn.to/2AhI6kI
Helix compasses - amzn.to/2AfknC0 (US: amzn.to/34BYtH7)
++++++++
Stanley block plane - amzn.to/2Ouf6vM (US: amzn.to/2MF2yQi)
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool Trion jigsaw - amzn.to/2O2xPlX (US: amzn.to/2DXJjlX)
Festool EHL 65 planer - amzn.to/34FEDKN
Other handy stuff:-
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Braided hose sleeve - amzn.to/2puFkWd (US:amzn.to/2oqbQsi)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
+++++++++
![How to Scribe a face-frame to a wall P2 of 3 [video 353][Gifted/Ad**]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c2IthMh47nM/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Scribe a face-frame to a wall P2 of 3 [video 353][Gifted/Ad**]](/img/tr.png)
Completely get your last video about balancing time to make videos and earn a living. I don't earn my living this way, but my dad who sadly passed away before he saw me discover the joys of building my own furniture would of i hope been pleased with my hobby that furnishes our home. So I turn to channels like yours for good, honest, practical advice from your personal deep experience, its an inspiration and a library of future hints, techniques and of course essential tools! So please carry on and I don't mind the frequency dropping (well I do miss them, but I understand why) and i love the honesty and including the odd times you make a mistake, it keeps it real and the 99% of the time its right a solid vision of what I can work towards. Thanks Peter
Thanks Andrew!
"try your best, then caulk the rest" is always a good motto for getting a scribe line right
For an extended tip, try back beveling 5 deg or so on the jigsaw. It makes for less wood to remove by sandpaper/plane. It also avoids partly any front-back undulation in the wall.
Thanks. One step at a time, Part 2 already scheduled for Tuesday. 👍👍
Peter Millard that’s what I do. Use a normal handsaw cut next to line back cut. Better finish then jig saw less vibrations. I do it with architraves a lot bit of a work out old Skool
Barrie Heard was the way my journeyman taught me.Even with all the tech, I still find back bevelling with a hand saw always gives a better finish. Your right , a bit of a work out.
I free hand a rough cut on a table saw with a 15° or so bevel. I finish with a belt sander. Usually there are zero or very, very small gaps.
I am a novice, but I just used my scroll saw and it did nicely too.
I installed cab's for many years and got used to pre cutting the scribed piece of wood then finish it off with my belt sander laid on its side to get the scribed piece almost perfect. It takes awhile to get used to it (using the belt sander) but it proved to be the fastest and cleanest way for me. I also clamped the scribe to a bench and used the belt sander on it that way also but mostly lay the beltsander on its side clamped to a table (using a homemade jig to hold the beltsander) and run the scribe piece by hand across the end of the beltsander. Plus I always used just the compass scribe to mark the scribe piece. I once had to scribe an entertainment center between two brick walls and the mortar was recessed different depths and was also different vertically too...I used the edge of the flat part of the belt sander to sand-to the scribed mark...got them both done in about an hour and they fit great...but I wouldn't want to do that again! Was a pain in the arse and very dusty lol....the entertainment center was 84" tall and had to scribe the whole 84" both sides...geese. After I did that all other scribe jobs were a piece of cake. I also worked at a boat building company in Oregon and had to scribe everything so one tends to get good at it when it is done all the time. ANother trick I learned when working for Gates Learjet in Tucson Arizona was taping off the curved wall and then making a plywood bulkhead close to the shape of the curved wall and then using bondo to fill-in the gaps. Bondo does not stick to masking tape but it does to wood so you just take the bulkhead off the wall when the bondo is cured, sand it flush with the face of the plywood then lay that plywood on the cabinet side and mark and sand to the scribed line...sounds like a lot of work but it actually wasn't...the LearJets cabinets had to fit tight so that you could not slip a piece of paper between the cabinet and Jet hull. The cabinets were made from a special light weight aluminum panel similar to the way a hollow core house door is made but only about 1/2" thick overall. Very light and very strong material. Ok I talked too much!
EDIT: Skilled craftsmen are a dying breed these days and so are custom cabinet shops...it really is a shame.
sanding pad on grinder works well also for brick scribes. good for coping skirts and quads
Peter, I take my hat off to you! Never seen it done this way and I will change my style after three decades! Thank you!
Another school day. Love it. Never thought that I would enjoy being back at school at 70
Very helpful video - thank you Peter. After all this time I still struggle with scribing!
Excellent tutorial regarding scribing Pete! One of the best I’ve seen, if not THE best. Your explanations and close up of details is very much appreciated. Cheers!
A washer and a pencil are my most expensive tools for scribe-ing and a jig saw that I use. It does this sort of job flawlessly.
Great video, love the demo of different ways to do something. 40 years ago, when I was a strapping young man, I was very much into high altitude mountain climbing, you had to carry everything you needed to survive so equipment weight was critical. I ran into an "old timer" who taught me, "An ounce of technique is worth a pound of equipment".
There are a lot of tools out there today but not enough emphasis on technique.
Thanks again for the great videos
Thanks! 👍
Great video Peter. Scribing is one of those techniques that elevates DIY jobs to the professional level. Well done for passing on the techniques you use so clearly.
Cheers Tony! 👍👍
This channel is a gift. Perfectly explained, thank you.
Thanks a bunch! This is the first video that made sense out of a technique I was struggling to get my head around. Cheers!
Thanks Peter!! I am an advanced DIYer and in search of a good video on scribing a fill-in...your kills it! The others only marginally helpful. I just subscribed thank again!!!! Rock on Brit man.
Paul in Ohio, USA.
Thanks Paul, Ang greetings from London! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Just finished cutting and staining/polyurethane the fill-in and trim pieces... turned out awesome. Hugs the wall like a champ. The cabinet company wanted $80 for their stain-mstched pieces (not sure how many pound pounds that would be, ha). I made me own for about $10 including the stain and your scribing technique worked wonderfully. Thanks mate!
The moment when the subject you're just about to search for comes up as the next video to watch in your subs list...
Great video, Peter
Boom! 💥 😂 #timing 👍👍
Peter, when you did the scribe tools video a few weeks back, I was really struggling to see what you were trying to achieve, this has really cleared the clouds for me!! "when you know, you know". most things are straight forward when taught by a pro!! thanks.
Thanks Mark! Really good to hear that 👍👍
Excellent video!
@6:10 For cutting to the scribed line, I suggest using a spokeshave (after rough cutting the bulk of the material)
I've been searching for a while now, trying to find a video that would explain how to do this simply and easily. Your video was incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Peter, I first want to thank you for your spot on teaching style, brilliant.
I just finished making a walk in "safe room/closet" in a large walk in closet. The mechanism works very well, but it is now time to scribe between the pivoting door and the side walls. I have never attempted this before and I have been searching for a good TH-cam video on how to do it. There a a lot out there, but none of them clearly explained as yours.
Thank you so much for your excellent videos.
Thanks Robert! 👍👍
That's some great camera work! The angles were perfect.
Hi Peter. I would reach for the caulk gun for the first - lets say - 35 mm😁
That made me laugh 😂
I was waiting for moulding scribe @ your site. Anyways nice video.
I belive circular washers are great scribe tool.
I really do enjoy your videos and learning the English words used in carpentry. Enjoy your weekend!
Thanks! You too! 👍
Another very informative video Peter. I had to laugh as I'm sitting right in front of my large TV so I could see close ups easily. My two chihuahuas think I'm going barking mad ! Perhaps they're right but anyway I'm going to give it a go for sure. Thanks again. Regards Colin
Thanks Colin! 😂👍
Thanks Peter. Just finished a holiday in the UK, and treated myself to a couple of the Block scribes after seeing them in your video of a few weeks
Nice! 👍👍
Upside jigsaw, looks familiar 😉
Yeah, I think it's how most guys in the trades do it - certainly the guys I know, anyway. First came across it on the old FOG forums around 2006 or so - a barrel grip jiggy makes life a lot easier! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah i was taught it many yrs ago, a thick blade helps to stop the blade wandering making it easier to control the cut 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah you get used to your own machine but some are easier than others, cordless helps a lot esp on site, I've been a joiner 35yrs, i did my apprenticeship in a joiners shop but 75% of my time was spent as a site 'fitter' n until i started making videos i never realised how much scribing i do, it seems to be in every other vid so sometimes i glaze over it when filming 😂
Very well explained and so detailed. Exactly the technique I wanted to learn and now I understand the steps because of how simple you made it look
Thank you! 👍
...oh the horrors of built -in furniture :) I've never done anything like this, but as soon as I saw what you were wanting to achieve, a pair of compasses were my first thought as a suitable 'to-hand' tool for a job like this. Nice clear explanation as usual, Peter. Looking forward to parts 2 & 3.
Thanks! 👍
Every time I’m looking to do something in woodworking I come back to your TH-cam channel Peter, I bought the Trend easyscribe after watching this video. Tried to find a video how to use it on TH-cam, no luck. Maybe you could cover using the Trend easy scribe in one of your 10 min videos. Thanks Peter.
great video Peter, thanks for adding our handy scribe #3rdhand to your scribe tools and to your videos, great explanation of scribing using the offset method something I like to cover in our instagram stories too, I scribe a hell of a lot of fillers and leaving some of the pencil line in, chamfering the back edge and touching up with a sander or plane is definitely a great tip as mentioned by a couple of others in the comments but all round excellent explanations of scribing, ill have to pull my finger out with our you tube videos
Cheers guys, always happy to showcase a solid product that’s come up from the grassroots. 👍👍 Totally agree about back bevels - remember this is Part 1 of 3, we get into all that good stuff later on in the series... 😆👍
In the past I have used an up-cut blade in my jigsaw this allows the workpiece to be supported on a sawhorse or work table. I also cover the scribing piece with tape to prevent any marking from the saw. yes it takes a bit longer and you need the blade and tape but it has always worked well for me. Thanks for showing us your methods. Ps liked the u scribe
Fantastic video Mr. Millard. Loving all your videos. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thank you, and hi from London! 👍👍
Dad’s actually from Islington, so still flying the 🇬🇧 here...
Thx Peter for this helpful video. Scribing was always a bit of an abstract subject for me.
Me too! 😂👍👍
Thanks!
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for the video. I have found that however careful you are there will always be a small gap. Decorators caulk hides a host of sins for the small gaps.
Peter, thank you for using your spare time to share these helpful tips - much appricated.
I bought downcut blades for my jigsaw and prefer to use the jigsaw on top of the fillet and clamped. The guys on site who do it the way you are showing do it for a living every day and are very skilled - guess I need more practise...
Well, I have a laugh at ‘spare time’ but thanks! 😂 And yes, it takes some prescribe with the upside down jigsaw; downcut blades are great, but always a concern with a ore-finished piece. 👍👍
That had to be one of your best videos and I have a lot to compare it to
Very good and informative
Thank you! 👍
Thanks Peter, another excellent tip and what good timing. Today’s jobs include infills at the sides of kitchen cabinets. 😀 Regards Pete
Thanks Peter! Timing is everything 😆🤷♂️👍👍
This is such a great video Peter, I’ve seen a few explanations of scribing before and for some reason they never made sense, after watching this you make it sound so simple. I don’t know what was confusing me before. Thank you
Thanks! 👍👍
Thumbs up! Very very very interesting. I did not knew that it was this easy. Thank you for explaining and showing.
'And British'.....You sold me sir!
Great thanks for your videos
I use washers made with the crown drill of MDF and the pencil inside the hole or iron washer of different sizes
note; you can use the saw from above with saw that has the cutting tooth down
A greeting from Spain
Yep, they work well - I have a set of little wheels made with hole saws somewhere as well! And thanks, greetings from London! 👍👍
Upside down jigsaw! Genius! wish I knew that 20 yrs back LOL
Thanks some good tips and like the inverted jigsaw as did see down cut blades but they push the jigsaw up. Question how to scribe to a cupboard that is fitted to a recess that sits either side of a fireplace, but the cupboard protrudes out beyond the wall by 20cm or more?
Thank you Peter; enjoyed and learned something(as just about always with your videos.) cheers...rr Normandy, France
Thanks Richard! 👍👍
I have had the same compass in my tool bag for 20 plus years but have been tempted many times to pick up one of those you scribe pencil holders. They look handy and the compass often gives too much detail to the line. Just needs to be close enough for the lipstick (caulking) to cover.
Must get round to putting a fillet between my kitchen cabinet install and the wall. Now I know the best way to scribe it. As I'm at home, I think I will use my Bandsaw though as the Jig saw looks a bit risky. Thanks for the tips
Bandsaw’s the best tool for the job - just not the kind of thing you can readily take onsite! 👍👍
Refreshing to hear the correct term 'pair of compasses' as opposed to compass. Yes I know it's pedantic but it is correct! ;-)
Thanks Peter, great series, offered a lot of helpful info to me.
Thanks! 👍
Fantastic video! I need to do some of this and as a newbie, I have lots of questions. Your demonstration of the techniques and the tools was super helpful. Like others, really looking forward to the next parts.
Thanks David! Rest of the series is out this week. 👍👍
A really good video I always struggle to remember this. Nice clear instructions. I wont mention the cricket
Thanks - for not mentioning the cricket... 😆🤷♂️👍 🏏
When doing these scribes use a downward cutting blade on the jigsaw. They are widely available and will ultimately do a better job. In addition, slightly under cut the scribed board so that only the front edge comes into contact with the wall.
Using a jigsaw upside down keeps a clear view of the line, and keeps the face of the board clean. Downcut blades have their uses, but scribing isn’t one of them. 👍
very informative this will no doubt help me out i have a job to do just like this thank you.
This is EXACTLY the video I was hoping for and some excellent comments too! As always thank you for sharing!
Thanks! 👍
You can get down cutting blades for jigsaws. Ive used them for this exact job last time I fitted a kitchen. You just have to keep tight hold of it.
Thanks Peter. Downcut blades can work well, but using the jigsaw upside down keeps the jiggy base off a pre-finished scribe and keeps the cut line clear. As I say at the end of the vid, use what you’re comfortable using 👍👍
So articulate and concise - thanks so much
Thank you! 👍
UPSIDE DOWN jigsaw ??!! Fantastic pro tip. Cheers my friend.
18 comments and video only liked 4 times, and all good comments, don’t forget to like and share folks. Great stuff and keep going pal
Thanks! Yes, good point! 👍👍
I'm always surprised small bandsaws aren't used more by kitchen fitters. It took me 55 years to buy one and sometimes it means more to me than Her Indoors
Some very similar methods here as I use myself. The only thing I would say is if your filler piece is the full height of say a wardrobe or a larder in a kitchen, using the jig saw upside down would be difficult. I use blades with a downward cut so I'm working from the top to keep the filler piece fully supported all the time. Good job though👍
Yep. Always a concern about marring the surface of it’s pre-finished though 👍👍
Especially with downcut blades - they're constantly trying to push the jigsaw away from the workpiece, so you have to bear down harder, and increasing the chances of marking your front face.
Gold right here, pure gold.
👍
I've not tried the upside down jigsaw yet. I currently use a compass for scribing in radiator covers.
Fantastic help Peter, thank you. I would love to see a video on how you make templates for fitting shelves for example. Cheers
Thanks! Take a look at Templating Alcoves [video #252] might help. 👍👍
Try clamping the jogsaw in the vice for m9re stability.
Another great video Peter - have been eagerly waiting for this. Have managed some reasonably accurate scribes lately (after lots of fine adjusting with sandpaper), but being obsessive 'reasonably' doesn't cut it - I look forward to scribing without the need for caulking one day. Very much looking forward to the rest of the series.
Thanks Adam! I can get pretty close, but it can take me a while - I just don’t do it often enough! Best scribe of this short series comes in P2, out Tuesday. 👍👍
I think is best to use a circular scribe guide, as then there is no need to be concerned about holding the marker at 90 deg. Finish last 1mm with sandpaper, apply caulk to edge before fitting and clean off. If you are fussy, that is!
Excellent video, Peter. As some of the other comments suggest, I have clamped the jigsaw upside down in my workmate on occasion. Maybe use a portable bandsaw if you have one.
Thanks Mark! Must admit I have taken the bandsaw out on occasion. 😆👍
I use Bosch T101ao blades from the top No tear out !!! And just on some bits of 2x2 or larger with the trend scriber nice and quick and accurate
Downcut blades can work well, but using the jigsaw upside down keeps the jiggy base off a pre-finished scribe and keeps the cut line clear. As I say at the end of the vid, use what you’re comfortable using 👍👍
Great video - I'd watched a few before doing these on some cabinets I'd fitted and had completely missed the principle of attaching the piece to the inside edge and scribing the thickness of the carcass. Would have made it so much easier!
Thanks! 👍👍
Upside down jigsaw,,,,I just love it,! 👏🏻👏🏻👍👍🇬🇧
I need a bit of practice, but it’s a good trick to have. 👍
It is NOT a SAFE method, especially when hand holding the material - count your fingers when such a job is complete :-)
@@ZenMinus no time to count fingers they're all on the floor🤔🙄😅
Afternoon Peter a great tutorial as always. I suppose if you are on site with a workmate type device you could hold the jigsaw in that. You could also fix the jigsaw to a mdf board offcut and clamp that to a stable surface
Yes indeed, lots of ways to make that cut 👍👍
Perfect explanation and show. Thank you
Use a collins jig saw foot used in coping base boards.
Hi Peter
If the problem is the wall I think that is the wall to be "fixed".
If a chanell is made on the wall at least the deep of the waviness of the wall plus Xmm, is possible to insert the filler in the wall and fix it to the carcase, maybe the filler has to be placed before the cabinet.
What do you think?
saludos
Gerardo
I think that would be a lot more work than simply scribing an infill! 👍👍
Great video Peter, would back cutting the scribes help you to get them in tighter where the wall gets narrower towards the back wall.
A different approach (see P2, out Tuesday) helps - or a lot more practice with the jigsaw 👍👍
Hi Peter. I have a cabinet in an alcove that I am doing scribes for. One side there isn't enough wall to bear against. Is there another way to do this or is just a case of free handing it? Thanks
Clear, concise and useful. Thanks!
you can get jigsaw blades that cut on the down stroke, then hold the js in the normal way.
Thanks Michael. Downcut blades can work well, but using the jigsaw upside down keeps the jiggy base off a pre-finished scribe and keeps the cut line clear. As I say at the end of the vid, use what you’re comfortable using 👍👍
You use a track saw track as a cross cut sled. which is genius . How did you make the hinge for it? It would have to change for different thickness of wood.
I don’t think I use it in this video, but it’s an off-the-peg Festool MFT or Multi Function Table. I’ve done a few videos on it - #182 and #183 give the main details 👍👍
Hi Peter
Still catching up mate
Love your videos 👍👍👍👍
Hi Peter... Did you cut your panel to 60mm or the 54 mm before transferring your scribe onto it?
I like the idea of hiding fixings behind the hinges
It’s an old trick, but works great 👍👍
I recently saw someone scribing in their home built campervan using a disk cut with a holsaw. "The bigger, the better," he said.
I will forever - and I mean forever - refer to all my cabinet units as the carcass, brilliant
Caulk is a wonderful thing!
Thanks for the video which is most helpful. I did wonder why you didn't use a downward-cutting jigsaw blade?
Thanks! Downcut blades can work well, but using the jigsaw upside down keeps the jiggy base off a pre-finished scribe and keeps the cut line clear. As I say at the end of the vid, use what you’re comfortable using 👍👍
How come the cut isn't made on the bandsaw ?
Because you diner generally have a bandsaw with you on-site, where these cuts are made. 👍
how would you scribe this infill if your wardrobe protrudes out from your Alcove if that makes sense. Eg My Fireplace sticks out approx 18 inches from the main wall creating an Alcove but my Wardrobe front is another 10 inches into the room. There is a gap left between where the Front of the fireplace is and the side of the wardrobe, so how do you scribe the infill please?
Hi, the filler width is 54mm or 60mm? Thanks.
Great demo Peter !
Thanks John 👍
As always great video!
Just use a clean down cut blade on jigsaw?
Downcut blades can work well, but using the jigsaw upside down keeps the jiggy base off a pre-finished scribe and keeps the cut line clear. As I say at the end of the vid, use what you’re comfortable using 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop if you use masking tape on the fillet, you wont mark the material and greatly reduce the chance of cutting your thumb off... 😉
If you have a 3d printer you can download and print scribes or design your own to suit the job.
HI PETER
I love your videos just looking at the scribing one and thought you might want to share with your viewers
that when i fitted kitchens and bedrooms and it came to cutting the scribes i used a downcutter blade in the jigsaw which cuts as it says on the downward stroke which allowed you to use the jigsaw in the normal way and would be a bit safer to handle.
keep them coming.
Thanks Billy. I’ve used downcut blades myself, and I prefer the upside-down jigsaw method. I go into the pros and cons in the accompanying blog post (link in description) but in short; using the jigsaw upside down keeps the shoe (base) of the jigsaw off the finished (eg painted, stained, lacquered) infill, so is far less likely to cause damage. It pulls the workpiece into the base of the saw, instead of pushing it away. It keeps the cut-line clear, and clearly visible. It makes the workpiece easier *and safer* to hold, because you can see exactly where the blade is at all times.
If you use a downcut blade, none of the above are true, and it's much safer to clamp the workpiece down when using one of these blades; given the narrowness of these workpieces, you can see how problematic that could be - you"d certainly be moving those clamps a lot even if you're scribing a relatively small infill.
So, on balance my preference is for a regular blade in the jiggy, but held underneath the infill, as the action of the blade helps keep the workpiece steady, you can see clearly where the blade is, and you can support the work with your fingers well away from the blade, and underneath the work i.e. where the blade isn't. 👍👍
One main question, when you cut your infill piece and you had 54mm min and 60mm max… what size of infill did you cut? I assume that it had to be 54mm in order to keep it flush with the inside of the cabinet?
Yes, that's correct; sorry if that wasn't clear. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Does this mean the infill will always be at least the thickness of your carcass? I am trying to keep the cabinet as close to the wall as possible but not sure how create a very narrow infill.
Was worth waiting for it thank you
Thanks! 👍👍
I've got the u-scribe jig and it's awesome! Also been looking at the block and swanky scribes too. Do they hold the pencil firmly enough? Thanks Peter 👍
Yes, they both hold a pencil very firmly👍👍
Glad you like them Craig 👍🏻 I agree the block scribe works really well I haven't used the swanky scribe but its the same premise just a different design so same outcome👍🏻
Very interesting, particularly as I've got some of this to do. But wouldn't it be easier to use a bandsaw? As usual, many thanks.
Easier to make the cut, yes; easier to take a bandsaw on-site? 🤔 Don’t think so - and yes, that’s speaking as someone who has taken a little bandsaw onsite! 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Ah, that makes sense. So, for me, doing my house renovation, the bandsaw it is, then. 😁
@@10MinuteWorkshop well of course, taking a jigsaw on-site is much easier than a bench top bandsaw. But you DID do a video about exactly that topic not too long ago! 😁
All good stuff Pete,,👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, how about a spokeshave like a Stanley 152 for making those curves on the infills? Love the videos very interesting and very professionally put together. I have a Bosch GKS65 Circular Saw and wondered if its worth getting a track for that? Cheers John
Hi John, and thanks! Yes, a spoke shave would do it - I don’t own one, but if you have one then absolutely. Re the saw, if it fits on a guiderail, then yes, it would make for more accurate / easier straight cuts, though obviously it’s a regular circular saw not a plunge saw, so you’d be restricted to starting & finishing the cut at the edge of the board. 👍👍
great video! Thanks for the tips