A great looking job, excellent attention to detail. I am revamping my workshop to accommodate spraying, you cant do it to this level without being set up properly. Thanks for sharing your spray booth details.
Nice trick with the screws on the draws fronts i over think things like that! I’ve tried double sided tape, miter mate even slipped a through the front where the handle holes are sometimes . I do like that grey finish inside and out .
Great video, thanks Ryan. Have you ever had any issues with rails with a span that wide? I'm making my parents a wardrobe and there'll be a couple of rails with a 1 metre span. I know my Mum will cram it full of clothes! Cheers
Thanks for your quick reply to my other question. Loving your channel best woodworking channel on you tube. I've watched all your videos, wondered if you could do one on drawer construction I think its the only thing you haven't covered. Do you miter corners and use the tape trick and do you groove the bottom of drawers for the base. Keep up the good work thank again much appreciated.
hi there , how did you attach the side facia board along that gap, you said you used packers too , do you have a video showing this since it missed this bit out on the current video
Just stumbled across your page. Wow your craftsmanship is amazing. For the cheeks for the drawers what size is that hole at the bottom for the door hinge?
Hi Ryan loved your video extremely useful tips. Do u make your carcases in ply or mdf? I keep worrying that screwing my hinge receivers into mdf isn't man enough or is it OK???
Hi there nice video!!. Can you tell me how did you fix the left side panel in the gap and the wedges on top of the wardrobe to afix the scribe - how did you attach that to the ceiling /top of wardrobe. thanks in advance
Hi, not unless the space is so tight wanted to gain that 20-25mm. I leave them on as the rear walls are generally out of level and that 20 mm or so is a good void for leveling the wardrobe 👍
Hi Ryan, love your work those wardrobes look amazing, i would love to have a go in my house, i know every bespoke wardrobe you do is different but is there a rule of thumb how much wide your doors should be so that you get the 3mm gap at the sides where the cheeks are, and the 3mm gap in the middle and 3mm gap next to the adjoining carcase so the doors dont bind or knock, could you give me the width dimensions of your doors and the width of each carcass so i can see how you worked it out so the doors dont knock or bind. Also great tip about leaving enough room at ceiling height so when you tip them up you dont hit the ceiling, i wont ask you how you know that.!!!! Plus i like what you done with the cheeks at the side of the drawers so the drawers miss the doors when they pull out, good tip. Sorry for all the questions but i dont want to make the door width too wide so that they are knocking or too small that the gaps are more than 3mm. P.S i cant afford a sprayer like you have, but i was thinking of getting the erbauer airless sprayer from screwfix, around £200 do you think i could get a decent finish or would it be better to roll it with a good quality mini roller. Thanks in advance for your reply, keep the videos coming mate i love the detail and tips you provide, All the best Kevin.
Hi i wouldn't buy the screw fix one. Look on ebay until a used graco comes up at a bargain price. I don't think the screwfix one will spray unthinned paint. Re door gaps, watch my videos on sketchup and also how to design a wardrobe etc. They will have the door gaps in them 👍
Great video! Would you recommend glue in biscuit joints? Not sure if you do use glue or not, sorry if I’ve missed it. Thanks and keep up the amazing work!
Thank you! It depends what your making I guess. For something that needs strength or hasn't got any support then glue ( for example if that piece is going to be made into a carcass so will be supported once screwed together then no need for glue) . That's my opinion anyway 👍👍👍😊
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop well, I wouldn’t argue with you because you’ve got the experience and are basing your opinion on that. Thanks pal and enjoy the rest of your weekend ✌🏻
Great job! I wondered what you thoughts are with spraying units like a wardrobe assembled and in situ? I know not really an option when doing work in clients house but as a DIY job at home. I just do not have the space you have in your workshop for spraying before assembly. Is there a chance paint will run or will absorption from MDF help stop that?
It is possible if you don't have really small cubbies, id say 600 x 600 openings would be smallest to spray. To get over this make the wardrobe with adjustable shelves rather than fixed. If your sprayer is set as low as possible maybe 1200 -1400 psi, you spray fast ( airless sprayers pump out paint so fast so stopping or slowing down will cause puddles or runs ) and build up your layers rather than trying to paint it in 2 coats. If I were to paint a unit in situ, I'd do 3-4 mist coats. Have a heater on to warm up the room, and mdf, and keep it on to dry the paint asap to stop the grain raising. 3-4 mist coats is definitely the way for this though.
How wide are the drawers on this build roughly? The span I am looking at is 1050 wide. Not sure whether to split into 2 drawers. Great videos. Keep up the good work! Cheers
Hi I can't remember but if you have the choice to split in half, do it. Drawers always perform better when they are roughly the same length as the runners you use 👍
Thats good news! I8mm for all carcasses, divisions, side panels and trims, 6mm for backings and drawer bottoms ( always use backings, never make a wardrobe without ). For all shelves spanning under 600mm use 18mm and anything over use 25mm. I use 12mm for doors and drawer fascias if they are being shakered, but 18mm if they are just flat doors.👍👍👍
Why would you put packers behind your end panel so it was splayed to cover the gap up why did you not just move your wardrobes over away from the window wall and put a bigger scribe in the right hand side. Surely the end panel on a splay will be noticeable on the floor junction 🤔
We had already mover the wardrobe as far to the left as possible as we didn't remove the left skirting. It was only a 3mm packer , not noticeable in the slightest 👍
Brilliant job again guys! Love this channel.
That's amazing! Im really glad 👍👍👍
Very professional job guys, nice one! Just about to build one in our guest bedroom and your Channel has been invaluable 👏
Thank you!! 😊
If you have any feedback on new videos or videos you think I'm missing, feel free to say! Always good to get feedback back .
Cheers ryan
awesome tutorial, amazing wardrobes look great, have noted the trampoline city outside..good job lads.
Ooh, I'll sit down tonight and give this a watch! Another great looking job!
Love your channel…the closet came out beautifully! Thanks for sharing your talent.
A great looking job, excellent attention to detail. I am revamping my workshop to accommodate spraying, you cant do it to this level without being set up properly. Thanks for sharing your spray booth details.
Nice trick with the screws on the draws fronts i over think things like that! I’ve tried double sided tape, miter mate even slipped a through the front where the handle holes are sometimes . I do like that grey finish inside and out .
Thanks Stephen, ive tried lots of other ways too on drawer fascias, and this seems to be the best so far 👍👍
Yeah I like that way as well. I was shown that at Sharp’s Bedrooms.
Great video,thanks
Great video, thanks Ryan. Have you ever had any issues with rails with a span that wide? I'm making my parents a wardrobe and there'll be a couple of rails with a 1 metre span. I know my Mum will cram it full of clothes! Cheers
Hello jack, no not yet, we use 25mm dai rails so they are pretty strong.
Cheers
Very good.
Thanks for your quick reply to my other question. Loving your channel best woodworking channel on you tube. I've watched all your videos, wondered if you could do one on drawer construction I think its the only thing you haven't covered. Do you miter corners and use the tape trick and do you groove the bottom of drawers for the base. Keep up the good work thank again much appreciated.
Thank you very much!! I will do, I rebate the bottom of my drawers and glue, pin and screw the bots in. I'll definitely look into this vid 👍👍
hi there , how did you attach the side facia board along that gap, you said you used packers too , do you have a video showing this since it missed this bit out on the current video
Just stumbled across your page. Wow your craftsmanship is amazing. For the cheeks for the drawers what size is that hole at the bottom for the door hinge?
Thank you 😁
I think we go for a 120 high x 70 wide cut 👍
Hi Ryan loved your video extremely useful tips. Do u make your carcases in ply or mdf? I keep worrying that screwing my hinge receivers into mdf isn't man enough or is it OK???
Hi there nice video!!. Can you tell me how did you fix the left side panel in the gap and the wedges on top of the wardrobe to afix the scribe - how did you attach that to the ceiling /top of wardrobe. thanks in advance
Great video and lovely wardrobe. Out of interest do you ever remove the skirting in the alcove and fit right up to the wall?
Hi, not unless the space is so tight wanted to gain that 20-25mm.
I leave them on as the rear walls are generally out of level and that 20 mm or so is a good void for leveling the wardrobe 👍
So you use biscuits and screws for the joinery, do you ever use glue on the carcass or drawers? Or do you think its strong enough without
I definitely use glue on the drawers, there is no need with carcasses though and never had a problem not using glue 😁😁
Good system you have, looks great but please keep the camera movements down a bit you make me dizzy
Thank you.
OK ill keep that in mind 👍👍
Hi Ryan, love your work those wardrobes look amazing, i would love to have a go in my house, i know every bespoke wardrobe you do is different but is there a rule of thumb how much wide your doors should be so that you get the 3mm gap at the sides where the cheeks are, and the 3mm gap in the middle and 3mm gap next to the adjoining carcase so the doors dont bind or knock, could you give me the width dimensions of your doors and the width of each carcass so i can see how you worked it out so the doors dont knock or bind. Also great tip about leaving enough room at ceiling height so when you tip them up you dont hit the ceiling, i wont ask you how you know that.!!!! Plus i like what you done with the cheeks at the side of the drawers so the drawers miss the doors when they pull out, good tip. Sorry for all the questions but i dont want to make the door width too wide so that they are knocking or too small that the gaps are more than 3mm.
P.S i cant afford a sprayer like you have, but i was thinking of getting the erbauer airless sprayer from screwfix, around £200 do you think i could get a decent finish or would it be better to roll it with a good quality mini roller. Thanks in advance for your reply, keep the videos coming mate i love the detail and tips you provide,
All the best Kevin.
Hi i wouldn't buy the screw fix one. Look on ebay until a used graco comes up at a bargain price. I don't think the screwfix one will spray unthinned paint.
Re door gaps, watch my videos on sketchup and also how to design a wardrobe etc. They will have the door gaps in them 👍
Great video! Would you recommend glue in biscuit joints? Not sure if you do use glue or not, sorry if I’ve missed it. Thanks and keep up the amazing work!
Thank you!
It depends what your making I guess. For something that needs strength or hasn't got any support then glue ( for example if that piece is going to be made into a carcass so will be supported once screwed together then no need for glue) . That's my opinion anyway 👍👍👍😊
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop well, I wouldn’t argue with you because you’ve got the experience and are basing your opinion on that. Thanks pal and enjoy the rest of your weekend ✌🏻
Great job! I wondered what you thoughts are with spraying units like a wardrobe assembled and in situ? I know not really an option when doing work in clients house but as a DIY job at home. I just do not have the space you have in your workshop for spraying before assembly. Is there a chance paint will run or will absorption from MDF help stop that?
It is possible if you don't have really small cubbies, id say 600 x 600 openings would be smallest to spray.
To get over this make the wardrobe with adjustable shelves rather than fixed.
If your sprayer is set as low as possible maybe 1200 -1400 psi, you spray fast ( airless sprayers pump out paint so fast so stopping or slowing down will cause puddles or runs ) and build up your layers rather than trying to paint it in 2 coats.
If I were to paint a unit in situ, I'd do 3-4 mist coats.
Have a heater on to warm up the room, and mdf, and keep it on to dry the paint asap to stop the grain raising.
3-4 mist coats is definitely the way for this though.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Cheers!
How wide are the drawers on this build roughly? The span I am looking at is 1050 wide. Not sure whether to split into 2 drawers. Great videos. Keep up the good work! Cheers
Hi I can't remember but if you have the choice to split in half, do it.
Drawers always perform better when they are roughly the same length as the runners you use 👍
When doing the drawer fronts I wonder would double sided tape be any good🤔🤔
Yes I cant see why not, I think I've done this before
I'm nicking all your tips. And I'm minded to buy all the kit. But soddit. How much does this cost? For cash?
Hi Michael, I have a price calculator page on my website for prices 👍👍
Great job! Which type of concealed hinges do you use for these shaker style doors?
Thank you, these hinges were all full overlay where they all sit over the carcass fully.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks man! You’ve inspired me to have a crack at this. What thickness mdf do you use for the carcass?
Thats good news!
I8mm for all carcasses, divisions, side panels and trims, 6mm for backings and drawer bottoms ( always use backings, never make a wardrobe without ).
For all shelves spanning under 600mm use 18mm and anything over use 25mm.
I use 12mm for doors and drawer fascias if they are being shakered, but 18mm if they are just flat doors.👍👍👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks man for taking the time out to answer me, I really appreciate it.
Thats no problem, if you need any more help feel free to ask👍👍👍
What paint is this and colour code please?
Hi this is Little Green paint brand and the colour is Scree.
We matched it in johnstones eggshell.
Ryan, what colour did you paint the wardrobes. Cheers mate, Richard
Hi Richard, does it say in the comments? I thought someone already asked?
If not I'll dig through my paper work and will find out for you 😁😁👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Sorry mate will check it out!
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Found it mate. Cheers Ryan
Why would you put packers behind your end panel so it was splayed to cover the gap up why did you not just move your wardrobes over away from the window wall and put a bigger scribe in the right hand side. Surely the end panel on a splay will be noticeable on the floor junction 🤔
We had already mover the wardrobe as far to the left as possible as we didn't remove the left skirting.
It was only a 3mm packer , not noticeable in the slightest 👍