You should make a Thailand Longtail boat! That motor is perfect for a longtail. You would have full power no complex gears and be able to easily control and steer the boat with a standard motorcycle throttle.
8:59 FYI, you can buy electromagnetic clutches that would fit the size of that motor. They're belt pulley motor clutches meant to disconnect a belt from its intended purpose. If you machine away the pulley part, you can then mount it with a bracket like you'd mount a car clutch and drive it with 12v.
You would be better off using something less complex that doesn’t require extra energy “other than the engine” like a centrifugal go cart clutch. No engagement lever or mechanisms. It’s in freewheel mode at low engine RPM and slowly gets to near full lockup at design RPM. It’s neat to design/ build your own parts but it’s a lot easier if you’re not “reinventing the wheel” on every one of those parts. Some designs like the go cart clutch are so simple and dependable that there’s no need to “rework” them.
my first thought was thinking trimmer/chainsaw, you dont need power and you dont need to manually engage. im not sure they would hold with that engine, so mower/go cart
smaller engine better off with weedeater clutch because fit perfect size and go kart just too big and too heavy because weedeater have alminumin clutch not steel like go karts
Today you learned what many a car guy has learned. We all hope the cool V8 will get the ladies, but it ends up just being a bunch of dudes. Lol. Awesome build bro. Keep up the awesome work.
Girls will only look if it's a Harley and an open-faced helmet. That's how I met my wife. She was a country girl who trained horses. I was a country boy with a Harley Night Train. If they can't see your face they won't even bother.
Please do more videos with this engine. As many have said, nobody uses these engines to do anything cool. I'd love to see it tuned and running well. Thunderhead289 has great carb tuning videos.
@@TinkerLynx Another youtuber (JohnnyQ90) found that modifying the timing system lets them rev freely. Most of them ship pig rich to make them last longer as well.
Try just going straight from the engine to the prop, one link like they do in those Asian V8 river boats they put the engine on a pivot point and just steer the engine instead of having any gears that get in the way So you can utilize all the power.
you are talking about a mud motor long tail or short tail. The prop is at the end of the shaft and the motor and shaft are all one unit on a tiller mount. it would definitely be the way to go on this set up and would cut out a lot of parasitic loss.
I'm actually surprised this engine can run under load for this long without a major failure. Also I think more reduction with big prop is going to be the way to go.
The water pumps on those tiny engines are typically well undersized for the cooling needs of the engine. I think a reasonably powerful little electric pump would be the way to go to make sure the engine isn't getting too hot. Also if you swapped the starter motor for a DC motor you could use it as a little generator and maybe keep the batteries charged.
@@quinnobi42 I dont think that would be good for the engine. The salt in the water could damage the engine. Running the pipe under the paddleboard and then back into the engine would probably work better long term. (Short term you wont notice any issues with the salt water)
@@freddo5677 You raise a good point. I hadn't considered the salt water. In which case a closed loop cooling system with water to water heat exchanger would probably work best.
You are nuts. $3000 bucks to do this? You could water cool the motor directly with the lake water. Keep the crazy videos coming. You guys are very entertaining
Thats what makes it fun. I wonder if they gave him a deal on it. Whod be crazy enough to strap a 3k engine on a paddle boat which is super easy to flip or be washed over.
These engines often run rich from factory, once run in you might be able to lean it out a bit to make it run a little better. Ignition timing might also be insteresting to look into to make it run better A 2 stage clutch might also be interesting, using both your 1st and 2nd design.
Running on 100 octane Ave gas or an ethonal mix would allow to give it more timing and keep things cooler. May need these steps to preserve the motor for longer life.
Shame Gaijin Enteratinment KFT ruined it with a sponsorship. Seriously, never use Gaijin as a sponsor ever again... and maybe also do the same with WarGaming.
Put an exhaust pipe that goes in the water, not only will your engine be quieter (IDK if you have ever heard the sound difference of a boat engine running in/out of the water) but you might even be able to get free power from your exhaust gases.
@@pauls5745 yeah, that's true however, this was never an issue for boat engines, which dump their exhaust in the water I don't think it's gonna be an issue for this one either.
@@polok890 that's not the most noisy: the worst are cavitation bubbles, and based on the lack of propeller destruction, these propellers don't do any.
Very cool project you’ve created. You should try running the coolant intake line(s) into the lake and add an electric pump to circulate the water through the engine and back out into the lake. That should keep it plenty cool at a relatively consistent temperature. Excellent job on the 3D parts design and printing. 👍
@celeron55 spring clutches are fairly common still but the lever/pedal ratio is pretty high with a very small throw on the actual pressure plate. But yea, hydraulic clutches were definitly invented for a very good reason.
Springs are what some scientists may call compliant mechanisms by themselves, so they're pretty much optimal for almost any given task, you can always scale the spring up if necessary, and it will always work, hydraulics, being superior even to that despite having more than one part involved is truly impressive.
@@TBradyMost clutch pedal to movement of the plate ratios are like 50:1 or something like that right?(source-it was revealed to me in a dream) And even then it takes quite some force to release them. Stiff springs for sure.
It is incredible you can generate so many videos and make products at such a rate, I have been following for some years and have never been disappointed in the value of your productions and I watch a LOT of content.
Wow, that's some top-notch green-screening and explosion-overlaying. Also, the "bumpity-bump" clutch worked really well for the first try. Didn't even shatter/explode!
@@Henrix1998 But still possible. There is a lot of engineering that would go into building a V-8 but the tools and machines to do it totally doable in a home shop. A popular youtube channel would have manufacturers sending machine for for free
It’s kind of the opposite. In the old days guys were doing cool shit with really crude machinery but incredibly talented hands. They didn’t have nearly as much competition though so they could take years prototyping things and then just make small batches
The universal joint is not ideal because it is not a constant velocity joint. It "pulses" as it turns if it is not straight. A way around this would be to use two joints out of phase, but they need to be arranged so that both bend at the same angle. For a clutch, I wonder, can the electric clutch from a car's AC pump be operated progressively? Otherwise a simple system would be to use a belt drive as an adapter and just control the belt tension to work as a clutch.
@@robertheinkel6225Pretty sure that's incorrect. The effect is sinusoidal, and pulses at twice the RPM - in-phase is constructive interference, so amplitude will double. Anti-phase is destructive interference so nullifies the effect. As a full cycle happens every 180° then antiphase is 90°.
Try a variable-pitch prop. Then you can engage the clutch and rev to peak THEN start coarsening the pitch. You might be able to produce more power since you are already at RPM before giving it a load. I had a moped once that could get up to 28mph on level ground. However if you went down a hill it would speed up, then hold 34 once it leveled out.
Would love to see more with these small engines. Water, land, air whatever but this is a very cool concept that you dont see often. Thanks for making this! Very well put together video.
This is awesome! Full size boats use a micro switch that cuts the ignition for a fraction of a second to go into gear more easily. And the idle has to be pretty low, maybe you could ad a spring to push it into gear once you move the lever?
Yeah i'm not going to lie, that is definitely an incredible intro Daniel haha. This was a really well shot video - all of it was smooth, including War Thunder. The sheer amount of effort going into this project is insane.
If those are weedwhaker / chainsaw carbs they have mixture adjustment screws. Look for a brass plug with a notch in it. Dremel the notch into a slit and rotate it with a screwdriver.
I wonder if you could increase efficiency if you changed the U-Joints in single arrangements to duos. The engine wobble may possibly be due to the single u-joint arrangements causing nonconstant velocity output as well. If you added a second UJoint it wpuld counter the other and gives you a nice constant velocity output. and erase the slight horizontal movement that comes with a single joint system.
You need to move your weight a bit further back to plane. I don't think you have enough power though. Less wetted area and displacement, less drag. As you are nowhere near full motor output, go lower pitch and diameter on the prop. Lower pitch will give you more push but less diameter will unload the engine more and possibly permit sufficient combination of torque+RPM to get your SUP board to plane. That's your next goal. From there, you can optimise pitch and blades, diameter to get best planing speed. Beware water ingress into cylinders. Trying to compress water doesn't end well. For that reason, don't put hydrofoils on at this stage. Lots of refinements needed yet.
Yes, scientific approach totally missing here, just accounting on the mythical name "V8" to solve everything. You should put your motor on a power bench to find out at which RPM you get the most power,then determine the speed that you can expect with this power, and enter those number into a propeller calculator that will give you the pitch and diameter you need.
It's great that you got the toroidal propeller to work, since it's so much quieter than traditional propellers. Definitely makes a difference in this build... Totally...
you should totally get one of those kayaks we saw in the start of the video, strap this or another engine on there, with clutch and gas pedals, steering wheel and and an accurate speedometer.
This tiny engine hooked to a dynamo could be a nice range extender for your electric boat - when the solar panels dont produce enough, or if you need them away
It's like 2 things I really enjoy very much have meshed together... Rctestflight and IC horsepower. The fact one of these mini motors is actually being used for something is the absolute cherry on top!
@@johnsfarm7760 For all the weight and complexity involved (and the small dividends vs inefficiencies) an ICE generator is more trouble than it’s worth. Increasing solar and/or battery capacity makes way more sense.
This might help in a future build, but if you want a clutch and don't care about slip ("on" and "off") I would suggest looking at how differential lockers are designed. Any true locker (not a limited slip, obviously) should work, but auto lockers in particular do exactly what you were going for, and are of a very similar design. Nice job btw 👍
This is seriously impressive…spoken to you before a degreed Electrical Engineer. This is a very good time to start applying some ratios, physics calculations and clutch rotational dynamics theory to your project. The engine may be able to be tuned with a different air in / air out system for more power and perhaps turn a new cam for the power band you want matched to the propeller you want…..the possibilities are many and all fun!
this is the best video I've seen about a miniature engine, also very interesting with what you did with the clutch, I have a 1926 Bentley and the gears use the triangular couplings so every time you put the clutch in on your engine it reminded me of my car with the same sound haha. brilliant video earned a loyal subscriber !!!
I have had the luck to work on about 8 conley v8's. And as you said, most of these engine are just ran on a stand. I'm very impressed to see under heavy load it held up.
Great video! I think an easy solution for the noise produced by then engine is to route the exhaust underwater. That would eliminate most of the exhaust noise and you could hear more of the engines mechanical noises and maybe preserve your hearing!
You should try putting the engine in front. Run it to a little gear reduction box and then to your prop. More length will give more torque. Box will allow higher prop speed. And you sitting on rear will allow you to plane easier Bet you could even get a perfect t size spring drive shaft to fit that engine too!!! That would help ya incase of any "accidents" and less stress on driveline/engine.
A few Ideas I thought worth sharing. On the outboard unit, have the stearing pivot axis oveverlap with the axis of the vertical drive shaft this way no mater which way you turn, the vertical drive shaft will remain in the same position relative to the paddle board, base, etc. This will eliminate the need for a U-joint of any kind. Instead of running coolant, have the engine take in cool water from the lake and dump it back out; no recirculation. This is the standerd in the boat industry. You may also want to use a small sea strainer if you go this approach. For the noise, you can always extend the exhaust to go into the water. I really hope you figure out the carburetor issue. Anyway, that things super cool! I hope to see it refined and back out in the water
Instead of a clutch, you could try just lifting the whole prop out of the water on startup. That's what they do in East Asia. Or just buy a gokart clutch.
I love the bumpety bump clutch! I love it specifically because the mercruser alpha drive has essentially the exact same thing in the lower unit. The dog gears in a merc alpha drive are a sawtooth shape so they slam together but disengage smoothly.
This is so cool. You should try mounting it on the outboard like the 7 Marine outboards. Also the smaller prop should have a higher pitch to take advantage of of the rpm. Btw if you are interested in other petrochemical vs electric unpractical comparisons you could try making a fixed wing .049 cox powered drone… and compare it to a racing quad motor powered one of the same design. Cox is remaking the famous tiny engine and has a throttle-able RC version.
I think I'd like to see a v8 Unicycle (peak impracticality)😅 Although a "most practical" mini v8 powered something, like a paper shredder would be cool 🤔
In the powerboat game this issue is the first thing you learn about, you have to find an appropriate diameter prop first but the pitch is the big issue. Too steep a pitch and the motor will load up, same thing as pulling from a stop in 2nd gear with a car - the big prop was probably ok (maybe a little smaller would have been ideal) but you want to change the pitch so you reach peak power (would help if you had a dyno curve for the engine so you know exactly what that RPM is) right about at the limit of how fast the engine can turn the prop at WOT. For conventional engines this would be like putting a crazy prop on an engine that makes peak power at 5500rpm but the prop only lets it get to 3500. Could be the difference between ~320hp and 180hp actually being delivered to the water. Again, blade pitch is like differential gearing in a car - I know you get this stuff but it’s definitely “a thing” in the powerboat world just like with cars.
I will point out that your “bumpity-bump” is basically a 3D-printed dig clutch, which works nearly exactly the same. Dog clutches are used a lot in sequential transmissions in race cars in place of synchromesh, as they can shift very quickly. They aren’t smooth though, also like your dog clutch.
There were a few cars with stock dog clutch transaxles as well, for example the early 4 stroke Subarus such as the FF-1 and 1300G. I daily drive a 1979 Subaru 1600 with 1989 EA71S racing engine and stock 1300G dog gear transaxle. I went through four 1600 transaxles in short order before getting the dog gear 1300g transaxle which has been working for years. Subaru made the early transmissions dog gear as they could not design a synchronized transaxle that was small enough and could even handle the stock ~70hp for a long time. My particular one has held up to 120hp for over 100,000 miles at this point, where the longest lasting 1600 transaxle was only about 30,000 miles. And shifts extremely fast compared to the later transmissions. Both are extremely loud transmissions by modern standards so there isn't much of a difference noise wise.
nice one daniel this is awesome i think the carburettors should have a 'high speed' adjustment screw for higher throttle positions try turning it in or out 1/16th of a turn at a time and see if it makes a difference. the fact that it bogs down when you open the throttle more whilst under load suggests to me that it could be going lean.
I thought about this a lot I'm thinking the carb adjustment is fine and the problem might be no exhaust. The same thing happens with 1600 vws and 2 strokes with no exhaust in my past experience
Not enough gas going in at high loads with the throttle wide open. Be careful about running to lean, it will overheat and also burn the valves. Try bigger jets if possible. I imagine it was originally set up to run on a bench with no load. Have fun...and try a weed whacker with a propeller, if no one has done it before.
I wonder how difficult it would be to make these engines electronically fuel-injected? That would be sweet! there are plenty of inexpensive programable ECUs out there like Alpha X and Speeduino.
What an interesting video, I loved it and I am an artistic person, a musician in fact and I love how you explained how everything works! Your commentary was excellent and so was the filming!
Gear reduction, absolutely! These small engines need to turn fast to make power. Then he can run a standard small engine propeller. No need for heat exchanger, the lake has an infinite cooling capacity!
Like some others have mentioned, doing a setup like the Thai longtail boats would probably be the most efficient, although you may need a 3:1 reduction out of the engine to get any kind of appreciable torque. You should maybe set up a small electric pump to pull water directly from the lake for your cooling setup, either with a heat exchanger or good filters on a direct setup to keep trash out of the cooling system. On those Enjomor V8's, you need to set them up a little rich on the idle circuit in order to get them to rev out under load.. also, they should have a bit of pressure on the fuel tank, since the diaphragm pumps in the carbs don't work well at W.O.T. (no vacuum pulse). On gasoline, you may need an external pump to keep them supplied, while being careful not to overpressurize the carbs. Hope this helps..😉
A larger prop will allow more transfer of power, and that engine shouldn’t be bogging out at those low of rpm’s. It’s sounding like it’s still around 3000-4000 RPM and it should be able to hit 5000-5500 rpm before it starts bogging under the load. The only explanation I can think of for this happening is 1. The engines timing is off, or 2. The engine is under to much extra stress from the length of the driveshaft. The longer something is the more technical weight it has, meaning that drive shaft is probably bogging the engine down a decent bit. Make some rod holders that the drive shaft can still move in so less of that overall stress is put on the engine. It’ll help the engine run easier.
I think that "bumpity bump" clutch will actually get better as it wears down. I know that sounds nuts, but it'll wear in a fashion that makes it easier to get into gear. :D That said though - a CVT might be a better option for this build. (No idea if that's true... it's just what my gut is telling me. LOL)
Many times an ICE will bog down with a load at higher throttle settings is because of a lean fuel/air ratio. Next time try slowly closing the chokes, that might help. Other than that I have no idea how to re-jet those little carbs. A lean run would cause high temps also. Also I’d like to suggest a closed loop coolant temp exchange to use the water your floating on to cool the engine. Or at least pump the water tank when it gets too warm, to pump out the warm, pump in some cool.
Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus: wtplay.link/rctestflight
War Thunder is many things at once, but free aint one of them
@maximilianbroucek4748 free to play, pay to win. Then again, as a war thunder adict myself, I can't say much
Route the coolant hoses to the sea water, will hold up much better
try a dual v8 engine powered paddle board or boat maybe
i'm moving back to seattle soon, do you as a mad scientist need a henchman assistant? i would be honored to be your henchman. ;D
It's so cool to see one of these engines ACTUALLY being used. Every video on youtube of these small engines is just reving it on a desk.
It probably needs WAY bigger jets for the carbs since it probably is just fueled for free reving
Watch JonnyQ90 he makes car out of them
@@stevegredell1123ye it needs a lot of improvements to it
No it isn't❤
Dennis Dempsey is another channel that does more then run them on the bench like JohhnyQ90.
You should make a Thailand Longtail boat! That motor is perfect for a longtail. You would have full power no complex gears and be able to easily control and steer the boat with a standard motorcycle throttle.
Awesome idea
yip thai longtail is worth a try ,
You should I dare you
Double dog dare
Also, the boat profile would create less drag = higher speed
8:59 FYI, you can buy electromagnetic clutches that would fit the size of that motor. They're belt pulley motor clutches meant to disconnect a belt from its intended purpose. If you machine away the pulley part, you can then mount it with a bracket like you'd mount a car clutch and drive it with 12v.
You would be better off using something less complex that doesn’t require extra energy “other than the engine” like a centrifugal go cart clutch. No engagement lever or mechanisms. It’s in freewheel mode at low engine RPM and slowly gets to near full lockup at design RPM.
It’s neat to design/ build your own parts but it’s a lot easier if you’re not “reinventing the wheel” on every one of those parts. Some designs like the go cart clutch are so simple and dependable that there’s no need to “rework” them.
my first thought was thinking trimmer/chainsaw, you dont need power and you dont need to manually engage. im not sure they would hold with that engine, so mower/go cart
Just use an a/c clutch from a car.
smaller engine better off with weedeater clutch because fit perfect size and go kart just too big and too heavy because weedeater have alminumin clutch not steel like go karts
"What a beautiful aerospace-grade waste of time" Cracked me up
“I haven’t seen a single lady. There’s five dudes lined up on the dock” 😂
**Cuts to guys cheering you on**. Guys being guys 😎
"I have not seen a single lady but there's five dudes lined up on that dock" Lolz
Sausage fest!
Today you learned what many a car guy has learned. We all hope the cool V8 will get the ladies, but it ends up just being a bunch of dudes. Lol. Awesome build bro. Keep up the awesome work.
It's kinda like owning a motorcycle. It's a dick magnet. Been riding 10 years, not one woman has ever checked out my bike.
@@dhelix85 depends on whether you count looks of annoyance and disdain as "checking out" lol.
@@tissuepaper9962I think that mostly is about the quality of most females out there. Most are self absorbed, and interested only in themselves.
Well, it was a boat so his odds were better than a car or motorcycle. But he would need a much bigger boat. Size matters...
Girls will only look if it's a Harley and an open-faced helmet. That's how I met my wife. She was a country girl who trained horses. I was a country boy with a Harley Night Train. If they can't see your face they won't even bother.
Please do more videos with this engine. As many have said, nobody uses these engines to do anything cool. I'd love to see it tuned and running well. Thunderhead289 has great carb tuning videos.
I'd say the stock carbs need to be tossed and replaced with a good slide carb.
Needs a radiator too! (Or other thermal control)
@@TinkerLynx Another youtuber (JohnnyQ90) found that modifying the timing system lets them rev freely. Most of them ship pig rich to make them last longer as well.
Try just going straight from the engine to the prop, one link like they do in those Asian V8 river boats they put the engine on a pivot point and just steer the engine instead of having any gears that get in the way So you can utilize all the power.
its called a jackshaft
Some outboards do that as well, I remember doing that with my uncle’s boat, you would steer literally with a stick bolted to the motor housing
you are talking about a mud motor long tail or short tail.
The prop is at the end of the shaft and the motor and shaft are all one unit on a tiller mount.
it would definitely be the way to go on this set up and would cut out a lot of parasitic loss.
I'm actually surprised this engine can run under load for this long without a major failure. Also I think more reduction with big prop is going to be the way to go.
I think you need to make like a 1/5 scale cigarette boat with these engines. It would be one of the funniest things on the water
That would be so awesome
"YOURE OUT OF TOUCH
IM OUT OF TIME"
yes but with twins
@@Eargesplitten-Loudenboomer based wildcat round
Yeah, that’d be really cool.
Might actually pick up some speed as well, if he tuned the engine a bit more
The water pumps on those tiny engines are typically well undersized for the cooling needs of the engine. I think a reasonably powerful little electric pump would be the way to go to make sure the engine isn't getting too hot. Also if you swapped the starter motor for a DC motor you could use it as a little generator and maybe keep the batteries charged.
Presumably you could also cool the engine using the lake water instead of the coolant?
@@willtwilson it looked to me like he was already doing that. Since the hot output was just going overboard.
@willtwilson that's what he's doing
@@quinnobi42 I dont think that would be good for the engine. The salt in the water could damage the engine. Running the pipe under the paddleboard and then back into the engine would probably work better long term. (Short term you wont notice any issues with the salt water)
@@freddo5677 You raise a good point. I hadn't considered the salt water. In which case a closed loop cooling system with water to water heat exchanger would probably work best.
When you spend to much time alone on a solar boat....
🤣
130 miles alone on a solar boat
Yep
When you spend the perfect amount of time*
He’s gotta make up for saved emissions somehow!
V8 > electric motor
You are nuts. $3000 bucks to do this? You could water cool the motor directly with the lake water. Keep the crazy videos coming. You guys are very entertaining
Thats what makes it fun. I wonder if they gave him a deal on it. Whod be crazy enough to strap a 3k engine on a paddle boat which is super easy to flip or be washed over.
A liquid-filled torque converter would be a really cool project.
There's a guy who build one
@@braziliansheetbox2497ich kenne den auch aber ich denke ab 7000rpm wird der explodieren au.erdem würd der auch sehr heiß werden
Is there a link available to this video
yaa
The sea is your liquid-filled torque converter.
These engines often run rich from factory, once run in you might be able to lean it out a bit to make it run a little better. Ignition timing might also be insteresting to look into to make it run better
A 2 stage clutch might also be interesting, using both your 1st and 2nd design.
Running on 100 octane Ave gas or an ethonal mix would allow to give it more timing and keep things cooler. May need these steps to preserve the motor for longer life.
Right mouse28. But boats dont need clutch, just bigger starters.
It also helps to lap the valves on these engines
@@pepethefrog7193 That does relieve the need for one, LOL
@@aidanstrunk4141 Do they not seal well enough?
I love how the mini V8 still has that V8 sound. It would be cool if as your next solar boat, you did a combination solar and sailboat.
Right? It sounds exactly how I would expect a cartoon-shrunk V8 to sound
needs 8 to 1 exhaust
@@mannine99 Nah, dual equal length headers IMO.
@@mannine99 and a flat plane crankshaft
Words cannot describe the emotional distress I am feeling hearing you engage that clutch
I thought of my girlfriend driving my Si 😅
A total tonne of fun! Great work! Mostly these mini V8s never really sound like real V8s but this one really does! Awesome!
Best intro ever.
Shame Gaijin Enteratinment KFT ruined it with a sponsorship. Seriously, never use Gaijin as a sponsor ever again... and maybe also do the same with WarGaming.
Tucker your here too you are one of my favorite TH-cam channels
Put an exhaust pipe that goes in the water, not only will your engine be quieter (IDK if you have ever heard the sound difference of a boat engine running in/out of the water) but you might even be able to get free power from your exhaust gases.
that would probably inhibit exhaust flow, since it has to push thru water to escape. much quieter tho!
@@pauls5745
yeah, that's true
however, this was never an issue for boat engines, which dump their exhaust in the water
I don't think it's gonna be an issue for this one either.
The fish have to put up with enough racket and animal abuse already
@@polok890
that's not the most noisy: the worst are cavitation bubbles, and based on the lack of propeller destruction, these propellers don't do any.
@@polok890oh hush
That little V8 is $2,900 that’s crazy. I bet they don’t sell very many of them. It’s a cool engine though. Nice job on the video.👍
Niche market but they sell well enough to keep the company alive
That's the price of a crate ls1.....
amazing
@@1337GameDevReally? I've never seen a crate V8 of any kind that cheap. Maybe a junkyard motor or a bare block.
@@jacobrzeszewski6527 No but you can go to bone yard and get a entire V8 for that. Small bore LS similar.
Very cool project you’ve created. You should try running the coolant intake line(s) into the lake and add an electric pump to circulate the water through the engine and back out into the lake. That should keep it plenty cool at a relatively consistent temperature. Excellent job on the 3D parts design and printing. 👍
A real clutch would have been centrifugal! There's a reason that literally every piece of outdoor power equipment uses one!!
Clutch springs have to be massively powerful. Even with modern clutch materials the coefficient of friction isn't nearly as high as you would imagine.
I guess they use hydraulics in clutches for a reason
@celeron55 spring clutches are fairly common still but the lever/pedal ratio is pretty high with a very small throw on the actual pressure plate. But yea, hydraulic clutches were definitly invented for a very good reason.
Springs are what some scientists may call compliant mechanisms by themselves, so they're pretty much optimal for almost any given task, you can always scale the spring up if necessary, and it will always work, hydraulics, being superior even to that despite having more than one part involved is truly impressive.
@@TBradyMost clutch pedal to movement of the plate ratios are like 50:1 or something like that right?(source-it was revealed to me in a dream) And even then it takes quite some force to release them. Stiff springs for sure.
He should just mount it direct. It's not going to move very much at idle anyway.
that anti freeze bit at 5:05 actually kinda worried me lol
Id be surprised if it was real anti-freeze or coolant if he was just running it for that short and in warm weather where freezing water isnt an issue.
@@isRANDYasian I kinda thought he might have substituted mountain dew, it would taste better than anti-freeze.
@@ianhoyt2638 marginally
It's gotta be mountain dew
Propylene glycol (antifreeze) is also a food additive used in ice cream and sodas, even in e-cigarettes. I'm sure it's perfectly safe:)
It is incredible you can generate so many videos and make products at such a rate, I have been following for some years and have never been disappointed in the value of your productions and I watch a LOT of content.
Being rich is literally easymode.
12:22 bro passed vibe ✔️
It's great to see someone actually use one of those tiny V8 engines to power something, thanks!
Wow, that's some top-notch green-screening and explosion-overlaying.
Also, the "bumpity-bump" clutch worked really well for the first try. Didn't even shatter/explode!
It’s so cool that it’s possible to make such things in a home shop. In the old days it probably took a million dollar lab to do it.
We are in the future we dreamed of! Makers going crazy, left and right 😂 Cyberpunk, here we come!
Well, building that engine itself at home would be a monumental task
Old chaps are doing it just with a file.
@@Henrix1998 But still possible. There is a lot of engineering that would go into building a V-8 but the tools and machines to do it totally doable in a home shop.
A popular youtube channel would have manufacturers sending machine for for free
It’s kind of the opposite. In the old days guys were doing cool shit with really crude machinery but incredibly talented hands. They didn’t have nearly as much competition though so they could take years prototyping things and then just make small batches
The universal joint is not ideal because it is not a constant velocity joint. It "pulses" as it turns if it is not straight. A way around this would be to use two joints out of phase, but they need to be arranged so that both bend at the same angle. For a clutch, I wonder, can the electric clutch from a car's AC pump be operated progressively? Otherwise a simple system would be to use a belt drive as an adapter and just control the belt tension to work as a clutch.
Clutches are for woman. We no need that.
Ah I see, going the SuperfastMatt way!
Now there's a sublety with UJs based on experience!
Out of phase will double the pulses. You want them in phase, so they cancel each other out.
@@robertheinkel6225Pretty sure that's incorrect. The effect is sinusoidal, and pulses at twice the RPM - in-phase is constructive interference, so amplitude will double.
Anti-phase is destructive interference so nullifies the effect.
As a full cycle happens every 180° then antiphase is 90°.
"i have not seen a single lady but theres five dudes lined up on that dock"
Holy crap that went faster than I expected. Cheers Bud
13:45 That felt like the gym meme😂. You go there to get jacked up and get the ladies, but the only thing you get is gym bros admiring your effort.
Try a variable-pitch prop. Then you can engage the clutch and rev to peak THEN start coarsening the pitch. You might be able to produce more power since you are already at RPM before giving it a load. I had a moped once that could get up to 28mph on level ground. However if you went down a hill it would speed up, then hold 34 once it leveled out.
Right it would be like a grass trimmer, You need high or max RPM before load is applied.
Would love to see more with these small engines. Water, land, air whatever but this is a very cool concept that you dont see often. Thanks for making this! Very well put together video.
This is awesome! Full size boats use a micro switch that cuts the ignition for a fraction of a second to go into gear more easily. And the idle has to be pretty low, maybe you could ad a spring to push it into gear once you move the lever?
This blows my mind! Dude I've been a subscriber since 5k and you have BLOWN UP! Great job!
Yeah i'm not going to lie, that is definitely an incredible intro Daniel haha. This was a really well shot video - all of it was smooth, including War Thunder. The sheer amount of effort going into this project is insane.
Thanks Jay!!!
Bogging at WOT makes me think your mixture is leaning out as you give the motor more air. I bet you can tune that out with new jets.
If those are weedwhaker / chainsaw carbs they have mixture adjustment screws. Look for a brass plug with a notch in it. Dremel the notch into a slit and rotate it with a screwdriver.
I wonder if you could increase efficiency if you changed the U-Joints in single arrangements to duos. The engine wobble may possibly be due to the single u-joint arrangements causing nonconstant velocity output as well. If you added a second UJoint it wpuld counter the other and gives you a nice constant velocity output. and erase the slight horizontal movement that comes with a single joint system.
My thinking also!
or replace it with a CV joint, you can find them as ratchet swivels these days.
@@brianwelch1579 a true CV or a cardan?
Never seen a true CV on anything like that before 🤔
600 people enjoying the lake... until that guy with the obnoxiously loud V8 engine came by.
the dudes coming up to see your paddleboard motor were funny af. they're someone's cool uncles lol
Would be cool to put the exhaust pipes slightly under water. This would maybe make good bubbling sound.🥰
probably would have quieted it down as well, but then it wouldn't sound like an actual v8 car engine
On Aussie inboard ski boats with real v8’s they put the pipes under the water and they’re nice and quiet at idle
You need to move your weight a bit further back to plane. I don't think you have enough power though. Less wetted area and displacement, less drag. As you are nowhere near full motor output, go lower pitch and diameter on the prop. Lower pitch will give you more push but less diameter will unload the engine more and possibly permit sufficient combination of torque+RPM to get your SUP board to plane. That's your next goal. From there, you can optimise pitch and blades, diameter to get best planing speed. Beware water ingress into cylinders. Trying to compress water doesn't end well. For that reason, don't put hydrofoils on at this stage. Lots of refinements needed yet.
Yes, scientific approach totally missing here, just accounting on the mythical name "V8" to solve everything. You should put your motor on a power bench to find out at which RPM you get the most power,then determine the speed that you can expect with this power, and enter those number into a propeller calculator that will give you the pitch and diameter you need.
It's great that you got the toroidal propeller to work, since it's so much quieter than traditional propellers. Definitely makes a difference in this build... Totally...
Yep. Double the size of that sucker, and I'll bet he could get this thing to move.
We live in a golden age of technology. This whole project was therapeutic to watch. Killer vid! 🤘🏽🏁
This is such a cool project. I'd love to see more done with miniature engines!
you should totally get one of those kayaks we saw in the start of the video, strap this or another engine on there, with clutch and gas pedals, steering wheel and and an accurate speedometer.
I'm thinking leave the clutch and throttle as hand levers, use the pedals for steering.
yeah that could also be a great idea@@tissuepaper9962
It's about time somebody actually put one of those Motors in something to make it work😜🤪😉
I just learned a new perfect phrase tonight at 08:43. Thank you. "Beautiful aerospace grade waste of time" will be with me for the rest of my days.
This tiny engine hooked to a dynamo could be a nice range extender for your electric boat - when the solar panels dont produce enough, or if you need them away
It's like 2 things I really enjoy very much have meshed together... Rctestflight and IC horsepower. The fact one of these mini motors is actually being used for something is the absolute cherry on top!
Turning it into a generator to use as a range extender would be interesting
I feel like this is it's destiny, although I hope we get to see a Thai longtail paddleboard along the way.
Porsche moment
Only, he’d be better off adding batteries and/or solar.
@NZobservatory yes - thats what I mean. The generator will top up the batteries
@@johnsfarm7760 For all the weight and complexity involved (and the small dividends vs inefficiencies) an ICE generator is more trouble than it’s worth. Increasing solar and/or battery capacity makes way more sense.
This might help in a future build, but if you want a clutch and don't care about slip ("on" and "off") I would suggest looking at how differential lockers are designed. Any true locker (not a limited slip, obviously) should work, but auto lockers in particular do exactly what you were going for, and are of a very similar design.
Nice job btw 👍
This is seriously impressive…spoken to you before a degreed Electrical Engineer. This is a very good time to start applying some ratios, physics calculations and clutch rotational dynamics theory to your project. The engine may be able to be tuned with a different air in / air out system for more power and perhaps turn a new cam for the power band you want matched to the propeller you want…..the possibilities are many and all fun!
this is the best video I've seen about a miniature engine, also very interesting with what you did with the clutch, I have a 1926 Bentley and the gears use the triangular couplings so every time you put the clutch in on your engine it reminded me of my car with the same sound haha. brilliant video earned a loyal subscriber !!!
I have had the luck to work on about 8 conley v8's. And as you said, most of these engine are just ran on a stand. I'm very impressed to see under heavy load it held up.
This is an incredibly well done video. Thanks for keeping everything actually valuable and not just fluff. Great video.
Great video! I think an easy solution for the noise produced by then engine is to route the exhaust underwater. That would eliminate most of the exhaust noise and you could hear more of the engines mechanical noises and maybe preserve your hearing!
Nice idea!
That is AWSOME content !
So entertaining. Sounded so great !!!!
You should try putting the engine in front. Run it to a little gear reduction box and then to your prop. More length will give more torque. Box will allow higher prop speed. And you sitting on rear will allow you to plane easier
Bet you could even get a perfect t size spring drive shaft to fit that engine too!!! That would help ya incase of any "accidents" and less stress on driveline/engine.
A few Ideas I thought worth sharing.
On the outboard unit, have the stearing pivot axis oveverlap with the axis of the vertical drive shaft this way no mater which way you turn, the vertical drive shaft will remain in the same position relative to the paddle board, base, etc. This will eliminate the need for a U-joint of any kind.
Instead of running coolant, have the engine take in cool water from the lake and dump it back out; no recirculation. This is the standerd in the boat industry. You may also want to use a small sea strainer if you go this approach.
For the noise, you can always extend the exhaust to go into the water.
I really hope you figure out the carburetor issue.
Anyway, that things super cool!
I hope to see it refined and back out in the water
ope lol you beat me to the punch just left a comment about the coolant and the exhast.
Instead of a clutch, you could try just lifting the whole prop out of the water on startup. That's what they do in East Asia. Or just buy a gokart clutch.
Would be cool if you designed a cvt for it. Seems like it’d help with getting into the higher rpms
He needs to make the timing adjustable like Johnny Q90. makes this thing a beast
I love the bumpety bump clutch! I love it specifically because the mercruser alpha drive has essentially the exact same thing in the lower unit.
The dog gears in a merc alpha drive are a sawtooth shape so they slam together but disengage smoothly.
You should try using a centrafugal clutch from a mini moto bike they take a beating and can handle fully grown guys on a mini sports bike lol
That engine probably needs to be tuned a little bit. It might be running rich with the smoke coming out of the exhaust.
This is so cool. You should try mounting it on the outboard like the 7 Marine outboards. Also the smaller prop should have a higher pitch to take advantage of of the rpm.
Btw if you are interested in other petrochemical vs electric unpractical comparisons you could try making a fixed wing .049 cox powered drone… and compare it to a racing quad motor powered one of the same design. Cox is remaking the famous tiny engine and has a throttle-able RC version.
I think I'd like to see a v8 Unicycle (peak impracticality)😅 Although a "most practical" mini v8 powered something, like a paper shredder would be cool 🤔
In the powerboat game this issue is the first thing you learn about, you have to find an appropriate diameter prop first but the pitch is the big issue. Too steep a pitch and the motor will load up, same thing as pulling from a stop in 2nd gear with a car - the big prop was probably ok (maybe a little smaller would have been ideal) but you want to change the pitch so you reach peak power (would help if you had a dyno curve for the engine so you know exactly what that RPM is) right about at the limit of how fast the engine can turn the prop at WOT.
For conventional engines this would be like putting a crazy prop on an engine that makes peak power at 5500rpm but the prop only lets it get to 3500. Could be the difference between ~320hp and 180hp actually being delivered to the water.
Again, blade pitch is like differential gearing in a car - I know you get this stuff but it’s definitely “a thing” in the powerboat world just like with cars.
I will point out that your “bumpity-bump” is basically a 3D-printed dig clutch, which works nearly exactly the same. Dog clutches are used a lot in sequential transmissions in race cars in place of synchromesh, as they can shift very quickly. They aren’t smooth though, also like your dog clutch.
There were a few cars with stock dog clutch transaxles as well, for example the early 4 stroke Subarus such as the FF-1 and 1300G. I daily drive a 1979 Subaru 1600 with 1989 EA71S racing engine and stock 1300G dog gear transaxle. I went through four 1600 transaxles in short order before getting the dog gear 1300g transaxle which has been working for years. Subaru made the early transmissions dog gear as they could not design a synchronized transaxle that was small enough and could even handle the stock ~70hp for a long time. My particular one has held up to 120hp for over 100,000 miles at this point, where the longest lasting 1600 transaxle was only about 30,000 miles. And shifts extremely fast compared to the later transmissions. Both are extremely loud transmissions by modern standards so there isn't much of a difference noise wise.
nice one daniel this is awesome
i think the carburettors should have a 'high speed' adjustment screw for higher throttle positions
try turning it in or out 1/16th of a turn at a time and see if it makes a difference. the fact that it bogs down when you open the throttle more whilst under load suggests to me that it could be going lean.
I thought about this a lot I'm thinking the carb adjustment is fine and the problem might be no exhaust. The same thing happens with 1600 vws and 2 strokes with no exhaust in my past experience
Not enough gas going in at high loads with the throttle wide open. Be careful about running to lean, it will overheat and also burn the valves. Try bigger jets if possible. I imagine it was originally set up to run on a bench with no load. Have fun...and try a weed whacker with a propeller, if no one has done it before.
The CNCd plank was pretty cool
a chain drive for transferring power to the prop would be a lot simpler and less power lossy solution
17:58 went from Dreaming about a V8 board to getting to talk to other dads on the pier about putting a new clutch in your V8 board
Soak your clutch plates in oil and increase spring pressure.
I wonder how difficult it would be to make these engines electronically fuel-injected? That would be sweet! there are plenty of inexpensive programable ECUs out there like Alpha X and Speeduino.
Rojo makes a complete kit for 50cc mopeds i have this on a 72cc monkeybike.
Love you content bro, keep it up!
Toothbrush mic is underrated
Love how you guys combine engineering with having fun. Best way to learn.
15:57 Hey! Gotta love those highly technical terms!! ❤❤
Bumpity bump clutch! 😂❤️
Probably one of your best made videos! Lol!!! Keep it up!
I'm impressed how well those 3d printed parts held up
wow, you are really getting better and better at engineering bro keep up the great works
The fact that he paid $3000 for that is insane
What an interesting video, I loved it and I am an artistic person, a musician in fact and I love how you explained how everything works! Your commentary was excellent and so was the filming!
Two ideas:
1) Gear reduction after the clutch, those small engines really like high RPM
2) Heat-exchanger (or radiator) for the engines cooling loop.
Just run open loop with the lake.
@@filonin2I thought he was running open cycle at first. Might be a simple and great idea
Gear reduction, absolutely! These small engines need to turn fast to make power. Then he can run a standard small engine propeller.
No need for heat exchanger, the lake has an infinite cooling capacity!
Oh I already tell this is gonna be a good one
Really cool to see these engines put to some actual use... would love to see more videos on these engines
Like some others have mentioned, doing a setup like the Thai longtail boats would probably be the most efficient, although you may need a 3:1 reduction out of the engine to get any kind of appreciable torque. You should maybe set up a small electric pump to pull water directly from the lake for your cooling setup, either with a heat exchanger or good filters on a direct setup to keep trash out of the cooling system. On those Enjomor V8's, you need to set them up a little rich on the idle circuit in order to get them to rev out under load.. also, they should have a bit of pressure on the fuel tank, since the diaphragm pumps in the carbs don't work well at W.O.T. (no vacuum pulse). On gasoline, you may need an external pump to keep them supplied, while being careful not to overpressurize the carbs. Hope this helps..😉
A larger prop will allow more transfer of power, and that engine shouldn’t be bogging out at those low of rpm’s. It’s sounding like it’s still around 3000-4000 RPM and it should be able to hit 5000-5500 rpm before it starts bogging under the load. The only explanation I can think of for this happening is 1. The engines timing is off, or 2. The engine is under to much extra stress from the length of the driveshaft. The longer something is the more technical weight it has, meaning that drive shaft is probably bogging the engine down a decent bit. Make some rod holders that the drive shaft can still move in so less of that overall stress is put on the engine. It’ll help the engine run easier.
"Electric boat man finally snaps: makes gas guzzling surfboard"
1:05 thats the best thing ive heard all day
"pugs are more related to a football"
im dead 💀
I think that "bumpity bump" clutch will actually get better as it wears down. I know that sounds nuts, but it'll wear in a fashion that makes it easier to get into gear. :D That said though - a CVT might be a better option for this build. (No idea if that's true... it's just what my gut is telling me. LOL)
Many times an ICE will bog down with a load at higher throttle settings is because of a lean fuel/air ratio. Next time try slowly closing the chokes, that might help. Other than that I have no idea how to re-jet those little carbs. A lean run would cause high temps also. Also I’d like to suggest a closed loop coolant temp exchange to use the water your floating on to cool the engine. Or at least pump the water tank when it gets too warm, to pump out the warm, pump in some cool.
1:56 external starter is a nice touch! It's basically a F1 engine now