V brakes would be long pull, for those going the drop bar gravel STI route, they won't work properly without the use of a cable actuator adjustor. Canti's work perfectly well with drop shifters as they're short pull. Good video though, thanks for the upload!
"When parts don't fit"........... 30 years later of builds you end up with a parts inventory that puts most bike shops to shame............ now, if they only fit something I own LOL. Did the drop bar on an '88 GT Karakoram a few years back, loved it and still have it. I have several vintage road and mountain bikes but the Karakoram gets ridden the most.
I got a GT Tequesta and I wish it had more bottom bracket drop. My toes can barely touch the ground. I guess I need a dropper post to use it for commuting.
Hey what kind of bike is the dark blue one you have? I’m really starting to get into the whole vintage mountain bike thing. I was also wondering if there would be a bike that is similar to it here in the United States?
When the frame is completely rigid what make it a mountain bike? Just the space for wider wheels? I have a specialzied crossroads (which I think is a road style hybrid?) and am thinking of turning it into a gravel bike but am not sure what differences I should be aware of
Thanks for the question! Yes, you’re right - the crossroads is more of a road style hybrid or even a cross bike. The main distinctions would be wheel size, rear hub spacing, and the components. The crossroads has a 700c road wheelset with 130 rear spacing vs an mtb with 26 inch wheelset with 135 rear spacing. Hope this helps.
It's been 2 months now, how's the build going? On previous topics, I'll add that with steel frames dropout can be easily bent to accommodate this couple extra mms of modern hubs - I upgraded my 26er from 130mm to 135mm using RJ the Bike Guy video on cold setting as a guide, can recommend. Frames from that era were less specialized in their distinct bike setup use, thing common with modern bikes (road, gravel, touring, mtb, city, and more, all trying to accomodate new bike tech to do their narrow job as good as possible), so if compared bikes are overall all at least ok quality, they will be kinda simmiliar in geometry and possible usage despite various wheel sizes. If it fits tire size you desire to go offroad, they all will be ok - steel will withstand extra stress and being fully rigid probably will end the build as a bike for mostly lighter terrain, so even less abuse. On the other hand, there were also models sold as hybrids, but with tire space for non-existing at a time 53-55mm - now people gladly set them as rigid narrow 29ers, very cool.
Hi, I have a '92 GT Karakoram MTB. I'd like to put a shorter stem on since the stock one is way too long - 150mm+. By putting a shorter stem would this change the Geo of the bike negatively, and be harder to control? I was thinking of putting a 50mm stem. Maybe 80 or 90mm would be better? I notice on many restoration projects on TH-cam many don't replace the stock stem. I would appreciate your input! Thanks.
Hi there, my short answer would be to experiment to see what is the right amount of reach that will work for your fit. It also depends on if you are going to swap bars, or keep the original ones. If you're keeping the flat bars, a longish stem might actually work better - and I've noticed that my short stem on the hardrock does make the steering feel more 'direct' for lack of a better way to describe it!
92 Karakoram is awesome! I have a 91 Gary Fisher procaliber. Coincidentally, our paint scheme is probably similar and rad. But to your question; I've had my bike since it was new and love it. I put some 3"rise mustache bars on mine and it immediately made a world of positive difference in comfort. Handling was bit more muted. Adding bar ends made it even better. But still fun. You lose a bit of the telepathic handling of these amazing racing xc bikes. But for the comfort and love, it's totally worth it. I'd like to add a shorter stem with a touch more rise to mine. Cheers!
Is he really keeping it real? - Not with THOSE socks on. lol I would suggest that those interested in a vintage mtb buy a digital caliper to measure things before buying parts.
Pretty good content mate! Love new "down to earth yet exciting bikes" content. On the point of running VBRAKES on the back, there are cheap solutions for clamp on cable stop adapters to put on the top tube. I'd rather go for a wicked specialized with cable guide and deal with the adapter than a less exciting option just for brake boss options. Did it on a 2000 ritchey swiss cross to run paul mini motos.
Hey thanks for watching! That Swiss Cross sounds pretty awesome - always a big fan of those bikes. Planning on doing a video for my brother's bike with a cable guide adapters for the rear v-brake. Hopefully soon.
Nice tips, thank you! Got that my sakae cx frame is not suitable with cantilever brakes, it has no rear brake cable handler =( will use v-brake instead
Great question, I'm going to do a vid this week on the stem just to highlight it a bit more. I'd describe the steering as direct. At slow speeds its more noticeable, but you do get used to it. From the hoods its less so than from the drops. Hope that helps!
You’re right on both. Wheels were built by my friend - they are rigida rims laced to vintage white industries hubs. The tires are rat trap pass - I’ve had them so long they’re actually the original compass ones.
@@slimboykip thanks for the info! I'm going to be doing a commuter build soon, 1x12 gx eagle I have in the parts bin, some wide carbon bars I have as well, and I'm leaning towards using reneherse tires. Gonna have to find a frame and wheelset now, and I'm gonna use a quil to threaded adapter to use the modern bars and a new stem. Loved the video, keep it up!
The Rene Herse tires are so good I really recommend them, they make the ride very enjoyable. I’m running them with tubes and they are the standard casings which last a while. Sounds like an awesome project!
@@slimboykip Hey, update on my bike, thought you'd be interested. I found an amazing frame on craigslist, a mint condition 1995 Gary Fisher, and wow, the paint is amazing. It is 1 1/8 inch threaded, and I was wondering what stem you are using on your specialized? Btw I ordered the rat trap passes, very excited for those to come. Thanks!
@@philipcarmack9321 Congrats on New Bike Day! The stem I'm using on the specialized is for 1 inch - so wouldn't be compatible. The purple bike in my vid has a 1-1/8 threaded fork and I'm using the stock stem. You'll enjoy those tires - they make a huge difference.
I use copper paste on all my cars trucks and bikes. Grease bearings but use copper paste on your threads unless calls for loctite also around that wedge that pulls the stem tight. Never had one seize up.
The tip about seat post diameter was the most important to me. I had hard time finding a seat post 26.2 for my project.
I feel your pain haha!
One of the hardest sizes to get nowadays. Based on bike forums they have a lot of those sizes from 20 years ago. lol
Excellent. Glad the YT algorithm sent me here!
Thanks for stopping by!
V brakes would be long pull, for those going the drop bar gravel STI route, they won't work properly without the use of a cable actuator adjustor. Canti's work perfectly well with drop shifters as they're short pull.
Good video though, thanks for the upload!
Great point, compatibility and pull ratios could be a whole video in itself. Maybe for the next one! Thanks for watching.
More clearance with cantis,with 3 compound brake pads they work
Mini V's work a treat.
Yep, steering and handlebars are one of the most important things to consider!
agreed!
Vintage MTB Rocks!
"When parts don't fit"........... 30 years later of builds you end up with a parts inventory that puts most bike shops to shame............ now, if they only fit something I own LOL. Did the drop bar on an '88 GT Karakoram a few years back, loved it and still have it. I have several vintage road and mountain bikes but the Karakoram gets ridden the most.
Very cool - these bikes currently look different now too - swapped the drops to the purple one. It’s fun to ride different setups on old bikes.
Nice! Thank you for the video
Lovin' the vintage MTB content! Keep on posting!!
Thanks a lot, glad you liked the vids!! More coming up
I got a GT Tequesta and I wish it had more bottom bracket drop. My toes can barely touch the ground. I guess I need a dropper post to use it for commuting.
any chance you could tell me the tires on the second bike? the blue one with the slick tan walls.
Hey what kind of bike is the dark blue one you have? I’m really starting to get into the whole vintage mountain bike thing. I was also wondering if there would be a bike that is similar to it here in the United States?
When the frame is completely rigid what make it a mountain bike? Just the space for wider wheels? I have a specialzied crossroads (which I think is a road style hybrid?) and am thinking of turning it into a gravel bike but am not sure what differences I should be aware of
Thanks for the question! Yes, you’re right - the crossroads is more of a road style hybrid or even a cross bike. The main distinctions would be wheel size, rear hub spacing, and the components. The crossroads has a 700c road wheelset with 130 rear spacing vs an mtb with 26 inch wheelset with 135 rear spacing. Hope this helps.
It's been 2 months now, how's the build going?
On previous topics, I'll add that with steel frames dropout can be easily bent to accommodate this couple extra mms of modern hubs - I upgraded my 26er from 130mm to 135mm using RJ the Bike Guy video on cold setting as a guide, can recommend.
Frames from that era were less specialized in their distinct bike setup use, thing common with modern bikes (road, gravel, touring, mtb, city, and more, all trying to accomodate new bike tech to do their narrow job as good as possible), so if compared bikes are overall all at least ok quality, they will be kinda simmiliar in geometry and possible usage despite various wheel sizes. If it fits tire size you desire to go offroad, they all will be ok - steel will withstand extra stress and being fully rigid probably will end the build as a bike for mostly lighter terrain, so even less abuse.
On the other hand, there were also models sold as hybrids, but with tire space for non-existing at a time 53-55mm - now people gladly set them as rigid narrow 29ers, very cool.
have you ever done a build on a vintage frame with all brand new components? including bottom bracket, headset etc.
To be honest, I have not. Lately I'm enjoying riding newer bikes more than vintage ones.
My Reebok traverse is perfect for no mods. 20 years old and still running with little maintenance
No need to fix what’s not broken. Also, had no idea reebok made bikes - pretty cool
This video rules
Was that a dynamo setup or was light hooked up to a battery?
i love this bike
Awesome, thanks!
Sorry to ask but what kind of stem is on the rocktop?
crust bikes bj stem
What skewers do you have on your Hardrock?
Pinhead locking skewers
nice video 🤙
Glad you dig it!
Hi, I have a '92 GT Karakoram MTB. I'd like to put a shorter stem on since the stock one is way too long - 150mm+. By putting a shorter stem would this change the Geo of the bike negatively, and be harder to control? I was thinking of putting a 50mm stem. Maybe 80 or 90mm would be better? I notice on many restoration projects on TH-cam many don't replace the stock stem. I would appreciate your input! Thanks.
Hi there, my short answer would be to experiment to see what is the right amount of reach that will work for your fit. It also depends on if you are going to swap bars, or keep the original ones. If you're keeping the flat bars, a longish stem might actually work better - and I've noticed that my short stem on the hardrock does make the steering feel more 'direct' for lack of a better way to describe it!
92 Karakoram is awesome! I have a 91 Gary Fisher procaliber. Coincidentally, our paint scheme is probably similar and rad. But to your question; I've had my bike since it was new and love it. I put some 3"rise mustache bars on mine and it immediately made a world of positive difference in comfort. Handling was bit more muted. Adding bar ends made it even better. But still fun. You lose a bit of the telepathic handling of these amazing racing xc bikes. But for the comfort and love, it's totally worth it. I'd like to add a shorter stem with a touch more rise to mine. Cheers!
How wide are those bars on the bike at 4:25
700mm
What bars are they ? Thanks
What stem is that on the specialized????
Hey! It’s the crust bikes bj stem with 31.8 clamp diameter
@@slimboykip looks good it really caught my eye
@@yardsalecycles Thank you. Def on the spendy side but worth it to make the fit of a frame this big work!
hey what helmet do you have?
I’m using a giro synthe
what stem is that?
This is a crust bikes/Nitto stem with 35mm reach
Is he really keeping it real? - Not with THOSE socks on. lol I would suggest that those interested in a vintage mtb buy a digital caliper to measure things before buying parts.
Klay, is there a way we can contact you? Are you on Instagram?
Feel free to contact me here in the comments, I'll try my best to reply
Pretty good content mate! Love new "down to earth yet exciting bikes" content.
On the point of running VBRAKES on the back, there are cheap solutions for clamp on cable stop adapters to put on the top tube. I'd rather go for a wicked specialized with cable guide and deal with the adapter than a less exciting option just for brake boss options. Did it on a 2000 ritchey swiss cross to run paul mini motos.
Hey thanks for watching! That Swiss Cross sounds pretty awesome - always a big fan of those bikes. Planning on doing a video for my brother's bike with a cable guide adapters for the rear v-brake. Hopefully soon.
Nice tips, thank you! Got that my sakae cx frame is not suitable with cantilever brakes, it has no rear brake cable handler =( will use v-brake instead
Thanks for watching!
Quill stem adapter works every time. Does putting drop bars on it change how it rides and will they make the bike twitchy
Great question, I'm going to do a vid this week on the stem just to highlight it a bit more. I'd describe the steering as direct. At slow speeds its more noticeable, but you do get used to it. From the hoods its less so than from the drops. Hope that helps!
Great bikes and tips
Stoked you like it thanks!
I wouldnt change the brakes to v brakes id keep it original
I tend to agree also
Does anyone even tun Fender's anymore i have an 820 looks like a schwin and a huffy had a baby with a stainless steel fender
Haven't run fenders in a while but was huge when I commuted daily
in the process of doing a couple projects at the moment. great video!
Glad to hear it - now’s a great time for some projects!
Warn people about Suntour. If you want a Stock groupo Suntour can be pricy to find parts
For sure, certain vintage parts have gotten expensive especially if looking for NOS.
WhY wheels were you using on the specialized hardrock? They looked newer than stock. Also, are those Rene herse tires and if so which size?
You’re right on both. Wheels were built by my friend - they are rigida rims laced to vintage white industries hubs. The tires are rat trap pass - I’ve had them so long they’re actually the original compass ones.
@@slimboykip thanks for the info! I'm going to be doing a commuter build soon, 1x12 gx eagle I have in the parts bin, some wide carbon bars I have as well, and I'm leaning towards using reneherse tires. Gonna have to find a frame and wheelset now, and I'm gonna use a quil to threaded adapter to use the modern bars and a new stem. Loved the video, keep it up!
The Rene Herse tires are so good I really recommend them, they make the ride very enjoyable. I’m running them with tubes and they are the standard casings which last a while. Sounds like an awesome project!
@@slimboykip Hey, update on my bike, thought you'd be interested. I found an amazing frame on craigslist, a mint condition 1995 Gary Fisher, and wow, the paint is amazing. It is 1 1/8 inch threaded, and I was wondering what stem you are using on your specialized? Btw I ordered the rat trap passes, very excited for those to come. Thanks!
@@philipcarmack9321 Congrats on New Bike Day! The stem I'm using on the specialized is for 1 inch - so wouldn't be compatible. The purple bike in my vid has a 1-1/8 threaded fork and I'm using the stock stem. You'll enjoy those tires - they make a huge difference.
What kind of quill stem is that on the hard rock if you don't mind me asking? Im building something hopefully similiar
Sweet looking bikes🚴♂️🔥! Where can I get that Blackburn top tube frame bag?
Thank you! I got lucky and mine was a hand me down from a friend. But theyre still available online
26 aint dead. Nice!👍👍👍
I use copper paste on all my cars trucks and bikes. Grease bearings but use copper paste on your threads unless calls for loctite also around that wedge that pulls the stem tight. Never had one seize up.
Awesome, thanks for the tip. Is the advantage that it doesn’t wash out? I’ll look into it.
Hey, whats that stem on the specialized? Really like it, an how wide are the bars?
Hey - stem is from crust bikes and Nitto, it’s a 35mm length with a 31.8 clamp. Pretty sure the bars are 42mm wide
What stem do you have on the Hardrock 3:53 Thanks
It’s the Crust BJ stem 31.8 clamp
@@slimboykip Awesome, thanks 😃