We show you how easy it is to install YSS shock and fork kit to a Yamaha MT07 Click here to see how you can derestrict your MT07 studio.th-cam.com/users/videor7pZ...
FYI people, this is not the correct way to install it. Inside the forks, you need to pull out the damper rod and make the existing holes bigger and drill two more holes. I do not remember the size of the holes. You also need to deburr the holes. YSS are high quality copy of the Race Tech GVE (gold valve emulators), and they have instructions on installing this. Rebound damping characteristics will not change unless you drill the existing holes bigger and add two more holes. You can look up Race Tech GVE install guide.
I have a 2016 sv650 and I also would like to upgrade my suspension as it sucks the same as the MT07, would you recommend this fork kit and shock? Do I have to drill like I have seen in other videos and would the installation be the same as the video? Sorry for the 21 questions but I’d rather do things right. Also, when can I order the parts from, I’m in Spain
Nice vid. By the way is there a need to also consider a different weight of oil if you are targeting a specific wight of rider with the spring upgrade?
Hello, I’m looking into buying a set of this kit. But I just replaced my front fork with Ipone 20W oil. Would this kit works with 20W oil or I have to replace with 15W? Thank you!
Good info and vid. I have the same setup on my MT07 but I would go for the Cartridge Kit over this fork upgrade any day. Same with the rear shock, I would go for a higher end shock over this one. The shock/spring upgrade in this vid are a significant improvement over stock but fall short of giving you more adjustment options and better performance. Cheers :)
@@Near2Future the suspension on the MT07 really lets the bike down. It's up to you, the age of the bike and how much money you can justify spending. I just upgraded to an MT10 because the MT07 just wasn't doing it for me any more.
@@johnsy59 2019, I'm thinking of just putting the cheaper one in for now then maybe upgrade down the road. I'm thinking of putting a turbo in in around a year.
Should I do this Fork Upgrade kit or the cartridge kit? All i do is recreational riding around country roads. And I really need to change this stock suspension. Everytime I break I go into a nose dive.
If you dont know wich one you need the most then u probably dont need it. But defenitely rear shock. Front you can cut down spacer 15mm, switch to thicker oil (15-20W) and add 35ml extra, and drop the forks 8mm up in the tripple clamp. Almost free and improves the dampening, brake dive and turn in.
@@AmritGrewal31 Never had a problem with bottoming out with the added oil. But i am thinking of adding stiffer springs, if i dont buy a new bike altogether
Yeah, I'm hearing the same thing. Dropping them in as is doesn't improve high speed compression damping. Makes sense. Any thoughts, anyone? Freeze the video on 7:21 This diagram seems to show where to drill the damper rod. Also, 120 to 150mm air gap? Which is it?? DynoDave, man you got some esplainin' to do!
@@Dynobike1992 do i have to drill or not? i am about to do this installation and will like to.be clear and.what I need to do. I will open top cap, take out internal contents, pour oil out, put 20w oil in (400cc), put new internals in and close it. Set forks at 8mm. not planning to drill anything. can you confirm?
@@skatebass19581958 Yes you need to drill it out. These are high quality copy of the Race Tech GVE (gold valve emulators). Rebound damping characteristics will not change unless you drill the existing holes bigger and add two more holes. You can look up Race Tech GVE install guide.
@@chumaster90 you are correct sir. If the damper rods do not get drilled, they still are the main dampening source of the suspension. Drilling the holes move the dampening load to the emulators so they can do their work. The emulators wont be doing anything otherwise. There is a racetech video clearly explaining this.
7:48 - does the stock suspension still suck on newer models , that you have to phile off like 10mm from spacer , so you wouldnt feel like being the second kid on the trampoline?
This is not a cartridge style fork, you are talking about a very different system. YSS does now offer a very affordable cartridge kit for this model....less the $1000.00
I have an FZ-07. I need to change the fork oil to 15W to correct the terrible diving. I have seen videos showing the removal of the entire fork assembly, pouring the oil out and replacing it to the appropriate height. To avoid all this, could I not just suck the oil out of the top and pour in replacement. ? Can you advise ?
@@surronzak8154 The video shows the forks stripped out. My question is is it feasible to pump it out, rather than strip ? Replacement is using a level tool.
Just do it the right way and pull the forks off. I did it and it took 45 minutes from start to finish. If you don't have the capacity to pull the forks off then you probably shouldn't be working on it at all.
There must be something going on here, so many Motorcycle mechanics that i know are called Dave.🤔😀 Heck, there are atleast 3 bike mechanics on youtube that are called Dave.
Can you share the correct part number for the rear shock? I want to buy one now, but I keep finding different part numbers. MZ456-310TRL-39-85 ; MZ456-310TRL-39-X ; MZ456-310TRL-39. Are they the same? I found a website that calls it Mono Rear Shock Absorber YSS, with part number MZ456-310TRL-39-X.
The last number 85 or 88 is the spring colour. I remember reading on the Yss website how to read part numbers but can’t find it on the phone. Think the website showed more options on the computer
![ช่วยพาฉันผ่านเวลา - วสันต์17 [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HFnntWoqc54/mqdefault.jpg)
FYI people, this is not the correct way to install it. Inside the forks, you need to pull out the damper rod and make the existing holes bigger and drill two more holes. I do not remember the size of the holes. You also need to deburr the holes. YSS are high quality copy of the Race Tech GVE (gold valve emulators), and they have instructions on installing this. Rebound damping characteristics will not change unless you drill the existing holes bigger and add two more holes. You can look up Race Tech GVE install guide.
Hi, i need to know witch one tool i may use to take of the bolt to change the Oil damper.
I have a 2016 sv650 and I also would like to upgrade my suspension as it sucks the same as the MT07, would you recommend this fork kit and shock? Do I have to drill like I have seen in other videos and would the installation be the same as the video? Sorry for the 21 questions but I’d rather do things right. Also, when can I order the parts from, I’m in Spain
Nice vid. By the way is there a need to also consider a different weight of oil if you are targeting a specific wight of rider with the spring upgrade?
No. That's a matter of fine tuning, in which case I'd be adjusting the air gap.
Hello, without drilling bigger hole in the damper rod, the new valves are useless ?
Will a 2020 mt07 rear shock fit into a 2014 mt07??
Any installation instructions for open cartridge? CBR650r
How do you feel about the performance of this if it were to be used on a stunt bike? I stunt on my MT07 and need new suspension
I'd be going for YSS cartridge kit on the front YSS shock with compression adjustment
Do you need to torque the shock bolts while the rear is still off the ground? Or can you lower the bike and then torque everything up?
You can do that either way
Hello, I’m looking into buying a set of this kit. But I just replaced my front fork with Ipone 20W oil. Would this kit works with 20W oil or I have to replace with 15W? Thank you!
It makes no difference if you weigh over 180 lbs stay with the 20 weight oil
Does putting this on affect the rebound or just compression?
It effects both
Good info and vid. I have the same setup on my MT07 but I would go for the Cartridge Kit over this fork upgrade any day. Same with the rear shock, I would go for a higher end shock over this one. The shock/spring upgrade in this vid are a significant improvement over stock but fall short of giving you more adjustment options and better performance. Cheers :)
Do you have any links to the better kit within the uk? :)
@@Near2Future no sorry, I'm in Thailand.
@@johnsy59 It looks like the kit you're talking about is double the price. Is it really worth it? Around 585 pounds.. 40,155 Thai Baht
@@Near2Future the suspension on the MT07 really lets the bike down. It's up to you, the age of the bike and how much money you can justify spending. I just upgraded to an MT10 because the MT07 just wasn't doing it for me any more.
@@johnsy59 2019, I'm thinking of just putting the cheaper one in for now then maybe upgrade down the road. I'm thinking of putting a turbo in in around a year.
Should I do this Fork Upgrade kit or the cartridge kit? All i do is recreational riding around country roads. And I really need to change this stock suspension. Everytime I break I go into a nose dive.
I would just do the fork kit. It makes a big difference
@@Dynobike1992 no drilling, correct? I saw a comment saying that it was needed.
If I have budget enough to upgrade rear or front, not both, which one should I choose?
If you dont know wich one you need the most then u probably dont need it. But defenitely rear shock. Front you can cut down spacer 15mm, switch to thicker oil (15-20W) and add 35ml extra, and drop the forks 8mm up in the tripple clamp. Almost free and improves the dampening, brake dive and turn in.
@@Motoloen that'd lower the front of your bike by 23 mm, won't the bike start bottoming out on larger speed bumps if you do that?
@@AmritGrewal31 Never had a problem with bottoming out with the added oil. But i am thinking of adding stiffer springs, if i dont buy a new bike altogether
I thought you had to drill the holes larger in the damper rods? How will the emulator valves work without allowing the oil to reach the emulator?
There is no need to drill any holes, thaey are large enough
Yeah, I'm hearing the same thing. Dropping them in as is doesn't improve high speed compression damping. Makes sense. Any thoughts, anyone?
Freeze the video on 7:21 This diagram seems to show where to drill the damper rod. Also, 120 to 150mm air gap? Which is it??
DynoDave, man you got some esplainin' to do!
@@Dynobike1992 do i have to drill or not? i am about to do this installation and will like to.be clear and.what I need to do.
I will open top cap, take out internal contents, pour oil out, put 20w oil in (400cc), put new internals in and close it. Set forks at 8mm.
not planning to drill anything. can you confirm?
@@skatebass19581958 Yes you need to drill it out. These are high quality copy of the Race Tech GVE (gold valve emulators). Rebound damping characteristics will not change unless you drill the existing holes bigger and add two more holes. You can look up Race Tech GVE install guide.
@@chumaster90 you are correct sir. If the damper rods do not get drilled, they still are the main dampening source of the suspension. Drilling the holes move the dampening load to the emulators so they can do their work. The emulators wont be doing anything otherwise. There is a racetech video clearly explaining this.
7:48 - does the stock suspension still suck on newer models , that you have to phile off like 10mm from spacer , so you wouldnt feel like being the second kid on the trampoline?
Nothing like the Ohlin Cartridge kit .. they use a totally different oil height than the stock Yamaha set up ..
This is not a cartridge style fork, you are talking about a very different system. YSS does now offer a very affordable cartridge kit for this model....less the $1000.00
@@Dynobike1992 The Ohlin kit was $800 if I can recall correctly
@@mikeskidmore6754 you comparing apples to oranges
Is the process the same for a KTM RC 390?
What year is it?
@@Dynobike1992 2019.
@@johnparroccini5705 no it's different
I have an FZ-07. I need to change the fork oil to 15W to correct the terrible diving. I have seen videos showing the removal of the entire fork assembly, pouring the oil out and replacing it to the appropriate height. To avoid all this, could I not just suck the oil out of the top and pour in replacement. ?
Can you advise ?
th-cam.com/video/k4BxjmIwVdY/w-d-xo.html
@@surronzak8154 The Dave Moss video shows a fork rebuild, necessitating removal. It does not answer my question.
@@MrRunner The answer is in the video, you need to put the same amount of oil back in, how do you know how much if you do not empty it entirely ?
@@surronzak8154 The video shows the forks stripped out. My question is is it feasible to pump it out, rather than strip ? Replacement is using a level tool.
Just do it the right way and pull the forks off. I did it and it took 45 minutes from start to finish. If you don't have the capacity to pull the forks off then you probably shouldn't be working on it at all.
There must be something going on here, so many Motorcycle mechanics that i know are called Dave.🤔😀
Heck, there are atleast 3 bike mechanics on youtube that are called Dave.
Can you share the correct part number for the rear shock? I want to buy one now, but I keep finding different part numbers. MZ456-310TRL-39-85 ; MZ456-310TRL-39-X ; MZ456-310TRL-39. Are they the same? I found a website that calls it Mono Rear Shock Absorber YSS, with part number MZ456-310TRL-39-X.
The last number 85 or 88 is the spring colour. I remember reading on the Yss website how to read part numbers but can’t find it on the phone. Think the website showed more options on the computer