After ridden my friends gt with yss springs and complained about it on bad roads . I removed the springs which to hard for a confi ride and installed preload adjusters So my opinion keep stock spring and install preload adjusters start at 6mm in ,gives a allround confort . Works fine on my interceptor and took realy bad roads and holes here in Belgica . Start with the preloads and safe money . Grt
Are you sure that you put the yss fork kit inside the forks before adding the fork oil. Better to put first the fork oil and measure the air gap before adding the yss fork kit.
Does this really matter which way , oil as you did on the video, or oil first, great video thorough tutorial thanx, nice handlebars to, can I ask what make and model?
God bless you man this is big help for the interceptor 650 community. I love watching this kind of video format it taking me back the young years of TH-cam. cheers!
@Joe Janeiro Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I said "might as well paint them now". That grey was killing me. Every time I'd look at the bike , my eye was always drawn to the headlight bracket. lol Now your eyes are drawn to the tank and logo/emblem. Glad you like it. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Love watching your video just because they are so professional even though I have no need to modify my suspension. However, this is a great video for people needing to replace fork oil.
@Me And My Royal Enfield Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I get it. If you like the suspension the way it is don't touch it. I actually think the stock suspension is really good. Better than some might say. By the way, I never got back to you on our last conversation and I'm truly sorry. I brought up Boca Chica because I was born in Brownsville, raised in Corpus Christi. I know that area very well. Most of my family lives in Brownsville / Cameron Park / Olmito. A few live right off of Boca Chica Blvd. I might be down there later this year for a little while. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 Wow, TH-cam sure shrinks the world. Had lunch with 4 new friends in Port Isabel, Pelican Station today. I'll be here at Rocket Ranch campground for another month, or until the Starship goes orbital. I'm planning on riding and camping the length of Natchez Trace this year. I'll hit my favorite KOA in Harrison AR too. Just watched Angie On Tour. She showed Buffalo Bill State Park I may go there later. Always enjoy commenting with you plus it helps the old algorithm. I just put up a #Shorts of the water hyacinths on the Rio Grande at sunset. I love it here but 4 months is too long to sit in one place. Any chance your friend is Mary bocachicagal? She knows me as that Royal Enfield guy.
@Nick Collyer Thanks for the comment. That's awesome. I haven't ridden the bike yet. I will tomorrow. I am excited to see how it handles. Thanks for watching.
The YSS Fork Valve needs explaining, mine came set differently for each leg! Without fine tuning this valve the whole upgrade is incomplete, as this sets the fork rebound. FYI I am at 3 turns out from full close, this has eliminated the the fork going into a 2nd bounce that seriously unsettles the bike in corners. Ride safe
once again a great video, the volume of fork oil that you added is for standard fork internals, now you have added the emulator and added the oil, the volume of air inside the fork will be less, air is compressible and forms part of the suspension, i reduced the oil until its just above the emulator with fork extended so the emulator is always in oil, or use fork oil level, ie a syringe and some tube to get oil level correct, also if you buy the emulators from tec you get instructions on drilling the damper rods, i drilled 6 8mm holes in mine, i think they dont saynthis 8n the kit so people arent frightened off, im sure yiu will find improvement but it can be even better, good luck
@rover100bunson Thanks for the comment. Yeah, you can change the air gap / air cushion by adding or removing oil to get all kinds of different results. I don't think I'll do the drilling. I haven't rode it yet but I'll adjust the oil level if if I need to. I have a buddy who put 430ml in his forks with the YSS upgrade kit and got amazing results. Once I ride the bike I'll get an idea of what I need to do, if anything, to get the front suspension tuned in. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 I am in the camp that does not drill anything on this kit. After 20,000 miles/2+ years (28,000 on the bike) I am very satisfied with the upgrade and still believe that if a rider wants different damping they change the weight of the fork oil. Good methodology in your technique and we appreciate your giving the distances/spacing for the headlight brackets, etc. Again, this kit is THE single-most improvement to the Enfield 650s bar none. Anxious to hear your opinion as well. Virginia
@@frederickwoods5943 If you don't drill out the damper rods then the compression damping is still controlled by the tiny holes in them. Drilling them takes the damper rods out of the equation putting the compression damping on the emulators which is what their for.
@Frederick Woods Hey bud, glad to hear you chime in. I'm hoping to get on the bike tomorrow. I'll let you know what I think. I need to get the front wheel off the ground so I can adjust the preload before I ride. At least get it close. I'm excited to see how it handles. I like a stiffer/track setup in my suspension so the 15w should be good. I thought 20w was a bit much. I'm sure you know the owners manual says the fork oil is 2w 25. But, the service manual says 10w. There is a diagram that says 2w 25 but right under that the text says to "use the specified fork oil 10w". Have you seen this?
@@my-enfield612 yes, I saw that and agree that 15w is optimum. Years ago we mixed various weights to get an oddball viscosity such as 17.5, etc using equal parts of 15 and 20. Thanks for the heads up and looking forward to your findings... be safe.
Hi, how are you. My name is Robert and I live in Patagonia Argentina. Your video is excellent. I'm about to install the yss KIT and I see that you put 430 ml in each tube. The manual for my interceptor says that it is 473 ml, so I'm asking you about how you decided to reduce the volume of oil. Thank you very much again.
Thank you for all the great videos! Have really been enjoying your channel. Can you consider doing a video showing how to correctly measure and adjust the front fork pre-load for this upgrade kit? Thank you!
@RegulatorG Thanks for the comment. That's awesome, I like the Continental GT. I might get one some day. Yes, most of the things I do on my Interceptor 650 will transfer over directly to the Continental GT. I'll be removing the engine soon for mods. Thanks for watching
So by simply slipping in an emulator you have improved the fork performance ..... yet you still have the oil flow controlled by the original damper rod holes, which basically means the emulator isnt doing its intended job. It might just about be controlling whatever oil the damper rods allow through thats all and it is not operating as per design. There are plenty of emulator videos out there, but the one by the inventor, Paul at Race Tec is worth a watch and proves my point.
That's not quite correct. At low suspension velocities (when going over smooth or semi-smooth pavement), the emulator will provide much more resistance than the holes in the damping rod so it will work just fine whether the holes are drilled out or not. It's only at the high velocities, when going fast over harsh bumps and when the emulator opens up that the holes can become the limiting factor, making the suspension harsher than ideal. If you experience that harshness then yes, you need to drill. Keep in mind though that if you drill too much, the suspension might start to bottom out on those harsh bumps, which is much more risky. The emulator provides very little damping at very high velocities (when it's fully open), relying on the damping rod holes for damping at those velocities instead.
@RAHUL Thanks for the comment. I've been waiting on one last thing before I get started on the engine mods. The piston ring compressor. It's been backordered forever but it should be here next week. So, I'll hopefully start the engine mods next week. I'm installing new connecting rods too so the entire engine has to be taken apart. Should be interesting. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Great, no nonsense, step by step video, just what I needed! Thanks a million :) Have you found a marked difference after riding it? I also see you didn't drill the emulators, which I would not be too keen on doing, (if it needs the drill hole, why don't they make it that way?) Was there a reason you didn't do so in your case, and would adding a thinner weight oil achieve the same result if you wanted?? Anyway, great video.
@Andrew Rymell Thanks for the comment. I haven't ridden the bike yet. I'm gonna ride it tomorrow. Yes, I didn't drill the damper rods because, like you said, it not made that way and the instructions don't say to. I'll put it this way. I have heard people say the upgrade kit, with no drilling, is "night and day" compared to stock. After they did do the drilling there was a noticeable difference in the upgrade kit "but it wasn't night and day". Once you drill you can't go back. Different weight oils will change everything. Changing the air gap/air cushion will have big effects too. I don't care what they say, I won't be drilling these out. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@janjansen7556 Thanks for the comment. I do everything by the service manual which gives you the milliliters needed for the front forks. You can use the air gap method but there is nothing in the YSS installation manual that mentions the correct gap. Some people say 140mm and others say 150mm. Also, if you go with the air gap method, I'm pretty sure the springs need to be out and the fork should be fully compressed when measuring the gap. Way easier if you know the recommended oil amount. Just use the measuring cup and poor in. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 hmmm...it is not one or the other: of course you start with recommendef amount of fluid. But next you can measure the airgap to ensure the level is exactly the same in both fork leggs. And the (skimpy) YSS instructions do mention it as the first of the final remarks: "measure oil level from surface of oil until the edge of inner tube"
I see you used RS15? I am wondering if another brand would be equivalent? Also, is the orientation of springs when put back something to watch out for? I plan to do this, but I am considering to only swap out the oil only with preload adjusters and see how it turns out.
@Jay Patel Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure about other brands. Haven't looked into it much. As for the springs, the orientation doesn't matter with this kit. The spacing between the spring windings is the same all the way down. If the spring had tighter windings/smaller gaps on one side, the side with the tighter windings would would go in first. (tighter windings down) Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@Igor Leahu I really like the YSS kit. It's a major upgrade from the stock setup. Honestly, the 15w feels a little light with the softer preload settings. If I wold have gone with 10w I don't think I'd like it (too soft for preference). I will probably switch to 20w at next maintenance. Thanks for watching
@kerutc Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you like the videos. The YSS kit is super simple to install. I think most people could work on almost every piece of this bike by themselves if they had the right tools. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@marcjohnson7734 No but there is plenty of evidence on TH-cam, If you don't drill out the damper rods then the compression damping is still controlled by them & not the emulators.
@Steve Palmer Sorry man, but I'm gonna call B.S. on your comment. Not everyone is drilling these kits. Yes, a lot of people are but it's not required. It's almost an upgrade on top of an upgrade. A small improvement compared to the kit without drilling, but not much. Maybe you should try it for yourself before telling others what they should, or shouldn't do. So, it works at low speeds but not high speeds? lol You need to think about what you're saying. You're basically saying that YSS is selling a kit that doesn't work (unless) and that's just not true. The YSS instructions mention nothing about drilling. I'm pretty sure they would mention that if it was a necessity. Never do they say, do or don't drill the damper rods. Some people are saying YSS doesn't mention the drilling so people aren't scared off from buying the kit. That's ridiculous. Seriously. I've got an idea. Why don't we ride this thing at high speeds and make a video. I have some old footage of the front forks, before the upgrade kit, we can compare it to.
@@stevepalmer5670 the instructions, Hitchcock’s motorcycles, and Stewart Fillingham disagree See from 14:00 at th-cam.com/video/VCp2e-lAgcI/w-d-xo.html
Awsome tuto, your channel is the best i have found on youtube!! Great job
After ridden my friends gt with yss springs and complained about it on bad roads .
I removed the springs which to hard for a confi ride and installed preload adjusters
So my opinion keep stock spring and install preload adjusters start at 6mm in ,gives a allround confort .
Works fine on my interceptor and took realy bad roads and holes here in Belgica .
Start with the preloads and safe money .
Grt
Are you sure that you put the yss fork kit inside the forks before adding the fork oil. Better to put first the fork oil and measure the air gap before adding the yss fork kit.
You are correct.
Does this really matter which way , oil as you did on the video, or oil first, great video thorough tutorial thanx, nice handlebars to, can I ask what make and model?
@@paulwatson2961 the air gap matters
God bless you man this is big help for the interceptor 650 community. I love watching this kind of video format it taking me back the young years of TH-cam. cheers!
Thank goodness I found your video. I remove that small sensor and the shim fell out and I didn’t see how it was positioned 😅
As you were taking the fork tube out. I'm thinking to myself I'd paint those brackets black.
And you did.
Thank you from NJ.
@Joe Janeiro Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I said "might as well paint them now". That grey was killing me. Every time I'd look at the bike , my eye was always drawn to the headlight bracket. lol Now your eyes are drawn to the tank and logo/emblem. Glad you like it. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Love watching your video just because they are so professional even though I have no need to modify my suspension. However, this is a great video for people needing to replace fork oil.
@Me And My Royal Enfield Thank you. I appreciate the comment. I get it. If you like the suspension the way it is don't touch it. I actually think the stock suspension is really good. Better than some might say. By the way, I never got back to you on our last conversation and I'm truly sorry. I brought up Boca Chica because I was born in Brownsville, raised in Corpus Christi. I know that area very well. Most of my family lives in Brownsville / Cameron Park / Olmito. A few live right off of Boca Chica Blvd. I might be down there later this year for a little while. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 Wow, TH-cam sure shrinks the world. Had lunch with 4 new friends in Port Isabel, Pelican Station today. I'll be here at Rocket Ranch campground for another month, or until the Starship goes orbital. I'm planning on riding and camping the length of Natchez Trace this year. I'll hit my favorite KOA in Harrison AR too. Just watched Angie On Tour. She showed Buffalo Bill State Park I may go there later. Always enjoy commenting with you plus it helps the old algorithm. I just put up a #Shorts of the water hyacinths on the Rio Grande at sunset. I love it here but 4 months is too long to sit in one place.
Any chance your friend is Mary bocachicagal? She knows me as that Royal Enfield guy.
This upgrade rocks. I have the YSS front and back, gives me confidence.
@Nick Collyer Thanks for the comment. That's awesome. I haven't ridden the bike yet. I will tomorrow. I am excited to see how it handles. Thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 Keen to hear what you think
I'm on a ContiGt but god damn, sir!
This video was absolutely excellent!
Excellent video. I have the YSS kit. Just waiting for more YSS fork oil to arrive as not enough in the kit!
430 es para cuando se vacía porcel allen inferior sin desarmar, cuando se vacía por completo desarmando como en el video son 473
The YSS Fork Valve needs explaining, mine came set differently for each leg! Without fine tuning this valve the whole upgrade is incomplete, as this sets the fork rebound. FYI I am at 3 turns out from full close, this has eliminated the the fork going into a 2nd bounce that seriously unsettles the bike in corners. Ride safe
once again a great video, the volume of fork oil that you added is for standard fork internals, now you have added the emulator and added the oil, the volume of air inside the fork will be less, air is compressible and forms part of the suspension, i reduced the oil until its just above the emulator with fork extended so the emulator is always in oil, or use fork oil level, ie a syringe and some tube to get oil level correct, also if you buy the emulators from tec you get instructions on drilling the damper rods, i drilled 6 8mm holes in mine, i think they dont saynthis 8n the kit so people arent frightened off, im sure yiu will find improvement but it can be even better, good luck
@rover100bunson Thanks for the comment. Yeah, you can change the air gap / air cushion by adding or removing oil to get all kinds of different results. I don't think I'll do the drilling. I haven't rode it yet but I'll adjust the oil level if if I need to. I have a buddy who put 430ml in his forks with the YSS upgrade kit and got amazing results. Once I ride the bike I'll get an idea of what I need to do, if anything, to get the front suspension tuned in. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 I am in the camp that does not drill anything on this kit. After 20,000 miles/2+ years (28,000 on the bike) I am very satisfied with the upgrade and still believe that if a rider wants different damping they change the weight of the fork oil.
Good methodology in your technique and we appreciate your giving the distances/spacing for the headlight brackets, etc. Again, this kit is THE single-most improvement to the Enfield 650s bar none. Anxious to hear your opinion as well. Virginia
@@frederickwoods5943 If you don't drill out the damper rods then the compression damping is still controlled by the tiny holes in them. Drilling them takes the damper rods out of the equation putting the compression damping on the emulators which is what their for.
@Frederick Woods Hey bud, glad to hear you chime in. I'm hoping to get on the bike tomorrow. I'll let you know what I think. I need to get the front wheel off the ground so I can adjust the preload before I ride. At least get it close. I'm excited to see how it handles. I like a stiffer/track setup in my suspension so the 15w should be good. I thought 20w was a bit much. I'm sure you know the owners manual says the fork oil is 2w 25. But, the service manual says 10w. There is a diagram that says 2w 25 but right under that the text says to "use the specified fork oil 10w". Have you seen this?
@@my-enfield612 yes, I saw that and agree that 15w is optimum. Years ago we mixed various weights to get an oddball viscosity such as 17.5, etc using equal parts of 15 and 20.
Thanks for the heads up and looking forward to your findings... be safe.
Hi, how are you. My name is Robert and I live in Patagonia Argentina. Your video is excellent. I'm about to install the yss KIT and I see that you put 430 ml in each tube. The manual for my interceptor says that it is 473 ml, so I'm asking you about how you decided to reduce the volume of oil. Thank you very much again.
Thank you for all the great videos! Have really been enjoying your channel. Can you consider doing a video showing how to correctly measure and adjust the front fork pre-load for this upgrade kit? Thank you!
great looking bike..and thanks for the information as I need to upgrade the forks for the Silk Road..
@maakamakana7007 Thanks for the comment. I appreciate that. The Silk Road. Very cool. Thanks for watching.
Great tutorial! Loved the step by step instruction! I’ve got a 22 Continental GT so looking forward to all of your upcoming vids! Thanks!
@RegulatorG Thanks for the comment. That's awesome, I like the Continental GT. I might get one some day. Yes, most of the things I do on my Interceptor 650 will transfer over directly to the Continental GT. I'll be removing the engine soon for mods. Thanks for watching
Have you purchase fehnders separately 😊
So by simply slipping in an emulator you have improved the fork performance ..... yet you still have the oil flow controlled by the original damper rod holes, which basically means the emulator isnt doing its intended job. It might just about be controlling whatever oil the damper rods allow through thats all and it is not operating as per design. There are plenty of emulator videos out there, but the one by the inventor, Paul at Race Tec is worth a watch and proves my point.
That's not quite correct. At low suspension velocities (when going over smooth or semi-smooth pavement), the emulator will provide much more resistance than the holes in the damping rod so it will work just fine whether the holes are drilled out or not. It's only at the high velocities, when going fast over harsh bumps and when the emulator opens up that the holes can become the limiting factor, making the suspension harsher than ideal. If you experience that harshness then yes, you need to drill. Keep in mind though that if you drill too much, the suspension might start to bottom out on those harsh bumps, which is much more risky. The emulator provides very little damping at very high velocities (when it's fully open), relying on the damping rod holes for damping at those velocities instead.
Was there an improvement in ride quality at any speed and surface with the kit installed?
waiting for the high compression piston installation
@RAHUL Thanks for the comment. I've been waiting on one last thing before I get started on the engine mods. The piston ring compressor. It's been backordered forever but it should be here next week. So, I'll hopefully start the engine mods next week. I'm installing new connecting rods too so the entire engine has to be taken apart. Should be interesting. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Thanks very well thought through video
@Mrityunja Singh Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you like the video. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video sir,I will reference this when it comes to fitting YSS forks to my interceptor when the time comes! Thank you & I have subscribed 👍🏻😎
@John Smith Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you like the video. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching.
Hi. Just wondered what paint you used for your headlight bracket and fork brace? Did you just use a aerosol spray paint (ie. from a can)?
Great, no nonsense, step by step video, just what I needed! Thanks a million :)
Have you found a marked difference after riding it?
I also see you didn't drill the emulators, which I would not be too keen on doing, (if it needs the drill hole, why don't they make it that way?) Was there a reason you didn't do so in your case, and would adding a thinner weight oil achieve the same result if you wanted??
Anyway, great video.
Why would you drill out the Emulators? You mean damper rods.
@Andrew Rymell Thanks for the comment. I haven't ridden the bike yet. I'm gonna ride it tomorrow. Yes, I didn't drill the damper rods because, like you said, it not made that way and the instructions don't say to. I'll put it this way. I have heard people say the upgrade kit, with no drilling, is "night and day" compared to stock. After they did do the drilling there was a noticeable difference in the upgrade kit "but it wasn't night and day". Once you drill you can't go back. Different weight oils will change everything. Changing the air gap/air cushion will have big effects too. I don't care what they say, I won't be drilling these out. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Curious what type of paint you used for those brackets? I think I'll do that when I install this kit. Thx!
Enjoyed your video finishing off the fork upgrade. You made it very easy to follow 👍
@Richard Whittle Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you like the video. Thanks for watching.
Thank you. My YSS kit just arrived, and your tutorial instilled confidence in me.
You have a new follower.
Great video. Is there a big difference if you install the progressive ones by YSS? Thank you
I'm surprised you don't measure the air gap in each forkleg.
@janjansen7556 Thanks for the comment. I do everything by the service manual which gives you the milliliters needed for the front forks. You can use the air gap method but there is nothing in the YSS installation manual that mentions the correct gap. Some people say 140mm and others say 150mm. Also, if you go with the air gap method, I'm pretty sure the springs need to be out and the fork should be fully compressed when measuring the gap. Way easier if you know the recommended oil amount. Just use the measuring cup and poor in. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 hmmm...it is not one or the other: of course you start with recommendef amount of fluid. But next you can measure the airgap to ensure the level is exactly the same in both fork leggs. And the (skimpy) YSS instructions do mention it as the first of the final remarks: "measure oil level from surface of oil until the edge of inner tube"
Cheers, great video!
I see you used RS15? I am wondering if another brand would be equivalent? Also, is the orientation of springs when put back something to watch out for? I plan to do this, but I am considering to only swap out the oil only with preload adjusters and see how it turns out.
@Jay Patel Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure about other brands. Haven't looked into it much. As for the springs, the orientation doesn't matter with this kit. The spacing between the spring windings is the same all the way down. If the spring had tighter windings/smaller gaps on one side, the side with the tighter windings would would go in first. (tighter windings down) Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
How is your feedback? BTW 15 W oil is not to heavy for fork ?
@Igor Leahu I really like the YSS kit. It's a major upgrade from the stock setup. Honestly, the 15w feels a little light with the softer preload settings. If I wold have gone with 10w I don't think I'd like it (too soft for preference). I will probably switch to 20w at next maintenance. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the great videos! Looks like I should have done this myself!
@kerutc Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you like the videos. The YSS kit is super simple to install. I think most people could work on almost every piece of this bike by themselves if they had the right tools. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
You need to drill out the damper rods or this kit makes no difference at higher speed.
Have you ridden an interceptor with yss kit installed at high speed without damper rods being drilled out?
@@marcjohnson7734 No but there is plenty of evidence on TH-cam, If you don't drill out the damper rods then the compression damping is still controlled by them & not the emulators.
@Steve Palmer Sorry man, but I'm gonna call B.S. on your comment. Not everyone is drilling these kits. Yes, a lot of people are but it's not required. It's almost an upgrade on top of an upgrade. A small improvement compared to the kit without drilling, but not much. Maybe you should try it for yourself before telling others what they should, or shouldn't do. So, it works at low speeds but not high speeds? lol You need to think about what you're saying. You're basically saying that YSS is selling a kit that doesn't work (unless) and that's just not true. The YSS instructions mention nothing about drilling. I'm pretty sure they would mention that if it was a necessity. Never do they say, do or don't drill the damper rods. Some people are saying YSS doesn't mention the drilling so people aren't scared off from buying the kit. That's ridiculous. Seriously. I've got an idea. Why don't we ride this thing at high speeds and make a video. I have some old footage of the front forks, before the upgrade kit, we can compare it to.
@@stevepalmer5670 the instructions, Hitchcock’s motorcycles, and Stewart Fillingham disagree See from 14:00 at th-cam.com/video/VCp2e-lAgcI/w-d-xo.html