Always enjoy your videos but I have one question; when installing any window or vent it always gives a better seal if you caulk behind the flange rather caulking "around" the flange once it's installed. I understand the horizontal caulking issue but it would give a much better seal if you caulked the vertical flange before installing and fastening. It would also be more cosmetically attractive w/o a bead of caulk around the vent or window. Just a thought,keep the videos coming.
I 100% agree. We're working on PDF installation instructions for all these components and that will be included. It is best to dry fit the window or vent, remove it, apply sealant to the flange or outside corrugation then install.
I like the poly interior. Does it have colr choices? What was the install time difference between the plywood and poly? Not a ding at all with this as it is somethingva learned just last year. Your guys using grinders cut through the can and then mostly just push the cut. The disks last significantly longer tracing the cut lines over and over until they grind through. As always though y'all produce beautiful projects.
1)Just thinking about a thin foam gasket for you steel stud brakets - similiar to the liner of a tool chest drawer... easy to have stampped out... 2) beautiful drain in the floor, I have not seen a spray foam under the can to protect the frost from getting to the drains ...??? 3) What is the comparrison between your insulation work and that of a refrigerated trailer for produce? 4) I come from Canada, but live in the south... insulation is underestimated in the south, just as important, but to protect from the heat... the can would still heat up, will the foam itself survive the heat? 5) what can protect the thermal bridging around the fan or vent edges? Is there a post install insert, solid foam to help insulate during the cold season?
R6-7 per inch. Hard to compare R Values with fibreglass insulation's theoretical R Values. Spray foam is legit. Actual R Values achieved and no air loss. Easy to heat these things in Canada.
There isn't one on the inside of the container. I'm going to try and develop a method to use batt insulation on the outside of a container with wood framing. Pretty sure I got it figured out. I'll need a year of trial and error to perfect it. Stay tuned.
Now I live here in Central Florida I am little north of Orlando in Eustis which is in Lake County and how would you ever do one if I needed one here in the backside of my property
Yes because you shouldn't be using a level. Measure off the container instead so your walls will be plumb once the container is levelled at its final destination.
@@TheContainerGuyTV alright thanks. I did level the container at its temporary building site. After settling it became a bit un level. But yes I did use measurements on the inside etc. I'll go ahead and order the 40ft bracket package. I'm building it out in Toronto. If need be would you be able to provide some assistance? What email can I contact you on? I can share video of the current stage a design.
What you suggest for gaps between the window and door cutouts? The cuts were not made straight and there are gaps between the framing and container that are to wide to wield?
@@primodinero3006 window gaps and cracks will be filled with spray foam. If you are in Toronto and not planning on spray foaming, the project will be a failure. Can email us at engineering@thecontainerguy.ca
At 16:06 a spray was being applied to the screws in the flooring. What was that and why? So I may see if I need to do that. Thanks. Great video! I'm going to be applying a seal to the original flooring, which is scuffed a bit. Would it hurt to take a sander to the scuffed surfaces before applying the sealant?
The spray is just an spray version of the floor seal, so it can get into all the nooks of the screw and hole around the screw head. Also always hit a surface with a sanding even if just lightly to help adhesion of a new paint layer onto it, especially when a sealer since if the sealer doesn't adhere it can then bubble with movement of the surface and crack, defeating the seal.
Weird. Are you using a used container? Is it dented or bowed? 1 5/8" steel studs are recommended to get the studs away from the container wall. The #1 advantage to steel studs is how straight they are. Using a stiffener bar is needed to keep them in line though during spray foam.
@@TheContainerGuyTV unfortunelty the 1 5/8 was really hard to find in 10ft length in Texas. Being our container is the high cube 8ft wouldn’t be long enough. Our container was a single use no dents or bends. I think issue was the top and bottom don’t seems aligned to begin with where the bottom track mounts it was about 1/8 inch from the inside corrugation.
@@modeverything9949 I just went and checked 2.5" steel studs in a 20' outside because you had me worried. They fit great. Can you send me pictures to engineering@thecontainerguy.ca? Is your top square tubing a 60mm x 60mm square?
What you suggest for gaps between the window and door cutouts? The cuts were not made straight and there are gaps between the framing and container that are to wide to wield?
Not me. I don't live in one and wouldn't.. Although I did build a cabin in 2011. Maybe one day I'll have thrmally broke Steel Stud Brackets and Window/Door Frames and be able to offer kits for containers homes that last hundreds of years. Need more engineers on staff.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I would be interested in that kit down the road when it's established. I really appreciate your videos and the details that are presented. Thank you.
I'm pretty sure it grew out of the tiny house movement, considering you're already "halfway there" with a container. I personally wouldn't live in one either, but I find the technology very interesting!
@@danielstroh4251 use spray foam insulation and make sure it gets around your framing and you'll be fine. Container Modification World framing kits for windows/doors. My reasons are more about resale value. I'm using a couple cans at the lake for a garage/sleeping quarters so I'm not against it.. just maybe not my primary residence with a wife and kids...
They should be available to purchase from www.containermodificationworld.com in the USA. Can always email sales@containermodificationworld.com for help.
Please get rid of the music and do more quick edits to hurry it along. If you don't have audio to explain whatyou are doing then adding music is pointless.
Awesome, dude I see your customers like to grow 😆, excellent engineering
That would be great to grow in plants in 😉
Good details and explanations for decisions on this build. Appreciate you sharing!
Always enjoy your videos but I have one question; when installing any window or vent it always gives a better seal if you caulk behind the flange rather caulking "around" the flange once it's installed. I understand the horizontal caulking issue but it would give a much better seal if you caulked the vertical flange before installing and fastening. It would also be more cosmetically attractive w/o a bead of caulk around the vent or window. Just a thought,keep the videos coming.
I 100% agree. We're working on PDF installation instructions for all these components and that will be included. It is best to dry fit the window or vent, remove it, apply sealant to the flange or outside corrugation then install.
I like the poly interior. Does it have colr choices? What was the install time difference between the plywood and poly?
Not a ding at all with this as it is somethingva learned just last year. Your guys using grinders cut through the can and then mostly just push the cut. The disks last significantly longer tracing the cut lines over and over until they grind through.
As always though y'all produce beautiful projects.
I like the PVC way better than plywood. Smaller pieces mean smaller screw ups. It's the same concept as vinyl siding on a house.
WOOOO HOOOO, got the brackets now I can start my remodel in my office can... wait now I need the Corner Casting items? 🤔
Email parts@thecontainerguy.ca if you need them. We'll get you a set. We'll kit all the components in the next week or so once they're all in stock.
1)Just thinking about a thin foam gasket for you steel stud brakets - similiar to the liner of a tool chest drawer... easy to have stampped out...
2) beautiful drain in the floor, I have not seen a spray foam under the can to protect the frost from getting to the drains ...???
3) What is the comparrison between your insulation work and that of a refrigerated trailer for produce?
4) I come from Canada, but live in the south... insulation is underestimated in the south, just as important, but to protect from the heat... the can would still heat up, will the foam itself survive the heat?
5) what can protect the thermal bridging around the fan or vent edges? Is there a post install insert, solid foam to help insulate during the cold season?
Wow you’ve some a long ways. Looking awesome. Wouldn’t it have been better to put the intakes at the bottom of the wall? To increase air flow.
It would have. I believe the customer is fully utilizing the wall for water treatment piping and electrical components. .
Nice work👌🇦🇺
Is your system strong enough for two containers stacking on top of each other?
would love to be able to buy the flanges to do the big door for spray foam here in the us
What is a cost of a shipping container bedrooms and a pool
What's the R factor of the ceiling and wall foam insulation?
R6-7 per inch. Hard to compare R Values with fibreglass insulation's theoretical R Values. Spray foam is legit. Actual R Values achieved and no air loss. Easy to heat these things in Canada.
@@TheContainerGuyTVThank you very informative videos... I have the opposite need; keeping heat out to keep it cool in Florida.
DIY? Although I am an equipped and skilled DIYer, spray foam is not available. What is your alternative for insulation? Thanks.
There isn't one on the inside of the container. I'm going to try and develop a method to use batt insulation on the outside of a container with wood framing. Pretty sure I got it figured out. I'll need a year of trial and error to perfect it. Stay tuned.
Now I live here in Central Florida I am little north of Orlando in Eustis which is in Lake County and how would you ever do one if I needed one here in the backside of my property
Florida is a humid environment. I would build it exactly as we do in Canada or the Arctic with spray foam and steel studs. Avoid porous material.
Can i ask why you are choosing to use 2.5" on the ceiling? Won't that lower the ceiling height?
What have you got against "thinking" ?
When using your steele stud brackets package, will it also help when installing framing in slightly unlevel containers?
Yes because you shouldn't be using a level. Measure off the container instead so your walls will be plumb once the container is levelled at its final destination.
@@TheContainerGuyTV alright thanks. I did level the container at its temporary building site. After settling it became a bit un level. But yes I did use measurements on the inside etc.
I'll go ahead and order the 40ft bracket package.
I'm building it out in Toronto. If need be would you be able to provide some assistance? What email can I contact you on? I can share video of the current stage a design.
What you suggest for gaps between the window and door cutouts? The cuts were not made straight and there are gaps between the framing and container that are to wide to wield?
@@primodinero3006 window gaps and cracks will be filled with spray foam. If you are in Toronto and not planning on spray foaming, the project will be a failure.
Can email us at engineering@thecontainerguy.ca
@@TheContainerGuyTV 100% we are using spray foam. Alright thanks!
At 16:06 a spray was being applied to the screws in the flooring. What was that and why? So I may see if I need to do that. Thanks. Great video! I'm going to be applying a seal to the original flooring, which is scuffed a bit. Would it hurt to take a sander to the scuffed surfaces before applying the sealant?
The spray is just an spray version of the floor seal, so it can get into all the nooks of the screw and hole around the screw head. Also always hit a surface with a sanding even if just lightly to help adhesion of a new paint layer onto it, especially when a sealer since if the sealer doesn't adhere it can then bubble with movement of the surface and crack, defeating the seal.
Do you sell the PVC sheets? I don't see them on your website?
These things made my walls uneven with 2.5 steels studs. Had to cut a bunch of flat bar to use as a spacer behind them to make wall straight.
Weird. Are you using a used container? Is it dented or bowed?
1 5/8" steel studs are recommended to get the studs away from the container wall.
The #1 advantage to steel studs is how straight they are. Using a stiffener bar is needed to keep them in line though during spray foam.
@@TheContainerGuyTV unfortunelty the 1 5/8 was really hard to find in 10ft length in Texas. Being our container is the high cube 8ft wouldn’t be long enough. Our container was a single use no dents or bends. I think issue was the top and bottom don’t seems aligned to begin with where the bottom track mounts it was about 1/8 inch from the inside corrugation.
@@modeverything9949 I just went and checked 2.5" steel studs in a 20' outside because you had me worried. They fit great. Can you send me pictures to engineering@thecontainerguy.ca? Is your top square tubing a 60mm x 60mm square?
@@TheContainerGuyTV sent
How much the container weights with everything you put on
What you suggest for gaps between the window and door cutouts? The cuts were not made straight and there are gaps between the framing and container that are to wide to wield?
Their window and door kits remove any guessing, as you cut them exactly to fit those frames. No welding needed since they rivet into place
Is this product available in uk
E-mail sales@containermodificationworld.com for a UK shipping estimate. It's a light box and reasonable to ship.
where are you located
Where do I find the extra steel door?
Please email parts@thecontainerguy.ca to order the door
Now your a 18 wheeler shy of a motorhome.🙄🙂😁🚚
Nice job......here is my question? Who was the first to suggest containers as "homes:
Not me. I don't live in one and wouldn't.. Although I did build a cabin in 2011.
Maybe one day I'll have thrmally broke Steel Stud Brackets and Window/Door Frames and be able to offer kits for containers homes that last hundreds of years. Need more engineers on staff.
@@TheContainerGuyTV I would be interested in that kit down the road when it's established. I really appreciate your videos and the details that are presented. Thank you.
I'm pretty sure it grew out of the tiny house movement, considering you're already "halfway there" with a container. I personally wouldn't live in one either, but I find the technology very interesting!
@@TheContainerGuyTV Are you being sarcastic? I just bought 2 40's to add on 2 bedrooms to my house. This comment makes me nervous
@@danielstroh4251 use spray foam insulation and make sure it gets around your framing and you'll be fine. Container Modification World framing kits for windows/doors. My reasons are more about resale value. I'm using a couple cans at the lake for a garage/sleeping quarters so I'm not against it.. just maybe not my primary residence with a wife and kids...
What is customer using this for?
They do water & automation so I imagine some sort of remote water treatment shack.
Are these brackets and framing product only available in Canada?
They should be available to purchase from www.containermodificationworld.com in the USA. Can always email sales@containermodificationworld.com for help.
@@TheContainerGuyTV Thanks!!
Please get rid of the music and do more quick edits to hurry it along. If you don't have audio to explain whatyou are doing then adding music is pointless.
Cutting thru the frame instantly made it not shipping worthy